ABC of kitchen gardening in Pakistan By Allah Dad Khan

ABC of Kitchen Gardening

By Allah Dad Khan

Kitchen Garden

1. Vegetables occupy an important place in our daily life particularly for vegetarians. Vegetables are the only source to increase not only the nutritive values of foods but also its palatability.

2. For a balanced diet, an adult should have an intake of 85 g of fruits and 300 g of vegetables per day as per the dietary recommendation of nutrition specialists.

3. But the present level of production of vegetables in our country can permit a per capita consumption of only 120 g of vegetables per day.

Kitchen Gardening

1. A kitchen garden is where herbs and vegetables are grown around the house for household use.

2. Since early times a small plot near to the house has been used for growing a variety of vegetables according to the season.

3. Local varieties such as radish, broad leaf mustard, chilli, beans, pumpkins etc. are all grown in the kitchen garden.

Why Kitchen Gardening ?

1. For people to stay healthy it's very important to have a healthy diet.

2. A healthy diet means a balanced mix of rice, bread, pulses, vegetables, herbs, fruit etc.

3. Vegetables are a very important part of a good diet as they contain various nutrients for many body functions.

4. For growing, energy and protection against disease, vegetables play an essential role.

5. Vegetables are especially important for the young, and for pregnant and nursing women.

Benefits of Kitchen Gardening

1. to grow healthy, fresh vegetables yourself;2. to save the cost of buying vegetables and

herbs; 3. waste resources such as sweepings, kitchen

scraps and dirty water can be recycled onto the garden;

4. wasteland around the house can be made productive.

How to make a Kitchen Garden

Because there's often no tradition of kitchen gardens, many people can't grow the vegetables they need for a good diet. Or they spend lots of money on vegetables, or their health suffers from lack of vegetables. It may be that you haven't been able to make a kitchen garden. There are several reasons why it may be difficult to make a kitchen garden, or if you have made one, it is not successful.

For example: a) pests, diseases or livestock have destroyed the crop; b) no good seed or seedlings;c) lack of space; d) lack of water; e) lack of fertility; f) no spare time; g) lack of the right skills.

These vegetables have wilted because of lack of water In this chapter easy methods are described to solve these sorts of problems, and so help the family to be able to grow good produce from their kitchen garden

Prerequisite for Kitchen Gardening

• To make and manage a kitchen garden easily, and to give best production, the following things are important :- Good management of the garden needs knowledge of all these. Then we can make our kitchen garden more successful

1 .Site Selection and preparation 2. Variety Selection 3. Planting 4. Management of Kitchen Gardening 5.Harvesting

1. Site Selection & Preparation

1. Day length /Light hours

2. Soil and soil preparation

3. Variety Selection 4. ccesAs5. Air Drainage6. Proximity to Trees &

Shrubs

1. Day Length/ light 1. Increasing or decreasing day length affects

1. Flower initiation2. Bulbing & tuber development

2. Short day plants:1. Sweet potato

3. Long day plants flower when light exceeds a certain number of hours.1. Lettuce2. Spinach3. Radish

4. Day neutral plants – flowering not related to light1. Cucumber2. Peas3. Beans4. Peppers

2. Soil and soil preparation • Well-drained. Solutions

for clay soils:– Add organic matter– Raised beds

• Work soils down to 6-7 inches.

• Remove large stones, clods, or plant debris. Particularly important with root crops.

2.1Soil test

– Done the fall before planting and every 3 years thereafter.

– Sample 6-7 inches deep in 5 areas of the garden.• pH – 6.0-6.8• Phosphorus• Potassium• Organic matter

2.2. Soil Temperature

“seed of warm-season crops planted in cold soil.Soil temp should be >60°F

HPlant corn when oak leaves are the size of squirrel’s ears”.

Rotting eat-induced dormancy for fall crops.

2.3. Access

• Near the house.– Easy to get to when harvesting.– Accessible for weeding, cultivating, & staking

plants.• Close to water.• May deter vermin.

2.4 .Air Drainage• Low-lying areas are subject to

unseasonable frosts & water-logged soils.• South-facing slopes warm more quickly.• Wind protection is desirable in rural

gardens.– Prevents physical damage to plants.– Reduces water loss.– Preserves heat that may be lost through

transpiration.

2.5. Proximity to Trees & Shrubs

• Unwanted shade.• Competition for water and nutrients.• Juglone toxicity.• Site the garden at least 10 feet from any tree

or shrub.

