The Dumpling: A Seasonal Guide

TheDumpling

ASeasonalGuide

WaiHonChuandConnieLovatt

Waidedicatesthisbooktohisparents,WahandSandraChuConniededicatesthisbooktoherparents,JohnH.Lovatt

andMargaretH.Lovatt,andtoherhusband,RaviNandan

Contents

Introduction

GlossaryofIngredients

GlossaryofEquipment

Tips

DumplingFoldInstructionsandIllustrations

Recipes

JanuarySemolinaDumplingswithButterandCheeseSauce•Butter-TossedSpaetzle•PotatoandDumplingBoil-Up•SpicedGingerbread•AWealthofSteamedRiceMuffins•SteamedBreadRolls•“PriestStranglers”withBrownButterandSage•PotatoGnocchi•MarrowDumplingsinBeefBroth•Cassava“Tamales”StuffedwithPorkandChickpeas•PoundedRiceDumplings•NewYear’sDaySoupwithPoundedRiceDumplings

FebruarySpoon-DroppedSemolinaDumplings•ChocolateBreadCrumbPudding•Milk-SteamedBunswithVanillaCustardSauce•Cloud-ShapedBreadBuns•SteamedBreadLoavesStuffedwithStickyFriedRice•PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithHam•SilesianPotatoDumplingswithMushroomSauce•Chestnut

GnocchiwithWalnutSauce•PanfriedDumplingsStuffedwithChickenandMushrooms

MarchSteamedCornBread•SweetPotatoDumplingswithaMeltedSugarCenter•TinyGnocchiandCranberryBeanStew•CauliflowerSoupwithButteryBreadCrumbDumplings•CockleswithRiceDumplingsinaSpicyCoconutSauce•ChickpeaDumplingsinTomatoSauce•KashaandMushroomPierogi•RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandKohlrabi

AprilMasaBallSoup•ChickpeaSquaresToppedwithMustardSeedsandSpicedOil•Nine-LayerCoconutTapiocaCake•Salty-SweetBeanPuddingswithCoconutCreamTopping•MatzoBallsinaBeefBroth•Chive-StuffedDumplingswithTomatoSauceandMintedYogurt•WheatDumplingsStuffedwithTurmeric-StainedPotatoes•WheatDumplingsStuffedwithBeefandOnion•SpicyLamb-FilledDumplingsinaThickYogurtSoup•Oven-SimmeredLamb-FilledDumplingswithMintedYogurt•DumplingsStuffedwithPorkandCabbage

MayBlackSesameCupcakes•BoiledFishwithOkraandDumplings•SlipperyRiceBallsinCabbage-RadishSoup•PoundedCassavaDumpling•Mushroom-AsparagusBreadDumplingsinaMushroomSauce•CoconutandRiceColumnswithChickpeaCurry•SmallPorkBuns•SmallMushroomBuns•Pineapple-PecanTamales•TamalesStuffedwithChickenandTomatilloSauce•PoundedRiceDumplingsStuffedwithStrawberries•Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithChickenandBambooShoots

JuneFlattenedRiceDumplingswithGratedCoconutandAniseSugar•LeafBread,aFreshCorn“Tamale”•TaroBallsinaSweetCoconutSoup•CanaryPuddingwithLemonCurd•BlackSesameRoll-Ups•LemonyLentil-ChardSoupwithBulgurDumplings•FishRavioliwithaThinnedCreamSauce•StickyRiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandShrimp•RiceandTapiocaDumplingsToppedwithShrimpandBeanPaste•PorkTamaleswithGreenOlivesandJalapeño•TheArmoftheQueenTamale•Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithChickenandPeanuts

JulyBananaCupcakes•PlantainDumplingsinChickenBroth•“Napkin”Bread

DumplingwithCherries•FreshCornandCoconut“Tamales”•FreshCornandBasil“Tamales”•CabinetPudding,aCakeandAlmondCookiePudding•SweetandDarkPepperpotStewandDumplings•BottleneckedPorkandShrimpDumplings•RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPeanutandCoconut•LightlySouredRiceCakes

AugustPeachandBerryGrunt•CassavaPattieswithGratedCoconut•RedPeaSoupwithSpinners•Leaf-WrappedRiceandBananaBundles•WontonswithRedChileOil•CornTamalesStuffedwithStringyCheeseandPoblano•Leaf-WrappedBlack-EyedPeaDumplings•Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithPorkandBeans•Coconut-FilledRiceDumplings•TapiocaBallsStuffedwithMincedPorkandPeanuts

SeptemberWildGrapesandDumplings•BostonBrownBread•ChickenFricotwithDumplings•ChickenandDumplingSoup•BreadandSemolinaLoaf•OatandHoneyPudding•GrahamPotatoBuns•LayeredAppleandBreadPudding•BeefandOysterStewwithSuetDumplings•MildYogurtSemolinaCakes•BuckwheatDumplingsStuffedwithApplesandCheese•PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithSugar-StuffedPlums•Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithPeanutsandSausage

OctoberNo-FussPotatoDumplings•SpicedCarrotPudding•CollardGreenswithCornDumplings•ChickenPaprikawithDumplings•BeanSoupwithTinyDumplings•Chickpea“Fish”inaSpicyOnionSauce•BaconandSageRoly-Poly•DaikonCake•CheddarCheeseandPotatoPierogi•LentilandOnionPierogi•Potato“Tamales”StuffedwithChickenandJalapeño•Beef-StuffedPlantainBallsinaCassava-CornSoup

NovemberDumplingsandCocky’sJoy•“Napkin”BreadDumpling•TurkeyStewwithStuffingDumplings•CranberryPudding•LordRandall’sPudding,anApricotDessert•StickyToffeePudding•PotatoDumplingswithCroutonCenters•CountryCabbageSoupwithLargeCornmealDumplings•PhiladelphiaPepperpotSoupwithDumplings•LargeBeef-andSpinach-FilledDumplingsinaBeefBroth•DumplingsStuffedwithPears,Figs,andChocolate•PumpkinandLentilRavioliwithBrownedButterandRosemary•“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwithMushroomsinaBeetSoup

DecemberRootVegetableBreadDumplings•ClootieDumpling•StarchyCoconutStewwithSlipperyRiceBalls•GuavaDuff•PotatoDumplingswithCabbageLayers•JohnintheSack•ClassicChristmasPudding•ChocolateTamales•SiberianMeatDumplings•ChestnutRavioliwithSageButterSauce•Chicken-FilledDumplingsinanEscaroleSoup•DumplingsStuffedwith“Stewed”BreadCrumbs

BrothsChickenBroth•PorkBroth•BeefBroth•BeefandChickenBroth

Acknowledgments

DumplingsbyRegionandCountry

DumplingsbyType

VegetarianDumplings

SearchableTerms

AbouttheAuthors

Credits

Copyright

AboutthePublisher

Introduction

Thisbookisabouttraditionaldumplingsandthesimplepleasurestheycanbringintoyourkitchen.

Dumplingsembodythefoundationsofgoodcooking:ingredientsthatmakethemost of the seasons, time-honored techniques, and anopenmind.Becausemostdumplingsaremadebyhand,theypullyoudeeperintothecraftofcookingbyemphasizing thevalueof intuitionandthebenefitsof learning throughtrialanderror.

Much as with recipes for bread, pastry, pasta and noodles, pancakes,biscuits, and cakes, traditional dumpling recipes create delicious mainstaysloadedwithcharacterandcharm.Whatwehopetodemonstratewiththisbookistherealitythat,despitetheirsimilaritiestootherdough-orbatter-basedcreations,dumplingsareinacategoryalltheirown.

So,whatmakesadumplingadumpling?Isanempanadaadumpling?Isafritter?Everydefinitionwehavecomeacrosspresentsaslightlydifferentview.After exploring a thousand different dishes normally considered to bedumplings, it became clear to us that their identities revolved around two keytraits: They are made out of some kind of dough, batter, or starchy plantfoundation,andtheyareeithersteamed,simmered,orboiled.

It’stheuseofwetheatthatgetstotheheartofwhatadumplingreallyis,even if the basic ingredients are similar to what makes up bread, pastry, andpancakes. Baking, frying, and other dry-heat methods of cooking bestow adistinctive crust, rich with caramelized flavors. In contrast, the characteristicsoftness and clean taste that dumplings develop through wet heat cooking is

whatmakesthemsodistinctiveandspecial.Inthislight,wedonotseeempanadasorfrittersastruedumplings,evenif

theyareoccasionallyreferredtothatway,becausetheyarebakedorfried.Andwhile fish balls, meatballs, and cheese balls look like dumplings, and arepreparedbysimilarmethods,theyarenotincludedinthisbookbecausetheyarenotprimarilybasedonstarchyingredients.

Whiledumplingscomeinmanyforms,notjust“round”or“filled,”theyarenotshapedasstrands,orribbons,asarepastasandnoodles.

After working with hundreds of recipes for dumplings from around theworld, our ideas of dumplings had expanded to include them in all theirmagnificentvariety,anditalsoallowedustorefineourviewintothefollowingdefinition:

A dumpling is a portion of dough, batter, or starchy plant fare, solid orfilled,thatiscookedthroughwetheat,andisnotastrandorribbon.

Weprepareddumplingsfromwellovereighthundredrecipesbeforecompilingthiscollection.WeenvisionedthebooktoincludenotonlyAmericanfavoritessuch as chicken and dumplings and blueberry grunt but also dumplings fromEurope,SouthAmerica,andeveryotherpartoftheworldwheredumplingsareenjoyed. We wanted layered tapioca dumplings from Thailand and lavishlytopped rice dumplings from Vietnam. We wanted Middle Eastern dumplingssmothered in rich sauces and oil-slicked chickpea dumplings from India. Wecould not leave out stuffed plantain dumplings found only in Peru, or freshlypoundedmochifromJapan,withitsmarshmallowbiteandstickytexture.

Webringyoudumplingsthatarehallmarksofparticularregionsorcuisines,suchasthegenerouslyspicedChristmaspuddingfromEngland,thetamalefromMexico,andtheheartymomofromTibet.

Nor have we neglected dumplings like matzo balls and pierogi, whichtranscendtheirregionaloriginsandareeatenaroundtheworld.Ourrecipesforfavoritessuchasthesearepopularbutlesser-knownversions,notoftenincludedinmanycookbooks.

The 135 dumplings that follow, and the 60 soups, stews, and sauces inwhichthey’recooked,arealltraditional—adaptedonlyasnecessaryformodernkitchen equipment and ingredients. You will find a detailed glossary ofingredients, equipment, tips, and diagrams to help simplify even the mostdemanding recipes. That being said, we strongly encourage you to use your

hands, and notmachines,when you roll out the dough that certain dumplingsrequire.Ofcourse,youcanalwaysuseapastamachinefordoughthathastoberolledoutthin,butusingarollingpinconnectsyoumoredirectlytothedough.

Ourmonth-by-montharrangementoftherecipesisbasedonourexperiencesandpreferences and is not meant to be a fixed timeline. Certainly an “August”dumplingcanbemade inFebruary,butwe thinkyoumight find it tobeat itsmost excellent in August. One reason is that many of our recipes featureseasonal ingredients that are best at their natural peak, even if they may beavailableyear-roundinyourmarket.Somedumplingsareespeciallysuitableforcertain months when the weather mimics the climate or traditional servingseasonofthedumpling’shome.SpicydumplingsfromcentralVietnamaregreatonhotdays,whileseveralrichdessertdumplingsfromEnglandarebestduringthe coldermonths.Of course, holidaydumplings areplaced at the appropriatetimeofyear.

Within each chapter, the recipes have been arranged in order from theeasiesttothemostchallenging.Themoredemandingdumplingrecipesrequireadegreeoforderliness.Certaindumpling recipeshavemultiplecomponents thatmustbepreparedseparatelyandthenassembledtogethertocreatethefinaldish.Fillingandfoldingseveraldozendumplingsisnotacasualoperation,butitcaneasily become a relaxing and enriching way to spend your time if youringredients are sorted out, your workspace is clear, and you have allowedyourselfplentyoftime.Nomatterwhatyourlevelofexpertiseisinthekitchen,we hope that these recipes will encourage you to try your hand at creatingdumplings that are as enjoyable to make as they are to eat. There may betechniquesandingredientsinthisbookthatareunfamiliartoyou,butthisdoesnotmeanthatyouwillnotbeabletounderstandthem,applywhatyoualreadyknowasyouwork,andmakeafantasticbatchofdumplings.

GlossaryofIngredients

This book is as much about quality ingredients as it is about dumplings.Shopping seasonally and as close as possible to the food’s source ensures notonlythatyou’llgohomewithabetterproductbutalsothatyou’llbemoreapttosupportsmaller,moresustainablefarms.Farmerswhoprovidetheiranimalswithanaturaldiet,andwithplentyoflight,air,andspace,nurturenotonlythehealthof their animals but their customers’ health aswell.The following ingredientseitherplayacentralroleinthisbookormakeoccasionalappearancesbutmeritfurtherdescription.BEANS: Dried beans are simple and sturdy and can be made into satisfyingdumplings at any time of year.Bean dumplings are usuallymade by grindingsoaked dried beans into a pasty batter before cooking. In India, spoonfuls arefried before being simmered in stews and sauces. Other, similar batters aresteamed inmolds andpans.Cannedbeans are too soft tomake intodumplingdoughs and batters, but they are perfectly acceptable when added to soups,stews,andsauces.Besuretorinsecannedbeansthoroughlybeforeaddingthemtootheringredients.Someofthebeansusedinthisbookincludekidneybeans,cranberry (or borlotti) beans, chickpeas, black-eyed peas, mung beans, andadzukibeans.MungbeansproutsarealsousedinsomeAsiandumplings.

BREAD:Bread has long been incorporated into dumplingmaking throughoutEurope,especially inEngland,Germany, Italy,and theCzechRepublic. Ifyouare new to dumplingmaking (or just learning how to cook in general), bread

dumplings are good beginner’s recipes because they are easy to make. Thesimplestones involve littlemore than soakingbreadcubesorbreadcrumbs ineggsandshapingthemintoballstobeboiled.Hardlyanykneadingisinvolved.Breadisaveryflexibleingredientbecausetherearesomanykindsyoucanworkwith.Whilemostofthebreaddumplingsinthisbookcallforastandardloafofegglesswhitebread,youcansubstitutewholegrainbreadifyouwantadifferentflavororalessprocessedalternative.

Choosingyourbread.Whenbuyingbread,trytofindthefreshestloafpossiblethatisfreeofpreservatives.Preservative-filleddoughsrobtheloaforbunofitsnaturalcycle:asoftfreshness, thenafirmstaleness,andthenabrittledryness.Breadsmadewithpreservatives,likethosefoundatmostsupermarkets,aremorelikely tomoldbefore changing texture for you,making themuseless formostbreadcubesorbreadcrumbs.All-natural loaves,orrolls thatarefreshlymade,arenotonlybetterforeatingbutalsobetterfordumplingrecipes.Crustybreads,suchasciabattaorbaguettes,willstayfreshfornomorethanaday.Sandwichloavescanlastadayortwolongerbeforetheystale.

Cuttingoffthecrusts:Whenusingupleftoverbreadfordumplings,itisbesttoremovethecrustforamoreeventextureandneutraltaste.Useaserratedknifetotrimoffthecrustwhilethebreadisstillsomewhatsoft.Ifthebreadisalreadydry,gratingoffthecrust,whichcanbemessy,isafastandsomewhatsatisfyingprojectsimilartosculptingorsanding.

Breadcrumbs.Breadcrumbshaveahugecapacitytosoakupliquids.Thereisanoticeabledifferencebetweenadoughorbatterofbreadcrumbsthathasbeensoakingfor10minutesandonethathassoakedfor30minutes.Theyalsomakesoft,creamydumplingfillingswhenflavoredwithrichbrothsorcombinedwithotheringredients.

Tomakefreshbreadcrumbs:Removethecrustfromapieceofstalebreadandgrateitthroughthemediumorlargeholesofaboxgrater.

For dry bread crumbs: Allow the fresh bread crumbs to dry completely in a200°Fovenfor15 to20minutesor finelygrateadrypieceofbreadonabox

grater.

Bread cubes. Small bread cubes (or croutons) are a useful ingredient indumplingmaking,whethertheyaresoakedandreshapedintoballs,formedintoloaves,orfriedandstuffedintothecenterofapotatodumpling.

Tomakebreadcubes:Removethecrustfromapieceoffreshorstalebreadandcutthebreadinto½-inchto1-inchcubesusingaserratedknife.

Fordrybreadcubes:Arrangethebreadcubesinasinglelayeronabakingsheetandallowthemtodrycompletelyina200°Fovenfor20to25minutes.

Fried bread crumbs. Bread crumbs fried in butter are used frequently as atoppingorcoatingforpierogiandseveralotherEuropeandumplings.Theyaddasatisfyingcrunchtosoft,succulentdumplings.

Tofrybreadcrumbs:Foreach½cupofdriedbreadcrumbs,use1tablespoonofunsalted butter.Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs and stir continuously until they are golden brown and crispy. Serveimmediatelyorcooltoroomtemperatureonapaper-towel-linedplate.

CABBAGE: Cabbage is widely used in numerous European and Asiandumplings. Green cabbage, Savoy cabbage, bok choy, napa cabbage, andkohlrabi are all used as dumpling fillings, as are fermented cabbages such assauerkrautandkimchee.Cabbageisoftenpairedwithdumplingsinotherways,asasideorinsoups.

CASSAVA: This yamlike root, also known as yuca ormanioc, has a barklikeskin (often coated inwax formarket) andmilkywhite flesh. It is a staple inAfrican, SouthAmerican, Philippine, andCaribbean cooking.Like the potato,cassavacanbegratedrawandcookedintodense,chewydumplings,oritcanbecooked,mashed,andmadeintosofter,morecakelikedumplings.

Choosingyourcassava.Therearetwomaintypesofcassava(bitterandsweet),but only the sweet variety is sold whole in the United States. We use sweetcassava in all of our recipes and it is available at Caribbean or Asian foodmarkets and in the produce section of some supermarkets. Peeled and frozencassavacanalsobefoundatsomesupermarketsandcanbeusedasacomponentinsoupsandstews,butwedon’trecommendusingfrozencassavaasasubstitutefor fresh cassava in dumpling dough or batter recipes. Bitter cassava is toxicwhen rawand isoftenmade into flourorcoarsemeal,usingacarefulprocessthattakesdays,inwhichtherootissoakedtoleachoutthetoxinsandthensun-driedandground.ItisgenerallynotavailableintheUnitedStates.

Preparingthecassava:Sincethecassava’sskinissothickandwoody,youwillneedtopeelitwithaknife.Besureyouremovenotonlythewaxybrownbarkbutalsoabarelydistinguishable“secondskin”thatliesbetweentheskinandtheflesh of the cassava. This second skin is fine to eat, but it cooks up into anunappetizing shade of gray. After the cassava is peeled, quarter the fleshlengthwiseandpullorcutoutanytoughormorefibrousstrandsfromitscenter.

Tapioca.Tapiocapearlsandtapiocaflour(alsocalledtapiocastarch)aremadefromcassavaandareusedprominently inSoutheastAsiandumplings.TapiocapearlscomeindifferentsizesandcolorsandcanbefoundatAsianfoodmarketsandsupermarkets.Tapiocaflouraddsadistinctivejelliedbitetodumplingsandcanbefoundinmostsupermarkets.

COCONUT: Coconut milk and grated coconut are used regularly in manyIndian and Southeast Asian dumpling recipes. Grating your own coconut andmakingfreshcoconutmilktakessometime,buttheresultsarestunning.Wholecoconuts are available at different degrees of maturity. Young coconuts arevalued for their soft, silky flesh and tantalizing light “coconut water,” whilemature coconuts offer up a firm, thick flesh with a much more concentratedflavor.Brown and hairymature coconuts are the ones used for shredding andsqueezingcoconutmilk.It’simportanttobuycoconutsfromstoresthatsellthemoften.Coconutsthatsitaroundcanturnmoldyontheinside.Shakethecoconutandlistenforafaintsloshingsound.Iftheliquidsloshesconspicuously,ornotatall, thatmaybeasignofacoconutthatis just tooold.Welearnedtobuytwococonutsforeveryonecalledforinarecipe,incaseonewasadud.

Crackingthecoconut:Therearemanywaystocrackopenacoconut,andnoneofthemisveryelegant.Thisquickmethodworksbestforus:Wraponecoconutinthreeorfourlayersofpapertowels(youcouldalsouseakitchentowelandrinse it out afterward) and place it inside a sturdy plastic shopping bag or acomparablesack(doubleuponthebagsifneeded).Findagoodhardsurfacetowhackthecoconutagainst,indoorsoroutdoors.Gripthebagafewinchesabovethe coconut and slap it as hard as you can against the surface.Do this a fewtimes,evenafteryouhearitcrackopen,soyoucanloosenthemeatandbreakthe coconut apart into a fewmanageable pieces.Unwrap the pieces and rinsethemoffinabowlofcoolwater.

Removing the flesh: Fold up a kitchen towel and use it to hold a shard ofcoconut in one hand. Slide a sturdy and—we cannot emphasize this enough—blunt knife in between the shell and the flesh as far as you canwhile stillbeingabletotwisttheknife.Thistwistingmotionshouldpopthecoconutmeatout.Somecoconutswillbeeasiertoworkwiththanothers.Takeyourtimeanduseextracareinhandlingthesharpedgesofthecoconutshell.Onceallthemeathasbeenremoved,peeloffthebrownskinwithavegetablepeeler.Rinseoffthepeeledpieces in abowlof coolwater. If youarenotusing them immediately,peeledpiecesofcoconutcanbekeptinabowlcoveredwithadamptowelforupto2daysintherefrigerator.

Gratingthecoconut:Grate thecoconutpiecesoveraboardoracloththroughthelargeormediumholesofaboxgrater.Measureoutenoughcoconutforyourrecipeandkeeptheresttightlypackedandrefrigeratedforupto2daysorfrozenforuptoamonth.Ifmakingdried,gratedcoconut,spreadthecoconutoutonalarge sheet tray and bake in a 200°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes. One largecoconutshouldmake4cupsoffreshlygratedcoconutor,afterbaking,2cupsofdriedcoconut.

Makingfreshcoconutmilk:Putthemeatofonegratedcoconut(orthemeatofonecoconutthathasbeencutintosmallchunks)intoablender.Pourin¾cupofroom-temperature water, preferably nonchlorinated water, such as distilled orspringwater,andblendfor1minute.Addanother¾cupofwaterandblenduntilit ismixed evenly andmilky, about 1minute longer. Strain the coconutmilk

throughasturdysieve,pressingdownonthecoconutandsqueezingoutasmuchliquidasyoucan.Youshouldhavejustabout2cupsoffreshcoconutmilk.Usecoconutmilkshortlyafterithasbeenmade.Iflefttositforanhourortwo,itcanbegintoseparate(see“CollectingtheCoconutCream,”below).

Making themostoutofyourcoconut:Thesqueezed-outcoconutcanbeusedfor a second pressing by reblending it with the same amount of water. Thissecondpressingwillmakealightercoconutmilkthatcanbeusedtocookriceorpoachfish.Thesqueezed-outcoconutcanalsobedriedinanovenonlowheatandusedasatoppingorasabreadinginotherrecipes.

Collectingthecoconutcream:Coverthefreshlymadecoconutmilkandplaceitin the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Themilkwill separate into two distinctlayers,athickandcreamytoplayerandawaterybottomlayer.Gentlyscoopoutthe top layer of coconut cream, being careful not tomix it back into the thinbottomlayer.Youshouldbeabletogatherabout½cupofcreamfromevery2cupsoffreshcoconutmilk.

Usingcannedcoconutmilk.Cannedcoconutmilkcanbeusedwhencoconutsare not available or if there is not enough time to make coconut milk fromscratch. Be sure to buy unsweetened, all-natural coconut milk that containsnothingbutcoconut,water,andalittleguargum.Cannedcoconutmilkisthickerthan fresh, so it must be blended with water before use in these recipes. Ingeneral, mix 5 parts canned coconut milk with 3 parts water to obtain aconsistency comparable to fresh milk. (To use one 14-ounce can of coconutmilk,stirin1cupofwater.)

Usingcannedcoconutcream.CannedcoconutcreamisfoundinafewAsian,Caribbean,Mexican,andSouthAmericanmarkets.Itcanbedifficulttofind,soweusecannedcoconutmilkinitsundilutedforminstead.Creamofcoconutisasweetenedcoconutproductmorespecificallyforblendeddrinks,andalsoshouldnotbeusedasasubstituteforcoconutcream.

Usingpackagedfrozenordriedgratedcoconut.FreshlygratedcoconutcanbepurchasedfrozeninsomeAsianorSouthAmericangrocersorinspecialtyfood

markets.Lookforpackagesinwhichthecoconutappearsfirm,white,andfreeof ice crystals. Check the date if there is one. When buying dried, gratedcoconut,lookfortheall-natural,unsweetenedvariety.Mostwell-stockedhealthfood stores carry agood-qualitybrandofdried,gratedcoconut.Thepackageddried,gratedcoconut foundonmost supermarket shelves isheavily sweetenedandfullofpreservativesandisnotrecommendedfortherecipesinthisbook.

Cooking with coconutmilk. Coconut milk can separate when simmered forlongperiodsoftimeorwhenbroughtuptoarollingboil.Onceitseparates,orcurdles,thereisreallynowaytostirorwhiskitbacktogether.Thisfrustratingmishapiseasilyavoidedbykeepingyoureyeonthecoconutmilkasitsimmersandmakingsurenevertoletitcometoafullboil.And,whiletheflavorsarenotassuperlative,cannedcoconutmilkcanwithstandlongersimmeringtimesandhighertemperatures.

CORN:Ahugevarietyofdumplingsismadefromthisgrain.Nowhereis thismoreapparentthaninMexico,partsofSouthAmerica,andtheUnitedStates.

Freshsweetcorn.Thesimplestcorndumplingsaremadefromfreshlycutandpulped kernels, wrapped in the corn’s own husks and steamed into tender,curdlikedumplings.Placing thereservedcornsilkand thestrippedcobs in thesteamingwateraddsevenmoreflavorandaroma.

Dried field corn for masa. Ground nixtamalized corn is the foundation ofalmosteveryMexicantamaleandtortilla.Drykernelsoffieldcornareboiledinasolutionofwaterandslakedlime(calciumhydroxideor“cal”)andsoakedforup to24hours,creatingnixtamalizedor slakedcorn.Thecorn is thencleanedandgroundintoapasteonagrindingstonecalledametate.(We’veadaptedourrecipetoworkinafoodprocessor;seeFRESHMASA.)Thisgroundpaste,ormasa,canthenbemadeintodifferentbattersanddoughsfortamales,flatbreads,fritters, or pastries. Although making your own fresh masa can be a lengthyprocess, it’s a procedure that imparts a balance to the flavor of corn inimmeasurableways.You can also find fresh or frozenmasa at someMexicanmarketsandthroughmail-ordersuppliers.CalciumhydroxideissoldasagrainywhitepowderandcanbefoundatsomeMexicanmarkets.

Masaharina.Masaharinaisaprocessedmealmadeoutofdriednixtamalizedcornpaste.Itisthereliable,ready-to-usesubstituteforfreshmasaandattimesmaybe preferred, especially by thosewho appreciate amore cakelike tamale.Tamalerecipesinthisbookallowtheoptionofusingeitherfreshmasaormasaharina.

Cornmealandcornflour.Werecommendbuyingcornmealthathasbeenstoneground,whichissomewhatcoarse.Whenafinerconsistencyiscalledfor,youcangrinditfurtherinaspiceorcoffeegrinderbypulsingitafewtimes.Storecoarselygroundcornandotherwholegrainfloursintherefrigeratortopreventtheir natural oils from spoiling. Corn flour is much finer than cornmeal andshouldnotbesubstitutedforcornmeal.

EGGS:Eggsaddbothmoistureandstrengthtodoughthathastoberolledoutuntilthin,andtobattersthataredroppedintoboilingwater.Theybindtogetherbreadcubesandbreadcrumbsindumplingsthatwouldotherwisecrumbleapart.Yolksadddepthtofillings,andwhippedwhitesaddlightnesstosteamedcakes.Slicesofhard-boiledeggaretuckedintoanumberofdumplings.Therecipesinthisbookweretestedwithlarge,organic,free-rangeeggs.Theseeggstastemuchbetterandhavericheryolksandlesswaterywhites.Eggsarealsoverypopularservedupwithleftoverdumplings.

FATS ANDOILS: Dumpling doughs and batters—just like those of breads,pastries,biscuits,andsoon—oftenrelyonsomesortofoilorfatfortendernessand a richer flavor. Lard, suet, and butter are commonly used by dumplingmakersaroundtheworldandappearmanytimesinthisbook.Avarietyofoilsisalsousedtomakedumplings.Chemicalsandtoxins tendtobefatsoluble,andbecausefatsandoilsarenaturallydenseorhighlyconcentrated,theirqualityisparamount,makingorganicoptionsmoreappealing.

Lard. Rendered pork fat or lard is used regularly in dumplings, especially inMexicoandChina.Mostof the lardcalled for in thisbook isused in tamales.All-natural lard has a slightmeaty smell, an extremely creamy texture, and acertainindefinablequalitythatseriousdumplingfansclaimcannotbeduplicatedby substitutes. Leaf lard, the fat found around the kidneys, is considered thefinest. Some butchers andwell-stockedMexicanmarkets sell fresh aswell as

rendered lard.Commerciallyprocessed lard isdeodorized,bleached, andoftenpartially hydrogenated and is not used in this book. When making desserttamales, we use lighter-tasting solid fats—either nonhydrogenated vegetableshortening or butter. Tamales can be made vegetarian with nonhydrogenatedvegetableshortening.

Torenderlard:For1cupoflard,finelychop½poundofskinlessporkfatintosmallpiecesandplaceinasmallpot.Placethepotoververylowheatandallowthefattomeltslowlyintoanoilyliquid.Donotcover.Thisstepmaytakeupto1hour.Stiroccasionally tohelp thefat renderevenly.Once thefathasmeltedcompletely, strain it through a sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth.Oncerendered,itshouldbekeptrefrigeratedinatightlysealedglassjarforupto1weekorfrozenforupto1year.

Suet.Thestifffatfoundaroundthekidneysofcowsisthemostcommonlyusedformofsuet.ItisnotusedoftenintheUnitedStates,butitisn’ttoohardtotrackdown. Butchers who sellmore than steaks and chicken should be able to gettheir hands on some. Suet is used most often in England, most notably insteamed puddings and pastries. Its ability to melt slowly, even at hightemperatures,makesitanidealfatforthelongcookingtimesofpuddings.Youcanusesuetstraightfromthebutcherbychillingitandcuttingitintosmallbits,or you can render it first for a smoother consistency.Rendering suet removesmost of themeaty flavor and is suggested for the sweet steamedpuddings. Inmost recipes, if suet is unavailable or not preferred, you can substitute gratedfrozenbutter.

Tochoprawsuet:Peeloffanymembranesfromaroundthefatandremoveanynoticeablebitsofmeat.Breakthesuetintosmallerchunksandchopveryfine.Ithelpstofirmupthesuetinthefreezerforatleast1hourforacleanerchop.Ifthesuetbeginstogetsticky,sprinklewithalittleall-purposeflourandcontinuechopping.Don’tworryifthechoppedsuetclingstogetherinclumps,asyouwillberubbingitintoflourlater.

Torendersuet:For1cupof renderedsuet,cleanandfinelychop½poundofrawsuetintosmallpiecesandplaceinasmallpot.Placethepotoververylowheatandallowthesuettomeltslowlyintoanoilyliquid.Donotcover.Thisstep

maytakeupto1hour.Stiroccasionallytohelpthefatrenderevenly.Oncethesuethasmeltedcompletely,strainitthroughasievelinedwithseverallayersofcheesecloth. Once rendered, it should be kept refrigerated in a tightly sealedglassjarforupto1weekorfrozenforupto1year.

Butter.Butter is thepreferred fat for agreatnumberofdumplingdoughs andfillings, andmelted buttermay be theworld’smost common dumpling sauce.We use only unsalted (or sweet) butter and add saltwhen needed.All-naturalbutterofall typesiseasyenoughtofind,butthebuttermadefromthemilkofgrass-fedcowstastesbest.Avoidusingmargarineorartificiallyflavoredspreadsasasubstituteforbutter.

Ghee.Clarified—andthenslightlycaramelized—butter,orghee,isusedoftentomake dumpling fillings, along with stews, sauces, and soups for dumplings,throughoutSouthAsiaandtheMiddleEast.Ghee,whenliquid,isgolden,thick,andsilky.Oncechilleditfirmsupandturnsamilky,mildyellow.Ithasanutty,buttery fragrance and outshinesmelted or clarified butter, keepswell at roomtemperature, and like clarified butter, has a high smoking point. Ghee can befoundatIndianandsomeMiddleEasternmarkets,manyhealthfoodstores,andwell-stockedgrocerystores.Keepaneyeoutfor,andresistpurchasing,gheethatishydrogenated.Ifyouareunabletofindall-naturalghee,itissimpleenoughtomakeathome.

Tomakeghee:Placeonepoundofunsaltedbutter inamediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Donotcover.Oncethebutterhasmeltedandhasafoamysurface,reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 8 to 10 minutes. Stiroccasionally.Oncethefoamthinsoutandthemilksolidsatthebottomofthepotare golden brown, remove from the heat. The gheewill be a light tomediumcaramel color. Skim off any foamy bits from the surface and strain the ghee,leavingasmanyofthecookedsolidbitsasyoucaninthepot,throughasievelinedwithseverallayersofcheesecloth.Youshouldhaveabout1¾cups.Keeprefrigeratedinatightlysealedglassjarforupto3monthsorfrozenforupto1year.

Grapeseedandotheroils.When sautéingor frying ingredients for fillingsorsauces, we use primarily grapeseed oil. It has a high smoking point and no

discernibleflavor.Aneutraloilsuchasthiscanbeusedinrecipesfromaroundtheworldwithoutchangingsignatureflavors.Peanut,olive,andsesameoilarealso used in this book. Coconut oil that has not been hydrogenated is a goodcookingoilthatworkswellinrecipeswherealightcoconutflavoriswelcomed.

FISH, SHRIMP, AND SHELLFISH: There are relatively few traditionaldumplingsmadewithfishorseafood,comparedwithmeat,mushrooms,beans,andothersavoryfillings.Morepopulararefishballs(suchasgefiltefish),fishcakes(suchascrabcakes)orfritters(suchasshrimpballs).Althoughdumplingsarepopular inplaceswherepeople tend to eat a lot of fish, only ahandful oftraditionaldishescombinefishwithdumplings.Theflavorsoffishareperhapstoo subtle to be paired with something as mild as a starchy dough or batter.Shrimpandshellfish,however,arepopular invariousChineseandVietnamesedumplings,especiallythosewrappedinriceortapiocadoughs.Cockles,oysters,sole,andshrimparesomeoftheseafooditemsthatappearinthesepages.

Driedorsaltedfishandshrimp.Seafood that ispreservedbyeitherof thesemeans is used in dumplings from Vietnam, China, Japan, Africa, and theCaribbean. Dried shrimp powder is a popular topping for many Vietnamesedishes,butinChinasmalldriedshrimpareusedtoinstantlyflavorsoups,rice,andmanyotherfoods.InJapan,thebrothformanysoupsisflavoredwithdriedfishshavingsandpiecesofdriedseaweed.FishisplentifulintheCaribbeanandparts ofAfrica, and dried and salted fish are often used to provide a differenttextureandtastewhenservedwith,orstuffedinto,dumplings.

Fruits:Dumplingsarerefreshingwhenmadewithfruitthat’sperfectlyripeandin season, while dried fruit dumplings are sticky, warming, and substantial incoldermonths.

Apples.Thereisawell-knowndessertcalledanappledumplingthatisadough-wrappedapple,stuffedwithbutter,sugar,spices,andoftennutsandbakeduntilgoldenbrown.Becauseitisbaked,itisnottechnicallyadumplinginoureyes,andwe’ve not included it in this book.We have includedLayeredApple andBread Pudding and Buckwheat Dumplings Stuffed with Apples and Cheese(bothinSeptember).

Stone fruit and berries. We used all sorts of plums, cherries, peaches,blueberries, and strawberries as we cooked our way through hundreds ofdumplings. There is something special about these highly perishable fruitswrappedup and cooked to a jamlikeperfection insidepockets of tasty dough.Thick, sticky batters dropped by the spoonful onto the surface of a bubblingstonefruitorberrystewcreateclassicsummerandearlyfalldesserts.Recipesinthisbookuseprimarilyfreshfruit,butthereisnodenyingthatthesefruitsalsofreezewell,andbagsofblueberriesorslicedpeachescanbekeptonhandforaquickdumplingdessertanytime.

Dried fruit. Raisins, dried plums (prunes), dried currants, dried apricots, andotherdriedfruitsaremore intense thanfreshversions.Theycanbefound inanumberofsteamedpuddingsfromEngland—theirinnatestickinesshelpstobindfloursandbreadcrumbs togetherwhenused in largeamounts—and toa lesserextent in steamed breads, cakes, and other dumplings throughout the rest ofEurope,theAmericas,Russia,andAsia.Driedfruitkeepswellandisavailablefordumplingmakingyear-round,butitsdarker,near-spicyrichnessisespeciallyeffective during the coldmonths.Many health food stores sell sugar-free andpreservative-free dried fruit, which ensures character and exceptionally goodtaste. The flavor of treated dried fruit tends to melt away once the fruit issteamedorboiledwithindumplingbattersordough.

HERBS, SPICES, SAUCES, AND PEPPERS: Certain dumplings aren’tcomplete unless matched with fish sauce, soy sauce, hot sauce, or othercondiments. Peppers, especially hot peppers, are vital to many Asian, Indian,Caribbean,Mexican, andAfrican dumpling dishes. Spices, herbs, and peppersareused to intensify the flavorofbothdumpling fillingsand thesoups, stews,sauces,andbrothsinwhichthedumplingsareserved.

Black pepper. Whole peppercorns are used to add an alluring spice andfragrancetomanyofthebrothsinwhichdumplingsareserved.Freshlygroundpepperisalsousedtoseasonafairnumberoffillings,soups,sauces,andsoon,throughoutthebook.Wefoundgroundblackpeppertobeusedmostindulgentlyas a topping for certain Eastern European and Russian dumplings, especiallythoseslatheredwithmeltedbutter,sourcream,orvinegar.

Chile peppers and powders. Spicy-hot dumpling fillings, stews, soups, andsauces are found predominantly in Asian, Mexican, African, and Caribbeankitchens. Whether the peppers are fresh, dried, or powdered, their use iscompletely to taste.Dumplings that are traditionally quite hot are prepared inthisbookin themedium-hotrange.Ifyouknowyourheat toleranceandknowyourpeppers,youcandefinitelyaddmore (or less).Wheneverpossible, try tousethepepperswerecommendintherecipe.Regionalfavoritesarefavoritesfora reason, and they have a role that is not easily replaced. You can find thepeppers used in the following recipes at Indian, Thai, Chinese,Mexican, andAfrican groceries and, depending on your location, some well-stockedsupermarkets,healthfoodstores,andspecialtymarkets.

Fish sauce. Fermenting fish simply with salt or other spices creates anelaboratelyflavoredandglossysauce.Someareconcoctedfromonlyone typeofsmalloilyfish,othersarepreparedfromaspecificratiooftwoormoretypesoffishorfishparts,andstillothersaremadeofaseeminglyrandommixtureofall things from the sea with scales or shells. The aroma of fish sauce is anacquired appreciation for some.Well-aged fish sauces smell mildly fishy andnuttycomparedtothesharp,dead-fishfragranceofsomeyoungervarieties.Thisaddictive sauce is used regularly to season fillings and dipping sauces for anendless numberof dumplings in thePhilippines,Thailand,Vietnam, andotherSoutheastAsiancountries.

Ginger.Dumplings from all regions ofAsia depend on the refreshing, biting,andintriguingpropertiesoffreshlygratedorchoppedginger.Agratingofgingeraddsimmediatelifetomeat,vegetables,andmushrooms.Itwakesupthemouthand,whennotoverused,callsdirectattentiontotheflavorsandfragrancesoftheotheringredients,includingthedough.Gingeristemperamental.Onepiecewillbemild,fruity,andbasicallyfiber-free,whileanotherpiecewillbehot,strong,andwoodyintexture.Lookforsectionsthathavesmooth,thinskinspulledtautagainst the flesh. Avoid pieces that look shriveled or dried out in parts. If arecipecallsforchoppedgingerandyoufindyourselfwithaparticularlyfibrouspiece,grateitasbestyoucanandaddslightlyless.

Herbs.Freshherbsareusedmostofteninthisbook,butdriedherbscanusuallybesubstituted,usingaboutone-thirdoftheamount.Butwhenarecipecallsfor

½bunchofthymeor½cupofbasil,suchalargeamountmustbefreshandnotreplaced by the dried. Occasionally, when a recipe calls for dried herbsspecifically,freshshouldnotbesubstituted.

Pandan(orscrewpine)leaves.ItisoftensaidthatpandanistoAsiancookingwhat vanilla is to European or Western cooking. But Westerners can’t growvanilla in their backyards and gardens the way pandan is grown throughoutThailand,thePhilippines,andothercountries.Itaddsbothanaromaticessenceto dumplings that we can only describe as sweet caramelized grass and,depending on how it is prepared, a natural shade of green.These tall, grassy-looking leaves are found, fresh or frozen, in good Thai, Philippine, andVietnamese markets. Pandan extract is sold clear or artificially dyed green,resulting inamoreelectric typeofcolor. Ifyouhave touse theextract, try tofindthecleartype.TheextractcanbefoundatthesameAsianmarketsthatcarrytheleavesand,attimes,atwell-stockedsupermarketsorspecialtyfoodmarkets.

Sichuan(orSzechwan)pepper.Thisisnotreallyapepperbutatinyberrylikepod thatopensupandgetsextremelybrittle as itdries.The seed inside isnotwhat’sused.It’sthepodandthebitofstemthataregroundintoapowderyspice.Ithasapeppery,bitter,andslightlemonyflavorthatworksbrilliantlywithmostother spices as well as with sweet and savory ingredients. What makes theSichuan peppercorn really unusual is its temporary, but nonetheless powerful,anesthetic properties. Sichuan pepper blankets the mouth with a mild tomoderate numbness thatmay be off-putting if you don’t expect it.Youmightthink that a spice would have to be really hot to numb your tongue, but this“pepper”isn’thotatall.Whatitdoesquitewell,though,isprimeyourmouthforthehotter,spicierpeppersusuallyblendedwithit.

Soy sauce. Soy sauce is made from fermented soybeans and, aside fromsaltiness, adds a distinctive aged essence to dumpling fillings and dippingsauces.Therearetwomaintypesofsoysauce,darkandlight.Darksoysauce,foundatmanyAsianmarkets,isslightlythicker,darker,andlesssaltythanlightsoysauce.Lightsoysauce is the typefoundatmostsupermarketsand iswhatweuseinthisbook.

Spices.Grindingyourspicesfreshaddstremendouslifetodumplingrecipesthat

are,moreoften thannot,quitesimple.Bygrindingyourownspices inaspicegrinderorasmallmortarwithapestle,youcanaddafullnessandafreshnessthatwillbenefitanydumpling.Toastingcertainspicesinadrypanalsohelpstocoaxouttheirflavors.

MEATS:Makingthemostoutofapieceofmeat—takinghardlyenoughtofillasmallbowlandturningitintoenoughdumplingstofeedafamily—iswhatmeat-filleddumplingsareallabout.Dumplingsalsoefficientlymakeuseofjustaboutallthepartsoftheanimal.Tripe,knuckles,feet,tail,andmarrow,aswellastheless expensive cuts of meat, such as shoulder, neck, belly, and ribs, are allfeaturedintherecipesthatfollow.

Choosingyourmeat.Despitetheexplosionoffactoryfarmsandtheillusionof“cheap” chicken or beef,meat should be handled just as traditional dumplingrecipes have long dictated—respectfully. Buy the best-quality meat you can,from trusted butchers, farmers’ markets, or organic food markets. Whenpurchasingmeat,it’simportanttobuyfromsourcesthatfeedtheanimalsadietthatisnaturaltothem,allowsthemtomoveabout,anddoesnotfalselybulkuptheirbodieswithhormones.

Choppingmeat fine: Inmany dumpling fillings, if themeat isn’t ground, it’schoppedupprettyfine.Choppingmeatintosmallbitsallowsyoutomakeeventhetoughestcutsofmeattenderwithoutcookingitforhours.Tomakechoppinganeasier task,stiffenup themeatbychilling it forabout1hour in thefreezerjustbeforechopping.

Salted, cured, smoked, ordriedmeat.Meats that are naturally preserved byoneormoreofthesemethodsaretheidealaccompanimenttodumplings.Thesemeats have a heightened flavor that many find overwhelming. However, thesame intense flavors becomemuch lighter and utterly delectablewhen servedwithorwithinsomethingblandandstarchy,suchasadumpling.Recipesinthisbookmake use of salt pork, corned or salt beef, bacon, pancetta, mortadella,driedChinesesausage,andavarietyofsmokedandcuredhams.

MUSHROOMS:Agoodcookknowsthattherearefewingredientsasversatile

asthemushroom.Thiscertainlyholdstruewhenmakingdumplings,especiallyin kitchens throughoutAsia, Russia, andEurope.Mushrooms add texture andgoodflavorandcanbechoppedfine,sliced thinor thick,or leftwhole.Whennottuckedintodumplings,mushroomsaregreatforsaucesandgraviestopouroverthetop.Mushroomsareagreatsubstituteformeatinmanydumplings.

Choosing the right mushrooms. Consider personal preferences, cost, andavailabilitywhenworkingwithmushrooms,butkeepinmindthatonekindcanoften substitute for another. There are a few general rules: Strongly flavoredporcini or portobello mushrooms are not good substitutes for mushrooms inAsianrecipes,noraretheflatterflavorsofwhitebuttonorcreminimushroooms,which just get lost. It’s best to substitute one Asian mushroom for another.Shiitakeormaitake (hen-of-the-woods)willnotalwaysworkasasubstitute inEuropeanrecipes,buttheycanmakedo,especiallywhentheyaremixedwithasmall handful of othermushrooms such as porcini ormorels for a directionalboost in flavor. We find thatmaitake and oyster mushrooms work well as asubstitute for any type ofmushroom, nomatter the region.They are light buthavejustenoughflavortoreactwiththeotheringredients,resultinginamildbutperfectlyflavoreddumpling.

Dried mushrooms. Dried mushrooms are the premier pantry ingredient fordumplingsbecausetheycanbekeptfragrantinjarsformonths,ifnotseasons,ata time and make an excellent, satisfying filling, sauce, or soup. They haveintense,provocative flavors thatalways range fromgood toexceptional.Driedshiitake or black mushrooms, for example, have an extra-firm texture that ismeaty, chewy, andvastly different from the fresh.Thebonusofworkingwithdried mushrooms is the rich soaking liquid. It can add flavor and balance tobroths,soups,sautéedfillingingredients,andmuchmore.

Freshmushrooms.Freshmushroomsarelighterintextureandtastethandriedmushrooms,whichmakethemperfectforsubtlesauces,soups,orstews.Whenintended for fillings, freshmushroomsshouldbechoppedandsautéed tocookoff excess liquid, intensifying their flavor and density, before being added toother ingredients.Nomatterwhichmushroomsyouareusing, if theyaren’t ingood shape, their flavorswill be off.Avoid slimy surfaces and soggy-lookingedgesortheoppositeproblem—dried,shriveledtops,edges,orgills.

ONIONS: Onions are found in countless dumpling recipes. Not only basicyelloworwhiteonions, but leeks, scallions, chives, garlic chives, and shallotsareallused tomakedumplingsaround theworld.Onionsare readilyavailableand can add a natural sweetness and caramelization to anything cooked withthem.Theyaddmoisturetofillings,breakupdenseringredients,andworkwithalltypesofstarches,seasonings,meats,andmushrooms.

PLANTAINS:Plantainsareusedinacoupleofdumplingrecipesinthisbook.Like potatoes, they can be grated when raw or cooked and mashed. Ripeplantains peel easily, but you may have to use a knife with green plantainsbecausetheskinisstillfastenedtotheflesh.Theirripenessis indicatedbythecolor of their skins: green (unripe), yellow with black spots (semi-ripe), andblack(ripe).

To peel a green plantain: Score the skin four times down the length of theplantaininevenlyspacedsections.Useyourfingerstoprytheskinfree.Anybitsofpeelleftbehindwilloxidizeandturnblackmuchfasterthantheflesh,sotheyareeasytospotandpickoff.

POTATOES: The ever-dependable potato is the foundation for manytremendously filling dumpling dishes.You canmake dumplings out of gratedrawpotatoes, cookedand riced (ormashed)potatoes,or acombination.Whenused in doughs and batters, potatoes add moisture and softness and act as anatural leavener.Potatodumplingsareprevalent throughoutEurope, especiallyScandinavia,Germany,Poland,andnorthernItaly.

Baking (russet) potatoes. Because these potatoes are high in starch andrelativelylowinmoisture,bakingpotatoesarethemostcommontypeofpotatousedformakingdumplingdoughsorbatters.Dumplingsmadefromgratedrawrusset potatoes are usually firm and chewy,whereas thosemade from cookedandricedpotatoesaresofterandmoredelicate.

Boiling (YukonGoldandred-skinned)potatoes.Boiling (orwaxy) potatoes

haveahighermoisturecontentandareseldomusedfordumplings.Theycookupfirm,holdtheirshape,andarebestinsoupsandstewsalongsidedumplings.

Riced vs. mashed potatoes. Using a potato ricer is the easiest way to turncooked nonwaxy potatoes into a fluffy, floury mound of superfine potatocrumbs.Riceyourpotatoeswheneverasmooth, lump-freedoughisdesired.Afoodmilldoesagoodjobtoo.Mashingpotatoeswithapotatomashercanworkforalessdelicatedoughorwhenthepotatoismeantforfillings.Riceormashpotatoesimmediatelyaftercookingwhiletheyarestillhot,becausetheyfirmupconsiderablyoncecool.

Working with grated raw potatoes: Raw potatoes can hold a lot of juice.Squeezing grated potatoes in a cloth changes a potentially sloppy and wetingredientintosomethingmuchmoremanageable.Thisstepalsocutsdownonthe amount of flour needed when making a dough or a batter out of gratedpotato.Thelessflouryouadd, themorepotato tasteyouwillhave.Welike togratethepotatoesontoakitchentowel,spreadthemout,rollthetoweluplikeajellyroll,andthentwistittightlytosoakupexcessmoisture.

Peeling cooked potatoes: For doughsmadewith boiled potatoes, it is best tocookthepotatoeswhole,withtheirskinson, tohelpkeepoutunwantedwater.Peeling a hot potato isn’t hard if you let it cool slightly, hold it firmlywith akitchentowel,andpeelawaytheskinwithyourfingers.

POULTRY:Aswithallkindsofmeat,seekoutchickens,turkeys,orotherbirdsthatarefedanaturaldiet,arefreeofgrowthhormones,andareallowedtowalkaroundandusetheirmuscles.Atraditionalrecipecallingforchickenbreastwillbeoverwhelmedbytheenormoussizeoftoday’sfactory-farmedchickenbreast.Anaturalchickenbreastisgenerallyhalfthesizeofthosejumbo-sizedcutsandiswhatisusedinthisbook.

RICE:Riceisusedinmorevarietiesofdumplingsthananyothergrainintheworld.There are thousandsof different typesof dumplingsmade from rice orriceflourthroughoutEastAsia,SoutheastAsia,andIndia,andtheyareavaluedstaplebothineverydaycookingandattimesofcelebration.Ricedumplingsare

alsofoundinpartsofSouthAmericaandAfrica.Mostofthedumplingsinthisbook are made with either a short-or medium-grain sticky (or “sweet”) ricepopular throughoutAsia.Wealsousebasmati rice for some IndiandumplingsandsomebasicricefloursforanumberofotherAsiandumplings.

Stickyrice.Delectable“sticky,”“sweet,”or“glutinous”rice(althoughactuallythere is absolutelynogluten in rice) is themost important ingredientwithin awiderangeofleaf-wrappeddumplings.Asthesedumplingscook,thegrainsofricesoftenandswell intoeachother,creatingachewy,glistening,andfragrantloafwithin the leaf. Ingeneral, leaf-wrappeddumplingsfromChinaandJapanaremadewithachubbyshort-grainrice,suchasbotanormochi.Thisricecooksupverymoistandstickyandhasanaturalmilkysweetness.Itcanbefoundatsomesupermarketsandatmanyspecialtyfoodmarkets. InThailandandmuchofSoutheastAsia,amedium-grainstickyrice isused,whichcooksupquicklyandisperfectforsoakingupthesubtleflavorsfromcoconutandpandan.ThisricecanbefoundatThaigrocersandwell-stockedAsianmarkets.

Basmatirice.Thefragrant,irresistiblelong-grainriceofIndia,whenusedinthefollowingrecipes,isusuallygroundintoacoarseorfinemeal.Grindingthericeyourself creates perfectly nibbly andutterly fresh-tastingdumplings.Wegrindour rice in a clean spice or coffee grinder. Look for basmati rice at yoursupermarket,specialtyfoodmarket,orIndiangrocerystore.Pregroundrice,alsocalledricerava,idlirava,orricesooji,isavailableatmanyIndiangroceries.Itissometimessoldas“creamofrice,”butdonotsubstitutecreamofricecerealforpregroundrice.

Regularrice flourandsweet (glutinous)rice flour.Therearenumerous riceflours available. The rice flour found atmost specialty and health food storestends tobegritty, and it frequently cooksup far too firm formostdumplings.Asianricefloursarefinerandmorepowdery,andtheycomeintwobasictypes,regular and sweet (or glutinous). Thai and Vietnamese flours are groundespeciallyfineandcan,ingeneral,beusedwheneverriceflouriscalledforinarecipe.TheyareavailableatmanyChineseandThaigroceriesandatlargeAsianfoodmarkets.

Rinsingyourrice:Mostricedumplingrecipesask thatyougive theuncooked

riceagentle (andoften repeated) rinse towashawaysome,butnot all,of thepowdery starch on its surfaces. To give your rice one full rinse, place it in abowl,pourinenoughcoolwatertocoverthegrainsgenerously,andthenswirlthericearoundforafewseconds.Useonehandtoholdbackthegrainsasyoutiltthebowlandpouroutthestarchywater.

SALT: Salt is used not only to season savory dumpling dishes but also as aningredient to emphasize the sweetness of dessert dumplings. We recommendusing sea salt for all general cooking needs. Pinch for pinch, sea salt has adeeper, more complex flavor, as well as vital nutrients not found in heavilyprocessedtablesalts.Koshersaltisaneconomicalalternativewhensaltinglargepotsofwater.

SUGARS,SYRUPS,ANDHONEY:Aswithsalt, toomuchsugarcanflattenout flavorsor stun thepalate.White sugar is an all-purpose sugar that is usedoccasionallyinthefollowingrecipes,butit’sthefullerandmorebuttery-tastingunrefinedsugarsusedtraditionallyinsomanydumplingsthatfigureprominentlyin thisbook.Unrefinedcaneandpalmsugarsareused inmany Indian,Asian,andMexicandumplingrecipes.Thesesugars,withalltheirdeliciousundertones,add as much flavor as sweetness. Honey—a sweetener that varies widely incolor, consistency, and flavor—also adds a unique sweetness to certaindumplings.

Palmsugar.Palmsugar,madefromthesapofthedatepalmtree,canbefoundin solidbars,disks,or cones,or in jars as a soft, grainypaste.Blocksofhardpalmsugarshouldbechoppedandcrushedfine,whilesoftpalmsugarcaneasilybescoopedout.Thetasteofthissugarissoinvitingandappetizingthatitishardto findapropersubstitute. Ifyoucan’t findpalmsugar,however,youcanusepanelaorjaggeryinstead.

Panelaandjaggery.Bothpanelaandjaggeryareunrefinedcanesugarssoldinbarsordisks,althoughjaggeryissometimessoldinpebble-sizedchunks.PanelaisproducedinSouthAmericaandMexico(whereit iscalledpiloncillo)and isused to sweetenmanydessertsandbeverages.Asimilarhardsugar, jaggery isusedinabundanceinahostofIndiansweets.Likeotherbarsugars,thesemustbechoppedandcrushedinordertodissolveormeltintootheringredients.

Brownslabsugar.This semirefined cane sugar fromChina is sold in long2-ounceslabsthatcanbebrokenoffconvenientlyasneeded.

Muscovado sugar. This soft brown sugar, also known as Barbados sugar, ismadefromnaturalsugarcanejuiceandisflavoredwithmolasses.Ithasadeep,richcaneflavorandawarm,vibranttexturefarsuperiortothatofregularbrownsugar. It is available in light and dark varieties at specialty foodmarkets andhealthfoodstores.Lightmuscovadosugariswhatweusemostoftenandithasbecomeourstaplesugarinanyrecipethatcallsforbrownsugar.

Turbinado andDemerara sugar. These two unrefined granulated sugars canalso be substituted in recipes calling for brown sugar. Because of theirgranulatedtexture,theyareespeciallyusefulincoatingpuddingbasins.

Golden syrup and treacle. These extremely sticky syrups from England aresold in containers that look like small paint cans (squeeze bottles are aroundtoo).Goldensyrup,sometimescalledlighttreacle,hasacleancarameltastethatis key to a number of steamed puddings.Treacle ismuch darker in color andflavorandcanbeusedasasubstituteformolasses.

Molasses. Cane molasses is a by-product of sugar making and has a bitter,slightlymedicinaltaste.Molassesisnotterriblysweet,assomepeoplebelieve,since much of the sugar has already been extracted.Molasses is used to addcolor,depthofflavor,andstickinesstodumplingdoughandbatters.

Honey.Weuserawhoney.Ittastesbetter,andhasamuchlowerwatercontent,thanmorerefinedhoneys.It’sthickandmilkylooking,tastyandtangy,andgoodstraightoffthespoon.

TOMATOES: Tomatoes flavor a good number of soups, stews, and saucesserved with dumplings. We use plum tomatoes whenever possible. They’resweet,meaty,anddelicate.

Topeelandseedatomato:Thisquickandeasytechniqueisthesurestwayofpeelingtomatoeswithouthavingtoblanchtheminboilingwater:Cutthetomatointoquarters lengthwiseandplace themskinsidedownonyourcuttingboard,thenrunasharpparingknifejustabovetheskinofthetomato,separatingfleshfromskin.Give the tomatosectionsagentlesqueezeoverabowl toget ridofmostoftheseedsandthejellythatholdstheminplace.

WATER:Peoplecareaboutthetasteorqualityoftheirdrinkingwaterbutpaylessattention to its flavor andaromawhencooking.Becauseeveryoneof thedishes in thisbook involvesawet-heat cookingmethod,water is the foremostingredientinthisbook.Manydumplingsareservedinsoupsandbroths,wherewater is the essential ingredient. Water is used to turn flours into dumplingdoughs and batters.We also rely onwater in smaller but essential ways, likeusingit tohelpsealtheedgesofadumpling,tothinoutaclumpysauce,ortosoakdriedcornorbeans.

Choosing your water. Water can have a unique connection to a place,depending on its source. It can have a high or lowmineral content, it can beslightlysaltyorslightlyacidic,and itcan taste freshorstaleorevenartificial.Whilewritingthisbook,wetestedafewrecipesinafarmhousewherethewaterwas supplied by a well surrounded by patches of onion grass. This gave thewater a pronounced silveryonion flavor, especially in the summer.Thiswaterwasdelicious in chicken soups, vegetablebroths, andother recipes that calledforonions,butitoverwhelmedtheverydelicatericeflavorsintheThaidessertdumplings we made. Whatever water you choose for cooking—whether tapwater, filtered, distilled, or springwater—we encourage you to appreciate thefull flavor of the water you are using and the impact it could have on theresultingdumpling.

Usinganonchlorinatedwatersuchasdistilledorspringwater.Whilethereare anumberofpossible contaminants in tapwater, chlorinehas the strongesttaste, the most obvious odor, and an undeniably harmful impact on cooking.Chlorine-freewaterisespeciallyimportantwhenmakinganydumplingbatterordoughthatdependsonfermentation.Chlorineintapwatercankillorweakenthe“good”bacteriaandyeast.Mostfilteringjugsorfaucetattachmentscanremove

afairamountofchlorine,oryoucanletyourwaterstandoutinawide-mouthedpitcher or bowl overnight, allowing the chlorine to dissipate. Chloramine, achlorine/ammoniaproductusedinsomewatersystems,takesmuchmoreeffortto filter out. To ensure successwith recipes that require fermentation,we usedistilledwaterorspringwater.Becauseofthesubtleflavorsofcoconut,wealsousedistilledorspringwaterwhenmakingfreshcoconutmilkordilutingcannedcoconutmilk.

Replenishingwithboilingwater.Whensteamingdumplingswithlongcookingtimes,havereadyasmallpotofwateryoucanbringtoaboilquickly.Refillingwater levelswhiledumplingscookcanbedoneseamlesslyonlyifyoupour inwater that is already boiling. Adding room-temperature or cold water willweaken, if not halt, the steaming process for at least a fewminutes, and thiscouldnegativelyaffectthetextureofyourdumplings.

Making the most of your cooking water. Many dumplings are cooked ingenerous amounts of boiling or simmering water that’s been salted lightly togenerously.Aladlefulofgoodstarchycookingliquidisagoodwaytopreventabowlorplatefullofdumplingsfromsticking.Starchycookingliquidcanalsobeusedtoimprovethebodyofasauce.

WHEAT:Every typeofflourormeal thatcanbemadefromwheat isused tomakedumplings.Wheat-baseddumplings aremost popular inEurope,Russia,theUnitedStates, andparts ofAsia.Where there is bread andpasta, youwillinevitablyfindanimpressivearrayofdumplingsmadefromwheat.

Whole wheat flour. Whole wheat flour is used in a number of traditionalsteamed dumplings. Made from grinding the entire wheat kernel (bran,endosperm,andgerm),wholewheatflourretainsnutrientsthatarelostinwhiteflour.Withstuffeddumplingslikethemomo(April),wholewheatflourisoftenmixedwith a little white flour for a stronger, more elastic dough that can berolledoutthinlywithoutbreaking.Grahamflourissimilartowholewheatflour,but it’s processed differently, giving it a slightly gritty texture. Store wholewheatandotherwholegrainfloursintherefrigeratortopreventtheirnaturaloilsfromspoiling.

Semolinaflour.SemolinaisperhapsbestknownforitsuseindriedItalianpasta,but it is also a popular dumpling ingredient in parts of India andCentral andEasternEurope. In India it is called sooji or rava and is sometimes toasted toenhance its flavor. In Europe it is used as a heartier alternative to all-purposeflour.Made fromdurumwheat, semolina flour is coarser and cooksup firmerthanall-purposeflour.Itissometimescalledfarina,butdonotconfusethiswithcreamofwheat,whichisapartiallycookedanddriedwheatproduct.

Pastaflour.Forfreshpasta, Italiansuseaflourknownas“00”flour. It is lessglutinous than all-purpose flour and cooks up softer and with just the rightamountofchew.Ifyoucanfindthisflouratyourmarket,werecommendusingitforallthedumplingsmadewithpastadough.Ifnot,youcanmakeyourown“softer”flourbyblendinghalfall-purposeflourwithhalfcakeflour.

Unbleachedall-purposeflour.Agoodportionofthedumplingsinthisbookaremadewith all-purpose flour, including everything from the tiny spaetzle to allkinds of steamedbreads and puddings. For all of these recipes, aswell as foreverydayuse,westronglyrecommendunbleachedall-purposeflour.Unbleachedflourhasamorenaturaloff-whitecolor,atruerflavor,andit isjustahealthierproduct. It is easyenough to find inmost supermarkets, and there is reallynoneedtouseanythingelse.

YOGURT AND SOUR CREAM: The rich flavors of Russian, EasternEuropean and Middle Eastern dumplings are frequently balanced with sour,zingy,andcreamydairytoppings.Afineandaffordabledelicacy,strainedyogurtisextra-thickandclingsreallywell totheedgesandbodiesofdumplings.Youcanfindstrainedyogurt (alsocalledGreekyogurt)atsomeshops,but it’salsoeasytomakeinyourownkitchen.Justbesuretobuyplainyogurtthatisfreeofemulsifiers,orthestrainingprocesswillbepointless.

Tomakestrainedyogurt:Lineasievewithacoupleoflayersofcheeseclothandbalanceitacrossadeepbowlsothatthewheycanbecollectedasitdrainsoutofthe yogurt. Scoop the yogurt into the lined strainer, cover loosely with anyoverhangingendsofcheesecloth,andletsitintherefrigeratorfor6to8hours.Theyogurtwill losevolumeasitdrains,soifarecipeneeds1cupofstrainedyogurt,startwith1½to2cupsofunstrainedyogurt.Thistechniqueisalsoused

todraincottagecheese,farmercheese,andricotta.

GlossaryofEquipment

Everydumplinginthebookwastestedagainandagaininourkitchensathome.Aswetestedrecipes,wecollectedaridiculouslylargenumberofkitchentoolsdedicated to dumplingmaking, most of which are not found in your averagekitchensupplystore,unlessyouhappentoliveintheparticularregionwhereoneis used. Our fundamental goal, however, was to create each dumplingauthentically,withequipmentyouprobablyownalreadyorthatiseasyenoughtofindandinexpensiveenoughtobuy.

With the exception of one recipe, the Puttu Kadala (May), all thedumplingsinthisbookweresimmeredorboiledinanaveragepotorsteamedinastandardsteamerpot. Inotherwords,wedon’tuse tamalesteamers,bamboosteamers,ricecookers,slowcookers,woks,orpressurecookers,butinsteadrelyonjustafewsimpleandcommonpiecesofequipment.

There are some tools, however, that worked best for certain dumplings,such as an idli tree,which features distinctive round depressions riddledwithtinyholesthatletsteampassthroughthedumplingsduringcooking.Wealsouseaspaetzlemaker,therotarytype,foritssheerquicknessandeasewhenmakingspaetzle.Attimeswealteredthetraditionalshapeofadumplingtofitastandardpieceofequipment.Somecakesthatarecustomarilysteamedintosquaresweremade roundsimplybecause roundcakepans fitmoreeasily into standard-sizepots.Weadjustedthebatchsizesofcertaindumplingsthataretypicallymadeincopiousamounts.

Wegenerallyavoidedtoolsthathaveonlyasinglepurpose(suchascoconutscrapers or corn cutters) or tools that are hard to clean or handle, because

inevitablywewillneveruse themmore thanonceor twice.Withall that said,whilethereisnothingmorehelpfulinthekitchenthananextrapairofhands,thefollowingtoolsareabighelptoo.

BAKING CUPS: Some dumplings are steamed into muffin-or cupcake-sizecakes.Fortheserecipesyouwillneedindividualbakingcups.Youcanlinethesecupswithpaperbakingcupliners,justasyouwouldforamuffinpan.Individualbakingcupsareavailableatmanykitchensupplystoresandareusuallymadeofmetalorsilicone.

BAKINGSHEET (TRAY): A 10 × 15-inch baking sheet lined with a cleankitchentowelmaynotseemlikeanecessarydumplingtool,butitcanmeanthedifference between a batch of successful dumplings and a mound of littledisappointments.Filleddumplingsrequiremultiplesteps,andatraykeepsthingsorganizedduringtheprocess.Arrangingdumplingsinneatrowsonatrayisthebestwaytokeepthemseparatedandeasytocount.Atrayalsomakesiteasiertomove dumplings fromwork surface to refrigerator to pot.A tray is necessarywhenfreezingdumplingsbecausetheyhavetobespacedapartonaflatsurfaceuntilfrozensolid.

BOXGRATER:Asturdyboxgraterisamustwhenmakingdumplingbattersordoughsthatcallforgratedrawpotato,cassava,carrot,orplantain.Becausemanyfillingsdependonfinelychoppedingredients,aboxgraterisalsoahandywayto speed up—or replace in some cases—chopping. The finer, sharply toothedholesofthegraterareeffectivewhenadumplingrecipecallsforgratednutmegorgingerorhardcheesessuchasParmesan.

BRUSH:Ifyoudon’twanttouseyourfingertips,asmallcleanpaintbrushcanbeusedtobrushdoughroundsorsquareswithabitofwaterjustbeforefilling,folding, and sealing.Dampening the dough canmake the dumplings easier toseal.

DIPPINGBOWLS:Smalldippingorcondimentbowlsareusedwhensteamingcertaindumplings thatare typicallysmall, flat,and round.Sometimes theyarethemoldofchoice,aswiththeKhanomThuay(April),whileatothertimesthey

substitute for specialmolds thatmaybe impractical tobuy fora single recipe.These dipping bowls should be nomore than 2 incheswide and about 1 inchdeep. They can be found at many Asian markets that sell tableware or atdepartmentstores.

