Awadhi Cuisine

AWADHI CUISINE

1SUNIL KUMAR

DESINGED BY

Sunil KumarResearch Scholar/ Food Production FacultyInstitute of Hotel and Tourism Management,MAHARSHI DAYANAND UNIVERSITY, ROHTAKHaryana- 124001 INDIA Ph. No. 09996000499email:  skihm86@yahoo.com , balhara86@gmail.com  linkedin:- in.linkedin.com/in/ihmsunilkumarfacebook: www.facebook.com/ihmsunilkumar webpage: chefsunilkumar.tripod.com 

HISTORY THE VERY MENTION OF LUCKNOW,

WHICH WAS THE SEAT OF AWADH CULTURE, BRINGS TO MIND THE

TRADITION OF ‘PEHLE AAP’ (AFTER YOU), THE LANGUAGE DRIPPING

WITH POLITENESS AND THE LIFESTYLE OF THE NAWABS. BUT WHAT APPEALS THE MOST IS THE

CUISINE OF AWADH, WHICH IN SOME WAYS , WAS A CULMINATION

OF ALL THAT WAS BEST IN ART, CULTURE AND SCIENCE.

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THE ERSTWHILE PROVINCE OF AWADH WAS FAMOUS FOR ITS STANDARDS OF

GASTRONOMIC ETIQUETTE. THIS CULTURE IS STILL FOUND PRESERVED IN

THE SANCTORUM OF THE ERSTWHILE LANDED ARISTOCRACY OF LUCKNOW

AND A FEW ADJOINING DISTRICTS, THAT FORMED PART OF AWADH ; AND OF COURSE THE FAMOUS ’BAWARCHIS’

WHO, WITH TREMENDOUS DISCIPLINE, BORDERING ON RELIGIOUS FERVOR,

STILL FOLLOW THE TRADITIONAL STYLE OF COOKING HANDED DOWN TO THEM BY

THEIR ANCESTORS.

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TRADITIONS AND CUSTOMS

TEHZEEB-O-ADAB: ETIQUETTES

THE COLLECTIVE NAME FOR FOODS SELECTED FOR FEASTS AT HOME OR SENT OUT IS TORA. IT CONSISTS OF

PULAU, MUZAFAR, MUTANJAN, SHIRMAL, SAFAIDA, SHIR BRANJ, SHAMI KEBABS ALONG WITH MURRABBA, ACHAR, AND

CHUTNEYS.

DASTARKHAWN

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RAMZAN: THIS IS THE MONTH THAT THE MUSLIMS FAST; NOT EVEN WATER IS DRUNK DURING THE DAY. EARLY MORNING FOOD IS EATEN AND THEN IN THE

EVENING THE FAST IS BROKEN. ( SAHERI AND

IFTARI)5SUNIL KUMAR

FATIAH: THIS IS THE SERVICE DONE AFTER A PERSONS DEATH

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THE HINDU INFLUENCE

HALWAIS THE STANDARDS OF THE MUSLIM CHEFS ARE HIGHER, AND THE HINDU HALWAIS

PLAY AN IMPORTANT PART WHEN THE DESSERTS HAVE TO BE PREPARED FOR THE MASSES

HINDU CONFECTIONERS ARE ON THE WHOLE MUCH BETTER AND MORE POPULAR THAN MUSLIMS, AND THE PEOPLE WHO REALLY APPRECIATE SWEETS ARE THE HINDUS.

POSSIBLY BECAUSE MUSLIMS ARE MEAT-EATERS, THEY PREFER FOOD CONTAINING SALT. HINDUS ON THE OTHER HAND PREFER A SWEET

TASTE.