3. Variety Selection• Size of Mature Plant• Days to Harvest• Heirlooms• Disease Resistance• Saving Seed

Variety Selection:Days to Harvest

• Southern WI has 120-180 frost-free days.

• Northern WI has 90-120 frost-free days.

• Pay particular attention to long-season crops – pumpkins or corn.

• Planting date for fall crops should be counted backward from the average date of 1st frost. Additional days should be added because of cool nights and shorter days.

Variety Selection:Heirlooms

• Old-fashioned varieties.• Selected for their flavor.• No disease resistance, not uniform in

appearance, and don’t store well.• Seed Savers Exchange– http://www.seedsavers.org/Home.asp

Variety Selection:Disease Resistance

• Select resistant varieties if practical.• No one variety is resistant to all diseases of

that vegetable.• Seed catalogs will indicate what varieties are

resistant.

Variety Selection:Saving Seed

• Some diseases are carried on or in the seed.• Don’t save seed from cross-pollinated plants –

vine crops in particular.• Self-pollinated crops include

• Beans• Eggplant• Peas• Pepper• Tomato

4. Planting

• Timing• Direct Seeding• Transplants• Starting Seeds• Spacing & Thinning• Sequential Planting• Crop Rotation

Timing• Soil temperature– Cool-season crops = 40°– Warm-season crops = 50-60°

• Avoidance of pest problems – Onions – onion maggot– Cole crops – cabbage maggot, flea beetles– Seed corn maggots

Direct Seeding• Plant seed as deep as

the seed is wide.• Seed packets will tell you

how far to space the seed.

• Keep seed moist until plants germinate.

• Lettuce seed requires light to germinate.

Transplants• Some vegetables must

be started indoors because they require a long season.

• Transplants can be started indoors several weeks before they are moved outside.

• Vegetables include– Onions & leeks– Tomatoes, peppers,

eggplant– Cole crops

Starting Seeds• Plant at the appropriate

time so plants don’t get too leggy.

• Containers can be plastic pots, soil blocks, peat pots, home-made newspaper pots, Jiffy-7.

• Plastic containers previously used should be sterilized in a 10% bleach solution.

Starting Seeds:Heat & Light Requirements

• Bottom heat will speed up germination.– Electric heating mat.– Radiator– Remove once seeds sprout.

• Supplemental light from fluorescent lights is necessary. – 18 hours is optimum– Place lights 6 inches from top of plant

• Can place in sunny window but turn regularly to prevent lopsided growth.

Hardening Off• Decrease watering &

stop fertilizing 2 weeks before transplanting.

• Lower temperature before transplanting.

• Harden off to acclimate to– Wind– Intense light– Fluctuating

temperatures

Transplanting• Transplant on cloudy

days to minimize sun scald.

• Water well after transplanting.

• Plant at the same depth as in the pot.– Exception, tomatoes

Spacing & Thinning

• Space seeds as recommended on the packet.– Dense planting will

promote disease.

• Small-seeded crops will need thinning:– Carrots– Radishes– Beets– Lettuce

Succession Planting• Necessary to provide an

extended season of crop availability.

• Look at days to harvest.• Three types:

– Planting late-season crops after early season ones have been harvested – peas followed by beans.

– Multiple plantings of a single crop.

– Planting different cultivars with different maturity dates – cabbage & corn.

Rabi Kh off seson Veg

Crop Rotation

• Potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant are all members of the solanaceous family.

• Beans and peas are legumes.• Cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and squash are all

cucurbits.• Radishes, rutabagas, and turnips are all cole crops

just like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts.

• Onions, garlic, leeks, shallots, chives are alliums.• Crop rotations of at least 4 years are recommended.

Why Rotate Crops?

• Insect & disease management • Weed management• Nutrient demands– Increased soil nitrogen

• Benefits of the preceding crops – Improved physical condition of the soil– Increased microbial activity– Increased release of CO2

– Excretion of beneficial substances

1.1 Decide where to put your garden: Vegetables need

• 6-8 hours of sun each day• A reliable source of irrigation• Vegetables need soil tilled about

18 inches deep• The garden should be easy and

inviting to get to• Allow space for paths between

planting areas• Plan to reach the beds from both

sides

1.2 How big should it be?

• Should fit where the conditions are best

• Should not be so big and so much work you get discouraged

• You can always add on !• Should allow you to grow what

you want to grow and use!