ELECTRICSPICEORCOFFEEGRINDER:Ofalltheappliancestoemergeas indispensablewhenmakingdumplings, this one surprisedus.Not only is aspice grinder useful when handling familiar tasks such as grinding up spices,chunksofdrybread(intosuperfinecrumbs),andseedsandnuts,butitcanalsobeusedtogrindwholegrainsofriceintoacoarseorfinemeal,mimickingthetextureofwet-groundrice,andtomillcoarsemealsintoafinerproduct.Whilegrinding hard grains like rice can eventually wear down the blades, theincomparablequalitiesofdumplingsmadefromfreshlygroundriceareworthit.We have used ours throughout the testing of this book and have had noproblems. They need to be unplugged and cleaned well with a damp towelbetweeningredients.Havingtwoonhand,oneforspicesandoneforstarches,isideal.

FOODPROCESSOR:Wedon’tuse a foodprocessoroften,butwhenwedoit’sessential.Thereisnofaster,moreconvenientwaytogrindsoakedcornformasaorbeansforMoyinMoyin(August).Itmakesterrificbreadcrumbsinmereminutes and grinds vegetables into pulpy sauces. Occasionally we also grindchoppedmeatinafoodprocessortogetafiner-texturedfilling.

GNOCCHIBOARD:Agnocchiboardisasmallpaddletexturedwithstraight,deep grooves. When you roll the soft dough pieces down the length of thepaddle, you effortlesslywork ridges into the dough. This ribbed texture givessauces a surface that is easier to cling to.A similar effect canbemanagedbyusingthetinesofaforktoindentthedoughwithsubtlegrooves.

KITCHENSTRING:All-cottonkitchenstringisusedtotieclothstopuddingbasins,cinchupcloth-wrappeddumplings,andsecureleaf-wrappeddumplings.Someleaf-wrappeddumplingsmayhaveatendencytounfoldifyoudonotkeepa tightgripon themwhile tying.Youcanusea rubberband toholddown theleaveswhiletyingyourdumpling,butbesuretoremoveitbeforecooking.

KITCHEN TONGS: With tongs you can move leaf-or cloth-wrappeddumplings,nomatterhowheavyoroddlyshaped,rightoutofboilingwaterandonto a towel without any trouble. Fishing out bones, pieces of meat, orvegetablesfromabigpotofsoupisacinchwithapairoftongs.Youcanpluckoutdumplings,onebyone,fromahotsteamerbasket.Moredelicatedumplings,especiallyfilledones,cantearorbepiercedeasily,soworkwithtongsthathaveroundedends.

KITCHENTOWELS:Asupplyofclean,thinkitchentowelsisalwaysusefulwhenmakingdumplings.Theycanbeusedtolinetraysorsqueezeexcessliquidfromingredientslikegratedpotatoesorwiltedgreens.Afoldedtowelisasafeplacetoresthot,drippingwetsteamerbaskets,puddingbasins,andcloth-orleaf-wrappeddumplings.Andneedlesstosay,theyhelpwithcleanup.

LEAVESANDCORNHUSKS: Leaves and husks play a significant role indumplingmaking.Theyprovidenotonlystructurebutflavorandfragrancetoanenormous collection of dumplings throughout Mexico, Central and SouthAmerica,Asia,andthePacificIslands.Theyholdtogetherbatters,gratedroots,andgrainsthatdon’tcontainbinderslikeglutenoreggs.When,forexample,athick smear of corn masa is wrapped snugly in a husk, it’s provided withstructureandshape longbefore thebattercooks intoasoliddumpling.Leavesandhuskshavebeenusedincookingforthousandsofyears,andwhilethereareleaf-wrappeddumplingsthataremind-bogglingfeatsofarchitecture,we’vekeptourfoldsprettysimpleandworry-free.

Corn husks. Fresh husks pulled right off the cob are convenient and lightlyscentedwrappers forbattersconsistingentirelyorpartlyof freshcornkernels.Freshhusksfromsweetcornaretypicallynarrowandnottoolong,soyouwillneed to overlap them in order to accommodate the batter or filling you’reworkingwith.Driedhusks,however,arelarger,becausetheyaregenerallymadefromthehusksofsizablefieldcorn,notsweetcorn.Theycanbefound,usuallyfoldedup,inmanymarkets,especiallyMexican,Caribbean,orSouthAmericangroceries,specialtyfoodmarkets,andwell-stockedsupermarkets.

Preparing dried cornhusks: Count out the number of husks needed for yourrecipe.Unfoldthemjustenoughtocountoutthenumberthatyouneed,tryingto

avoidtearingorcrackingthemapart.Fillapotlargeenoughtofit thehusksatleasthalfwaywithwater andbring to aboil overhighheat.Remove from theheat.Sinkthehusks in thehotwater,cover,andsoakfor1 to2hours, turningoccasionally for amore even soak.Drain, unfold, rinse each husk under coolrunningwater, andwipedry.Keepcoveredunder adamp toweluntil ready touse.

Bananaleaves.Darkincolor,yetsurprisinglylightinflavor,bananaleavesareadeliciouseverydayculinary staple inmanycornersof theworld.Difficult tofind fresh, they are likelier to be found frozen at Asian,Mexican, and SouthAmericanmarkets.Dependingontheageoftheleavesorhowmanytimestheymayhavethawedandrefrozenintheirpacksduringshipment,theycanbecomebrittleandteareasily.Bepatientifthishappensandpreparesomeextraleavestopatchupanygaps.

Preparing frozen banana leaves: Let the banana leaves thaw at roomtemperature. Cut the leaves to the required size until you have enough leafsquares(orrectangles)foryourrecipe.Ifyourleavesaresoftandpliable,rinsethemwell,wipedrygently,andkeepcoveredunderadamptoweluntilreadytouse.Iftheyarebrittleandtendtotear,youwillneedtoblanchthem.Fillapotlargeenoughtofitalloftheleafsquaresatleasthalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Sinkthesquaresintothehotwater(keepingthebendsandfoldstoaminimum),cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor20minutes.Drain,rinseeachsquareundercoolrunningwater,andwipedry.Keepcoveredunderadamptoweluntilreadytouse.

Bambooleaves.These long,narrowleaves,used in thisbookforwrappingup

ChineseandVietnamesericedumplings,areavailableatChinesemarketsyear-round, but especially around May and June, when these dumplings arecelebrated.Bambooleavesaddamildtea-smokedflavortotherice.

Preparing dried bamboo leaves: Count out the number of leaves needed foryourrecipe.Trimofftheirwoodystemends.Fillapotlargeenoughtofitalloftheleavesatleasthalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheat.Sinkthebambooleavesintothehotwater,cover,andsoakfor1to2hours,turningthemoccasionallyforamoreevensoak.Drain,rinseeachleafundercoolrunningwater,andwipedry.Keepcoveredunderadamptoweluntilreadytouse.

Lotusleaves.Lotusleavesarethelargeumbrella-shapedleavesofthewaterlilyplant.Whendried andused in cooking, they impart amossy, tealike flavor tofood.Theleavesaresolddriedandfoldedinhalf,theirshaperesemblingafan.They are quite brittlewhen dry, but they soften and strengthen quickly in hotwater.Lotusleavescanbefoundatwell-stockedChinesemarkets.

Preparinglotusleaves:Countoutthenumberofleavesneededforyourrecipe.Fill apot largeenough to fit at leasthalf the lengthof the leavesabout three-quarters fullwithwater and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from theheat. Slide the lotus leaves into the hotwater. As the leaves start towilt andsoften,pushthementirelyintothewater,allowingthemtofoldoverthemselves.Coverandsoakfor30minutes,turningthemoccasionallyforamoreevensoak.Drain,rinseeachleafundercoolrunningwater,andwipedry.Cutoffthewoody

stemendandopenupthe leaf, revealingitsroundshape.Cuteachleaf inhalfalongitscentralveinandkeepcoveredunderadamptoweluntilreadytouse.

METALRULER:Dumplingsmadeoutofsquaresofdougharemucheasiertofillandfoldwhenthesquareisofthepropersize.Havingametalrulernearbymakes cutting strips, squares, rectangles, or diamonds of dough more exact.Leaves—especially banana leaves that need to be cut to size—and lengths ofstringcanbemeasuredaccuratelyifyouhavearulerhandy.

MORTARANDPESTLE:Weuse amortar and pestlewhen recipes call forquantitiesof spice that are too small tobeground in an electric spicegrinder.Crushingamoundofspicesontopofahardflatsurfacewithameatpounder,aflat-bottomedbottle,orthebottomofaheavypotalsodoesagoodjob.

MUSLIN: It’s incredible justhowmuchofan impact thissimple, inexpensivetool,withallofitsmyriadofuses,hashadonus.Wekeepacollectionofsizesonhand,butastandard24-inchsquareistheonlyoneusedinthebook.(Whencutting a new piece of muslin, add an additional 4 inches per measurement,becausetheclothwillshrinkpermanentlyonceitgetswet.)Thiscutofmuslincanbeusedasapuddingbag,acoverforthepuddingbasin,awrapforanumberofboiledorsteameddumplings,areliablelinerforsteamerbaskets,aclothforsqueezingexcessliquidoutofgratedpotatoesorcarrots,oralinerforsievesorcolanders,capableoffilteringouteventhefinestsedimentfrombroths.Muslincloth should not be used as a liner for a steamer basket unless the recipespecificallycallsforit,however,becausesomedumplingswillsticktothecloth.You can buyunbleachedmuslin at somekitchen supply stores, arts and craftsstores, and fabric stores.After eachuse, simply rinse it out inhotwater, let itdry,andkeepittuckedawayuntilnexttime.

PARCHMENTPAPER:Parchmentpapercanbeusedtowrapdumplingswhen

leavesorcornhusksaretootatteredorbrittle.Asquareofthispaper,linedwiththeimperfect leaf,willallowallof the leaf’sflavors tosinkinto thedumplingwhilekeepingitsecurelywrappedandcontained.Aroundofparchmentpaperisalsoused in thePuddingBasinSetup (PUDDINGBASINSETUP) toseparatethemoistbatterfromtheclothcoveringthebasin.

POTATORICER: The easiestway to pulverize cooked potatoes into a light,evenlytexturedpotato“snow,”withoutoverworkingthem,iswithapotatoricer.Trytoworkwiththepotatoeswhiletheyarestillquitewarm,andthereforelessdense,astheywillstiffenastheycool.Attemptingtogetpotatoesintoacrumbthat finewithapotatomasherwill almostalwaysmake theconsistencyof thepotatoespastylongbeforethelastlumpcanbemashedout.Afoodmillcanbeused to the same effect as a ricer. A box gratermakes a good substitute in apinch.Placethegrateronaflatsurfaceanduseyourhandstopressthechunksofpotatothroughthesmallerholes.It’squitemessy,butitstillcreatesafluffier,moreairypotatomealthanahandheldpotatomasher.

PUDDINGBASIN: Once you own a pudding basin, you can try all sorts ofpuddings, steamed breads, and cakes. A traditional pudding basin is a dome-shapedstonewarebowlwithaflatbaseandathickliparoundtherim.Thislipmakesitpossibletosecureaclothacrossthetopofthebasinwithjustapieceofstringtiedaroundtherim.Agoodpuddingbasincandoubleasamixingbowlfor just about anything and is also an excellent bowl for yeast doughs orfermentedbatters,becausetheheavystonewareretainswarmth.

ROASTING PAN FITTED WITH A RACK: To cook a large batch ofdumplings,orfordumplingsthataretoolongtofit intoyoursteamerpot, it ishelpfultohaveacoveredroastingpanthatcansitovertwoburners.Theseoftencomewithaspeciallyfittedrackthatcandoubleasasteamerrack,oryoucanplacetwoofyourownracksintothepantocreateasuitableplatform.

ROUND COOKIE CUTTERS: Different people roll out dough rounds indifferent ways.Many dumplingmakers prefer to pinch or cut the dough intosmall,evenpiecesandthenrollouteachpiece.Othersprefertorolloutalongsheetofdough,placespoonfulsoffillingononeside,foldovertheotherside,andstampoutroundswithapress.Ifyouarenotskilledateitheroneofthose

methods, we found that the best way to achieve satisfyingly flat and evenlyshapeddoughroundswastorolloutamanageableportionofthedoughandthencutoutroundsusingacookiecutter.Roundcookiecuttersareavailable,usuallyasaset,atanykitchensupplystore.Cutterswithascallopededge,oftenusedformakingbiscuits,cangiveyourdumplingsamoredecoratedlook.

SCISSORS: With scissors you can safely trim leaves and corn husks, cutkitchenstring,andtrimsheetsofmuslinorcheeseclothtosize.Cuttingthestringoffsteamedpuddings,tamales,orothertied-updumplingsisamuchtidiertaskwithscissorsthanwithaknife.

SLOTTEDSPOON:Awide slotted spoonwitha longhandle is thebest andsafestwaytoremovedelicatedumplings—toodelicatetodumpintoacolander—fromasimmeringpotofwaterorbroth.Also,ifyouarecookingdumplingsinbatches,youdon’twanttodrainoffallthesimmeringwaterthroughacolander.Youneedthatwaterfortheremainingbatches.

STEAMERPOT(ORMULTICOOKPOT):Mostof thesteameddumplingsinthisbookwerecookedinan8-quartstainless-steelsteamerpotwithabasketinsert about 3 inches deep. It has a heavy bottom that can withstand longcookingtimes.Ofcourse,youmayalreadyownasteamerpotofadifferentsizeor,ifshoppingforasteamerpot,feelthatadifferentsizeisabetterfitforyourkitchen.Inthatcase,adjust thedumplingcountsweprovidetofityourbasket.Without the basket, the steamer pot can be used like any other large pot forcooking other types of dumplings, soups, and broths. The steamer basket canalsodoubleasacolander.

Multicookpotscontainbothasteamerbasketinsertandapastainsert.Thepasta insert is amuch deeper basket that allows pastas and dumplings to boilfreely in what is basically the entirety of the pot.We use a slotted spoon toremovedumplingsfromboilingwater,butifyouhaveapastainsert,itcanalsobeused to removeanddraindumplings.Thepasta insert canalsodouble as asteamer if there is enough space between the bottom of the insert and thesimmeringwater.Alternatively,youcanplacearackinthepastainsert,creatinga platform for your dumplings. This setup works best with leaf-and cloth-wrappeddumplings.

If you have more than enough pots but don’t have one specifically for

steaming, all sorts of steamer basket inserts are sold separately. Be certain,beforebuyingone,thatitwillfitproperlyintoyourselectedpot.

Thefollowingpotsandpansareessentialwhenmakingawiderangeofdumplings:1-to2-quartsaucepanwithcover4-to6-quartpotwithcover6-to8-quartpotwithcover8-to10-quartpotwithcover(thiscanbeyoursteamerpot)8-inch-wideskilletwithcover*10-inch-wideskilletwithcover*

The following pots and pans are good to have on hand but are notessential:3-to4-quartsaucepan10-to12-quartpotwithcover14-quartroastingpanwithcover

STEAMERRACKSANDCOLLAPSIBLESTEAMERS:Insertingasteamerrackintoapotcreatesaplatformforcloth-andleaf-wrappeddumplings,aswellasforcakepansandothermolds.Thesteamerracksweuselooklike,andcandoublefor,roundcoolingracks.Rackscanrangeinsize,shape,andheight,butyou’llneedone that isat least2 incheshigh(tositabove1½inchesofwater)andlargeenoughtositcomfortablyinyourpotwithoutslidingaroundtoomuch.Some racks have legs that fold up, both for storage purposes and for a quickchangeintoasteamerplate.Collapsiblesteamers(madeofoverlappingpetalsofperforatedmetal)oftenstandalittlelowerthan2inchesbutworkfineforquick-to-cookdumplingsor ifyou replenish theboilingwaterduring longercookingtimes.Becausetheyarecollapsible,theycanfitintomanydifferentpotsorpans.Ifyouremovethecenterpostonthesesteamers(mostcanbeunscrewed),theycanaccommodatecakepansorsingle,largerdumplings.

WOODENDOWELROLLINGPIN: Dowel rolling pins (or French rollingpins)areourfirstchoiceforrollingouteverytypeofdumplingdough.Adowelrollingpinissimplyarollingpinwithoutdistincthandles,thoughsomeversionsdo have tapered ends. Using a rolling pin with handles is more awkward

comparedwiththedirectpressureandmaneuverabilityachievablewithadowelpin.Whenyou’renotcaughtupwithgrippinghandlebarsandtryingtoget thepin to roll consistently, you are able to feel every lump or unevenness in thedough.Also,thecylinder,orbody,ofarollingpinwithhandleshasatendencyto formdeepgroovesor lineswith its edges,which canbe troublesomewhenrollingoutreallythinsheetsofdough.

Therearethreetools,usedoftenindumplingmaking,thatwechosenottorelyon—apastamaker,anelectricwet-grinder,andspecialdumplingmolds.Whilepastamakersmakeiteasytorolldoughoutthin,learninghowtorolloutsheetsofdoughbyhandisanindispensableskillwedidn’twanttostepover.Electricwet-grinders are extremely heavy appliances. Even home versions—about thesize of a large ice cream maker—weigh upward of 25 pounds. These arepowerfulmachinesthatmakeshortworkofnixtamalizingcorn,soakingriceandbeans,andsoon,andcanproducehigh-qualitypastes.Ifyouwanttoproducealarge amount of fresh, wet-ground pastes regularly, they are a worthwhileinvestment,butafoodprocessororaspiceorcoffeegrinderfillsinwellenough.Dumplingmoldsandpresseswerecreatedtomaketheworkofstuffingorfillingdumplings easier. They can do a pretty good job, but like any tool they takepractice to learnhowtousewell,andwepreferredspendingour timelearninghowtofillandfoldthedumplingsbyhand.

Tips

As we tested hundreds of dumplings, we kept a written log of observations,hard-earned lessons, fantastic successes, and mysterious quandaries. Thefollowingrevelationsandtechniquesaretheresult.LEARN THROUGH EXAMPLE: Working alongside someone withexperience is thebestway to learn. If youknowsomeonewhoalreadymakesyourfavoritedumpling,takethetimetocookupabatchtogether.

KNOW WHEN NOT TO SUBSTITUTE: While there are many, manyversionsofwontons,therearecertaindefinitiveingredientsandtechniquesthatmakeawontonawonton.Altera recipe toomuchandyou’remakinganothertypeofdumplingentirely,notavariation.Weencourageyoutoexperimentandadjust recipes to your tastes or diet, but pay attention to those ingredients ortechniquesthattrulyimpartanessentialflavor,texture,oraroma.

Ifyou’reavegetarianandneedtotakethemeatoutofarecipe,trytoworkwith the most appropriate alternative. When swapping out meat for otheringredientsinfillings,soups,stews,sauces,andsoon,wefoundcertainoptionsworkbetterthanothers.Followingisalistofourfavorites:

For beef: seitan, mushrooms (cremini, shiitake, portobello, porcini), lentils,mungbeans, tempeh, tofu,vegetarian“groundbeef” (found in the frozen foodsectionofhealthfoodstoresandmostsupermarkets),whole-grainbreadcrumbs,eggplant,walnuts

For pork: seitan, tofu, white beans, mushrooms (porcini, shiitake, oyster,chanterelle),breadcrumbs,eggplant,cashews,pumpkinseeds

For chicken: seitan, mushrooms (maitake, oyster, shiitake, chanterelle),chickpeas, white beans, bread crumbs, brown rice, artichoke hearts, eggplant,bambooshoots,walnuts,peanuts,cashews,pinenuts

Forseafood:mushrooms(oyster,shiitake,maitake),tofu,afewsmallpiecesofkelp

Forlard:nonhydrogenatedvegetableshortening,oil

Forsuet:nonhydrogenatedvegetableshortening,butter

If you are a vegan, you are probably already familiar with the array ofsubstitutesavailableformilk,cheese,eggs,honey,meat,andanimalfats.Asyouknow, not all animal products can be replaced, but you can apply yourexperience with making cakes, pancakes, breads, and other foods to mostdumplingrecipeswithgoodresults.Whenwetailoredrecipesforveganfriends,wefoundthatcertainsubstituteswereoftenoverlooked:freshorcannedcoconutmilk, which you can sweeten with sugar or sour with lemon juice, is anunderutilized substitute formilk or cream, and agave is a light, slightly fruitysyrupwithout the stronger flavorsof honey, the concentrated flavorsofmaplesyrup,orthetoo-subtlesweetnessofbrownricesyrup.

TIME:Beforestartinganyrecipe,readitthroughandconsiderhowmuchtimeisinvolved.Beawareofwhatthereciperequiresintermsofkneading,cooking,andsoon,andtakeintoaccounthowlongthosestepswilltake.Settimeasideforstepssuchasdoughrestingorfermentation.Ifithelps,seewhichstepscanbedonehoursorevendaysinadvance.

If youhavenotmade a particular dumpling recipebefore and it involvesfolding or wrapping, be sure to go over the instructions and the appropriateillustrations (see JELLY-ROLL SHAPE TO BAMBOO-LEAF FOLD). Anumber of dumplings require folding and assembly.All goes quickly if things

areorganized.Beawareofhowdumplingsareserved.Somearepot-to-mouthdumplings,

such as Jiao Zi (February) and Mandu (April), which must be servedimmediatelyaftercooking.Otherdumplingscanrestorcoolorbeeatenthenextday.

ORGANIZATION:Makesureyouhavealltheingredientsandtoolsyouneed,a cleanwork space for assembly, and a place to organize the dumplings oncethey are assembled.Learn toprevent equipment surprisesbymaking sure thatthings fit.For example, yourpuddingbasin,whenplaced in apot,must leaveenoughroomtobecovered.

EXTRADOUGHANDFILLING:Whenmakingfilledandfoldeddumplings,you will often have leftover scraps of dough or spoonfuls of filling. Doughscrapscanbecutupandaddedtosoupsorfrozenforfutureuse.Leftoveryeastdoughcanbesteamedorbakedintobunsortinyflatbreads.Leftoverfillingcanbe added to soups, stirred into fried rice, cooked up and tossed into salads,cookedwith eggs, or turned into a hashwith somepotato.Extramasa can berolledintoballsforMasaBallSoup(April),thinnedoutandturnedintoabatterforcornpancakes,orfrozenforlateruse.

ADJUSTINGWET AND DRY INGREDIENTS FOR BETTER DOUGHANDBATTERS:Variationswill resulteach timeyoumakeabatchofdough,no matter how carefully you follow the recipe. In general, it’s easier toincorporateadditionaldry ingredients intoadough that is toowet than it is toincorporate additionalwet ingredients into a dough that is too dry. All of thewheat-baseddoughrecipes in thisbookhavebeenadjustedso thatyoushouldneverendupwithadoughthatistoodry.Instead,weaskyoutomeasureoutacertain amount of flour, add most of it, and keep the remaining flour handy,usually¼cup.Aftermixing,thedoughwilleitherbejustrightorifanything,alittlewetand sticky.The remaining flour is there tobeworked in, a little at atime,untilthedoughreachesitsproperconsistency.

ROLLINGDOUGH:Forthenewcomer,rollingoutdoughcanbeachallenge.Therearesometips,however,thatcanhelpmakethingseasier.Prepareaworkspace that is larger than the anticipated area of the dough and leave yourself

enough space to work. Roll the dough from the center outward and give thedoughaquarter-turneverysooftentokeepthingseven.Ifthedoughissnappingor shrinking back after you roll it out, let it rest in the half-rolled-out state,coveredwith a slightly damp cloth, until it relaxes further (about 5minutes).Don’toverflouryourworkspacebeforeyouseejusthowthedoughisreacting;youcanalwaysaddmoreasyougo.Finally,takeyourtime.Rememberthatthisisaskillthattakespracticeandthatyouwilldobettereachtime.

CUTTINGDOUGH:Howadumplingisfilledandfoldeddependsonhowthedoughhasbeencut.Herearefourtypicalapproaches:

1. Dividethedoughintotwotofourmanageablepieces,rolloutonepiece,cutout your rounds or squares, fill and fold them, and then repeat with theremainingdough.

2. Rolloutallthedoughintoonelargesheet,cutoutalltheroundsorsquares,thenfillandfoldthem.

3. Pinchoffapieceofdoughlargeenoughtocreateonedumplinground,rollitupintoaball,rollouttheballintoaround,fillandfoldit,andthenrepeatwiththeremainingdough(thistechniquedoesn’tapplytosquares).

4. Rolloutthedoughoraportionofthedough,arrangespoonfulsoffilling—evenlyspacedapart—onthebottomhalfofthesheetofdough,foldthetophalfover,cutoutstuffed roundsorsquareswithacookiecutter,and thenrepeatwiththeremainingdough.

We found that option 1 was the simplest, easiest way to keep thingsorganized and to prevent the dough rounds or squares from drying out. Fordumplingswherethedoughmustbewarmtoberolledoutsuccessfully,weusedoption3.

Cuttingrolled-outdoughintostrips,diamonds,orsquareslargeenoughtofillandfoldisnotdifficult.Rollingoutthedoughintotherequireddimensionsisthekey to success—you can’t cut four 2-inch strips out of a 7-inch square.Arulerguaranteesabetter result andcanalsobeusedas aguide to trimoff theoutermostedgesofthedoughsheetconservativelyforcleanerlines.

PROOFING POT SETUP: The two conditions for the proper proofing ofdough are moderate heat and heavy humidity. For a reliable rise every time,we’ve come up with an easy setup that replicates the dependability of aprofessionalproofbox.

Settinguptheproofingpot:Youwillneedabowlforthedough,asmallrack,andapotlargeenoughtofitboththebowlandtherackwhencovered.Placetherack in the pot alongwith 3 cups of coolwater. Boil an additional 3 cups ofwaterinanotherpotandthenpouritintothecoolwaterinthefirstpot.Placethekneadeddough in thebowlandplace iton the rack. (Becauseof the rack, thebowlshouldnothavedirectcontactwiththewater.Ifforanyreasonthelevelofwaterishigherthantherack,placeaplateortwoontopoftheracktokeepthebowloutofthewater.)Coverthepotandallowthedoughtodoubleinsize,1to1½hours.Thissetupcanberepeatedforasecondriseifneeded.

FREEZINGDUMPLINGS:Ifyouneedtofreezeextradumplings,orwanttomakelargebatchesandfreezethemforlater,thereareafewthingstoconsider.Almost all filled and folded dumplings can be frozen before cooking. Theyshouldbefrozeninasinglelayeronabakingsheetortraylinedwithparchmentpaper. If there is a second layer, separate the layers with another piece ofparchmentpaper.Donotstackmorethantwolayersofdumplingsononetray.Only after the dumplings have frozen solid should they be placed in bags orboxes, sealed tightly,andstored forup to3months.Freshcorn tamales, somewrapped rice dumplings, and steamed buns freeze well after cooking. Again,spacethemapartona tray, let themfreeze, thenstore in tightlysealedbagsorboxesforupto3months.

BOILINGANDSIMMERING:Certaindumplingscookbestatarollingboil,withlotsofroom,whileothersaremoredelicateandneedonlyasimmer.Othersarepoachedataverygentlesimmer. Ifdumplingsarefallingapartas theyarebeingsimmeredorboiled,double-checktherecipetomakesureyou’recookingthemattheproperheat.

TESTDUMPLING: Itcanbehelpful,withmoredelicateorfilleddumplings,todropjustoneintotheboilingorsimmeringwaterorsouptoseehowitcooksupandtoidentifyanyproblemswhilethereisstilltimetomakeadjustments.

TESTINGFORDONENESS: For dumplings that have a long cooking time,such as tamales or steamed puddings, there is usually no concern aboutdoneness.Fordumplingswithaquickcookingtime,thebestwaytocheckisjusttopluckoneoutandtasteit.

SETTINGDUMPLINGS: Just as large cuts of meat need time to rest aftercooking,manydumplings,bothlargeandsmall,alsobenefitfromalittlerestingtime.Somefilleddumplingsmaylookslightlydeflatedafterrestingorcoolingoff a bit, but it’s this slight shift in density thatmakes for amore toothsometexture.Resting can also give a dumpling a slight skin,which is important todumplingsliketheClootie (December)or theServiettenkloss (November).Theeffectisgreaterinlargerdumplingsthaninthesmallonesbutevendumplingslikegnocchi(February)haveabetterbitewhentheyareallowedtorestandfirmup a bit before being finished in a sauce. Some wrapped dumplings such astamalesareeasiertoopenoncetheyareallowedtocoolslightlyandpullawayfromthecornhuskorleaf.

REHEATINGDUMPLINGS: Boiling and steaming are the easiest ways toreheat thedumplings in thisbook. Ingeneral, fordumplings thatareserved insoupsand stews, it isbest to takeout thedumplingsand set themasidewhileyoureheatthesouporstewinapotovermediumheat.Youmayneedtoaddalittlewaterifthesouporstewistoothick.Whenitcomestoasimmer,addthedumplings,cover,andcookuntilthedumplingsareheatedthrough.Stand-alonedumplings,suchastamales,filledorwrappeddumplings,andpuddings,arebestreheatedinasteamerpotorbyusingtheSteamerPlateSetup(seebelow).

Settingupthesteamerplate:Placeasteamerrackinalargewidepotandfillthepotwithenoughwatertoreachjustbelowtherungs.Findasmallheatproofplateorawidebowllargeenoughtoholdthedumplingsbutsmallenoughtofitinthepotandplaceitontopoftherack.Bringthewaterinthepottoaboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Placethedumplingson theplate or in thebowl, cover, and simmeruntil the dumplings are heatedthrough.

HAND-WILTING:Hand-wiltinggreens,herbs,andslicedordicedonionkeepstheir flavors ultra-fresh, and softens them considerably without adding extrawateroroil,an importantconsiderationwhenmakingdumpling fillings.Rinsethegreens(orothersimilaringredient),shakeoffexcesswater,placetheminabowl,andsimplycrumple,scrunch,andsqueezewithyourhanduntilthegreensare soft and limp.Drainor squeezeoff any excess liquid.Hand-wiltedonionshaveasurprisinglydiminishedrawflavorandaresoft, silky,and just right forfillings.

DumplingFoldInstructionsandIllustrations

Werealize that formanypeople theprocessof foldingorwrappingdumplingsbyhandcanbeunfamiliarorevenalittledaunting.Thefollowingillustrations,completewithstep-by-stepinstructions,willtakeyouthrougheachofthefoldsinthebook.Withpractice,you’llmastereventhemostcomplicatedfoldswithconfidenceandease.

JELLY-ROLLSHAPE

DIAMONDINTHESQUAREFOLD

PUDDINGBASINSETUP

FAN-KNOTFOLD

BOWLFOLD

PLEATEDHALF-MOONFOLD

HALF-MOONFOLD

STANDINGHALF-MOONFOLD

BELLY-BUTTONFOLD

BOTTLENECKFOLD

CANDY-WRAPPERSHAPEUSINGACLOTH

PINCHED-TOPFOLD

SINGLE-HUSKTAMALEFOLD

LOTUS-LEAFFOLD

TWO-HUSKTAMALEFOLD1(WIDE)

ENVELOPEFOLD

CANDY-WRAPPERSHAPEUSINGALEAF

PUDDINGBAGFOLD

TWO-HUSKTAMALEFOLD2(LONG)

CURLED-LETTERFOLD

BAMBOO-LEAFFOLD

JELLY-ROLLSHAPE

TheJelly-RollShapeisoftenusedforpastriesandbakedgoods(cinnamonrolls,rugelach,pinwheelcookies),but it isalsousedwithbothsavoryandsweetdumplings.Rollingupyourdumplingintoajellyrollnotonlyensuresthatthefillingisevenlydistributedbutalsoguaranteesthateachsliceofthedumplingwillhaveanattractivepinwheelswirl.

1. Arrange the filling on top of the dough rectangle, leaving a narrow borderalongallsides.

2.Startingononeof the longersides,begin torollup thedough,pinching theendstosealasyougo.

3.Pinchandpressthefaredgeofthedoughalongthelengthofthelogtoseal.

DIAMONDINTHESQUAREFOLD

The Diamond in the Square Fold is a simple package fold that has theadvantageofhavingadouble layerof leaves foramore securehold.ThisfoldcanalsobeusedinsteadoftheEnvelopeFoldwhendealingwithleavesthatarebrittleortorn.

1.Layflat thelargerbanana-leafsquare,smoothsideup(orparchmentpaper),andplacethesmallerbanana-leafsquare,smoothsideup,diagonallyontopofthefirstsquare.

2. Center and arrange the cassava and filling or rice and filling on top of thestackedleaves.

3.Foldoveronecornerofthestackedleaves.

4.Foldovertheoppositecorner.

5. Fold the ends of the leaves over as firmly as you can to create a neat,rectangularpackage.

6.Tiethepackageinacrisscrosspatterntopreventtheleavesfromunfolding.

PUDDINGBASINSETUP

You can make a great variety of steamed puddings flawlessly using thistraditionaltechnique.Thissetupisusedforallthesteamedpuddingsinthisbookand, in fact, isawonderfulway to steamprettymuchanybatterorquickbread.Bycookingyourpuddinginabasin,youreapallthebenefitsofwet-heatcooking(amoist,softtexture)whilestillcreatingalightcrust,asifthepuddingwereoven-baked.

1.Make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing itwith butter andcoatingitwithsugar(andlinethebottomofthebasinwithtoppingifcalledfor).

2.Scoop thebatter into thebasin andgive it agentle shake to level it off. (Ifmaking a pudding with layers, arrange the layers within the basin without

packingthemdown.)

3.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthebatter.

4.Coverthebasinwiththedampmuslinandsecureittightlywithstring.

5.Tieoppositecornersofthemuslinintohandlesoverthetopofthepudding.

FAN-KNOTFOLD

Thissimpleyeteffectivefoldmaximizesthewaysteamcirculatesaroundthedumpling,allowingittocookfasterandmoreevenly.Allyouhavetodoisstackupafewstripsofdough,tiethemintoaknot,andfanouttheedges.Truly,ifyoucantieaknot,youcanmasterthisfold.

1.Stackfourdoughstripsontopofeachother.Thestripsdon’tneedtolineupperfectly.

2.Bendthedoughstripsintoaloop.

3.Pushoneendofthestackedstripsthroughtheloop,creatingasimpleknot.

4.Tuckinanylooseendsandgentlyfanoutornudgeapartthestripsofdough,makingthelayersmoreapparent.

BOWLFOLD

TheBowlFold, thebestway tocenteraportionof filling ina softballofdough, is better suited for dumplings that contain a chunky or crumblyfilling.Byformingthedoughintoasmallbowlandthencuppingitinyourhand,youcaneasily scoop in the fillingwithout its spillingover the sides.Closingthebowlmaytakesomepractice,butitisaskillthatyoucanapplytoagoodnumberofdumplings.

1. Use your thumbs to shape the dough ball into a bowl just large enough tocradlethefilling.

Theshapeddoughbowl

2.Placethefillinginthedoughbowl.Thisstepcanbemadeeasierbycradlingthedoughbowlinyourpalmwhilespooninginthefilling.

3.Closebypushingandpinching theedgesof thedougharoundandover thefillinguntilthefillingissurrounded,pushingoutanyair.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.

4.Rerollintoaball.

PLEATEDHALF-MOONFOLD

ThisfoldresemblestheStandingHalf-MoonFold,butbypleatingonesideofthedoughroundyouendupwithamoreelaborateappearance.

1.Pickupthedoughroundandbegintopleatandpinchoneside.

2.Pulltheroundintoabowlshape.

3.Placethefillinginthedoughbowl.Thisstepcanbemadeeasierbycradlingthedoughbowlinyourpalmwhilespooninginthefilling.

4.Bringtogether theedges,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dabalittle

wateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.

Thefinisheddumpling

HALF-MOONFOLD

There is no quicker or easier fold than the Half-Moon Fold, which isessentiallyadoughroundfoldedinhalfoveramoundoffilling(oradoughsquarefolded inhalf intoa triangle). It’sagreatgo-to fold formost filleddumplingsifatraditionalfoldistooinvolvedortimeconsuming.

1.Centerthefillingontopofthedoughround.

2.Foldtheroundneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair.

3.Pinchtoseal.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.

STANDINGHALF-MOONFOLD

TheStandingHalf-MoonFold,whichisaslightvariationoftheHalf-MoonFold,isusedfordumplingsthatneedtosituprightinasteamerorapan.

1.Centerthefillingontopofthedoughround.

2.Foldtheroundneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair.

3.Pinchtoseal.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.

4.Holdingthedumplingbytheseam,tapthefilledbaseonyourworksurfaceuntilithasaflatbottomandcansituprightwithouttippingover.

Thefinisheddumpling

BELLY-BUTTONFOLD

The Belly-Button Fold is simply a variation on the Half-Moon Fold. Bypullingtogethertheendsofthehalf-moonbelowthebaseofthedumpling,youcreateanaturalcurl—abellybutton—whichsqueezesthefillingintoatight pocket, giving each dumpling a firmer, denser bite than simplypinchingthetwoendstogetheroverthedumpling.

1.Centerthefillingontopofthedoughroundorsquare.

2.Fold theroundneatly inhalf,pushingoutanyair. (Ifusingadoughsquare,

folditdiagonally,overthefilling,intoatriangle.)

3.Pinchtoseal.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.

4. Join and seal the twoends togetherbelow thebaseof thedumpling.Dabalittlewaterontheends,ifneeded,forabetterseal.

Thefinisheddumpling

BOTTLENECKFOLD

TheopenpleatscreatedbytheBottleneckFoldresultinanespeciallyprettydumpling.Thethinneryoucanrolloutthedough,themoredramaticthiseffect. Creating the bottleneck is relatively easy, and you can make theopeningasnarroworaswideasyoulike.

1.Centerthefillingontopofthedoughroundorsquare.

2.Gatherupthesidesoftheround,creatingapoucharoundthefilling,leavinganopenneckinthecenterofthegathereddough.

3.Pinch together,without closing theneck, thecreases andpleats that formednaturallywhilethedoughwasgatheredup.Thisgivesthedumplingalooseandfrillytop.

4.Gently squeeze thebodyof thedumplinguntil the fillingpushesup a littlethroughtheneck.Holdingthedumplingbytheneck,tapthefilledbaseonyourworksurfaceuntilithasaflatbottomandcansituprightwithouttippingover.

CANDY-WRAPPERSHAPEUSINGACLOTH

WrappingdumplingswithaclothintheCandy-WrapperShapeisthesurestwaytocookadumplingthatisintheshapeofaloaforalog.

1.Rubonesideofthedampmuslinwithbutter,leavinganarrowborderonallsides.

2.Arrangethedoughlogalongoneedgeofthemuslin.

3.Rollupthedumpling.Themuslinshouldbeslightlybaggysothedumplingcanswellwhileitcooks.

Therolled-updumpling

4.Tightlytiethetwoopenends,thentiethebodyofthedumplingtosecuretheseam.

PINCHED-TOPFOLD

The Pinched-Top Fold creates the look of a casually pleated top but isactually made by gathering and pinching up opposite sides of the doughroundtogethertoenclosethefilling.

1.Centerthefillingontopofthedoughround.

2.Gatherupandpinchtogethertheoppositesidesoftheround,creatingasnugtentaroundthefilling.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.

3. Gather and pinch together the remaining two sides to enclose the filling,pushingoutanyair.

4.Pinchanygapstoseal,andtwistoffthenubofdoughthattendstoformatthetopofthedumpling.

SINGLE-HUSKTAMALEFOLD

The Single-Husk Tamale Fold shapes tamales into compact rectangularpackages. Dried corn husks are often quite large and can easily wraparoundbigspoonfulsofbatterandfilling.Ifyourhusksaresmallerortorn,however,youcanoverlaptwohusksandstillcompletethefold.

1.Layflatonecornhusk,smoothsideup.Centerthebatterontopofthehuskandspreaditouttowardtherightsideuntilyouhavearectangleabout4×2½inches.

2.Arrangethefillingontopof thelefthalfof thebatter, leavingtherighthalfwithoutanyfilling.

3.Foldtherightsideover,sandwichingthefillinginsidethebatter.

4.Foldovertheleftside.

5.Foldtheendsofthehuskoverasfirmlyasyoucantocreateaneatrectangularpackage.

6.Tiethepackageinacrisscrosspatterntopreventthehuskfromunfolding.

LOTUS-LEAFFOLD

TheLotus-LeafFoldisidealforlargedumplingsthatarestuffedwithriceand other chunky ingredients. The lotus plant has large leaves that areroundorspadeshaped.Theseleavesaredriedandtypicallyfoldedforsaleinmarkets.

1.Layflattwolotus-leafhalves(ortwobanana-leafrectangles),smoothsideup.Centerandarrangethericeandfillingontopofoneleafhalf.

2.Foldoveroneside.

3.Foldovertheoppositeside.

4.Foldovertheendsoftheleafastightlyasyoucantocreateaneatpackage.(Ifusingbananaleaves,knowthattheycanbebrittleanddoyourbesttowrapthe

packageassnugglyasyoucan.)

5.Placethepackage,foldedsidedown,onthesecondleafhalf(orbanana-leafrectangle).Wrapthepackageupinthesecondleafhalf,usingthesamefoldsinsteps 2 through 4. Keep the packages folded side down to prevent the leavesfrom unfolding. (If using banana-leaf rectangles, wrap and tie package in acrisscross pattern to prevent the leaves from unfolding.)

TWO-HUSKTAMALEFOLD1(WIDE)

The Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide) is a common tamale fold. Byoverlappingthesidesoftwocornhusks—freshordried—youcreateawidersurfaceareatoholdtheamountofbatterandfillingneededforanaverage-sizedtamale.

1.Arrangetwocornhusks,smoothsideup,nexttoeachotherlengthwisewiththewidest ends positioned on opposite sides.Overlap the husks by about 1½inches.

2.Centerthedoughorbatter(andfilling,ifcalledfor)ontopoftheoverlappinghusks.

3.Foldoveroneside.

4.Foldovertheoppositeside.

5.Foldtheendsoftheoverlappinghusksoverastightlyasyoucantocreateaneatpackage.

6.Tiethepackageinacrisscrosspatterntopreventthehusksfromunfolding.

ENVELOPEFOLD

TheEnvelopeFoldisyourbasicrectangularleaffoldthatisusedinmakinganumber of dumplings. If yourbanana leaves are cracked or torn,wrapyourdumplingsusingtheDiamondintheSquareFold(DIAMONDINTHESQUAREFOLD)insteadforamoresecurehold.

1.Lay flatonebanana-leafsquare, smoothsideup.Center thedoughorbatter(andfilling,ifcalledfor)ontopoftheleaf.

2.Foldoveroneside.

3.Foldovertheoppositeside.

4.Foldtheendsoftheleafoverastightlyasyoucantocreateaneatpackage.

5.Tiethepackageinacrisscrosspatterntopreventtheleaffromunfolding.

CANDY-WRAPPERSHAPEUSINGALEAF

TheBrazo de la Reina (June) is the only dumpling that’swrapped in theCandy-WrapperShapeUsingaLeaf.ThisprocessissimilartotheCandy-WrapperShapeUsingaCloth,onlyinsteadofacloth,hereweusealargebanana-leafrectangle.

1. Lay flat the banana-leaf rectangle, smooth side up. Arrange the batter andfillingononeofthelongeredgesoftheleaf,leavinga1-inchborderinthefrontanda2-inchborderoneachside.

2.Rollupthedumpling,doingyourbestnottoteartheleaf.

Therolled-updumpling

3.Tightlytiethetwoopenends,thentiethebodyofthedumplingtosecuretheseam.Usingscissors,trimandneatenuptheendsoftheleaf.

PUDDINGBAGFOLD

Boilingorsteamingyourfoodinapuddingbaghaslongbeenaneconomicalandresourcefulwaytocook.A largeamountofdoughorbatter,wrappedupinasturdycloth,isheldtogetherwithjustenoughroomtoexpandasitsteams or boils up into a typically round, domelike, or even cylindricalshape.Cleanyourpuddingclothaftereachuseanditcanbeusedagainandagain.

1.Rubonesideofthedampmuslinwithbutter,leavinganarrowborderonallsides(andcoatwithflourifcalledfor).

2.Centerthedoughorbatterontopofthemuslin.

3.Gatherup thecornersof themuslinandarrange the foldsneatly, creatingabag.

4.Asyoucollect themuslin andprepare it for tying, it shouldbe left slightlybaggysothatthedumplingcanswellasitcooks.Becertain,however,togripthemuslinlowenoughtoleavenoopengaps.

5.Tightlytiethegatheredmuslin.

TWO-HUSKTAMALEFOLD2(LONG)

LiketheTwo-HuskTamaleFold1(Wide),thisfoldrequiresyoutooverlaptwocornhusks,onlyherethehusksarepositionedlengthwiseinsteadofsidebyside.Afterthebatterisadded,thetamaleisfoldedupandtiedonbothends.

1. Arrange two corn husks, smooth side up, overlapping their wider ends byabout2inches.

2.Centerthebatterontopoftheoverlappinghusks.

3.Foldoveroneside.

4.Foldovertheoppositeside.

5. Tightly tie the two open ends, but leave a little room at each end for thedumplingtoexpandintowhileitcooks.Usingscissors, trimandneatenuptheendsofthehusks.

CURLED-LETTERFOLD

TherearemanywaysyoucanfoldthewontonsintheHungYouChaoShou(August),buttheCurled-LetterFoldisdeceptivelyeasy.AswiththeBelly-Button Fold, you bring the ends of the folded dough square together,pushing the filling into a tight ball, which gives the dumpling a firmer,denserbite.

1.Centerthefillingontopofthesquare.

2.Foldonesideoverthefilling.

3.Foldovertheoppositeside.

4.Nowtakebothends,pullthemtogether,overlapthemabit,andpinchtoseal.Dabalittlewaterontheends,ifneeded,forabetterseal.

Thefinisheddumpling

BAMBOO-LEAFFOLD

Thisfoldmaytakesomepracticebecauseyouhavetobalancethreebambooleaves in one hand. If the bottom leaves begin to tear as you are foldingthem, carefully slide inanew leafbefore removing the torn leaf.Bambooleaveshavea tendency tounravel ifyoudonotkeepa tightgripon themwhilefolding.Youcanusearubberbandtosecurethedumplingwhileyoutieit,butbesuretoremovetherubberbandbeforecooking.

1. Place two bamboo leaves, smooth side up, lengthwise, and alongside eachotherinthepalmofyourhand.Overlaptheleavesbyabout1½inches.

2.Centerthericeontopoftheoverlappedbambooleavesandspreadoutintoarectangleaboutthesizeofyourpalm.Arrangethefillingontopofthericeandthentopwithadditionalrice.Layathirdbambooleaf,smoothsidedown,ontopofthemoundofriceandfilling.

3.Gripandcurl thesidesof theoverlappedbottomleavesoverthetopleafbyclosingyourfingersandthumbaroundthemoundofriceandfilling.

4.Foldbackthetopendsoftheleaves.Thenfoldbackthebottomendsoftheleavesasfirmlyasyoucantocreateaneatandtightrectangularpackage.

5.Wrapandtiethepackagefourorfivetimesacrossthewidthofthedumplingandatleastoncelengthwisetopreventtheleavesfromunfolding.

January

SEMOLINADUMPLINGSWITHBUTTERANDCHEESESAUCE

Frascatelli(Italy)

BUTTER-TOSSEDSPAETZLE

Spätzle(Germany)

POTATOANDDUMPLINGBOIL-UP

KartoffelnmitMehlknödel(Germany)

SPICEDGINGERBREAD

(UnitedStates)

AWEALTHOFSTEAMEDRICEMUFFINS

FotGao(China)

STEAMEDBREADROLLS

Mantou(China)

“PRIESTSTRANGLERS”WITHBROWNBUTTERANDSAGE

Strangolapreti(Italy)

POTATOGNOCCHI

GnocchidiPatate(Italy)

MARROWDUMPLINGSINBEEFBROTH

Markklösschensuppe(Germany)

CASSAVA“TAMALES”STUFFEDWITHPORKANDCHICKPEAS

PastelesdeYuca(PuertoRico)

POUNDEDRICEDUMPLINGS

Mochi(Japan)

NEWYEAR’SDAYSOUPWITHPOUNDEDRICEDUMPLINGS

Ozoni(Japan)

SemolinaDumplingswithButterandCheeseSauceFrascatelli(Italy)

SERVES4

This ispossibly thebest technique in theworld formaking instantdumplings,and it is a liberating experience for both novices and experienced cooks. Byrainingdropletsofwaterontoamoundofsemolina,doughymorselsareformedof various sizes. These bits of dough are then dropped into simmeringwater,producing a fresh batchof dumplings in amatter ofminutes.Likegnocchi orspätzle, these dumplings are full-bodied and stand up equally well in animpromptubutterandcheesesauce(astheyarepreparedhere)astheydowithagoodbroth tomake a quick and satisfying soup. Semolina,made fromdurumwheat,isgranularinnature,notpowderylikeall-purposeflour,andisavailablein both coarse and fine varieties. A fine semolina will give you softer, moretenderdumplingsascomparedtothecoarselygroundkind.Youcanexperimentto seewhich typesuitsyoubest. Ifyoucan’t find fine semolina,youcanalsopulse the coarser type in a clean spice grinder for a lighter consistency.FrascatellicanalsobeservedwithOxtailSauceorWalnutSaucefromGnocchidiCastagne(CHESTNUTGNOCCHIWITHWALNUTSAUCE).

FortheDumplings

3½cupssemolina,plussomeextrafordusting

FortheSauce

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter1cupfreshlygratedRomanoorParmesancheese

Saltandfreshlygroundpeppertotaste

Equipment

Colanderwithlarge(¼inch)holesLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwater,andbringittoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

2.Meanwhile, spread thesemolinaoutevenlyonaworksurfaceuntilabout1inchdeep.(Youcanalsoplaceitinalarge,widebowl.Usingabowlwillreducethesurfaceareaofthesemolina,causingyoutorepeatthesprinklingandsiftingstepsafewmoretimes.)Havereadytwolargeplates.

3. Fill a medium bowl at least halfway with water and place it next to thesemolina.Sinkyourfingersintothewater,thenflickthemafewinchesoverthesemolina,causingthewatertosplotchacrossitssurface.Continuedippingandflickinguntilthesaturatedspotsarevisibleandnumerous.Thegoalistocreateagenerousamountofspots,notasurfacethatissoakedthrough.Dryyourhandsandgentlyswirlyourfingersthroughthesemolinauntilevenlycoatedclumpsofdoughform.Breakapartanyexceptionallylargepiecesintoamoreuniformsize.

4.Gently scoop the doughpieces into the colander and sift over the semolinathat remains on the work surface. Once the excess semolina and smaller bitshavebeensiftedout,turnthedoughpiecesinthecolanderontooneoftheplates.Gather up and spread the semolina out again. Repeat the sprinkling, swirling,and sifting steps until you have created as many dough pieces as you can,distributingthemevenlybetweenthetwoplates.

5.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Bringthewaterbackuptoastrongboiloverhighheat.Carefullyslide one plate of the dough pieces into the water and gently stir to preventsticking. Cook until the dumplings becomemore buoyant and tumble around

easilyinthesimmeringwater,about1minute,thencookfor1minutelonger.

6.Removethefrascatelliwithaslottedspoon,placetheminthelargebowl,anddrizzlewithaladleofthecookingliquidtopreventsticking.Cooktheremainingdoughpiecesandputtheminthebowlwithanotherladleofthecookingliquid.Reserve½cupofthecookingliquid.

7.MAKETHESAUCEANDFINISHTHEDUMPLINGS:Meltthebutterinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Drainthefrascatelliandturnthemintothebutter.Tossandstirgentlytoevenlycoat the dumplings. Pour in the reserved cooking water and stir occasionallywhilethesaucecomestoasimmer,about1minute.Removefromtheheat,mixintheRomano,sprinklewithsaltandpepper,andserve.

Butter-TossedSpaetzleSpätzle(Germany)

SERVES4TO6

Thesesmall,quick-cookingdumplingsareawelcomeadditiontosoups,leftovervegetables, and fried eggs. Spätzle made from dough are firm and shapable,whilebatter-basedrecipeslikethisonecreatesoft,squigglydumplingsthatarespectacular with nothing but butter and a sprinkling of salt. A number ofspaetzle-making tools are available at kitchen supply stores. A rotary spätzlepressistheeasiesttypetohandlebecauseitrequiresverylittleefforttooperateandcleansupfastandtidy.

FortheDumplings

3cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour1½teaspoonssalt¾teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg3largeeggs,beaten1½cupsmilkorwater

FortheSauce

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks

ForServing

Freshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Equipment

Spätzlemaker,preferablyarotaryone,orafoodmillwith¼-inchholesLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEBATTER:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

2.Combinetheflour,salt,andnutmegina largebowl.Addtheeggsandmilkandmixuntiljustcombined.Donotovermix.

3.COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Holdthespätzlemakeroverabowloraplateasyouscoop inhalfof thebatter.(Thiswillcatchanyleaksandkeepthingscleanerwhileyouwork.)Quicklymovethespätzlemakeroverthesimmeringwaterandcrankthehandleuntilthebatterhasbeenpushedthrough.Stiracoupleoftimestopreventsticking.Simmeruntilallthespätzlearefloating,1to2minutes,thencookfor1minutelonger.

4.Remove thespätzlewith a slotted spoon,place them in the largebowl, anddrizzlewithaladleofthecookingliquidtopreventsticking.Cooktheremainingbatterandplacethespätzleinthebowlwithanotherladleofthecookingliquid.

5.MAKETHESAUCEANDFINISHTHEDUMPLINGS:Meltthebutterinalargeskilletoverhighheatandswirl the pan around until it just begins to brown, about 1minute. Drain thespätzle and turn into the hot butter.Toss and stir until the edges just begin tobrown,about2minuteslonger.Sprinklewithsaltandpepperandserve.

PotatoandDumplingBoil-UpKartoffelnmitMehlknödel(Germany)SERVES4(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

Welovethisrecipebecausewithjustafewnice-sizedpotatoesandsomeflouryou can pull together a dish that’s both reliable and satisfying.Madeout of athick batter—similar to that used for Spätzle (preceding recipe)—thesedumplings are cooked in abigpotof simmeringpotatoes.Thedumplings andpotatoes are then drained and tossed in a hot panwith a generous amount ofbutter.Atoppingoffriedbreadcrumbs(seeGLOSSARYOFINGREDIENTS)adds a salty, toasted crunch.This dumpling dish is good alone or as a side tomeatormushrooms.

ForthePotatoes

3 large boiling potatoes, preferably German Butterball or Yukon Gold,peeledandcutinto1-inchcubes

FortheDumplings

1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1largeegg,beaten

ForCooking

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks

1smallyellowonion,choppedfineSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste¼cupcoarselychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

Equipment

Large,widebowltoholdthecookeddumplingsandpotatoes

1. COOK THE POTATOES:Fill a largepot three-quartersof thewaywith saltedwaterandbring to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes, cover, reduce the heat tomedium,andsimmeruntilthepotatoesarejusttender,about10minutes.

2.MAKEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Whilethepotatoesaresimmering,combinetheflour,salt,and nutmeg in amedium bowl. Add the egg and½ cup water andmix untilcombined.Don’tovermix.Youwillhaveaverymoist,stickydough.

3. Once the potatoes have cooked for 10 minutes, scoop up a well-roundedteaspoonofdough.Useanotherspoonoryourfingertomovethedoughgentlyoffthespoonandintothesimmeringwaterwiththepotatoes.Continuewith10more spoonfulsofdough, leavingasmuchspaceasyoucanaroundeach,andstir to prevent sticking. Immediately spoon in the remaining dough and stir.Cook until all of the dumplings are floating, 2 to 3minutes, then cook for 2minuteslonger.

4.Setasidealadlefulofthecookingliquid.Drainthedumplingsandpotatoes,place them in the large bowl, and drizzlewith the reserved cooking liquid topreventsticking.

5.PANFRYTHEDUMPLINGSANDPOTATOES:Meltthebutterinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonionandstirfrequentlyuntilsoft,about4minutes.Drainthedumplingsandpotatoesandturnthemintothebutterandonions.Sprinklewithsaltandpepper.Raise the heat to high and toss and stir occasionally, until the edges of thedumplingsbegin tobrown,about3minutes.Remove from theheat, stir in the

parsley,andserve.

SpicedGingerbread

(UnitedStates)

SERVES6TO8(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Steamedgingerbreadisaclassic.It’sjustasdark,moist,andrichasanybakedversion.While still warm, it can be spooned into a bowl and servedwith icecream,oritcanbecooled,sliced,andservedwithagoodappleorpearbutter.

FortheDumpling

2/3cupgrahamflour1/3cupunbleachedall-purposeflour¾teaspoonbakingsoda¼teaspoonsalt¾teaspoongroundginger½teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg¾cupmilk¼ cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see GLOSSARY OFINGREDIENTS)¼cupmolasses1largeegg,beaten4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,melted1tablespoonfinelygratedfreshgingerGratedzestof1smalllemon

ForCooking

Unsaltedbuttertocoatthecakepan

Equipment

2-inch-highsteamerrackPotlargeenoughtoholdboththerackandthepanwhencovered9-inchroundcakepan

1.Placethesteamerrackinthepot,add1½inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Meanwhile,rubalittlebutteraroundtheinsideof thecakepan.

2.Combinetheflours,bakingsoda,salt,groundginger,cinnamon,andnutmeginalargebowl.Mixtogetherthemilk,muscovadosugar,molasses,egg,meltedbutter,gratedginger,andlemonzest inamediumbowl.Pourthemilkmixtureinto the flour mixture and stir until just combined. Pour the batter into thepreparedcakepanandgiveitagentleshaketolevelitoff.

3.Carefullyplace the filledpanon thesteamer rack,cover, reduce theheat tomedium,andsteamfor30minutes.

4.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyliftthepanoutofthepot,placeitona folded kitchen towel, and allow the gingerbread to cool slightly. Slice andservewarmoratroomtemperature.Gingerbreadcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(TIPS).

AWealthofSteamedRiceMuffinsFotGao(China)

SERVES6TO12(MAKES12DUMPLINGS)

Fotgaomeans“fortunecake,”andit’ssaidthatthemorethetopsofthesetastyricecakesbloomopenduringsteaming,thegreateryourfortuneswillblossominthecomingyear.ChinesebrownslabsugarisavailableatmanyAsiangroceries,andisusedtoaddamildsweetness.Ifyouhavetroublefindingit,youcanaddanother ¾ cup of the muscovado sugar. These dumplings are associatedprimarilywiththeChineseNewYear,butweadmittomakingthemanytimewewantalight,sweetsnack.

FortheDumplings

4 ounces Chinese brown slab sugar, chopped coarse, or ¾ cup otherunrefinedsugar(seeGLOSSARYOFINGREDIENTS)¼cuplightmuscovadoorotherunrefinedsugar1¾cupswhitericeflour,preferablyfromChinaorThailand2tablespoonsbakingpowder

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot12individualbakingcups12paperbakingcups

1.MAKE THE BATTER:Placethesugarsinasmallsaucepan,pourin1¼cupswater,and

heatovermediumheat.Stir,crushingapartanychunksofsugarwiththebackofawoodenspoon.Removefromtheheatassoonasthesugarhasdissolved,3to4minutes. Pour the sugar mixture into a bowl and allow it to cool to roomtemperature.

2.Combine the rice flour and the baking powder in a large bowl. Pour in thecooledsugarsyrupandstiruntilthebatteriscompletelysmooth.Itwillbeverythin.Pourthebatterintoacontainerwithaspoutforpouring.

3.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to aboiloverhighheat.Line the individualbakingcupswiththepaperbakingcups.Arrangeasmanyofthelinedcupsinthebasketasyoucan.Pourjustenoughbatterintoeachcuptofillthemtwo-thirdsfull.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,andsteamonhighheatfor15minutes.

4.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasket,placeonafoldedkitchen towel, and allow the fot gao to cool slightly. Remove them from theindividualbakingcupsandarrangethemonaplate.Cookanyremainingbatter.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.Fotgaocanberefrigeratedforupto3days.ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(TIPS).

SteamedBreadRollsMantou(China)

SERVES3TO4(MAKES6DUMPLINGS)

Theever-popularsteamedbunofChinaisprizedforitsuniqueconsistencyandslightly sweet flavor. Bite into any well-made mantou and you’ll notice adelicate balance of tenderness and chew. This pleasant bite is the result of astretchy yeast dough that’s beenmellowedwith baking powder and vegetableshortening.Traditionally, lardisusedbutvegetableshorteningoffersacleaner,moreneutralflavor.Thissamedoughisusedforotherfilledsteamedbunsinthisbook,includingtheZhuRouBaozi(May),XiangGuBaozi(May),andNuoMiJuan(February).

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheJelly-RollShape.

FortheDumplings

¾cupwarmmilkorwater1¼teaspoonsactivedryyeast(about½packet)1½tablespoonssugar1¾cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1tablespoonnonhydrogenatedvegetableshorteningorlard1teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonsalt

ForCooking

Grapeseedorotherneutraloiltocoatthesteamerbasket

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.PROOFTHEYEAST:Pourthemilkintoasmallbowl,stirintheyeastandthesugar,andprooffor15minutes.Thesurfaceshouldbecomefoamy.Ifnot,startagainwithanewyeastpacket.

2.MAKETHEDOUGH:Whiletheyeastproofs,put1½cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeep the remaining¼ cup handy.Add the yeastmixture andmix until all theliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor4to5minutes.Thedoughwillbesoftandtacky.Returnthedoughtothebowl,coverwithadampkitchentowel,andsetasideinawarmplacefor1½to2hours.Thedoughwilldoubleinsize.Use theProofingPot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is notideal.

4.Punchdownthedough,placeitonaflouredsurface,andkneadonceortwice.Sprinklewith flour if it gets a little sticky. Pat the dough into a small round,about8inchesacross.Pinchtheshorteningintosmallbitsanddotthemacrossthesurfaceofthedoughround.Sprinklethebakingpowderandsaltoverthetop.Fold the dough over, enveloping the shortening, then roll it back into a ball.Kneaduntil theshorteninghasbeenincorporatedandthedoughissmoothandelastic.Ifbitsoftheshorteningoozeout,sprinklethatareawithalittleflourandcontinuekneading.Returnthedoughtothebowl,cover,andlet thedoughrestfor15minutes.

Atthispoint,thedoughcanalsobeusedfortheZhuRouBaozi,XiangGuBaozi,orNuoMiJuan.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthemantou,reviewtheJelly-RollShape.

6.Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andsetaside.

7.Kneadthedoughonceortwiceonaflouredsurface,shapeitintoabluntlog,thenrollitoutintoan8-inchsquare.Brushthesurfaceofthesquarewithalittlewater.Startingatanyside,begin to rollup thedough.Pinchandpress the faredgeofthedoughalongthelengthofthelogtoseal.Useyourhandstorollthelogbackandforthuntilit’s12incheslong.Cuttheloginto6equalpieces.

8.STEAM THE DUMPLINGS:Coatthebottomofthebasketwithoilandarrangeasmanyofthedumplingsasyoucan,seamsidedown,leavingabout1inchofspacearoundeach.Coveranydumplingswaitingtobecookedwithacloth.

9.Bringthewaterinthesteamerpottoaboiloverhighheat.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium-high,andsteamfor20minutes.

10.Remove the pot from the heat.Carefully remove the basket, place it on afolded kitchen towel, and allow themantou to cool slightly.Move them to aplate.Cookanyremainingmantou.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.Mantoucan be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (seeTIPS) for up to 6months.ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(TIPS).Ifreheatingfrozenmantou,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

“PriestStranglers”withBrownButterandSageStrangolapreti(Italy)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT48DUMPLINGS)

Dumplings known as strangolapreti differ greatly throughout Italy. Spinach,chard, or other leafy greens worked into the dough are, however, oftenconsideredadefiningcharacteristic.OnepopulartypefromnorthernItalystartsby soaking bits of day-old bread in spinach-water. Flour and spinach are thenaddedtocreateasoft,easy-to-rolldough.Thedumplingsarevibrantincolorandstandoutasaspecialofferingonanytable.

FortheDumplings

1largebunchspinach,stemmed,rinsed,andhand-wilted(seeTIPS)10 cups ½-inch crustless white bread cubes (see GLOSSARY OFINGREDIENTS)2largeeggs,beaten2teaspoonssalt½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg¼cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting

FortheSauce

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks8to10freshsageleaves1garlicclove,choppedveryfine

ForServing

½cupfreshlygratedParmesancheeseSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Equipment

Largeplateortraytoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKE THE DOUGH:Gather uphalf of thewilted spinach, hold it over the bowl, andsqueezeoutasmuchjuiceasyoucan.Placethesqueezedspinachonacuttingboardandrepeatwiththeremainingspinachinthebowl.Pourthecollectedjuiceintoameasuringcup.Addcoolwatertothejuiceuntilyouhave1cupofliquid.

2.Finelychopthespinach,placeitbackintothebowl,addthebreadcubes,andpour in the spinach-water.Work themixture together by squishing it throughyourfingersuntilallofthebreadhasbeenbrokendownintoapulp.Mixintheeggs,salt,nutmeg,andthe¼cupofParmesan.Add¾cupoftheflourandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Workthemixture intoonemanageableball. If thedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

4.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1¼inchesaround.Place the ball on a floured surface, roll into a rope about 4 inches longwithtapered ends (a cigar shape), dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray.Repeatwiththeremainingdough,keepingthedumplingsinasinglelayeronthetray.

5.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

6. Carefully drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmeringwater. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 2minuteslonger.

7. Remove the dumplingswith a slotted spoon, scatter them around the largeplateor tray,anddrizzlewithafewspoonfulsof thecookingliquid topreventsticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them on the plate withanotherfewspoonfulsofthecookingliquid.

8.MAKE THE SAUCE:Melt thebutter ina largeskilletovermediumheat.Add thesageleavesandgarlicandcookuntilthegarlicjustbeginstobrown,about2minutes.Drain thestrangolapretiandadd themto thebuttersauce.Tossandstirgentlyuntiltheedgesjustbegintobrown.Removefromtheheat,mixinthe½cupofParmesan,sprinklewithsaltandpepper,andserve.

PotatoGnocchiGnocchidiPatate(Italy)

SERVES4

Makinggnocchirequiresalighttouchandtheabilitytobeflexible,butonceyoumaster the recipe, you can easilymake gnocchi anytime, in anyone’s kitchen,without any instructions in front of you. We prefer gnocchi that are madewithouteggssothatlessflourisneededtomakethedough.Thelessflouryouneed, themorepotatoflavor therewillbe ineachbite. If thisdough isnewtoyou,itmaytakeacoupleoftriestogetitjustright,butthegnocchiyouproducewhiletryingwillstillbeperfectlygoodtoeat.

FortheDumplings

4mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting½teaspoonsalt

FortheSauce*

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks

ForServing*

½cupfreshlygratedParmesancheeseSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Equipment

PotatoricerGnocchiboard(optional)Largeplateortraytoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKE THE DOUGH:Place thepotatoes ina smallpot,pour inenoughwater tocoverthem,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmeruntil fork-tender, about 30minutes.Drain andplace thepotatoes on afoldedkitchentowel.Whenthey’recoolenoughtohandle,peelofftheirskins,breakthemintochunks,thenpressthemthroughthericerintoalargebowl.

2.Add1cupoftheflourtothericedpotato,keepingtheremaining¼cuphandy,thenaddthesaltandtossuntilmixedevenly.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.

3.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor2to3minutes.Thisdoughneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifitistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.

4.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

5. Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll one piece of dough into a ropeabout½inchthick,sprinklingwithflourifitgetsalittlesticky.Cuttheropeinto¾-inchlengths.

6. If you don’t want ridges on your gnocchi, place the cut dough pieces in asinglelayeronthepreparedtray.Ifyoudowantridges,rolleachpiecealongthegnocchiboardoralongthetinesofafork.Rollthepiecealongthebackofthefork to avoid catching it on the ends of the tines. Repeat with the remainingdough.

7.Setasidethenumberofgnocchithatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherest

frozenforupto6months(seeTIPS).

8.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

9.Carefullydropuptoafewdozengnocchiintothesimmeringwater,afewatatime. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2minuteslonger.(Ifcookingfrozengnocchi,addthemdirectlytothesimmeringwaterand increase thecooking timeby1minute.Donotallowthegnocchi tothawbeforecooking.)

10.Removethegnocchiwithaslottedspoon,scatterthemonthelargeplateortray,anddrizzlewithafewspoonfulsofthecookingliquidtopreventsticking.Restingthecookedgnocchionaroomyplatepreventsthemfrompilingupwhiletheysetandfirmupabit.Cooktheremaininggnocchiinbatches,placingthemontheplatewithanotherfewspoonfulsofthecookingliquid.Setaside½cupofthecookingliquidforthesauce.

11.Meltthebutterinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Cookuntilthebutterjustbeginstobrown,about2minutes.Drainthegnocchiandaddthemtothebutter.Tossandstirgentlyuntiltheedgesjustbegintobrown.Removefromtheheat,mixintheParmesan,sprinklewithsaltandpepper,andserve.