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SEASONAL CHANGES EFFECTING FOOD

SPRING: A SEASON OF REJUVENATION, OF EXULTATION AND FESTIVITY; A GARB OF

YELLOW AT VASANT; ZARDA PULAO IS EATEN DURING THIS PERIOD,

SUMMERS: COOLANTS SUCH AS AAM KA PANNA, SHIKANJVI AND LASSI ARE HAD AS A

PART OF A DAILY MEAL. FRUITS SUCH AS MANGO, MELONS, WATER MELONS ARE

ALSO CONSUMED IN GREAT QUANTITIES. CHUTNEYS, MURRABBAS AND ACHARS ARE

MADE IN GREAT QUANTITIES. LOTS OF RAITAS ARE ALSO HAD

WINTERS: FOOD THAT HAS A WARM “ TASEER” ARE HAD IN THE WINTERS

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IN WINTERS THE WOMEN FOLK SIT IN THE CENTRAL COURTYARD OF THE HOUSE, GOSSIP AND MAKE PICKLE WINTER VEGETABLES IN

GREAT QUANTITIES.

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OUR AIM IN THIS GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY IS TO

INTRODUCE THE CHARACTERISTIC TASTES AND

FLAVORS OF THIS REGION WITH THE HOPE THAT THE AUTHENTIC DISHES FROM

AWADH WILL BE RE-CREATED IN THE KITCHEN .

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THE STORY OF AWADH CUISINE WOULD NOT BE

COMPLETE IF THE VARIOUS SYSTEMS AND METHODS OF

COOKING WERE NOT DESCRIBED.

SOME OF THEM UNIQUE TO AWADH REGION.

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METHODS OF COOKING

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BAGHAR

THIS IS A METHOD OF TEMPERING A DISH WITH HOT OIL/GHEE AND SPICES. IT MAY BE DONE EITHER AT THE BEGINNING OF COOKING OF A DISH, AS IN CURRIES, OR

AT THE END AS IN THE COOKING OF DALS. IN THE FORMER CASE THE FAT IS

HEATED IN A VESSEL TO A SMOKING POINT AND AFTER REDUCING THE

FLAME, SPICES ARE ADDED TO IT. WHEN THEY BEGIN TO CRACKLE, THE RAW

INGREDIENTS ARE ADDED AND FURTHER COOKED. IN THE LATTER CASE THE

SAME PROCESS IS CARRIED OUT IN A LADLE WHICH IS IMMERSED IN A COOKED DISH AND IMMEDIATELY

COVERED WITH A LID, 13SUNIL KUMAR

DHUNGER

THIS IS A QUICK SMOKE PROCEDURE USED TO FLAVOR A MEAT DISH,

DALS OR EVEN RAITA. THE SMOKE VERY EFFECTIVELY PERMEATES

EVERY GRAIN OF THE INGREDIENT AND IMPARTS A SUBTLE AROMA

WHICH ENHANCES THE QUALITY OF THE DISH.THE PROCEDURE MAY BE

CARRIED OUT EITHER AT THE INTERMEDIATE STAGE OR AT THE

FINAL STAGE OF COOKING . THIS IS A COMMON TECHNIQUE EMPLOYED

WHILE MAKING KEBABS.

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DUM DENATHIS IS THE FREQUENTLY USED

METHOD USED IN AWADH COOKING. ‘DUM’ LITERALLY MEANS ‘BREATH’ AND THE PROCESS INVOLVES PLACING THE SEMI-COOKED INGREDIENTS IN A POT, SEALING THE UTENSIL WITH A FLOUR DOUGH AND APPLYING VERY SLOW

CHARCOAL FIRE ON TOP,BY PLACING LIVE CHARCOAL ON THE LID, AND SOME

FROM BELOW.. THIS METHOD IS FOLLOWED FOR A NUMBER OF

DELICACIES SUCH AS PULAO AND BIRYANI. ANY DISH COOKED BY THIS METHOD IS ‘DUM PUKHT’ OR ‘DUM

BAKHT’. 15SUNIL KUMAR

GALAVAT

THIS REFERS TO THE USE OF SOFTENING AGENTS SUCH AS PAPAIN (FROM RAW PAPAYA) OR KALMI

SHORA (KNO3) TO TENDERISE MEAT.