1.3 Build raised beds

• Soil in raise beds is warmer in the winter

• Can be built to meet needs of challenged gardeners or challenged sites

• Remember, you should be able to reach the middle from both sides

• Use materials that fit your landscape and budget

1.4 . Preparing the soil• Lay out planting beds• Till and rake soil –

removing rocks and junk

• Add compost aim for ½ native soil ½ compost

• Add balanced fertilizer according to directions

• Till the bed again and rake it level

• Install irrigation

1.4 SELECTING YOUR CROPS: Choose crops that will grow for each of our seasons. We

have 3!

• Refer to AZ 1005 for planting dates ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf

• Or urbanfarm.org/Planting_Calendar.pdf• Fit the crops to the garden• Plant things you like to eat! • Rotate your crops

1.5 SOURCES OF SEEDS AND PLANTS

• Local independent nurseries• Seed catalogues and internet

sites• Friends• Plant sales, garden clubs• Big box retailers

1.6 .Shall I buy transplants or start seeds on my own?

• Transplants–No guesswork– you jump start

the garden–Give you a head start on plants

that require a longer season than we have to produce:–Limited to what you can find–Not all things should be

transplanted-so you may do both!

1.7 Plant these vegetables directly into the garden.

• Plants that grow from tubers, crowns, or cloves –Potatoes, asparagus, garlic

• Plants that grow from big seeds–Peas, beans, corn, squash,

melons, cucumbers, pumpkin• Root crops:–Beets, carrots, parsnips,

radishes, turnips

1.8 Some vegetables need a head start. Buy transplants or start your own 8 weeks ahead of planting time

• Spring planted, long season crops: –Peppers,–Eggplants,–Tomatoes, –Sweet

potatoes

5. Maintaining your garden

• Irrigating • Fertilizing• Mulching• Weeding• Pest control• Weather protections

Individual Kitchen Gardens:

• Individual kitchen gardens can be grown in the small space available in • the backyard. The individual kitchen gardens • 1. Would provide for direct access to a diversity of nutritionally rich • foods, • 2. Increases purchasing power from savings on food bills and • income if the garden products are sold. • A packet containing seeds of desired varieties can be provided to the • women interested to have kitchen garden, at an affordable price. • These seeds can be procured in bulk from a nursery or horticulture • department at reasonable rates and distributed to the interested • women through VO/MMS • Here the family members directly consume the benefits. • Guidance on maintenance of the gardens by using simple household • techniques should be provided to the members

• Seeds of transplanted crops like tomato, brinjal and chilli can be sown in nursery beds or pots one month in advance by drawing lines. After sowing and covering with top soil and then dusting with 250 grams neem cake so as to save the seeds from ants. About 30 days after sowing for tomato and 40-45 days for brinjal and chilli and big onion the seedlings are removed from nursery and transplanted along one side of the ridges at spacing of 30-45 cm for tomato, brinjal and chilli and 10 cm on both the sides of the ridges for big onion. The plants should be irrigated immediately after planting and again on 3rd day. The seedlings can be watered once in two days in the earlier stages and then once in 4 days later.

• he main objective of a kitchen garden is the maximum output and a continuous supply of vegetables for the table throughout the year. By following certain procedures, this objective can easily be achieved.

• Ø The perennial plants should be located on one side of the garden, usually on the rear end of the garden so that they may not shade other crops, compete for nutrition with the other vegetable crops.

• Ø The adjacent to the foot path all around the garden and the central foot path may be utilised for growing different short duration green vegetables like Coriander, spinach, fenugreek, Alternanthera, Mint

• Economic benefits of gardening• Ø Gardeners feed their families first and then sell, barter or give away surplus

garden foods. In certain contexts, however, income generation may become the primary objective of the home garden. In any case, it is counterproductive to impose the nutrition objective to the exclusion of the income generation objective, since in most contexts they are linked and compatible.

• Ø The potential economic benefits of home gardening, include the following:

• Ø gardening gives dual benefits of food and income generation;• Ø gardens provide fodder for household animals and supplies for other

household needs (handicrafts, fuel wood, furniture, baskets, etc.);• Ø marketing of garden produce and animals is often the only source of

independent income for women.

Choosing the Site

Vegetables grow best in an open, level area where the soil is loose, rich, and well drained. If the quality of the soil is poor, mix in 2-3 inches of topsoil, peat moss, strawy manure, compost, or leaves plus fertilizer. The more organic matter or topsoil you add, the more you’ll improve your soil. Avoid heavy clays, sandy soils, and shady spots

Seeds or Transplants?

Which seeds should you sow directly in the garden, and which do better if you plant them as seedlings (either purchasing transplants or starting the seeds indoors yourself)?