POTATOGNOCCHIWITHOXTAILSAUCE

MaketheOxtailSauce(recipefollows).Whilethesauceissimmering,preparethegnocchiandcooktheminboilingwatershortlybeforetheyneedtobeaddedto the sauce.Or you canmake the sauce up to 3 days in advance, keeping itrefrigerated in a tightly sealed container. Bring the sauce to a simmer beforeaddingthecookedgnocchi.

OXTAILSAUCE

MAKESABOUT4CUPS

3tablespoonsoliveoil2poundsmeatyoxtailpieces3celeryribswithleaves,choppedfine1mediumyellowonion,choppedfine1garlicclove,choppedfine5stemsfreshthymeor1teaspoondried½cupwhitewine3cupsBeefBroth6 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see GLOSSARY OFINGREDIENTS), and crushed, or 6 canned plum tomatoes, drained andcrushed(about1½cups)1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper5to6creminimushrooms

1.Heattheoilinamediumpotovermediumheat.Addtheoxtailpiecesinonelayer anddonot stiruntil theundersidesaregoldenbrown, about10minutes.Turnthemoverandbrowntheothersides,about8minuteslonger.Usingtongs,move the oxtail to a bowl, leaving behind the oily fat.Add the celery, onion,garlic, and thyme to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion issoft,about4minutes.Pour in thewineandscrapeupanystickybits fromthebottomofthepotwithawoodenspoon.

2.Returntheoxtailpiecesandanydrippingstothepot.Pourinthebroth.Mixinthetomatoes,salt,andpepper.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor2to2½hours.Stiroccasionally,addingalittlewaterifthebrothreducesbelowthehalfwaymarkoftheoxtail.

3.Usingtongs,movetheoxtailpiecestoabowlandallowthemtocoolasthesauce continues to simmer. Quarter themushrooms,mix them into the sauce,

cover,andcookfor20minutes.

4.Meanwhile,pulltheoxtailmeatoffthebones,discardthebones,andmixthemeat back into the sauce. Immediately stir in the cooked gnocchi, cook for 1minutetoheatthrough,andserve.

MarrowDumplingsinBeefBrothMarkklösschensuppe(Germany)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT24DUMPLINGS)

Marrow gives these tender bread crumb dumplings a subtle beef flavor and acreamy texture. Beef marrow bones are frequently kept behind the butcher’scounter.Ask for the freshestbonespossible,approximately1 inch thick.Oncetheboneshavewarmedtoroomtemperature,youcaneasilyscrapethemarrowoutwithabutterknifeorasmallspoon.Workcarefullyandbemindfulof thesharpedgesorjaggedpointsoftenfoundonsaw-cutbones.Forthosewhodon’teatveal,knowthatwhenyouaskforbeefmarrowbones, it’softenvealbonesthatarehandedover.Bespecificifyouwantmaturebeefbones.

FortheDumplings

4poundsbeefmarrowbones,atroomtemperature2½ cups coarse dry crustless white bread crumbs (see GLOSSARY OFINGREDIENTS)½cupmilk1largeegg,beaten¾teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmegUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheBroth

1recipe(2quarts)BeefBrothwithGermanFlavors

Equipment

Sievelinedwith4to6layersofcheesecloth

1.RENDERTHEMARROW1½HOURSINADVANCE:Wipedownthemarrowboneswithadamptowel.Usingabluntknife,scoopandscrapethemarrowoutofthebonesintoabowl.Placethecollectedmarrowintoasmallsaucepan,placeoververylowheat,andmelt slowly into a clear, oily liquid, 25 to 30minutes. As themarrowmelts,foamy solid bits will naturally separate and become obvious. Remove thesaucepanfromtheheatandstrainthehotmarrowthroughthecheesecloth-linedsieveintoaglassbowl.Coverandrefrigerateuntilsolid,about1hour.(Youcanalso render themarrow in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealedglasscontainerforupto1weekorfrozenforupto6months.)

2.Removethemarrowfromtherefrigeratorandletitrestuntilsoftandcreamy.

3.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place1½cupsofthebreadcrumbsinamediumbowlandkeeptheremaining1cuphandy.Stirinthemilk.

4.Placetheeggandthemarrowinanotherbowlandwhiskuntilthemarrowhasbeendistributedevenlythroughouttheegg.Mixinthesaltandnutmeg.Pourtheegg mixture over the milk-soaked bread crumbs and mix. You will have aslightlylumpybatter.

5.Workinsomeoftheremainingbreadcrumbs,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveaslightlystickydoughthatjustholdsitsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Coverandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

6.COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Pourthebeefbrothintoamediumpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

7.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

8.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandroll it intoaballabout1 incharound,dustwithflour,andplaceonthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

9. Carefully drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering broth.Cookuntilallof themarefloating,about2minutes, thencookfor2minutes longer,andserve.

Cassava“Tamales”StuffedwithPorkandChickpeasPastelesdeYuca(PuertoRico)SERVES6TO12(MAKES12DUMPLINGS)

At many Puerto Rican markets or restaurants you can find paper-wrappedpasteles soaking in pots of steaming liquid. They can be made from banana,plantain, taro, potato, pumpkin, rice, cassava, or a combination. Pasteles deyuca,madewithcassava,aredistinctlyheavyandsatisfying,withanintriguingtexture,seemingtobothcrumbleandmeltaroundasavoryandsweetfillingofchickpeas,pork,andraisins.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheDiamondintheSquareFold.

FortheAchioteOil

¾cupgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1/3cupachiote(annatto)seedsor½teaspoonachiotepowder

FortheFilling

½cupdriedchickpeas,soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hours,or1cupcannedchickpeas,drainedandrinsed1recipeSofrito(recipefollows)1poundbonelessporkshoulder,cutinto½-inchcubes1tablespoontomatopaste¼poundunsmokedbrine-cured(orwet-cured)ham1tablespoondrainedcapers,rinsed12pimiento-stuffedgreenoliveswith2tablespoonsofthebrine¼cupraisinsSalttotaste

FortheCassavaMixture

4poundscassava(yuca)½cupmilk

ForAssembly

Twelve 10-inch prepared banana-leaf squares (see GLOSSARY OFEQUIPMENT)Twelve12×15-inchparchmentpapersheetsTwelve20-inchlengthofkitchenstringfortyingthepasteles

1.MAKE THE ACHIOTE OIL: If using achiote seeds, place the oil and the seeds in a smallsaucepanandcookoververylowheat,stirringoccasionally,for15minutes.Theoilwillgraduallybecomedarkredincolor.Straintheoilthroughasieveintoaglass bowl and discard the seeds. Set the oil aside and let it cool to roomtemperature. Ifusingachiotepowder,mix it into the roomtemperatureoilandsetaside.(Youcanalsomaketheachioteoilinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedglasscontainerforupto1month.)

2.MAKETHEFILLING:(Skipthisstepifusingcannedchickpeas.)Drainthechickpeasandplacetheminasmallpot.Coverwithwaterby2inchesandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntilthechickpeasarejusttender,1to1½hours.

3.While thechickpeasaresimmering,addhalfof theachioteoil toamediumpotandheatoverhighheat.Quicklyandcarefullypourinthesofrito.Reducetheheat to medium and simmer, stirring frequently, until the sauce thickens anddarkens in color, about 6 minutes. Stir in the pork, tomato paste, and ½ cupwater. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes, stirringoccasionally,andaddingupto½cupwaterifthesaucestartstodryoutaroundtheedgesofthepan.

4.Drainthechickpeasandstirthemintothesimmeringporkalongwiththeham,capers,olives,andbrine.Coverandcookfor10minutes longer.Removefromtheheat,stirintheraisins,andsprinklewithsalt.Scoopeverything,includingallofthesauce,intoashallowbowlandallowittocooltoroomtemperature.

5. MAKE THE CASSAVA MIXTURE: While the filling is cooling, prepare the cassava (seeGLOSSARYOFINGREDIENTS)andfinelygrateitontoakitchentowel.Bringtogether theendsof theclothand twist tosqueezeoutasmuchof thecassavajuiceasyoucan.Theamountofliquidyouaresqueezingoutwon’tbemuchandmaysimplybeabsorbedby thecloth.Do thisstep inbatches if it seemsmoreeffective. Place the cassava in a bowl and break it up a little. Add in theremainingachioteoilandthemilkandmixwell.

6. ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS:Before assembling the pasteles, review the Diamond in theSquareFold.Insteadofusingtwobanana-leafsquares,replacethelargesquarewithapieceofparchmentpaper.TheDiamondintheSquareFoldisdesignedtomakethemostoutofthestrengthofthebananaleafbycrisscrossingitsfibers.

7.Lineatraywithakitchentowel.Havereadythecassavamixture,thefilling,theparchmentandbanana-leafsquares,andtheirties.

8. Lay flat 1 parchment paper square and place a banana-leaf square, smoothside up, diagonally on top of it. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of the cassavamixtureontopoftheleafandspreaditoutintoa4-inchsquare.Place2roundedtablespoonsoffillingontopofthecassavamixture.Trytodistributethefillingsothatthereisanoliveineachpackage.Topwithanother2tablespoonsofthecassava.Foldoveronecornerof thestackedpaperandleaf, thenfoldovertheopposite corner. Fold the ends over as firmly as you can to create a neat,rectangular package. Tie to secure the folds, place on the tray, and repeat theassemblyuntilyouhave12packages.

9.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepotthree-quartersofthewaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reduce theheat tomediumfora steadysimmer.Gentlydropthepackages,oneatatime,intothewater.Theywillpileup,whichisfineaslongasthetoplayeriscoveredbyatleast1inchofwater.Coverandsimmer

for45minutes.

10.Removethepasteleswithtongsandplaceinacolandertodrain.Allowthemtocoolslightly,cutoffthestrings,andserve.It’sbestnottoopenthepackagestoosoon,andtopeelbackthepaperandleafjustbeforeeating,sothattheystaymoist and warm. Pasteles can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen(unopened)forupto6months(seeTIPS).ReheatthepastelesinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(TIPS).Ifreheatingfrozenpasteles,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

SOFRITO

MAKESABOUT1CUP

1largegreenbellpepper,choppedcoarse1smallyellowonion,choppedcoarse½cupcoarselychoppedfreshcilantrostemsandleaves3garliccloves,choppedcoarse2smallsweetajicitochilesor1cubanellechile,coredandseeded4 culantro (recao) leaves, trimmed, or another ½ cup coarsely choppedcilantro1tablespoonfreshoreganoleaves3tablespoonsoliveoil

Pulsealltheingredientsinafoodprocessoruntilthemixtureislightandpulpy.Use immediatelyor store in a tightly sealed container forup to1week in therefrigeratororkeepfrozenforupto6months.

PoundedRiceDumplingsMochi(Japan)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8SMALLDUMPLINGS)

Mochi is one of the great wonders of Japanese cooking and a New Year’straditionthatrequiresimpressiveamountsofphysicallabor.Moundsofsteamedsweet,sticky(glutinous)ricearepoundedintoasmooth,dense,marshmallowytextured treat. We’ve made the process easier by grinding the rice beforesteaming it,which shortens thepounding time considerably.There are electricmochi-makingmachinesthatareaboutthesizeofabreadmaker,andtheyareagoodinvestmentifyouplantomakeitoften.However,takingthetimetopoundthericeyourselfisthebestwaytosatisfytheoccasionalindulgenceformochi.

Becausefreshmochi issoverysoftandsticky, it isnot recommendedforsmallchildren.

FortheMochi

1 cup Japanese short-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice (mochi gome),coarselygroundinacleanspiceorcoffeegrinderandsoakedinplentyofwaterfor30minutes¼cuppotatostarch(katakuriko)

ForServing

2tablespoonssoysauce,sugar,orroastedsoybeanpowder(kinako)

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot24-inchsquareofmuslinLargesturdywoodenbowlandalargepestleormeatpounderforpoundingthemochi

1.Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,wringitout,thendrapeitinsidethebasket,creatingalining.Drainthegroundrice,scoopitintothelinedbasket,andspreaditoutevenly.Placethebasketinthepot,reducetheheattomedium,cover,andsteamfor40minutes.

2.Removethepotfromtheheatandletthericerestinthesteamerfor5minutes.Using themuslin liner, lift the riceoutof thebasketand turn it into thebowl.The bowl must be roomy enough for you to pound the rice freely withoutspilling. Using the pestle or meat pounder, begin to pound the rice steadily.Continuepoundinguntilthericeissmooth(ormostlysmooth),bouncy,andverysticky,about10minutes.If themochi is toodryandfirmtopoundeffectively,addsomewarmwaterandcontinuepounding.

3.Sprinklethepotatostarchoveraworksurface.Wetyourhandsandmovethemochi onto the starched surface. Now dry your hands and lightly knead themochiintothestarchuntilitisnolongerexceedinglystickytothetouch.Divideinto 8 equal pieces, roll into balls, and servewith a little soy sauce, sugar, orsoybeanpowder.

If using themochi tomakeOzoni (recipe follows), divide it into 8 equalpieces,rollintoballs,coverwithadamptowel,andsetasideuntilthedumplingsarereadytobetoasted.

Ifusing themochi tomake IchigoDaifuku (May), divide it into 12 equalpieces, roll into balls, and keep them covered with a damp towel until thedumplingsarereadytobeassembled.

NewYear’sDaySoupwithPoundedRiceDumplingsOzoni(Japan)

SERVES8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

OzoniisaNewYear’sseafoodsoupdefinedbythesweetricedumplingsthataretoasted and added to the soup just before serving. These pounded ricedumplings,ormochi,offerasoft, taffylikechewandaclean, refreshingflavorwithin the aged, darker flavors of the broth.Dashi is not a time-consumingbroth,madeessentiallybysteepingpiecesofkelpandbonitoflakesinhotwater.Kamabokoisalsoavitalcomponentofthesoup.Madefromawhitefishpastethat’sbeensteamedintoslenderloaves,kamabokoarefirmfishcakesthatcanbeslicedandaddedtosoupsandotherdishes.

Becausefreshmochi issoverysoftandsticky, it isnot recommendedforsmallchildren.

FortheSoup

Two5-inchsquaresdriedkelp(kombu),gentlyrinsed1cuplooselypackedbonitoflakes(katsuobushi)4skinlesschickenbreastsorthighs,trimmedofexcessfat1smalldaikonradish,peeledandslicedintosixteen1/8-inchrounds1teaspoonsoysauce1½teaspoonssalt1smallcarrot,cutinto1/8-inchrounds8freshshiitakemushroomcapsOne7-ouncefishcake(kamaboko),cutinto16equalslices1smallbunchmizunaorwatercress,stemmedandrinsed2teaspoonsdriedyuzurindorgratedlemonzest2scallions,trimmedandslicedintothinrings

FortheDumplings

1 recipeMochi (Pounded Rice Dumplings), divided evenly into 8 piecesandrolledintoballs(preferablymadenomorethan4hoursinadvance)

Equipment

Sievelinedwith2to4layersofcheesecloth

1.MAKE THE BROTH:Pour10cupswater intoamediumpot.Addthekelpandsoakatroomtemperaturefor15to20minutes.Placethepotoverhighheat.Assoonasthe broth begins to simmer, stir in the bonito flakes and immediately removefrom the heat. Cover and let the broth steep for 10minutes. Strain the broththroughthecheesecloth-linedsieveintoalargebowlandcleanthepot.Pourthebrothbackintothepotandsetaside.

2. Pour 2 cups water into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat.Arrange thechicken in thepot ina single layer,cover, reduce theheat to low,andsimmerfor10minutes.Turnthechickenover,coveragain,andcookfor5minuteslonger.Removefromtheheat.Movethechickenwithaslottedspoontoaplatetocool.Strainthechickenbroththroughthecheesecloth-linedsieveintoamediumbowl.

3.MAKE THE SOUP:Pourthechickenbrothintothekelpbrothandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Addthedaikon,soysauce,andsalt.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor10minutes.

4. Meanwhile, pull the chicken meat off the bones and tear it into bite-sizedpieces. Once the daikon has finished cooking, stir in the chicken, carrot,mushrooms,andfishcakeslicesandcookfor5minuteslonger.Reducetheheattovery,verylowtokeepthesouphotwhileyoutoastthemochi.(Youcanalsomake the soup up to 3 days in advance and keep it tightly covered in therefrigerator.)

5.TOAST THE DUMPLINGS:Slowlyheatadry,heavygrillpanorskilletovermediumheat.Arrangetheballsofmochiinthepan,leavingabout1inchofspacearoundeach.Themochiwillsoftenandspreadoutas theycook.Toastuntil thebottomsaregolden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. You must let them brown beforeturningthemortheymighttear.Usingasmallspatulaorabutterknife,carefullylift and turn them to toast theother sides.Place1 toastedmochi in each soupbowl.

6. FINISH THE SOUP: Bring the soup back to a simmer overmedium heat. Stir in themizunaandtheyuzuandcookfor2minutes.Ladlethehotsoupoverthemochialong with a good mixture of the soup ingredients. Serve with a sprinkle ofscallions.

February

SPOON-DROPPEDSEMOLINADUMPLINGS

Kletski(Russia)

CHOCOLATEBREADCRUMBPUDDING

(England)

MILK-STEAMEDBUNSWITHVANILLACUSTARDSAUCE

Dampfnudeln(Germany)

CLOUD-SHAPEDBREADBUNS

TingMomo(Tibet)

STEAMEDBREADLOAVESSTUFFEDWITHSTICKYFRIEDRICE

NuoMiJuan(China)

POTATODUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHHAM

Kroppkakor(Sweden)

SILESIANPOTATODUMPLINGSWITHMUSHROOMSAUCE

Kluski l skie(Poland)

CHESTNUTGNOCCHIWITHWALNUTSAUCE

GnocchidiCastagneconSalsadiNoci(Italy)

PANFRIEDDUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHCHICKENANDMUSHROOMS

JiaoZi(China)

Spoon-DroppedSemolinaDumplingsKletski(Russia)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT28DUMPLINGS)

Kletski are soft, egg-rich dumplings full of buttery flavor.Lightly cooking theflour and fat as they aremixed together creates a tender, semicongealed pasteintowhichtheeggsaremixed.Theyarewonderfulwithmeltedbutterandsourcream,but they are just aspopularwhen served in ameatybrothor in abeetsoup.

FortheDumplings

¾cupmilk6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter½cupsemolinaflour½teaspoonsalt2largeeggs,separated2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, dill, tarragon, or acombination(optional)

ForServing

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeserving½cupsourcream

Equipment

Large,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Pourthemilkintoasmallpotandaddthe6tablespoonsbutter.Stirovermediumheatuntil themilk justbegins tobubblearound theedgesof thepot. Add the semolina flour and the salt all at once, stir vigorously until justcombined,andimmediatelyremovefromtheheat.Continuestirringuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbedandyouhaveathick,glossy,pastybatter.

2.Placethepanoverlowheatandstircontinuouslyuntilthebatterthickensintoasoftdoughthatpullsawayfromthesidesofthepot.Continuestirringuntilthepastycoating lefton thebottomandsidesof thepanbegins tobrown,about2minutes.Removefromtheheat,scoopintoamediumbowl,breakitupabit,andallowittocoolslightly.

3.Whilethedoughisstillwarm,addoneeggyolk.Mixitincompletelywithawoodenspoon,thenmixinthesecondyolk.

4.Whisktheeggwhitesinalargebowluntiltheyformsoftpeaks.Addhalfoftheeggwhitestothedoughandmixuntilwellcombined.Nowaddandfoldintheremainingeggwhitesandtheparsleyifusing.

5.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Scoopuparoundedtablespoonof thedough.Useanother spoonoryour finger tomove thedoughgently off the spoon and into thewater. Try to drop in about 14 spoonfuls ofdough,leavingasmuchspaceasyoucanaroundeachdumpling,beforethefirstone begins to float.Cookuntil all of themare floating, about 2minutes, thencookfor3minuteslonger.

6.Removethedumplingswithaslottedspoon,placetheminthelargebowlwithaladlefulof thecookingliquidtopreventthemfromsticking,andkeepwarm.Cook the remaining dough and place the dumplings in the bowlwith anotherladleofthecookingliquid.

7.Onceallofthedumplingshavebeencooked,drainandplacetheminalargeservingbowl.Drizzlewithmelted butter and servewith a side of sour cream.Kletskiarealsogoodthenextday,friedinalittlebutterandservedwitheggsforbreakfastoralightsnack.

ChocolateBreadCrumbPudding

(England)

SERVES4(MAKES1DUMPLING)

This steamed pudding looks like a traditional and elegant chocolate cake, butbecauseitismadewithbreadcrumbsithasadistinctiveanddensertexture.Theslightsaltinessofthebreadaccentuatestheflavorofthesweet,darkchocolate.Thispuddingisexcellentservedwarmoratroomtemperature.

ThedumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDumpling

2 cups coarse fresh crustless white bread crumbs (see GLOSSARY OFINGREDIENTS)1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour½cupsugar2teaspoonsbakingpowder¼teaspoonsalt6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunksOne4-ouncebarsemisweetorbittersweetchocolate,cutintosmallchunks,or2/3cupchocolatechips2largeeggs,beaten¼cupmilk

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin1recipeCreamSauceorSweetenedWhippedCream(recipesfollow)

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.MAKETHEBATTER:Combinethebreadcrumbs,flour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsaltinalargebowl.

2.Meltthebutterandthechocolateinadoubleboilerorinastainless-steelbowlsetontopofapotfilledwith1inchofsimmeringwater.(Thebowlshouldnottouch thesimmeringwaterbutshould restdirectlyabove it.)Stirconstantly toavoidscorchingthechocolate.Removefromtheheatthemomentthechocolatehasmeltedcompletely,placeonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowthechocolatetocoolslightly.

3.Pourtheeggsintothebreadcrumbmixturealongwiththemeltedchocolateandmixwell.Slowlystirinthemilk.Donotovermix.

4. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSetup.

5.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.

6.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducethe

heattolowforagentlesimmer.

7.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutter and coating itwith sugar. Scoop the batter into the basin andwiggle itgentlytolevelitoff.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthebatter.Cover thebasinwith thedampmuslinandsecure it tightlywith thestring.Tie the opposite corners of themuslin into handles over the top of thepudding.

8.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothewaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast1½hoursorupto2½hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavorandtexture.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

9.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholder tograsptheclothhandle,carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallow the pudding to cool for 5minutes.Remove the string, cloth, and paper.Unmoldby inverting itontoaplate.SliceandservewarmwithCreamSauce,Sweetened Whipped Cream, or vanilla ice cream. The pudding can berefrigeratedforup to3days.Reheat inasteamerpotoruse theSteamerPlateSetup(TIPS).

CREAMSAUCE

MAKESABOUT1½CUPS

¾cupheavycream½cupmilk¼cupsugarPinchofsalt

Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan and heat over high heat. Stircontinuously until the sugar has dissolved and the sauce just begins to bubblearoundtheedgesofthesaucepan.Removefromtheheatandletthesaucecoolslightlybeforeserving.Youcanalsomakethesauceupto3daysinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainer.Reheatthesauceovermediumheatuntilwarm,stirringconstantly.

SWEETENEDWHIPPEDCREAM

MAKESABOUT1½CUPS

¾cupheavycream1½tablespoonssuperfinesugar(orgranulatedsugarpulsedinacleanspiceorcoffeegrinderfor1to2minutes)

1.Chillawhiskandamediummetalbowlinthefreezerfor5minutes.Ifusinganelectrichandmixer,placethewhiskingattachmentinthefreezer.

2.Whisktheheavycreaminthechilledbowluntilitformssoftpeaks.Addhalfofthesugarandcombinewithafewstrokes.Addtheremainingsugarandwhiskuntilfirmpeaksform.Serveimmediately.

Milk-SteamedBunswithVanillaCustardSauceDampfnudeln(Germany)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

Thesepopularyeastbunsgoverywellwithmeatandsavorysauces,buttheyarealso delicious as a snack or a dessert—as shown here—served with a goodcustardorfruitsauce.Simmeringthebunsinbutterandmilkmakesthemextrasoft and moist, but once the liquid has cooked off, they’re left in the pan amomentlongersothattheirbottomscangetcrispyandbrown.Theprunesaucerecipe that follows can be spooned over the top, or the buns can be cookeddirectlyinthesauce.

FortheDumplings

¼ cupwarmwater, preferably nonchlorinated, such as distilled or springwater1/3cupplus1teaspoonsugar1¼teaspoonsactivedryyeast(about½packet)2¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting¼teaspoonsalt2largeeggs,atroomtemperature,beaten6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter,melted

ForCooking

2cupsmilk2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks1tablespoonsugar

¼teaspoonsalt1vanillabeanor1teaspoonpurevanillaextract

ForServing

1recipeVanillaCustardSauceorPruneSauce(recipesfollow)

Equipment

Large,deepskilletwithcover

1. PROOF THE YEAST: Pour thewarmwater into a small bowl, stir in the yeast, and 1teaspoon of the sugar, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should becomefoamy.Ifnot,startagainwithanewyeastpacket.

2.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Whiletheyeastproofs,place2cupsoftheflourintoalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Mixintheremaining1/3cupsugarandthesalt.Pourintheyeastmixture,eggs,andmeltedbutterandmixuntilallof theliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifitistoowetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.Kneadthedoughonaflouredsurfacefor2minutes.Thedoughwillbesoftandtacky.Returnthedoughtothebowl,coverwithadampkitchentowel,andsetasideinawarmplaceuntilthedoughdoublesinsize,1½to2hours.UsetheProofingPotSetup(TIPS)ifthetemperatureoftheroomisnotideal.

4.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

5.Punchdownthedough,placeonaflouredsurface,andkneadonceortwice.Divideinto8equalpieces.Rolleachpieceofdoughintoaballandspacethemevenlyon theprepared tray.Coverwitha towelandallow them to rise for20

minutes.

6. COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Put themilk,2 tablespoonsbutter,1 tablespoonsugar,and thesaltintheskillet.Bringtoaverygentlesimmerovermediumheat,beingcarefulnottoallowthemilktocometoafullboil.Immediatelyreducetheheattolow.

7.Slicethevanillabeanopenalongitslengthwithasharpknife.Scrapeoutthegooeyseedsandwhiskthemintothemilkmixture.Ifusingvanillaextract,stiritintothemilkmixture.Usingaspatula,gentlyliftandarrangethedumplings½inchapartinthesimmeringmilkmixture.Coverandcookfor25minutes.

8. Remove the cover to allow any remaining liquid to cook off. Continuecooking until you hear a strong sizzling sound and the undersides of thedampfnudelnbecomegoldenbrownandcrisp.Removethemwithaspatulaandplaceonaservingdishorindividualplates.ServewithVanillaCustardSauceorPruneSauce.

VANILLACUSTARDSAUCE

MAKESABOUT1½CUPS

1cupmilk3largeeggyolks¼cupsugarPinchofsalt½vanillabeanor½teaspoonpurevanillaextract1tablespoonbrandy(optional)

1.Heat themilk in a small saucepan overmediumheat until it just begins tobubblealongthesidesofpan.Donotallowthemilktocometoafullsimmer.Immediatelyremovefromtheheatandsetaside.

2.Whisktogethertheeggyolks,sugar,andsaltinamediumbowluntilthesugarhasmostlydissolved.Continuewhiskingwhilegraduallydrizzlinginthewarmmilk.

3.Slicethevanillabeanopenalongitslengthwithasharpknife.Scrapeoutthegooeyseedsandwhiskthemintothemilkmixture.Ifusingvanillaextract,stiritintothemilkmixture.

4.Pourthemixtureintoadoubleboilerorastainless-steelbowlsetontopofapot filled with 1 inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not touch thesimmeringwaterbutshouldrestdirectlyaboveit.)Whiskvigorouslyatalltimesuntilthemixtureisthickandcreamy,4to5minutes.Removefromtheheatandplaceonafoldedkitchentoweltocoolslightly.Whiskinthebrandy,ifdesired,justbefore serving.Youcanalsomake the sauceup to3days inadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainer.Reheatthesauceovermediumheatuntilwarm,stirringconstantly.

PRUNESAUCE

MAKES2½CUPS

1cuppittedprunes(about12largeprunes),choppedfine2tablespoonssugar¼teaspoongroundcinnamon½cupredwine2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice,plus1tablespoongratedzest1tablespooncoldunsaltedbutter

1. Place the prunes, sugar, and cinnamon in a medium saucepan, pour in thewine,lemonjuice,and1½cupswaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor15minutes,stirringoccasionally.

2.Remove thesaucepanfromtheheat.Add the lemonzestandbutterandstiruntil all the butter has melted into the sauce. Serve warm spooned over thedampfnudeln.Youcanalsomakethesauceupto3daysinadvanceandkeepitrefrigerated in a tightly sealed container. Reheat the sauce over medium heatuntilwarm,stirringconstantly.

STEAMEDBUNSCOOKEDINPRUNESAUCE

Insteadofpouringthefinishedsauceoverthedampfnudeln,thinitoutwith1½cupswater.Usethisinplaceofthemilkmixturetocookthedumplings.

Cloud-ShapedBreadBunsTingMomo(Tibet)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

Thesewholewheatbunscanbe found in severaldifferent shapes.We like thefrillyFan-KnotFoldbecause it steamsup light andairyandalso letsyou tearintoitlayerbylayer.Thefoldmaylookcomplicated,butit’sreallyassimpleasstackingafewstripsofdoughontopofoneanotherandtyingthemoff intoaknot.Turmericoilandasprinklingofsalthelptoenhancethenaturalsweetnessofthewholewheat.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheFan-KnotFold.

FortheDumplings

1 cup warm water, preferably nonchlorinated, such as distilled or springwater¼teaspoonsugar1¼teaspoonsactivedryyeast(about½packet)11/3cupswholewheatflour2/3cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting½teaspoonbakingpowder

FortheGlaze

½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil

ForCooking

Grapeseedorotherneutraloiltocoatthesteamerbasket

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1. PROOF THE YEAST:Pour thewarmwater intoasmallbowl, stir in thesugarand theyeast,andprooffor15minutes.Thesurfaceshouldbecomefoamy.Ifnot,startagainwithanewyeastpacket.

2.MAKETHEDOUGH:Whiletheyeastproofs,combinethefloursinalargebowl.Scoopout¼cupandsetaside.Mixinthebakingpowder.Pourintheyeastywaterandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoone manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of thereservedflourmixture,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor4to5minutes.Thedoughwillbesoftandtacky.Returnthedoughtothebowl,coverwithadampkitchentowel,andsetasideinawarmplacefor1½to2hours.Thedoughwilldoubleinsize.Use theProofingPot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is notideal.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthetingmomo,reviewtheFan-KnotFold.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleall-purposeflour.

6.Punchdownthedough,placeonaflouredsurface,andkneadonceortwice.Sprinklewithflourifitgetsalittlesticky.Dividethedoughinhalf,thenshapeonepieceintoabluntlog.Rollitoutintoan8×12-inchrectangleabout1/8inchthick.Cutthedoughintostripsevery¾inchalongthe8-inchside.Youwillhave

16strips.

7.Stack4doughstripsontopofeachother.Theydon’tneedtolineupexactly.Bendthedoughstripsaroundintoaloop,andpushoneendofthestackthroughtheloop,creatingasimpleknot.Gentlyfanoutornudgeapartthestripstomakethelayersmoreapparent,tuckinanylooseends,andplaceonthepreparedtray.If youare short a stripor two,usewhatyouhave.Repeatwith the remainingdough.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS:Remove thebasket froma large steamerpot, add2 inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Coatthebottomofthebasketwithoilandarrangeasmanyoftheknottedbuns,about1inchapart,asyoucan.

9.Combinetheturmeric,salt,andoilinasmallbowl.Brushathincoatingoftheturmericoilovereachbun.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium-high,andsteamfor15minutes.

10.Remove the pot from the heat.Carefully remove the basket, place it on afoldedkitchentowel,andallowthetingmomotocoolslightly.Placethemonaplate andkeepwarm.Cookany remainingbunsand serve.Tingmomo canberefrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (seeTIPS) for up to 6months.ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(TIPS).Ifreheatingfrozentingmomo,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

SteamedBreadLoavesStuffedwithStickyFriedRiceNuoMiJuan(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES2DUMPLINGS)

Stuffed inside this soft, slightly sweet dough is a filling of chewy sticky riceseasonedwithbitsofdriedsausage,shrimp,andshallots.Ifitseemspeculiartoyouatfirsttoeatasteamedbunthat’sstuffedwithrice,you’llsoonappreciatethe unique balance of flavors and textures. Slices of this traditional dim sumofferingalsomakeanexcellentsnack.

FortheDough

1recipeMantou (SteamedBreadRolls)dough,preferablymadewhilethericeissteamingbutnomorethan2hoursinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheFilling

1 cup short-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice, preferably from China orJapan,rinsed(seeGLOSSARYOFINGREDIENTS)10to12smallormediumdriedshrimp,soakedinhotwatertocoverfor30minutes¼cupgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1linkChineseporksausage(lachang),choppedfine2scallions,slicedintothinrings1tablespoonsoysauce1teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot24-inchsquareofmuslin

1.STEAM THE RICE:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,wringitout,andthendrapeitinsidethebasket,creatingalining.Scoopthericeintothelinedbasketandspreaditoutevenly.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor40minutes.Every10minutes,drizzle1/3cupwaterovertherice,mixgently,coveragain,andcontinuesteaming.

2.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowelandsetasidetocool.

3.COOK THE FILLING:Drainandfinelychoptheshrimp.Oncethericehascooled,heattheoilinalargeskilletoverhighheat.Addthesausage,shrimp,andscallionandstircontinuouslyfor1minute.Addthecooledriceandbreakupclumpswithawoodenspoon. Immediatelyadd thesoysauceandmix in thesaltandpepper.Stirvigorouslyuntilcombined.Movethericeontoalargeplateandspreaditouttocool to roomtemperature. (Youcanmake the filling inadvanceandkeep ittightlywrappedintherefrigeratorforupto3days.)

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthecooledrice.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface and divide it in half.Shape one piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 6 × 9-inch rectangle.Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.

6.Divide thecooled ricemixture inhalfand,withwethands, shapeeachhalfinto an 8-inch-long log. Center the rice log, lengthwise, on top of the dough.Pickuponesideofthedough,thentheother,sothattheiredgescanmeetontop

of the rice log. Pinch the edges of the dough together to seal while gentlypressing out any air, then pinch and seal the loaf at each open end. The ricefilling should be completely surrounded by dough. Place the assembleddumplingonthepreparedtrayandrepeatwiththeremainingdoughandrice.

7.STEAM THE DUMPLINGS:Remove thebasket fromthesteamerpot,coat thebasketwithoil,andarrangethe2loavesinthebasket,seamsidedown,leavingatleast1½inchesofspacebetweenthem.Setasideinawarmplaceandallowthemtorisefor10minutes.

8.Meanwhile,add2inchesofwatertothesteamerpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium-high,andsteamfor20minutes.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on afoldedkitchentowel,andallowtheloavestocoolslightly.Movethemtoalargeplate,cuttheminto2-inchslices,andserve.Nuomijuancanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozen(seeTIPS)forupto6months.ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(TIPS).Ifreheatingfrozennuomijuan,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithHamKroppkakor(Sweden)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

These potato dumplings are a wonderful way to use up a small amount ofleftover ham. Sautéed with onions and allspice, the ham becomes a flavorfulstuffing inside a hearty potato shell made from amixture of raw and cookedpotatoes.Servethemupwiththetraditionalsideoflingonberryjam.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBowlFold.

FortheFilling

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1smallyellowonion,choppedfine½poundunsmokedsalt-curedham,cutinto¼-inchcubes½teaspoongroundallspice

FortheDough

4mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset1teaspoonsalt½cupunbleachedall-purposeflouror¼cupall-purposeflourmixedwith¼cupbarleyflour1largeegg,beatenUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheTopping

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeserving½cuplingonberryjam

1.MAKE THE FILLING:Melt the 2 tablespoons butter in amedium skillet overmediumheat.Add theonionand stir frequentlyuntil soft, about4minutes.Mix in theham and allspice and continue stirring until both ham and onion are justbeginningtobrown,about2minutes.Removefromtheheat,scoopthemixtureintoabowl,andsetasidetocool.

2.MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 2 of the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enoughwater tocover,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmeruntil fork-tender, about 30minutes.Drain andplace thepotatoes on afoldedkitchentowel.Oncetheyarecoolenoughtohandle,peeloff theirskinsandputthefleshinalargebowl.Mashuntilmostlysmooth.

3.Peel the2 rawpotatoes andgrate them through the finerholesofyourboxgrater onto a kitchen towel. Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist tosqueezeoutasmuchofthepotatojuiceasyoucan.Dothisstepinbatchesifitseemsmoreeffective.

4.Addthegratedpotatotothemashedpotatoalongwiththesaltand¼cupoftheflourorflourmixture,keepingtheremaining¼cupofflourhandy.Tosswithyourfingersuntilwellmixed.Addtheeggandworkitintothemixtureuntilyouhave amoist dough, about 2minutes.This doughneeds to be firm enough toholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifitistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthekroppkakor,reviewtheBowlFold.

6.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythepotatodoughandthecooledhammixture.

7.Fillamediumpothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.

8.Meanwhile,placethedoughonaflouredsurface.Useyourhandstorollthelogbackandforthuntilit’s12incheslong.Cuttheloginto8equalpieces,rolleachpieceintoaball,dustwithflour,andplaceonthepreparedtray.Oncethewaterisboiling,reducetheheattoverylowtokeepithotwhileyouassemblethedumplings.

9.Pickuponedoughballanduseyourthumbstoshapeit intoabowlabout2inchesdeep.Thiswillbeawidebowlthatisbestsupportedinthepalmofyourhand. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl.Close by pushing and pinching the edges of the dough around and over thefillinguntilthefillingissurrounded,pushingoutanyair.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.Rerollintoaball,dustwithmoreflour,andplacebackonthetray.

10.COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Onceall thedumplingshavebeenassembled,bring thewaterbacktoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Carefullydropthedumplings,onebyone,intothewater.Coverandsimmerfor10minutes,stirringoccasionallytopreventsticking.

11.Remove the kroppkakorwith a slotted spoon and place them in a shallowservingbowl.Drizzlewiththemeltedbutterandservewithlingonberryjam.

SilesianPotatoDumplingswithMushroomSauceKl uski lskie(Poland)SERVES4(MAKESABOUT35DUMPLINGS)

Kluskiarepotatodumplingswithauniqueshapethatmakesitpossibleforthemtocookevenlydespite their largesize.A thumbprint ispresseddeep into theircenterstoallowthemtocookquickly.Thesedumplingsaretraditionallyservedwithmeltedbutter,friedbreadcrumbs,orarichmushroomsauce.

FortheSauce

½ouncedriedmushrooms,preferablyporcini,soakedin1½cupshotwaterfor30minutes3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks1smallyellowonion,choppedfine4ouncesfreshmushrooms,suchascreminioroyster,slicedthin1tablespoonunbleachedall-purposeflour½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupsourcream¼cupfinelychoppedfreshchives

FortheDumplings

3mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset1½teaspoonssalt1¾cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1largeegg,beaten

Equipment

PotatoricerLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKE THE SAUCE:Fishout the soakedmushroomswithyour fingers, squeezing theexcess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside and finely chop themushrooms.Strainallofthesoakingliquidandsetaside.

2.Meltthebutterinasmallpotovermediumheat.Addtheonionandstiruntilsoft,about4minutes.Mixinthefreshandthesoakedmushroomsandcookfor3minuteslonger,stirringoccasionally.Sprinkleinthe1tablespoonflourandstiruntilcombined.

3. Pour in the reserved soaking liquid and scrape up any sticky bits from thebottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Stir in the ½ teaspoon salt and thepepper.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor30minutes.Removethepotfromtheheatandsetaside.(Youcanmakethesauceupto3daysinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainer.)

4.MAKETHEDOUGH:Whilethesauceissimmering,placethepotatoesinapot,pourinenoughwatertocoverthem,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmeruntilfork-tender,about30minutes.Drainandplacethepotatoesonafoldedkitchentowel.Oncethey’recoolenoughtohandle,peelofftheirskins,cutthepotatoesintochunks,andpressthemthroughthericerintoalargebowl.

5. Sprinkle the 1½ teaspoons salt and 1½ cups of the flour over the potato,keeping the remaining¼ cup of flour handy, and tosswith your fingers untilmixed evenly. Add the egg and work the dough with your hands into onemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandgooey,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.Kneadthedoughinthebowlforabout1minute.Thedoughwillbesoftandjustalittlesticky.

6.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

7.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollintoaballabout1½inchesaround.Push your thumb into the center, without poking through, to create a deepdimple,andplaceonthepreparedtray.

8.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepotthree-quartersofthewaywithsaltedwater,placeover high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium for a steadysimmer.Gentlydrophalfofthedumplings,afewatatime,intothewater.Stircarefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 4minutes,thencookfor2minuteslonger.

9.Removethedumplingswithaslottedspoon,placetheminthelargebowl,anddrizzlewithaladleofthecookingliquidtopreventsticking.Cooktheremainingdumplingsandplaceinthebowlwithanotherladleofthecookingliquid.

10. Reheat the mushroom sauce, stirring occasionally, over medium heat.Reduce the heat to low, add the sour cream, and cook for 2minutes, stirringcontinuously.Drainthekluskiandturnthemintothemushroomsauce.Tossandstirthekluski in thesauce,mix in thechoppedchives,simmerfor1minute toheatthrough,andserve.

ChestnutGnocchiwithWalnutSauceGnocchidiCastagneconSalsadiNoci(Italy)SERVES4TO6

Chestnutflourgivestheseotherwisestandardpotatognocchianuttyandslightlybittersweetflavorthatbecomesmellowandfragrantwhentheyaresmotheredinawalnutsauce.Thisparticularwalnutsauceisaplainwhitesauce(besciamella)flavoredwithfreshwalnutpaste.Peelingthemembranelikeskinsoffthewalnuthalvestakesacoupleofminutes,butitiswellworththeextraeffortandcreatesasweetersauce.

Chestnut flour is made from small garessina chestnuts, which are quitedifferentfromthelarger,morecommonmarronichestnuts.Itisaseasonalflourthatismostlyavailableinthewinterandisbestkeptinthefreezerbecauseofitshighfatcontent.

FortheSauce*

1cuprawwalnuthalves4garliccloves,choppedcoarse¼cupoliveoil1½tablespoonsunsaltedbutter2tablespoonsunbleachedall-purposeflour1¾cupsmilk½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupcoarselychoppedfreshmarjoramleaves½cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese

FortheDumplings

3mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset¾cupchestnutflour½cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1teaspoonsalt

Equipment

PotatoricerGnocchiboard(optional)Largeplateortraytoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.PREPARETHEWALNUTS:Fillasmallsaucepanhalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.Addthenutsandsimmerfor10minutes.Removethenutsfromtheheat,drain,andrunundercoldwateruntilcool.Peelofftheskinsasbestyoucan.(Wefoundstartinginthecenterofthenutmadeitalittleeasier.)Placethepeelednutsinabowlandsetaside.

2.MAKE THE DOUGH:Place thepotatoes inasmallpot,pour inenoughwater tocover,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmeruntil fork-tender, about 30minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a foldedkitchen towel.Once theyarecoolenough tohandle,peeloff anddiscard theirskins,breakthemintochunks,andthenpressthroughthericerintoalargebowl.

3.Combinethefloursinasmallbowl.Scoopout¼cupandsetaside.Addthe1teaspoon salt and the remaining flour mixture to the potato. Toss with yourfingers untilmixed evenly.Drizzle in 1/3 cupwater andwork the doughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughistoowetandsticky,workinsomeofthereservedflourmixture,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.Kneadthedoughinthebowlforabout1minute.Thedoughwillbesoftandslightlysticky.

4.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

5.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equalpieces,andset7ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Rolltheremainingpieceofdoughintoaropeabout½inchthick.Cuttheropeinto¾-inchlengths.

6.Ifyoudon’twantridgesonyourgnocchi,placethecutdoughpiecesonthepreparedtrayinasinglelayer.Ifyoudowantridges,rolleachpiecealongthegnocchiboardoralongthetinesofafork.Rollthepiecealongthebackofthefork to avoid catching it on the ends of the tines.Arrange the gnocchi in onelayeronthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

7.Coverandplacethetrayofdumplingsintherefrigeratorwhileyoumakethesauce.Setasidethenumberofdumplingsthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTIPS).

8.MAKE THE SAUCE:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Onceitcomestoaboil,reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

9. Meanwhile, pulse the walnuts and the garlic in a food processor until thewalnutsarewellbrokenapart.Continuetoprocesswhileslowlydrizzlingintheoiluntilthemixturebecomesathick,grainypaste.Scrapedownthesidesoftheprocessorbowlandscoopthepasteintoabowl.

10.Meltthebutterinamediumpotoverlowheat,addthe2tablespoonsflour,andstircontinuouslyfor3minutes.Pourthemilkinslowly,whiskingconstantly.Once themixture is smooth, raise the heat tomedium and bring to a simmer.Mix in the walnut paste, ½ teaspoon salt, and the pepper and simmer for 1minute longer.Cover and reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the saucewarmwhilecookingthegnocchi.(Youcanalsomakethesauceupto3daysinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainer.)

11.COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Bringthewaterbacktoaboiloverhighheat, thenreducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Carefullydropafewdozengnocchi,afewatatime,intothewater.Cookuntilthegnocchifloattothesurfaceofthewater,about2minutes,thencookfor2minuteslonger.(Ifcookingfrozengnocchi,add

them directly into the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1minute.Donotallowthegnocchitothawbeforecooking.

12.Removethegnocchiwithaslottedspoon,scatterthemonthelargeplateortray,anddrizzlewithafewspoonfulsofthecookingliquidtopreventsticking.Resting thecookedgnocchionaroomyplateprevents themfrompilinguponeach otherwhile they set and firm up a bit. Cook the remaining gnocchi andplace themon the platewith another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid.Setaside½cupofthecookingliquidforthesauce.

13.Onceall thegnocchihavebeencooked, return thesauce toa simmerovermediumheat.Drainthegnocchi,mixthemintothesauce,andcookfor1minuteto warm through. If the sauce is a little thick, stir in some of the reservedcooking liquid.Remove from theheat, stir in themarjoramand theParmesan,andserve.

PanfriedDumplingsStuffedwithChickenandMushroomsJiaoZi(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT32DUMPLINGS)

Most versions of these pot sticker dumplings are stuffed with a pork-basedfilling,butthisone,madewithchickenandmushrooms,isespeciallydelicious.The pairing of dark-meat chicken and dried shiitake mushrooms is distinctlyChinese(seeNuoMiJuan,February),and itgives thesedumplingsa fragrant,gamytaste.If theporkdumplingsarewhatyoucrave,however,youcanmakethisrecipeusingthefillingfromtheZhuRouBaozi(May).

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingthePleatedHalf-MoonFold,butyoucanalsousethesimplerStandingHalf-MoonFold.

FortheDough

2¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1tablespoongrapeseedorotherneutraloil

FortheFilling

3dried shiitakeorblackmushrooms, soaked inhotwater tocover for30minutes2boneless,skinlesschickenthighs(about½pound),choppedfine5 to 6 fresh water chestnuts, peeled and chopped fine, or canned waterchestnuts,drainedandchoppedfine2scallions,trimmedandslicedintothinrings1teaspoongratedfreshginger1teaspooncornstarch

2tablespoonssoysauce1teaspoonricewine1tablespoontoastedsesameoil½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper

ForCookingandServing

Grapeseedorotherneutraloiltocoatalargeskillet1cupwatermixedwith1teaspoonunbleachedall-purposeflour1recipeSoy-VinegarSauce*(recipefollows)

Equipment

3¼-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,preferablynonstickskilletwithcover

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place2cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cup handy.Add the oil and 1 cupwater andmix until all the liquid has beenabsorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If thedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

2.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor2to3minutes.Thedoughwillbesomewhatfirmandelastic.Coatthedoughwithalittleoil,returnittothebowl,coverwithacleankitchentowel,andletitrestfor30minutes.

3.MAKETHEFILLING:Whilethedoughisresting,drainthemushroomsandsqueezeoutany excess liquid. Remove and discard the stems, finely chop the mushroomcaps,andplacetheminamediumbowlalongwiththeotherfillingingredients.Mix together well and keep refrigerated until you are ready to assemble thedumplings.

4.ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS:Beforeassembling the jiaozi,reviewthePleatedHalf-MoonFold.

5. Line a traywith a kitchen towel and sprinklewith a little flour.Also havereadythedoughandthefilling.

6.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaball,thenrollitoutuntilabout1/8inchthick.Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

7.Using thecookiecutter, cutoutasmany roundsasyoucan,usually7or8.Collecttheleftoverdoughandputitasideunderadampkitchentowelforlateruse.

8.Pickup1doughroundandpleatandpinchoneside.Thiswillpulltheroundinto a bowl shape. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center. Bringtogethertheedges,pushingoutanyair,andpinchalongthetopofthedumplingtoseal.Place thedumpling,pleatedsideup,on theprepared tray.Repeatwiththeremainingroundsandfilling.Keeptheassembleddumplingsinasinglelayeronthetray,coveredwithakitchentowelasyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthe first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.Combineallthedoughscraps,kneadthemintoaball,rollitout,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,andfillandfoldthosetoo.

9.Setasidethenumberofdumplingsthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTIPS).

10.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Generouslycoatalargeskilletwithoilandheatitovermediumheat.Arrange the dumplings in the pan, pleated side up, leaving a little spacearoundeach.Cookuntilthebottomsjustbegintobrown.Chooseanemptyspotin thepanandpour inenoughof the flourandwatermixture to reachaboutathird of the way up the sides of the dumplings. Cover and simmer for 10

minutes.(Ifcookingfrozenjiaozi,addthemdirectlytotheoilandincreasethecookingtimeby3minutes.Donotallowthedumplingstothawbeforecooking.)

11. Remove the cover so that any remaining liquid can cook off completely.Continuecookinguntilyouhearastrongsizzlingsoundandthebottomsofthedumplingsaregoldenbrownandcrisp.

12.Remove the jiaoziwith a small spatula and place themon a plate. Serveimmediatelywhileyoucookanyremainingjiaozi.ServewiththeSoy-VinegarSauce.

SOY-VINEGARSAUCE

MAKESABOUT½CUP

¼cupsoysauce3tablespoonsricevinegar2teaspoonssugar1teaspoontoastedsesameoil1tablespoonfinelychoppedscallion

Combinethesoysauce,ricevinegar,sugar,andsesameoilinasmallbowl.Stiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Pourintosmalldippingbowlsandaddthescallionjustbeforeusing.Thissaucewillkeepforupto1weekintherefrigeratorinatightlysealedcontainer.

March

STEAMEDCORNBREAD

(UnitedStates)

SWEETPOTATODUMPLINGSWITHAMELTEDSUGARCENTER

Onde-Onde(Malaysia)

TINYGNOCCHIANDCRANBERRYBEANSTEW

PisareieFaso(Italy)

CAULIFLOWERSOUPWITHBUTTERYBREADCRUMBDUMPLINGS

Kv tákováPolévkasKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)

COCKLESWITHRICEDUMPLINGSINASPICYCOCONUTSAUCE

KubeMutli(India)

CHICKPEADUMPLINGSINTOMATOSAUCE

ChanaVadakiTomatochiBhaji(India)

KASHAANDMUSHROOMPIEROGI

PierogizKaszGryczan (Poland)

RICEDUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHPORKANDKOHLRABI

FenGuo(China)

SteamedCornBread

(UnitedStates)

SERVES6TO8(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Steamingcornbreadinsteadofbakingitmakesitespeciallymoistandflavorful.Youcanstirsomecornkernelsintothebatterforachunkiertextureandanevendeeper corn taste. Serve it upwith somebutter for a scrumptious side dish orsnack.Andaswithbakedcornbread,anyleftoverscanbeusedtomakestuffingorbreadpudding.

FortheDumpling

1cupcoarseyellowcornmeal1/3cupunbleachedall-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingpowder¾teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1largeegg,beaten1cupmilk2 tablespoons lightmuscovadoorotherunrefinedsugar (seeGLOSSARYOFINGREDIENTS)2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted½cupfreshcornkernelsorfrozen,thawed(optional)

ForCooking

Unsaltedbuttertocoatthecakepan

Equipment

2-inch-highsteamerrack9-inchroundcakepanPotlargeenoughtoholdboththerackandthepanwhencovered

1.Placethesteamerrackinthepot,add1½inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Meanwhile,rubalittlebutteraroundtheinsideof thecakepan.

2.Combinethecornmeal,flour,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,salt,andnutmeginalargebowl.Inanotherbowl,whisktheegg,milk,sugar,andmeltedbutteruntilthesugarhasmostlydissolved.Pourtheeggmixtureintothecornmealmixture,addthecornkernels,ifdesired,andstiruntiljustcombined.Pourthebatterintothepreparedcakepanandwiggleitgentlytolevelitoff.

3.Carefullyplacethefilledcakepanonthesteamerrack,coverthepot,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor25to30minutes.

4.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyliftthepanoutofthepot,placeitonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowthecornbreadtocoolslightly.Sliceandservewarmoratroomtemperature.

SweetPotatoDumplingswithaMeltedSugarCenterOnde-Onde(Malaysia)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

These modest-looking dessert dumplings will surprise you. Inside eachstrawberry-sizeddumplingisawarmsugarcenterthatfloodsyourmouthwithalush,butteryflavor.Makingthesedumplingsmayseemlikeachallenge,butitissurprisinglyeasy.Theballsofdougharestuffedwithasmallpieceoftastypalmsugar,andasthedumplingscook,thesugarmeltsslowlyintosyrup.Ifyoucan’tfindpalmsugar,use jaggeryorpanela (seeGLOSSARYOF INGREDIENTS)instead.Addingmashedsweetpotatotothedoughgivestheonde-ondeitspaleorangecolorandamildfruitflavor.

Thesedumplingsaremadebypushingapieceofsugar intoadoughball,buttheycanalsobemadeusingtheBowlFold.

FortheFilling

2ounceshardpalmsugaror¼cupsoftpalmsugarorotherunrefinedsugar(seeGLOSSARYOFINGREDIENTS)

FortheDough

1smallsweetpotato(about½pound)1¼cupssweet(glutinous)riceflour,preferablyfromMalaysiaorThailand,plussomeextrafordusting3tablespoonspandanwater(recipefollows)or¼teaspoonpandanextractmixedinto3tablespoonswater

ForServing

1cupfreshlygratedcoconut (seeGLOSSARYOFINGREDIENTS),or1cupfrozengratedcoconut,thawed¼teaspoonsalt

Equipment

PotatoricerLarge,widebowltoholdthecookeddumplings

1.MAKETHEFILLING:Dependingonthetypeofpalmsugaryouareusing,youwillneedtocutorrollthesugarintosmall½-inchpieces.Ifusinghardpalmsugar,cutthesugarintosmallpiecesandpickoutasmany½-inchchunksasyoucan.Collectanycrumbsorloosebitsofsugarandpackthemintoballsaboutthesizeofapeabypressingand rubbing thembetweendampfingers. Ifusingsoftpalmsugar,useasmallspoontoscoopupabout¼teaspoonsugarandcompressthesugarintoaballwithyourfingers.Whenyouhave40sugarpiecesorballs,placethemonaplateandsetaside.

2. BOIL THE SWEET POTATO: Place the sweet potato in a small saucepan, pour in enoughwater to cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat tomedium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 20minutes.Drain and place thesweetpotatoonafoldedkitchentowel.Onceit’scoolenoughtohandle,peeloffitsskin,breakitintochunks,andpressthroughthericerintoasmallbowl.

3.Movethesweetpotatoontoacleankitchentowelandpatitdownintoacircleabout6incheswide.Foldthetoweloveroruseapapertoweltosoakupasmuchexcessliquidasyoucan.Turnthesweetpotatobackintothebowl.

4.MAKEANDASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Thisisaverysoftdough,andoftenthesugarpiececanbepushedintothecenterofthedoughball.UsingtheBowlFoldcanhelpmakecenteringthesugareveneasier.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittlericeflour.Alsohavereadythesugarpiecesandallthedoughingredients.

6.Place1cupof the rice flour ina largebowlandkeep the remaining¼cuphandy.Addthesweetpotatoandtosswithyourfingersuntilwellmixed.Addthepandanwateranduseyourhandstoworkthemixtureintoadough.Thisdoughneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifitistoosoftandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.

7. Pinch off a very small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about¾ incharound.Keep the remainingdoughcoveredwithakitchen towel asyouwork.Useyourthumbstoshapeitintoabowl,justlargeenoughtocradleapieceofsugar. Place one piece of sugar in the center of the dough bowl. Close bypushingandpinchingtheedgesofthedougharoundandoverthefillinguntilthesugar is surrounded,pushingoutanyair.Daba littlewateralong theedges, ifneeded, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with flour, and place on thepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

8.COOKANDCOATTHEDUMPLINGS:Spreadthegratedcoconutoutonalargeplateandsprinkleitwiththesalt.

9.Fillalargepothalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Addthedumplingstothewaterafewata timeandstirgently.Cookuntilallof themarefloating,2 to3minutes, thencookfor2minuteslonger.

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Useaslottedspoontoremovethedumplings,place them in the largebowl, anddrizzlewitha ladleof thecooking liquid topreventsticking.

11.Pickup2to6onde-ondeandrollthemaroundonthegratedcoconut.Iftheyareatalldry,dampentheirsurfaceswithyourfingerstoensureanevencoating.

Placethemonaplateandcontinuewiththeremainingonde-onde.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.Onde-ondecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.Allowthemtocomebacktoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

PANDANWATER

MAKES½CUP

20largefreshpandanleaves,orfrozen,thawed,choppedcoarse

1. Pulse thepandan leavesonceor twice in a foodprocessor to start breakingdown their fibers.Add½cupwaterandprocess for2minutes, scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Thepureedpandanbitswillbeveryfibrous,andthewaterwillturnadeepolivegreen.

2.Strain thepandanliquid throughasieve intoasmallbowl.Squeezeoutanyexcesswaterfromthepandanleaves.Measureoutwhatyouneedforyourrecipeandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months.

TinyGnocchiandCranberryBeanStewPisareieFaso(Italy)

SERVES4

Apotofstewedbeansbecomesanunusualanddelectabledishwhenmixedwithanequalquantityoftenderyetchewybean-sizeddumplings.Youcanservethisdish as a side or as a meal with a simple salad. Such a large number ofdumplingsmaytakealittleextratimetorolloutandcut,butthey’reworththeeffort. You may choose to curl the pisarei by gently pressing and slightlysquishing each one along your work surface. This optional step gives thedumplingadimple,whichallowsmoresaucetoclingtoit.

FortheStew

1½cupsdriedcranberrybeans(borlotti)orpintobeans,soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hoursor3cupscanned2tablespoonsoliveoil¼poundpancettaor4stripsbacon,choppedfine(about½cup)1mediumyellowonion,choppedfine1mediumcarrot,choppedfine1celeryrib,choppedfine1tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshrosemaryor1teaspoondried½cupcoarselychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves3garliccloves,choppedfine4ripeplumtomatoes,peeled(seeGlossaryofIngredients)andcrushed,or4cannedplumtomatoes,drainedandcrushed(about1cup)1tablespoontomatopaste1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

¼cupcoarselychoppedfreshbasilleaves½cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese

FortheDumplings

2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting¾cupcoarsedrycrustlesswhitebreadcrumbs(seeGlossaryofIngredients)½teaspoonsalt

Equipment

Large,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHESTEW:Drainthebeans.Heattheoilinamediumpotovermediumheatandaddthepancetta.Stiroccasionallyandcookuntiljustbeginningtocrisp,about2minutes.Mixintheonion,carrot,celery,androsemaryandstirfrequentlyuntiltheonionissoft,about4minutes.Stirintheparsleyandgarlicandcookfor2minutes longer.Pour in5 cupswater. Immediately stir in thebeans, tomatoes,tomatopaste,1teaspoonsalt,andthepepper.Raisetheheattohighandbringtoaboil.Cover, reduce theheat to low, andcook, stirringoccasionally, until thebeansarefork-tender,1½to2hours.(Youcanalsomakethestewupto3daysinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainer.Ifthestewistoothicktostireasily,addalittlewatertothinitout.)

2.MAKETHEDOUGH:Whilethestewissimmering,place1¾cupsoftheflourinalargeheatproofbowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addthebreadcrumbsandthe½teaspoonsaltandmixwell.

3.Heat¾cupwaterinasmallsaucepanovermediumheatuntilitishottothetouchbutnotclosetosimmering.Pourthehotwaterintotheflourmixtureandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Letthedoughcoolslightly.

4. Carefullywork the doughwith your hands. If this is uncomfortable in any

way, let it cool for anotherminute or two, but keep inmind that you need toworkwith this doughwhile it is still very, verywarm.Work thedough in thebowlintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughistoowetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

5.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor3to4minutes.Coverandletrestfor15minutesatroomtemperature.

6.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

7.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equalpieces,andset7ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Rolltheremainingpieceintoaropeabout¼inchthick,andcutitinto½-inchpieces.

8.Ifyoudon’twanttocurlthedumplings,placethecutdoughpiecesinasinglelayeronthepreparedtray.Ifyoudowanttocurlthem,pushyourfingerintothecenterofacutpieceofdoughandgentlysquishandrollittowardyoujustlongenoughtocreateadeepdimpleorafat“C”shape.Placeinasinglelayeronthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.Onceallthepisareihavebeencut,cover themwithakitchentowelandrefrigerateuntilyouarereadytoaddthemtothestew.

9.Oncethestewhascookedfor1½to2hours,thelevelofthesauceshouldbeslightlybelowthebeans.Giveitagoodstirandmixinalittlewaterifthereisnotenoughsauce.Coverandreducetheheattovery,verylowtokeepthestewhotuntilit’stimetoaddthedumplings.

10. COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Fill a largepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

11. Move half of the dumplings onto a plate, slide them into the simmeringwater, and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of the dumplings arefloating,about2minutes.

12.Remove thedumplingswithaslottedspoon,place themin the largebowl,drizzle themwith a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook theremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquid.Reserve1cupofthecookingliquid.

13.Drainthedumplingsandmixthemintothestew.Ifthestewistoothicktostireasily,mixinsomeofthereservedcookingliquid.Raisetheheattomediumandheatthroughfor1to2minutes.Removefromtheheat,stirinthebasilandParmesan,andserve.

CauliflowerSoupwithButteryBreadCrumbDumplings

Kv tákováPolévkasKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)SERVES4(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

Thiseasy,no-frillscauliflowersoupisgrandwhenit’scoldoutside.Thegrape-sizedbreaddumplings cookupquickly and soakup a good amount of flavor.They’re firmbut not chewy, like softmeatballs, and they add a certain robustcharactertothesoup.

FortheSoup

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks2 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, rinsed and choppedcoarse2largeparsnips,peeledandcutinto½-inchrounds1smallturnip,peeledandcutinto½-inchcubes½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg2tablespoonsunbleachedall-purposeflour1½teaspoonssalt1smallcauliflower,coredandcutintosmallflorets1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshdill

FortheDumplings

1¼cupsfinedrycrustlesswhitebreadcrumbs(seeGlossaryofIngredients)1tablespoonunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting¼teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted2largeeggs,beaten

2tablespoonsmilkorwater2teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshdill

1.MAKE THE SOUP:Meltthe3tablespoonsbutterinamediumpotoverlowheat.Addtheleeksandstirfrequentlyuntilverysoft,about10minutes.Iftheleekslookdryor begin to sizzle as they cook, stir in a littlewater to prevent them frombrowning. Mix in the parsnips, turnip, and nutmeg, then sprinkle in the 2tablespoonsflourandcookfor2minutes,stirringconstantly.

2.Pourin6cupswater,addthe1½teaspoonssalt,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes, stirringoccasionally.

3.MAKETHEDOUGH:Whilethesoupissimmering,place1cupofthebreadcrumbsinamediumbowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Mixthe1tablespoonflourandthe¼teaspoonsaltintothebreadcrumbs.Inanotherbowl,whisktogetherthemeltedbutter,eggs,milk,and2teaspoonsofthedill.Addtheeggmixturetothe bread crumbmixture andmix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Thisdoughneeds tobe firmenough tohold its shapewhen rolled intoballs. If thedoughistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingbreadcrumbs,alittleatatime.Coverandrefrigeratefor20minutes.

4.Oncethesouphassimmeredfor30minutes,stirinthecauliflower,cover,andsimmerfor30minuteslonger.Reducetheheattovery,verylowtokeepthesouphotuntilit’stimetoaddthedumplings.(Youcanalsomakethesoupinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

5.MAKEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

6.Fillamediumpothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

7.Whilewaiting for thewater tocome toaboil, start rollingyourdumplings.Pinchoff avery smallpieceofdough, roll it intoaball about¾ incharound,dust it with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remainingdough. This is a soft dough, so balls may not hold their shape perfectly,especiallyasthebutterinthedoughbeginstowarm.

8. Drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stiroccasionally.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,about1minute,thencookfor1minutelonger.

9. Remove the dumplingswith a slotted spoon and place them directly in thesoup.Removefromtheheat,stirintheremaining1tablespoondill,andserve.

CockleswithRiceDumplingsinaSpicyCoconutSauceKubeMutli(India)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

Thisoutstandingshellfishstewisutterlysumptuousbecauseitisfullofplump,nibbly dumplings made from freshly ground basmati rice. Making thesedumplingsfromscratchinvolvesthreeseparatesteps:grindingthericeinaspicegrinder,partiallycookingthericeinjustenoughliquidtoformastickydough,andfinally,rollingthedoughintoballsandsteamingthembeforedroppingtheminto thestew.Itsounds likea lotofwork,buteveryoneof thesesteps iseasyandnearlyimpossibletomessup.Ifcocklesarenotavailable,youcanuseanyothertypeofsmallclam.

FortheCoconutSpiceMixture

2/3 cup freshly grated and dried coconut (seeGlossary of Ingredients) orunsweeteneddriedgratedcoconut1½tablespoonscorianderseeds1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds1teaspoonblackpeppercorns2to3smalldriedhotredchiles,suchasKashmiriorlalmirch,toughertopendscutoff

FortheDumplings

1½ cupswhite basmati or other long-grain rice, finely ground in a cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder,or1½cupspregroundrice(ricesooji,ricerava,or

idlirava)1teaspoonsaltWhitericeflourfordusting

FortheStew

2 tablespoons ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such asgrapeseed1largeyellowonion,cutinhalfandslicedthin2garliccloves,choppedveryfine2cupsfreshcoconutmilk(seeGlossaryofIngredients)or2cupsmeasuredfromone14-ouncecancoconutmilkmixedwith1cupwater2teaspoonsgroundturmeric1tablespoontamarindpaste½teaspoonsalt3 pounds fresh cockles or other very small clams, scrubbed clean undercold runningwaterandkepton ice (discardanycockles thatdonotclosewhenyoutapthem)

Equipment

Cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder8-to10-quartsteamerpot24-inchsquareofmuslinLargeplateortraytoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHECOCONUTSPICEMIXTURE:Combinealltheingredientsforthecoconutspicemixturein a medium skillet over medium heat. Shake and stir the coconut mixturecontinuouslyuntilthecoconutislightlybrowned,5to6minutes.Removefromtheheat, scoop intoa shallowbowl,andallow it tocool to room temperature.Oncecooled,grindinthespicegrinderuntilyouhaveacoarsepowderandsetaside. (You can make the coconut spice mixture in advance and keep itrefrigeratedinatightlysealedglasscontainerforupto1month.)

2.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Placethegroundriceandthe1teaspoonsaltinalargesaucepan.Pour in2cupswaterandplaceovermediumheat.Cook,stirringcontinuously,untilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbedandthemixturethickensintoasoftdoughthat pulls away from the sides of the pot, about 5minutes. Remove from theheat,movethedoughintoabowl,andallowittocoolslightly.

3.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittlericeflour.

4.Whileitisstillwarm,pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1 incharound,dustwith flour, andplace iton theprepared tray.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

5.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add1inchofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,wringitout,thendrapeitinsidethebasket,creatingalining.Arrangeasmanydumplings in the lined basket as you can fitwithout their touching. Place thebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor15minutes.

6.MAKE THE STEW:Whilethedumplingsaresteaming,meltthegheeinamediumpotovermediumheat.Addtheonionandstirfrequentlyuntilsoft,about4minutes.Addthegarlicandthecoconutspicemixtureandstiruntilthemixtureisgoldenbrown. Pour in the coconut milk and 2 cups water, then stir in the turmeric,tamarindpaste,and½teaspoonsalt.Bringtoasimmerovermedium-lowheat,thenreducetheheattolow,andkeepcovereduntilthedumplingsarereadytobeadded.Ifusingfreshcoconutmilk,donotletitcometoaboil,oritwillseparateintowhatlookslikeasuperfinecurdleandyouwillhavetostartthestewover.