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GHEE DURUST KARNATHIS IS A VITAL STEP IN COOKING ALMOST ANY AWADHI DISH. IT IS ESSENTIALLY THE

TEMPERING OR SEASONING OF THE COOKING MEDIUM. THIS IS IMPORTANT TO REMOVE THE RAW FLAVOR OF THE GHEE

OR OIL AND FLAVOR IT WITH KEVRA, CARDAMOMS. THE METHOD IS AS

FOLLOWS :

HEAT 500GM OF GHEE OR OIL TO A SMOKING POINT THEN REDUCE THE HEAT

AND SPRINKLE 1 TBSP KEWRA-WATER AND ADD 6 GREEN CARDAMOMS AND STIR

TILL THE WATER EVAPORATES AND THE GHEE GIVES A PLEASANT AROMA. REMOVE FROM THE FIRE, STRAIN

THROUGH A MUSLIN CLOTH AND KEEP FOR FURTHER USE.

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LOAB

IS A TERM WHICH REFERS TO THE FINAL STAGE IN COOKING WHEN THE OIL USED DURING

COOKING RISES TO THE SURFACE, GIVING THE DISH A FINISHED APPEARANCE. THIS

OCCURS WHEN SLOW COOKING OF GRAVY DISHES IS INVOLVED.

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MOIN

IT IS THE SHORTENING OF DOUGH. IN THIS PROCESS FAT IS RUBBED INTO THE FLOUR AND MADE INTO A

DOUGH FOR KACHORIS OR POORIS OR PARATHAS. THIS MAKES THE FINAL PRODUCT

CRISP AND FLAKY AND CRUMBLY.

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TASEER: THIS IS THE EFFECT OF FOOD ON THE

HUMAN BODY UPON CONSUMPTION. THE FOODS CAN THEREFORE BE CLASSIFIED AS HAVING A GARAM TASEER (WARMING EFFECT) OR A THANDI TASEER( COOLING

EFFECT)

MOST FOODS HAVING A GARAM TASEER ARE CONSIDERED APRODISIAC IN

NATURE AND ARE MAINLY CONSUMED IN WINTERS.

FOODS THAT COOL THE BODY , OR HAVE A THANDI TASEER ARE MAINLY

CONSUMED IN SUMMERS.20SUNIL KUMAR

METHOD OF PREPARING LIQUID REFRESHMENT(ABDAR KHANA, ) . RED CLOTH, WHICH WAS KEPT DAMP,WAS TIED ROUND THE PITCHER OR DRINKING VESSEL IN ORDER TO COOL IT BY THE WIND. THE HOTTER THE WIND, THE COLDER IT MADE THE CLOTH, WHICH IN TURN REDUCED THE TEMPERATURE OF THE WATER INSIDE THE RECEPTACLES. OFTEN CLOTH WAS TIED ON THE MOUTHS OF GOBLETS, PICTURES AND EVEN JARS WHICH WERE THEN HUNG UPSIDE DOWN FROM THE BRANCHES OF TREES AS THEY WERE COMPLETELY SEALED THE WATER DID NOT SPILL OUT AND THEY BECAME BEAUTIFULLY COLD. IN THE RAINY SEASON, EARTHENWARE JARS WERE HUNG INSIDE A HALL.

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JHALNA

PITCHER PULLING.

AN ELABORATE PRACTICE WAS TO IMMERSE SMALL PICTURES IN A LARGE EARTHENWARE VESSEL FILLED WITH BRACKISH WATER

AND THEN SPIN THEM ROUND AND ROUND. IN A SHORT TIME THE

WATER IN THE PITCHERS BECAME AS COLD AS ICE

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INGREDIENTSALLSPICE ( KEBAB CHINI): USED WHOLE OR

GROUND. BERRIES SMELL LIKE THE BLEND OF CINNAMMON, CLOVES AND NUTMEG.