Many garden plants do just fine when you sow the seed directly in the garden. These plants usually mature relatively fast; so direct sowing works well. Plants with taproots, such as carrots, generally don’t transplant well, so it’s best to start them from seed right in the garden too.

Other plants have long growing seasons, or must be planted outdoors in early spring so they mature before the hot weather arrives. These do best when set in the garden as transplants.

Direct sow: Beans, beets, carrots, corn, lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, peas, radish, potato

Plant transplants: Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, cabbage, peppers, tomatoes, okra, asparagus,

rhubarb You can go either way with these: Cucumbers, squash, muskmelon, watermelon, pumpkins, gourds

Gardening SpacingPlant Inches Plant Inches

Asparagus 15-18 Beans 4-6

Beets 2-4 Broccoli 12-18

Cabbage 15-18 Carrot 2-3

Cauliflower 15-18 Cucumber 12-18

Egg plant 18-24 Lettuce Head 10-12

Lettuce Leaf 4-6 Melons 18-24

Mustard 6-9 Okra 12-18

Onion 2-4 Peas 2-4

Peppers 12-15 Potato 10-12

Pumpkin 24-36 Radish 2-3

Spinach 4-6 Squash 24=36

Tomatoes 18-24 Turnip 4-6

Sign of Harvest and Storage

The nutritional content, freshness, and flavor that vegetables possess depend on the stage of maturity and the time of day at which they are harvested. Over-mature vegetables will be stringy and coarse. When possible, harvest vegetables during the cool part of the morning and process them as soon as possible. If for some reason processing must be delayed, cool the vegetables in ice water or crushed ice and store them in the refrigerator to preserve flavor and

quality Here are some brief guidelines for harvesting vegetable crops: Asparagus -- Harvest the spears when they are at least 6 to 8 inches tall by snapping or cutting them at ground level. A few spears may be harvested the second year

after crowns are set out. A full harvest season will last 4 to 6 weeks during the third growing season. Beans, Snap -- Start harvesting before seeds develop in the pod. Beans are ready to pick if they snap easily when bent in half.

Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd

Beans, Lima -- Harvest when the pods first start to bulge with the enlarged seeds. Pods must still be green, not yellowish. Broccoli -- Harvest the dark green, compact cluster or head while the buds are

shut tight, before any yellow flowers appear. Small side shoots will develop later,

providing a continuous harvest. Brussels Sprouts -- Harvest the lower sprouts (small heads) when they are about

1 to 1 /2 inches in diameter by twisting them off. Lower leaves along the stem may be removed to hasten maturity. Cabbage -- Harvest when the heads feel hard and solid. Carrots -- Harvest when the roots are 3 /4 to 1 inch in diameter. The largest roots generally have the darkest tops.

Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd

Cauliflower -- Exclude sunlight (blanch) when the curds are 2 to 3 inches in diameter by loosely tying together the outer leaves above the curd with a string or rubber band. Harvest the curds (heads) when they are 6 to 8 inches in diameter but still compact, white, and smooth. The head should be ready 10 to 15 days after tying. Corn, Sweet -- Silks begin to turn brown and dry out as the ears mature. Check a few ears for maturity by opening the top of the ear and pressing a few kernels with a thumbnail. If the liquid exuded is milky rather than clear, the ear is ready for harvest. Cooking a few

ears is a good way to test for maturity.

Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd

Cucumbers -- Harvest when the fruits are deep green, before yellow color appears. The length should be 2 to 3 inches for sweet pickles, 5 to 6 for dills, and 6 to 8 for slicing. Pick 4 to 5 times per week to Encourage continuous production. Mature cucumbers left on the vine will stop production of the entire plant. Eggplant -- Harvest when the fruits are 4 to 5 inches in diameter and their color is a glossy purplish black. (A white variation is also available.) The fruit is getting too old when the color starts to dull or become bronzed. Because the stem is woody, cut -- do not pull -- the fruit from the plant. A short stem should remain on each fruit. Kale -- Twist off the outer, older leaves when they reach a length of 8 to 10 inches and are medium green in color. Heavy, dark green leaves are over-mature and are likely to be tough and bitter. New leaves will grow, providing a continuous harvest. Kohlrabi -- Harvest when the thickened stems or bulb (the edible part) is 2 to 3 inches in diameter by Cutting off the plant just below the bulb. Stems become woody if left too long before harvest.