7. Once the dumplings have cooked, remove the steamer pot from the heat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Arrangethedumplingsinasinglelayeronthelargeplateortray,lightlysprinklethemwithafewspoonfulsofwatertopreventsticking,andcoverwithakitchentowel.Cookany remaining dumplings and place them on the plate with another fewspoonfulsofwater.Onceall thedumplingshavebeencookedandarrangedontheplate,keepthemcovereduntilit’stimetoaddthemtothestew.

8. FINISH THE STEW: Bring the stew back to a simmer overmedium heat. Stir in thedumplings, thengentlystir inthecockles,cover,andcookuntilall thecockleshaveopened,about5minutes,andserve.

ChickpeaDumplingsinTomatoSauceChanaVadakiTomatochiBhaji(India)SERVES2TO4(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

Madefromasmallchickpealikebean(chanadal), thesedumplings, likemanyotherdumplingsfromNorthIndia,arefriedbeforebeingaddedtoasimmeringsauce.Containingnoegg,flour,orotherbinder,theywouldfallapartwithoutthecrispyskinthatfryinggives them.Oncetheyhavebeensimmeredin thismildandtangytomatosauce,theybecometenderandmoredelicate.

FortheDumplings

½cupchanadal(atypeofdriedsplitchickpea),soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hours2 to 3 small hot green chiles, such asKashmiri or lalmirch, seeded andchoppedfine1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshcilantroleaves1/8teaspoonbakingpowder1teaspoonsalt8to10largefreshspinachleaves,stemmed

ForCooking

Grapeseedorotherneutraloilwithahighsmokingpointforshallowfrying

FortheSauce

¼cupgrapeseedorotherneutraloil

1largeonion,cutinhalfandslicedthin1teaspoonfreshlygroundcumin2teaspoonscorianderseeds,freshlyground1tablespoonfinelygratedfreshginger3garliccloves,choppedfine3plumtomatoes,choppedcoarse1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonchilepowder,preferablyfromIndia1½teaspoonssalt

ForServing

3tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantroleaves

1.MAKE THE BATTER:Drainthechanadal,place ina foodprocessor,andprocessuntilbrokenintobits,about4minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Continuetopulsewhileaddingupto5tablespoonswater,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveagrittypaste.

2.Scoopthebatterintoamediumbowl.Stirinthechiles,1tablespooncilantro,thebakingpowder,and1teaspoonsalt.Stackthespinachleavesandroll themupintoacigarshape.Thinlyslicetherolledleavesandmixthemintothebatter.

3.MAKE THE DUMPLINGS:Line2 largeplateswithacouple layersofpaper towels.Fillalarge,deepskilletwith1 inchofgrapeseedoilandheatovermediumheat.Tocheck the temperature of the oil, dip the end of a drywooden spoon into thecenterofthepan.Theoilisreadywhenitbubblesactivelyaroundtheedgesofthespoon.

4.Scoopupa rounded teaspoonofbatter.Useanotherspoonoryour finger tomovethebattergentlyoff thespoonandinto theoil.Dropinspoonfulsof theremaining batter, leaving as much space as you can around each. Cook untillightlybrowned,3to4minutes.Carefullyturnthefrittersoverwithaforkandcookuntilgoldenbrown,1to2minuteslonger.

5.Removethefritterswithaslottedspoon,placetheminasinglelayerononeofthepreparedplates,andallowthemtocooltoroomtemperature.

6.Filla largebowlthree-quartersof thewaywithcoldwater.Slide thecooledfritters into thewater and soak for1minute.Usingyourhand, scoop themuponebyoneandgentlyjiggleofftheexcesswater.Placethesoakedfrittersinasinglelayerontheotherpreparedplateandsetaside.

7.MAKETHESAUCEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Heattheoilinamediumpotovermediumheat.Addthe onion. Stir occasionally until the onion begins to brown, about 5minutes.Addthecumin,coriander,ginger,andgarlicandstirfor1minutelonger.Mixinthetomatoes,turmeric,chilepowder,and1½teaspoonssalt.Reducetheheattolow and stir frequently until the tomato softens and breaks apart, about 10minutes.Pourin1quartwater,raisetheheattohigh,andbringtoaboil.Coverandreducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

8.Carefullyarrange the soaked fritters in the simmering sauce, leavinga littlespacebetween them.Coverandcook for10minutes,occasionally shaking thepantopreventsticking.Removefromtheheat.Sprinklewiththe3tablespoonsofcilantroandserve.

KashaandMushroomPierogiPierogizKaszGryczan (Poland)SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

Themeaty tasteof thesevegetarianpierogiwould leadyou to think the fillingincluded some amount of beef, but it’s the combination of kasha (toastedbuckwheat groats) andmushrooms that creates such rich flavors.Kasha has awarmnuttyessence,butbytoastingitonceagaininyourownkitchenyoureviveitandbringoutanevendeeperflavor.It’simportanttousedriedmushroomsinthisrecipebecausetheyhaveamoreintenseflavorthanfresh.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheHalf-MoonFold.

FortheDough

2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1largeegg,beaten3tablespoonssourcream2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted¼cupwarmwater½teaspoonsalt

FortheFilling

1/3cupcoarsekasha½ouncedriedporcinimushrooms,soakedin1cuphotwaterfor1hour2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks1smallyellowonion,choppedfine1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

ForServing*

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeserving½cupfriedbreadcrumbs(seeGlossaryofIngredients)Sourcream

Equipment

2½-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place1¾cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Inanotherbowl,whisktogethertheegg,3tablespoonssourcream,2 tablespoons melted butter, warm water, and ½ teaspoon salt. Add the eggmixture to the flour andmix until all the liquid has been absorbed.Work thedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

2.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor2to3minutes.Thedoughwillbesomewhatfirmandsmooth.Returnthedoughballtothebowl,cover,andletitrestfor30minutes.

3. MAKE THE FILLING: Place the kasha in a small skillet overmedium heat. Toast thegrains,stirringfrequently,untiltheyarenoticeablydarkerincolorandfragrant,8to10minutes.Immediatelymovetoasmallbowltocool.

4. Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers and squeeze the excessliquidback into thebowl.Set the liquidasideandfinelychopthemushrooms.Strainandreserve¾cupofthesoakingliquid.(Ifyouhavelessthan¾cup,addjustenoughwatertomake¾cup.)Pourthesoakingliquidintoasmallpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Stirinthetoastedkasha,cover,reducetheheattolow, and simmer until all the liquid has been absorbed, about 10 minutes.

Removefromtheheat,keepcovered,andsetaside.

5.Melt the 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet overmedium heat.Add theonionandstirfrequentlyuntilsoft,about4minutes.Addthemushroomsandstiruntil theonionisgoldenbrown,about5minutes.Scoopintoafoodprocessor,addthekasha, the1teaspoonsalt,andthepepperandpulseuntil itbecomesacoarsemash.Scoopintoabowlandallowittocooltoroomtemperature.

6.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthepierogi,reviewtheHalf-MoonFold.

7.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

8.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaballandroll itoutuntil it’sabout1/8 inchthick.Sprinklewithflourif itgetssticky.

9.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually8to10.Collect thescrapsfromaround theroundsandputasideunderadampkitchentowelforlateruse.

10.Layflat1to5doughrounds.Brusheachroundwithaverythincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedteaspoonoffillingontopofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.Combineallthedoughscraps,kneadthemintoaball,rollitout,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,andfillandfoldthosetoo.

11.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to

60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

12. COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Fill a largepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

13.Gentlydropupto20dumplings,afewatatime,intothesimmeringwater.Stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3minutes, then cook for 2minutes longer. (If cooking frozenpierogi, add themdirectlytothesimmeringwaterandincreasethecookingtimeby2minutes.Donotallowthepierogitothawbeforecooking.)

14.Remove thedumplingswithaslottedspoon,place themin the largebowl,anddrizzlethemwithaladleofthecookingliquidtopreventsticking.Cooktheremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquidandkeepwarm.

15. Once all the pierogi have been cooked, drain and place them in a large,shallowservingbowl.Drizzlewiththe3tablespoonsmeltedbutterandtopwithfriedbreadcrumbs.Servewithsourcream.

RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandKohlrabiFenGuo(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT32DUMPLINGS)

Fen guo can be made with different fillings, but their common feature is adelicateroundofricedoughwrappedaroundthefreshestingredientsavailable.Thisrecipeincludespork,mushrooms,andkohlrabi.Kohlrabi,whichlooksverymuch like a turnip, has a mild and clean flavor similar to napa cabbage andabsorbsotherflavorsverywell.Itisoftenavailableatsupermarkets,aswellasatcertainAsianmarkets,butifnot,youcaneasilysubstituteasmallturnip,asmalljícama, or a large carrot. Once these dumplings are cooked, they should beservedimmediately,becausetheytendtostiffenuponcecool.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheStandingHalf-MoonFold,butyoucanalsousethemoredetailedPleatedHalf-MoonFold.

FortheFilling

4dried shiitakeorblackmushrooms, soaked inhotwater tocover for30minutes15to20smallormediumdriedshrimp,soakedinhotwatertocoverfor30minutes3tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil½poundbonelessporkloin,choppedfine1linkChineseporksausage(lachang),choppedfine(about1/3cup)1smallkohlrabiorsmallturnip,peeledandchoppedfine(about1½cups)2tablespoonsricewine1tablespoonsoysauce¼teaspoonsugar1/8teaspoonsaltPinchoffreshlygroundwhitepepper

¼cupfinelychoppedfreshcilantrostemsandleaves

FortheDough

2¼cups regularwhite rice flour,preferably fromChinaorThailand,plussomeextrafordusting

ForCookingandServing

Soft lettuceleaves,suchasBoston, to linethesteamerbasketandservingplate1recipeSoy-VinegarSauce

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEFILLING:Drainthemushroomsandsqueezeoutanyexcessliquid.Removeanddiscardthestemsandfinelychopthemushroomcaps.Drainandfinelychoptheshrimp.

2.Heat theoil inamediumskilletoverhighheat.Add thepork, sausage,andshrimp. Stir frequently until the pork is just beginning to brown, about 2minutes.Addthekohlrabiandmushroomsandstiruntilwellcombined.Addtherice wine and scrape up any bits from the bottom of the pan with a woodenspoon. Add the soy sauce, sugar, salt, and pepper and stir vigorously for 1minute longer. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro. Scoop into ashallowbowlandallowittocoolcompletely.(Youcanalsomakethefillinginadvanceandkeepittightlycoveredintherefrigeratorforupto2days.)

3.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place2cupsofthericeflourinalargeheatproofbowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.

4.Heat1cupwaterovermediumheatuntilitishottothetouchbutnotclosetosimmering.Addthehotwatertotheflourandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Letthedoughcoolslightly.

5. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any wayuncomfortable,letitcoolforanotherminuteortwo,butkeepinmindthatyouneedtoworkwiththisdoughwhileitisstillvery,verywarm.Workthedoughinthebowlintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.Keepthedoughcoveredwithatowelwhileassemblingthedumplings.

6.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthefenguo,reviewtheStandingHalf-MoonFold.

7. Line a traywith a kitchen towel and sprinklewith a little rice flour. Havereadytheverywarmdoughandthecooledfilling.

8.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1¼inchesaround.Flattentheballintoathickdiskanddusteachsidewithriceflour.Placethediskon a floured surface and roll it out into a 3-inch round. Center a roundedtablespoonoffillingontopoftheround,folditneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.Holdingthedumplingbytheseam,tapitsbaseonyourworksurfaceuntilitisflatenoughonthebottomtositupright.Placeitonthepreparedtray.Repeatwith the remainingdoughand filling.Keep thedumplings ina single layeronthetraycoveredwithakitchentowelasyouwork.

9.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Linethebasketwithlettuceleaves.Arrangeasmanydumplingsinthebasketasyoucan,spacingthemabout½inchapart.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andcookfor15minutes.

10.Remove the pot from the heat.Carefully remove the basket, place it on afolded kitchen towel, and allow the fen guo to cool slightly. Arrange a fewlettuceleavesonaplate.Useaspoonorasmallspatulatomovethefenguo tothe prepared plate. Serve immediatelywhile you cook any remaining fenguo.ServewithSoy-VinegarSauce.

April

MASABALLSOUP

SopadeBolitasdeMasa(Mexico)

CHICKPEASQUARESTOPPEDWITHMUSTARDSEEDSANDSPICEDOIL

KhamanDhokla(India)

NINE-LAYERCOCONUTTAPIOCACAKE

KhanomChan(Thailand)

SALTY-SWEETBEANPUDDINGSWITHCOCONUTCREAMTOPPING

KhanomThuay(Thailand)

MATZOBALLSINABEEFBROTH

FleischsuppemitMatzoknepfle(France)

CHIVE-STUFFEDDUMPLINGSWITHTOMATOSAUCEANDMINTEDYOGURT

Ashak(Afghanistan)

WHEATDUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHTURMERIC-STAINEDPOTATOES

ShogoMomo(Tibet)

WHEATDUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHBEEFANDONION

ShaMomo(Tibet)

SPICYLAMB-FILLEDDUMPLINGSINATHICKYOGURTSOUP

SheeshBarakbiLaban(Lebanon)

OVEN-SIMMEREDLAMB-FILLEDDUMPLINGSWITHMINTEDYOGURT

Manti(Turkey)

DUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHPORKANDCABBAGE

Mandu(Korea)

MasaBallSoupSopadeBolitasdeMasa(Mexico)SERVES4(MAKESABOUT24DUMPLINGS)

Thesemasaharinadumplings,flavoredwithcheeseandjalapeños,aredelectableinabowlof spicychicken soup.Masaharina is aprocessedmeal availableatMexicanmarkets andmany supermarkets.Because thedough ismadewithoutanybinders,themasaharinaballsmustbefriedbeforebeingcookedinthesoup.Anumberofrecipescallfordeep-frying,butsimilarresultscanbeachievedbyrollingtheballsaroundinaskilletwithonlyasmallamountofoil.QuesoañejoisanagedMexicancheesethatisalsoavailableatMexicanmarketsandatsomesupermarkets.

FortheDumplings

1cupmasaharina,plussomeextrafordusting¼teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonsalt3 tablespoons nonhydrogenated lard or vegetable shortening, at roomtemperature1/3cupChickenBrothwithMexicanFlavors2/3cupfreshlygratedquesoañejoorRomanocheese2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantroleaves1to2jalapeñochiles,seededandchoppedfine

FortheSoup

6cupsChickenBrothwithMexicanFlavors1mediumwhiteonion,choppedcoarse

1garlicclove,peeled2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (Glossary of Ingredients), and choppedcoarse1tablespoondriedMexican(notMediterranean)oregano1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundpasillaoranchochile1cupfreshcornkernels,orfrozen,unthawed¾teaspoonsalt3freshcilantrosprigs,choppedcoarse

ForCooking

Grapeseedorotherneutraloilwithahighsmokingpointforshallowfrying

1.MAKE THE DOUGH: Combine 1 cupmasa harinawith the baking powder and the¼teaspoonsaltinalargebowl.Addthelardandmixuntilwellcombined.Pourinhalfof the1/3cupbrothandstiruntilall the liquidhasbeenabsorbed.Mix inmore broth, one spoonful at a time, until you have a thick, pasty batter. Thisbatterwilljustholditsshapewhenscoopedupwithaspoon.Mixinthequesoañejo,2tablespoonscilantro,andthejalapeño.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast30minutes.Thebatterwillfirmupasitcools,andyouwillhaveasoft,easy-to-shapedough.(Youcanalsomakethedough1dayinadvanceandkeepittightlywrappedintherefrigerator.)

2.MAKE THE DUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittlemasaharina.

3.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdough,roll it intoaballabout1¼inchesaround,dustwithalittlemasaharina,andplaceitonthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

4.Linealargeplatewithacoupleoflayersofpapertowels.Add½inchoiltoamediumskilletandheatovermediumheat.Tocheckthetemperatureoftheoil,dip theendofadrywoodenspooninto thecenterof thepan.Theoil is ready

whenitbubblesactivelyaroundtheedgesofthespoon.

5.Carefullyplace8masaharinaballsintheoil.Gentlyandconstantlyshakethepantokeeptheballsrolling.Thisconstantmovementhelpsthesesoftballskeeptheirshapeandbrownevenly.Keepthepanmovinguntilthey’regoldenbrown,4to5minutes.Usingaslottedspoon,carefullymovethemtothepreparedplate.Cooktheremainingmasaharinaballs,addingmoreoilaftereachbatch.Assoonas the last batch has been browned and placed on the plate, discard all but 1tablespoonoftheoilfromthepan.Setthepanasideforlateruse.Thebrownedmasaharinaballscanbekeptatroomtemperaturewhileyoupreparethesoup.

6.MAKETHESOUPANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Pourthe6cupschickenbrothintoamediumpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Coverandreducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

7.Whilethebrothiscomingtoaboil,pulsetheonion,garlic,andtomatoesinafoodprocessoruntillightandpulpy.Heatthepanwiththereservedoiloverhighheat.Carefullyandquicklyscoopintheonionmixture.Whentheonionmixturebeginstosimmer,reducetheheattomediumandstirintheoregano,cumin,andchilepowder.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilmostof the liquidhascookedoffandyouhaveabrownishpaste,5to6minutes.

8.Stirthecookedonionmixture,corn,and¾teaspoonsalt intothesimmeringbroth.Coverandsimmerfor10minutes.Addthemasaharinaballstothesoupafewatatime.Coverandsimmerfor3minuteslonger.Sprinklewiththechoppedcilantrosprigsandserve.

ChickpeaSquaresToppedwithMustardSeedsandSpicedOilKhamanDhokla(India)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Thissavorysteamedcake,made fromsemolina flourandchanadal,a typeofdriedsplitchickpea,isadeliciousmiddaysnack.Ascoopofyogurtaddedtothebatter guarantees that the cakewill cook up extra smooth and tender. Toppedwithcilantroandgratedcoconut,anddrizzledwithanoil that’sbeenseasonedwith spices and seeds, this savory cake possesses an aromatic and complexfreshness.

FortheDumpling

¾cupchanadal,soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hours½cupplainwhole-milkyogurt1/3cupfinelygroundsemolinaflour(soojiorrava)2 to3smalldriedhotredchiles,suchasKashmirior lalmirch, seeded ifyouwantlessheatandchoppedveryfine½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshginger1/8teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonsalt1tablespoonfreshlemonjuice2teaspoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1teaspoonbakingsoda

FortheTopping

2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil½teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½teaspoonsesameseeds2tablespoonscoarselychoppedfreshcilantroleaves2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconut(seeGlossaryofIngredients)orfrozengratedcoconut,thawed(optional)

ForCooking

Grapeseedorotherneutraloiltocoatthecakepan

Equipment

2-inch-highsteamerrack9-inchroundcakepanPotlargeenoughtoholdboththerackandthepanwhencovered

1.MAKETHEBATTER 1 TO 2HOURS INADVANCE:Placethesteamerrackinthepot,add1½inchesofwatertothepot,andsetaside.Rubalittleoilaroundtheinsideofthecakepan.

2.Drainthechanadalandplaceitinafoodprocessorwiththeyogurt.Processuntilthemixtureisfrothyandslightlygritty,about3minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.

3.Scoopthebatterintoalargebowlandstirin¾cupwater.Mixinthesemolinaflour,chiles,ginger, turmeric,salt,andlemonjuice.Coverwithaclothandletrestat roomtemperature for1 to2hours,stirringoccasionally.Thebatterwillswellslightlyandlooksofter.

4. Combine the 2 teaspoons oilwith the baking soda in a small bowl and setasideuntilthekhamandhoklaisreadytobesteamed.

5.STEAMTHEDUMPLING:Bringthewaterinthepottoaboiloverhighheat.

6.Addtheoilandbakingsodamixture into thebatterandstiruntilcombined.Pourthebatterintothepreparedcakepanandwiggleitgentlytolevelitoff.

7.Carefully place the filled pan on the steamer rack, cover, and steam for 15minutes.

8.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyliftthepanoutofthepotandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel,allowingthekhamandhoklatocoolslightly.Unmoldthekhamandhoklaandplaceitrightsideuponalargeplate.

9.MAKE THE TOPPING:Heat the2 tablespoonsoil in a small skillet overmediumheat.Add the mustard seeds and sesame seeds and stir until the sesame seeds aregoldenbrown,about3minutes.Spoontheoilmixtureevenlyoverthekhamandhoklaandsprinklewithcilantroandcoconut.Sliceandservewarm.

Nine-LayerCoconutTapiocaCakeKhanomChan(Thailand)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Thisdensecoconutcakemadeinninenoodle-thinlayersispopularatweddingsand other celebrations because the number nine is believed to symbolize luckandprogress.Thelayersserveapracticalpurposetoo.Steamingthisdumplingin layers allows it to cook quickly and evenly, a feat that would be nearlyimpossible if thekhanomchanwere steamedas a solid cake.Sometimeseachlayerisgivenitsownvibrantcolor,creatingarainboweffect,butthosethatglowwithonlythenaturaltintoftheingredientsarealsoalluringandbeautiful.Youcan bite into a slice of this firm, jellylike cake and feel your teeth popsatisfyinglythrougheachlayer,butitishardtoresistpeelingoffthelayersonebyone.

FortheDumpling

1¼cupstapiocaflour(tapiocastarch)1/3cupwhitericeflour,preferablyfromThailand1¾cupsfreshcoconutmilk(Glossaryof Ingredients)or2cupsmeasuredfromone14-ouncecancoconutmilkmixedwith1cupwater6ounceshardpalmsugaror¾cupsoftpalmsugarorotherunrefinedsugar(seeGlossaryofIngredients)¼cuppandanwater (March)or¼ teaspoonpandanextractmixed into¼cupwater

ForCooking

Grapeseedorotherneutraloiltocoatthecakepan

Equipment

2-inch-highsteamerrack8-inchroundcakepanPotlargeenoughtoholdboththerackandthepanwhencovered

1.MAKETHEBATTER:Combinethetapiocaflourandriceflourinalargeheatproofbowl.

2.Placethesteamerrackinthepot.Keepingthecakepanleveliskeyforsuchathinbatter,sotakethetimenowtocheckforanytiltsorleaningswithyourrackorpotandtrytoeventhingsoutasbestyoucan.Add1½inchesofwatertothepot, and bring to a boil over high heat.Meanwhile, rub a little oil around theinsideofthecakepan.

3. Pour the coconutmilk into a small saucepan, add the palm sugar, and heatovermedium-lowheat.Stiruntilallthesugarhasdissolved.Themixtureshouldbehot to the touchbut not close to simmering. Immediatelypour the coconutmilkintotheflourmixtureandwhiskuntilsmooth.Thisisaverythinbatterthatcooksupintoafirmjellyliketexture.

4.DIVIDETHEBATTER:Measureout11/3cupsofthebatterandsetaside.Stirthepandanwaterintothebatterremaininginthebowl,givingitalightgreencolor.

5.STEAM THE DUMPLING:Measureout1/3cupofthegreenpandanbatterandpouritintothepreparedcakepan.Tiltthepanuntilthebatterspreadsouttocoatthebottomofthepanevenly.

6.Carefullyplacethepanonthesteamerrack,makingsurethatitislevel.Coverandsteamoverhighheatfor3minutes.

7.Uncoverandslowlypourin1/3cupofthewhitebattermixtureevenlyoverthesteamed layer, cover, and steam for 3 minutes longer. Continue adding andsteaming alternating layers of batter every3minutes, endingwith a ninth andfinallayerofthegreenpandanbatter.

8.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethecakepanfromthepot.Place itonafoldedkitchentowelandallowthekhanomchan tocool to roomtemperature.Unmoldbyinvertingitontoaplate,slice,andserve.Khanomchancanbekepttightlycoveredintherefrigeratorforupto3days.Allowittocomebacktoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Salty-SweetBeanPuddingswithCoconutCreamToppingKhanomThuay(Thailand)

SERVES4(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

These striking coconutdumplings are a popular street snack inThailand.LiketheKhanomChan (preceding recipe), these dumplings aremade froma batterflavoredwithpalmsugar,pandanleaves,andcoconutmilk.They’resteamedinsmallbowls,toppedwitharichcoconutcream,andsteamedagain.Justenoughsalt is added to the creamy topping to make them extra tasty and totallysatisfying.Traditionally theyareeatenat room temperature,butwecan’tkeepfromeatingoneortwothemomenttheyarepluckedfromthesteamer.

FortheDumplings

3tablespoonsmungbeanstarch1tablespoonwhitericeflour,preferablyfromThailand½cup freshcoconutmilk (seeGlossaryof Ingredients)or1/3 cup cannedcoconutmilkmixedwith3tablespoonswater2 tablespoons pandanwater or 1/8 teaspoon pandan extractmixed into¼cupwater2ounceshardpalmsugaror¼cupsoftpalmsugarorotherunrefinedsugar(seeGlossaryofIngredients)

FortheCoconutCreamTopping

¼cupwhitericeflour,preferablyfromThailand¾teaspoonsugar

1/8teaspoonsalt1/3 cup fresh coconut cream (seeGlossary of Ingredients)mixedwith 2/3cupfreshcoconutmilkor1cupcannedcoconutmilk

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpotFourtosixteen2-inch-widedippingbowls(seeGlossaryofEquipment)

1.MAKETHEBATTER:Combinethemungbeanstarchandthe2tablespoonsriceflourinamediumheatproofbowl.

2.Mixtogetherthe½cupcoconutmilk,thepandanwater,andpalmsugarinasmallsaucepan.Heatovermedium-lowheat,stirringconstantly,untilthesugarhas dissolved and themixture is hot to the touch but not close to simmering,about 2 minutes. Pour into the mung bean starch mixture and whisk untilsmooth.Thisisaverythinbatterthatcooksupintoapuddingliketexture.

3. MAKE THE COCONUT CREAM TOPPING: Combine the ¼ cup rice flour, sugar, and salt in amediumheatproofbowl.

4. Mix together the coconut cream mixture in a small saucepan. Heat overmedium-lowheat,stirringconstantly,untilitishottothetouchbutnotclosetosimmering, about 2minutes. Pour into the rice flourmixture and whisk untilsmooth.

5.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to a boil over highheat.Arrange asmany small dippingbowls as you can in the basket.Give themungbean batter a good stir beforespooningatablespoonofitintoeachbowl.Carefullyplacethebasketinthepot,cover, and cook for 10 minutes. The batter will thicken into a puddinglikeconsistency.

6.Once thefirst layerhascooked,stir thecoconutcreammixtureandspoonatablespoonintoeachfilledbowl,coveringthemungbeanlayer.Coverandsteamfor15minuteslonger.Thecoconuttoppingisnotsupposedtobefirm,thoughitwillsetslightlyasitcools.

7.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Carefullyremovethebowlsandallowthekhanomthuaytocoolslightly.Slipthemoutoftheirbowlswithabutterknifeandarrangethem,top side up, on a plate. Repeat the steaming steps with the remaining batter.Serve at room temperature.Khanomthuay can be kept tightlywrapped in therefrigerator for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperaturebeforeserving.

MatzoBallsinaBeefBrothFleischsuppemitMatzoknepfle(France)SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT12DUMPLINGS)

ThereisabeefmatzoballsoupfromtheAlsaceregionofFrancethatstandsasagood contrast to the more familiar chicken-based Central European andAmerican versions. These dumplings startwithwholematzo crackers that arebrokenintopiecesandsoaked.Precookingthedoughinapanwithsomeonionsgivesthesematzoballsanaromaticsweetnessandamoretoastedflavor.

FortheSoup

3poundssmallbeefmarrowbones3poundsbeefstewmeat,suchasshankorrump6to8freshthymesprigs2bayleaves5wholecloves1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1smallyellowonion,quartered(unpeeled)1largewholeleek,splitinhalf,rinsedclean,andchoppedcoarse1largecarrot,cutinto1-inchrounds1celeryribwithleaves,cutinhalf1mediumturnip,peeled,cutinhalf,andslicedthick1tomato,quartered½smallgreencabbage,cored,quartered,andslicedinto1-inchribbons2teaspoonssalt

FortheDumplings

Two6-inchsquarematzocrackers,brokenintosmallpiecesandsoakedin

plentyofcoldwaterfor30to60minutes1tablespoonrenderedduckfatorneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed½smallyellowonion,choppedfine¾teaspoonsalt½teaspoongroundginger¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg2largeeggs,beaten¼cupmatzomeal2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves

Equipment

Colanderlinedwith6to8layersofcheesecloth

1.MAKETHESOUP2½TO3HOURSINADVANCE:Placethebeefbones,beefstewmeat,thyme,bayleaves,cloves,andpeppercornsinalargepot.Pourin3quartswaterandbringto aboil overhighheat.Skim the frothoff the surfacewith a spoon.Add thequarteredonion,theleek,carrot,celery,turnip,tomato,cabbage,and2teaspoonssalt.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor2½to3hours.(Youcanalsomake thesoup inadvanceandkeep it refrigerated ina tightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

2. MAKE THE DOUGH: While the soup is simmering, drain the matzo crackers in acolanderorsieveandgentlypressoutexcesswater.Thematzowillbemushy,sobecarefulnottopushitthroughtheholesofthecolanderorsievewhilepressingoutthewater.Placethedrainedmatzocrackersinasmallbowlandsetaside.

3.Melt the duck fat in a small pot over lowheat.Add the chopped onion,¾teaspoonsalt,thegroundginger,andnutmegandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheonionisverysoftbutnotbrown,about8minutes.Adda littlewater if theonionstartstodarkenaroundtheedges.Addthematzomushandstirvigorouslyuntilthemixturebeginstoturnintoadoughyballandthepastycoatingonthebottomandsidesofthepanbeginstobrown,about2minutes.Removefromtheheat,scoopintoamediumbowl,breakitupabit,andallowittocoolslightly.

4.Whilethedoughisstillwarm,mixintheeggs.Mixinthematzomealandtheparsley.Coverandrefrigeratefor2to8hours.Forespeciallytenderdumplings,letthedoughchillforthefull8hours.

5.MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Remove themeat from the broth using a slotted spoon,placeinabowl,andcovertokeepwarm.Dothesamewiththecarrots.Removethemarrowbonesanddiscard.Strain thebroth intoamediumpot through thecheesecloth-linedcolander.Discardtherestofthevegetables.Bringthebrothtoasteadysimmerovermediumheat.

6. Refresh the chilled dough by giving it a quick stir. Scoop up a roundedtablespoonofdough.Useanotherspoonoryourfingertomovethedoughgentlyoff the spoon and into the broth. Drop in spoonfuls of the remaining dough,leavingasmuchspaceasyoucanaroundeach.Thesedumplingswillsinkatfirstbutwillfloattothesurfaceastheycook.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andcookfor10minutes.Turnthedumplingsover,cover,andcookfor5minuteslonger.Once the dumplings have cooked, gently stir in the cookedmeat and carrots,cookfor1minutelonger,andserve.

Chive-StuffedDumplingswithTomatoSauceandMintedYogurtAshak(Afghanistan)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT48DUMPLINGS)

Ashakaretraditionallyfilledwithanaromatic,grassygreencalledgandana,alsoknownasgarlicchiveorChinesechive(nottobereplacedbyonionchives).Ifgarlicchivesaren’tavailable,youcansubstituteequalpartschoppedparsleyandscallion mixed with a spoonful of chopped garlic. Leeks or ramps are alsocommon substitutes. Whatever greens you use, hand-wilting them instead ofblanchingwillkeeptheirflavorfreshandintense.Toppedwithathickandmeatytomato sauce and garlic-infused yogurt, the dumplings themselves aresurprisinglylightandrefreshingandmakethisdishsuitableforanymeal.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheHalf-MoonFold.

FortheYogurtSauce*

4cupsplainwhole-milkyogurt, drained (seeGlossaryof Ingredients) for12hours(about2cups)2garliccloves,choppedveryfine

FortheFilling

2cupsfinelychoppedandhand-wilted(seeTips)garlicchives(gandana),or1 cup finelychopped fresh flat-leafparsley,plus1 cup finelychoppedscallionmixedwith1tablespoonveryfinelychoppedgarlic½teaspoonsalt1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoongroundcumin

½teaspoongroundcinnamon2teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheDough

1 recipe Shao Mai (Bottlenecked Pork and Shrimp Dumplings) dough,preferablymadenomorethan1hourinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheTomatoSauce*

¼cupgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1smallyellowonion,choppedfine¼poundleangroundbeef6 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see Glossary of Ingredients), andcrushed,or6cannedplumtomatoes,drainedandcrushed(about1½cups)1teaspoongratedfreshginger1garlicclove,choppedfine½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupfinelyshreddedfreshmint

Equipment

2½-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEYOGURTSAUCE2TO8HOURSINADVANCE:Combinetheyogurtandthe2clovesofchoppedgarlicinamediumbowlandmixwell.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

2.MAKETHEFILLING:Combineallthefillingingredientsinamediumbowl.

3.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingtheashak,reviewtheHalf-MoonFold.

4.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandfilling.

5.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceinto a ball, then roll it out until it’s 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

6.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually10to12.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

7.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedteaspoonoffillingontopofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

8.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

9.MAKETHETOMATO SAUCE:Heattheoilinasmallpotoverhighheat.Addtheonionandstirconsistentlyuntil theonionjustbeginstobrown,about4minutes.Addthebeef and stir frequently. Break up clumps with a wooden spoon as the beefbeginstobrown,5to6minutes.

10.Mix in the tomatoes, ginger, the clove of chopped garlic, the salt, and¼teaspoonpepper.Reducetheheattolowandcookuntilthetomatoesbreakdownintothesauce,about5minutes.Removefromtheheatandkeepwarm.

11.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Spreadhalfoftheyogurtsauceacrossalargeplateorindividualservingplatesandsetaside.Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Gentlydropa fewdozendumplings, a fewat a time, into the simmeringwater.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,about3minutes,thencookfor2minuteslonger.(Ifcookingfrozenashak,addthemdirectlytothesimmeringwaterandincreasethecookingtimeby1minute.Donotallowthemtothawbeforecooking.)

12.Remove thedumplingswithaslottedspoon,place themin the largebowl,drizzlewith a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking, and keepwarm.Cooktheremainingdumplings,placetheminthebowlwithanotherladleofthecookingliquid,andkeepwarm.

13.Drain theashak andarrange themon topof theyogurt sauceon theplate.Spoontheremainingyogurtsauceovertheashak,spoonthetomatosauceovereverything,sprinklewithfreshmint,andserve.

WheatDumplingsStuffedwithTurmeric-StainedPotatoesShogoMomo(Tibet)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

Theshogomomo is awholewheat dumpling stuffedwithmashedpotato.Thetextureofthepotatocanbeassmoothasyoulike,butweprefer itwhenit’salittlelumpy.Leftoverboiledorbakedrussetpotatoesaregreatforthisdumpling,butdon’tusepotatoesthathavebeenmixedwithcreamorcheese.Ahalfcupoffreshorfrozenbabypeasmaybeaddedtothepotatoesforcolorandflavor.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheStandingHalf-MoonFold,butyoucanalsousethemoredetailedPleatedHalf-MoonFold.

FortheDough

1½cupswholewheatflour¾cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting

FortheFilling

1teaspooncuminseeds1mediumbakingpotato,suchasrusset1scallion,slicedintothinrings½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonsalt1/8teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshcilantroleaves

ForCookingandServing

Softlettuceleaves,suchasBoston,tolinethesteamerbasket1recipeSoy-VinegarSauce*

Equipment

3-inchroundcookiecutter8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Combinethewholewheatflourandtheall-purposeflourinalargebowl. Scoop out¼ cup and set aside. Add 1 cupwater andmix until all theliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeofthereservedflourmixture,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

2.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor4to5minutes.Thedoughwill be smooth and elastic. Return the dough to the bowl, coverwith a cleankitchentowel,andletrestforatleast30minutes,butnolongerthan1hour.

3.MAKETHEFILLING:Toastthecuminseedsinasmallskilletovermediumheat,stirringconstantly until they are lightly browned, about 2minutes. Immediatelymovethemtoasmallbowltocool.

4.Placethepotatoinasmallsaucepan,pourinenoughwatertocover,andbringto a boil over high heat.Cover, reduce the heat tomedium, and simmer untilfork-tender, about 30minutes.Drain and place the potato on a folded kitchentowel.Onceit’scoolenoughtohandle,peeloffitsskinandputthefleshintoamedium bowl. Mash until mostly smooth. Mix in the remaining fillingingredientsandsetasidetocool.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingtheshogomomo,reviewtheStandingHalf-MoonFoldorthePleatedHalf-MoonFold.

6.Linea traywith akitchen towel and sprinklewith a little all-purpose flour.Havereadythedoughandthechilledfilling.

7.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaball,thenrollitoutuntilit’sabout1/8inchthick.Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.

8.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually8to10.Collectallthescrapsfromaroundtheroundsandputthemasideunderadampkitchentowelforlateruse.

9.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwater tomake itstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedteaspoonoffilling inthecenterofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges, ifneeded,forabetterseal.Holdingeachdumplingbyitsseam,tapitsfilledbaseonyourworksurfaceuntilithasaflat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over. Place the assembleddumplingsinasinglelayeronthepreparedtrayandkeepthemcoveredwithakitchen towel while you work. Once you have assembled the first batch ofdumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all thedoughscraps,kneadthemintoaball,rollitout,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,andfillandfoldthosetoo.

10.Setasidethenumberofdumplingsthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

11.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to aboil overhighheat.Line thebasketwith the lettuceleavesandarrangeasmanydumplingsinthebasketasyoucanfitwithouttheirtouching.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium-high,andsteam for15minutes. (If steaming frozenshogomomo, place themdirectly inthebasketandcook them in the steamerpot for20minutes.Donotallow the

shogomomotothawbeforecooking.)

12.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Gentlyliftuptheshogomomousingtongsandplacethemonalargeplate.Serveimmediatelywhileyoucookanyremainingshogomomo.ServewithasideofSoy-VinegarSauce.

WheatDumplingsStuffedwithBeefandOnionShaMomo(Tibet)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

TheshamomoisreveredinNepalandTibetforitsausterityofingredientsanditsabilitytofeedmanywithwhatseemslikesolittle.Yakmeatisthetraditionalfilling of choice for thismomo, but beef is a common substitute. The wholewheatdoughaddsakindofsweetnessandchewthatcomplementsandenhancesthemeatyfilling.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheStandingHalf-MoonFold,butyoucanalsousethemoredetailedPleatedHalf-MoonFold.

FortheFilling

½poundleangroundbeef½smallyellowonion,choppedfineandhand-wilted(seeTips)2scallions,slicedintothinrings2garliccloves,choppedveryfine1teaspoongratedfreshginger2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantroleaves½teaspoonsalt1/8teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper

FortheDough

1recipeShogoMomodough(precedingrecipe),preferablymadenomorethan2hoursinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

ForCookingandServing

Softlettuceleaves,suchasBoston,tolinethesteamerbasket1recipeSoy-VinegarSauce*

Equipment

3-inchroundcookiecutter8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKE THE FILLING:Combineallthefillingingredientsinamediumbowl.Coverandrefrigeratefor10minutes.

2. ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS:Beforeassembling the shamomo,review theStandingHalf-MoonFoldorthePleatedHalf-MoonFold.

3.Linea traywith akitchen towel and sprinklewith a little all-purpose flour.Havereadythedoughandthechilledfilling.

4.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaball,thenrollitoutuntilit’sabout1/8inchthick.Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.

5.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually8to10.Collectallthescrapsfromaroundtheroundsandputthemasideunderadampkitchentowelforlateruse.

6.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwater tomake itstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedteaspoonoffilling inthecenterofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges, ifneeded,forabetterseal.Holding

eachdumplingbyitsseam,tapitsfilledbaseonyourworksurfaceuntilithasaflat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over. Place the assembleddumplingsinasinglelayeronthepreparedtrayandkeepthemcoveredwithakitchen towel while you work. Once you have assembled the first batch ofdumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all thedoughscraps,kneadthemintoaball,rollitout,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,andfillandfoldthosetoo.

7.Setasidethenumberofdumplingsthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

8.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to aboil overhighheat.Line thebasketwith the lettuceleavesandarrangeasmanydumplingsinthebasketasyoucanfitwithouttheirtouching.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium-high,andsteamfor20minutes.(Ifsteamingfrozenshamomo,placethemdirectlyinthebasketandcook themin thesteamerpot for25minutes.Donotallowtheshamomotothawbeforecooking.)

9. Remove the pot from heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on afoldedkitchentowel.Gentlyliftuptheshamomowithtongsandplacethemonalargeplate.Serveimmediatelywhileyoucookanyremainingshamomo.ServewithSoy-VinegarSauce.

SpicyLamb-FilledDumplingsinaThickYogurtSoupSheeshBarakbiLaban(Lebanon)SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT60DUMPLINGS)

Yogurt soup is a soothing contrast to these spicy, meat-filled dumplings. Thelamb filling in these dumplings iswell seasonedwith allspice, cinnamon, andpaprika. The spicier the dumplings, the more aromatic and outlandish theirflavor in this silky soup. Some people like to fry the dumplings beforesimmeringtheminthesoup,but thatmakesthemfirmandkindofbrittle.Theyogurthasawayoftenderizingtherawdough,makingthedumplingslushandslipperyastheycook.Thedriedmintinthesoup,withitsdeeper,moretealikeflavors,shouldnotbereplacedwithfreshmint.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBelly-ButtonFold.

FortheDough

2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1tablespoongrapeseedorotherneutraloil

FortheFilling

1/3cuppinenuts2tablespoonsghee(GlossaryofIngredients)1smallyellowonion,choppedfine2garliccloves,choppedveryfine1teaspoongroundallspice¼teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonsweetpaprika½poundgroundlamb

½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheSoup*

1tablespoongheeoraneutraloil,likegrapeseed4garliccloves,choppedveryfine1/3cupcoarselychoppedfreshcilantroleaves¾teaspoonsalt4 cupsplainwhole-milkyogurt, drained (seeGlossaryof Ingredients) for12hours(about2cups)2teaspoonsunbleachedall-purposeflourmixedinto3cupswater1largeeggwhite,beaten2tablespoonsdriedmint

Equipment

2-inchroundcookiecutter

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place1¾cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addtheoiland¾cupwaterandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If thedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

2.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor2to3minutes.Thedoughwillbesomewhatfirmandelastic.Coatthedoughwithalittleoil,returnittothebowl,coverwithacleankitchentowel,andletitrestfor30minutes.

3.MAKE THE FILLING:Toast thepinenuts in a small skillet overmediumheat, stirringconstantly,untiltheyjustbegintobrown,2to3minutes.Turnthemintoabowlimmediatelyandsetaside.

4. Heat the 2 tablespoons ghee in a large skillet over medium heat. Add theonion and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Mix in the 2 cloves ofchoppedgarlic,theallspice,cinnamon,andpaprika.Addthelambandbreakupclumps with a wooden spoon as it begins to brown. Stir in the pine nuts, ½teaspoon salt, and the pepper and continue cooking until the lamb is goldenbrown, about 4 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, scoop into a shallowbowl,andsetasidetocool.

5. ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS:Beforeassembling the sheeshbarak,reviewtheBelly-ButtonFold.

6. Line a traywith a kitchen towel and sprinklewith a little flour.Also havereadythedoughandthefilling.

7.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaballandrollitoutuntilit’s1/16inchthick.(Fortipsonhowtorolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

8.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually12to15.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

9.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwater tomake it stickyenough toseal.Place1scant teaspoonof filling in thecenterofeachround,foldneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Pickuponeofthehalf-moonsandjoinandpinchitstwoendstogetherbehindthebaseor“belly”ofthedumpling.Dabalittlewaterontheends,ifneeded,fora better seal. Repeat this step with the remaining half-moons. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

10.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60 minutes before cooking. Chilling the dumplings helps to set the dough,making them firm and toothsomewhen cooked instead of puffy and soft. Setaside the number of dumplings that youwould like to cook and keep the restfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

11.MAKE THE SOUP:Heat the1 tablespoonghee in a small skilletovermediumheat.Addthe4clovesofchoppedgarlicandstiruntilitjustbeginstobrown.Mixinthecilantroandstiruntilthegarlicisgoldenbrown.Scoopintoabowl,sprinklewiththe¾teaspoonsalt,andsetaside.

12.Whisktogethertheyogurt,flourandwatermixture,eggwhite,andmintinamedium pot. Slowly bring it to a simmer over low heat, 10 to 15 minutes,stirringfrequently.

13.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Oncethesoupcomestoasimmer,stirinthegarlicandcilantromixture. Gently drop in the sheesh barak a few at a time. Simmer, stirringoccasionally,for6to8minutes,andserve.Ifcookingfrozensheeshbarak,addthemdirectlytothesimmeringyogurtsoupandincreasethecookingtimeby4minutes.Donotallowthedumplingstothawbeforecooking.

Oven-SimmeredLamb-FilledDumplingswithMintedYogurtManti(Turkey)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT64DUMPLINGS)

Whatmakeslamb-filledmantiexceptionalisthatoncetheyareassembled,theyareplaced inabakingdish, floodedwitha savorybroth, and simmered in theovenwiththeirtopsexposedjustlongenoughtoturncrispyandgoldenbrown.Like ShaoMai (July), these dumplings aremadewith a very thin dough thatrequirespractice.Takeyourtime,enjoytheprocess,andtrytorolloutthedoughalittlethinnereachtime.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBottleneckFold.

FortheSauce*

4cupsplainwhole-milkyogurt, drained (seeGlossaryof Ingredients) for12hours(about2cups)4garliccloves,choppedveryfine,mixedwith½teaspoonsaltandgroundintoapaste1teaspoondriedmint

FortheDough

1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1largeeggyolk1tablespoonoliveoil½teaspoonsalt

FortheFiling

½poundgroundlamb1mediumyellowonion,choppedfine2tablespoonsdriedoregano1tablespoondriedmint1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

ForCookingandServing*

Oliveoiltocoatthebakingpan1½cupsChickenBroth

Equipment

9×13-inchbakingpanor10-inchroundovenproofskillet

1.MAKETHEYOGURTSAUCE2HOURSINADVANCE:Placeallofthesauceingredientsand1cupwaterinalargebowlandmixwell.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast2hoursbutnomorethan8hours.

2.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place1cupoftheflourinamediumbowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addtheeggyolk,1/3cupwater, theoil,andthe½teaspoonsaltandmix until all of the liquid has been absorbed.Work the doughwith yourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor5to7minutes.Sprinklewithflourifitgetsalittlesticky.Thedoughwillbesomewhatfirmandelastic.Coatthedoughwithalittleoil,returnittothebowl,cover,andletitrestfor30minutes.

4.MAKETHEFILLING:Meanwhile,combineallthefillingingredientsinamediumbowlandkeeprefrigerateduntilthedumplingsarereadytobeassembled.

5. ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before assembling the manti, review the Bottleneck Fold.Insteadofaroundpieceifdough,youwillbeusingasquare.

6.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

7. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide into 4 equalpieces,thenset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoabluntlogandroll itout intoan8-inchsquare.Thisdoughshouldnotbethicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Takeyourtimeandsprinklewithalittleflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrestforacoupleofminutes.

8. Trim the edges, creating a cleaner square shape.Cut the dough into 2-inchstrips, then cut again going across to form 16 squares. Place the squares in asingle layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces,separating layerswith kitchen towels.Keep the squares covered as youwork.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

9.Lineanother traywithakitchen towelandsprinklewitha little flour.Havereadythedoughsquaresandthefilling.

10.Layflat1to5doughsquares.Brusheachsquarewithaverythincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Placeaheapingteaspoonoffillinginthecenterofeachsquare.Gatherupthesidesofthesquare,creatingapoucharoundthe filling, leaving an open neck in the center of the gathered dough. Pinchtogether the creases and pleats that formed naturally while the dough wasgatheredupwithoutclosingtheopenneck.Thisgivesthedumplingalooseand

frilly top.Gently squeeze thebodyof thedumplinguntil the fillingpushesupthroughtheneckalittle.Holdingthedumplingbytheneck,tapitsbaseonyourwork surface until it is flat enough on the bottom to sit upright. Place theassembleddumplingsinasinglelayeronthepreparedtrayandcontinuewiththeremainingsquaresandfilling.Keepthedumplingscoveredwithakitchentowelasyouwork.

11.Setasidethenumberofdumplingsthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).Coverandplacethedumplingstobecookedintherefrigeratorwhileyoupreheattheoven.

12. COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bring the yogurt sauce to roomtemperature.

13.Coattheinsideofthebakingpanwithoilandarrangethedumplingsinthepan.Placethepanintheovenandbakeuntilthetopsofthedumplingsarejustbeginning to brown, 10 to 15 minutes. (If cooking frozenmanti, place themdirectly in thepanand then immediately into theoven, increasing thecookingtimeby5minutes.Donotallowthemantitothawbeforecooking.)

14.Meanwhile,pour thechickenbroth intoa small saucepanandbring it toaboiloverhighheat.Whenthetopsofthedumplingshavejustbrowned,chooseanemptyspotinthepanandpourinthebroth.Returnthepantotheovenandcontinuetocookuntilthetopsofthedumplingsaregoldenbrownandmostofthebrothhascookedofforbeenabsorbed,about10minutes.

15.Removethepanfromtheoven,placeonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowthemanti tocoolslightly.Scoopupthemantiwithaspoonorasmallspatula,placerightsideuponalargeservingplate,spoontheyogurtsauceoverthetop,andserve.

DumplingsStuffedwithPorkandCabbageMandu(Korea)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT48DUMPLINGS)

Atfirstglance,theseKoreandumplingsappeartobenodifferentfromChineseJiaoZi (February).Both are filledwithmeat and seasonedwith scallions andginger, soy sauce and sesame oil, butmandu fillings are lighter because theyincludelotsofjuicy,crispyvegetablessuchascabbageandbeansprouts.Ifyouwant vegetarianmandu, you can make the mushroom and tofu variation thatfollows.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheStandingHalf-MoonFold,butyoucanalsousethemoredetailedPleatedHalf-MoonFold.

FortheDough

2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting¼cupcornstarch1½tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil

FortheFilling

8 large napa cabbage leaves, chopped fine andhand-wilted (seeTips), orone18-ouncejarcabbagekimchee,drained1poundleanbonelessporkloin,choppedveryfine,orfreshlygroundpork¾poundmungbeansprouts,hand-wiltedandchoppedfine6garliccloves,choppedveryfine4scallions,slicedintothinrings1tablespoonfinelygratedfreshgingeror¾teaspoonground

2tablespoonstoastedsesameoil1tablespooncornstarch1teaspoonsoysauce2 teaspoonssalt (reduce thesaltbyhalf ifusingkimchee insteadof freshnapacabbage)½teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper

ForCookingandServing

Soft lettuceleaves,suchasBoston, to linethesteamerbasketandservingplate1recipeSoy-VinegarSauce*

Equipment

3¼-inchroundcookiecutter8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place1¾cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Add the¼cupcornstarchandmixwell.Add theoil and¾cupwater andmixuntil all of the liquidhas been absorbed.Work thedoughwithyour hands into onemanageable ball. If the dough iswet and sticky,work insomeof the remaining flour, a little at a time,until itno longer sticks toyourfingers.

2.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor2to3minutes.Thedoughwillbesomewhatfirmandelastic.Coatthedoughwithalittleoil,returnittothebowl,coverwithacleankitchentowel,andletrestforatleast30minutesbutnomorethan1hour.

3.MAKE THE FILLING:Whilethedoughisresting,combinethecabbagewiththerestofthefillingingredientsinamediumbowl.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthemandu,reviewtheStandingHalf-MoonFoldorthePleatedHalf-MoonFold.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowel.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

6.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceinto a ball, then roll it out until it’s 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

7.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually10to12.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

8.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedtablespoonoffillinginthecenterofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges, ifneeded,forabetterseal.Holdingthe dumpling by its seam, tap the base on your work surface until it is flatenoughonthebottomtositupright.Placetheassembleddumplingsinasinglelayeronthepreparedtrayandkeepcoveredwithakitchentowelasyouwork.Once you have assembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with theremainingdoughandfilling.

9.Setasidethenumberofdumplingsthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

10.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to aboil overhighheat.Line thebasketwith the lettuceleavesandarrangeasmanydumplingsinthebasketasyoucanfitwithouttheirtouching. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, andsteam for 15 minutes. (If steaming frozenmandu, place them directly in thebasketandcooktheminthesteamerpotfor20minutes.Donotallowthemandu

tothawbeforecooking.)

11. Remove the pot from the heat.Carefully remove the basket, place it on afoldedkitchentowel,andallowthemandutocoolslightly.Arrangeafewlettuceleaves on a plate. Use a spoon or a small spatula to move themandu to thepreparedplate.Serveimmediatelywhileyoucookanyremainingmandu.ServewithSoy-VinegarSauce.

TOFUANDMUSHROOMMANDULeaveoutthecornstarchandgroundpork,insteadadding:

4ouncesfirmtofu,finelycrumbledandfoldedupinakitchentowelfor30minutestosoakupexcesswater3dried shiitakeorblackmushrooms, soaked inhotwater tocover for30minutes,thenstemmedandchoppedfine

May

BLACKSESAMECUPCAKES

KurogomaMushipan(Japan)

BOILEDFISHWITHOKRAANDDUMPLINGS

(Caribbean)

SLIPPERYRICEBALLSINCABBAGE-RADISHSOUP

TangYuan(China)

POUNDEDCASSAVADUMPLING

Fufu(WestAfrica)

MUSHROOM-ASPARAGUSBREADDUMPLINGSINAMUSHROOMSAUCE

SchwammerlKnödelmitSpargel(Austria)

COCONUTANDRICECOLUMNSWITHCHICKPEACURRY

PuttuKadala(India)

SMALLPORKBUNS

ZhuRouBaozi(China)

SMALLMUSHROOMBUNS

XiangGuBaozi(China)

PINEAPPLE-PECANTAMALES

TamalesDulces(Mexico)

TAMALESSTUFFEDWITHCHICKENANDTOMATILLOSAUCE

TamalesdePollo(Mexico)

POUNDEDRICEDUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHSTRAWBERRIES

IchigoDaifuku(Japan)

LEAF-WRAPPEDRICEPACKAGESSTUFFEDWITHCHICKENANDBAMBOOSHOOTS

NuoMiJi(China)

BlackSesameCupcakesKurogomaMushipan(Japan)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

MushipanareacollectionofsteamedJapanesecakesinspiredinpartbyFrenchpastries andBritish puddings.They come in an array of flavors and densities,andsomeevenhavefillings.Kurogomamushipanaremadewithagroundblacksesameseedbatterandhaveabeautiful,richlyspeckledlook.Thesedumplingsareaslightasangelfoodcake,andmakeatastydessertorsnack.

FortheDumplings

¼cupcakeflour¼ cup superfine sugar (or granulated sugar pulsed in a spice or coffeegrinderfor1to2minutes)½teaspoonbakingpowderPinchofsalt¼cupblacksesameseeds3largeeggs,separated,plus1largeeggwhite2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil¼teaspooncreamoftartar

Equipment

Cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder8individualbakingcups8paperbakingcups8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKE THE BATTER:Sift thecakeflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsalt throughafinesieveintoabowl.Sift2moretimes,thensetaside.

2. Toast the black sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirringcontinuously, for 2minutes. Immediatelymove them to a small bowl to cool.Finelygrindinthespicegrinder.

3.Mixtogetherthegroundsesameseeds,the3eggyolks,andtheoilinalargebowlandsetaside.

4.Inamediumbowl,whiskthe4eggwhitesuntilverylightandfoamy.Addthecreamoftartarandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixtureformssoftpeaks.

5.Addhalfoftheflourmixturetothesesameandeggyolkmixtureandstiruntilcombined.Scoopinhalfofthewhippedeggwhitesandstiruntilitformsathickbatter.Stirintheremainingflourmixture,thenaddtheremainingeggwhitesandfolduntiljustcombined.

6. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Line the individual baking cupswith the paper baking cups.Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbring to a boil over high heat. Arrange the lined baking cups in the basket.Spooninenoughbattertofilleachcuptojustoverthree-quartersfull.Carefullyplacethebasketinthepot,cover,andcookfor20minutes.

7.Removethepotfromtheheat.Removethebasket,placeonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowthekurogomamushipantocoolslightly.Removethemfromtheindividualbakingcups,arrangethedumplingsonaplate,andservewarmoratroomtemperature.

BoiledFishwithOkraandDumplings

(Caribbean)

SERVES4(MAKES12DUMPLINGS)

TheflavorsofCaribbeancookingareapparent in thissimplypreparedseafooddish. The dumplings, purposely dense and chewy, are smothered in a spicytomatosaucewithchunksofokraandgreenpepperandageneroushelpingoffish.Cod,snapper,andgrouperarecommonlyused,butalarmingly,allofthesefishhavebeendepletedtodangerouslylowlevels.Youcanuseanyfirmwhite-fleshedfishthatismoreabundant,wholeorcutintofillets.

FortheDumplings

2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting½teaspoonsalt

FortheFish

3tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1smallyellowonion,choppedcoarse3garliccloves,slicedthin1largegreenbellpepper,coredandchoppedcoarse1smallScotchbonnetchile,*coredandquartered(orleftwholeifyouwantalessspicysauce)5okrapods,trimmedoftheirtopsandcutinto½-inchrounds(about1cup)1tablespoonfreshthymeleaves

¾teaspoonsalt1½tablespoonstomatopaste4firmwhite-fleshedfishfilletssuchastilapia(about1pound)1scallion,trimmedandslicedintothinrings1lime,cutinhalf

Equipment

Large,widepotorskilletwithacoverLarge,widebowltoholdthecookeddumplings

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place1¾cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addthe½teaspoonsaltand1cupwaterandmixwithaforkuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsuntilyouhaveone manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of theremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

2.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor3to4minutes.Sprinklewithflourifitgetsalittlesticky.Thedoughwillbesoftandstretchy.Returnthedoughtothebowl,cover,andletitrestfor30minutes.

3.MAKEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

4.Kneadthedoughonceortwiceonaflouredsurfaceanddivideinto12equalpieces. Roll 1 piece into a 5-inch rope, flatten it with your fingers into a barabout¼ inch thick, andplaceon theprepared tray.Repeatwith the remainingpiecesofdough.

5. Fill a medium pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat.Carefullydropthedoughbars,afewatatime,intothewaterandstir.Cookuntilall of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 5 minutes longer.Removewithaslottedspoon,placeinthebowlwithaladleofthecookingliquid

topreventsticking,andkeepwarm.

6.COOKTHEFISH:Heattheoilinthelargepotoverhighheat.Addtheonionandgarlicand stir until theonion just begins to soften, about 2minutes.Mix in thebellpepperandchileandcookuntiltheonionandpeppersarelightlybrowned,about3minutes.Add theokra, thyme,¾ teaspoon salt, the tomatopaste, and1 cupwater,stir,andbringtoaboil.

7.Clearsomespaceinthepotbymovingthevegetablestotheside.Arrangethefishinthecenterofthepanandspoonsomeofthesauceandvegetablesontop.Cover, reduce theheat to low, and simmer for 2minutes.Gently turn the fishpieces over and simmer uncovered until they are cooked through, about 1minute. Drain the dumplings, add them to the fish, shake the pan to coat thedumplings,cookfor1minutelonger,andserve.

SlipperyRiceBallsinCabbage-RadishSoupTangYuan(China)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

Tang yuan, or “soup balls,” are very basic rice flour dumplings. They have aclean,lightflavor,achewyandalmostbouncytexture,andasilky,slipperyfeel.VariationsofthesesmalldumplingsarefoundthroughoutAsia,bothsavoryandsweet,andacoupleofothersarefeaturedinthisbook(GuinataanatBilo-BiloinDecemberandOnde-OndeinMarch).Thebrothusedinthisrecipeisdeliciouson its own and can also be usedwith otherChinese soup dumplings, such asHungYouChaoShou(August).

FortheSoup

4smalldriedshiitakeorblackmushrooms,soakedin1cuphotwaterfor30minutes½poundleanbonelessporkbutt,cutinto8equalpieces6to8smallormediumdriedshrimp4largenapacabbageleaves,slicedinto1-inchribbons1 small daikon radish, peeled and coarsely grated, or 1 medium carrot,slicedintothinrounds1linkChineseporksausage(lachang),cutdiagonallyintothinslices1teaspoonsalt

FortheDumplings

1¼ cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably fromChina or Thailand,plussomeextrafordusting

½cupwarmwater

1.MAKETHESOUP:Fishoutthesoakedmushroomswithyourfingers,squeezingexcessliquidbackintothebowl.Removeanddiscardthestemsandsetthemushroomcapsaside.Strainthesoakingliquid.

2. Place the pork, dried shrimp, mushrooms, and their soaking liquid in amedium pot. Pour in 5 cupswater and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor30minutes.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.

3.MAKE THE DOUGH:While the soup is simmering, place 1 cup of the rice flour in amediumbowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Pourinthewarmwaterandmixuntil all the liquidhasbeenabsorbed.Knead thedough in thebowl for aminute.Thisdoughneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifitistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.

4. Once the soup has simmered for 30 minutes, mix in the cabbage, daikon,sausage,andsalt,cover,andsimmerfor10minuteslonger.Reducetheheat tovery,verylowtokeepthesouphotuntilit’stimetoaddthedumplings.

5.MAKEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittlericeflour.

6.Fillamediumpothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringit toaboiloverhighheat.

7.Asthewatercomestoaboil,pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1incharound.Dustwithalittlericeflourandplaceonthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

8.Lowertheheatundertheboilingwaterforagentlesimmer.Carefullydropthe

dumplings,a fewata time, into thewater.Cookuntilallof themare floating,about2minutes,thencookfor2minuteslonger.

9.Removethetangyuanwithaslottedspoon,placetheminthehotsoup,cover,steepfor3minutes,andserve.

PoundedCassavaDumplingFufu(WestAfrica)

SERVES4(MAKES1LARGEOR4SMALLDUMPLINGS)

Fufu isa familyofpoundeddumplings thatareastaple throughout thecentralandwesternregionsofAfrica.Makingfufuthetraditionalway,communallyandin big batches, requires hours ofwork akin to choppingwood.A starch (likeyam,cassava,plantain,oracombination)isboiledandthenpoundedinalargemortarwithabigflat-bottomedpestleuntilsmoothandstretchy.Fufu ismeanttobepinchedoffandthendippedintoaheartysauce,stew,orsoup.FufumadeoutofcassavahasaverycleantasteandcanbequitesoothingwhenpairedwithabowlofspicyGroundnutSoup.

We’ve adapted the traditional method of pounding fufu into a 15-minuteeffort.Bygratingthecassavabeforesteaming,youeliminateagreatportionofthe pounding time. For a more tender, mildly fruity fufu, try the cassava andplantainversion.

FortheDumplings

2poundscassava,prepared(seeGlossaryofIngredients)andgratedcoarse

FortheSoup

1recipeGroundnutSoup(recipefollows)

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot24-inchsquareofmuslinLarge,sturdywoodenbowlandlargepestleormeatpounderforpoundingthefufu

1.Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,wringitout,thendrapeitinsidethebasket,creatingalining.Scoopthecassavaintothelinedbasketandspreaditoutevenly.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor45minutes.

2.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchen towel.Using themuslin liner, lift the cassavaoutof thebasketandturnitintothebowl.Thebowlmustberoomyenoughforyoutopoundthecassava freely without spilling. Using the large pestle, begin to pound thecassava steadily. Continue pounding until the cassava is smooth (or mostlysmooth), stretchy,andverysticky,about10minutes. If the fufu isdryand toofirmtopoundeffectively,addsomewarmwaterandresumepounding.

3.Wetyourhandsandshapethefufuintoabigballordivideandshapeitinto4equalballsandserveslightlywarmoratroomtemperaturewiththeGroundnutSoup.Ifmakingthefufuinadvance,wraptheballsinwaxpapertopreventthemfromformingaskinandkeepatroomtemperaturefornomorethan4hours.

CASSAVAANDPLANTAINFUFU

Add1 coarsely choppedgreenplantain to the cassava (for a fluffier andplainfufu)orripeplantain(foragooierandfruitierfufu)duringthelast10minutesofcooking.Continuewithsteps2and3andserve.

GROUNDNUTSOUPMAKES3QUARTS

One3-to4-poundchicken,cutintoservingpieces2cupsall-naturalunsweetenedpeanutbutter¼cuppeanutoiloraneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed1smallyellowonion,choppedfine3plumtomatoes,peeled(seeGlossaryofIngredients)andchoppedfine2tablespoonstomatopaste1smallScotchbonnetchile,*cored,seeded,andchoppedfine1smalleggplant,peeledandchoppedfine1 to 2 ounces fried or preserved (dried, smoked, or salted) white fish,shreddedSalttotaste

1.Place thechickenpieces ina largepot,pour in9cupswater,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheat tolow,andsimmerfor30minutes.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.

2.Removethechickenwithaslottedspoonortongsandplaceinabowltocool.Usingyourhands,pulloffbite-sizedpiecesuntilallthechickenmeathasbeenremoved.Placebackinthebowlandsetaside.Discardthebones.

3.Thinout thepeanutbutterbymixing itwith1 cupof the simmeringbroth,thenstiritintothebroth.

4. Heat the oil in amedium pot overmedium heat.Add the onion and cook,stirring occasionally, until soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, tomatopaste,chile,andeggplantandcookuntilthetomatoeshavebrokenapart,about5minutes.Add the tomatoandeggplantmixture to thebrothandsimmer for10minutes.Stirinthechickenandthefishandcookfor10minuteslonger.Sprinklewithsaltandservewithcassava fufu.Groundnutsoupcanbemadeinadvanceandkeptinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.

Mushroom-AsparagusBreadDumplingsinaMushroomSauceSchwammerlKnödelmitSpargel(Austria)SERVES6TO12(MAKES2DUMPLINGS)

These long, tender bread dumplings are chock-full of sauteédmushrooms andasparagus.Thisdumplingisfuntocutintowhenthestalksofasparagusareleftwholeandnestledintothedough,butyoucanjustaseasilychoptheasparagusandmixitdirectlyintothedoughalongwiththemushrooms.Thisrecipecanbefashionedintooneverylongdumplingor twomoremanageabledumplings,aswe do here. Serve as a side to any meal that goes well with mushrooms orasparagus.

These dumplings aremade using the Jelly-Roll Shape and thenwrappedusingtheCandy-WrapperShapeUsingaCloth.

FortheDough

¼cupgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1largeyellowonion,choppedfine10ounceswholewhitebuttonmushrooms,cutinhalf3tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshoreganoleaves6cups½-inchcrustlesswhitebreadcubes(seeGlossaryofIngredients)¾cupmilk1largeegg,plus2largeeggyolks1½teaspoonssalt1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting

FortheFilling

16 thin asparagus spears, trimmed and blanched in boiling water for 3minutes,thencooledundercoldrunningwater

FortheSauce

1½tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1½tablespoonsunbleachedall-purposeflour1½cupsBeefBroth½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

ForCooking

Unsaltedbuttertocoatthemuslin

Equipment

Two24-inchsquaresofmuslinorwhitecottonnapkins8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Cookthemushroomsin2batchesasfollows.Heat2tablespoonsoftheoilinalargeskilletoverhighheat.Addhalfoftheonionandstiruntilitjustbeginstosoften,about2minutes.Addhalfofthemushroomsandcook,stirringoccasionally,until themixture isgoldenbrown,about6minutes.Scoop intoabowlandsetaside.Wipetheskilletcleanandheattheremaining2tablespoonsofoil.Repeatthecookingstepswiththeremainingonionandmushrooms.Oncethesecondbatchofmushroomsisgoldenbrown,returnthefirstbatchtothepan,addtheoregano,andmixwell.Scoopathirdofthemushroommixturebackintothebowlandsetaside.Keeptheremainingtwo-thirdsinthepan.

2. Place the bread cubes in a medium bowl and pour in the milk. Work themixturetogetherbysquishingitthroughyourfingersuntilallthebreadhasbeenbrokendownintoapulp.Beattogethertheeggandtheeggyolks.Addtheeggand the 1½ teaspoons salt to the breadmixture and stir vigorously until wellmixed.Addthemushroommixturefromthepanandthe1cupflourandworkthepasteintoasoftdough.Coverandrefrigeratefor20minutes.

3.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingtheschwammerlknödelmitspargel,reviewthe Jelly-Roll Shape and theCandy-Wrapper ShapeUsing aCloth. The Jelly-RollShapebeginswithasheetofdoughcoveredwithasweetorsavoryfilling.Startingatoneend, thedoughandfillingarerolledupintoasolid log,whichgivesacharacteristicswirlof fillingthroughout thebodyof thedumpling.TheCandy-WrapperShapeisaquickandeasywaytowrapupaportionofdoughorbatterinaclothoraleaf,creatingorsupportingtheshapeofalog.

4. Soak both pieces of muslin under running water, wring them out, and setaside.Havereadythechilleddough,theasparagus,andalargeplate.