ANISE( SAUNF): LIQUORICE -LIKE FLAVOR, USED IN VEGETABLES, BREADS AND DESSERTS

ASAFOETIDA( HING): RESINOUS GUM OF A TREE, USED IN BAGHARS

BAY LEAF( TEJ PATTA): USED IN BAGHARS AND CURRIES

BLACK PEPPERCORNS( KALI MIRCH): USED IN MEAT, SOME FISH AND VEGETABLE DISHES, USED WHOLE OR GROUND AND UPLIFTS THE

SIMPLEST OF DISHES

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CARAWAY SEEDS( KALA OR SHAHI JEERA): SUBTLE FLAVOUR, USED IN MEAT AND RICE DISHES

CARDAMOM: 2 VARIETIES

GREEN CARDAMOM( HARI ELAICHI) : HAS A COOL SCENTED FLAVOUR, USED IN CURRIES AS WELL ASDESSERTS

BROWN CARDAMOM( BARI ELAICHI); USED WITH SAVOURY FOODS 24SUNIL KUMAR

CHILLIES

GREEN CHILLIES: ADD A SPICY FLAVOUR

RED CHILLIES: HOTTEST

YELLOW CHILLIES: THE GROUND SEEDS OF THE DRIED RED CHILLIES

CINNAMON( DALCHINI): GENTLE, SWEET, MUSKY FLAVOUR; USED IN BOTH SWEET AND SAVOURY PREPARATIONS

CLOVES(LAUNG): HARD, DRIED, POWERFUL AROMA AND SWEET TANGY FLAVOUR; USED IN FISH MEAT, VEGETABLE OR PULSES; ALSO USED TO GIVE DHUNGAR

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CORIANDER LEAVES( DHANIA PATTA): USED FOR GARNISHING OR TO MAKE

CHUTNEYS

CORIANDER SEEDS( DHANIA): MILD, SWEET, PUNGENT FLAVOUR; USED FOR THE AROMA; POWDER GIVES THE DISH

MORE FLAVOUR AND BODY

CUMIN( JEERA); STRONG FLAVOUR AND AROMA; USED IN BAGHARS; CAN BE USED

RAW, DRY-ROASTED, WHOLE OR POWDERED

FENUGREEK: METHI DANA

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UTENSILS AND EQUIPMENT USED

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BHAGONA OR PATILI

IS GENERALLY A BRASS ONE. IT COMES WITH A LID. IT IS USED WHEN GREAT

DEAL OF ‘BHUN-NA’ OR SAUTE IS REQUIRED, OR EVEN BOILING AND

SIMMERING. ITIS ALSO REQUIRED FOR YAKHNI OR SALAN, KORMA OR KALIYA.

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DEG/ DEGCHI

IT IS A PEAR SHAPED POT WITH A LID MADE OF BRASS, COPPER OR ALUMINIUM. THE SHAPE OF THIS UTENSIL IS IDEALLY SUITED FOR THE ‘DUM’ METHOD. IT IS USED FOR COOKING PULAO, BIRYANI, NEHARI ETC.

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KADHAI

IT IS A DEEP, CONCAVE UTENSIL MADE OF BRASS, IRON OR ALUMINIUM AND IS USED FOR DEEP FRYING.

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LAGAN

IT IS A ROUND AND SHALLOW COPPER

UTENSIL WITH A SLIGHTLY

CONCAVE BOTTOM. USED FOR

COOKING WHOLE OR BIG CUTS OF

MEAT OR POULTRY ESPECIALLY WHEN HEAT IS APPLIED FROM BOTH TOP

AND BOTTOM.

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IT IS AN IRON TANDOOR, AS DITINCT FROM THE CLAY TANDOOR MORE COMMON IN DELHI. IT IS A KIND OF DOME-SHAPED IRON OVEN USED FOR MAKING MOST OF THE BREADS SUCH AS THE SHEERMAL, TAFTAN, BAKARKHANI ETC.

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LOHE KA TANDOOR

MAHI TAWA

IT IS THE AWADH VERSION OF THE GRIDDLE SHAPED LIKE ABIG ROUND, FLAT BOTTOMED TRAY WITH RAISED EDGES, IT IS USED FOR COOKING KABABS. ALSO USED FOR DISHES WHERE HEAT IS APPLIED FROM BOTH ENDS, WHEN COVERED.

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SEENI

IT IS A BIG THALI OR ROUND TRAY USUALLY USED AS A LID FOR THE LAGAN OR MAHI TAWA WHEN HEAT IS TO BE APPLIED FROM THE TOP. LIVE CHARCOAL IS PLACED ON IT AND HEAT IS TRANSMITTED THROUGH IT TO THE FOOD. THUS THE INDIRECT HEAT HAS THE DESIRED EFFECT OF BROWNING AND COOKING THE INGREDIENTS.