Lettuce -- Harvest the older, outer leaves from leaf lettuce as soon as they are 4 to 6 inch

Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd

Muskmelons(Cantaloupes) -- Harvest when the stem slips easily from the fruit with a gentle tug. Another indicator of ripeness is when the netting on skin becomes rounded and the flesh between the netting turns from a green to a tan color. Mustard -- Harvest the leaves and leaf stems when they are 6 to 8 inches long; new leaves will provide a continuous harvest until they become strong in flavor and tough in texture from temperature extremes. Okra -- Harvest young, tender pods when they are 2 to 3 inches long. Pick at least every other day during thepeak-growing season. Over-mature pods become woody and are too tough to eat. Onions -- Harvest when the tops fall over and begin to turn yellow. Dig the onions and allow them to dry out in the open sun for a few days to toughen the skin. Then remove the dried soil by brushing and onions lightly. Cut the stem, leaving 2 to 3 inches attached, and store in net-type bag in a cool, dry place. Peas -- Harvest regular peas when the pods are well rounded; edible-podded varieties should be harvested when pods are well rounded but before seeds are more than one-half of their full size if the pods are to be eaten; harvest when seeds are fully developed but still fresh and bright green if pods are to be discarded. Pods are getting too old when they lose their brightness and turn light or yellowish green.

Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd

Peppers -- Harvest sweet peppers with a sharp knife when the fruits are firm, crisp, and full size. Green peppers will turn red if left on the plant. Allow hot peppers to attain their bright red color and full flavor while attached to the vine; then cut them and hang them to dry. Potatoes -- Harvest the tubers when the plants begin to dry and die down. Store the tubers in a cool, high-humidity location with good ventilation, such as the basement or crawl space to the house. Avoid exposing the tubers to light. Greening, which denotes the presence of dangerous alkaloids, will occur even with small amounts of light. Pumpkins -- Harvest pumpkins and winter squash before frost and after the vines dry up, the fruit color darkens, and the skin surface resists puncture from your thumbnail. Avoid bruising or scratching the fruit while handling it. Leave a 3- to 4-inch portion of stem attached to the fruit and store it in a cool, dry location with good ventilation. Radishes -- Harvest when the roots are 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. The shoulders of radish roots often appear through the soil surface when they are mature. If left in the ground too long, they will become tough and woody. Spinach -- Harvest by cutting all the leaves off at the base of the plant when they are 4 to 6 inches long. New leaves will grow, providing additional harvests. Squash, Summer -- Harvest when the fruit is soft, tender, and 6 to 8 inches long (3 to 4 inches across for patty pans). The skin color often changes to a dark, glossy green or yellow, depending on variety. Pick every two or three days to encourage production.

Sign of Harvest and Storage Contd

Tomatoes -- Harvest the fruits at the most appealing ripeness stage -- up to dead red ripe. (There are some yellow varieties of tomatoes.) Flavor is best at room temperature, but ripe fruit may be held at 45 O to 50oF for 7 to 10 days. Turnips -- Harvest the roots when they are 2 to 3 inches in diameter but before heavy frosts occur in the fall. The tops may be used as greens when the leaves are 3 to 5 inches long. Watermelons -- Ripe watermelons produce a dull thud rather than a sharp, metallic sound when thumped. Other ripeness indicators are a deep yellow rather than white color when the melon touches the ground, brown tendrils on the stem near the fruit, and a rough, slightly rigid feel to the skin surface

WHERE SHOULD I PLANT MY GARDEN? • Your garden should be close to home or work and easily accessible. You’ll soon grow • tired of commuting to a distant location. • If you have no usable soil, you can build open-bottom containers on top of almost • anything—even driveways, patios, and roofs. • Choose a location that receives full sunlight all day long (or at least from mid-morning • through the afternoon). • Avoid trees, buildings, tall fences, hedges, and bushes that would block out the sun. • Shade retards plant growth. • For better results and less work, choose a level area. A slight southern slope (toward • the sun) is ideal. • Avoid north slopes (away from the sun). They have more shadows, less direct sunlight, • and are sometimes too cold. • If your ground is on a hillside, plant on the contour. Always level the ground under the • containers. • Locate your garden near a readily available source of good water. • Do not use low spots where drainage is poor. Plants must have oxygen and will • suffocate in standing water. • Avoid windy areas, or build windbreaks. Tender plant leaves are easily damaged by • strong winds. • Fence the area to protect against animal and human intruders. If small animals are a • problem, use wire mesh at ground level.

• VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )Vegetable Specific Problem

Amaranthus Damping off, Choanephora blight

Artichoke Artichoke Curly Dwarf, Bacterial Crown Rot,Damping off,Powdery mildew,verticillum wilt

Asparagus Fusarium rot, root rot, crown rot

Beans Bacterial Brown Spot, Bacterial Wilt, Bacterial Blight ,Fusarium, Root Knot Nematodes, Bean common Mosaic Virus

Beet root Cercospora Leaf Spot, Damping off, Bacterial bligt , Downy Mildew, Powdery mildew, Black Root Rot,Root Knot Nematodes, Sugarbeet cyst nematodes

Bitter Gourd Powdery mildew, Fusarium wilt,Downey mildew, Bitter Gourd Mosaic,

Bottle Gourd Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab

Broccoli Alternaria Leaf Spot, Powdery mildew, Downy Mildew , Phoma Leaf Spot and stem Canker.

Brussels sprout Bacterila Leaf Spot,Bacterial soft rot, Damping off, Downey mildew, Phytophthera root rot , Powdery mildew, Ringspot, Verticillium wilt

Bursunday

Cabbage Sclerotinia head rot, Bacterial Soft Rot, Black rot, Black leg, Club root, Fusarium yellow, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Downey mildew

Carrot Aster yellow disease , Carrot rust, Leaf beetle, Nematodes, Bacterial Soft Rot, Sclerotinia stem rot, Black rot,

Cauliflower Cauliflower mosaic, Powdery mildew, White rust,

Chinese Cabbage Sclerotinia head rot, Bacterial Soft Rot, Black rot, Black leg, Club root, Fusarium yellow, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Downey mildew

Coriander Damping off , Rhizoctonia , Aster Yellow,

Cucumber Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial wilt, Anthracnose, Damping off, Fruit Rot , Downey mildew, Fusarium Wilt ,Target leaf spot, Mosaic,

Chillies Anthraconose, Bacterial Leaf spot, Bacterial Soft Rot, Bacterial wilt, Cercospora Leaf Spot, Damping off, Grey mold, Phytophthera blight, Powdery mildew, verticilium wilt, White mold , Pepper mottle virus, Tobacco etch virus, Tobacco mosaic virus

Eggplant Damping off , Mosaic , Root rot , TMV, Tomato Spotted Wilt, Verticilium Wilt

• VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )

Vegetable Specific Problem

Fennel Cercospora leaf blight, Powdery mildew, Rust, Downey mildew, Root Knot Nematodes,

French Beans Bacterial Brown Spot, Bacterial Wilt, Bacterial Blight ,Fusarium, Root Knot Nematodes, Bean common Mosaic Virus

Garlic Purpleblotch, Stemphylium blight, Cercospora Leaf blight, Powdery mildew , Mosaic disease

Ginger Bacterial wilt, Fusarium yellow , Rhizome rot, Root Knot Nematode, Pythium soft rot, Bacterial Soft rot

Gourd

Haldi Leaf blotch, Leaf spot, Rhizome rot

Kale Black rot, Alternaria leaf spot, Anthraconose, Damping off , Downey mildew, Root knot nematodes

Karam saag Bacterial black rot, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Club root, Downey mildew, Powdery mildew ,Sclerotinia stem rot , white rust, White Leaf spot , Mosaic

Kohlrabi Damping off, bacterial soft rot ,

Leek Downey mildew , Purple blotch ,

Lettuce Sclerotinia , Downey mildew , Bacterial soft rot, anthracononse , Rhizctonia, Black root rot , Bacterial Leaf spot

Limba Bean Bacterial Brown Spot, Bacterial Wilt, Bacterial Blight ,Fusarium, Root Knot Nematodes, Bean common Mosaic Virus

Marrow Squash Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial wilt, Anthracnose, Damping off, Fruit Rot , Downey mildew, Fusarium Wilt ,Target leaf spot, Mosaic,

Melon Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial wilt, Anthracnose, Damping off, Fruit Rot , Downey mildew, Fusarium Wilt ,Target leaf spot, Mosaic,

Okra White mold, Charcoal wilt, Southern blight, Root knot nematodes Powdey mildew

Onion Botrytis, Leaf blight, Leaf fleck, Neckrot, Downey mildew , onion white rot , Pink root , Purpleblotch Anthraconose , Smut

VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )

Vegetable Specific Problem

Peas Bacterial blight,Anthraconose, Downey mildew, Powdery mildew, Leaf mold, Fusarium root rot , Mosaic ,

Potato Septoria leaf spot, Anthraconose , Fusarium wilt, Verticilium wilt , Early Blight , Late blight, Mosaic virus , Fusarium wilt , nematodes ,