5.Dividethedoughinhalfandplaceonepieceonawell-flouredsurface.Wetyourhandsandgentlypressitintoarectangleabout9incheslong(oraboutthelength of the asparagus) and 7 inches wide. Arrange half of the asparagus inparallel lines on top of the dough,making sure they are spaced evenly apart.Gentlypressdownoneachstalkuntilithasbeenpushedabouthalfwayintothedough.Startingwithoneofthelongersides,rollupthedough,pinchingtheendsto seal as yougo.Sprinklewith flour if it gets sticky.Pinch andpress the faredgeofthedoughalongthelengthoftheloaftoseal.

6.Spreadonepieceofmuslinoutona flat surfaceand rub itgenerouslywithbutter,leavinganarrowborderonallsides.Placetheloafalongoneedgeofthepreparedmuslin, seam side down.Roll up the loaf in themuslin. Themuslinshouldbe slightlybaggyso that the loafcanswellwhile it cooks.Tie the twoopenends,thentiesomestringaroundthebodyofthewrappedloaftosecuretheseam.Repeatwiththeremainingdough,asparagus,andcloth.Whenbothloaveshavebeenwrappedandtied,placethemontheplate,andrefrigerateforatleast15minutes. (You can also assemble the dumplings in advance and keep themtightlywrappedintherefrigeratorforupto8hours.)

7.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Arrangetheloavesinthebasket,thenplacethebasketinthepot.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor1 hour. Check the water level halfway through cooking and replenish with

boilingwaterasneeded.

8.MAKETHESAUCE:Shortlybeforethedumplingshavefinishedcooking,meltthebutterin a small saucepanovermediumheat.Add the 1½ tablespoons flour and stiruntil themixture iswell browned, about 3minutes. Pour in the broth, stirringconstantly,untilcombined.Oncethesaucebeginstosimmer,2to3minutes,addthe½ teaspoon salt, the pepper, and the remaining cookedmushrooms to thesauceandsimmerfor3minuteslonger.

9.Removethesteamerpotfromtheheat.Carefullylifttheschwammerlknödelmitspargeloutof thebasket,place themona foldedkitchen towel,andallowthem to cool slightly. Remove the strings, unwrap, slice, and serve with themushroom sauce poured over the top.Schwammerl knödelmit spargel can berefrigeratedforupto3days.ReheatusingtheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips)orbyfryingtheslicesinalittlebutteroroil.

CoconutandRiceColumnswithChickpeaCurryPuttuKadala(India)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES2DUMPLINGS)

Tomakethisbreakfastdumplinginitstraditionalpillarshape,youneedaputtusteamer,availableatmost Indianmarkets.Thismetalputtumaker resembles asmallsaucepanwithachimneyliketop.Youassemblethisdumplingbypackinglayersofmoistgroundriceandfreshlygratedcoconutlooselyinsidethemold.As the steambuilds up, itmakes itsway through the rice and coconut layers,cooking everything flawlessly. This dumpling is delicate and tender and istypicallyservedsmotheredinaspicychickpeastew.

FortheStew

1½cupsdriedchickpeas,preferablyblackchickpeas(kalachana), soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hoursor3cupscannedchickpeas,drainedandrinsed2teaspoonsgroundturmeric2 tablespoons ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such asgrapeseed1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds5freshcurryleaves1mediumyellowonion,cutinhalfandslicedthin2garliccloves,choppedveryfine1tablespoongratedfreshgingeror¾teaspoonground1to2smallfreshgreenorredchiles,suchaslalmirch,seededandchoppedfine¼ cup Coconut Curry Masala (recipe follows) or 2 tablespoons garammasalamixedwith2tablespoonsunsweeteneddriedgratedcoconut

½teaspoonsugar2teaspoonssalt1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheDumplings

1¼cupswhitebasmatiorotherlong-grainrice,groundfineinacleanspiceor coffeegrinder,or1¼cupspreground rice (rice sooji, ricerava, or idlirava)1teaspoonsalt½cup freshcoconutmilk (seeGlossaryof Ingredients)or1/3 cup cannedcoconutmilkmixedwith3tablespoonswater1cupfreshlygratedcoconut(seeGlossaryofIngredients)or1cupfrozengratedcoconut,thawed

Equipment

Puttu steamerwithcylindermold (a standard steamerwillholdabout1½cups)

1.MAKETHESAUCE:(Ifusingcannedchickpeas,placetheminabowlandsetaside.Stirtheturmericinto5cupsofwaterandsetaside.)Drainthechickpeasandplaceina small pot.Add the turmeric and 5 cupswater and bring to a boil over highheat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the chickpeas are justtender, 1 to 1½ hours. Remove from the heat. Reserve the cooking liquid bydrainingthechickpeasoverabowl,thensetboththechickpeasandthecookingliquidaside.

2.Melt thegheeinamediumpotovermediumheat.Stir in themustardseedsandcurryleavesandcookfor1minute.Addtheonion,garlic,ginger,andchileandstirfrequentlyuntil theonionissoft,about4minutes.MixintheCoconutCurry Masala and stir frequently until the onion is golden brown, about 2minuteslonger.Stirinthecookedchickpeas,thesugar,the2teaspoonssalt,andthepepper. Immediatelypour in justenoughof thereservedcooking liquid(or

turmericwater)tocoverthechickpeas.Ifthereisnotenoughcookingliquid,usewater. Cover and simmer until the chickpeas are tender, about 10 minutes.Remove from theheatandsetaside. (Youcanmake thesauce inadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

3. MAKE AND STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Combine the ground rice and the 1 teaspoon salt in amediummixingbowl.Stirinjustenoughcoconutmilktomakethegroundricemoistenough to forma looseclumpwhenyousqueeze it.This isnotadoughbutmoreofagritty,loosemixture.

4.Removethecylindermoldfromtheputtusteamer,fill theputtupothalfwaywithwater,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.

5.Makesurethebottomendofthemoldhasitssteamingplateinplace.Fillthemoldwith1heapingtablespoonofcoconut,followedby3heapingtablespoonsof the rice mixture. Tap the mold gently to settle the layers. Continue withanotherlayerofcoconut,thenthericemixture,thenafinallayerofcoconut.Youwillhaveusedhalfofthecoconutandhalfofthericemixture.Placethecoveron the top of the mold and insert the mold into the pot. Reduce the heat tomediumandsteamfor10to12minutes.Steamwillstartvigorouslystreamingoutthetopofthemoldwhenthedumplinghascookedthrough.

6.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingpotholders,removethemoldfromthepot,layitonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowtheputtutocoolslightly.Liftthecover off themold and use the end of awooden spoon to push the steamingplate,andtheputtualongwithit,upthroughthemoldandontoaservingplate.Coverandkeepwarm.Assembleandsteamthesecondputtu.

7.Whilethesecondputtu issteaming,reheat thesauce.Oncethesecondputtuhasbeencookedandplacedontheplate,spoonthesauceoverbothandserve.

COCONUTCURRYMASALA

MAKESABOUT¾CUP

2/3 cup freshly grated and dried coconut (seeGlossary of Ingredients) orunsweeteneddriedgratedcoconut2tablespoonscorianderseeds2tablespoonspeeledblackgram(uraddal)1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds1teaspoonfenugreekseeds1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1to2smalldriedredchiles10freshcurryleavesOne1-inchcinnamonstick4wholecloves

Equipment

Cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder

1. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add all the ingredients. Stircontinuouslyuntilthemixtureisgoldenbrown,about5minutes.Removefromtheheat,placeinabowl,andsetasidetocool.

2.Pulse themixture inbatches in thespicegrinderuntil it isacoarsepowder.Measureoutwhatyouneedforyourrecipeandkeeptherestinatightlysealedglasscontainerintherefrigeratorforupto3months.

SmallPorkBunsZhuRouBaozi(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT24DUMPLINGS)

Zhuroubaozimaybethebest-knownChinesedumpling.MadeoutofthesameyeastdoughasMantou(January),XiangGuBaozi(recipefollows),andNuoMiJuan (February), these steamed dumplings are a type of supremely soft andperfectlyseasonedporksandwich.Thesesmallerversionsarethemostpopular:oneisasnack,whiletwoorthreemakealightmeal.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingthePinched-TopFold.

FortheFilling

½poundbonelessporkloin,choppedfine,orfreshlygroundpork1largecarrot,finelygrated2scallions,slicedintoverythinrings2teaspoonsfinelygratedfreshgingeror¼teaspoonground1teaspooncornstarch¼teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper¼teaspoonsugar2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1½tablespoonssoysauce

FortheDough

1 recipeMantou (SteamedBreadRolls) dough, preferablymadenomorethan2hoursinadvance

Unbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

ForCooking

Softlettuceleaves,suchasBoston,tolinethesteamerbasket

Equipment

2¾-inchroundcookiecutter8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKE THE FILLING:Combineallthefillingingredientsinamediumbowl.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast20minutes.(Youcanmakethefillinginadvanceandkeepittightlycoveredintherefrigeratorforupto1day.)

2.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthezhuroubaozi,reviewthePinched-TopFold,whichproducesnatural pleatswhen you simplygather up the sides andpinchoffthetop.

3. Line a traywith a kitchen towel and sprinklewith a little flour.Also havereadythedoughandthefilling.

4.Kneadthedoughonceortwiceonaflouredsurface,divideitinhalf,andsetone piece aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball,thenrollitoutuntilit’sabout1/8inchthick.Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.

5.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually10to12.Collect the scraps from around the rounds and put them aside under a dampkitchentowelforlateruse.

6.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingof

watertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Placearoundedteaspoonoffillinginthecenterofeachround.Gatherupthesidesoftheround,joiningtheedgestoformacasuallypleated top.Pinchandsqueeze thegathereddoughat the topof thedumplingtoseal.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.Thereisusuallyalittlenubofthedoughatthetopofthedumplingsassembledusing thePinched-TopFold that you can twist off for aneater look.Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.Combineallthedoughscraps,kneadthemintoaball,rollitout,cutoutasmanyroundsasyou can, and fill and fold those too. Allow the dumplings to rise at roomtemperatureonthetrayfor30to45minutesbeforesteaming.

7.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to aboil overhighheat.Line thebasketwith the lettuceleaves.Gently arrange asmany dumplings as you can, spacing them about½inchapart,ontopoftheleaves.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,andsteamonhighheatfor20minutes.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on afoldedkitchentowel,andallowthezhuroubaozitocoolslightly.Usingaspoonorasmallspatula,movethemtoaplateandserve.Cookanyremainingzhuroubaozi.Thesearebesteatenhotbutarealsogoodatroomtemperature.Zhuroubaozicanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).Ifreheatingfrozenzhuroubaozi,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

SmallMushroomBunsXiangGuBaozi(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT24DUMPLINGS)

Theintenselyflavoredfillingforthesesteamedbunscanbemadefromseveraldifferent types of driedmushrooms.The thin, densewood earmushrooms areexcellent, but they must be chopped very fine. You can use dried maitakemushrooms if you can’t findwood earmushrooms, or you can just addmoredried shiitake. You can also make the lighter, fresh mushroom variation thatfollows.Xiang gu baozi are a terrific snack, light breakfast, lunch, dinner, orappetizer.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingthePinched-TopFold.

FortheFilling

8largedriedshiitakeorblackmushrooms2 ounces dried wood ear mushrooms or dried maitake, soaked with theshiitakemushroomsin2cupshotwaterfor30minutes1tablespoonsoysauce1teaspooncornstarch¼teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper¼teaspoonsugar2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil2teaspoonsfinelygratedfreshgingeror¼teaspoonground1smallcarrot,finelygrated½cupfinelychoppedfreshgarlicchivesorcilantro1scallion,slicedintothinrings

FortheDough

1 recipeMantou (SteamedBreadRolls) dough, preferablymadenomorethan2hoursinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

ForCooking

Softlettuceleaves,suchasBoston,tolinethesteamerbasket

Equipment

2¾-inchroundcookiecutter8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKE THE FILLING:Fishout thesoakedmushroomswithyourfingers,squeezingtheexcess liquidback into thebowl.Set the liquidaside.Removeanddiscard thestemsandfinelychopthemushroomcaps.Strainandpour1cupofthesoakingliquidintoabowl.Stirthesoysauce,cornstarch,salt,pepper,andsugarintothereservedsoakingliquidandsetaside.

2.Heattheoilinalargeskilletoverhighheat.Addthemushroomsandgingerandstirfor1minute.Bitsofthemushroomandgingerwillsticktothepan.Thisisfinefornow.Mixinthecarrotandgarlicchivesandcookfor1minutelonger,stirring continuously. Pour in the soaking liquidmixture and scrape loose anystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanwithawoodenspoon.Simmeruntilmostof the liquid has cookedoff but the filling is stillmoist and sticking together.Removefromtheheatandstirinthescallion.Scoopintoabowl,breakitupabit,andandallowit tocool toroomtemperature.(Youcanmakethefillinginadvanceandkeepittightlywrappedintherefrigeratorforupto1day.)

3.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthexianggubaozi,reviewthePinched-TopFold,whichproducesnatural pleatswhen you simplygather up the sides andpinchoffthetop.

4. Line a traywith a kitchen towel and sprinklewith a little flour.Also havereadythedoughandthefilling.

5.Kneadthedoughonceortwiceonaflouredsurface,divideitinhalf,andsetone piece aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball,then roll it outuntil it’s justunder 1/8 inch thick.Sprinklewith flour if it getssticky.

6.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually10to12.Collect the scraps from around the rounds and put them aside under a dampkitchentowelforlateruse.

7.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakethemstickyenoughtoseal.Placearoundedteaspoonoffillinginthecenterofeachround.Gatherupthesidesoftheround,joiningtheedgestoformacasuallypleatedtop.Pinchandsqueezethegathereddoughatthetopofthedumplingstosealthetop.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetter seal. There is usually a little nub of dough at the top of the dumplingsassembledusingthePinched-TopFoldthatyoucantwistoffforaneater look.Place theassembleddumplings inasingle layeron theprepared trayandkeepthemcoveredwithakitchen towelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthe first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.Combineallthedoughscraps,kneadthemintoaball,rollitout,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,andfillandfoldthosetoo.Allowthedumplingstoriseonthetrayatroomtemperaturefor30to45minutesbeforesteaming.

8.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to aboil overhighheat.Line thebasketwith the lettuceleaves.Gently arrange asmany dumplings as you can, spacing them about½inchapart,ontopoftheleaves.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,andsteamonhighheatfor15minutes.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on afolded kitchen towel, and allow the xiang gu baozi to cool slightly. Using aspoonorasmallspatula,movethemtoaplateandserve.Cookanyremaining

xiang gu baozi. These are best eaten hot, but they are also good at roomtemperature.Xianggubaozicanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6months (seeTips).Reheat theminasteamerpotoruse theSteamerPlateSetup (Tips). If reheating frozen xiang gu baozi, allow them to thaw beforesteaming.

FRESHMUSHROOMBUNS

Replacethedriedshiitakeandwoodearmushroomswith8ouncesfreshshiitakemushrooms,stemmed.

Pineapple-PecanTamalesTamalesDulces(Mexico)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

The combination of corn and fresh pineapple creates a flavor that is wellbalanced and irresistible. The Mexican brown sugar panela (see Glossary ofEquipment) roundsoff the flavorsof this sweet tamale.Mostof the tang fromthe pineapple disappears, and the level, creamlike flavor of the corn becomesmorepronounced.Choppedpecans,raisins,andsmallchunksofpineappleaddextratextureandaburstofflavor.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheSingle-HuskTamaleFold.

FortheBatter

2/3cupnonhydrogenatedvegetableshortening,atroomtemperature2cupsmasaharina1teaspoonbakingpowder1/8teaspoonsalt1ouncepanela,choppedfine(about½cup),orotherunrefinedsugar(seeGlossaryofIngredients)½cupwarmwater½smallpineapple,peeled,cored,andpureed(about1½cups)

FortheFilling

1¾cupsroastedorrawunsaltedshelledpecans½smallpineapple,peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inchpieces

1cupraisins

ForAssembly

20to25prepareddriedcornhusks(seeGlossaryofEquipment)Sixteen12-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthetamales

Equipment

Electrichandmixer8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEBATTER30MINUTESINADVANCE:Whiptheshorteninginamediumbowlwiththehandmixeratmediumspeeduntillightandglossy,about5minutes.

2.Combinethemasaharina,bakingpowder,andsaltinalargebowl.

3. Combine the panela and the warmwater in a medium bowl, crushing anyhard-to-dissolve bits with the back of a wooden spoon. Once the sugar hasdissolved,addittothemasaharinamixturealongwiththepineapplepureeandmixwiththehandmixeratlowspeedtocombine.Raisethespeedtohighandmix in the shortening, one spoonful at a time.Continue tomix at high speeduntilthebatterisverylightandfluffy,about10minutes.Coverandrefrigeratefor at least 30 minutes before using. (You can also make the batter 1 day inadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainer.)

4.PREPARETHEPECANS:Ifusingroastedpecans,coarselychopthem.Ifusingrawpecans,roastthemina375°Fovenuntiltheyjustbegintobrown,6to8minutes.Oncethepecanshavecooledcompletely,coarselychopandsetthemaside.

5.ASSEMBLETHETAMALES:Beforeassemblingthetamales,reviewtheSingle-HuskTamaleFold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the pineapple,pecans,theraisins,thehusks,andtheties.

7.Loosenupthechilledbatterbywhiskingitfor2to3minutes.Theconsistencyshouldbe something similar toagrainyanddensemousse. If thebatter is toostiff towhiskeasily,mixinsomecoldwater,a littleata time,until it issofterandfluffier.

8.Pickoutthebest16husks.Layflat1husk,smoothsideup.Center2roundedtablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it to the right until itforms a rectangle about 4× 2½ inches.Arrange 3 to 4 pieces of pineapple, atablespoonofthepecans,andatablespoonoftheraisinsontopofthelefthalfoftherectangleonly.Foldtherightsideof thehuskover,sandwichingthefillingbetweenthebatter.Foldtheleftsideofthehuskoverthetop.Foldtheendsofthehuskoverasfirmlyasyoucantocreateaneatrectangularpackage.Tiethepackageinacrisscrosspatterntopreventthehuskfromunfoldingandplaceonthelinedtray.Repeatuntilyouhave16tamales.

9.Setasidethenumberoftamalesthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

10.STEAMTHETAMALES:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Meanwhile,arrangethepackagesupright,leaning,orwedgedlooselyagainsteachotherinthebasket.Ballupandstick inanyextrahusksorparchmentpaper tokeep the tamalesproppedup ifneeded. Blanket themwith any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor1½hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.(Ifsteamingfrozentamales,placethemdirectlyinthebasketandcooktheminthesteamerpotfor2hours.Donotallowthetamalestothawbeforecooking.)

11.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Letthetamalescoolslightly,cutoffthestrings,andserve.

It’sbestnottoopenthetamalestoosoonandtopeelbackthehusksjustbeforeeatingsothattheystaymoistandwarm.

TamalesStuffedwithChickenandTomatilloSauceTamalesdePollo(Mexico)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

Thetangyandrefreshingqualitiesoftomatilloseemtoworkbestwithchicken,andtheyareoftenpairedtoformthebaseforalargevarietyoftamalefillings.Tomatillosinstantlyinvigorateleftoverchicken,evenmeatthat’sbeencookedalongtimetomakeabroth.Ifyoualreadyhavesomechickenbrothonhandforthebatter,youcanalsouseleftoverroastedchickenor,ofcourse,freshchicken,aslongasyoucookitbeforemixingitintothetomatillosauce.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheSingle-HuskTamaleFold.

FortheFilling

6mediumtomatillos,paperyhusksremovedandfruitrinsed2to3serranochilesor1largejalapeñochile1smallwhiteonion,choppedcoarse3garliccloves,crushed¼cupfinelychoppedfreshcilantrostemsandleaves½teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsnonhydrogenatedlardoraneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed1cupbite-sizedpiecesofcookedchicken(ifyouaremakingfreshchickenbroth for the tamale batter, thiswill provide youwithmore than enoughchicken)

FortheBatter

1 recipe Tamale Batter from Fresh Masa or Tamale Batter from Masa

Harina(recipesfollow)madewithchickenbroth

ForAssembly

20to25prepareddriedcornhusks(seeGlossaryofEquipment)Sixteen12-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthetamales

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHESAUCEANDTHEFILLING:Preheattheovento400°F.

2.Placethetomatillosandchilesonabakingsheetandroastuntiltheyaresoftand charred in spots, about 20minutes.Once they are cool enough to handle,pick off or rub off the patches of charred skin as best you can. Trim thetomatillosandthepeppersoftheirfirmerstemends.Forlessheat,coreandseedthechiles.

3.Pulsetheonion,garlic,androastedtomatillosandchilesinafoodprocessoruntilthemixtureislightandpulpy.Addthecilantroandsaltandpulseonceortwicetocombine.Therewillbeabout1½cupsofsauce.

4.Meltthelardinasmallpotoverhighheat.Carefullyandquicklypourinthetomatillosauce.Reducetheheattomediumandsimmer,stirringfrequently,untilthesaucethickensanddarkensincolor,about8minutes.(Youcanalsomakethesauceinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

5.Pourhalfofthecookedtomatillosauceintoasmallbowlandsetasidetocool.Mixthechickenintothesaucethatremainssimmeringinthepotandcookfor3minuteslonger.Removefromtheheat,scoopintoamediumbowl,andsetaside

tocool.

6.ASSEMBLETHETAMALES:Beforeassemblingthetamales,reviewtheSingle-HuskTamaleFold.

7.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandhavereadythebatter,thecookedchicken,thetomatillosauce,thehusks,andtheties.

8.Loosenupthebatterbywhiskingitfor2to3minutes.Theconsistencyshouldbesomethingsimilar toagrainyanddensemousse. If thebatter is toostiff towhisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer andfluffier.

9.Pickoutthebest16husks.Layflat1husk,smoothsideup.Center2roundedtablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it to the right until itforms a rectangle about 4 × 2½ inches. Arrange a generous forkful of thechickenmixtureand thenaspoonfulof thesauceon topof the lefthalfof therectangle only. Fold the right side of the husk over, sandwiching the fillingbetweenthebatter.Foldtheleftsideofthehuskoverthetop.Foldtheendsofthehuskoverasfirmlyasyoucantocreateaneatrectangularpackage.Tiethepackageinacrisscrosspatterntopreventthehuskfromunfoldingandplaceonthelinedtray.Repeatuntilyouhave16tamales.

10.Setasidethenumberoftamalesthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

11.STEAMTHETAMALES:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Meanwhile,arrangethepackagesupright,leaning,orwedgedlooselyagainsteachotherinthebasket.Ballupandstick inanyextrahusksorparchmentpaper tokeep the tamalesproppedup ifneeded. Blanket themwith any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor1½hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.(Ifsteamingfrozentamales,placethemdirectlyinthebasketandcooktheminthesteamerpotfor2

hours.Donotallowthetamalestothawbeforecooking.)

12.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Letthetamalescoolslightly,cutoffthestrings,andserve.It’sbestnottoopenthetamalestoosoonandtopeelbackthehusksjustbeforeeatingsothattheystaymoistandwarm.

TAMALEBATTERFROMFRESHMASA

MAKES3½CUPS

½cupnonhydrogenatedlardorvegetableshortening2cupsFreshMasa(recipefollows)½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonbakingpowder¾cupChickenBrothwithMexicanFlavors orPorkBrothwithMexicanFlavors,lukewarm

Equipment

Electrichandmixer

1.Placethelardinalargebowlandwhipwiththehandmixeratmediumspeeduntillightandcreamy,about5minutes.

2.Slowlyaddabouthalfofthecornmasawhilecontinuingtowhipatmediumspeed.Oncecombined,whipinthesalt,bakingpowder,andremainingmasa.

3. Slowly drizzle in the broth as you continue whipping the batter, scrapingdown the sides as you go.Once all the broth has been added, raise themixerspeed tohighandcontinue tomixuntil thebatter is light and fluffy, about10minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast30minutes.Youcanalsomake thebatter inadvanceandkeep it refrigerated inatightlysealedcontainerforupto1day.

FRESHMASA

MAKESABOUT2POUNDS(6½CUPS)

2tablespoonsslakedlime(calciumhydroxideor“cal”)1½poundsdriedfieldcornkernels(about4cups),sortedandrinsed

Equipment

Colanderwithsmallholes(about2mm)

1.Fillalargepotwith2quartswater,stirintheslakedlime,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Stir in thecornkernels,whichwill immediately turnabrighteryellow.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmerfor30minutes.Removefromtheheatandallowthekernelstosoakforatleast3hours,butnomorethan8hours.Drainandreturnthekernelstothepot.

2.Placeaboutathirdofthekernelsinamediumbowlandaddenoughwatertocover thembyacoupleof inches.Rub thekernelsagainst eachotherbetweenyour palms to work off their skins. Swirl the bowl around occasionally,encouraging the loosened skins to float to the topof thewater so they canbecollectedorpouredoutof thebowl.Add freshwaterandcontinue rinsingandrubbingthekernelsuntilmostofthemhavebeenpeeled.Draintheskinnedcornandplaceitinalargebowl.Repeatwiththeremainingkernels.

3.Pinchoffthetougher,pointytipfromtheendofeachkernel.Rinsethekernelsin a colander under cool running water and wipe them dry as best you canbetweentwokitchentowels.

4.Placeathirdofthekernelsinafoodprocessorandprocessintoagrainymeal,about5minutes, scrapingdown thesidesasyougo.Sift themeal through thecolanderintoabowl,scoopingoutthecoarserbitsandplacingtheminasmall

bowl.Repeatwiththeremainingkernels.Scoopthecollectedcoarserbitsbackintothefoodprocessor,process,andsiftagain.

5.Measureouttheamountofmasayouneedforyourrecipe.Youcanalsomakethemasainadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto 3 days or frozen for up to 6months. Frozenmasamust be thawed beforeusing.

TAMALEBATTERFROMMASAHARINA

MAKES3½CUPS

1/3cupnonhydrogenatedlardorvegetableshortening,atroomtemperature1cupmasaharina¼teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonsalt1¼cupsChickenBrothwithMexicanFlavorsorPorkBrothwithMexicanFlavors,lukewarm

Equipment

Electrichandmixer

1.Placethelardinasmallbowlandwhipwiththehandmixeratmediumspeeduntillightandcreamy,about5minutes.

2.Combinethemasaharina,bakingpowder,andsaltinalargebowl.Pourinthebrothandwhipatmediumspeeduntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Continuewhippingasyouslowlyaddthelard,aspoonfulatatime.

3.Oncethelastspoonfuloflardhasbeenadded,raisethemixerspeedtohighandcontinuetomixuntilthebatterislightandfluffy,about10minutes,scrapingdown the sides of the bowl as you go. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30minutes.Youcanalsomake thebatter inadvanceandkeep it refrigerated inatightlysealedcontainerforupto1day.

PoundedRiceDumplingsStuffedwithStrawberriesIchigoDaifuku(Japan)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES12DUMPLINGS)

DaifukuisaclassicJapaneseconfectionmadewithmochiandsweetenedadzukibean paste. Ichigo daifuku includes the inspired addition of whole freshstrawberries. The combination of fresh berries, bean paste, and mochi is anunusual juxtaposition of flavors and tastes like an unusuallymellownut pasteandberrycandy.Thesweetestelement,byfar,isthebeanpaste,butbecauseit’ssandwichedbetweenthemochiandthefruit,itdoesn’toverwhelmthewaysomebean paste fillings can.Youwill need toworkwith small strawberries for thedumplingstoenduptherightsize.Cuttinglargeberriesinhalfortrimmingthemto size will only make them slippery and impossible to wrap the bean pastearound.

Becausefreshmochi issoverysoftandsticky, it isnot recommendedforsmallchildren.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBowlFold.

FortheFilling

½cupdriedadzukibeans,soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hours1/3cupsugar¼teaspoonsalt12smallstrawberries(about1incharound),stemmedandcapsremoved

FortheMochi

1 recipeMochi (Pounded RiceDumplings) dough, divided into 12 equal

pieces and rolled into balls, preferably made while the bean paste iscooling,butnomorethan1hourinadvance¼cuppotatostarch(katakuriko)fordustingandcoatingthedumplings

1.MAKE THE FILLING:Drainthebeansandplacetheminasmallsaucepan.Fill thepotwithenoughwatertocoverthebeansbyabout2inchesandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntilthebeansaresoftandjust beginning to split apart, 45 to 60minutes. Drain the beans and set themaside.

2.Placethesugarandsaltinthesamesaucepan,pourin¼cupwater,placeovermediumheat,andstiruntilallthesugarhasdissolved.Placeovermediumheatand continue stirring until all the sugar has dissolved. Mix in the beans andsimmerfor5minutes.

3.Turnthebeansandallofthecookingliquidintoafoodprocessor(don’trinsethe saucepan) and process until the mixture becomes a grainy paste, about 3minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Scoopthebeanpastebackintothesame saucepan. Place over medium heat and stir continuously until the pastebeginstoturnintoadoughyball,3to5minutes.Removefromtheheat,scoopinto a wide bowl, break it up a bit, set aside, and allow it to cool to roomtemperature.(Youcanalsomakethebeanpasteinadvanceandkeepitwrappedtightlyintherefrigeratorforupto3days.)

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingtheichigodaifuku,reviewtheBowlFold.

5. Have ready the cooled bean paste, the strawberries, themochi, and a traydustedwithpotatostarch.

6. Pinch off a small piece of bean paste and roll it into a ball about 1 incharound.Patitoutintoa2-inchround.Ifit’salittlecrumbly,putitbackintothebowl andwork in a littlewater.Hold the round in thepalmofyourhandandplaceastrawberryinthecenter.Closebypushingandpinchingtheedgesofthebeanpastearoundandoverthestrawberryuntilitissurrounded,pushingoutany

air.Placeonthepreparedtrayandrepeattheassemblystepswiththeremainingbeanpasteandstrawberries.Coverwithatowelandsetaside.

7.Pickuponeballofmochianduseyourthumbstoshapetheballintoabowlabout2inchesdeep.Thiswillbeawideandfloppybowlthatisbestsupportedinthepalmofyourhand.Placeawrappedstrawberryinthecenterofthemochibowl.Closebypushingandpinchingtheedgesofthemochiaroundandoverthewrappedstrawberryuntilit’ssurrounded,pushingoutanyair.Rerollintoaball,dust with some potato starch, and place back on the tray. Repeat with theremainingmochi and wrapped strawberries. Serve immediately or keep themcoveredatroomtemperaturefornomorethan5hours.

Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithChickenandBambooShootsNuoMiJi(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES4DUMPLINGS)

Thenamenuomijimeans“glutinousricechicken,”becausethericeisthoughtofasamoist,chewyextensionofthechickenpiecesitsurrounds.Thisdumplingoften includes bamboo shoots and whatever meaty extras are around.Mushrooms, dried shrimp, Chinese sausage, and hard-boiled eggs are favoriteadditions, but any of these things can be left out or substituted. You must,however,usedried lotus leaves towrapnuomi ji, because the leaves infuse adry,tealikeflavorintotherice.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheLotus-LeafFold.

FortheMarinade

1tablespoongrapeseedorotherneutraloil1tablespoonsoysauce1tablespoonoystersauce1teaspooncornstarch1/8teaspoonsugar¼teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper

FortheFilling

2chickenthighswithskin,cutinhalfacrossthebone,or4chickenwings4smalldriedshiitakeorblackmushrooms,soakedin1½cupshotwaterfor30minutes

1teaspooncornstarch10to12smallormediumdriedshrimp,soakedinhotwatertocoverfor30minutes2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil¼poundbonelessporkloin,choppedveryfineorcoarselyground½medium fresh bamboo shoot, trimmed and sliced thin, or one 8-ouncecanslicedbambooshoots,drained2tablespoonsricewine(optional)1linkChineseporksausage(lachang),cutdiagonallyinto4equalpieces1largehard-boiledegg,quartered

FortheRice

2 cups short-grain sweet (glutinous)white rice, preferably fromChina orJapan,rinsed(seeGlossaryofIngredients)2teaspoonssalt

ForAssembly

8preparedlotus-leafhalves(seeGlossaryofEquipment)

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot24-inchsquareofmuslinLargeskilletwithacover

1.PREPARETHEFILLING1TO8HOURSINADVANCE:Whisktogetherallthemarinadeingredientsinamedium bowl. Add the chicken and turn until coated evenly. Cover andrefrigerateforatleast1hour.

2.STEAM THE RICE:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,

wringitout,thendrapeitinsidethebasket,creatingalining.Scoopthericeintothelinedbasketandspreaditoutevenly.Sprinklethe2teaspoonssaltovertherice.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor25 minutes. Every 10 minutes or so, drizzle ½ cup water over the rice, mixgently,coveragain,andcontinuesteaming.

3.Removethepotfromtheheat.Thericewillbeslightlyundercooked.Movethe rice to a largeplateor tray, spread it out to cool, and thendivide it into8equalpiles.

4.COOK THE FILLING:Fishout thesoakedmushroomswithyourfingers,squeezingtheexcess liquid back into the bowl. Remove and discard the stems and set themushroom caps aside. Measure out ¼ cup of the soaking liquid, stir in thecornstarch, and set aside.Drain the shrimp and set aside.Have themarinatedchickenready.

5.Heatthe2tablespoonsoil inalargeskilletoverhighheat.Shakeoffexcessmarinade from the chicken pieces (set themarinade aside for later use), placethem in the pan, and immediately stir until the chicken just begins to brown,about3minutes.Addthepork,shrimp,mushrooms,andbambooshootandcookfor1minutelonger,stirringconstantly.

6.Add thericewineandscrapeupanystickybits fromthebottomof thepanwithawoodenspoon.Mixthemushroomandcornstarchliquidintothechickenmarinade, pour it over the chickenmixture, and stir until the sauce begins tosimmer.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andcookfor5minutes.Removefromtheheat.Divide thefillingevenlyamong4smallbowls.Eachbowlshouldhaveamushroomandapieceofchicken.

7.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthenuomiji,reviewtheLotus-LeafFold.

8. Have ready the prepared lotus leaves, the preportioned rice and the filling,sausage,andthehard-boiledegg.Alsohavealargeplatetoplacethedumplingsoncetheyhavebeenassembled.

9.Layflat2oftheleafhalves,smoothsideup.Center1portionofriceononeofthe leaf halves.Moisten your handswithwater and pat the rice into a 6-inchroundpatty.Spoonabowloffillingontotherice.Nestleapieceofsausageandegg into the filling. Pick up another portion of rice and form another 6-inchround patty as best you can. Place this patty on top of the filling, creating aloose, slightly messy sandwich. Use your hands to pack the pile inward justgentlyenoughtoneatentheedges.

10. Fold one of the longer sides of the leaf snugly over the pile of rice andfilling.Foldtheoppositesideoverjustassnugly.Foldoverthe2endsastightlyasyoucantocreateaneatpackage.Centerthispackage,seamsidedown,onthesecondleafhalf.Usingthesamefoldingpattern,wrapthepackageastightlyasyoucan.Keepthisbundlefoldedsidedownonyourplatetopreventtheleavesfromunfolding.Repeattheassemblystepsuntilyouhave4bundles.

11.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto the pot, andbring to a boil over highheat.Arrange the bundles, seam sidedown,inthebasket.Theycanbewedgedagainsteachotherifthespaceinthesteamer is tight.Place thebasket in thepot,cover, reduce theheat tomedium,andsteamfor30minutes.

12.Remove the pot from the heat.Carefully remove the basket, place it on afoldedkitchentowel,andletthenuomijicoolslightly.Removetheouterleaves(unlessyouarefreezingthedumplings),placethedumplingsseamsideuponaplate,andserve.It’sbestnottoopenthepackagestoosoon,andtopeelbacktheleavesonlyjustbeforeeating,sothattheystaymoistandwarm.Nuomijicanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozen(unopened)forupto6months(seeTips).ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).Ifreheatingfrozennuomiji,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

June

FLATTENEDRICEDUMPLINGSWITHGRATEDCOCONUTANDANISESUGAR

Palitao(Philippines)

LEAFBREAD,AFRESHCORN“TAMALE”

(UnitedStatesandCanada)

TAROBALLSINASWEETCOCONUTSOUP

BuaLoiPhuak(Thailand)

CANARYPUDDINGWITHLEMONCURD

(England)

BLACKSESAMEROLL-UPS

HeiZiMaJuan(China)

LEMONYLENTIL-CHARDSOUPWITHBULGURDUMPLINGS

KibbetRaheb(Lebanon)

FISHRAVIOLIWITHATHINNEDCREAMSAUCE

RaviolidiPesce(Italy)

STICKYRICEDUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHPORKANDSHRIMP

BánhItTrán(Vietnam)

RICEANDTAPIOCADUMPLINGSTOPPEDWITHSHRIMPANDBEANPASTE

BánhBèo(Vietnam)

PORKTAMALESWITHGREENOLIVESANDJALAPEÑO

TamalesdePuerco(Mexico)

THEARMOFTHEQUEENTAMALE

BrazodelaReina(Mexico)

LEAF-WRAPPEDRICEBUNDLESSTUFFEDWITHCHICKENANDPEANUTS

JuanesdeArroz(Peru)

FlattenedRiceDumplingswithGratedCoconutandAniseSugarPalitao(Philippines)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

Thesesmallovaldumplingsaremadeof sweet rice flourandwater.Thiseasydoughcanbemadeinamatterofseconds,fordumplingsthataregooey,chewy,and surprisingly fragrant.A topping of grated coconut and anise sugar adds anecessary sweetness.Many recipes use sesame seeds instead of anise, but thelicoriceflavorofaniseprovidesamuchmoreunexpectedflavor.

FortheDumplings

1¼ cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from the Philippines orThailand,plussomeextrafordusting2/3cupwarmwater

FortheCoating

1cupfreshlygratedcoconut(seeGlossaryofIngredients)orfrozengratedcoconut,thawed2teaspoonsaniseseedsor1tablespoonsesameseeds2tablespoonssugar

Equipment

Large,widebowltoholdthecookeddumplings

Mortarandpestle

1.MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Place 1 cup of the rice flour in amediumbowl and keep theremaining¼cuphandy.Pourinthewarmwaterandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Kneadthedoughinthebowlforaminute.Thisdoughneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifitistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.

2.Fillalargepothalfwaywithlightlysaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

3.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittlericeflour.Spreadthegrated coconut out on a large plate and have another plate ready to hold thedumplingsoncethey’vebeencoated.

4.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1¼inchesaround.Gentlyflattenandshapeitbetweenyourhandsintoanovalpattyabout¼inchthick,placeitonthepreparedtray,andcontinuewiththeremainingdough.

5. COOK AND COAT THE DUMPLINGS: Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into thesimmeringwater.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,about2minutes,thencookfor2minuteslonger.

6.Removethedumplingswithaslottedspoon,placetheminthelargebowl,anddrizzlewithaladleofthecookingliquidtopreventsticking.

7.Workingquickly,removeonedumplingfromthebowl,andifitisatalldry,dampen its surfacewithwet fingers to ensure anevencoating.Place it on thegratedcoconut,gentlypressbothsidesintothecoconut,thenplaceontheotherplate.Repeatwiththeremainingdumplingsandsetaside.

8.Toasttheaniseseedsinasmallskilletovermediumheat,stirringconstantlyfor 2 minutes. Immediately move them to a bowl to cool, then grind in the

mortarwith thepestle.Mix together thegroundaniseseedsand thesugar inasmall bowl. Serve the palitao at room temperature with a sprinkling of anisesugar.

LeafBread,aFreshCorn“Tamale”(UnitedStatesandCanada)SERVES4TO6(MAKES12DUMPLINGS)

Leaf bread, sometimes called Iroquois leaf bread, includes no fat and ismadeonlyfromfreshlycutcornandalittlecornmeal.Oncethecornhasbeenpulpedandmixedwiththecornmeal,thebatterisscoopedbackintothehusks,wrappedintosmallpackages,andsteamed.Servethesedumplingswithmeltedbutterandasprinklingofsaltforanappealingsnackorside.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheTwo-HuskTamaleFold1(Wide).

FortheDumplings

6largeearsofcornwithhusks2/3cupcoarseyellowcornmeal

ForAssembly

Twelve20-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingtheleafbread

ForServing

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeserving

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEBATTER:Removethehusksfromthecornandseparatethemfromthesilk.Setasidethesilkandahandfulofthesmallerhusksforlateruse.Countout24ofthelargesthusks,rinsethem,patdry,andsetaside.

2.Cutthekernelsoffthecobsoveralargeboardoratowel-linedtraytomakethekernelseasiertocollect.Youwillneed5cupsofkernels.

3.Processthekernelsinafoodprocessoruntilalmostsmooth,about3minutes,scrapingdown thesidesasyougo.Pour intoa largebowlandaddhalfof thecornmeal.Continuemixingasyouaddmorecornmeal,alittleatatime,untilthebatterisstiffenoughjusttoholditsshapewhenscoopedupwithaspoon.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingtheleafbread,reviewtheTwo-HuskTamaleFold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generousportions of batter by overlapping fresh corn husks. Dried husks are typicallymuchlargerthanfreshhuskssothere’snoneedtooverlap,buttheywillslightlyaltertheflavorofthedumplings.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandhavereadythebatter,the24husks,andtheties.

6. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with thewidest ends on opposite sides.Overlap the husks by about 1½ inches. Centerabout½cupofbatterontopoftheoverlappinghusks.Foldoveroneside.Foldovertheoppositeside.Foldtheendsoftheoverlappinghusksoverastightlyasyou can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern topreventthehusksfromunfoldingandplaceitonthelinedtray.Repeatuntilyouhave12packages.

7.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andstirinthereservedcornsilk.Meanwhile,arrangethepackagesin

flatlayersinsidethebasket.Blanketthemwiththesmaller,reservedhusks.Placethebasket in thepot, reduce theheat tomedium,cover,andsteamfor1hour.Check thewater levelhalfway through the cookingand replenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

8.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Lettheleafbreadcoolslightly.Cutoffthestrings(unlessyouarefreezingthedumplings)andservewithmeltedbutterandasprinkleofsalt.It’sbestnottoopenthepackagestoosoon,andtopeelbackthehusksjustbeforeeating,sothattheystaymoistandwarm.Leafbreadcanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozen(unopened)forupto6months(seeTips).Reheattheminasteamerpotoruse theSteamerPlateSetup(Tips). If reheatingfrozen leafbread,allowittothawbeforesteaming.

TaroBallsinaSweetCoconutSoupBuaLoiPhuak(Thailand)

SERVES4TO8

Bualoiphuak,likeOnde-Onde(March),ismadeoutofariceflourdoughthat’sbeencombinedwith amashed rootvegetable togive thesedumplings a softertextureandasubtlefruityflavor.It takesonlyabout15minutes torolluptwohundred of these small dumplings, and they don’t need to be strictly equal insize.Tarocanbefoundatmanywell-stockedChinesegrocerystoresandAsianfoodmarkets.Lookforthelargeroot,notthesmaller,gooseegg–sizedroot.

FortheDumplings

1poundtaro,peeledandquartered2 cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from Thailand, plus someextrafordusting

FortheCoconutSoup

6cupsfreshcoconutmilk(seeGlossaryof Ingredients)or twoandahalf14-ouncecanscoconutmilkmixedwith2cupswater¼poundhardpalmsugaror½cupsoftpalmsugarorotherunrefinedsugar(seeGlossaryofIngredients)Pinchofsalt2freshorfrozenpandanleaves,eachfoldedinhalfandtiedintoaknotforeasierhandling,or1/8teaspoonpandanextract(optional)

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpotPotatoricer

1.STEAMTHETARO:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add1inchofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Placethetarointhebasket,thenplacethebasketinthepot.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamuntilthetaroisfork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat, carefully remove thebasket,placeitonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowthetarotocoolslightly.

2.MAKE THE SOUP:While the taro is steaming,pour thecoconutmilk intoamediumpot.Ifusinghardpalmsugar,chopitintosmallpieces.Addthepalmsugar,salt,andpandan leaves to thecoconutmilkandbring toaverygentlesimmerovermedium-lowheat, stirringcontinuouslywithawoodenspoon.Crushapartanybitsofsugarwiththebackofthespoon.Ifusingfreshcoconutmilk,becarefulnottoletitcometoaboil,orelseitwillseparateintowhatlookslikeasuperfinecurdleandyouwillhavetostartover.Removefromtheheatassoonasthesugarhasdissolvedandsetaside.

3.MAKETHEDOUGH:Cutthetarointosmallchunksandpressthemthroughthericerintoalargebowl.Add1½cupsofthericeflourtothetaro,keepingtheremaining½cuphandy.Rubwithyourfingersuntilthemixtureiswellcombinedandlookslikeacoarsemeal.Pourin¾cupwaterandworkthemixturewithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Thisdoughneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.If thedoughis toosoftandsticky,workinsomeof theremainingflour,alittleatatime.

4.MAKEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittlericeflour.

5. Pinch off a very small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about½ incharound.Sprinklewithrice flour if itgetssticky.Place theballon thepreparedtrayandcontinuewiththeremainingdough.Coverwithakitchentowelandset

aside.

6.Fillalargebowlhalfwaywithcoldwater.Fillalargepothalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.Carefullydropthedumplings,afewatatime,intothewaterandstirgentlytopreventsticking.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,about2minutes,thencookfor2minuteslonger.Removethedumplingswithaslottedspoon,placetheminthecoldwaterfor1minute,drain,andmovethemtoalargebowl.Cook,cool,anddrainthesecondbatchofdumplingsandplacetheminthebowl.

7. Bring the coconut soup back to a gentle simmer over low heat, add thedumplings, and cook for 2minutes to warm through. Remove from the heat,removethepandanleaves,andserve.

CanaryPuddingwithLemonCurd

(England)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES1DUMPLING)

ThereisalargevarietyoflemonpuddingsfromEngland,butthecanarypuddingis simple to make, exceptionally lemony, and cooks up flawlessly each time.Lining the basin with thin slices of lemon gives this pudding a lacy andglisteningcaponceitisunmolded.Ifyouwanttoskipmakingthecurd,youcanplace a large spoonful or two of lemonmarmalade in the bottomof the basin(unlinedwithlemonslices)beforepouringinthebatter.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheLemonCurd

1largeeggplus1largeeggyolk3tablespoonsfreshlemonjuiceand1tablespoongratedzest½cupsugar2tablespoons(¼stick)coldunsaltedbutter,cutinto4equalpieces

FortheDumpling

6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature½cupsugar3largeeggs,atroomtemperature3tablespoonsfreshlemonjuiceand1tablespoongratedzest1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour

¾teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmegPinchofsalt

ForAssemblyandCooking

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin1largelemonfordecoratingthetopofthepudding(optional)

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthsofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.MAKE THE LEMON CURD:Whisk theegg, eggyolk, lemon juice, and sugar in adoubleboileror inastainless-steelbowlsetontopofapotwith1 inchofsimmeringwater. (The bowl should not be touching the simmeringwater but should restdirectly above it.)Whiskvigorously at all timesuntil themixture is thick andcreamy, 7 to 8minutes.Remove from the heat andwhisk in the cold butter apieceata time.Mixin thelemonzestandletcoolslightly.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandpress itonto thesurfaceof thecurdso itwillnot formaskin. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. (You can also make the lemon curd inadvanceandkeep it refrigerated in a tightly sealedglass container forup to3days. Place a round of parchment paper on top of the curd to prevent it fromformingaskin.)

2. MAKE THE BATTER:Whisk together the room-temperature butter and the sugar in alargebowluntilcreamy.Whiskinthe3eggs,oneatatime,untilthemixtureislightandfrothy,3to5minutes.Whiskinthelemonjuiceandzest.

3.Combinetheflour,bakingpowder,nutmeg,andsaltinalargebowl.Addhalfof the flourmixture to theeggmixtureand folduntil smooth, then fold in thesecondhalfoftheflourmixture.

4. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSetup.

5.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.

6.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilit’sthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewater toaboiloverhighheat.Reduceheat tolowforagentlesimmer.

7.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutterandcoating itwithsugar. Ifusing lemonslices todecorate thepudding,cut thepeeloff thelemon,thenslicethelemoninto¼-inchrounds.Center thelargestroundoflemononthebottomofthebasin.Arrange4or5lemonroundsaroundthecenteredslice.Thesurroundinglemonslicesshouldbepartlyrestingon the bottom of the basin and partly climbing up against the basin’s side,creatinga“cap” for thepudding.Scoop thebatter into thebasinandwiggle itgentlytolevelitoff.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthebatter.Cover thebasinwith thedampmuslinandsecure it tightlywith thestring.Tie the opposite corners of themuslin into handles over the top of thepudding.

8.Using tongs or awooden spoon, push a folded cloth, like a standardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast1½hoursorupto2hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavor and texture.Check thewater level every30minutes and replenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

9.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholder tograsptheclothhandle,carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallow the pudding to cool for 5minutes.Remove the string, cloth, and paper.Unmoldbyinvertingitontoaplate.Sliceandservewithageneroustoppingoflemon curd. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in asteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup.

BlackSesameRoll-UpsHeiZiMaJuan(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

Heizimajuan isamildlysweetdessertorsnackdumplingwithaninkyblackcolorandapuresesameflavor.Thisdumplingissteamedinthinsheets,rolledup into a log, and then cut into large, bite-sized pieces.When you bite into apieceofheizimajuan,youcanfeelthelayerspopsoftlyinsideyourmouthasyourelishthecoarseyettendertextureofthegroundsesameseeds.

FortheDumplings

1/3cupblacksesameseeds(donotsubstitutewithwhitesesameseeds)2/3cupsugar¼cupwaterchestnutflourorriceflour,preferablyfromChinaorThailand½cuptapiocaflour(tapiocastarch)Pinchofsalt

ForCooking

Toastedsesameoiloraneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed,tocoatthecakepan

Equipment

Cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder2-inch-highsteamerrack

9-inchsquarecakepanPotlargeenoughtoholdboththerackandthepanwhencovered

1. Toast the black sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirringcontinuously, for 2minutes. Immediatelymove them to a small bowl to cool.Finelygrindinthespicegrinder.

2.Combinethegroundsesameseeds,sugar,waterchestnutflour,tapiocaflour,andsaltinamediumheatproofbowl.

3.Place thesteamer rack inside thepot.Keeping thecakepan level iskey forsucha thinbatter, so take the timenow tocheck forany tiltsor leaningswithyourpotorrack,andtrytoeventhingsoutasbestyoucan.Add1½inchesofwater to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a littlesesameoilaroundtheinsideofthecakepan.

4.Heat1¼cupswaterinasmallsaucepanovermediumheatuntilitishottothetouchbutnotclosetosimmering.Pourthewaterintothesesamemixtureandstiruntil therearenoclumps. Immediatelymeasureout½cupandpour it into thepreparedcakepan.Wigglethepanuntilthebatterspreadsoutevenly.

5.Carefullyplacethepanonthesteamerrack,cover,andsteamfor5minutes.Thiswaterybatterwillcookuptoatexturesimilartoafirmjelly.

6.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyliftthepanoutofthepot,placeitonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowthesesamesheettocoolforabout2minutes,oruntilcoolenoughtohandle.

7.Workingfromanysideofthepan,useyourfingerstonudgeanedgefreeandrollthethinsesamesheetupintoalog,jelly-rollstyle.Next,trimofftheunevenends.Cuttheloginto4equalpiecesandplacethemonalargeplateseamsidedown.Besuretostirandremixtheremainingbatter justbeforemeasuringouteachbatch.Servetheheizimajuanatroomtemperature.Heizimajuancanbe

kept tightlywrapped in the refrigerator for up to3days.Allow them to comebacktoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

LemonyLentil-ChardSoupwithBulgurDumplingsKibbetRaheb(Lebanon)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT32DUMPLINGS)

Chewy, nutty-tasting bulgur dumplings are what make this lentil soup sounusual. Bulgur is a form of cracked wheat and it will feel grainy andunworkablewhenyoustartmakingthedough,butitcomestogetherbeautifullyasyougraduallywork inmore flour.Because there is a fair amountof lemonjuice in this soup, the darker flavors of the lentils, bulgur, and chard becomezestyandvivid,makingitasrefreshingasitisnourishing.

FortheSoup

3tablespoonsoliveoil1mediumyellowonion,choppedfine2garliccloves,choppedveryfine½cupfinelychoppedfreshcilantrostemsandleaves1/3cupfreshlemonjuice1cupdriedbrownorgreenlentils,rinsed1smallbunchchard,stemmedandcutinto1-inchribbons2teaspoonssalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheDumplings

¼cupfinelygroundbulgur½teaspoonsalt¼cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting

1.MAKETHESOUP:Heattheoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandstirfrequentlyuntiltheonionissoft,about4minutes.Removefromtheheatandmixinthecilantro.Pourthelemonjuiceintoabowl.Measureout1/3cupoftheonionmixtureandsetaside.Addtheresttothelemonjuice,mixwell,andsetaside.

2.Fillamediumpotwith7cupswaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Stirinthe lentils, cover, reduce theheat to low, and simmer for20minutes.Add thechard,2teaspoonssalt,andthepepperandcookfor15minuteslonger.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilyouarereadytoaddthedumplings.

3. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS:While the soup is simmering, place 1/3 cup water in a smallsaucepanandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Remove from theheat, stir in thebulgur,cover,andsteepuntilall thewaterhasbeenabsorbed,about1minute.Scoopthebulgurintoamediumbowlandmixinthe1/3cuponionmixtureandthe½teaspoonsalt.Coverandrefrigeratefor15minutes.

4.Mix2 tablespoonsof theflour into thechilledbulgurmixtureandwork thedoughintoonemanageableball.Thisdoughneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifthedoughistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

6.Pinchoffaverysmallpieceofdough,rollitintoaballabout¾incharound,dustwithflour,andplaceonthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

7. COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Bring thesoupback toasimmerovermediumheat.Carefullydropthedumplings,afewatatime,intothesoup.Stirgently,cover,reducetheheat to low,andcookfor20minutes.Stir in the lemonandonionmixture justbeforeserving.

FishRavioliwithaThinnedCreamSauceRaviolidiPesce(Italy)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

Inthisrecipe,thepoachingliquidofthefishisturnedintoadeliciousandlightsauce for the dumplings. Sole is a standard choice, but just about any flaky,white-fleshedfishwilldo.Mixingsomechoppedanchoviesintothefillingisaquickway to strengthen the flavor, nomatterwhat fish you use. If filleting awholefish,besuretoaddtheheadandthebonesintothepoachingliquidforanevenricherflavor.

FortheDough

1½cupsItalian“type00”pastaflour,or¾cupunbleachedall-purposeflourmixedwith¾cupcakeflour,plussomeextrafordusting3largeeggs,plus1largeeggyolk1teaspoonoliveoil

ForthePoachingLiquid

¾cupwhitewine2teaspoonsfreshlemonjuice2garliccloves,slicedthin4freshthymesprigs3freshmarjoramsprigs¼teaspoonsalt

FortheFilling

4smallwhite-fleshedfishfillets,suchassole,flounder,orturbot(about1pound)1largeeggyolk½teaspoongratedlemonzest2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper

FortheSauce

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks2garliccloves,choppedveryfine2salt-packedoroil-packedanchovyfillets, rinsed if salt-packed,choppedfine1plumtomato,peeled,seeded(seeGlossaryofIngredients),andcoarselychopped¼cupheavycream1tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves

Equipment

2-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1. MAKE THE DOUGH: Place about 1¼ cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep theremaining¼cuphandy.Mixin theeggsandyolkwithaforkuntilall theegghasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifthedough iswet and sticky,work in someof the remaining flour, a little at atime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

2. Place the dough on a flatwork surface and knead for 4 to 5minutes. The

doughwillbesmoothandsomewhatfirm.Returnthedoughballtothebowlandbrushthesurfacewiththeoil.Coverwithadamptowelandletitrestforatleast20minutesbeforeusing.

3.POACHTHEFISH:Pourthewineand¾cupwaterintoamediumpotoralargeskilletwithacoverandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowandstirinthelemonjuice,slicedgarlic,thyme,marjoram,and¼teaspoonsalt.

4. Slide the fillets into the simmering liquid, cover, and cook for 5 minutes.Carefully remove the fillets from the brothwith a slotted spoon or a spatula,place them ina shallowbowl,andset themasideuntilcoolenough tohandle.Strainthepoachingliquidthroughasieveintoabowl, thenmeasureout1cupforthesauce.

5.MAKETHEFILLING:Flakeapartthefillets.Addtheeggyolk,lemonzest,2tablespoonsparsley,½ teaspoon salt, and the pepper andmixwellwith a fork.Cover andkeeprefrigeratedwhileyourolloutthedough.

6.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Alsohavereadythedoughandthefilling.

7.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceinto a ball, then roll it out until it’s 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

8.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually16to20.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

9.Layflat4to8doughrounds.Brushhalfofthemwithalittlewatertomakethemstickyenoughtoseal.Placearoundedteaspoonoffillinginthecenterof

each dampened round. Top each spoonful of fillingwith an unbrushed round,creating little sandwiches.Pinch the edgesof the rounds together, pushingoutany air, and seal. If desired, trimor crimp the edges for amore tailored look.Place theassembleddumplings inasingle layeron theprepared trayandkeepthemcoveredwithakitchen towelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

10.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplacethemintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutesbeforecooking.Chillingthemhelpstosetthedough,makingthedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.

11. COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Fill a largepothalfwaywith saltedwater andbring toaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Gentlydrophalfof the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to preventsticking.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,about2to3minutes,thencookfor3minuteslonger.

12.Usingaslottedspoon,removethedumplings,placetheminthelargebowl,and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent them from sticking.Cooktheremainingdumplings,placetheminthebowlwithanotherladleofthecookingliquid,andkeepwarm.

13.MAKETHESAUCEANDFINISHTHEDUMPLINGS:Meltthebutterinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Stir in the choppedgarlic and the anchovies and cook for 1minute.Carefullyandquicklypourthereservedcupofpoachingliquidintothepan.Simmeruntilthesaucehasreducedbyhalf,about5minutes.Reducetheheattolow,addthetomato,andswirlinthecream.

14.Draintheravioliandplacetheminthesimmeringsauce.Shakethepanuntiltheravioliarewellcoatedandheatedthrough.Removefromtheheat,sprinklewith1tablespoonparsley,andserve.

StickyRiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandShrimpBánhItTrán(Vietnam)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

AswithBánhBèo (recipe follows), these rice flourdumplingsbalance severalflavors,fromthesavoryandsweetpork-and-shrimpfillingtothesweetandtartfishsaucetheyaredippedin.Thedoughismadewithasweet(glutinous)riceflourthatgetsverystickyasitcooks,soliningthesteamerbasketwithlettuceleavesisessential.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBowlFold.

FortheFilling

¼cupdriedpeeledmungbeans10rawmediumshrimp,peeled,deveined,andkeptonice2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1largeshallot,choppedfine1garlicclove,choppedveryfine½poundbonelessporkbuttorshoulder,choppedfine1teaspoonsugar¼teaspoonsalt1teaspoonfishsauce,preferablyfromVietnam

FortheDough

2¼cupssweet(glutinous)riceflour,preferablyfromVietnamorThailand,plussomeextrafordusting1cupwarmwater

FortheTopping*

1tablespoongrapeseedorotherneutraloil2scallions,slicedthinintorings1recipeSweet,Sour,andSpicyFishSauce(recipefollows)

ForCookingandServing

Soft lettuce leaves, such as Boston, to line the steamer basket and theservingplate

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEFILLING:Placethemungbeansinasmallsaucepan,pourinenoughwatertocoverthemby1inch,andbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Coverandcookuntil the beans are very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, place the beans in amediumbowl,andmashthemwithaforkuntilmostlysmooth.

2.Finelychoptheshrimpandsetaside.

3.Heatthe2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addtheshallotandgarlicandstiruntil theshallot issoft,about3minutes.Mixinthemashedmungbeans, the chopped shrimp, and the pork.As the pork begins to brown,breakupanyclumpswithawoodenspoon.Addthesugar,salt,andfishsauceand stir frequently until the pork is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Removefromtheheat,scoopintoabowl,andsetasidetocool.(Youcanalsomakethefillinginadvanceandkeepittightlycoveredintherefrigeratorforupto2days.)

4. MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 2 cups of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep theremaining¼cuphandy.Pourinthewarmwaterandmixuntilalltheliquidhas

beenabsorbed.Kneadthedoughinthebowlforaminute.Thisdoughneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifitistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthebánhittrán,reviewtheBowlFold.

6. Line a traywith a kitchen towel and sprinklewith a little rice flour. Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

7.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1¼inchesaround.Keeptheremainingdoughcoveredwithakitchentowelasyouwork.Useyourthumbstoshapeitintoabowlabout1inchdeep.Thiswillbeawidebowlthatisbestsupportedinthepalmofyourhand.Placearoundedtablespoonoffillinginthecenterof thedoughbowl.Closebypushingandpinching theedgesof thedougharoundandoverthefillinguntilthefillingissurrounded,pushingoutanyair.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.Rerollintoaball,dustwithflour,andplaceonthepreparedtray.Continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

8.Setasidethenumberofdumplingsthatyouwouldliketocookandfreezetherest(seeTips).Keepthedumplingsyouareplanningtocookintherefrigeratoronaplateortray,coveredwithakitchentowel,untilit’stimetosteamthem.

9.MAKETHESCALLIONTOPPING:Heatthe1tablespoonoilinasmallskilletovermediumheatandaddthescallions.Stiruntilthescallionsarejustbeginningtobrown,about1minute.Immediatelyremovefromtheheat,scoopintoabowl,andsetaside.

10.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add1inchofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Line thebasketwith lettuce leaves.Arrangeasmanydumplingsinthebasketasyoucan,spacingthemabout½inchapart.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor6to8minutes.

11.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Arrangeafewlettuceleavesonaplate.Useaspoonorasmall spatula to move the dumplings to the prepared plate. Sprinkle friedscallionsovereach, thendrizzlethemwithalittleSweet,Sour,andSpicyFishSauce.Serveimmediatelywhileyoucookanyremainingdumplings.

SWEET,SOUR,ANDSPICYFISHSAUCE

MAKESABOUT½CUP

1garlicclove,choppedcoarse2 small hot red chiles, such as Hanoi Red, cored, seeded, and choppedcoarse2tablespoonssugar1smallhotredchile,suchasHanoiRed,stemmedandslicedintothinrings2tablespoonsricevinegarorcoconutvinegar1tablespoonfishsauce,preferablyfromVietnam½imeorlemon

Equipment

Mortarandpestle

Poundthegarlicandthechoppedchilesinthemortarwiththepestleuntilwellmashed,thenscoopitintoasmallbowl.Addthesugar,chilerings,vinegar,and2tablespoonswaterandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Stirinthefishsauce.Keepinatightlysealedcontainerforupto1monthintherefrigerator.Squeezethelimejuiceintothesaucejustbeforeserving.

RiceandTapiocaDumplingsToppedwithShrimpandBeanPasteBánhBèo(Vietnam)

SERVES4(MAKES20DUMPLINGS)

It takes very little batter tomake 20 of these savory and absolutely deliciousdumplings, which resemble small open-faced sandwiches or canapés. Shrimp,shallots,andmungbeanpastetopthesesoft,slightlygelatinousdumplingswithasuperbcombinationofflavorsandtextures.

FortheToppings

½poundfreshshrimp,peeledanddeveined¼cupgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1/3cupfinelychoppedshallot1/3cupdriedpeeledmungbeans¼teaspoonsalt1recipeSweet,Sour,andSpicyFishSauce(precedingrecipe)1scallion,slicedintothinrings1 to2smallgreenchiles,suchasagreenHanoiRed,stemmed,seeded ifdesired,andslicedintothinrings

FortheDumplings

2/3cupwhitericeflour,preferablyfromVietnamorThailand1/3cuptapiocaflour(tapiocastarch)

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpotFivetoten2-inch-widedippingbowls(seeGlossaryofEquipment)

1.MAKE THE SHRIMP TOPPING:Add½inchofwatertoasmallpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Add the shrimp, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 3 to 4minutes. Drain and place the shrimp under cool running water for a coupleminutes.Coarselychoptheshrimp,placeinafoodprocessor,andprocessintoaveryfinemeal,about4minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.

2.Heatamediumskilletoverlowheat.Addtheshrimpmealandcook,tossingandstirringcontinuously,untiltheshrimpisdryandfluffybutnotbrown,4to6minutes,dependingonthemoistureoftheshrimp.Becausetheshrimpisbeingcookedwithoutanyaddedfat,someoftheshrimpwillsticktothepan,butbyconstantlytossingandscrapingthebitsoffthebottomwithawoodenspoon,youshouldbeabletoavoidanyscorching.Scoopintoabowlandsetaside.(Youcanalso make the shrimp topping in advance and keep it tightly covered in therefrigeratorforupto3days.)

3.MAKETHE SHALLOTOIL AND THEMUNGBEAN TOPPING:Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanovermediumheat.Addshallot and stir frequentlyuntil soft, about4minutes.Remove fromtheheat,scoopallofitintoabowl,andsetaside.

4.Placethemungbeansinasmallsaucepanandpourinenoughwatertocoverby1inch.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Coverandcookuntilthebeansareverysoft,20to30minutes.

5.Drainthemungbeansoverabowlandreservethecookingliquid.Processthebeansintoasmoothpasteinafoodprocessor,about3minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Ifthepasteistoodrytoprocesssmoothly,workinsomeofthereservedcookingliquid,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveanextremelysmoothpaste.

6.Scrapedown the sidesof theprocessorbowlandmoveall thepasteontoakitchen towel.Bring together theendsof theclothand twist tosqueezeoutasmuchoftheliquidasyoucan.Theamountofliquidyouaresqueezingoutwon’tbemuchandmaysimplybeabsorbedbythecloth.Scrapethepasteintoasmallbowlandmixinthesalt.

7.Straintheshallotoilthroughasieveintoasmallbowlandplacetheshallotinanother small bowl.Mix 2 tablespoons of the shallot oil into the mung beanpaste. The paste should be thick, creamy, and spreadable. If it’s crumbly andstiff,mixinalittlemoreoil.Setasidetheshallot,theshallotoil,andthemungbeanmixture. (Youcanmake these toppings inadvanceandkeep themtightlycoveredintherefrigeratorforupto12hours.)

8.MAKETHEBATTER:Combinethericeflourandtapiocaflourinalargeheatproofbowl.Heat1½cupswaterinasmallsaucepanovermediumheatuntilitishottothetouch but not close to simmering.Add the hotwater to the flourmixture andwhiskuntiltherearenoclumpsinthebatter.Thisisaverythinbatterthatwillcookuptoatexturesimilartoasmooth,densejelly.

9.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to a boil over highheat.Arrange asmany small dippingbowlsasyoucan in thebasket.Rewhisk thebatterand immediatelyspoon1½tablespoons into each bowl. Carefully place the basket in the pot, cover, andcookfor10minutes.

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafolded kitchen towel. Carefully remove the bowls and let the dumplings coolslightly.Slipthedumplingsoutofthebowlswithabutterknifeandplacethemtopsideupinasinglelayeronaplate.Onceunmolded,theywillspreadoutandbecome a bit wider. Rewhisk the batter just before cooking the remainingbatches.

11.Onceall thedumplingshavebeencookedandplated, topeachonewith asmalldollopofthemungbeanpaste,andspreaditoutabitwiththebackofaspoon.Nowtopeachoneneatlywith½teaspoonoftheshallotandateaspoonof

theshrimpmeal.SpoontheshallotoilandtheSweet,Sour,andSpicyFishSauceovereachdumpling, thensprinklewithscallionandchile rings.Serveat roomtemperature.

PorkTamaleswithGreenOlivesandJalapeñoTamalesdePuerco(Mexico)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES12DUMPLINGS)

These extravagant pork tamales from southern Mexico offer a multitude ofdistinct flavors in a small package.As they cook, the tamales soak in flavorsbothfromthefillingandfromtheleavesusedtowrapthem.Hojasantaleaves,or Mexican pepper leaves, cling to their bodies, adding an herbal, aniselikeflavorthatisexceptionalwithpork.HojasantaleavescanbefoundatMexicanmarkets,butiftheyarenotavailable,youcanusechardleavesasasubstitute.Ifyoudo,mix2to3tablespoonsoffinelychoppedfreshtarragonintothebattertogivethetamalesananiseflavorcomparabletothatofhojasanta.

These dumplings arewrapped using theEnvelopeFold, but you can alsousetheDiamondintheSquareFoldifyourbananaleavesarebrittleortorn.

FortheSauce

4plumtomatoes2to3largejalapeñochiles1smallwhiteonion,choppedcoarse2garliccloves,crushed½teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsnonhydrogenatedlardoraneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed

FortheFilling

1cupbite-sizedpiecesofcookedpork(ifyouaremakingfreshporkbrothforthetamalebatter,thiswillprovideyouwithmorethanenoughmeat)

1/3cupraisins12largegreenolives,pitted

FortheBatter

1recipeTamaleBatter fromFreshMasaor fromMasaHarinamadewithporkbroth

ForAssembly

12hojasantaleavesorgreenchardleaves,stemmedFifteen 10 × 12-inch prepared banana leaf rectangles (see Glossary ofEquipment)Twelve15-inchlengthskitchenstringfortyingthetamales

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHESAUCEANDTHEFILLING:Preheattheovento400°F.