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SURAHI (EARTHENWARE PITCHERS),ABKHORAS (EARTHENWARE DRINKING VESSELS)

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ALL THE COPPER AND BRASS UTENSILS ARE ALMOST ALWAYS USED AFTER ‘KALAI’ OR TIN-PLATING THE INSIDES.

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DELICACIES

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KEBABS

GALAVAT KE KABABGOLA KABAB (GRILLED MINCED MEAT BALL KABAB)

SHAMI KABABKAKORI KEBABS

GULNAAR KEBABS: KEBAB OF CHICKEN FLAVOURED WITH TOMATOES AND SPICES, GARNISHED WITH ROSE PETALS: COOKED IN A SHALLOW PAN

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NON- VEGETARIAN DELIGHTS

NAHARI

MURG WAJID ALI -SAFFRON FLAVOURED CHICKEN BREASTS DONE IN RICH ALMOND BASED GRAVY.

MURG MUSSALLAMKUNDAN KALIYANARGISI KOFTA

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MURG KORMAPISTEY KA SAALAN

MURG-DO-PYAZA

ZAMIN DOZ: WHOLE FISH STUFFED WITH SPICES, SEALED IN AN EARTHENWARE CASE, BURIED IN THE GROUND AND COOKED BY PLACING COW DUNG CAKES ON THE GROUND ABOVE.

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VEGETARIAN DELIGHTS

GOBHI MUSSALLAMDHINGRI SHABNAM

MASALEDAAR BHARWAAN BHINDEE

NIMONA: STRICTLY HOME FARE

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PULAOS AND BIRYANIS

SHAH JAHANI PULAO

DEGI BIRYANI DURING THE DAYS OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY, WHEN THE NAWABS OF AWADH TOURED THEIR KINGDOMS, DEGI BIRYANI FOUND MUCH FAVOUR WITH THEM. IT IS HIGHLY NUTRITIOUS AND IS MADE FROM MARINATED LAMB CHOPS AND RICE WITH SUBTLE BLENDING OF CURD AND SPICES, DECORATED WITH SILVER LEAVES.

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LUCKNOWI BIRYANI: DUM PUKHT METHOD OF COOKING IS USED IN THE PREPARATION OF THIS LAMB AND RICE PREPARARTIONYAKHNI PULAO

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BREADS

• NAANS

• VARQI PARANTHA

• JALEBI PARANTHA

• GILAFI KULCHA

• SHEERMAL• TAFTAN• ROOMALI ROTI• BAKHARKHANI

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DESSERTS• LAUKI KI KHEER• CHAWAL KI KHEER• FIRNIV• SHAHI TUKRE

• SHEER BRANJ• BALAI KE TUKDE• SHAKRAMBA: SOOJI AND RAW

MANGO KHEER• MUTANJAN A SPICED

MEAT, SUGAR AND RICE PREPARATION

• SAFAIDA, A SIMPLE, SWEET RICE DISH

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JALEBIS(ZALEBIA IN ARABIC), SWEETS FORMED IN A SPIRAL, GLAZED WITH A SYRUPIMERTIS, THICK SWEETS WITH SYRUPBALU SHAHIS, MOIST, ROUND SYRUPY SWEETS PERATAR HALWA, A SWEET MADE WITH CLARIFIED BUTTER, AND EATEN WITH PURIS, IS PURELY HINDU

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• HALWA SOHAN, • PAPRI, HARD AND DRY• MALAI PAAN,• DUDHIA, LIKE A THICK

MILK JELLY• BARFI, DRY, WHITE AND

SOFT SHOWS THAT IT ORIGINATED IN PERSIA

• KHURME, HARD FOLDED PANCAKES

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• GULAB JAMUN, SOFT, SYRUPY CROQUETTES

• JAUZI HALWA WHOLE WHEAT HALWA

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OUR TRIP TO LUCKNOW

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The famous imaam bara

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An assorted bread platter

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