Pumpkin Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab

Ridge Gourd Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab

Spinach White rust, Downey mildew, Anthraconose, Leafspot, Fusarium wilt,

Squash Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab

Tomato Septoria leaf spot, Anthraconose , Fusarium wilt, Verticilium wilt , Early Blight , Late blight, Mosaic virus , Fusarium wilt , nematodes ,

Taro ( Kachaloo) Clocasia Blight

Turnip Anthraconose, Cercospora leaf spot, White spot, Downey mildew , Bacterial leaf spot

Water Melon Angular Leaf Spot, Bacterial Leaf Spot, Alternaria Leaf Blight, Anthracnose, Downy Mildew , Crown Rot, Powdery Mildew, Scab

• VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )Vegetable Specific Problem

Amaranthus Leaf miner, Leaf Aphids, Fleabeetle, Mites

Artichoke Artichoke Aphids, Armyworm,Loopers, Mollusks,

Asparagus Army worm , Asparagus beetle, Asparagus miner, Cutworm , Aphid , Thrips

Beans Bean Leaf beetle , Leaf miner , Bean Aphids , Potato Aphids ,Potato Leaf Hopper,Thrips, Corn Earworm,Melon Aphids,

Beet root Beet Webworm,Vegetable Weevil,Aphids and Jassids

Bitter Gourd Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly

Bottle Gourd Cucumber beetle, Squash vine borer

Broccoli Aphids, Cabbage looper, , Cabbage webworm, Diamond Back Moth Caterpillars, Cabbage Maggot, White Flies

Brussels sprout Beet armyworm, Cabbage Aphids, Cabbage maggot, Cutworm , Diamond back moth, Earwigs,Flea beetle , Leafminer, Loopers, Nematodes, Snails, White flies , wireworm

Bursunday

Cabbage Cabbage looper, Cabbage Aphids, Cabbge maggot , Diamond back moth, Cabbage Head worm , Beet army worm , Stripped Fleabeetle,

Carrot Carrot rustfly, Carrot weevil, Aster Leaf Hopper ,

Cauliflower Cucumber Beetle, Cabbageworm, Diamond Back Moth , Thrips, Cabbage Aphids , Fleabeetle, Beet armyworm, Cutworm , Root knot nematodes

Chinese Cabbage Cabbage looper, Cabbage Aphids, Cabbge maggot , Diamond back moth, Cabbage Head worm , Beet army worm , Stripped Fleabeetle,

Coriander Grass hoppers, Leaf hoppers,

Cucumber Cucumber beetle, Cabbage Looper, Fleabeetle, Aphids, Cutworm , Thrips,

Chillies Slug and snail, Aphids , Fleabeetle, Pepper maggot, Spider mite, Thrips, Whitefly

Eggplant Aphids, Army worm , cabbage Loopers, Fleabeetle, Hornworm, Silverleafwhitefly, Thrips , Spider mite.

• VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )

Vegetable Specific Problem

Fennel Army worm, Cut worm , Aphids

French Beans Bean Leaf beetle , Leaf miner , Bean Aphids , Potato Aphids ,Potato Leaf Hopper,Thrips, Corn Earworm,Melon Aphids,

Garlic Thrips, Stem and bulb Nematode, Mites,

Ginger Cutworm , Heliothis, Black beetle, Symphilids

Gourd

Haldi Shoot borer, Leaf roller, Scale insects,

Kale Cabbage ,looper , beet armyworm , Whiteflies, Caterpillars, Fleabeetle, Aphids

Karam saag Fleabeetle, Cabbage Aphid,

Kohlrabi Cutworm, Cabbageworm , cabbage loopers root maggot , Fleabeetle, Aphids, Slugs and snails,

Leek Onion thrips

Lettuce Beet armyworm , Cabbage looper, Cutworm, Aphids, Leaf hopper , greenhouse whitefly

Limba Bean Bean Leaf beetle , Leaf miner , Bean Aphids , Potato Aphids ,Potato Leaf Hopper,Thrips, Corn Earworm,Melon Aphids,

Marrow squash Cucumber beetle, Cabbage Looper, Fleabeetle, Aphids, Cutworm , Thrips,

Melon Cucumber beetle, Cabbage Looper, Fleabeetle, Aphids, Cutworm , Thrips,

Okra Army worm , Cornearworm. Loopers, Spidermite, Aphids, Thrips, Cucumber beetle

Onion Thrips, Onion fly,

VegetablesSpecific problems ( Diseases )