2.Placethetomatoesandthejalapeñosonabakingsheetandroastuntilsoftandcharredinspots,about20minutes.Oncetheyarecoolenoughtohandle,pickorruboff thepatchesofcharredskinasbestyoucan.Trimthe tomatoesand thepeppers of their tougher stem ends. For a less spicy sauce, core and seed thejalapeños.

3. Pulse tomatoes, jalapeños, onion, and garlic in a food processor until themixtureislightandpulpy.Addthesaltandpulseonceortwicetocombine.Youwillhaveabout2cupsofsauce.

4.Heatthelardinasmallpotoverhighheat.Carefullyandquicklypourinthetomatomixture.Reducetheheattomediumandsimmeruntilthesaucethickensanddarkensincolor,6 to8minutes.(Youcanalsomakethesauceinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

5.Pourhalfofthecookedtomatosauceintoasmallbowlandsetasidetocool.Mixtheporkandtheraisinsintotheremainingsaucesimmeringinthepotandcookfor3minuteslonger.Removefromtheheat,scoopintoanotherbowl,andsetasidetocool.

6.ASSEMBLETHETAMALES:Beforeassemblingthetamales,reviewtheEnvelopeFoldortheDiamondintheSquareFold.

7.Linea traywith akitchen towel.Have ready thebatter, tomato sauce,porkandraisinmixture,olives,hojasantaleaves,banana-leafrectangles,andties.

8.Loosenupthebatterbywhiskingitfor2to3minutes.Theconsistencyshouldbesomethingsimilar toagrainyanddensemousse. If thebatter is toostiff towhisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer andfluffier.

9.Pickoutthebest12banana-leafrectangles.Layflat1rectangle,smoothsideup.Centerasinglehojasantaleaf,smoothsidedown,ontopofthebananaleaf.Place 1 heaping tablespoon of batter in the center of the hoja santa leaf andspread it out into a 4-inch square. Place a forkful of the pork, 1 olive, and aspoonful of sauce on top of the batter. Top everything with another heapingtablespoonofbatter.Foldoverone side.Foldover theopposite side.Fold theends of the leaf over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie thepackageinacrisscrosspatterntopreventtheleaffromunfoldingandplacethetamaleonthelinedtray.Repeatuntilyouhave12tamales.

10.Setasidethenumberoftamalesthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

11.STEAMTHETAMALES:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Meanwhile,arrangethepackagesupright,leaningorwedgedlooselyagainsteachotherinthebasket.Ballupandstickinanybanana-leafscrapsorparchmentpapertokeepthetamalesproppedupifneeded.Blanketthemwiththeremainingbananaleaves.Placethebasketinthepot,cover, reduce theheat tomedium,andsteamfor1½hours.Check thewater level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (Ifsteamingfrozentamales,placethemdirectlyinthebasketandcooktheminthesteamerpotfor2hours.Donotallowthetamalestothawbeforecooking.)

12.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Letthetamalesdepuercocoolslightly,cutoffthestrings,andserve.It’sbestnottoopenthetamalestoosoonandtopeelbacktheleavesjustbeforeeatingsothattheystaymoistandwarm.

TheArmoftheQueenTamaleBrazodelaReina(Mexico)

SERVES4(MAKES1DUMPLING)

The inspiration behind this dumpling’s curious name becomes apparent whenyoucutintothistamaletorevealwhatresemblesthecrosssectionoffleshandbone.Masamixedwithchaya(treespinach)andthickenedwithgroundpumpkinseedssurroundsarowofhard-boiledeggs.It’sdifficulttofindchayaoutsideofMexico,butchardmakesafinesubstitute.Becauseofitssize,it’sbesttosteamthistamaleinaroastingpanfittedwitharack.Youcanalsouseastandard-sizesteamer if you divide the ingredients in half and create two medium-sizedtamales.

ThisdumplingiswrappedusingtheCandy-WrapperShapeUsingaLeaf.

FortheSauce

5plumtomatoes2serranochilesor1habanerochile1smallwhiteonion,choppedcoarse1 teaspoon finely chopped epazote leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried Mexicanoregano½teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsnonhydrogenatedlardoraneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed

FortheBatter

1cuptoastedorrawhulledunsaltedpumpkinseeds1 recipeTamaleBatter fromFreshMasaor fromMasaHarinamadewith

chickenbroth6largegreenchardleavesor½smallbunchspinach,stemmed,hand-wilted(seeTips),andchoppedfine¼teaspoonsalt

FortheFilling

4largehard-boiledeggs,peeled

ForAssembly

One 12 × 20-inch prepared banana-leaf rectangle (see Glossary ofEquipment),plusacoupleoflargescrapsFive16-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthebrazodelareina

Equipment

Cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder1or2racksatleast1inchhighandsmallenoughtofitintotheroastingpanbutlargeenoughtosupportthelengthofthetamale16-inchroastingpanwithcover

1.MAKETHESAUCE:Preheattheovento400°F.

2.Placethetomatoesandthechilesonasmallbakingsheetandroastuntiltheyare soft andcharred in spots, about20minutes.Once theyarecool enough tohandle, pick or rub off the patches of charred skin as best you can. Trim thetomatoesandthepeppersoftheirfirmerstemends.Forlessheat,coreandseedthechiles.

3.Pulsethetomatoes,chiles,andonioninafoodprocessoruntilthemixtureislightandpulpy.Addtheepazoteandthe½teaspoonsaltandpulseonceortwice

tocombine.

4.Meltthelardinasmallsaucepanoverhighheat.Carefullyandquicklypourin the tomatomixture.Reduce theheat tomediumandsimmeruntil the saucethickensanddarkensslightlyincolor,6to8minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.(Youcanalsomakethesauceinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

5. MAKE THE BATTER: If using toasted pumpkin seeds, finely grind them in the spicegrinder. Ifusingrawpumpkinseeds, toast themina largeskilletovermediumheat,stirringconstantly,untiltheyjustbegintobrown,2to3minutes.Turnthemimmediatelyintoabowlandallowthemtocoolbeforegrinding.

6. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for about 2 minutes. The properconsistency should be something similar to a grainy and densemousse. If thebatteristoostifftowhiskeasily,mixinsomecoldwater,alittleatatime,untilitissofterandfluffier.Addthechard,¼teaspoonsalt,and¾cupof thegroundpumpkinseedsandfoldgentlyuntiljustcombined.

7. ASSEMBLE THE TAMALE:Before assembling the brazo de la reina, review the Candy-WrapperShapeUsingaLeaf.

8.Havereadythesauce,thebatter,theeggs,thebanana-leafrectangle,andtheties.

9.Layflatthebanana-leafrectangle,smoothsideup.Arrangehalfofthebatterononeofthelongeredgesoftheleaf,leavinga1-inchborderinthefrontanda2-inchborderoneachside.Arrangetheeggslengthwiseinastraightlineontopofthebatter,makingsuretheyarespacedapartevenly.Gentlypushdownontheeggsuntil thebatter comeshalfwayup their sides.Spoon the remainingbatterovertheeggs.Roll theegg-stuffedbatterupintheleaf,doingyourbestnot totearit.Tightlytiethetwoopenends,thentie3strings,spacedapart,aroundthebodyof the tamale to secure the seam.Using scissors, trimandneatenup theendsoftheleaf.

10.STEAM THE TAMALE:Placeoneorbothracksintheroastingpanandpourinenoughwatertoreachbelowtherungs.Placeover2burnersandbringtoaboil.Placethetamaleontherackandblanketwiththebanana-leafscraps.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor2½hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

11. Remove the pot from the heat.Using pot holders, grip the tamale at bothends,carefullyliftitoutofthepan,placeitonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowittocoolslightly.Meanwhile,reheatthesauce.Movethestill-wrappedtamaletoalargeplate,seamsideup.Cutoff thestringsandpeelbacktheleaf.Pourthesauceover the tamale,sprinklewith theremaininggroundpumpkinseeds,andserve. It’s best not to open this tamale too soon and to peel back the leaf justbefore serving so that it stays moist and warm. Brazo de la reina can berefrigeratedforup to3days.Reheat inasteamerpotoruse theSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithChickenandPeanutsJuanesdeArroz(Peru)

SERVES4(MAKES4DUMPLINGS)

Everything from pork to fish can be tucked into the center of these ricedumplings,butthemostpopularversionsarestuffedwithabigpieceofchickenand slicesofhard-boiledegg.Olives and tomatoes adda lotof flavor,but arenever overpowering.Long-grain ricewouldbe too absorbent, sousemedium-grainricetokeepthisdishmoistandluscious.Atraditionaljuanesiswrappedinbijao leaves, but they are difficult to find. Banana leaves are an acceptablesubstitute,whichsomeevenpreferbecauseoftheparticularflavorsthebananaleafprovides.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheLotus-LeafFold.

FortheFilling

2 tablespoons nonhydrogenated lard, olive oil, or a neutral oil such asgrapeseed1smallyellowonion,choppedfine2tomatoes,peeled,seeded(seeGlossaryofIngredients),andchoppedfine1redajichile, freshor jarred,choppedfine,or¼teaspoonajipowderorhotpaprika3garliccloves,choppedfine1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcumin3tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshoreganoleavesor1tablespoondried2tablespoonscoarselychoppedfreshculantro(recao)orcilantroleaves1tablespoonsalt1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

2wholechickenlegs,cutatthejointandtrimmedofexcessfat4largeblackolives,suchasBotijaorKalamata,pittedandcutinhalf¼cupunsaltedroastedpeanuts,paperyskinsremoved2largehard-boiledeggs,peeledandcutinhalf

FortheRice

1¼cupsmedium-grainwhiterice,lightlyrinsed2largeeggs,beaten

ForAssembly

Ten 12 × 15-inch prepared banana-leaf rectangles (see Glossary ofEquipment)Four35-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthejuanes

1.MAKE THE FILLING AND THE RICE:Heat the lard in amediumpot over high heat.Add theonion and stir frequently until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Stir in thetomatoes,ajichiles,garlic,turmeric,andcuminandcookfor2minuteslonger.Pourin2cupswaterandscrapeupanystickybitswithawoodenspoon.Stirintheoregano,culantro,salt,andpepper,thenarrangethechickenpieces,skinsidedown,inthepotinonelayer.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor15minutes.Turnthechickenover,cover,andcookfor15minuteslonger.

2.Usingaslottedspoonortongs,movethechickentoabowl.Stirthericeintothe simmering sauce, cover, reduce the heat to very low, and cook for 20minutes.

3.Oncethechickeniscoolenoughtohandle,removetheskin.Pullthemeatoffthebones,tearitintobite-sizedpieces,placeitbackinthebowl,andsetaside.Discardthebones.

4. Once the rice has finished cooking, remove the pot from the heat, keep

covered,andletitrestfor10minuteslonger.Thericewillbejustaboutcookedthrough. Scoop the rice into a shallow bowl and allow it to cool to roomtemperature.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthejuanes,reviewtheLotus-LeafFold,onlyinsteadoflotusleaves,youwillbeusingbananaleaves.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the rice, chicken, olives,peanuts,hard-boiledeggs,banana-leafrectangles,andties.

7.Addthebeateneggstothecooledriceandmixwell.Dividethechickeninto4equalpiles.Dothesamewiththepeanuts.

8. Pick out the best 8 leaf rectangles. Lay flat 2 rectangles, smooth side up.Center about a third of the rice on one of the rectangles.Moisten your handswithwaterandpatthericeintoa5-inchroundpatty.Arrange1pileofchickenover the rice, thenadd2olivehalves,1pileof thepeanuts,and1hard-boiledegghalf.Topeverythingwithanother2/3 cupof rice.Gentlypat andpack thericearoundthefilling,shapingitintoasneatapileasyoucan.

9.Foldoneofthelongersidesoftherectanglesnuglyoverthepileofriceandfilling.Foldtheoppositesideoverjustassnuggly.Foldovertheendsasfirmlyasyoucan,forminganeatpackage.Centerthispackage,seamsidedown,onthesecondrectangle.Usingthesamefoldingpattern,wrapthepackageastightlyasyou can. Tie this bundle in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaves fromunfolding.Repeatuntilyouhave4bundles.

10.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Placeanupside-downplateinalargepot,fillitwith2inchesofwater, and bring to a boil over high heat. The plate is there to protect thedumplingsfromdirectheatastheycook.Arrangethebundlesinonelayerinsidethepot. It is fine if theyarewedgedagainst eachother.Thewater should justreachthetopsofthebundles.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmerfor1hour.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

11.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullymovethejuanesdearrozwithtongstoafoldedkitchentoweltodrain.Oncetheexcesswaterhasbeendrained,placethemon a large serving plate.Cut off the strings (unless you are freezing thedumplings),unwrap,andserve.It’sbestnottoopenthepackagestoosoonandto peel back the leaves just before eating so that they stay moist and warm.Juanes can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6months.ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).Ifreheatingfrozenjuanes,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

July

BANANACUPCAKES

ApamPisang(Malaysia)

PLANTAINDUMPLINGSINCHICKENBROTH

SopadeBolitasdePlátanoVerde(PuertoRico)

“NAPKIN”BREADDUMPLINGWITHCHERRIES

KirschenServiettenknödel(Austria)

FRESHCORNANDCOCONUT“TAMALES”Pamonhas(Brazil)

FRESHCORNANDBASIL“TAMALES”Humitas(Chile)

CABINETPUDDING,ACAKEANDALMONDCOOKIEPUDDING

(England)

SWEETANDDARKPEPPERPOTSTEWANDDUMPLINGS

(Guyana)

BOTTLENECKEDPORKANDSHRIMPDUMPLINGS

ShaoMai(China)

RICEDUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHPEANUTANDCOCONUT

NuoMiCi(China)

LIGHTLYSOUREDRICECAKES

SadaIdli(India)

BananaCupcakesApamPisang(Malaysia)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

Thesesteamedbananacakesareasgoodas,ifnotbetterthan,anybakedbananabreadwe’veeverhad.Theyaremoistandsoftandhavejusttherightamountofsweetness. Malaysia has a luscious pool of bananas to choose from, but thecommonyellowbananawillworkperfectly,aslongasitisoverripe.Ifyoulikenuts,youcanmix¼cupofcrushedpecansorwalnutsintothebatter.

FortheDumplings

1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour½teaspoonbakingpowderPinchofsalt3medium(veryripe)bananas½teaspoonbakingsoda2largeeggs2ounceshardpalmsugaror¼cupsoftpalmsugarorotherunrefinedsugar(seeGlossaryofIngredients)1teaspoongrapeseedorotherneutraloil½cupfreshlygratedcoconut(seeGlossaryofIngredients),orfrozengratedcoconut,thawed(optional)

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot8individualbakingcups8paperbakingcups

1.MAKE THE BATTER:Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,andsaltthroughafinesieveintoamediumbowl.

2.Placethebananasinasmallbowlandmashwithaforkuntilmostlysmoothandgooey(orlumpyifyoulikeamoretexturedcake).Youwillhavejustover1cupofmashedbanana.Mixinthebakingsodaandsetaside.

3.Whisktheeggsinalargebowluntillightandfoamy.Ifusinghardpalmsugar,chopitintobitsandcrushitasfinelyasyoucan.Addthepalmsugarandtheoilandcontinuewhiskinguntilthesugarhasmostlydissolved.

4.Addthemashedbananatotheeggmixtureandfoldtogether.Addhalfoftheflourmixture,foldtogether,thenfoldintherest.Donotovermix.

5.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to aboiloverhighheat.Line the individualbakingcupswiththepaperbakingcups,thenarrangeasmanylinedcupsinthebasketasyoucan.Spooninenoughbattertofilleachcuptojustbelowtherim.Sprinkleabouta tablespoonofcoconuton thesurfaceofeach filledcup, ifdesired.Place thebasketinthepot,cover,andsteamfor20minutes.

6. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on afoldedkitchentowel,andallowtheapampisang tocoolslightly.Lift themoutoftheindividualbakingcupsandarrangethemonaplate.Cookanyremainingbatter.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

PlantainDumplingsinChickenBrothSopadeBolitasdePlátanoVerde(PuertoRico)SERVES5TO6(MAKESABOUT30DUMPLINGS)

ThisPuertoRicanchicken-and-dumplingsoupisaclassicthatdeliverssunshinyflavorsquitedistinctfromtheother traditionalchickenanddumplingdishesinthis book, such as the Sopa de Bolitas deMasa (April), Chicken Fricot withDumplings (September), and Chicken and Dumpling Soup (September). Thedumplings are made from unripe green plantains, and they are cooked in achickenbrothflavoredwithasofritoofonions,bellpeppers,culantro,*cilantro,andoregano.AgeneroussprinklingofParmesancheesecompletesthissoup.

FortheSoup

1recipe(2quarts)ChickenBrothwithPuertoRicanFlavors2cupschickenmeatfrommakingthebroth(optional)3tablespoonsoliveoil1recipeSofrito

FortheDumplings

3green(unripe)plantains,peeled(seeGlossaryofIngredients)andgratedintofinestrandsthroughthesmallerholesofyourboxgrater3garliccloves,choppedveryfine¼teaspoonsalt1/3cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting

ForServing

3to4tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmesancheese

1. MAKE THE SOUP: Pour the chicken broth into a medium pot, add the chicken ifdesired, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat tomedium for asteadysimmer.

2.Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanoverhighheat.Carefullyandquicklypourinthesofrito.Reducetheheattomediumandsimmer,stirringfrequentlyuntilthemixturethickensanddarkensincolor,4to5minutes.Scoopallthesofritointothesimmeringchickenbroth.Coverandcookfor10minutes.

3.MAKEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

4.Combinetheplantain,garlic,andsaltinamediumbowl.Workinsomeoftheflour,alittleatatime,until themixtureisfirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.

5.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdough,rollitintoaballabout1incharound,dustwith flour, andplace it on the prepared tray.Repeat the rolling stepswith theremainingdough.

6.Carefullydrop thedumplings,a fewata time, into thesimmeringsoupandstirgently.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,3to5minutes,andthencookfor3minuteslonger.SprinkleParmesanovereachbowlofsoupandserve.

“Napkin”BreadDumplingwithCherriesKirschenServiettenknödel(Austria)SERVES4(MAKES1DUMPLING)

This largebreaddumpling, like theServiettenkloss (November), is an inspireduseoffreshorleftoverbread.Mixingthebreadcubeswitheggs,spices,andfruitcreates a new, flavorful loaf, textured with all sorts of nooks and crannies.Choppedplumsaretraditional,butwefoundthatcherries,preferablyfreshones,will provide spectacular swirls of color while retaining their pulpy bursts ofsweetness.

ThisdumplingiswrappedusingthePuddingBagFold.

FortheDumpling

1cupmilk¾cupsemolinaflour4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks6cups½-inchcrustlesswhitebreadcubes(seeGlossaryofIngredients)1largeegg,plus1largeeggyolk¼cupsugar¼teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1/8teaspoonsaltGratedzestof1lemon½poundfreshsweetcherries,pittedandchoppedcoarse(about1cup)

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbuttertocoatthemuslin

1recipeCherryCompote(recipefollows)orCreamSauce

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslinorwhitecottonnapkin8-inchlengthofkitchenstringfortyingtheKirschenServiettenknödel

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Heatthemilkinasmallsaucepanovermediumheatjustuntilthemilkbeginstobubbleatthesidesofthepan.Donotallowthemilktocometoafull simmer. Immediately remove from the heat and pour into a large bowl.While the milk is hot, stir in the semolina flour and keep stirring until themixtureisasmooththickbatter.Coverandsetaside.

2.Melt half of thebutter in a large skillet overmediumheat.Addhalf of thebreadcubesandstiroccasionallyuntiltheyarelightlybrowned,3to4minutes.Scoop them into a bowl, carefully wipe the pan free of crumbs, brown theremaining bread cubes in the remaining butter, and scoop them into the bowl,andallowthemtocoolslightly.

3.Beattogethertheeggandtheeggyolk.Stirthesemolinabatteronceortwiceand mix in the egg, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and lemon zest. Add thecherries and the toasted bread cubes and work everything together with yourhandsuntilthebreadisthoroughlycoatedwiththebatter.Packthebreadmixtureintoaball.

4.ASSEMBLEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLING:BeforeassemblingtheKirschenServiettenknödel,reviewthePuddingBagFold.

5.Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

6.Soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,wringitout,andspreaditoutonaflatsurface.Rubonesideofthedampmuslinwithbutter,leavinganarrowborderon

allsides.Centerthecherry-breadballontopofthemuslin.Gatherupthecornersof themuslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag.As you collect themuslinandprepareitfortying,leaveitslightlybaggysothatthedumplingcanswellasitcooks.Becertain,however,togripthemuslinlowenoughtoleavenoopengaps.Tightlytiethegatheredmuslin.

7.Carefully lower thewrappeddumpling into thesimmeringwater,cover,andcookfor1hour.Check thewater levelhalfway throughcookingand replenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

8. Remove theKirschen Serviettenknödel with tongs and place it on a foldedkitchentoweltocoolslightly.Removethestrings,carefullyunwrapit,andplaceitonacuttingboard.Ifthereisnonaturallyflatside,steadythedumplingwithaforkandsliceoffjustenoughfromanysidetocreatea“foot,”makingitpossibleforit tositsteadilyonaplatewithoutrollingaround.ServewarmtoppedwithCherry Compote or Cream Sauce.Kirschen Serviettenknödel is also good thenextday,slicedandfriedinalittlebutterorusedasthebreadforFrenchtoast.

CHERRYCOMPOTE

MAKESABOUT1½CUPS

1cupdrywhitewineorunsweetenedwhitegrapejuice2tablespoonssugar1cupfreshsweetcherries,pitted1tablespoonfreshlemonjuice

Combinethewineandthesugarinasmallpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumandsimmer,uncovered,untiltheliquidhasreducedbyhalf,about10minutes.Removefromtheheat,thenstirinthecherriesandthelemon juice. Cover and steep for 10minutes, stirring occasionally. Scoop thecherriesandall the liquid intoaglassbowlorothercontainerandsetaside tocool.Oncethecompotehascooled,coverandkeeprefrigeratedfor6to8hoursbeforeserving.

FreshCornandCoconut“Tamales”Pamonhas(Brazil)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

These sweet dumplings feature the creamy essence and soft nibble of gratedcoconutandpulpedcorn.Youcan,ofcourse,makethemwithfrozencorn,store-boughtgratedcoconut,andcannedcoconutmilk,butifyouwanttotastethebestpamonhaspossible,onlyfreshingredientswilldo.Theseunusualdumplingscanbesosoftandcustardlikethatyoumayneedtoeatthemwithaspoon.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheTwo-HuskTamaleFold2(Long).

FortheDumplings

6largeearsofcornwithhusks½cupcoarseyellowcornmeal¾cupsugar1/8teaspoonsalt4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,melted1 cup fresh coconutmilk (seeGlossary of Ingredients) or 2/3 cup cannedcoconutmilkmixedwith1/3cupwater2cupsfreshlygratedcoconut(seeGlossaryofIngredients),orfrozengratedcoconut,thawed

ForServing

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeservingSugarforsprinkling

ForAssembly

Sixteen20-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthepamonhas

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEBATTER:Removethehusksfromthecornandseparatethemfromthesilk.Setasidethesilkandahandfulofthesmallerhusksforlateruse.Countout32ofthelargesthusks,rinsethem,patthemdry,andsetaside.

2. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make thekernelseasiertocollect.Youwillneed5cupsofkernels.

3.Processthekernelsinafoodprocessoruntilalmostsmooth,about3minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Pourthepureedcornintoalargebowlandmixinthecornmeal,sugar,salt,andmeltedbutter.Mixinjustenoughcoconutmilk,alittleatatime,tothinthebatteroutintoaconsistencythatresemblesthepureedcornbeforethedriedingredientswereadded.Mixinthegratedcoconut.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthepamonhas,reviewtheTwo-HuskTamaleFold 2 (Long). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generousportions of batter by overlapping fresh corn husks. Dried husks are typicallymuchlargerthanfreshhuskssothere’snoneedtooverlap,buttheywillslightlyaltertheflavorofthedumplings.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandhavereadythebatter,32husks,andties.

6. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, overlapping theirwider ends by about 2inches.Centerabout½cupofbatterontopoftheoverlappinghusks.Foldoveroneside.Foldovertheoppositeside.Tightlytietheopenends,butleavealittle

roomateachendforthedumplingtoexpandintowhileitcooks.Usingscissors,trimandneatenuptheendsofthepackageandplaceitonthetray.Repeatuntilyouhave16packages.

7.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto the pot, and stir in the reserved corn silk. Bring to a boil over high heat.Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning, or wedged loosely againsteachotherinthebasket.Ballupandstickinanyextrahusksorparchmentpaperto keep them propped up if needed. Blanket them with the smaller, reservedhusks.Placethebasketinthepot,reducetheheattomedium,cover,andsteamfor1½hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

8.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Letthepamonhascoolslightly,cutoffthestrings(unlessyou are freezing the dumplings), and serve topped with melted butter and asprinklingofsugar.It’sbestnottoopenthepackagestoosoonandtopeelbackthehusksjustbeforeeating,sothattheystaymoistandwarm.Pamonhascanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozen(unopened)forupto6months(seeTips).ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).Ifreheatingfrozenpamonhas,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

FreshCornandBasil“Tamales”Humitas(Chile)

SERVES8TO16(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

Theonlyobstacletomakingabatchofsavoryandsweethumitascanbefindingtheappropriatecorn.Thesedumplingsaremadewithaparticulartypeofwhite,starchycornnot easily found.The solution is touse the freshest cornyoucanfindandtomixinsomewhitecornmealtoboostthestarchcontent.Precookingthe dough before it’swrapped in the husks helps to create fluffier dumplings.Humitas,flavoredwithgenerousamountsofbasil,areoftenservedwithapebresauce—anuncookedsauceofherbs,chiles,lime,garlic,andsometimestomatoes—andasprinklingofsugar.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheTwo-HuskTamaleFold1(Wide).

FortheSauce

1/3cupfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves1/3cupfinelychoppedfreshcilantroleaves1smallyellowonion,choppedfine1garlicclove,choppedfine1smallhotredchile,preferablyaredajichile,choppedveryfine1jalapeñochile,choppedveryfine3tablespoonsoliveoil2teaspoonsredwinevinegar2tablespoonsfreshlimejuice¾teaspoonsalt

FortheDumplings

6largeearsofcornwithhusks¾cupfinelygroundwhitecornmeal1/3cupfinelychoppedfreshbasilleaves1to2jalapeñochiles,cored,seeded,andchoppedveryfine1teaspoonbakingpowder1tablespoonsugar1tablespoonsalt3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks1largeyellowonion,choppedfine

ForAssembly

Sixteen20-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthehumitas

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHESAUCE:Combineallthesauceingredientsinamediumbowl,cover,andsetasidewhileyoumakethehumitas.(Youcanmakethesauceinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto1week.)

2.MAKETHEDOUGH:Removethehusksfromthecornandseparatethemfromthesilk.Setasidethesilkandahandfulofthesmallerhusksforlateruse.Countout32ofthelargesthusks,rinsethem,patthemdry,andsetaside.

3. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make thekernelseasiertocollect.Youwillneed5cupsofkernels.

4.Processthekernelsinafoodprocessoruntilalmostsmooth,about3minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Pourthecornintoalargebowlandmixinthecornmeal,basil,jalapeño,bakingpowder,sugar,and1tablespoonsalt.

5.Melt thebutter ina largeskilletovermediumheat.Asthebuttermelts,addthelargeonionthat’sbeenfinelychoppedandstirfrequentlyuntilsoft,about4minutes. Add the pureed cornmixture and stir continuously until it begins tothicken, pulls away from the sides of the pan, andbecomesmore of a dough,about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a medium bowl, and setasidetocool.

6.ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS:Beforeassembling thehumitas,reviewtheTwo-HuskTamaleFold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generousportions of dough by overlapping fresh corn husks. Dried husks are typicallymuchlargerthanfreshhuskssothere’snoneedtooverlap,buttheywillslightlyaltertheflavorofthedumplings.

7.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandhavereadythe32husks,theties,andthecooleddough.

8. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with thewidest ends on opposite sides.Overlap the husks by about 1½ inches. Centerabout½cupofdoughontopoftheoverlappinghusks.Foldoveroneside.Foldovertheoppositeside.Foldtheendsoftheoverlappinghusksoverastightlyasyou can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern topreventthehusksfromunfoldingandplaceitonthetray.Repeatuntilyouhave16packages.

9.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto the pot, and stir in the reserved corn silk. Bring to a boil over high heat.Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning or loosely wedged againsteachotherinthebasket.Ballupandstickinanyextrahusksorparchmentpaperto keep them propped up if needed. Blanket them with the smaller, reservedhusks.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor1½hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Letthehumitascoolslightly,cutoffthestrings(unlessyouarefreezingthem),andservewiththesauceandasprinklingofsugar.It’sbestnottoopenthepackagestoosoonandtopeelbackthehusksjustbeforeeatingsothattheystaymoistandwarm.Humitascanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozen(unopened)forupto6months(seeTips).Reheattheminasteamerpotoruse theSteamerPlateSetup (Tips). If reheating frozenhumitas, allow them tothawbeforesteaming.

CabinetPudding,aCakeandAlmondCookiePudding

(England)

SERVES4(MAKES1DUMPLING)

This eye-catching steamed pudding is made from layers of sponge cake andalmond cookie crumbs. It can be made with cubes of cake, but thin, neatlylayeredslicescreateamorespectacularpudding,andthat’showit’sdonehere.Youcanleavethecrustonthecakeforamarbledappearanceorcutitoffforacleaner,tidylook.Thispuddingcanbemadewithdifferenttypesofspongecakeor pound cake, such as chocolate and lemon, or any combinationof leftovers.Ratafias, sometimescalledalmondmacaroons, are light, crisp almond cookiesthatareeasytomakeanddeliciousontheirown.Store-boughtamaretticookiesmakeagoodsubstitute.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDumpling

¼cupraisins2tablespoonsunsweeteneddriedsweetcherries,choppedcoarse1cupmilk4largeeggs,atroomtemperature¼cupsugar1teaspoonPuddingSpice(recipefollows)Pinchofsalt3cups¼-inchslicesspongecake6 Ratafia Cookies (recipe follows), broken into small pieces (about 11/3cups),or11/3cupscrushedamaretticookies

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin1recipeVanillaCustardSauceorCherryCompote

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthsofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1. SOAK THE FRUIT: Place the raisins and the cherries in a small bowl, pour inwarmwatertocoverby1inch,andsetasidefor30to60minutes.

2.MAKE THE CUSTARD:Heat themilk in a small saucepan overmediumheat just untilbubblesbegintoappearalongthesidesofpan.Donotallowthemilktocometoafullsimmer.Immediatelyremovefromtheheatandsetaside.

3.Whisk together the eggs, sugar, spice, and salt in amedium bowl until thesugarhasmostlydissolved.Continuewhiskingtheeggmixturewhilegraduallydrizzlinginthewarmmilk.Coverthebowltokeepthecustardwarmwhileyouassemblethepudding.

4. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSetup.

5.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.Havereadythecakeslices,cherries,raisins,custard,andcookiepieces.

6.Dividethecakeinto3equalpilesandthecookiepiecesinto2piles.

7.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandsetthepotaside.

8.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutterandcoatingitwithsugar.Draintheraisinsandthecherries,shakeoffanyexcesswater,andscatter themaround thebottomof thebasin.Layer1pileofcakeslicesontopofthefruit.Spread1pileofcookiepiecesontopofthecake,followedbyanotherlayerofcake,asecondlayerofcookiepieces,thenathirdandfinallayerofcake.Slowlydrizzlethecustardevenlyoverthetop.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthecustard-soakedlayers.Coverthe basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie theoppositecornersofthemuslinintohandlesoverthetopofthepudding.Placethepuddingbasinintherefrigeratorfor30minutes.

9.Bringthewaterinthepottoaboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,likeastandard white cotton napkin, into the water and arrange it to lie flat on thebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast1½hoursorupto2½hoursforapuddingthat’seven richer in flavor and texture.Check thewater level every30minutes andreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholdertograsptheclothhandle,carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallow the pudding to cool for 5minutes.Remove the string, cloth, and paper.Unmoldbyinvertingitontoaplate.SliceandservewithVanillaCustardSauceorCherryCompote.Thepuddingcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

PUDDINGSPICE

MAKESABOUT½CUP

2½tablespoonscorianderseeds1½tablespoonsallspiceberries1tablespoonwholeclovesOne3-inchcinnamonstick,brokeninto2or3pieces1½tablespoonsgroundginger1wholenutmeg,freshlygrated

Equipment

Cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder

Placethecoriander,allspice,cloves,andcinnamoninthespicegrinderandgrindintoafinepowder.Mixinthegingerandnutmeg.Measureoutwhatisneededforyourrecipeandkeeptherest ina tightlysealedglass jar intherefrigeratorforupto6months.

Ifsubstitutinggroundspices,combinethefollowingamounts.Measureoutwhatisneededfortherecipeandfollowthestorageinstructionsabove.

2tablespoonsgroundcoriander1½tablespoonsgroundallspice1tablespoongroundcloves1tablespoongroundcinnamon2tablespoonsfreshlygratednutmeg

RATAFIACOOKIES

MAKESABOUT12COOKIES

2largeeggwhites,atroomtemperature½cupsuperfinesugar(orgranulatedsugarpulsedinacleanspiceorcoffeegrinderfor1to2minutes)1teaspoonalmondextract1cupfreshlygroundblanchedalmonds

1.Preheattheovento325°F.

2.Whisktheeggwhitesinamediumbowluntilverylightandfoamy.Addhalfof the sugar and the almond extract and continue whisking until the mixtureformssoftpeaks.Gentlyfoldinthegroundalmondsandtherestofthesugar.

3.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Usingateaspoon,scoopupawell-roundedamountofcookiebatter.Useanotherspoonoryourfingertomovethebatteroff thespoonandonto thebakingsheet.Continueuntil thesheet is full,allowing2 inches between scoops so the cookies can spread out evenlywhilecooking.Useanotherbakingsheetorworkinbatchesifnecessary.

4.Bakeuntilthecookiesaregoldenbrown,25to30minutes.Placethetrayonarackandallowthecookies tocoolcompletelybeforebreakingthemintosmallpiecesforthecabinetpudding.

SweetandDarkPepperpotStewandDumplings

(Guyana)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES12DUMPLINGS)

If you like the winning combination of sweet, sticky barbecue with slices ofwhite bread, this dumpling dish is a chance to experience those flavors andtextures in a new way. This extremely rich stew is made with soft, breadydumplings and shows off three different types of meat. Cassareep syrup isessential to the flavor of this particular type of pepperpot, because it’s thisingredientthatimpartsthedeeplycaramelizedbarbecueflavor.Bothsweetandbitter,itismadeofalong-cookedreductionofcassavajuice,sugar,andspices.Cassareep looksandbehaves likemolasses,but ithas lessof thatmineral-richmedicinal flavor and more of a pure burnt sugar taste. It is found at manyCaribbeanmarkets.

FortheStew

½smallbunchfreshthyme1smallcinnamonstick1poundbeefstewmeat,cutintobite-sizedpieces1poundmeatyoxtailpieces½poundsaltbeeforcornedbeef2smallpig’sfeetor1poundpig’stail4wholecloves,finelycrushed,or½teaspoongroundclovesOne 3-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces with backbone and skinremoved½cupcassareep2 tablespoons lightmuscovado or other unrefined sugar (seeGlossary of

Ingredients)1Scotchbonnetorhabanerochile*Gratedzestof1lemon

FortheDumplings

1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting¼cupfinelygroundwhiteoryellowcornmeal1½teaspoonsbakingpowder2tablespoonssugar½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg¼teaspoonsalt

Equipment

Kitchenstringfortyingthethymeandcinnamon

1.MAKETHESTEW:Tiethethymeandthecinnamonsticktogetherandplacetheminamedium pot along with the beef stew meat, oxtail, salt beef, pig’s feet, andcloves.Pourin6cupswaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor1hour.

2.Stirinthechicken,cassareep,muscovadosugar,andchile.Coverandsimmerfor 1 hour longer. (You can also make the stew in advance and keep itrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.Ifthestewistoothicktostireasily,addalittlewatertothinitout.)

3.MAKE THE DUMPLINGS:Halfwaythroughthechicken’scookingtime,place1¼cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addthecornmeal,bakingpowder,sugar,nutmeg,andsaltandmixwell.Pourin¾cupwaterandstiruntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoone manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of theremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.Donot

overworkthedough.Returnthedoughtothebowl,cover,andletitrestfor20minutes.

4.Sprinkle a largeplatewitha little flour.Place thedoughona flouredworksurfaceanddivideitinto12equalpieces.Rolleachpieceintoaballandplacethemonthepreparedplate.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Once thestewhassimmeredfor2hours, remove thesaltbeefandthepig’sfeetwithaslottedspoonandplacetheminabowl.Removehalfofthe stewmeat and place it in another bowl. The stew’s sauce should reach atleasttwo-thirdsofthewayuptheremainingpiecesofmeat.Stirinalittlewateriftheleveloftheliquidistoolow,thenletthestewcomebackuptoasimmer.

6. Drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering stew and stir gently.Coverandsimmerfor15minutes.

7.Meanwhile, once themeat is cool enough to handle, tear the salt beef intobite-sizedpiecesandpulloff anybitsofmeat from thepig’s feet.Discard thebonesandkeepthemeatinthebowl.Oncethedumplingshavefinishedcooking,mix both the pulled meat and the stew meat back into the stew and warmthrough.Removefromtheheat,stirinthelemonzest,andserve.

BottleneckedPorkandShrimpDumplingsShaoMai(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT48DUMPLINGS)

Afamiliarsightatdimsumparlorsanddumplingstalls,shaomai are enticinglittledumplingsshapedlikesmall,crinklysacklikepursesleftopenjustenoughtorevealahintoffilling.Thefilling,madefromrawgroundporkandshrimp,ismixedsowellittakesonawhipped,almostcottonytexture.Becausethedoughneedstoberolledoutsothin,thesedumplingsareachallengeandarealsourceofpride.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBottleneckFold.

FortheDough

2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1teaspoonsalt1largeegg

FortheFilling

4dried shiitakeorblackmushrooms, soaked inhotwater tocover for30minutes½ pound lean boneless pork loin, chopped very fine, or coarsely groundpork½poundfreshshrimp,peeled,deveined,andchoppedveryfine5 to 6 fresh water chestnuts, peeled and chopped fine, or canned waterchestnuts,drainedandchoppedfine2tablespoonscornstarch

1teaspoonsugar1½teaspoonssalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper1tablespoonricewine2teaspoonssoysauce1teaspoontoastedsesameoil

ForCooking

Softlettuceleaves,suchasBoston,tolinethesteamerbasket

Equipment

3¼-inchroundcookiecutter8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place1¾cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addthe1teaspoonsaltandmixwell.

2.Whisk the eggwith½ cupwater in a small bowl and stir it into the flourmixture until all of the liquid has been absorbed.Work the dough with yourhands into one manageable ball. If it is wet and sticky, work in some of theremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor4to5minutes.Thedoughwillbesomewhatfirm.Returnittothebowl,coverwithadamptowel,andletitrestfor30minutes.

4.MAKETHEFILLING:Drainthemushroomsandsqueezeoutanyexcessliquid.Removeanddiscardthestemsandfinelychopthemushroomcaps.Placethemushroomsinamediumbowlalongwiththeremainingfillingingredients.Mixvigorouslywith a wooden spoon until the filling has a velvety texture, about 3minutes.Coverandrefrigerateforat least30minutes.(Youcanalsomakethefillingin

advanceandkeepitwrappedtightlyintherefrigeratorforupto12hours.)

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingtheshaomai,reviewtheBottleneckFold.

6.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthechilledfilling.

7.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaball,thenrollitoutuntilit’s1/16inchthick,eventhinnerwouldbeideal.(Fortipsonhowtorolldoughoutthinly,seeTips.)Takeyourtimeandsprinklewith flour if itgets sticky.Let the rolled-outdough relax foracoupleminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

8.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually10to12.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

9.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Placearoundedteaspoonoffillinginthecenterofeachround.Gatherupthesidesoftheround,creatingapoucharoundthefillingandleavinganopenneckinthecenterofthegathereddough.Pinchtogether the creases and pleats that formed naturally while the round wasgatheredup,withoutclosingtheneck.Thisgivesthedumplingalooseandfrillytop.Gentlysqueezethebodyofthedumplinguntilthefillingpushesupthroughthenecka little.Holding thedumplingby theneck, tap itsbaseonyourworksurfaceuntilitisflatenoughonthebottomtositupright.Placeonthepreparedtray and repeat with the remaining rounds and filling. Keep the dumplingscoveredwith akitchen towel asyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembled the firstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

10.Setasidethenumberofdumplingsthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

11.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwaterto thepot, andbring to aboil overhighheat.Line thebasketwith the lettuceleavesandarrangeasmanydumplingsinthebasketasyoucanfitwithouttheirtouching.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium-high,andsteamfor20minutes. (Ifsteamingfrozenshaomai,place themdirectly in thebasketandcooktheminthesteamerpotfor25minutes.Donotallowtheshaomaitothawbeforecooking.)

12.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Removetheshaomaiwithaspoonorasmallspatulaandplacethemonaservingplate.Serveimmediatelywhileyoucookanyremainingshaomai.

RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPeanutandCoconutNuoMiCi(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

Thesechewyricedumplingscombinetwodelights,peanutsandcoconut.Whenthese two aromatic ingredients mingle, the peanut’s flavor is enhanced. Thefilling tends to be crumbly,making it tricky to handlewhen stuffing it into adelicate dough. You can make this step more manageable by mixing somefreshlygroundpeanutbutterintothefilling.Thedumplingsarecoatedinmoreofthegratedcoconut,buttheywouldbejustastraditionalifyouchoosetocoatthem in finely crushed peanuts, sesame seeds, or a dusting of snowy potatostarch.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBowlFold.

FortheFilling

¼ cup freshly grated and dried coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) orunsweeteneddriedgratedcoconut2/3 cupunsalted roastedpeanuts, papery skins removedandnuts choppedcoarse1/3cupsugar3 tablespoons nonhydrogenated lard or vegetable shortening, at roomtemperature

FortheDough

2cupssweet(glutinous)riceflour,preferablyfromChinaorThailand,plus

someextrafordusting2tablespoonstapiocaflour(tapiocastarch)

ForCoating

¾ cup freshly grated and dried coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) orunsweeteneddriedgratedcoconut

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot24-inchsquareofmuslin

1.MAKETHEFILLING:Placeallthefillingingredientsinamediumbowlandmixwell.

2.MAKE THE DOUGH:Pour1cupwater intoa small saucepanandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Combinethericeflourandthetapiocaflourinalargeheatproofbowl.

3.Measureout¾cupoftheboilingwaterandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Immediatelypour the¾cupwater into the flourmixtureandmixuntil all theliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Letthedoughcoolslightly.

4. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any wayuncomfortable,letitcoolanotherminuteortwo,butkeepinmindthatyouneedtoworkwiththisdoughwhileitisstillvery,verywarm.Kneadthedoughinthebowl until it is smooth andmanageable. If the dough is crumbly or crackingaround the edges,work in some of the remaining hotwater, a little at a time,untilthedoughcomestogether.Coverthedoughwithacloth,keepingitwarmasyouassemblethedumplings.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthenuomici,reviewtheBowlFold.

6. Sprinkle a plate with a little rice flour and have ready the filling and thedough.

7.Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces.Roll each piece into a ball and keepthemcoveredwithakitchentowelasyouwork.Useyourthumbstoshapeoneball into a bowl, about 1½ inches deep.Thiswill be awide bowl that is bestsupportedinthepalmofyourhand.Place2tablespoonsoffillinginthecenterofthedoughbowl.Closebypushingandpinchingtheedgesofthedougharoundand over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pushing out any air.Dab alittlewateralongtheedges, ifneeded,forabetterseal.Reroll intoaball,dustwithriceflour,andplaceonthepreparedplate.Repeatwiththeremainingdoughballsandfilling.

8.STEAMANDCOATTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwater to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin underrunningwater, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining.Arrangethedumplingsabout½inchapartinthebasket.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor10minutes.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on afolded kitchen towel, and allow the dumplings to cool slightly. Meanwhile,spreadoutthe¾cupgratedcoconutonaplateandhavereadyasmallbowlofwater.

10.Diponeofyourhandsintothewater,pickuponedumpling,anddampenitsentiresurface.Placeitinthegratedcoconut,rollitaroundwithyourdryhandtocoatwell,andplaceonaplate.(Moisteningthedumplingallowsthecoconuttostickmoreevenly.)Repeatwith theremainingdumplings.Serveslightlywarmorat roomtemperature.Nuomici canbe refrigerated forup to3days.Allowthemtocomebacktoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

LightlySouredRiceCakesSadaIdli(India)

SERVES3TO4(MAKESABOUT16DUMPLINGS)

Sada idli are delicate, slightly tangy rice cakes that are exceptionally usefulbecausetheyabsorbsauces,gravies,soups,orsoupycondimentswithoutgettingsoggy.Thesepopulareverydaydumplingsaredistinctly flavorfulbecause theyaremade out of a fermented batter of ground rice andurad dal (a dried splitpea). Idlimolds—roundmetal plateswith perforated depressions—are usuallysoldinstacksor“trees”sothatasmanyidliaspossiblecanbesteamedatonce.YoucanbuyidlitreesatmostIndiansupermarkets.

FortheDumplings

¾ cup white basmati or other long-grain rice, soaked in plenty ofnonchlorinatedwater,suchasdistilledorspringwater,for6to8hours½cupnonchlorinatedwater,suchasdistilledorspringwater¼ cup peeled black gram (urad dal), soaked in plenty of nonchlorinatedwater,suchasdistilledorspringwater,for2to3hours¼teaspoonfinelycrushedfenugreekseeds(optional)¼teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoonsalt

ForCookingandServing

Grapeseedorotherneutraloiltocoattheidlimolds1recipeeachVegetableSambharandCoconutChutney(recipesfollow)

Equipment

PotlargeenoughtoholdtheidlitreewhencoveredIdlitreewith3or4layers

1.MAKE THE BATTER 12 TO 36 HOURS IN ADVANCE:Draintherice,scoopitintoafoodprocessor,andprocessuntilitresemblescoarse,wetsand,2to3minutes.Addnomorethan¼cupof thenonchlorinatedwaterandprocessuntil themixturebecomesa thickpaste,2to3minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Scoopintoamediumbowlandsetaside.Don’trinseoutthefoodprocessor.

2. Drain the black gram and turn it into the food processor along with thefenugreek, if desired. Pour in the remaining nonchlorinatedwater and processuntilthemixtureisfrothyandslightlygritty,about2minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Pouritintothericemixtureandmix.

3.Coverwith a cloth and let the batter ferment in awarm room for 12 to 36hours.Fermentationtakeslongeratcoolerroomtemperatures,soallow36hoursif necessary.When properly fermented, the idli batter will expand to take upnearlytwiceasmuchroominthebowlandwillsmellslightlysour.

4.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Add1inchofwatertothepotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Detachthelayersoftheidlitreeandcoateachmoldwithalittleoil.

5.Addthebakingsodaandthesalttothebatterandfoldgentlytocombine.

6.Filleachmoldwith2heapingtablespoonsofbatter.Assembletheidlitreeandcarefullyinsertitintothepot.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor20minutes.

7.Removethepotfromtheheat.Placetheidlitreeonafoldedkitchentowelandallow the idli to cool slightly.Using a butter knife or a small spatula, unmoldthemgentlyandkeepwarm.CooktheremainingbatterandservewithVegetable

SambharandCoconutChutney.

IDLISTUFFEDWITHONIONCHUTNEY

MaketheOnionChutney.Addasmallspoonfulofthechutneytoeachidlimoldbeforespooningintheidlibatterandcookasdirected.

VEGETABLESAMBHAR

MAKES6CUPS

¾cupsplitpigeonpeas(toovardalortoordal)1teaspoongroundturmeric1mediumyellowonion,cutinto½-inchsquares5okrapods,trimmedoftheirtopsandcutinto½-inchrounds(about1cup)3plumtomatoes,peeled,seeded(seeGlossaryofIngredients),andchoppedcoarse1smallcarrot,cutinto½-inchrounds2tablespoonsSambharPowder(recipefollows)orusestore-bought1teaspoonsalt2teaspoonstamarindpaste¼cupcoarselychoppedfreshcilantroleaves1 tablespoon ghee (seeGlossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such asgrapeseed1½teaspoonsblackorbrownmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds1to2smalldriedhotredchiles,suchaslalmirchorKashmiri,slicedintothinrings5to6freshcurryleaves

1. Place the split pigeon peas and turmeric in a medium pot, pour in 4 cupswater, andbring toaboiloverhighheat.Reduce theheat to lowand simmer,partiallycovered,untilthepeasarejustbreakingapart,about20minutes.

2. Add the onion, okra, tomatoes, carrot, sambhar powder, salt, and tamarindpasteandstir.Thereshouldbejustenoughliquidtocover thevegetables.Addmorewaterifneeded.Coverandsimmeroverlowheatuntilthevegetablesareverytender,20to25minutes.

3.Shortlybeforethestewhasfinishedcooking,heatthegheeovermediumheatandaddthemustardseeds,cumin,chiles,andcurryleaves.Stiruntilthemustard

seedsbegintocrackle,about2minutes,thenimmediatelyremovefromtheheat.

4. Once the stew has finished cooking, pour it into a large serving bowl orindividual soup bowls. Top with the fried spice mixture and stir just beforeserving.You can alsomake the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in atightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.

SAMBHARPOWDER

MAKESABOUT½CUP

¼cupcorianderseeds2tablespoonschanadal(atypeofdriedsplitchickpea)1½tablespoonspeeledblackgram(uraddal)2teaspoonscuminseeds1teaspoonfenugreekseeds1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1to2smalldriedhotredchiles,suchaslalmirchorKashmiri10freshcurryleavesOne1-inchcinnamonstickor½teaspoonground

Equipment

Cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder

1.Combineall theingredientsinamediumskilletovermediumheat.(Ifusinggroundcinnamon,donotadduntilafter theother ingredientsare toasted.)Stircontinuously until the spices are lightly browned, about 5minutes. Scoop themixtureintoasmallbowlandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.

2.Oncethespicemixturehascooled,grinditinthespicegrinderuntilyouhaveafinepowder.Measureoutwhatyouneedandkeeptheresttightlysealedinaglasscontainerforupto3months.

COCONUTCHUTNEY

MAKESABOUT2CUPS

1tablespoonpeeledblackgram(uraddal)1cupfreshlygratedcoconut(seeGlossaryofIngredients)orfrozengratedcoconut,thawed1teaspoonfreshlygratedginger½cupwarmwater2teaspoonsfreshlemonjuice1tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshcilantroleaves¼teaspoonsugar¼teaspoonsalt2 teaspoons ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such asgrapeseed¾teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds¼teaspooncuminseeds1smalldriedhotredchile,suchas lalmirchorKashmiri, sliced into thinrings2to3freshcurryleaves

Equipment

Cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder

1.Toasttheblackgraminasmallskilletovermediumheat,stirringorshakingthepanconstantly,until it justbegins tobrown,about3minutes. Immediatelyscoop the black gram into a small bowl and set aside to cool to roomtemperature.Once it has cooled, grind it in the spicegrinder until youhave acoarsepowderandsetaside.

2. Pulse the coconut and ginger in a food processor until the coconut is veryfinely chopped. Pour in the warm water and process until you have a moist,

grittypaste,about1minute.Addthelemonjuice,cilantro,sugar,andsalt,pulseonceortwicetocombine,thenscoopintoasmallservingbowl.

3.Heatthegheeovermediumheatandaddthemustardseeds,cumin,chile,andcurryleaves.Stiruntilthemustardseedsbegintocrackle,about2minutes,thenscoopall the spices and theoil on topof the coconutmixture.Stir everythingtogetherwhenyouarereadytoserve.

ONIONCHUTNEY

MAKES½CUP

2 tablespoons ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil such asgrapeseed1teaspoonpeeledblackgram(uraddal)1smalldriedhotredchile,suchaslalmirchorKashmiri,splitinhalf½teaspoongratedfreshginger1smallyellowonion,choppedfine2plumtomatoes,peeled,seeded(seeGlossaryofIngredients),andchoppedcoarse¼teaspoonbrownmustardseeds¼teaspooncuminseeds½teaspoontamarindpasteor¼pittedprune,mashedintoathickpastewith¼teaspoonlimejuice1teaspoonjaggeryorotherunrefinedsugar(seeGlossaryofIngredients)¼teaspoonsalt

1.Melthalfofthegheeinamediumskilletovermediumheat.Stirintheblackgram, chile, and ginger and cook until the gram begins to brown, about 2minutes.Add the onion and stir frequently until the onion is lightly browned,about 5minutes.Mix in the tomatoes and cook for 1minute longer. Removefrom theheat.Scoop intoa foodprocessorandpulseuntil themixture is lightandpulpy.

2.Melttherestofthegheeinacleanskilletovermediumheat.Addthemustardand cumin seeds and stir continuously for 1minute.Mix in the pureed onionmixture, the tamarind, jaggery, and salt and continue stirring until you have athick,moistpaste,about3minuteslonger.Removefromtheheat,scoopintoabowl,setaside,andallowittocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeusing.Youcanmakethechutneyinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto1week.

August

PEACHANDBERRYGRUNT

(UnitedStates)

CASSAVAPATTIESWITHGRATEDCOCONUT

Pichi-Pichi(Philippines)

REDPEASOUPWITHSPINNERS

(Caribbean)

LEAF-WRAPPEDRICEANDBANANABUNDLES

KhaoTomMat(Thailand)

WONTONSWITHREDCHILEOIL

HungYouChaoShou(China)

CORNTAMALESSTUFFEDWITHSTRINGYCHEESEANDPOBLANO

TamalesdeElote(Mexico)

LEAF-WRAPPEDBLACK-EYEDPEADUMPLINGS

Moyin-Moyin(Nigeria)

LEAF-WRAPPEDRICEBUNDLESSTUFFEDWITHPORKANDBEANS

BánhTet(Vietnam)

COCONUT-FILLEDRICEDUMPLINGS

Modak(India)

TAPIOCABALLSSTUFFEDWITHMINCEDPORKANDPEANUTS

SakooSaiMoo(Thailand)

PeachandBerryGrunt

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT12DUMPLINGS)

Blueberry Grunt is a classic dessert that often relies on a lot of sugar tocompensateforthenaturaltartnessoftheberries.Bycombiningtheberrieswithpeachesandjusta touchofsugar,however,youcanemphasize thedeepfruityflavors of both without going into sugar shock. You can use milk instead ofbuttermilkinthedough,butbuttermilkaddsatangthatgoeswellwithfruit.Youcanalwayssubstituteblackberriesorraspberriesfortheblueberries.

FortheDumplings

1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour2teaspoonssugar2teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspoonsalt2tablespoonscoldunsaltedbutter,cutintobits1/3cupbuttermilkormilk

FortheStew

4ripebutfirmpeaches,peeled,pitted,andcutinto½-inchslices1pint(about2cups)freshorfrozenblueberriesorblackberries1/3cuphoney,preferablyraw2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice¼cupsugar

¼teaspoongroundginger½teaspoongroundallspice

ForServing

1recipeSweetenedWhippedCream,CreamSauce,orvanillaicecream

Equipment

Large,widepotorskilletwithacover

1.MAKETHEBATTER:Combinetheflour,2teaspoonssugar,thebakingpowder,andsaltinalargebowl.Addthebutterandworkitintotheflourmixturewithapastrycutter or 2 butter knives until it looks like a coarse, damp meal. Add thebuttermilkandstiruntilyouhaveathick,slightlylumpybatter.Donotovermix.

2. MAKE THE STEW AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Place all the stew ingredients, along with ¼ cupwater,inthelargepot.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor2minutes.Stirandseeiftheliquidislevelwiththefruit.Addsomemorewaterifneeded.

3.Scoopupaheapingtablespoonofbatter.Useanotherspoonoryourfingertomovethebattergentlyoffthespoonandontopofthesimmeringfruit.Dropinspoonfuls of the remaining batter, leaving as much space as you can aroundeach.Coverandsimmerfor10minutes.Uncoverandcookfor2minuteslonger.ServethesedumplingswithplentyofthefruitandSweetenedWhippedCream,CreamSauce,orvanillaicecream.

CassavaPattieswithGratedCoconutPichi-Pichi(Philippines)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES12DUMPLINGS)

Pichi-pichi,madefromgratedcassava,sugar,andpandanwater,aresomethinglike large, soft gumdrops with a clean, floral flavor. Pichi-pichi are typicallyenjoyedinoneoftwoways:rightoutofthesteamer,whilestillwarmandsoft,oratroomtemperature,whenthey’refirmontheoutsidebutstillquitesoftontheinside.Nomattertheirtemperature,they’recommonlytoppedorcoatedwithagenerousamountoffreshlygratedcoconut.

FortheDumplings

10freshorfrozenpandanleaves,eachfoldedinhalfandtiedintoaknotforeasierhandling,or½teaspoonpandanextract1cupfinelygratedcassava(seeGlossaryofIngredients)1cupsugar

FortheCoating

4cupsfreshlygratedcoconut(seeGlossaryofIngredients)orfrozengratedcoconut,thawed

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

Twelve2-inchdippingbowls(seeGlossaryofEquipment)

1. MAKE THE BATTER: Place the knotted pandan leaves and 1¼ cupswater in a smallsaucepanandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor15minutes.Measureout1cupof thepandanwaterandallowit tocool to roomtemperature. Ifusingpandanextract, stir it into1cupcoolwaterandsetaside.

2.Movethegratedcassavaontoakitchentowel.Bringtogethertheendsoftheclothandtwisttosqueezeoutasmuchliquidasyoucan.Therewon’tbemuchliquid,anditmaysimplybeabsorbedbythecloth.Placethecassavainalargebowlandbreakitupalittle.Addthesugarandpandanwaterandmixwell.

3.STEAMANDCOATTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwater to thepot, andbring to aboil overhighheat.Arrangeasmanydippingbowlsinthebasketasyoucan.Spoonenoughbatterintoeachbowltofillthemhalfway.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,andsteamfor15minutes.

4. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on afolded kitchen towel, and allow the pichi-pichi to cool slightly. Meanwhile,spread the coconut out on a large plate. Working while they are still warm,unmoldthepichi-pichiwithabutterknifeorasmallspatulaandplacethemonthe plate of grated coconut. Turn and press all sides into the coconut, thenarrangethemonaservingplate.Repeatwithanyremainingbatter.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.Pichi-pichicanberefrigeratedforupto3days.Allowthemtocomebacktoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

RedPeaSoupwithSpinners

(Caribbean)

SERVES6(MAKES6DUMPLINGS)

This Caribbean soup is frequently made with lots of little dumplings, butversionspreparedwithpalm-sizeddumplingsaremorefuntoeat.Thelongslowcookingofthesoupdissolvesthebeansalmostcompletelyandmakesthesoupthickandvelvety.CookingthesoupwithawholeScotchbonnetpepperwillgivea slight sense of heat, but if youwant a truly fiery soup, chop up the Scotchbonnetbeforeaddingit.

FortheSoup

1largesmokedhamhock1¼cupsdriedredkidneybeans,soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hours,or2½cupscanned,drainedandrinsed¾poundbonelesssmokedbrine-cured(orwet-cured)ham,cutinto6pieces1smallyellowonion,choppedfine1mediumbakingpotato,suchasrusset,peeledandcutinto½-inchcubes1smalltropicalyamorsweetpotato,peeledandcutinto½-inchcubes1mediumcarrot,cutinto½-inchrounds3freshthymesprigs1Scotchbonnetorhabanerochile*Saltandfreshlygroundpeppertotaste

FortheDumplings

1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting¼teaspoonsalt

1.MAKE THE SOUP:Fillasmallsaucepanhalfwaywithwaterandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Addthehamhock,cover,andcookfor5minutes,thendrain.

2.Placethehamhockinalargepotandpourin10cupswater.Drainthekidneybeans and stir them, alongwith thehampieces, into thepot. (If using cannedbeans, add them laterwhen adding the vegetables.) Bring to a boil over highheat, cover, reduce the heat tomedium-low, and cook until the beans are justtender,stirringoccasionally,1½to2hours.

3.Add theonion,potato,yam,carrot, thyme,andchile.Coverandcook for1hour longer, stirring occasionally. The vegetables will be very tender and thebeanswillbegin tobreakapart.Reduce theheat tovery,very low tokeep thesouphotuntil it’s time to add thedumplings. (Youcan alsomake the soup inadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

4.MAKETHEDOUGH:Whilethesoupissimmering,place1cupoftheflourinamediumbowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addthesaltandmixwell.Pourin2/3cupwaterandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyour hands into onemanageable ball. If the dough iswet and sticky,work insomeof the remaining flour, a little at a time,until itno longer sticks toyourfingers.

5.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor3to4minutes.Thedoughwillbesoftandstretchy.Returnittothebowl,cover,andletrestfor30minutes.

6.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelanddustwithalittleflour.

7.Kneadthedoughonceortwiceonaflouredsurfaceanddivideitinto6equalpieces.Rolleachpieceintoaball,thenpateachballdownintoadiskabout½inchthick.Placethedisksonthepreparedtrayandsetaside.

8.FINISHTHESOUPANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethehamhockfromthesoupwithtongsoraslottedspoon,placeitonaplate,andallowittocoolslightly.Fishoutthethymestemsandchileanddiscard.

9.Returnthesouptoasimmerovermediumheat.Gentlydropthedumplings,onebyone, into thesimmeringsoupandstirgently topreventsticking.Coverandsimmerfor30minutes.

10.Whilethedumplingscook,pulltherindoffthehamhockandtearthemeatoff the bones. Discard the rind and bones. Once the dumplings have finishedcooking,returnthetornmeattothesoupandstir.Sprinklewithsaltandpepperandserve.

Leaf-WrappedRiceandBananaBundlesKhaoTomMat(Thailand)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

Khaotommatarealwaysmadewithwholegrainsofsweetrice,butyoucanuseany type of banana or substitute a slice of papaya or plantain.Many bananasfound in Thailand are not available here, but the small red-skinned onesavailable in somemarkets work well, as do the larger, more common yellowones.As thedumplingcooks, thericeexpandsandgetsstickyandsoftaroundthefilling,creatingatypeofricecake.Becausekhaotommatarefashionedwithalooserleafwrap,theyhaveamoreyieldingandlesscompacttexturethandosimilarricedumplingsthataremoretightlywrapped.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheDiamondintheSquareFold.

FortheRiceMixture

¼cupdriedblackturtlebeans,soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hours,or½cupcanned,drainedandrinsed3pandanleaves,eachfoldedinhalfandtiedintoaknotforeasierhandling,or¼teaspoonpandanextract2/3cupfreshcoconutmilk(seeGlossaryofIngredients)orcannedcoconutmilk¼cupsugar½teaspoonsalt1cupmedium-grainsweet(glutinous)whiterice,preferablyfromThailand,rinsed(seeGlossaryofIngredients)andsoakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hours

FortheFilling

2veryripebananas

ForAssembly

Eight8-inchpreparedbanana-leafsquares(seeGlossaryofEquipment)Eight6-inchpreparedbanana-leafsquaresEight36-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthekhaotommat

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.COOKTHEBEANS1TO1½HOURSINADVANCE:(Skipthisstepifusingcannedblackturtlebeans.)Draintheblackturtlebeansandplacetheminasmallsaucepan.Coverthebeanswithplentyofwaterandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Cover,reducetheheat to low, and simmer until the beans are tender, 1 to 1½ hours.Drain andplaceinasmallbowltocool.

2.COOKTHERICE:Placetheknottedpandanleavesinasmallpot.Pourinthecoconutmilk and stir in the sugar and salt.Bring to a simmer overmedium-lowheat.Immediately cover, reduce the heat to very low, and barely simmer for 15minutes.Ifusingfreshcoconutmilk,becarefulnottoletitcometoaboil.

3.Draintherice.Removethepandanleavesfromthecoconutmilkanddiscard.Raise theheat fromvery low to low,mix in the rice, cover, and simmer for3minutes.Uncoverandstirthericeuntilmostoftheliquidhasbeenabsorbed,1to2minutes.Thericewillbefirmandundercooked.Scoopintoabowl,mixinthebeans,andsetasidetocool.

4.ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthekhaotommat,reviewtheDiamond in

theSquareFold.

5. Line a traywith a kitchen towel and have ready the ricemixture, bananas,banana-leafsquares,andties.

6.Peelthebananasandspliteachoneinto4equalpiecesbycuttingthembothcrosswiseandlengthwise.Youwillhave8bananaslices.

7.Layflat1largebanana-leafsquare,smoothsideup,thenplaceasmallerleafsquare,smoothsideup,diagonallyontopofthelargesquare.Center2roundedtablespoonsofthericemixtureontopofthestackedleavesandspreaditoutintoa4×2-inchrectangle.Gentlypressapieceofbananaintothericemixture.Thelength of the banana should not be longer than the 4-inch length of the ricerectangle.Topwith1tablespoonofthericemixture.Foldoveronecornerofthestackedleaves.Foldovertheoppositecorner.Foldtheendsoftheleavesoverasfirmlyasyoucantocreateaneat,rectangularpackage.Tietosecurethefolds,placeitonthelinedtray,andrepeatuntilyouhave8packages.

8.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Arrangethepackagesinthebasket,thenplacethebasketinthepot.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor1hour.Check thewater levelhalfway through thecookingand replenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

9.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafolded kitchen towel. Let the khao tom mat cool slightly, cut off the strings(unlessyouarefreezing thedumplings),andserve.Theycanalsobeservedatroomtemperature.It’sbestnottoopenthepackagestoosoon,andtopeelbacktheleavesjustbeforeeating,sotheystaymoistandwarm.Khaotommatcanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozen(unopened)forupto6months(seeTips).ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).Ifreheatingfrozenkhaotommat,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

WontonswithRedChileOilHungYouChaoShou(China)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT36DUMPLINGS)

Hungyouchaoshouaretastyporkandcabbagedumplingsservedinagenerousslickofchileoil.Theamountofchilerecommendedhereshouldbejustenoughtomakeyoubreakintoagentlesweat,althoughyoucouldofcourseuselessormore. If it’s wonton soup you want, just cook the dumplings in a big pot ofsimmering water until they float and then immediately add them to a pot ofChickenBrothwithChineseFlavors.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheCurled-LetterFold.

FortheFilling

½ pound (2 to 3 small heads) Shanghai bok choy or baby bok choy,trimmed,choppedfine,andhand-wilted(seeTips)½poundfreshlygroundpork2garliccloves,choppedveryfine1teaspoonfreshlygratedginger2scallions,slicedintothinrings1tablespoonsoysauce2teaspoonsricewine1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper

FortheDough

1recipeSheeshBarakbiLaban(SpicyLamb-FilledDumplingsInaThick

YogurtSoup)dough,preferablymadewhilethefillingisbeingchilledbutnomorethan1hourinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheChileOil

¼cupgrapeseedorotherneutraloil2to3teaspoonsmildpuregroundchile,preferablyfromChinaorKorea,orAleppopepperflakes1teaspoonSichuanpeppercorns,finelycrushed1garlicclove,choppedveryfine1tablespoontoastedsesameoil½teaspoonsalt1½teaspoonsricevinegar

ForServing

1scallion,slicedintothinrings

Equipment

Large,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1. MAKE THE FILLING: Scoop the hand-wilted bok choy onto a kitchen towel. Bringtogethertheendsoftheclothandtwisttosqueezeoutasmuchliquidasyoucan.Place the bok choy in a medium bowl and mix in all the remaining fillingingredients. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30minutes but nomore than 6hours.

2.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthewontons,reviewtheCurled-LetterFold.

3.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythe

doughandthefilling.

4.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoabluntlog, thenroll itout intoa9-inchsquare.Thisdoughshouldnotbethickerthan1/16inch, ideallyeventhinner.(Fortipsonhowtorolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Takeyourtimeandsprinklethedoughwithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrestforacoupleofminutes.

5. Trim the edges, creating a cleaner square shape.Cut the dough into 3-inchstrips, then cut across the strips every 3 inches to make 9 squares. Place thesquaresinasinglelayeronthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdoughpieces,separating layerswithkitchen towels.Keep thesquarescoveredasyouwork.Scrapscannotbe reusedbecausedoughrolledout this thin is toodry torecombine.

6.Layflat1to5doughsquares.Brusheachwithaverythincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedteaspoonofthefillingontopofeachsquare.Foldonesideoverthefilling,thenfoldovertheoppositeside.Nowtakebothends,pullthemtogether,overlappingthemabit,andpinchtoseal.Daba little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Place the assembleddumplingsinasinglelayeronthepreparedtrayandkeepthemcoveredwithakitchentowel.Continuewiththeremainingsquaresandfilling.