Vegetable Specific Problem

Peas Pea weevil, Native budworm , Aphids, Thrips, Lesser corn stalkborer , Spider mite ,

Potato Cutworm , Fleabeetle, Aphids , Leaf miner , Stalkborer , white flies , Spider mites, slugs

Pumpkin Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly

Ridge Gourd Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly

Spinach Caterpillars, Wireworm, Crown mites, Aphids, Leafminer,

Squash Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly

Tomato Cutworm , Fleabeetle, Aphids , Leaf miner , Stalkborer , white flies , Spider mites, slugs

Taro ( Kachaloo) Clocasia Blight

Turnip Cabbage maggot, Wireworm , Aphids, Cabbage looper, Diamondbackmoth

Water Melon Red Pumpkin Beetle, Fruit Fly

• WHAT SHOULD I PLANT? • Choose varieties that do well in your climate. If you live in a cooler northern climate, do • not try to grow long-season crops like peanuts or sweet potatoes. • Plan for only those vegetables that your family will eat, and only in quantities you can • use, preserve, give away, or sell quickly, while fresh. • Single-crop varieties like lettuce, broccoli, and cauliflower mature all at once, and so • must be used quickly. Don’t grow too much of these! • Ever-bearing crops like pole beans, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, squash, and • tomatoes mature a little at a time, feed you all season long, and have a high value for the • amount of space used, especially if grown vertically. • Single-crop varieties that are grown for storage may be important for your winter • emergency preparedness. Consider fall potatoes, cabbage, onions, winter squash, and • carrots. Cool storage (40–50 degrees Fahrenheit) will preserve these vegetables. • You can grow two crops of many single-crop varieties if you learn to grow and • transplant healthy seedlings.

• WHAT TOOLS DO I NEED? • A long-handled irrigation (or round-headed) shovel is important for initial soil • preparation and to remove perennial weeds and their rhizomes. • A strong 12”- or 14”-wide garden rake is good for removing weeds and leveling the soil, • as well as for mixing and leveling the custom-made soil in the containers. • A two-way hoe, sometimes called a scuffle or hula • hoe, is best for early weeding of small weed • seedlings in the aisles. It cuts them off just below • the soil surface with very little movement of the • soil. Container gardens rarely require weeding. • If you’re watering by hand, a garden hose with a gentle watering wand will let you • water quickly without washing out the custom-made soil from your containers. • Plant-spacing markers save time and give your garden a professional look while • providing equal light, water, and nutrition to each plant. Two rows of ½” dowels, • spaced 6” and 7” apart, will help you plant most varieties properly. • A wheelbarrow or large cart is useful for larger gardens.

• HOW SHOULD I PLAN MY TIME? • Schedule the time to create and grow your garden. Like a cow that has to be milked • twice daily, your garden needs daily care and attention to produce a high yield of • healthy crops. • Make a garden calendar and list the projects that need attention. That way you will not • forget important things like planting dates. • Plan on these time estimates for a garden of ten container beds that are each 10’-long: • o Six to eight hours to clear the area, construct containers, and make aisles. • o Four to six hours to prepare the custom soil, apply fertilizers, plant seeds, and • transplant seedlings. • o Twenty minutes per day, preferably in the early morning, to water, feed, prune, • and otherwise care for your plants. • o Two to ten minutes per day to harvest, depending on what and how much you • are harvesting.

• WHEN SHOULD WEED CONTROL BEGIN? • Properly prepared containers require very little weeding. • Using clean, weed-free materials for your growing medium is essential. Do not

use soil, • dirty sand, compost, or manure. • There are two main types of weeds: • 1. Perennials, which grow for many years from rhizomes (underground stems) • and runners (above-ground stems). • 2. Annuals, which grow from new seeds every year. • There are two main times to control weeds: • 1. While preparing your garden soil before planting: remove all weeds, • including perennial rhizomes and runners. • 2. Immediately after weeds sprout, usually 7–10 days after planting your • vegetable crop: weed thoroughly now!

• HOW CAN I PREVENT WEEDS? • Using a non-soil growing medium is one of the best ways to prevent weeds

in your • garden. • Other ways of preventing weeds from getting into your containers include: • o Irrigating with well water, the culinary water supply, or filtered water. • o Maintaining a wide weed-free perimeter around your garden. Weed seeds

often • travel through the air. • o Staying out of the containers. Shoes can carry weeds and diseases. • o Removing all weeds from the aisles when they are small and before they • produce seeds.