7.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60 minutes before cooking. Chilling the dumplings helps to set the dough,making them firm and toothsomewhen cooked instead of puffy and soft. Setaside thenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like to cook, andkeep the restfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

8.MAKETHECHILEOIL:Heattheoil,groundchile,Sichuanpepper,thecloveofchoppedgarlic, the sesameoil, and½ teaspoon salt in a small saucepanover lowheat.Cookfor5minutesandremovefromtheheat.Pourtheflavoredoilintoasmallbowl,stirinthericevinegar,andsetaside.(Youcanalsomakethechileoilinadvanceandkeep it refrigerated in a tightly sealedglass container forup to3

months.)

9.COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Filla largepot three-quartersof thewaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

10.Gentlydropupto20dumplings,onebyone,intothesimmeringwater.Stircarefully and occasionally to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them arefloating,thencookfor3minuteslonger.(Ifcookingfrozenwontons,addthemdirectly to the simmering water. Do not allow the dumplings to thaw beforecooking.)

11. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and place them in the largebowl.Drizzlewith a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking.Cook theremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquid.

12.Drainthewontonsandplacetheminalarge,shallowservingbowl.Drizzlewiththechileoil,sprinklewiththescallion,andserve.

CornTamalesStuffedwithStringyCheeseandPoblanoTamalesdeElote(Mexico)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

Bighandfulsofjuicycornkernelsmixedintothebattergivetamalesdeeloteafreshcorntextureandadelicatejuiciness.StripsofOaxacancheeseandpoblanopepper in the center of these tamales add creaminess and a refreshing fruityflavor. If you prefer to leave out the peppers, the cheese alone is a delightfulfilling.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheTwo-HuskTamaleFold1(Wide).

FortheBatter

2largeearsofcornor1½cupsfreshorfrozencornkernels1 recipe Tamale Batter from Fresh Masa or Tamale Batter from MasaHarinamadewithchickenbroth½teaspoonsalt

FortheFilling

½ pound fresh Oaxacan cheese or soft mozzarella cheese, sliced intotwenty-four3-inch-longstrips2 poblano chiles, cored, seeded, and sliced into twenty-four 3-inch-longstrips

ForAssembly

20to25prepareddriedcornhusks(seeGlossaryofEquipment)Eight26-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthetamales

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1. ASSEMBLE THE TAMALES:Before assembling the tamales, review the Two-Husk TamaleFold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generousportionsofbatterbyoverlappingthecornhusks.

2. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make thekernelseasiertocollect.Youwillneed1½cupsofkernels.

3.Loosenupthebatterbywhiskingitfor2to3minutes.Theconsistencyshouldbesomethingsimilar toagrainyanddensemousse. If thebatter is toostiff towhisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer andfluffier.Foldthekernelsandsaltintothebatter.

4.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandhavereadythebatter,stripsofcheeseandpepper,thehusks,andtheties.

5. Pick out the best 16 husks.Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to eachother lengthwisewith thewidestendsonopposite sides.Overlap thehusksbyabout 1½ inches. Center 2 heaping tablespoons of the batter on top of theoverlappinghusks.Arrange3stripsofcheeseand3stripsofpepperontopofthebatter,thenspoonanother2heapingtablespoonsofbatterontop.Foldoveroneside.Foldovertheoppositeside.Foldtheendsoftheoverlappinghusksoverastightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscrosspatterntopreventthehusksfromunfoldingandplaceitonthelinedtray.Repeatuntilyouhave8tamales.

6.Setasidethenumberoftamalesthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherest

frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

7.STEAMTHETAMALES:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothe pot, and bring to a boil over high heat.Meanwhile, arrange the packagesupright,leaningorlooselywedgedagainsteachotherinthebasket.Ballupandstick inanyextrahusksorparchmentpaper tokeep the tamalesproppedup ifneeded. Blanket themwith any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot,reducetheheattomedium,cover,andsteamfor2hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.(Ifsteamingfrozentamales,placethemdirectlyinthebasketandcooktheminthesteamerpotfor2½hours.Donotallowthetamalestothawbeforecooking.)

8.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchen towel.Let the tamalesdeelotecoolslightly,cutoff thestrings,andserve.It’sbestnottoopenthetamalestoosoonandtopeelbackthehusksjustbeforeeatingsotheystaymoistandwarm.

Leaf-WrappedBlack-EyedPeaDumplingsMoyin-Moyin(Nigeria)

SERVES6TO8(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

These steamed banana-leaf-wrapped dumplings call for you to peel off thepaperyskinsofblack-eyedpeas.Thismaysoundtiresome,butinfactit’squiteeasytodo.Theresultisabatchofsavorydumplingsthatarecreamyintextureand,becauseofthetomatopaste,almostsalmon-pinkincolor.Thesearepopulardumplings, sold at markets or directly from stalls, varying according to theadditionofshrimppowderorjustaboutanyfresh,salted,cannedordriedmeatorfish.Slicesofhard-boiledeggandgreenpeasareoftenappreciatedadditions.

These dumplings arewrapped using theEnvelopeFold, but you can alsousetheDiamondintheSquareFoldifyourbananaleavesarebrittleortorn.

FortheDumplings

1cupdriedblack-eyedpeas,soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hours1largeyellowonion,choppedcoarse2teaspoonstomatopaste½cupfreshorfrozengreenpeas1redorgreenbellpepper,cored,seeded,andchoppedfine1teaspoonsalt¼to½teaspooncayenne½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoonshrimppowder(optional)4largehard-boiledeggs,peeledandeachslicedinto4rounds

ForAssembly

Twenty8-inchpreparedbananaleafsquares(seeGlossaryofEquipment)Sixteen24-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthemoyin-moyin

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKE THE BATTER:Draintheblack-eyedpeasandplacetheminalargebowl.Coverthemwithwaterbyatleast4inches.Scoopuphandfulsoftheblack-eyedpeasandrubthembackandforthgentlybetweenyourpalms.Theywillsplitapartasyou rub them against each other, loosening their skins.Occasionally swirl theblack-eyedpeasaround in thewaterso that the loosenedskinscanfloat to thetopandbeskimmedoff.Keep rubbinguntilmostof theblack-eyedpeashavebeenpeeled.Thenuseyour fingers topeel off any remaining skins.Drain theblack-eyedpeasandpickoutanyobviousbitsofskin.

2. Pulse the onion and the tomato paste in a food processor until the onion isfinely chopped. Add the peeled black-eyed peas and pulse until the mixturebecomesagrainybatter,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Drizzleinupto¼cupwater, a little at a time, until the batter is just loose enough to spreadoutevenlywithinthefoodprocessor.

3.Scoopthebatterintoamediumbowlandstir inthegreenpeas,bellpepper,salt,cayenne,blackpepper,andshrimppowder ifdesired. (Youcanalsomakethebatter inadvanceandkeep it tightlycovered in the refrigerator forup to8hours.)

4. ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before assembling the moyin-moyin, review the EnvelopeFold.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandhavereadythebatter,theslicedeggs,thebanana-leafsquares,andtheties.

6.Layflat1banana-leafsquare,smoothsideup.Center2roundedtablespoonsofbatteron topof the leaf.Gentlypressa sliceof egg into thebatter and topwithanothertablespoonofthebatter.Foldoveroneside.Foldovertheoppositeside.Foldtheendsoftheleafoverastightlyasyoucantocreateaneatpackage.Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaf fromunfolding andplaceitonthelinedtray.Repeatuntilyouhave16packages.

7. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS:Remove thebasket from the steamerpot and add2 inchesofwatertothepot.Bringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Meanwhile,arrangethepackages in layerswithin thebasket.Blanket themwithanyremainingbananaleaves.Placethebasketinthepot,reducetheheattomedium,cover,andsteamfor 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through the cooking and replenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

8.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Letthemoyin-moyincoolandsetforabout5minutes,cutoffthestrings(unlessyouarefreezingthedumplings),andserve.It’sbestnottoopenthepackagestoosoonandtopeelbacktheleavesjustbeforeeating,sothatthey stay moist and warm, but they can also be served at room temperature.Moyin-moyincanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).Ifreheatingfrozenmoyin-moyin,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithPorkandBeansBánhTet(Vietnam)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

AlongwithZhongZi(September),thisrecipeisoneofthemostchallenginginthebook.Itwilltestyourdexteritytooverlapthebambooleaves,fillthemwithspoonfulsofpartiallycookedriceandotheringredients,andthenwrapthemupas tightly as you can. The snug wrapping keeps these savory dumplings,designedfortravelwithoutrefrigeration,practicallysterilefordays.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheBamboo-LeafFold.

FortheFilling

½pound boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of skin and excess fat and cutinto8equalpieces1smallyellowonion,cutinhalfandslicedthin1½teaspoonssugar1/8teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1/8teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper2tablespoonsfishsauce,preferablyfromVietnam½cupdriedpeeledmungbeans8smalldriedshiitakeorblackmushrooms,soakedinhotwatertocoverfor30minutes1linkChineseporksausage(lachang),cutdiagonallyinto8thinslices

FortheRice

2/3cupdriedblack-eyedpeas,soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hours,or11/3cupscanned,drainedandrinsed1cup freshcoconutmilk (seeGlossaryof Ingredients)orcannedcoconutmilk2½ cups medium-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice, preferably fromVietnam or Thailand, rinsed (see Glossary of Ingredients) and soaked inplentyofwaterfor6to8hours1teaspoonsalt2scallions,slicedintothinrings

ForAssembly

30preparedbambooleaves(seeGlossaryofEquipment)Eight60-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthebánhtet

ForServing

1recipeSweet,Sour,andSpicyFishSauce

1.MARINATETHEPORK2TO6HOURSINADVANCE:Combinethepork,onion,sugar,blackpepper,whitepepper,andfishsauceinamediumbowl.Coverandrefrigeratefor2to6hours.

2.MAKE THE MUNG BEAN FILLING:Place themungbeans inasmall saucepan.Pour in1cupwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumandsimmeruntil the beans are soft, about 30minutes.Drain off excesswater, if any, andreturn to the stove.Mash the mixture with a potato masher or the back of awoodenspoonintoamoist,chunkypaste.Removefromtheheat,scoopintoabowl,andsetasidetocool.

3.COOKTHEBLACK-EYEDPEASANDTHERICE:(Skipthisstepifusingcannedblack-eyedpeas.)Draintheblack-eyedpeas.Place them ina smallpot,pour inenoughwater tocoverthemby1inch,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntil theyare just tenderbutnotbreakingapart,20 to30minutes.

Drainandsetaside.

4.Pour thecoconutmilk intoamediumpotandplaceovermedium-lowheat.Draintherice.Oncethecoconutmilkiswarm,stirintherice,black-eyedpeas,andsalt.Ifusingfreshcoconutmilk,becarefulnottoletitcometoaboil.Stirandcookuntilallthecoconutmilkhasbeenabsorbed,about3minutes.Removefromtheheatandmixinthescallions.Scoopthispartiallycookedricemixtureintoalargebowlandsetasidetocool.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthebánhtet,reviewtheBamboo-LeafFold.TheBamboo-LeafFolduses2leavesasaplatformforthefillingandathirdleafasacoverbeforeall3leavesarewrappedandfoldedaroundthefilling.

6.Drainthemushroomsandsqueezeoutanyexcesswater.Removeanddiscardthestemsandslicethemushroomsinto¼-inchstrips.

7.Lineatraywithakitchentowel.Havereadythepartiallycookedricemixture,the marinated pork, the mung bean mash, mushroom strips, sausage slices,bambooleaves,andties.

8. Pick out the best 24 bamboo leaves. Place 2 leaves, smooth side up,lengthwise, and alongside each other, in the palm of your hand. Overlap theleavesbyabout1½inches.Center3roundedtablespoonsofthericemixtureontop of the overlapped bamboo leaves and spread out into a rectangle about 4inches long and 2 inches across or about the size of your palm. Scoop up aroundedtablespoonofthemungbeanmashandplaceitovertherice.Arrange4to 5 slices of themushroomover themung beanmash, then place 1 piece ofsausage,1pieceofpork,andsomeoftheonionsontopofthemushrooms.Topeverything with 3 more rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture. Lay a thirdbambooleaf,smoothsidedown,ontopofthemound.Gripandcurlthesidesofthe overlapped bottom leaves over the top leaf. Fold back the top ends of theleaves. Then fold back the bottom ends of the leaves as firmly as you can tocreateaneat, tightrectangularpackage.Wrapandtie thepackage4or5timesacross the width of the dumpling and at least once vertically to prevent theleavesfromunfolding.Placethepackageonthelinedtrayandrepeatuntilyou

have8packages.

9.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Stackthepackagesasevenlyaspossibleinalargepotandpourin enoughwater to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat tomedium,cover,andsimmerfor2to2½hours.Checkthewater levelevery30minutes and replenish with just enough boiling water to keep the packagescovered.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove thebánh tet with tongs,placethemonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowthemtocoolslightly.Cutoffthestrings(unlessyouarefreezingthedumplings)andservewithSweet,Sour,andSpicyFishSauce.It’sbestnot toopenthepackages toosoonandtopeelbacktheleavesjustbeforeeating,sothattheystaymoistandwarm.Bánhtetcanberefrigeratedforupto1weekorfrozen(unopened)forupto6months(seeTips).ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).Ifreheatingfrozenbánhtet,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

Coconut-FilledRiceDumplingsModak(India)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

The customary dumpling of the lengthy and joyous Ganpati Festival is thesupersweetmodak. Its richness comes from a filling of coconut, sugar, andraisins. Although the sweetness of the filling may be over-the-top, thesedumplings are doughy enough to balance out every bite. Modak are oftenpresentedinasmooth,garlic-bulbshapethatcanbedifficulttomaster.Luckily,there is a simpler pear shape that is equally acceptable and much easier tomanage.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBowlFold.

FortheFilling

¼cupraworroastedunsaltedshelledcashewsorpistachios40cardamompodsor1teaspoongroundcardamom1 tablespoon ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such asgrapeseed1cupfreshlygratedcoconut(seeGlossaryofIngredients)orfrozengratedcoconut,thawed1/3cupfinelycrushedjaggery(about2½ounces)orotherunrefinedsugar(seeGlossaryofIngredients)¼cupraisinsordriedcurrantsPinchofsalt1teaspoonrosewatermixedwith¼cupwater

FortheDough

1 tablespoon ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such asgrapeseed¼teaspoonsalt1¾cupswhitericeflour,preferablyfromIndia,plussomeextrafordusting

ForCookingandServing

Gheeoraneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed,tocoatthesteamerbasket¼cupmeltedgheefordipping

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKE THE FILLING: If using rawcashewsor pistachios, roast them in a 375°Fovenuntil they justbegin tobrown,6 to8minutes.Move them immediately into abowlandcoolslightly,thencoarselychopthem.Ifusingpistachios,removetheirpaperyskins.Ifusingcardamompods,splitthemopeninabowlandcollectallofthetinyseeds.Youwillhaveabout1teaspoon.

2.Heat theghee ina largeskilletovermediumheat.Add thecoconutandstirfrequentlyuntillightlybrowned,about2minutes.Mixinthejaggery,thenmixin the nuts, cardamom, raisins, and the pinch of salt and cook for 1 minutelonger.Pourintherosewatermixture,stircontinuously,andcookuntilmostoftheliquidhascookedoff.Themixturewillbestickyandclumpy.Scoopintoabowlandsetasidetocool.(Youcanalsomakethefillinginadvanceandkeepittightlywrappedintherefrigeratorforupto1week.)

3.MAKETHEDOUGH:Placethegheeandthe¼teaspoonsaltinasmallsaucepan,pourin1½cupswater,andbring toaboiloverhighheat.Setaside¼cupof the riceflourandaddtheremaining1½cups,allatonce,totheboilingwater.Stir2or3timestocombine,thenimmediatelyremovefromtheheat.Stirvigorouslyuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbedandthedoughisamoist,stickyball.Scoopthe

doughintoabowlandallowittocoolslightly.

4. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any wayuncomfortable,letitcoolforanotherminuteortwo,butkeepinmindthatyouneedtoworkwiththisdoughwhileitisstillvery,verywarm.Workthedoughinthebowluntilitisasmoothandmanageableball,2to3minutes.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeofthereservedriceflour,alittleatatime,untilthedoughnolongerstickstoyourfingers.Keepthedoughwarmbycoveringitwithatowel.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthemodak,reviewtheBowlFold.

6.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittlericeflour.Alsohavereadythedoughandthefilling.

7.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1½inchesaround.Keep the remainingdoughcoveredwith akitchen towelwhileyouwork.Useyourthumbstoshapeitintoabowlabout1½inchesdeep.Thiswillbeawidebowlthatisbestsupportedinthepalmofyourhand.Place1teaspoonoffillinginthecenterofthedoughbowl.Closebypushingandpinchingtheedgesofthedougharoundandoverthefillinguntilthefillingissurrounded,pushingoutanyair.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.Rerollintoaballanddustwithflour.Holdingthedumplinginthepalmofyourhand,gentlypinchandpull its topuntil the shape ismore likeapear.Placeuprighton thepreparedtrayandgently tapdowntocreateaflatbottomorfootso that itcanstandwithouttippingover.Repeatwiththeremainingfillinganddough.

8.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add1inchofwatertothepot,andbring toaboiloverhighheat.Coat thebottomof thebasketwithghee.Arrangeasmanydumplingsinthebasketasyoucan,spacingthemabout½inchapart.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattolow,andsteamfor15minutes.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a

folded kitchen towel, and allow themodak to cool slightly.Use a spoon or asmallspatula tocarefullymove themontoaplate.Cookanyremainingmodakandservewithmeltedghee.

TapiocaBallsStuffedwithMincedPorkandPeanutsSakooSaiMoo(Thailand)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT24DUMPLINGS)

Tapioca pearls mixed throughout the dough of the sakoo sai moo give it adistinctively bumpy look not seen in any other dumpling. These translucentpearlsalsomakethedumplingsintenselychewy,thebettertosavortheirsweetandspicyporkfilling.Sakoosaimoocanbe trickytoassemblebecauseof thesoftandunusuallyknobbytextureofthedough,sogiveyourselfplentyoftime.Cooked sakoo sai moo are sticky to the touch, but wrapping them in lettuceleavesmakesthemmucheasiertoserveandeat.Lettucealsoaddsarefreshingcontrasttothemildlyspicyfilling.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBowlFold.

FortheFilling

2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1mediumyellowonion,choppedveryfine½poundfreshlygroundpork2garliccloves,choppedveryfine1½tablespoonsfinelychoppedhardpalmsugarorsoftpalmsugarorotherunrefinedsugar(seeGlossaryofIngredients)1 to 2 small Thai red chiles, such as prik kee noo, cored, seeded, andchoppedveryfine¼teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper¼ cup unsalted roasted peanuts, papery skins removed and nuts choppedcoarse1tablespoonfishsauce,preferablyfromThailand3tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantroleaves

FortheDough

1cupsmalltapiocapearls1cuptapiocaflour(tapiocastarch),plussomeextrafordusting

FortheTopping

1teaspoongrapeseedorotherneutraloil4garliccloves,choppedfine1to2smallThairedorgreenchiles,suchasprikkeenoo,slicedintothinrings

ForCookingandServing

Soft lettuce leaves such as Boston or Bibb to line the serving plate andsteamerbasket,plus12additionalleaves,torninhalf,forwrapping

Equipment

8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHEFILLING:Heatthe2tablespoonsoilinamediumskilletoverhighheat.Addtheonionandstiroccasionallyuntiljustsoft,about2minutes.Addtheporkandthe2clovesofchoppedgarlicandcontinuetostiruntiltheporkstartstobrown,breakingupclumpsofporkasyougo,about4minutes.Mixinthepalmsugar,thechoppedredchiles,andthewhitepepperandcookfor1minutelonger.Mixin the peanuts and fish sauce and continue stirring until the pork is goldenbrown,2to3minutes.Removefromtheheatandstirinthecilantro.Scooptheporkmixtureintoabowlandallowittocoolcompletely.(Youcanalsomakethefillinginadvanceandkeepittightlycoveredintherefrigeratorforupto2days.)

2.MAKETHEDOUGH:Boil1½cupswaterinasmallsaucepanoverhighheat.Reducethe

heat to medium and stir in the tapioca pearls. Cook for 3 minutes, stirringcontinuously.Removefromtheheat,scoopintoamediumbowl,andsetasidetocoolslightly.Thecookedtapiocawillsetandthickenasitcools.Thepearlswillbepartiallycookedthroughwithtiny,still-whitecenters.

3. Add ¾ cup of the tapioca flour to the warm tapioca pearls and keep theremaining¼cuphandy.Carefullyworkthemixturewithyourhands.Ifthisisinanywayuncomfortable,letitcoolforanotherminuteortwo,butkeepinmindthatyouneedtoworkwiththisdoughwhileitisstillvery,verywarm.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Youcanworkthisdoughwithall the force needed to incorporate the flour, and youwill not crush or breakapart thepearls.If thedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingtapiocaflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

4. Place the dough on a surface dusted with tapioca flour and knead for 2minutes.Sprinklewithmoretapiocaflourifitgetsalittlesticky.Thedoughwillbesoftandveryelastic.Placethedoughbackintothebowlandkeepwarmbycoveringitwithatowel.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthesakoosaimoo,reviewtheBowlFold.

6.Lineatraywithakitchentowelanddustitwithtapiocaflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

7.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandroll it intoaballabout1 incharound.Keeptheremainingdoughcoveredwithakitchentowelasyouwork.Useyourthumbstoshapetheballintoabowlabout1inchdeep.Thiswillbeawideandfloppy bowl that is best supported in the palmof your hand. Place a roundedteaspoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pushing andpinching theedgesof thedougharoundandover the fillinguntil the filling issurrounded,pushingoutanyair.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.Rerollintoaball,dustwithtapiocaflour,andplaceonthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

8.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Lineaservingplatewithlettuceleaves.

9.Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Linethebottomofthebasketwithlettuceleaves.Arrangeasmanydumplingsinthebasketasyoucan,spacingthemabout½inchapart.Placethebasketinthepot,cover,reducetheheattolow,andsteamfor10minutes.Uncoverandsteamfor2minuteslonger.

10.MAKE THE TOPPING:While thedumplings steam,heat the1 teaspoonoil in a smallskilletovermediumheatandaddthe4clovesofchoppedgarlic.Cookuntilthegarlicisgoldenbrown,about2minutes.Removefromtheheatandscoopintoasmallbowl.Mixinthechilerings.

11. Once the sakoo sai moo have finished steaming, remove the steamer potfromtheheat.Carefully remove thebasket,place itona foldedkitchen towel,and allow the dumplings to cool slightly. Using a spoon or small spatula,carefullymove them to thepreparedplate.Serve immediatelywhileyou cookany remaining sakoo sai moo. Serve with a sprinkle of the garlic and chilemixtureandthelettuceleafwrappers.

September

WILDGRAPESANDDUMPLINGS

(UnitedStates)

BOSTONBROWNBREAD

(UnitedStates)

CHICKENFRICOTWITHDUMPLINGS

(Canada)

CHICKENANDDUMPLINGSOUP

(UnitedStates)

BREADANDSEMOLINALOAF

HouskovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)

OATANDHONEYPUDDING

(Ireland)

GRAHAMPOTATOBUNS

(UnitedStates)

LAYEREDAPPLEANDBREADPUDDING

(UnitedStates)

BEEFANDOYSTERSTEWWITHSUETDUMPLINGS

(England)

MILDYOGURTSEMOLINACAKES

RavaIdli(India)

BUCKWHEATDUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHAPPLESANDCHEESE

VarenikisYablokami(Russia)

POTATODUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHSUGAR-STUFFEDPLUMS

ŠvestkovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)

LEAF-WRAPPEDRICEPACKAGESSTUFFEDWITHPEANUTSANDSAUSAGE

ZhongZi(China)

WildGrapesandDumplings

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4TO5(MAKESABOUT12DUMPLINGS)

This brilliantly purple dessert is bothwarming and refreshing.Like the PeachandBerryGrunt(August),thisisadishofsimplecakelikedumplingscookedina fruit stew.PossumgrapesorwildMuscadine are ideal, but if you can’t findthem,Concordgrapes are a fine substitute.Versionsof thisdumplingdish arefoundnationwide,especiallyinChoctaw,Cherokee,andLenaperegions.Itcanbemadewithbottledgrapejuice,buttheresultsarefarsuperiorandworththeeffortwhenthedumplingsaresimmeredinfreshlysqueezedgrapejuice.

ForCooking

4cupsMuscadineorConcordgrapesfor juicingor2½cupsunsweetenedbottledConcordgrapejuice4cupsMuscadineorConcordgrapesforstewing2tablespoonshoney,preferablyraw

FortheDumplings

1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour1tablespoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonsalt1½tablespoonssugar3tablespoonscoldunsaltedbutter,cutintobits

½cupcoldmilk

Equipment

Large,widepotorskilletwithcover

1.JUICETHEGRAPES:Ifmakingyourownjuice,placethegrapesforjuicinginablenderor a foodprocessor andblend into a thin pulp.Strain the juice through a finesieveintoabowl,pressingdownonthepulpwiththebackofaspoon.Measureout2½cupsofjuiceandsetaside.Ifthejuicemeasureslessthan2½cups,addjustenoughwatertomakeupthedifference.

2.Placethegrapesforstewingandthehoneyinthelargepot.Pourinthegrapejuiceandsetaside.

3. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Place 1¼ cups of the flour in a medium bowl and keep theremaining¼cuphandy.Addthebakingpowder,salt,andsugarandmixwell.Addthebutterandworkitintotheflourmixturewithapastrycutteror2butterknivesuntilitlookslikeadampcornmeal.Graduallydrizzleinthemilk,stirringconstantly.Work the doughwith your hands into onemanageable ball. If thedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

4. Place the dough on a floured surface and shape it into a blunt log. Pat thedoughintoa4×9-inchrectangle.Workingalongthe9-inchside,cutthedoughevery¾inch.Thesestripswillbequitesoftandarebestleftontheworksurfaceuntilit’stimetoputtheminthesimmeringjuice.

5.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Bringthegrapesandjuicemixtureinthepottoaboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

6.Gentlydropthedoughstrips into the juice,formingasingle layerontopofthegrapes.Coverandcookfor15minutes.Servethesedumplingswithgenerous

amountsofgrapesandsauce.Serveasisorwithvanillaicecream.

BostonBrownBread

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Equalpartswholewheatflour,ryeflour,andcornmealgivethissteamedbreadits interesting, complex flavor.You can buy thismixture prepackaged, but it’seasyenough tomakeyourown.Thebrownsugar, raisins, andmolassesaddadarksweetnessandcolor.Thisbreadissweetenoughtobeadessert,oritcanbeusedtomaketraditionalteasandwiches.SlicesofleftoverBostonbrownbreadtoast beautifully andmake great crumbs for parfaits or bread cubes for breadpuddings.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDumpling

¼cupgrahamorwholewheatflour¼cupryeflour¼cupcoarseyellowcornmeal2teaspoonsbakingsoda¼teaspoonsalt¾cupbuttermilk2tablespoonsmolasses3 tablespoons lightmuscovado or other unrefined sugar (seeGlossary ofIngredients)1/3cupraisins(optional)

ForCookingandServing

UnsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasinUnsaltedbutterorcreamcheeseforserving

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.MAKE THE BATTER:Combinethegrahamflour,ryeflour,cornmeal,bakingsoda,andsalt in a large bowl. In another bowl, mix together the buttermilk, molasses,sugar, and raisins, if desired, until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Set bothmixturesaside.

2.ASSEMBLEANDSTEAMTHEDUMPLING:Beforeassemblingthebrownbread,reviewthePuddingBasinSetup.

3.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.

4.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

5.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutterandcoatingitwithsugar.Givethebuttermilkmixtureagoodstir,pouritintotheflourmixture,andstiruntilcombined.Donotovermix.Scoopthebatterinto the basin and give it a gentle shake to level it off. Cut out a round ofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthebatter.Coverthebasinwiththedampmuslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the

muslinintohandlesoverthetopofthebrownbread.

6.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast1½hours,orupto2½hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavorandtexture.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

7.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholder tograsptheclothhandle,carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallowthebrownbreadtocoolfor5minutes.Removethestring,cloth,andpaper.Unmoldbyinvertingitontoaplate.Sliceandservewithbutterorcreamcheese.Brownbreadcanbekeptrefrigeratedforupto3days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

ChickenFricotwithDumplings

(Canada)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT12DUMPLINGS)

ThisclassicAcadiandishislikemostotherchickenanddumplingstewrecipesin that it requires dropping spoonfuls of biscuitlike dough onto its simmeringsurface.Whatmakesitdistinctiveistheuseoffreshsavoryandlotsofpotatoes.Traditionally, salt pork goes into the base of fricots, but if you can’t find saltpork,baconcanbesubstituted,althoughtheflavorwillbeabitsmoky.Summersavoryisafragrantherbinthemintfamily,butitsaromaandflavorareclosertothyme. Ithas amilder flavor thanwinter savoryand ismuchmorecommonlyusedforcooking.Youcanfinditfreshatspecialtyfoodmarkets,ordriedatmostsupermarkets.

FortheStew

¼poundsaltpork,cutinto¼-inchcubesOne3-to4-poundchicken,skinon,cutintoservingpieces1mediumyellowonion,choppedcoarse2tablespoonsunbleachedall-purposeflour5blackpeppercorns2largecarrots,slicedinto1-inchrounds3mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset,cutinto1-inchcubes1 tablespooncoarselychopped fresh summer savory leavesor1 teaspoondried

FortheDumplings

1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour2teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspoonsalt2tablespoonscoldunsaltedbutter,cutintobits¾cupcoldwater

1.MAKE THE STEW:Place thesaltporkina large,widepotovermediumheatandstiroccasionallyuntilenoughfathasmeltedofftocoatthebottomofthepot,about2minutes.Addthechickenpieces,skinsidedown,inonelayeranddonotturnuntil the undersides are golden brown, about 8 minutes. Turn and brown theother sides, about6minutes longer.Move thechickenwitha slotted spoonortongstoabowl,leavingbehindthebitsofsaltporkandoilyfat.Stirtheonionsintothefatandcookfor2minutes.Sprinkleinthe2tablespoonsflourandcook,stirring frequently, until the mixture turns a deep caramel brown, about 8minutes.

2.Pourin6cupswaterandscrapeupanystickybitsoffthebottomofthepotwithawoodenspoon.Return thechickenpiecesandanydrippings to thepot.Addthepeppercorns.Coverandsimmerfor1hour,stirringoccasionally.

3.Takeout thechickenwithaslottedspoonor tongsandplaceit inabowltocool.Addthecarrots,potatoes,andsavorytothesimmeringstew,cover,reducetheheattolow,andcookfor30minuteslonger,stirringoccasionally.

4.Meanwhile,preparethechicken.Oncethechickeniscoolenoughtohandle,removetheskin.Pullthemeatoffthebones,tearitintobite-sizedpieces,placethepiecesbackinthebowl,anddiscardthebones.

5.Oncethevegetableshavecooked,mixthechickenbackintothestew.Reducethe heat to very, very low to keep the stew hot until it’s time to add thedumplings.(Youcanalsomakethestewinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.Ifthestewistoothicktostireasily,addalittlewatertothinitout.)

6.MAKETHEBATTERANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Combinethe1cupflour,bakingpowder,andsaltinamediumbowl.Addthebutterandworkitintotheflourmixturewithapastrycutteror2butterknivesuntilitlookslikeacoarse,dampmeal.Pourinthecoldwater and stir until you have a doughy and slightly lumpy batter. Do notovermix.

7.Scoopuparoundedtablespoonofbatter.Useanotherspoonoryourfingertomovethebattergentlyoffthespoonandontothesurfaceofthestew.Dropintheremaining spoonfuls of batter, as close together as possible without touching.Coverandsimmerfor10minutes,thenuncoverandcookfor5minuteslongerandserve.

ChickenandDumplingSoup

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT50DUMPLINGS)

The dumplings are the main event in this classic creamy chicken and celerysoup.Madefromasimpleflourandwaterdough,theyaresmoothandslippery,whichiswhytheyarereferredtoattimesas“slickdumplings.”Becausetheyarecookedinthesoup,theyabsorbalotofflavorandaredeliciousbythemselves,scooped out of the pot as a snack. Cooked celery develops amild and sweettaste.Foranevensubtlerceleryflavor,usetheinnermoststalksortheheart.Ifyouarelookingforadarker,moreintenseversionofchickenanddumplings,trytheChicken FricotwithDumplings (preceding recipe) or theCsirke PaprikasGaluskaval(October).

FortheSoup

One4-to5-poundchicken,cutintoservingpieces,skinremoved1largeyellowonion,choppedcoarse1garlicclove,choppedcoarse1freshrosemarysprig2bayleaves5celeryribswithleaves,cutinto½-inchpieces2teaspoonssalt1/3cupheavycreamSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

FortheDumplings

1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting½teaspoonbakingpowder2teaspoonssalt2tablespoonscoldunsaltedbutter,cutintobits½cupcoldwater

1.MAKETHESOUP:Placethechicken,onion,garlic,rosemary,andbayleavesinalargepot.Pourin2quartswaterandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Mixintheceleryandthesalt,cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor1hour.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.(Youcanalsomakethesoupinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

2.MAKE THE DOUGH:While the soup is simmering,place1cupof the flour ina largebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addthebakingpowderandsaltandmixwell.Addthebutterandworkitintotheflourmixturewithapastrycutteror2butterknivesuntilitlookslikeacoarse,dampmeal.Pourinthecoldwaterandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoone manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of theremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor2to3minutes.Returnthedoughtothebowl,cover,andrefrigeratefor30minutes.

4.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

5.Place thedoughonaflouredsurface,kneadonceor twice,andshapeintoablunt log.Roll the logout into a 10-inch square about 1/8 inch thick.Using asharpknife,cutthedoughinto1-inchstripsandthencutacrossthestripsat2-inchintervals.Placethedoughrectanglesandallthescrapsinonelayeronthepreparedtray.

6.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Oncethesouphassimmeredfor1hour,takethechickenpiecesoutwithaslottedspoonortongsandplacetheminabowltocool.Removeanddiscardtherosemarystem.Stirthecreamintothesimmeringsoup.Reducethe

heattovery,verylowtokeepthesouphotwhilepreparingthechicken.

7.Oncethechickeniscoolenoughtohandle,pullthemeatoffthebones,tearitintobite-sizedpieces,placethepiecesbackinthebowl,andsetaside.Discardthebones.

8.Bring the soup toa strong simmerovermedium-highheat.Drop thedoughrectanglesandscraps,afewata time, into thesoupandstirgently.Coverandcookfor10minutes.Stir inthechicken,sprinklewithsaltandpeppertotaste,simmerforaminutelonger,andserve.

BreadandSemolinaLoafHouskovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)SERVES4(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Traditionally served with roast pork and sauerkraut, houskové knedlíky is afoolproof side to any meal that has plenty of sauce, roasted meat, or stewedvegetables. Bits of bread are mixed into a soft semolina dough, creating aglistening,slightlydenseloaf.Houskovéknedlíkycanalsobeslicedandturnedintoextra-softFrenchtoastthenextday,oritcanbeworkedintoyourfavoritebreadpudding.

FortheDumplings

2cupssemolinaflour,plussomeextrafordusting2teaspoonsbakingpowder1½teaspoonssalt1largeegg,beaten1¼cupsmilk6cups½-inchcrustlesswhitebreadcubes(seeGlossaryofIngredients)

1.MAKE THE DOUGH:Lineatraywithasmoothkitchentowelandsprinklewithalittlesemolinaflour.

2. Place the semolina flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl andmixwell. Add the eggs and milk and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed.Don’tovermix.Youwillhaveaverymoiststickydough.

3.Add2cupsofthebreadcubesandworkthemintothedough.Forthosenewto this recipe itcanfeelstrange tocombinebread intodough,but itwillcome

togetherasyouknead.Continuekneadinginthebreadcubes,2cupsatatime,untilallthebreadhasbeenadded.Theendresultwillbeastiff,chunkydough.

4.Shape thedough intoa logabout9 inches long.Placeon theprepared tray,cover,andrestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Filla large,widepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Slidethedumplinggentlyintothewater.Cover,reducetheheat to low, and cook for 15minutes. Turn over the dumpling, or dumplings,cover,andcookfor10minuteslonger.

6.Carefullylift thehouskovéknedlíkyoutof thepotwith2slottedspoonsandplaceona servingplate.Let rest for2 to3minutes.Servewith roastedmeatsand sauce.This dumpling is so tender that it’s best to slice into itwith a tautpieceoffinestring.Houskovéknedlíkycanberefrigeratedforupto3days.

OatandHoneyPudding

(Ireland)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Mostofustendtoeatoatmealinjustoneortwoways—cerealandcookies—butthis oat and honey pudding is a great alternative to such classics. Steamedoatmealpuddingscomeindozensofvarieties,butthisparticularversioncreatesa dense cakelike pudding with the flavors of whole wheat and honey. If youdon’twanttousecherries,useraisinsoranyotherdriedfruit.Becausethebatterismadewithamodestamountofhoney,it’snicetodrizzlealittleextrahoneyovereachslice.Theoatsinthisrecipearenotpressed,rolled,orinstant.Steel-cutoatsareusedbecauseoftheirlongercookingtime,sturdytexture,andfreshoatmealtaste.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDumpling

½cupsteel-cutoats¼cupsugar3tablespoonshoney,preferablyraw4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,melted1largeegg,beaten1teaspoonbakingpowder1/8teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg¼teaspoongroundginger½cupunsweeteneddriedtartcherries(optional)

½cupwholewheatflour

ForCookingandServing

UnsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasinUnsaltedbutterandhoney,preferablyrawforserving

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.MAKE THE BATTER 1 HOUR IN ADVANCE:Bring2cupswatertoaboilinasmallpot.Stirintheoats, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, untilcreamyandthick,about30minutes.Scooptheoatsintoalargebowl,setthemaside,andcooltoroomtemperature.

2. Once the oats have cooled, add the sugar, honey, the melted butter, egg,bakingpowder,salt,nutmeg,groundginger,andcherriesandmixwell.Foldinsomeof thewholewheat flour, a little at a time, until the batter just holds itsshapewhenscoopedupwithaspoon.

3. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSetup.

4.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.

5.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetween

thebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

6.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutter and coating itwith sugar. Scoop the batter into the basin andwiggle itgentlytolevelitoff.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthebatter.Cover thebasinwith thedampmuslinandsecure it tightlywith thestring.Tie the opposite corners of themuslin into handles over the top of thepudding.

7.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast1½hours,orupto2½hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavorandtexture.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

8.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholder tograsptheclothhandle,carefullyremovethebasinfromthepotandputitonafoldedkitchentowel,andallow the pudding to cool for 5minutes.Remove the string, cloth, and paper.Unmoldby inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve, toppedwith somebutterand a spoonful of honey. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

GrahamPotatoBuns

(UnitedStates)

SERVESUPTO9(MAKES9DUMPLINGS)

Thesesteamedgrahampotatobunsareeasytomakeandareequallymarvelouswith honey or jam or smothered in a savory sauce. They satisfy cravings forfreshlymadewholewheatbreadandare just right for sandwiches.Thepotatosoftens the texture of the graham flour and turns what would otherwise be adensedoughintosomethingspongyanddelicate.Leftovermashedpotatoescanbeusedaslongastheyhaveonlyalittlebutterormilk,butsuchcreamyaccentswillrequiretheadditionofa littlemorewhiteflour to thedough.Foradenserwholewheatsteamedbun,tryTingMomo(February).

FortheDumplings

¾cupwarmmilk2teaspoonssugar1¼teaspoonsactivedryyeast(about½packet)½cupricedorwell-mashedpotato(about1smallbakingpotato)2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil11/3cupsgrahamflour2/3cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting½teaspoonsalt

ForCooking

Grapeseedorotherneutraloiltocoatthecakepan

Equipment

2-inch-highsteamerrack9-inchroundcakepanPotlargeenoughtoholdboththerackandthepanwhencovered

1.PROOFTHEYEAST:Pourthemilkintoalargebowl,stirinthesugarandtheyeast,andprooffor15minutes.Thesurfaceshouldbecomefoamy.Ifnot,startagainwithanewyeastpacket.Mixinthemashedpotatoandtheoil.

2.MAKE THE DOUGH:Combine thegrahamflourandall-purpose flour ina largebowl.Scoopoutandsetaside¼cup.Addthesalttothemixturethatremainsandmixwell.Pourinthepotatoandyeastmixtureandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifitistoowetandsticky,work insomeof theremainingflourmixture,a littleata time,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor3to5minutes.Thedoughwillbesoftandtacky.Returnthedoughtothebowl,coverwithakitchentowel,andsetasideinawarmanddarkplaceuntilthedoughdoublesinsize,1½to2hours.Use theProofingPotSetup (Tips) if the temperatureof the room isnotideal.

4.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Coatthebottomandsidesofthecakepanwithoil.

5.Punchdownthedough,placeitonaflouredsurface,andkneadonceortwice.Dividethedoughinto9equalpieces.Kneadeachpieceonceortwice,thenrollintoaball.Onceall thedoughhasbeen rolled intoballs,arrange themevenlywithin the prepared cakepan.Thedoughballs should be close enough to justbarely touch each other. Cover with a kitchen towel and set aside whilepreparingthesteamer.

6.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Placeasteamerrackintothepot,add1½inchesofwatertothepot,andbring toaboiloverhighheat.Lower the filledcakepan into thepot.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor30minutes.

7.Removethepotfromtheheat,carefullyliftthecakepanoutofthepot,placeitonafoldedkitchentowel,andallowthebunstocoolslightly.Removethemfrom the pan individually or as a segmented loaf. Serve warm or at roomtemperature.Grahampotatobunscanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).Ifreheatingfrozenbuns,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

LayeredAppleandBreadPudding

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4TO5(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Thisgreatappledessertmayhaveasomewhatsloppylookwhenturnedoutofitsbasin,butoncesliceditshowsoffitslayersbeautifullyandtastesabsolutelywonderful.The condensedmilk brings a rich, long-cooked flavor to the breadandapples,whilecoatingthebasinwithdarksugaraddsatemptingcaramelizedcoating.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDumpling

4cups½-inchcrustlesswhitebreadcubes(seeGlossaryofIngredients)6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks4crisp,tartapples,suchasGrannySmith2 tablespoons lightmuscovado or other unrefined sugar (seeGlossary ofIngredients)¼teaspoonwholecloves,finelycrushed¼teaspoongroundginger

FortheCustardSauce

¾cupmilk¼cupsweetenedcondensedmilk3largeeggs,beaten

3tablespoonslightmuscovadoorotherunrefinedsugar¼teaspoongroundcinnamon1/8teaspoonsalt

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin1recipeVanillaCustardSauce,SweetenedWhippedCream,orvanillaicecream

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.PREPARETHEBREADANDTHEAPPLES:Placethebreadcubesinalargebowl.Melt4tablespoonsofthebutterinalargeskillet,drizzleitoverthebreadcubes,andtosswithyourfingersuntilevenlycombined.

2. Peel, core, and slice the apples into thin wedges. Melt the remaining 2tablespoonsbutterinaskilletoverhighheat.Addtheapplesandstirfrequentlyuntil lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the 2 tablespoons sugar, thecloves,andtheginger.Reducetheheattolowandcookuntiltheapplessoftenandturngoldenbrown,about2minuteslonger.Scooptheapplesintoabowlandsetasidetocool.

3.MAKETHECUSTARDSAUCE:Combinethemilkandthecondensedmilkinasmallsaucepanandplaceovermediumheatuntilitbeginstobubbleatthesidesofthepan.Donotallowittocometoafullsimmer.Immediatelyremovefromtheheatandsetaside.

4.Whisk together theeggs,3 tablespoons sugar, cinnamon,andsalt ina largebowluntilsmooth.Continuetowhiskvigorouslywhilegraduallydrizzlinginthewarmmilkmixture.

5. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSetup.

6.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.Havereadythebread,cookedapples,andcustardsauce.

7.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

8.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutterandcoatingitwithsugar.Arrangeanoverlappingsinglelayeroftheappleslicesonthebottomofthebasin.Dividetherestoftheapplesinto2equalpiles.Divide thebreadcubes into3equalpiles.Spread1pileofbreadontopof theapplesalreadyinthebasin,followedbyanotherlayerofapples,asecondlayerofbread,anotherlayerofapples,andthenafinallayerofbread.Slowlydrizzlethecustardsauceevenlyoverthetop.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplace it on top of the custard-soaked layers. Cover the basin with the dampmuslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of themuslinintohandlesoverthetopofthepudding.Placeitintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes.

9.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast2hours,orupto3hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavor and texture.Check thewater level every30minutes and replenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholdertograsptheclothhandle,carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallow the pudding to cool for 5minutes.Remove the string, cloth, and paper.Unmoldbyinvertingitontoaplate.Sliceandservewarm,toppedwithVanillaCustardSauce,SweetenedWhippedCream,orvanilla icecream.Thepuddingcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

BeefandOysterStewwithSuetDumplings

(England)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES12DUMPLINGS)

Suet dumplings are a classic pairing with beef and oyster stew. They’re bestmadewithunrenderedsuet,butifyouwantasubtlersuettasteyoushouldrenderit(seeGlossaryofIngredients),chillituntilfirm,rubitintotheflour,andthencontinuewiththerecipe.Freshoysterscanbefoundshelledandintubsatsomefishshops,specialtyshops,ormarkets.Besuretokeepalltheliquidthatcomeswiththeoysters,becauseyouwilluseitinthestew.

FortheStew

¼poundbacon,choppedcoarse2poundsbeefstewmeat,cutinto2-inchpieces1mediumyellowonion,choppedcoarse1½tablespoonsunbleachedall-purposeflour1cupbrownale1tablespoonWorcestershiresauce2teaspoonstomatopaste6freshthymesprigsor2teaspoonsdried½teaspoonfreshlygratedmaceornutmeg½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1quartBeefBrothwithBritishFlavors12largewhitebuttonmushrooms15largefreshsageleaves,choppedcoarse20to25freshlyshuckedoysters,undrained(justover1cup)

FortheDumplings

1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour1½teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspoonsalt¼cupveryfinelychoppedcoldsuet2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves¾cupcoldwater

1.MAKE THE STEW:Place thebacon ina large,widepotovermediumheatandcook,stirring occasionally, until it has rendered enough fat to generously coat thebottomofthepot.Addthebeefandstiroccasionallyuntilgoldenbrownonallsides,6 to8minutes.Usingaslottedspoon,movethebeefandthebacontoabowl, leaving behind the oily fat. Stir the onion into the fat and cook for 2minutes.Sprinkleinthe1½tablespoonsflourandcook,stirringfrequently,untilthemixtureisadark,caramelbrown,about8minutes.

2.Stirthealeintotheonionmixtureandscrapeupthebitsfromthebottomofthe pot with a wooden spoon. Let themixture come to a simmer and reduceslightly,about2minutes.StirintheWorcestershiresauce,tomatopaste,thyme,mace,salt,andpepper.Returnthebeef,bacon,andanyoftheirdrippingsbackintothepot.Pourinthebroth,raisetheheattohigh,andbringtoaboil.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntil thebeefisfork-tender,about2hours.(You can also make the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.Bringthestewbacktoasimmerbeforeaddingthemushrooms,sage,andtheoysters.Ifthestewistoothicktostireasily,addalittlewatertothinitout.)

3.MAKE THE BATTER: Toward the end of the beef’s cooking time, combine the 1 cupflour,bakingpowder,andsaltinalargebowl.Addandrubthesuetcompletelyintotheflourmixturewithyourfinger,makingsuretherearenobulkyclumps.Mixintheparsley.Pourinthecoldwaterandmixuntilyouhaveathick,slightlylumpybatter.Donotovermix.Coverandsetaside.

4. FINISH THE STEW AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Once the beef has finished cooking, cut the

mushroomsinto¼-inchslices.Stirthemushroomsandsageintothestew,cover,andsimmerfor10minutes.

5.Stirintheoystersandalloftheirjuices.Thereshouldbejustenoughliquidinthestewtocoverthebeef.(Mixinalittlewaterifneeded.Oncethestewreturnsto a simmer, you can immediately begin to add the dumplings.) Scoop up aheaping tablespoon of batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move thebatter gently off the spoon and onto the surface of the stew. Drop remainingspoonfuls of batter as close together as possiblewithout their touching.Coverand simmer for 10minutes.Uncover and cook for 3minutes longer.Removefromtheheatandserve.

MildYogurtSemolinaCakesRavaIdli(India)

SERVES4TO5(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

Ravaidliarenutty,buttery,andquitedifferentfromthecleaner-tastingSadaIdli(July). The toasting of the dry ingredients, especially the ground semolina, iswhatmakesthesedumplingssofragrantandtasty.Alittlebitofyogurtgivesthebatteran instant tang thatother rice-based idlibattersdeveloponlyafterhours(or sometimes days) of natural fermentation, so this batter doesn’t need thewarmermonthstohelpdevelopitszingyflavor—theyogurtdoesthejob.Likesadaidli,ravaidliareoftenservedwithvegetablesambharandcoconutchutney.Idlimolds—roundmetalplateswithperforatedrounddepressions—areusuallysoldinstacksor“trees”sothatasmanyidliaspossiblecanbesteamedatonce.YoucanbuyidlitreesatmostIndiansupermarkets.

FortheDumplings

¼cuppeeledblackgram(uraddal)½teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½cupcoarselygroundsemolinaflour(soojiorrava)1cupnonchlorinatedwater,suchasdistilledorspringwater½cupplainwhole-milkyogurt1teaspoongratedfreshginger¼teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoonsalt

ForCookingandServing

Grapeseedorotherneutraloiltocoattheidlimolds1recipeeachVegetableSambharandCoconutChutney

Equipment

PotlargeenoughtoholdtheidlitreewhencoveredIdlitreewith3or4layers

1.MAKETHEBATTER4TO6HOURS INADVANCE:Toasttheblackgraminasmallskilletovermediumheat, stirringor shaking thepanconstantly,until it is lightlybrowned,about5minutes.Placeinasmallbowl,coverwithplentyofwater,andsoakfor2to3hours.

2. Combine themustard seeds and the semolina flour in the same skillet andtoastovermediumheat.Stir themixtureuntil thesemolina is lightlybrowned,about3minutes.Placethemixtureinalargebowlandsetaside.

3.Draintheblackgramandturnit intoafoodprocessor.Pourin¼cupofthenonchlorinatedwaterandprocessuntil themixtureisfrothyandslightlygritty,about2minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.

4.Add the black grammixture to the toasted semolina alongwith the yogurt,ginger,andtherestofthenonchlorinatedwaterandmixwell.Coverwithaclothandrestatroomtemperaturefor2to3hours.Thebatterwillswellslightlyandlookalittlesofter.

5.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Add1inchofwatertothepotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Detachthelayersoftheidlitreeandcoateachmoldwithalittleoil.

6.Addthebakingsodaandthesalttothebatterandmixgently.

7.Filleachmoldwith2heapingtablespoonsofbatter.Assembletheidlitreeand

carefullyinsertitintothepot.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor20minutes.

8.Removethepotfromtheheat.Placetheidlitreeonafoldedkitchentowelandlet the rava idli cool slightly.Using a butter knife or a small spatula, unmoldthem gently and keep warm. Cook the remaining batter, and serve withVegetableSambharandCoconutChutney.

BuckwheatDumplingsStuffedwithApplesandCheeseVarenikisYablokami(Russia)SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

Thesedumplingsareoftenstuffedwithblueberriesorcherries,butbecauseafairamountofsugarisneededtobalanceoutthenaturaltartnessofsuchfruit,theycan be quite sweet. Apple-filled varieties need less sugar, and they don’toverwhelm themore delicate flavors of the farmer cheese. Forcing the cheesethroughasieveafewtimesgivesyouamuchfinercurd,andwhenthecurdsaretinytheyclingtotheapplebetter.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheHalf-MoonFold.

FortheDough

1½cupslightbuckwheatflour½cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting¼teaspoonsalt2largeeggs,beaten

FortheFilling

1teaspoonpoppyseeds1cupsoftfarmercheese,drainedfor1hour(seeGlossaryofIngredients),or1¼cupscottagecheese,drainedfor4to8hours1largeeggyolk1tablespoonsugar1tablespoonfreshlemonjuiceand½teaspoongratedzest1largecrisp,tartapple,suchasGrannySmithorGala

ForServing

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeservingSourcreamandsugarforserving

Equipment

2¾-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Combinethefloursinalargebowl.Scoopoutandsetaside¼cup.Addthesalt,eggs,and¼cupwatertothemixturethatremainsandmixuntilallthe liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into onemanageableball. If thedough iswetandsticky,work in someof the reservedflourmixture,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.Kneadthedoughinthebowlfor2to3minutes,sprinklingwithalittleall-purposeflourifitgetssticky.Coverandletitrestfor15minutes.

2.MAKETHEFILLING:Toastthepoppyseedsinasmallskilletovermediumheat,stirringconstantlyfor2minutes.Immediatelymovethemtoasmallbowltocool.

3. Hold a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl and push the drained farmer cheesethroughitwithawoodenspoonorarubberspatula.

4. Combine the cheese, egg yolk, 1 tablespoon sugar, lemon juice, zest, andpoppyseedsinamediumbowl.Peel,core,andcuttheappleinto¼-inchcubes,thenstiritintothecheesemixture.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthevarenikisyablokami,reviewtheHalf-MoonFold.

6.Linea traywith akitchen towel and sprinklewith a little all-purpose flour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

7.Knead the doughonce or twice on a floured surface, then divide it in half.Rollonepieceintoaballandrollitoutuntilit’sabout1/8inchthick.

8.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually18to20.Collect all scraps fromaround the roundsandput asideunder adampkitchentowelforlateruse.

9.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedteaspoonoffillingontopofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.Combineallthedoughscraps,kneadthemintoaball,rollitout,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,andfillandfoldthosetoo.

10.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithlightlysaltedwaterandbringittoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

11.Gentlydropupto20dumplings,afewatatime,intothesimmeringwater.Stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3minutes,thencookfor3minuteslonger.

12.Remove thedumplingswithaslottedspoon,place themin the largebowl,and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook theremainingdumplings,placetheminthebowlwithanotherladleofthecookingliquid,andkeepwarm.

13.Drain thevareniki s yablokami andplace them in a shallow servingbowl.Drizzlewiththemeltedbutter, topwithspoonfulsofsourcream,sprinklewithsugar,andserve.

PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithSugar-StuffedPlumsŠvestkovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)SERVES4(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

MakethesedumplingswithItalianplumsthatareperfectlyripe.Overripeplumswillbreakdowntoomuchduringcooking,whileunderripeplumswillcauseyoutoovercookthedoughwhileyouwaitfortheplumstocookallthewaythrough.Italianplumsaresmallandovalandmostoftenhaveadeeppurple-blackskin.Their flesh is sweetandsticky,andwhencooked insidea layerofdough theysoftenintoapulpyjam.Acreamtoppingaddstotheexperienceandisnearlyasimportant to this dish as the plums themselves. Farmer cheese is also a greattopping.Ageneroussprinklingoffriedbreadcrumbsaddscrunchandatoastedflavor.Ifyouarenewtopotatodough,itisdelicate,andyoumightwanttofirstgainexperiencewithasimplerpotatodumplinglikeKartoffelklösse(November)orKluski l skie(February).

FortheDough

4mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset1teaspoonsalt1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1largeegg,beaten

FortheFilling

½cupsugar1½tablespoonsgroundcinnamon20ripebutfirmItalianplums,unpeeled,cutinhalf,pitsremoved,andthehalveskepttogether

ForServing

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeserving½cupheavycreamorfarmercheese¼cupfriedbreadcrumbs(seeGlossaryofIngredients)

Equipment

PotatoricerLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKE THE DOUGH:Place thepotatoes ina smallpot,pour inenoughwater tocoverthem,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmeruntil fork-tender, about 30minutes.Drain andplace thepotatoes on afoldedkitchen towel.Once they’recoolenough tohandle,peeloff their skins,cut them into chunks, and press them through the ricer into a large bowl. Setasidetocooltoroomtemperature.

2.Sprinkle the salt and1cupof the flouronto the ricedpotatoes,keeping theremaining¼cuphandy.Tosswithyourfingersuntilmixedevenly.Addtheeggandworkthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.If thedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.Knead thedoughin thebowlfor1minute.Thedoughwillbesmooth,soft,andsomewhatdelicate.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Combinethesugarandcinnamoninabowl.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Alsohavereadythedoughandtheplums.

5.Pinchoffapieceofdoughaboutthesizeoftheplumsandrollitintoaball.Placeitonaflouredsurfaceandpatitoutintoaflat3½-inchround.Placehalfa

plum, skin side down, in the center of the round. Spoon 1 teaspoon of thecinnamon-sugar into thehollowof theplumand topwith theotherhalfof theplum,cutsidedown.Lifttheedgesofthedoughupandaroundtheplumuntiltheymeetandgentlypinch themenough to seal.Carefullygrip theassembleddumplingbetweenbothpalmsandmold thedoughbypressing andpacking itaroundtheshapeofthefruit.Rollthedumplingbetweenyourpalmstosmoothout its look, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with theremainingdough,plums,andcinnamon-sugar.

6.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Gentlydropinupto10 dumplings. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Simmer until the dumplingsfloattothesurface,2to3minutes,thencookfor3to4minuteslonger.

7.Removethedumplingswithaslottedspoon,placetheminthelargebowl,anddrizzlewith a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking, and keepwarm.Cooktheremainingdumplingsandplacetheminthebowlwithanotherladleofthecookingliquid.

8. Drain the švestkové knedlíky and place them in a shallow serving bowl.Drizzlewiththemeltedbutterandservetoppedwithcreamorfarmercheeseandasprinklingoffriedbreadcrumbs.

Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithPeanutsandSausageZhongZi(China)

SERVES6(MAKES6DUMPLINGS)

Bambooleaf–wrappedzhongziarefirmpackagesofstickyrice,stuffedwithavarietyoffillings,thathavebeenboiledpatientlyforhours.Wrappingandtyingthesedumplingstightlygivesthemtheirdense,satisfyingchew,aswellastheirability to remain fresh for days at room temperature. While they are usuallywrappedexpertlyinapyramidshape,thereisamuchlesscomplicatedfoldthatworksjustaswell.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheBamboo-LeafFold.

FortheDumplings

2cupsmedium-grainsweet(glutinous)whiterice,preferablyfromChinaorJapan,rinsedandsoakedinplentyofwaterfor2to3hours1½tablespoonssalt½poundporkbelly, trimmedofskin,cutinto6equalpieces,rubbedwith1½teaspoonssalt,covered,andrefrigeratedforatleast6hoursandupto1day¾cuprawpeanuts,paperyskinsremoved1linkChineseporksausage(lachang),cutinto6equalpieces(optional)

ForAssembly

20preparedbambooleaves(seeGlossaryofEquipment)Six60-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthezhongzi

ForServing

Soysauce

1.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthezhongzi,reviewtheBamboo-LeafFold.

2.Draintherice,placeitinamediumbowl,andmixinthesalt.

3.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandhavereadythesaltedrice,pork,peanuts,sausage,ifdesired,bambooleaves,andties.

4.Dividethepeanutsinto6equalpiles.

5.Pickoutthebest18bambooleaves.Place2bambooleaves,smoothsideup,lengthwise, and alongside each other, in the palm of your hand. Overlap theleavesbyabout1½ inches.Center3heaping tablespoonsof riceon topof theoverlapped bamboo leaves and spread out into a rectangle 4 inches long by 2inches across or about the size of your palm. Place 1 piece of pork, 1 pile ofpeanuts, and a slice of sausage over the rice and top everythingwith 3moreheapingtablespoonsofrice.Layathirdbambooleaf,smoothsidedown,ontopofthemound.Gripandcurlthesidesoftheoverlappedbottomleavesoverthetopleaf.Foldbackthetopendsoftheleaves.Thenfoldbackthebottomendsoftheleavesasfirmlyasyoucantocreateaneat,tightrectangularpackage.Wrapand tie thepackage4or5 timesacross thewidthof thedumplingandat leastoncevertically toprevent the leaves fromunfolding.Place thepackageon thelargeplateortrayandcontinueuntilyouhave6packages.

6.COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Stackthepackagesasevenlyaspossible ina largepotandfillwithenoughwater tocover.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheat tomedium,cover,andsimmerfor2to2½hours.Checkthewater levelevery30minutes and replenish with just enough boiling water to keep the dumplingscovered.

7.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethezhongziwithtongsandplacethemonafoldedkitchentoweltocoolslightly.Cutoffthestrings(unlessyouarefreezingthedumplings)andservewithsoysauce.Theycanalsoremainwrapped and be served later at room temperature. It’s best not to open thepackagestoosoonandtopeelbacktheleavesjustbeforeeatingsothattheystaymoist.Zhongzicanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozen(unopened)forupto6months (seeTips).Reheat theminasteamerpotoruse theSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).Ifreheatingfrozenzhongzi,allowthemtothawbeforesteaming.

October

NO-FUSSPOTATODUMPLINGS

Pyzy(Poland)

SPICEDCARROTPUDDING

(England)

COLLARDGREENSWITHCORNDUMPLINGS

(UnitedStates)

CHICKENPAPRIKAWITHDUMPLINGS

CsirkePaprikasGaluskaval(Hungary)

BEANSOUPWITHTINYDUMPLINGS

Csipetke(Hungary)

CHICKPEA“FISH”INASPICYONIONSAUCE

YeshimbraAsa(Ethiopia)

BACONANDSAGEROLY-POLY

(England)

DAIKONCAKE

LuoBoGao(China)

CHEDDARCHEESEANDPOTATOPIEROGI

(UnitedStates)

LENTILANDONIONPIEROGI

PierogizSoczewic (Poland)

POTATO“TAMALES”STUFFEDWITHCHICKENANDJALAPEÑO

PachesdePapa(Guatemala)

BEEF-STUFFEDPLANTAINBALLSINACASSAVA-CORNSOUP

CaldodeBolas(Ecuador)

No-FussPotatoDumplingsPyzy(Poland)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

Becausetheyaredense,pyzyaretypicallysmallerthanotherpotatodumplings.Their small size ensures that they cook quickly and completely, leaving nouncookedcenters.Rawpotatooxidizesandturnsgrayaftergratingsoyouwillnoticeadeepeninginthecolorofthedoughasit’shandledandrolledintoballs.If thisgraycolordoesnotappeal toyou,knowthat thedumplingswill lightenduring cooking. These sticky dumplings are served smothered in fried breadcrumbs,sautéedonions,orbitsofbacon.

FortheDumplings

3mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset½teaspoonsalt½cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1largeeggyolk

FortheTopping

4stripsbacon,choppedcoarse1smallyellowonion,choppedfineSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Placeoneofthepotatoesinasmallsaucepan,pourinenoughwatertocover,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,

andsimmeruntilfork-tender,about30minutes.Drainandplacethepotatoonafoldedkitchentowel.Onceit’scoolenoughtohandle,peeloffitsskinandputthefleshintoalargebowl.Mashuntilmostlysmooth.

2. Peel the 2 remaining potatoes and finely grate them onto a kitchen towel.Bring together the ends of the cloth and twist to squeeze out asmuch of thepotatojuiceasyoucan.Dothisstepinbatchesifitseemsmoreeffective.

3.Addthegratedpotatotothemashedpotato.Sprinklethesaltand¼cupoftheflouroverthepotato,keepingtheremaining¼cuphandy,andtossgentlywithyourfingersuntilwellcombined.Addtheeggyolk.Usingyourhandsworkthecrumblymixture into a dough, about 2minutes. This dough needs to be firmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifthedoughistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.Coverandrefrigerateuntilyouarereadytorollthedumplings.

4.COOK THE BACON AND THE ONION:Place thebaconinasmallskilletovermediumheatandcook, stirringoccasionally, until it has rendered enough fat to generously coatthebottomofthepan.Mixintheonionandraisetheheattohigh.Cook,stirringfrequently, until both the bacon and the onion are golden brown, about 5minutes. Scoop everything, including the drippings, into a small bowl and setaside.

5.MAKEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

6.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandroll it intoaballabout1 incharound,dust with flour, and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remainingdough.

7.Fillalargepotthree-quartersofthewaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Carefullydropthedumplings,afewatatime,intothewater.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,about2minutes,thencookfor3minuteslonger.

8.Remove thepyzywitha slotted spoonandplace ina shallowservingbowl.Topthemwiththebaconandonionmixtureandallofitsdrippings,sprinklewithsaltandpepper,andserve.

SpicedCarrotPudding

(England)

SERVES4TO5(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Many steamed puddings use a good amount of a particular spice blend calledPudding Spice. This spice mixture works exceptionally well in this carrotpudding.Gratedwhitepotatomimicsthetextureofthegratedcarrotandkeepsthe pudding from getting too sweet. Bread crumbs bind all the ingredientstogetherandgivethepuddingacakeliketexture.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDumpling

1 cup coarse fresh crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary ofIngredients)1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour1/3 cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary ofIngredients)2teaspoonsbakingpowder2teaspoonsPuddingSpice¼teaspoonsalt½ cup very finely chopped cold suet or 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsaltedbutter,frozen,coarselygrated,andkeptcold1mediumbakingpotato,suchasrusset1mediumcarrot½cupdarkraisins1largeegg,beaten

¼cupcoldmilk

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin1recipeVanillaCustardSauceorvanillaicecream

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.MAKE THE BATTER:Combinethebreadcrumbs,flour,sugar,bakingpowder,puddingspice, and salt in a large bowl.Mix in the suet by gently breaking apart anyclumpswhileworkingitthroughthebreadcrumbmixture.Ifusingbutter,workit into the bread crumbmixturewith a pastry cutter or 2 butter knives until itlookslikeadampmeal.

2.Peel thepotatoandgrate it through themediumholesofyourgraterontoakitchen towel.Bring together theendsof theclothand twist tosqueezeoutasmuchofthejuiceasyoucan.Dothisstepinbatchesifitseemsmoreeffective.

3.Peelthecarrotandgrateitthroughthemediumholesofyourgrater.Mixthepotatoandthecarrotintothebreadcrumbmixture.

4.Setaside2handfulsoftheraisinstolinethebottomofthepuddingbasin.Mixtheremainingraisins into thebreadcrumbandcarrotmixture.Mix in theegg.Stirinjustenoughmilk,alittleatatime,tocreateaverymoistbatter.

5. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSetup.

6.Rinsethemuslinandthestringundercoolrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.

7.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

8.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutterandcoatingitwithsugar.Scatterthereservedraisinsaroundthebottomofthebasin.Scoop thebatter into thebasinandsmoothout itssurfaceusingwetfingers.Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter.Cover thebasinwith thedampmuslinandsecure it tightlywith thestring.Tietheoppositecornersofthemuslinintohandlesoverthetopofthepudding.

9.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast1½hours,orupto2½hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavorandtexture.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholdertograsptheclothhandle,carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallow the pudding to cool for 5minutes.Remove the string, cloth, and paper.Unmoldbyinvertingitontoaplate.SliceandservewithVanillaCustardSauceorvanillaicecream.Thepuddingcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

CollardGreenswithCornDumplings

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT16DUMPLINGS)

ThesecornmealdumplingsarenotascreamyasSopadeBolitasdeMasa(April)or as dense asSoupe auxMiques et auxChoux (November), instead they arechewyandbreadlike.Thisdishstartswiththefatfromrenderedsaltpork,butafewstripsofbaconwillflavoreverythingjustaswell.Ifcollardgreensarenotavailable,kaleworksanddoesn’tneedblanching.

FortheStew

2poundscollardgreens¼poundsaltpork,halfleanandhalffat,cutinto4equalpieces¼teaspooncayenne2teaspoonssugar

FortheDumplings

1cupwhitecornmeal¼teaspoonsaltUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

1.MAKETHESTEW:Fillamediumpothalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Removethestalksfromthemiddleofeachcollardleaf,thencuttheleaves

into1-inchribbons.Stirthecutgreensintotheboilingwater,cover,andcookfor2minutes.Drainandsetaside.

2. Place the salt pork in the same pot over medium heat. Cook, stirringoccasionally,untilat least1 tablespoonof fathasmeltedoff thepork,about5minutes.Carefullyremovetheporkwithtongsandplaceonasmallplate.Pourtherenderedfatintoabowlandsetaside.

3.Return thepork to thepot.Mix in thecollardgreens,cayenne,sugar,and3cupswater.Bring to a boil over highheat.Cover, reduce theheat to low, andsimmer for 1½ hours, stirring occasionally. (You can also make the stew inadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

4.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Place½cupwaterinasmallsaucepanandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Measureout¼cupofthecornmealandsetaside.Placetheremainingcornmeal, the salt, and the reserved pork fat in a medium bowl. Meanwhile,place ¾ cup of the cornmeal in a medium heatproof bowl and keep theremaining¼cuphandy.Rubthefatevenlythroughoutthecornmealwithyourfingers.Pourintheboilingwaterandmixwithaforkuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.

5. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any wayuncomfortable,letitcoolforanotherminuteortwo,butkeepinmindthatyouneedtoworkwiththisdoughwhileitisstillvery,verywarm.Kneadthedoughin the bowl until it is smooth and manageable. This dough needs to be firmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifitistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingcornmeal,alittleatatime.

6.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

7.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1¼inchesaround,dust with flour, and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remainingdough.Coverwithaclothandsetaside.

8.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Oncethegreenshavecookedfor1½hours,checkthebrothlevel.Thereshouldbeenoughtocomehalfwayupthegreens.Stirinalittlewaterifneeded.Dropthedumplingsontothesurfaceofthegreens,spacingthemapartevenly. Cover and cook for 30minutes longer. Serve these dumplings with agenerousamountofgreensandapieceofpork.

ChickenPaprikawithDumplingsCsirkePaprikasGaluskaval(Hungary)SERVES4(MAKESABOUT16DUMPLINGS)

Csirkepaprikasgaluskavalisasaucybatchofchickenanddumplingsflavoredwith paprika, tomatoes, and cloves. Unlike Chicken and Dumpling Soup(September), this is an intense dish to which the dumplings bring balance bybreakingup theconcentratedflavors.Browningthechickenaddsa lotofbodyandisacrucialstep.Ifthechickenisbrownedtoolightlyornotatall,thestewwill lose its savory, smoky personality. Csirke paprikas galuskaval is tastyenoughbyitself,butit’softenservedwithpickledvegetables.

FortheStew

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutterOne3-to4-poundchicken,cutintoservingpieces1smallyellowonion,choppedfine3garliccloves,choppedfine1tablespoonsweetpaprika3wholecloves4plumtomatoes,peeled,seeded(seeGlossaryofIngredients),andchoppedfine1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2greenbellpeppers,coredandslicedinto¼-inchrings¼cupsourcream(optional)

FortheDumplings

1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour

1teaspoonsalt1largeegg,beaten2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted

1. MAKE THE STEW:Melt the butter in a large, wide pot overmedium heat. Add thechickenpiecesinonelayeranddonotstiruntiltheundersidesaredarkgoldenbrown,8to10minutes.Turnthechickenpiecesoverandbrowntheotherside,about8minutes longer.Usingaslottedspoonor tongs,move thechicken toaplate,leavingbehindthebutteryfat.Placetheonion,garlic,paprika,andclovesinthepot.Stirfrequentlyuntiltheonionjustbeginstosoften,about4minutes.Mix in the tomatoes, salt, and pepper and scrape up any sticky bits from thebottomofthepotwithawoodenspoon.Ifthereisnotenoughsaucetocoatthebottomofthepot,addnomorethan½cupwater.

2.Returnthechickenpiecesandanydrippingstothepot.Cover,reducetheheatto low, and simmer for 30 minutes, turning the chicken pieces over halfwaythroughthecooking.Theremaynotappeartobeenoughliquid,butthechickenwillreleaseadditionaljuicesasitcooks.

3.Turnthechickenpiecesoveronemoretime,stirinthegreenpeppers,cover,andcookfor10minutes longer.Reduce theheat tovery,very lowtokeep thechickenandsaucehotwhilemakingthedumplings.(Youcanalsomakethestewinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

4.MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Filla largepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

5.Combinetheflourandthesaltinamediumbowl.Addtheegg,meltedbutter,and¾cupwaterandmixwell.Youwillhaveaverymoist,stickydough.

6.Scoopuparoundedteaspoonofdough.Useanotherspoonoryourfingertomove the dough gently off the spoon and into the simmering water. Drop inspoonfuls of the remaining dough, leaving as much space as you can aroundeach.Stirgentlytopreventsticking.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,about2

minutes,thencookfor3minuteslonger.

7.Reserve1cupofthecookingliquid,drainthedumplings,andstirthemgentlyinto the chicken stew. Raise the heat to medium and heat through for 1 to 2minutes. If the stew is too thick, stir in some of the reserved cooking liquid.Removefromtheheat,swirlinthesourcream,ifdesired,andserve.

BeanSoupwithTinyDumplingsCsipetke(Hungary)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT80DUMPLINGS)

Thisdumplingsoupcanmakeuseofwhateveryoumightfindinyourkitchen,but the must-have components are beans, paprika, a zesty topping like sourcreamorvinegar,and,ofcourse,lotsoftinydumplings.Don’tbeintimidatedbythe number of dumplings required for this soup. They are quick tomake andneedonlyberoughlyshaped.Thissouptypicallyusesablendofhotandsweetpaprika.Youcan increase theamountofhotpaprikaforaspiciersoup,oryoucanchoosetouseonlythesweetpaprika.

FortheSoup

4poundsmeatybeefbones,suchasrib,shank,orneck2tablespoonsnonhydrogenatedlardoraneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed1smallyellowonion,choppedfine1tablespoonsweetpaprika1/8to¼teaspoonhotpaprikaorcayenne2tablespoonsunbleachedall-purposeflour½cupdriedspeckledbeans,suchaspintoorspeckleddarkkidney,soakedinplentyofwaterfor6to8hoursor1cupcanned,drainedandrinsed2largecarrots,cutinto1-inchrounds3largeparsnips,cutinto1-inchrounds1greenbellpepper,coredandcutinto½-inchstrips1½teaspoonssalt¼cupsourcream

FortheDumplings

½cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting½teaspoonsalt1largeegg,beaten

1.MAKETHESOUP:Placethebeefbonesinalargepotwith2quartswaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andcookfor1½hours.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.

2. Meanwhile, melt the lard in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add theonion and stir frequentlyuntil soft, about4minutes.Stir in the sweet andhotpaprikaandthe2tablespoonsflourandcookfor2minuteslonger.Scoopintoasmallbowlandsetasidetocool.

3.Oncethebrothhasfinishedcooking,useaslottedspoonortongstomovethebonestoabowltocoolslightly.Addthebeanstothebroth,cover,andsimmerfor20minutes.Addthecarrots,parsnips,greenpepper,1½teaspoonssalt,andthecookedonionmixture.Pulloffanybitsofmeatfromthebones,placeitbackinthebowl,anddiscardthebones.Addthemeatbacktothebroth.Coverandcookuntilthebeansaretender,45to60minuteslonger,dependingonthebeanused. (Ifusingcannedbeans, add them20minutesbefore thevegetableshavefinished cooking.) (You can also make the soup in advance and keep itrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.Ifthesoupistoothicktostireasily,addalittlewatertothinitout.)

4.MAKE THE DOUGH:While thesoupissimmering,place the½cupflour inamediumbowl.Scoopout2tablespoonsoftheflourandsetaside.Mixinthe½teaspoonsalt.Addtheeggandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.Kneadthedoughinthebowlfor4to5minutes,cover,andletitrestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.

5.MAKEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

6.Kneadthedoughonceortwiceonaflouredsurface,shapeitintoaball,thenrollitoutuntilit’sabout1/8 inchthick.Cutthesheetofdoughinhalf.Pickuponehalfandpinchoffsmallpieces,aboutthesizeofadime,andplacetheminonelayeronthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremaininghalf.

7.Move half of the dough pieces onto a plate, slide them into the simmeringsoup, and stir gently to prevent sticking. Using the plate, quickly add theremainingdoughpiecestothesoup,stir,cover,andsimmerforabout5minutes.Removefromtheheatandallowthesouptocoolslightly.Stirinthesourcreamandserve.

Chickpea“Fish”inaSpicyOnionSauceYeshimbraAsa(Ethiopia)

SERVES4(MAKESABOUT36DUMPLINGS)

Thesesimplechickpeaflourdumplingsarebakedfirst,andthen,astheysimmerina thick, spicy sauce, theydevelop theirdistinctively toothsome texture.Thespicesinthedisharefullandheadyandfillthehousewithawonderfullywarmaroma.Someofthespicesandherbsthatgointothisdishmayrequiremorethanone shopping trip, but all of the other ingredients are commonplace. Somespecialty food markets carry premixed packages of berbere spice, which isconvenient if someof the individual ingredientsarenotavailable.Thisdish istraditionally servedwith injera bread, anEthiopian flat breadmade from teff,butyoucanserveitwithyourfavoritesoftflatbread.

FortheDumplings

1cupchickpeaflour,plussomeextrafordusting½teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil

FortheSauce

2largeyellowonions,choppedfine1/3cupgrapeseedorotherneutraloil2freshhotgreenchiles,suchasjalapeñoorAnaheim,seededandchoppedfine4garliccloves,choppedveryfine1tablespoonBerbereSpice(recipefollows)orusestore-bought

1teaspoonsalt½cupredwine(optional)1tablespoontomatopaste

Equipment

Fish-shapedcookiecutterabout1 inch longoranyothercutterabout thatsize

1.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Preheattheovento350°F.

2.Combinethechickpeaflourand½teaspoonsaltinamediumbowl.Addthe2tablespoons oil, pour in ¼ cup water, and mix until all the liquid has beenabsorbed.Kneadthedoughinthebowluntilallthelooseflourhasbeenworkedintothedough.Thedoughwillbesmoothandveryfirmbutstillsoftenoughtoshape.

3. Shape the dough into a ball, place it on awork surface lightly dustedwithchickpeaflour,thenrollitoutuntiljustunder¼inchthick.Sprinklewithalittlechickpea flour if it gets sticky. Using the cookie cutter, cut out asmany fishshapesasyoucan,usually24to30.Combinethescrapsofdough,rollthemout,andcutoutasmanymorechickpeafishasyoucan.

4.Place thechickpea fishonanungreasedbakingsheetandbakeuntilgoldenbrown, about 15 minutes. Once cooked, place them in a bowl and pour inenoughcoldwatertocover.Allowthemtosoakwhileyoumakethesauce,butno longer than 15minutes. (You can bake the chickpea fish up to 1week inadvanceandkeeptheminacool,dryplace.Donotsoaktheminwateruntilyouarereadytocooktheminthesauce.)

5.MAKETHESAUCEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Whilethechickpeafisharesoaking,pulsetheonionsinafoodprocessor4or5timestoreleasetheirjuices,butdon’tpuree.Heatthe1/3cupoilinamediumpotoverhighheat.Addthepulpedonionandthechiles

and stir until themixture is golden brown, 6 to 7minutes.Mix in the garlic,Berbere Spice, and 1 teaspoon salt and cook for 2minutes longer. Stir in thewine,ifdesired,and2cupswaterandbringtoasimmer.Stirinthetomatopaste.Drain the soakedchickpea fish, add them to the sauce, and stirgently tocoat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor15minutes.

6. Uncover the pot, raise the heat to medium, and continue to cook, stirringoccasionally,2to3minutes.Removefromtheheatandserveasisorwithinjerabreadoryourfavoritesoftflatbread.

BERBERESPICEMAKES¼CUP

2teaspoonscuminseeds2teaspoonscaromseeds(ajwain)1teaspoonrueseeds1teaspooncardamonseeds6wholecloves10allspiceberries2tablespoonscrumbledmildlyspicydriedredchile,suchasNewMexican½teaspooncayenne1teaspoongroundginger1tablespoondriedholybasilleaves

Equipment

Cleanspiceorcoffeegrinder

1.Toastthecumin,carom,rue,cardamom,cloves,andallspiceinasmallskilletovermediumheatuntil the seedsare lightlybrowned,about3minutes.Scoopthemixtureintoasmallbowl.

2. In the same skillet, toast the red chile, cayenne, andgroundginger, stirringconstantly,about2minutes.Scoopitintothebowlwiththeothertoastedspicesandallowtocool.

3. Place the cooled spicemixture and the holy basil in the spice grinder andprocess into a fine powder. Measure out what is needed for the recipe andrefrigeratetherestinatightlysealedglasscontainerforupto6months.

If substituting ground spices, combine the following amounts in a skilletover medium heat. Toast, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes. Scoopimmediatelyintoabowltocool.Measureoutwhatisneededfortherecipeand

followthestorageinstructionsabove.

2teaspoonsgroundcumin2teaspoonsgroundcaromseeds(ajwain)1teaspoonruepowder1teaspoongroundcardamom¼teaspoongroundcloves¾teaspoongroundallspice2tablespoonscrumbledmildlyspicydriedredchiles,suchasNewMexican½teaspooncayenne1teaspoongroundginger1tablespoondriedholybasilleaves

BaconandSageRoly-Poly

(England)

SERVES4(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Thisisadumplingforbaconlovers.Asheetofsoftdough,coveredwithalayerof chewy back bacon, leeks, and sage, is rolled up and steamed.Back bacon,taken from the loin of the pig, is much leaner. The leeks add an aromaticlightness and moisture. Served with mustard or spiked with steak sauce, thisdumplingisagoodsidewithbeeforvegetables.

ThisdumplingismadeusingtheJelly-RollShapeandthenwrappedusingtheCandy-WrapperShapeUsingaCloth.

FortheDough

2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1tablespoonbakingpowder½teaspoonsalt½ cup very finely chopped cold suet or 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsaltedbutter,frozen,coarselygrated,andkeptcold¾cupcoldwater

FortheFilling

¾pound raw back bacon (Irish bacon) or raw brine-cured ham, choppedcoarse2mediumleeks,whiteandlightgreenpartsonly,rinsedcleanandchopped

fine¼cupcoarselychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves25freshsageleaves,cutcrosswiseintothinribbons½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

ForCooking

Unsaltedbuttertocoatthemuslin

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslinorwhitecottonnapkinTwo5-inchandone20-inchlengthsofkitchenstring16-inchroastingpanwithacover1or2racksatleast1inchhigh,smallenoughtofitintotheroastingpanbutlargeenoughtosupportthe14-inchroly-poly

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Measureout¼cupoftheflourandsetaside.Placetheremainingflour,thebakingpowder,andsaltinalargebowlandmixwell.Mixinthesuet,gentlybreakingapartanyclumpswhileworkingitthroughtheflourmixture.Ifusingbutter,workit intotheflourusingapastrycutteror2butterknivesuntilthemixturelookslikeadamp,coarsemeal.

2. Drizzle in the cold water and work the dough with your hands into onemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.Kneadthedoughinthebowlforabout1minute.Coverandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

3. ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLING:Before assembling the bacon and sage roly-poly, review theJelly-RollShapeandtheCandy-WrapperShapeUsingaCloth.

4.Combineallthefillingingredientsinabowl.

5.Soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,wringitout,andsetitaside.

6.Placethechilleddoughonaflouredsurface.Shapethedoughintoabluntlog.Rollitoutintoa9×14-inchrectangleabout1/8inchthick.Sprinklewithflourifit gets sticky. Scatter the fillingmixture over the top of the dough, leaving anarrowborderonallsides.Startingwithoneofthelongersides,begintorollupthedough,pinchingtheendstosealasyougo.Pinchandpressthefaredgeofthedoughalongthelengthofthelogtoseal.

7. Spread out the muslin on a flat surface and rub it generously with butter,leavinganarrowborderonallsides.Placethelog,seamsidedown,alongoneedgeofthepreparedmuslin.Rolluptheloginthemuslin.Themuslinshouldbeslightlybaggysothelogcanswellwhileitcooks.Tiethe2openendswiththeshorterstrings,thentiethelongerstringaroundthebodyofthewrappedlogtosecuretheseam.Onceit’sbeenwrappedandtied,placeitonalargeplateandrefrigeratefor15minutes.(Youcanalsoassemblethedumplinginadvanceandkeepittightlywrappedintherefrigeratorforupto8hours.)

8. STEAM THE DUMPLING: Place one rack or both racks in the roasting pan and pour inenoughwatertocomeupjustbelowtherungs.Placeover2burnersandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Placethewrappedlogontherack.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsteamfor2hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

9.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyliftthebaconandsageroly-polyoutof the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow it to drain and coolslightly.Removethestrings,unwrap,slice,andserve.

DaikonCakeLuoBoGao(China)

SERVES6TO8(MAKES2DUMPLINGS)

Luobogao is a dim sumdishmadewith daikon, orwinter radish.Daikon isjuicylikeanapple,isshapedlikealargewhitecarrot,andhasasmoothradishflavor.Tomakethebatterforluobogaoyouneedtocookthedaikon,breakitdown,andmellowoutitsflavorwhileconcentratingitsessence.Youcaneatthisdumplingfreshfromthesteamer,butit’smostpopularslicedandlightlysearedforacrispyskin.

FortheDumplings

2cupswhitericeflour,preferablyfromChinaorThailand¼cupwheatstarch1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper10to12smallormediumdriedshrimp,soakedinhotwatertocoverfor30minutes1pounddaikonradish1linkChineseporksausage(lachang),choppedveryfine(about2/3cup)3scallions,choppedfine

ForCookingandServing

GrapeseedorotherneutraloiltocoatthecakepansandtheskilletOystersauceorhotsauce

Equipment

2-inch-highsteamerrackTwo9-inchroundcakepansPotlargeenoughtoholdboththerackandcakepanwhencovered

1.MAKE THE BATTER:Combine the rice flour,wheat starch, salt, andpepper in a largebowlandsetaside.Drainandfinelychoptheshrimp.

2. Peel the daikon and grate it through the small holes of your grater onto akitchen towel.Bring together theendsof theclothand twist tosqueezeoutasmuch liquid asyoucan into abowl.Measureout the collected juices and addenoughwatertothejuicetomake3½cups.

3.Pour thedaikon juiceandwatermixture intoamediumpot.Add thegrateddaikon and bring to a boil over high heat.Cover, reduce the heat to low, andsimmerfor5minutes.Mixinthesausage,scallions,andchoppedshrimp,cover,andcookfor5minuteslonger.Removefromtheheat.Slowlyaddthericeflourmixtureandwhiskcontinuouslyuntil freeofmost large lumps.Thebatterwillbethickandstickyandalittlelumpy.

4.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Placethesteamerrackinthepot,add1½inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.

5.Brushbothcakepanswithalittleoilanddividethebatterbetweenthe2pans.Dip a spoon into coolwater and use the back of the spoon to smooth out thesurfaceofthebatter.

6.Carefullyplaceoneofthefilledpansonthesteamerrack,cover,andsteamfor40 minutes. The other filled pan should be covered and left sitting at roomtemperature while the first one cooks, or it can be cooked simultaneously inanotherpot.

7.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyliftthepanoutofthepot,placeitona foldedkitchen towel,andallow the luobogao tocool to room temperature.Repeatwiththeotherfilledcakepan.

8. Unmold the luo bo gao and gently turn it onto a cutting board. Cut eachdumplinginto8equalslices.(Donotslicetheluobogaoifyouareplanningonservingitlater.Theycanberefrigerated,tightlywrapped,forupto3days.Sliceandfryjustbeforeserving.)

9.Whenreadytoserve,coatalargeskilletwithoilandheatovermediumheat.Carefullyplacetheslicesofluobogaointhepanandcookuntiltheirbottomsare crispy and golden brown, about 4 minutes. Turn them over to brown theothersides.Servewithasideofoystersauceorhotsauce.

CheddarCheeseandPotatoPierogi

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

The combination of potato andCheddar has been a popular pierogi filling forgenerations, especially in the Great Lakes region. Extra-sharp Cheddar is thetypeusedhere,butanyothertype,exceptmild,willworkjustaswell.Likeothertime-honoredpierogirecipes,thisoneincludescaramelizedonioninthefilling.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheHalf-MoonFold.

FortheFilling

2mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset2tablespoonsunsaltedbutterorbaconfat1smallyellowonion,choppedfine¼poundextra-sharpCheddarcheese,gratedcoarse(about1heapingcup)1largeeggyolk1teaspoonsalt(omitifusingbaconfat)½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheDough

1recipePierogizKasz Gryczan dough,preferablymadenomorethan2hoursinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

ForServing*

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeserving½cupsourcream¼cupfinelychoppedfreshchives

Equipment

2½-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKE THE FILLING:Placethepotatoesinasmallpot,pourinenoughwatertocover,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmeruntil fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain the potatoes and place them on afoldedkitchentowel.Oncetheyarecoolenoughtohandle,peelofftheirskins,placethefleshinalargebowl,andmashuntilmostlysmooth.

2.Meltthe2tablespoonsbutterinamediumskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonion and stir frequently until golden brown, about 8minutes.Mix the onionintothemashedpotatoesandsetasidetocool.

3. Add the Cheddar cheese, egg yolk, salt, and pepper to the cooled potatomixtureandmixwell.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthepierogi,reviewtheHalf-MoonFold.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

6.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,thenset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaballandroll itoutuntil it’sabout1/8 inchthick.Sprinklewithflourif it

getssticky.

7.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually8to10.Collect all scraps from around the rounds and put them aside under a dampkitchentowelforlateruse.

8.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedteaspoonoffillingontopofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.Combineallthedoughscraps,kneadthemintoaball,rollitout,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,andfillandfoldthosetoo.

9.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

10.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringittoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

11.Gentlydropupto20dumplings,afewatatime,intothesimmeringwater.Stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3minutes, then cook for 2minutes longer. (If cooking frozenpierogi, add themdirectlytothesimmeringwaterandincreasethecookingtimeby1minute.Donotallowthepierogitothawbeforecooking.)

12.Remove thedumplingswithaslottedspoon,place themin the largebowl,and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook theremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the

cookingliquid.

13.Drain thepierogiandplace them ina large, shallowservingbowl.Drizzlethedumplingswithmeltedbutter,spoonsourcreamoverthetop,sprinklewithchives,andserve.

LentilandOnionPierogiPierogizSoczewic (Poland)SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT40DUMPLINGS)

Ifyou’venevermadepierogibefore,thisisagreatrecipeforbeginners.Pierogizsoczewiçaareonthesmallside,andthefillingiseasytoworkwith.Ifyoulikethe idea of lentils as a filling, Ravioli di Zucca e Lenticchie (November) isanotherrecipethatusesthembrilliantly.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheHalf-MoonFold.

FortheFilling

½cupdriedgreenlentils,rinsed4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks1largeyellowonion,choppedfine½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheDough

1recipePierogizKasz Gryczan (KashaandMushroomPierogi)dough,preferablymadenomorethan2hoursinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

ForServing*

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeservingSourcream

½cupfriedbreadcrumbs(seeGlossaryofIngredients)

Equipment

2½-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKE THE FILLING:Fillasmallpothalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Addthelentils,cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntilthelentilsare soft and starting to break apart, about 45minutes.Drain the lentils over abowl so you can reserve ½ cup of the cooking liquid. Place the lentils in amediumbowlandmashthemasroughlyorasfinelyasyoulike.Setasideandallowthemtocooltoroomtemperature.

2.Melt the butter in a large skillet overmediumheat.Add the onion and stirfrequentlyuntilgoldenbrown,about8minutes.Mixinthemashedlentils,salt,andpepperandstirfor2to3minuteslonger.Drizzleinalittleofthereservedcookingliquidifthemixturebeginstosticktothebottomofthepan.Don’taddmorecookingliquidthanyouneed,becausethemixtureshouldbethickenoughtoholditsshapewhenscoopedupwithaspoon.Removefromtheheat,scoopbackintothebowl,andsetasidetocool.

3.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthepierogi,reviewtheHalf-MoonFold.

4. Line a traywith a kitchen towel and sprinklewith a little flour.Also havereadythedoughandthefilling.

5.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,thenset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaball,androllitoutuntilit’sabout1/8inchthick.Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.

6.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually8to10.Collectallthescrapsfromaroundtheroundsandputthemasideunderadampkitchentowelforlateruse.

7.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Placearoundedteaspoonoffillinginthecenter of each round, fold each round neatly in half, pushing out any air, andpinchtoseal.Dabalittlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.Placetheassembleddumplings ina single layeron theprepared trayandkeep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.Combineallthedoughscraps,kneadthemintoaball,rollitout,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,andfillandfoldthosetoo.

8.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

9.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

10.Gentlydropupto20dumplings,afewatatime,intothesimmeringwater.Stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3minutes, then cook for 2minutes longer. (If cooking frozenpierogi, add themdirectlytothesimmeringwaterandincreasethecookingtimeby1minute.Donotallowthepierogitothawbeforecooking.)

11.Usingaslottedspoon,removethedumplings,placetheminthelargebowl,and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook theremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquid.

12.Drain thepierogiandplace them ina large, shallowservingbowl.Drizzlethedumplingswithmeltedbutter,spoonsourcreamoverthetop,sprinklewithfriedbreadcrumbs,andserve.

Potato“Tamales”StuffedwithChickenandJalapeñoPachesdePapa(Guatemala)

SERVES4TO8(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

Mixing mashed potatoes into a batch of highly flavored masa harina battercreatesanextraordinarybackgroundforchicken.Thesedumplingsrequireafairamount ofwork, but they’re awholemeal in onepackage, and awonderfullymemorableoneat that.Because thepotato-masabatter ismadewitha roastedtomatillo, tomato, and jalapeño sauce, the chicken needs nothingmore than alittlesaltbeforebeingstuffed—withsomeadditionalchiles—intosmallmoundsofthebatter.

These dumplings arewrapped using theEnvelopeFold, but you can alsousetheDiamondintheSquareFoldifyourbananaleavesarebrittleortorn.

FortheSauce

6tomatillos,paperyhusksremovedandfruitrinsed3plumtomatoes1smallredbellpepper2jalapeñochiles1driedchipotlechile,toastedandfinelyground1teaspoonachiote(annatto)powder½teaspoonsalt

FortheBatter

2mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset1½cupsmasaharina

1teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsnonhydrogenatedlardoraneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed½cupwarmwater

FortheFilling

2boneless, skinlesschickenbreastsor thighs,cut into8equalpiecesandsprinkledwith½teaspoonsalt4jalapeñochiles,cored,cutinhalflengthwise,andseeded

ForAssembly

Twelve10-inchpreparedbanana-leafsquares(seeGlossaryofEquipment)Eight24-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthepaches

Equipment

Electrichandmixer8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1.MAKETHESAUCE:Preheattheovento400°F.

2.Pokeasmallholewithaknife intoeach tomatillo, tomato,bellpepper,andbothofthejalapeñosandplacethemonanungreasedbakingsheet.Roastuntilsoft and charred in spots, about 20 minutes. Once they are cool enough tohandle, pick or rub off as best you can the patches of charred skin. Trim thetomatillos,tomatoes,andpeppersoftheirtougherstemends.Forlessheat,coreandseedthejalapeños.

3.Pulsealltheroastedingredientsinafoodprocessoruntilthemixtureispulpyandmostly smooth.Add thegroundchipotle, achiotepowder, and½ teaspoonsalt and pulse 2 or 3 times to combine.Youwill have about 2 cups of sauce.

(Youcanmakethesauceinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

4.MAKE THE BATTER:Placethepotatoes inasmallpot,pour inenoughwater tocover,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmeruntil fork-tender, about 30minutes.Drain andplace themon a folded kitchentowel.Oncetheyarecoolenoughtohandle,peelofftheirskinsandputthefleshintoamediumbowl.Mashthepotatoesintosmallchunksandsetaside.

5.Place themasaharina,1 teaspoon salt, and1½cupsof the sauce ina largebowl.Whipwiththehandmixeratmediumspeeduntilcombined.Addthelard,raisethemixingspeedtohigh,andcontinuetowhipuntilthebatterisverylightandfluffy,about10minutes.Scrapedownthesidesasyougo.Ifthebatterisdryandseparatingintocrumbs,addsomeofthewarmwater,onespoonfulatatime,andwhipuntilthemixtureissmoothandeven.Addthechunkymashedpotatoesandfolduntilwellmixed.

6. ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS:Beforeassembling the paches de papa, review theEnvelopeFold.

7.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandhavereadythechicken,halvedjalapeños,batter,remainingsauce,banana-leafsquares,andties.

8. Pick out the best 8 leaf squares. Lay flat 1 square, smooth side up. Put 2roundedtablespoonsofthebatterinthecenterofthesquareandspreadoutintoarectangleabout3×5inches.Arrangeapieceofchickenandajalapeñohalfontop of the batter, then drizzle with a tablespoon of sauce. Top with anotherroundedtablespoonofthebatter.Foldoveroneside.Foldovertheoppositeside.Foldtheendsoftheleafoverastightlyasyoucantocreateaneatpackage.Tiethepackageinacrisscrosspatterntopreventtheleaffromunfoldingandplaceitonthelinedtray.Repeatuntilyouhave8packages.

9.STEAMTHEDUMPLINGS:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepot,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Meanwhile,arrangethepackages

upright,leaningorlooselywedgedagainsteachotherinthebasket.Ballupandstickinacoupleofextraleafsquaresorparchmentpapertokeepthemproppedupifneeded.Blanketthemwiththeremainingbananaleaves.Placethebasketinthepot,cover, reduce theheat tomedium,andsteamfor1½hours.Check thewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafolded kitchen towel. Let thepachesdepapa cool slightly, cut off the stringsunless you are freezing the dumplings, and serve. It’s best not to open thepackagestoosoonandtopeelbacktheleavesjustbeforeeating,sothattheystaymoistandwarm.Keepanyextrapachesdepaparefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozen(unopened)forupto6months.ReheattheminasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup (Tips). If reheating frozenpachesdepapa, allow them tothawbeforesteaming.

Beef-StuffedPlantainBallsinaCassava-CornSoupCaldodeBolas(Ecuador)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT12DUMPLINGS)

Caldodebolas is an extremely rich dumpling soup that glows because of theaddition of achiote or annatto, small red seeds that are known for their vividcolor. These plantain dumplings, stuffed with ground beef and raisins, are apleasuretobiteinto,buttheyarejustasgoodbrokenapartinthesoup.Ittakespracticetohandleplantaindoughdeftly,becauseitisrathersoftandsticky,butthelargesizeofthesedumplingsmakestheprocessabiteasier.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBowlFold.

FortheSoup

4poundsmeatybeefbones,suchasrib,shank,orneck2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1smallyellowonion,choppedfine1greenbellpepper,coredandchoppedfine½teaspoonachiotepowder(annatto)6plumtomatoes,peeled,seeded(seeGlossaryofIngredients),andchoppedfine2 pounds cassava, prepared (seeGlossary of Ingredients) and cut into 2-inchchunks2earsofcorn,cutinto1-inchrounds2teaspoonssalt1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheFilling

2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil¼poundgroundbeef2tablespoonsraisins1smallyellowonion,choppedfine1greenbellpepper,coredandchoppedfine1smallcarrot,choppedfine½teaspoonachiotepowder(annatto)½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2largehard-boiledeggs,peeledandeachcutinto6pieces

FortheDough

3ripeplantains(skinsshouldbeyellowwithsomeblackspots)¼teaspoonsaltUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

1.MAKETHESOUP:Placethebonesand3quartswaterinalargepotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor2hours.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.(Youcanalsomakethisbrothinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

2.MAKE THE FILLING:While the broth is simmering, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in amediumskilletovermediumheat.Addthegroundbeefandstir,breakingupanyclumpsasthebeefbeginstobrown.Addtheraisinsandcookuntiltheybegintoplumpupabitandthebeefisgoldenbrown,about3minutes.Removefromtheheat,scoopintoabowl,andsetaside.

3.Heat the remaining tablespoonofoil in the same skillet and add theonion,greenpepper,carrot,andachiote.Stiroccasionallyuntiltheonionissoft,about4minutes.Stirinthebeefmixture,the½teaspoonsalt,andthe¼teaspoonpepperandcookfor3minuteslonger.Removefromtheheat,scoopthemixtureintoabowl,andallowittocooltoroomtemperature.

4.MAKE THE DOUGH: Peel the plantains, add themwhole to the simmering broth, andcookfor3minutes.Immediatelyremovethemwithaslottedspoonandputthemin a large bowl, add the ¼ teaspoon salt, and mash until slightly lumpy butevenlytextured.Shapethemashedplantainintoonemanageableball.Workinalittlewaterif theplantainball iscrumbly,oralittleall-purposeflourif it’s toostickytohandle.Returntothebowl,cover,andsetaside.

5.FINISHTHESOUP:Heattheoilinamediumskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonion,green pepper, and achiote. Stir occasionally until the onion is soft, about 4minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for 2 minutes longer. Remove from theheat,scoopintoabowl,andsetaside.

6.Oncethesouphascookedfor2hours,removethebonesusingaslottedspoonor tongs and discard. Return the heat to medium, stir in the cassava, corn, 2teaspoonssalt,1teaspoonpepper,andthecookedonionmixture,andsimmerfor15minuteslonger.Reducetheheattovery,verylowtokeepthesouphotwhileassemblingthedumplings.

7.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthedumplingsforcaldodebolas,reviewtheBowlFold.

8.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedough,beeffilling,andeggs.

9.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1½inchesaround.Useyourthumbstoshapetheballintoabowlabout1½inchesdeep.Thiswillbeawidebowl that isbest supported in thepalmofyourhand.Sprinklewithflourifitgetsalittlesticky.Placeaheapingteaspoonofthebeeffillingandoneeggpieceintothecenterofthedoughbowl.Closebypushingandpinchingtheedges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded,pushingout any air.Dab a littlewater along the edges, if needed, for a betterseal.Rerollintoaball,dustwithflour,andplaceonthepreparedtray.Continuewiththeremainingdough,filling,andeggs.

10.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Bringthesoupbacktoasimmerovermediumheat.Carefullylower the dumplings, one by one, into the soup. Cook uncovered until thedumplings float to the top of the soup, about 10 minutes. Cover, cook for 2minuteslonger,andserve.

November

DUMPLINGSANDCOCKY’SJOY

(Australia)

“NAPKIN”BREADDUMPLING

Serviettenkloss(Germany)

TURKEYSTEWWITHSTUFFINGDUMPLINGS

(UnitedStates)

CRANBERRYPUDDING

(UnitedStates)

LORDRANDALL’SPUDDING,ANAPRICOTDESSERT

(England)

STICKYTOFFEEPUDDING

(England)

POTATODUMPLINGSWITHCROUTONCENTERS

Kartoffelklösse(Germany)

COUNTRYCABBAGESOUPWITHLARGECORNMEALDUMPLINGS

SoupeauxMiquesetauxChoux(France)

PHILADELPHIAPEPPERPOTSOUPWITHDUMPLINGS

(UnitedStates)

LARGEBEEF-ANDSPINACH-FILLEDDUMPLINGSINABEEFBROTH

Maultaschen(Germany)

DUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHPEARS,FIGS,ANDCHOCOLATE

CialzonsallaFrutta(Italy)

PUMPKINANDLENTILRAVIOLIWITHBROWNEDBUTTERANDROSEMARY

RaviolidiZuccaeLenticchie(Italy)

“LITTLEEAR”DUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITHMUSHROOMSINABEETSOUP

BorshchzVushka(Russia)

DumplingsandCocky’sJoy

(Australia)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT12DUMPLINGS)

Sometimes called “Dampers and Cocky’s Joy,” these ridiculously gooddumplings are like glazed doughnutsminus the frying. Big spoonfuls of soft,eggy dough are cooked in a pot of sugar syrup known as Cocky’s Joy, anaffectionate term for golden syrup.A similarlywonderful dumpling dish fromCanada, grand-père, is made with maple syrup, but we think that the deepcarameltasteofthegoldensyrupandmuscovadosugarisoutstanding.

FortheSyrup

½cupgoldensyrup½ cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary ofIngredients)4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks

FortheDumplings

1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour2teaspoonsbakingpowder1tablespoonsugar¼teaspoonsalt4tablespoons(½stick)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintobits2largeeggs

¼cupmilk

Equipment

Large,widepotorskilletwithacover

1.MAKE THE SYRUP: Pour 1½ cupswater into the large pot. Stir in the golden syrup,muscovadosugar,andbutterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattovery,verylowandcovertokeepthesyruphotwhileyoumakethebatter.

2.MAKE THE BATTER:Combine the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt in amediumbowl.Addthebutterandworkitintotheflourmixturewithapastrycutteror2butterknivesuntilthemixturelookslikeacoarse,dampmeal.

3.Whisktheeggsandmilktogetherinsmallbowl.Pourtheeggmixtureintotheflour mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed and you have athick,slightly lumpybatter.Donotovermix.Thisbattershouldnotsitaround.Oncemixed,itshouldbedroppedimmediatelyintothesyrup.

4.COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Scoopupaheapingtablespoonofbatter.Useanotherspoonoryourfingertomovethebattergentlyoffthespoonandintothesyrup.Dropinspoonfuls of the remaining batter, leaving as much space as you can aroundeach.Youwill get 10 to 12 dumplings. Cover, raise the heat tomedium, andcookfor10minutes.Uncoverandcookfor5minuteslonger.

5. Carefully scoop up the dumplings with a slotted spoon and serve with agenerous helping of the hot syrup. These dumplings are great as is or toppedwithvanillaicecream.

“Napkin”BreadDumplingServiettenkloss(Germany)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES1LARGEDUMPLING)

Serviettenkloss is a rich bread dumpling cooked in the shape of a log.Traditionallywrappedupinanapkinoracloth,itcanbeopenedatthetableandtornfromatwill.Ifyouletitcoolabit,itwillstiffenupandbeeasiertosliceintonice-lookingrounds.Thisdumplingisagreatwaytocreateafreshsidedishoutofday-oldbreadandisespeciallywonderfulwhenservedupwithanythingsauceladen.

ThisdumplingiswrappedusingthePuddingBagFold.

FortheDumpling

6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter,cutinto6equalpieces1mediumyellowonion,choppedcoarse9cups1-inchcrustlesswhitebreadcubes(seeGlossaryofIngredients)6largeeggs½cupmilk2teaspoonssalt2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves

ForCooking

Unsaltedbuttertocoatthemuslin

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslinorawhitecottonnapkinOne10-inchlengthofkitchenstring

1.MAKETHEBREADMIXTURE:Melt2tablespoonsofthebutterinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Add the onion and stir frequently until soft, about 4minutes. Scoop theonion into a large bowl.Melt another 2 tablespoons of the butter in the sameskillet, addhalf of thebread cubes, and toss and stir until all sides are lightlybrowned, 7 to 8minutes.Add them to the onion.Brown the remaining breadcubeswith the last 2 tablespoons of butter, add them to the onion, and allowthemtocoolslightly.

2.Inanotherbowl,whisktogethertheeggs,milk,andsalt.Pourtheeggmixtureoverthebreadcubesandonion,andaddtheparsley.Usingyourhands,tossandturn themixtureuntil all of thebreadhasbeencoatedand theonion ismixedthroughout.Coverandrefrigeratefor45minutes.

3. Firmlygather andpack thebreadmixture into a ball.Work in a littlemoremilkorwaterifitisnotstickingtogether.

4. ASSEMBLE AND COOK THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the serviettenkloss, review thePuddingBagFold.

5.Fillalarge,deeppothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

6.Meanwhile,soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,wringitout,andspreaditout on a flat surface.Rub one side of the dampmuslinwith butter, leaving anarrow border on all sides. Center the bread cube ball on top of the muslin.Gatherupthecornersofthemuslinandarrangethefoldsneatly,creatingabag.Asyoucollectthemuslinandprepareitfortying,leaveitslightlybaggysothatthedumplingcanswellasitcooks.Becertain,however,togripthemuslinlowenoughtoleavenoopengaps.Tiethegatheredmuslintightly.

7.Carefully lower thewrappeddumpling into thesimmeringwater,cover,andcookfor35minutes.

8.RemovetheServiettenklosswithtongs,placeitonafoldedkitchentowel,andallow it to drain and cool slightly. Remove the string, carefully unwrap thedumpling,andplaceitonacuttingboard.Ifthereisnonaturallyflatside,steadythe dumplingwith a fork and slice off just enough from any side to create a“foot,”makingitpossibleforittositonaplatesteadily.Servewarmwithyourfavoritemeaty stewor sauce.Use forks to tear thedumpling into serving-sizeportions.Serviettenklosscanbekepttightlywrappedintherefrigeratorforupto3days.

TurkeyStewwithStuffingDumplings

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4(MAKES8DUMPLINGS)

Thisfast,deliciousrecipetakesleftoversfromatypicalThanksgivingdinnerandturnsthemintoavibrantandplentifulstew.Thedumplings,madefrombread-based stuffing, are themain attraction in this dish. If you don’t have enoughstuffing left over, you canmake up the difference with bread cubes or breadcrumbs.Betteryet,plantomakeextrastuffingthedaybefore,becausethisdishmayevenoutshinetheimpressivemealfromthepreviousnight.

FortheDumplings

2cupscooked(breadorcornbread)stuffing1largeegg,beaten½cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting

FortheStew

2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1smallyellowonion,choppedfine1garlicclove,choppedfine2tablespoonsunbleachedall-purposeflour3cupsChickenBroth3cupsbite-sizedpiecesofcookedturkey2 pounds sweet potatoes, pumpkin, squash, or a combination, peeled and

cutinto1-inchchunks(about4cups)1teaspoontomatopaste½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper6freshsageleaves,slicedcrosswiseintothinribbons

1.MAKE THE DOUGH:Place the stuffing ina largebowlandbreak itup into loosebitswithyourfingers.Addtheeggand¼cupoftheflour,keepingtheremaining¼cuphandy, andmixwell, being careful not to squish the stuffing into apaste.Thismixtureneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifit is too soft or sticky,work in someof the remaining flour, a little at a time.Coverandrefrigeratefor15minutes.

2.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

3.Dividethedoughinto8equalpieces.Rolleachpieceintoaball,dustitlightlywithflour,andplaceonthepreparedtray.

4.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillamediumpothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Gentlydropthedumplings,onebyone,intothewater.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,2to3minutes,thencookfor2minuteslonger.

5.Usingaslottedspoon,removethedumplings,placetheminalargebowl,anddrizzlewithaladleofthecookingliquidtopreventsticking.

6.MAKETHESTEW:Heattheoilinalarge,widepotovermediumheat.Addtheonionand stir frequently until just soft, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and the 2tablespoonsflourandstiruntilthemixtureisgoldenbrown,about5minutes.

7.Pourinthebroth,scrapeupanystickybitsfromthebottomofthepotwithawoodenspoon,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Stirintheturkeymeat,sweetpotatoes, tomato paste, salt, and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and

simmerfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.

8. Uncover and arrange the dumplings evenly on top of the stew. Cover andsimmerfor5minuteslonger.Removethepotfromtheheat,stirinthesage,andserve.

CranberryPudding

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES1DUMPLING)

A good cranberry pudding is moist and dense, with plenty of tart, juicycranberries.Molasses iswhatgives thispuddingitsdarkchocolatecolorandasubtlecaramelflavor.ServeitwithaspoonfulofCaramelSauceorsavesomeforthenextdaytoenjoywithahotcupofteaorcoffee.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheSweetenedCranberries

¼cupfreshorangejuice¼ cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary ofIngredients)1¾cupsfreshorfrozencranberries¼teaspoongroundcinnamon

FortheBatter

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1/3 cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary ofIngredients)2largeeggs,plus1largeeggyolk,atroomtemperature1tablespoonmolasses1teaspoongratedorangezest

¾cupunbleachedall-purposeflour½teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonbakingsoda¼teaspoonsalt

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin1recipeCaramelSauce(recipefollows)orpowderedsugar

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1. PREPARE THE CRANBERRIES: Pour the orange juice into a small pot, mix in the ¼ cupmuscovadosugar,thecranberries,andthecinnamonandbringtoasimmerovermedium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until about half of the cranberriesburstopen, about4minutes.Remove from theheat, scoop theberries and thejuiceintoasmallbowl,andsetasidetocool.

2.MAKE THE BATTER:Placethebutterandthe1/3cupmuscovadosugarinalargebowlandwhiskuntilmostof the sugarhasdissolved.Whisk in the eggs, eggyolk,molasses,andorangezestuntilthemixtureissmoothandfrothy,3to4minutes.

3.Combinetheflour,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsaltinamediumbowl.

4. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSetup.

5.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.Havereadytheeggmixture,flourmixture,andthecranberries.

6.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

7.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutter and coating it with sugar. Scatter ½ cup of the cranberries around thebottomofthebasin.Mixtherestofthecranberriesandalloftheirjuicesintotheeggmixture.Foldtheflourmixtureintotheeggandcranberrymixture.Donotovermix.Scoopthebatterintothebasinandwiggleitgentlytolevelitoff.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthebatter.Coverthebasinwith the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the oppositecornersofthemuslinintohandlesoverthetopofthepudding.

8.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast1½hours,orupto2½hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavorandtexture.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

9.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholder tograsptheclothhandle,carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallow the pudding to cool for 5minutes.Remove the string, cloth, and paper.Unmoldby inverting it onto a plate.Slice and servewithCaramelSauceor adusting of powdered sugar. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

CARAMELSAUCEMAKESABOUT1CUP

1cupsugar½teaspoonfreshlemonjuice¾cupheavycream2tablespoonsdarkrum(optional)

1.Combinethesugar,½cupwater,andthelemonjuiceinasmallpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Continue toboilwithout stirringuntil thesyrup turnslight amber in color, about10minutes.Meanwhile, heat theheavycream in asmall saucepanoverhighheat.Stircontinuouslyuntil thecreamjustbegins tobubblealongthesidesofthepot.

2.Oncethesyrupturnslightamberincolor,reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilthesyrupdarkenstoagoldenambercolor,about1minutelonger.(Ifusinga candy thermometer, the temperature of the syrup should be around 340°F.)Immediatelyremovefromtheheatandsetasidetocoolslightly.Whiskthesyrupvigorously while you drizzle in the hot cream. The sauce may bubble andsplatteratfirstbutwillsettleoncesomeofthecreamhasbeenadded.Continuetowhiskuntilallthecreamisaddedandyouhaveathick,smoothsauce.Stirintherum,ifdesired,andservewarm.Youcanalsomakethesauceupto3daysinadvanceandkeep it refrigerated ina tightlysealedcontainer.Reheat thesauceovermediumheatuntilwarm,stirringconstantly.

LordRandall’sPudding,anApricotDessert

(England)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Thisisamoistapricotandorangepuddingthatistangyandsweet.Aswithalldriedfruits,itisbesttobuyall-naturaldriedapricotsthatarefirmanddark.Theonespreservedwith sulfurdioxideare too soft, and their flavors seem tomeltawayduringcooking.Youcanfindall-naturaldriedapricotsathealthfoodstoresandspecialtyshops.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDumpling

¾cupunbleachedall-purposeflour½teaspoonbakingsoda¼teaspoonbakingpowderPinchofsalt6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature½ cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary ofIngredients)1largeegg,beaten3tablespoonsmilk½cuporangemarmalade,preferablydark½cupall-naturalunsweeteneddriedapricots,choppedfine

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin½cuphoney,preferablyraw,ororangemarmaladeforserving

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.MAKETHEBATTER:Combinetheflour,bakingsoda,bakingpowder,andsaltinasmallbowl.

2.Place thebutterand thesugar ina largebowlandwhiskuntil thesugarhasmostlydissolved.Addtheeggandthemilkandwhiskuntilthemixtureisverysmoothandcreamy,about5minutes.Addtheflourmixtureinsmallbatchestothe egg mixture, whisking constantly. Once the last batch of flour has beenwhiskedin,foldinthemarmaladeandapricots.

3. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSet-Up.

4.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.

5.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

6.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutter and coating itwith sugar. Scoop the batter into the basin andwiggle it

gentlytolevelitoff.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthebatter.Cover thebasinwith thedampmuslinandsecure it tightlywith thestring.Tie the opposite corners of themuslin into handles over the top of thepudding.

7.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast2hoursorupto4hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavor and texture.Check thewater level every30minutes and replenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

8.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholder tograsptheclothhandle,carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallow the pudding to cool for 5minutes.Remove the string, cloth, and paper.Unmoldbyinvertingitontoaplate.Sliceandservewithsomehoneyormoreoftheorangemarmalade.Thepuddingcanbekept refrigerated forup to3days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

StickyToffeePudding

(England)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Sticky toffeepudding is a traditional spongepuddingenrichedbyadatepastemixed throughout the batter. The dates add stickiness,moisture, and color, aswellasflavorssimilartocaramel,chocolate,andmolasses.Youcanuseanykindof date, but if you are using dates that are more fibrous than the super-softmedjool,addonemoreteaspoonofwatertothepaste.Youcanturnthisintoafigpuddingbysimplysubstitutingfigsforthedates.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDatePaste

1/3cupfinelychoppedmedjooldates1/3cupwarmwater½teaspoonbakingsoda

FortheSauce

½cupheavycream½ cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary ofIngredients)2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks

FortheBatter

1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingpowderPinchofsalt6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature½cupsugar2largeeggs,plus2largeeggyolks,atroomtemperature¼teaspoonvanillaextract

ForCooking

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.PREPARE THE DATE PASTE:Mix thedates,warmwater,andbakingsoda inasmallbowlandsetaside.

2.MAKE THE SAUCE: Pour the cream into a small saucepan and stir in themuscovadosugar.Add the 2 tablespoons of butter andbring to a gentle simmer over lowheat. Stir continuously until the sauce turns a golden brown, 8 to 10minutes.Removefromtheheat,cover,andkeepwarm.

3.MAKETHEBATTER:Combinetheflour,bakingpowder,andsaltinasmallbowl.

4.Placethe6tablespoonsbutterandthesugarina largebowlandwhiskuntilmostof thesugarhasdissolved.Whisk in theeggsand theeggyolksoneatatime.Continuewhippinguntilthemixtureislightandairy,about5minutes.Mixinthevanillaextract.Addtheflourmixtureinsmallbatchestotheeggmixture,whiskingconstantly.Once the lastbatchofflourmixturehasbeenwhisked in,foldinthedatemixture.

5. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSetup.

6.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.Havereadythebatterandthewarmsauce.

7.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

8.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutter and coating it with sugar. Pour about half of the sauce into the basin,generously coating the bottom. Scoop the batter into the basin and wiggle itgentlytolevelitoff.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthebatter.Cover thebasinwith thedampmuslinandsecure it tightlywith thestring.Tie the opposite corners of themuslin into handles over the top of thepudding.

9.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast1½hours,orupto2½hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavorandtexture.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholdertograsptheclothhandle,

carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallow the pudding to cool for 5minutes.Remove the string, cloth, and paper.Carefullyunmoldbyinvertingitontoaplate.Reheattherestofthesauceovermediumheat,whiskingitbacktogetherifithasseparated.Slicethepuddingandservewithadrizzleofthewarmsauce.Thepuddingcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

PotatoDumplingswithCroutonCentersKartoffelklösse(Germany)

SERVES4(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

Thecroutoncentersofthesepotatodumplings—abutteryandchewysurprisetobiteinto—lessenthecookingtimeofthesegenerouslysizeddumplings.Dustingtheuncookeddumplingsinflourformsaskinthathelpstoholdthemtogetherasyou slide them into the simmeringwater.Thesedumplings canbe servedas asimple sidewithbutter,ormoreambitiously,witha roastedmeatdish suchassauerbraten.

FortheDough

2mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg¾cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1largeeggyolk1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves3stripsbacon,cookedcrispandcrumbled(optional)

FortheBreadCubeCenter

1tablespoonunsaltedbutterSixteen½-inchcrustlesswhitebreadcubes(seeGlossaryofIngredients)

1.MAKE THE DOUGH:Place thepotatoes ina smallpot,pour inenoughwater tocover

them,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmeruntil fork-tender, about 30minutes.Drain andplace thepotatoes on afoldedkitchentowel.Oncetheyarecoolenoughtohandle,peeloff theirskinsandputthefleshintoalargebowl.Mashuntilmostlysmooth.

2. Add the salt, nutmeg, and ½ cup of the flour to the potato, keeping theremaining¼cupof flourhandy.Tosswithyour fingersuntilwellmixed.Addtheeggyolk,parsley,andbaconandworkthemixtureintoasoftdough,about2minutes.Thisdoughneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshapewhenrolledintoballs.Ifitistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.

3.PREPARETHEBREADCUBES:Lineaplatewithpapertowels.

4.Meltthebutterinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addthebreadcubesandtossandstircontinuouslyuntillightlybrowned,3to4minutes.Spreadthebreadcubesoutonthepreparedplatetocool.

5.MAKEANDCOOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthebreadcubes.

6.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1½inchesaround.Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Pressaholehalfwayintothedoughballwithyourthumb.Pushabreadcubeintotheholeandclosebypushingtheedgesofthedoughoverthebreadcubeuntilitissurrounded,pushingoutanyair.Rerollinto a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with theremainingdoughandbreadcubes.

7.Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

8. Carefully drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering water. Stircarefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3

minutes,thencookfor5minuteslonger.Servewithyourfavoritesteworsauce.

CountryCabbageSoupwithLargeCornmealDumplingsSoupeauxMiquesetauxChoux(France)SERVES4(MAKES4DUMPLINGS)

These large cornmeal dumplings create a pleasing balance of textures in thischunkycabbage soup.Standardcornmealcanbe toocoarseand tough for thisdumpling,whilecornflour is toofineandwillcreateadumpling that ismuchtoodense.Standardor stone-groundcornmeal canbeused ifyou firstgrind itintoafinermealwithafewpulsesinaspicegrinder.

FortheSoup

1poundunsmokedcountryham,rinsedandcutinto4equalpieces½smallbunchfreshflat-leafparsley8to10freshthymesprigs2to3bayleaves1largeyellowonion,choppedcoarse4largecarrots,cutinto1-inchrounds5celeryribs,cutinto1-inchpieces1smallSavoyorgreencabbage,quartered,cored,andcutinto1-inchstrips3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks3tablespoonsunbleachedall-purposeflour

FortheDumplings

1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour1½cupsstone-groundwhitecornmeal,groundveryfineinacleanspiceorcoffeegrinder1teaspoonsalt2 tablespoons renderedduck fatorother animal fat likenonhydrogenated

lardorchickenfat

Equipment

CleanspiceorcoffeegrinderKitchenstringfortyingtheherbsColanderlinedwith4to6layersofcheesecloth

1.MAKETHESOUP:Placethehamand3quartswaterinalargepotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor1hour.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.

2.Oncethebrothhassimmeredfor1hour,tietheparsley,thyme,andbayleavesinatightbundle.Addtheherbbundle,theonion,carrots,andcelery.Coverandsimmerfor30minuteslonger.(Youcanalsomakethesoupinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

3.Oncetheceleryandcarrotshavesimmeredfor30minutes,removethemandsomeoftheonionfromthebrothusingaslottedspoon,divideevenlybetweentwobowls,andsetaside.Discardtheherbbundle.Strainthebrothintoalargebowlthroughacheesecloth-linedcolander.Returnthesouptothepot.Placeoververy,verylowheat,keepingithotwhileyoumakeandcookthedumplings.

4.MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Fill another largepothalfwaywithwaterandbring toaboiloverhighheat.

5. Place 1¼ cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining¼ cuphandy.Mixinthecornmealandthesalt.Addtheduckfatanduseyourfingerstorub it evenly throughout the flour mixture until it resembles a coarse, dampmeal.

6.Pour1cupwaterintotheflourmixtureandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Thedough

should be firm and slightly dry. If the dough is sticky, work in some of theremaining flour, a little at a time. Knead the dough in the bowl for 1 to 2minutes.Cutthedoughinto4equalpiecesandrolleachpieceintoaball.

7.Addall4dumplings to theboilingwater.Thesedumplingswillsinkat firstbutwillfloattothesurfaceastheycook.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmerfor15minutes.Turnthedumplingsover,cover,andcookfor15minuteslonger.Onceyouturnthedumplingsover,addthecabbagetothebroth,cover,raisetheheattomedium,andsimmerfor15minutes.

8.FINISHTHESOUP:Meanwhile,meltthebutterinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Add1bowlofthevegetables,stiroccasionally,andcookfor3to5minutes.Sprinklethe flour across the vegetables and continue stirring and cooking for about 3minutes. Immediately spoon the sauteéd vegetables back into the broth. Thesecondbowlofvegetablescanbeservedasasideorsavedforanothermeal.

9.Oncethedumplingshavefinishedcooking,useaslottedspoontoimmediatelymove them form their cooking liquid to the soup.Cover, cook for 10minuteslongerovermediumheat,andserve.

PhiladelphiaPepperpotSoupwithDumplings

(UnitedStates)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT30DUMPLINGS)

Philadelphiapepperpotsoupisatraditionaltripesoupthat’smoreoftenthannotfilledwithsoftdumplingsthataddevenmorecharactertothe“squidgy”textureofthetripe.Mosttripesoldhasalreadybeenblanchedandoftenbleached.Ifyouwantamoreintenseornaturaltripesoup,youcanbuyfreshtripeandblanchityourselfforashorttimeasitisdonehere.Likemostsoups,thisoneimprovesafteradayofrestingintherefrigerator.Ifmakingthesoupinadvance,addthedumplingsafterthesouphasbeenreheated.

FortheSoup

1½poundshoneycomborpocketbeeftripe,wellrinsedandcutinto3or4equalpieces2tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil2leeks,whiteandlightgreenpartsonly,rinsedcleanandchoppedfine1largegreenbellpepper,coredandcutinto½-inchsquares2tablespoonsunbleachedall-purposeflour1recipe(2quarts)BeefBrothwithAmericanFlavors1teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1 large boiling potato, such as Yukon Gold, peeled and cut into ½-inchcubes2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshmarjoramleavesor2teaspoonsdried¼cupheavycream(optional)

FortheDumplings

1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting½teaspoonbakingpowder1teaspoonsalt2tablespoonscoldunsaltedbutter,cutintobits½cupcoldwater

1.MAKETHESOUP3HOURSINADVANCE:Placethetripeinasmallpot,coverwithwaterbyabout2inches, and bring to a boil over high heat.Cover, reduce the heat to low, andsimmerfor1hour.Drainandrinsethetripeundercoldrunningwateruntilcoolenoughtohandle.Cutthetripeinto½-inchsquaresandsetaside.Thetripewillbesquishybutfirmenoughtocut.

2.Heat the oil in a large pot overmedium heat.Add the leeks and the greenpepperandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheleeksarelightlybrowned,about5minutes.Mixinthe2tablespoonsflourandcookfor2minuteslonger.

3.Pourinthebeefbrothandscrapeupanystickybitsfromthebottomofthepotwithawoodenspoon.Add the tripe,salt,andpepper.Coverandsimmerfor2hours. (You can also make the soup in advance and keep it refrigerated in atightlysealedcontainerforupto3days.)

4.MAKETHEDOUGH:Whilethesoupsimmers,place1cupoftheflourinamediumbowlandkeep theremaining¼cuphandy.Add thebakingpowderand thesaltandmixwell. Add the butter to the flourmixture andwork them togetherwith apastrycutteror2butterknivesuntilthemixturelookslikeadamp,coarsemeal.Pourinthecoldwaterandmixuntilallthewaterhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

5.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor3to4minutes.Thedoughwill be somewhat firm and elastic. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and

refrigeratefor30minutes.

6.MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Shortlybefore thesouphas finishedcooking, linea traywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

7.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandroll it intoaballabout1 incharound.Dust with a little flour and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat with theremainingdough.Keep thedumplings ina single layeron the tray.Coverandrefrigerateuntilitistimetoaddthedumplings.

8.Oncethesouphascookedfor2hours,addthepotatoesandmarjoram,cover,andcookfor15minutes.Dropthedumplings,afewatatime,intothesoupandstirgently.Coverandsimmerfor10minutes longer.Remove thepot fromtheheat,stirinthecream,ifdesired,andserve.

LargeBeef-andSpinach-FilledDumplingsinaBeefBrothMaultaschen(Germany)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT24DUMPLINGS)

Themeatandvegetablefillingintheselargesoupdumplingshasasurprisinglycreamyconsistencycreatedbytheadditionofsoakedbread.Theyarerewardingtomake,comfortingtoeat,andspectaculartoserve.

FortheDough

2½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting3largeeggs,beaten1teaspoongrapeseedorotherneutraloil

FortheFilling

3cups½-inchcrustlesswhitebreadcubes(seeGlossaryofIngredients)1/3cupmilkorwater¼cupfinelychoppedbaconoraneutraloil,suchasgrapeseed1smallyellowonion,choppedfine1garlicclove,choppedfine½poundfreshlygroundbeef½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1smallbunchspinach,stemmed,hand-wilted(seeTips),andchoppedfine,or½cupfrozenspinach,thawedandchoppedfine¼cupfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley1largeeggyolk1teaspoonsalt

FortheBroth*

1recipe(2quarts)BeefBrothwithGermanFlavors1teaspoonsalt

Equipment

3-inchroundcookiecutter

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place2¼cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼ cup handy.Add the eggs, oil, and 1 tablespoonwater andmix until all theliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhandsintoonemanageableball.Ifthedoughiswetandsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

2.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor4to5minutes.Thedoughwillbesomewhatfirm.Returnthedoughballtothebowl,cover,andletitrestforatleast30minutesbutnomorethan1hour.

3.MAKETHEFILLING:Placethebreadcubesinalargebowlandpourinthemilk.Workand squish the mixture until all the bread cubes become pulpy bits. Pick uphandfuls of the mixture, squeeze out any excess milk into a small bowl, andplacethebreadpulpinanotherbowl.Discardtheexcessmilkandsetthebreadpulpaside.

4.Place thebaconina largeskilletovermediumheat.Onceenoughbaconfathasmeltedtocoat thepan,about3minutes, raise theheat tohighandaddtheonion.Stirfrequentlyuntilthebaconislightlybrowned,about5minutes.Mixinthegarlicandbeef,breakingupclumpsasthemeatbeginstobrown.Stiruntilthebeefisgoldenbrown,about3minutes.Mixinthenutmegandremovefromthe heat, letting the mixture cool slightly in the pan. Scoop it into a foodprocessor, add the spinach, and pulse until the beef is finelyminced, scrapingdownthesidesasyougo.Scoopitintoalargebowl,thenmixinthebreadpulp,

parsley, egg yolk, and salt. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60minutes beforeassemblingthedumplings.

5.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

6.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceinto a ball, then roll it out until it’s 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

7.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually10to12.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

8. Set apart 4 to6dough rounds andbrushhalf of themwith a littlewater tomake them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded tablespoonof filling in thecenterofeachdampenedround.Topeachspoonfuloffillingwithanunbrushedround,creatinglittlesandwiches.Pinchtheedgesoftheroundstogether,pushingoutanyair,andseal.Daba littlewateralong theedges, ifneeded, forabetterseal. If desired, trim or crimp the edges for a more tailored look. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

9.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

10.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Pourthebrothintoamediumpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Stirinthesaltandreducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

11.Gentlydrophalfofthedumplings,onebyone,intothebroth.Stircarefullytopreventsticking.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,2to3minutes,thencookfor3minutes longer. (Ifcooking frozenmaultaschen, add themdirectly to thesimmeringbrothandincreasethecookingtimeby2minutes.Donotallowthemaultaschentothawbeforecooking.)

12.Usingaslottedspoon,removethemaultaschenandlaythemonaplateanddrizzle themwithacoupleof spoonfulsof thebroth toprevent sticking.Cooktheremainingmaultaschen.Oncethesecondbatchhasfinishedcooking,returnthefirstbatchtothebroth,stirtowarmthrough,andserve.

DumplingsStuffedwithPears,Figs,andChocolateCialzonsallaFrutta(Italy)

SERVES4TO5(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

Cialzons are large Italian dumplings stuffedwith an elaborate and impressivecombinationofingredientsthatcanincludefreshanddriedfruits,meats,herbs,chocolate,andcheese.Somerecipesarequitesavory,whileothers,likethisone,areonthesweeterside.Ifyoucan’tgetdriedpears,youcanusedriedapplesorprunesinstead.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheHalf-MoonFold.

FortheFilling

1/3cupredwine4all-naturaldriedgoldenfigs,cutintoraisin-sizedbits2all-naturaldriedpearhalves,cutintoraisin-sizedbits1/3cupraisins1/3cupwhole-milkricotta,drained(seeGlossaryofIngredients)for4to8hours1/8teaspoongroundcinnamon1/8teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1tablespoonsugarPinchofsalt2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleavesormintleaves2tablespoonsfinelygrateddarkchocolate

FortheDough

1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce)dough,preferablymadewhilethefillingisbeingchilledbutnomorethan1hourinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheSauce*

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks

Equipment

5-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEFILLING:Pourthewineintoasmallsaucepanandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheatandstirinthefigs,pears,andraisins.Letthefruitsoakfor15minutes,drain,placeinabowl,andsetaside.

2.Holdafine-meshsieveoveralargebowlandpushthericottathrough2or3timeswitharubberspatula.Mixinthesoakedanddrainedfruitandtherestofthe filling ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes beforeassemblingthedumplings.

3.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthecialzons,reviewtheHalf-MoonFold.

4.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

5.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceinto a ball, then roll it out until it’s 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolledout

doughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

6.Using thecookiecutter, cutoutasmany roundsasyoucan,usually4 to5.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

7.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakethemstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedtablespoonoffillingontopofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dab a littlewater along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

8.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

9.COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringit toaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.Gentlydrophalfof thedumplings,onebyone, into thewater.Stircarefully topreventsticking.Cook until all of them are floating, 3 to 4 minutes, then cook for 3 minuteslonger.(Ifcookingfrozencialzons,addthemdirectlytothesimmeringwaterandincreasethecookingtimeby2minutes.Donotallowthecialzonstothawbeforecooking.)

10.Removethecialzonswithaslottedspoon,placetheminthelargebowl,anddrizzle themwith a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook theremainingcialzonsandplacetheminthebowlwithanotherladleofthecookingliquid.

11.MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS:Melt thebutterslowly ina largeskilletover low

heatwithoutbrowning.Oncethebutterhasmeltedcompletely,raisetheheattomediumandcookuntilthebutterturnsadarkcaramelbrown,about3minutes,swirling the butter around occasionally.Drain the cialzons, turn them into thebutter,tossgentlytocoatandwarmthrough,about1minute,andserve.

PumpkinandLentilRavioliwithBrownedButterandRosemaryRaviolidiZuccaeLenticchie(Italy)SERVES4(MAKESABOUT60DUMPLINGS)

We use butternut squash in this recipe, but any hard, sweet orange-fleshedsquashwilldowithoutanylossofflavorortexture.Thisfillingmaylookquitedry in the bowl, but it cooks up soft and succulent inside the dumplings. Thecrushedamaretticookiesaddmoreofanuttyflavorthanasugarytouch,butyoucanreducethenumberofcookiesifyoulike.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheHalf-MoonFold.

FortheFilling

1smallbutternutsquash,splitlengthwisewiththeseedsscoopedout(about2pounds)¼cupdriedgreenlentils,rinsed7smallamaretticookies,coarselycrushed½cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese1/8teaspoongroundcinnamon1/8teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2/3 cup coarse dry crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary ofIngredients)

FortheDough

1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce)dough,preferablymadewhilethefillingisbeingchilledbutnomorethan1

hourinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheSauce*

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks1freshrosemarysprig1garlicclove,choppedveryfineSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Equipment

2½-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEFILLING:Preheattheovento375°F.

2.Roast thebutternut squash, flesh sidedown,ona lightlyoiledbaking sheetuntilsoft,about30minutes.

3.Meanwhile,fillasmallsaucepanhalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Addthelentils,cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntiltender,about30minutes.Drain,mashlightlywithaforkwhilestillinthepot,andsetaside.

4.Remove the squash from the oven and set it aside until it’s cool enough tohandle. Scoop the flesh out of the skin, place it in amediumbowl, andmashuntilmostlysmooth.

5.Move the squashontoakitchen towel.Bring together the endsof the clothandtwisttosqueezeoutasmuchliquidasyoucan.Theamountofliquidyouaresqueezingoutwon’tbemuchandmaysimplybeabsorbedbythecloth.Putthe

squashback into thebowl.Mix in the amaretti,Parmesan, cinnamon, nutmeg,salt,andpepper.Addthelentilsandthebreadcrumbsandfoldjustafewtimestomakeapurposelyunevenmixture.Coverandrefrigeratefor30to60minutesbeforeassemblingthedumplings.

6.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingtheravioli,reviewtheHalf-MoonFold.

7. Line a traywith a kitchen towel and sprinklewith a little flour.Also havereadythedoughandthefilling.

8.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceinto a ball, then roll it out until it’s 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

9.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually12to15.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

10.Layflat1to5doughrounds.Brusheachroundwithaverythincoatingofwatertomakethemstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedteaspoonoffillingontopofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dab a littlewater along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

11.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

12. COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Fill a largepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

13.Gentlydrophalfofthedumplings,afewatatime,intothesimmeringwater.Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3minutes, then cook for 3minutes longer. (If cooking frozen ravioli, add themdirectlytothesimmeringwaterandincreasethecookingtimeby1minute.Donotallowtheraviolitothawbeforecooking.)

14.Usingaslottedspoon,removethedumplings,placetheminthelargebowl,and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook theremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquid.

15.MAKETHESAUCEANDFINISHTHEDUMPLINGS:Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepanoverlowheat.Once the butter hasmelted completely, raise the heat tomedium and add therosemaryandgarlic.Cookuntilthebutterandgarlicturnadeepchestnutbrown,about3minutes,thendiscardtherosemary.

16.Draintheravioli,turnthemintothebutter,andtossgentlytocoatandwarmthrough,about1minute.Sprinklewithsaltandpepperandserve.

“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwithMushroomsinaBeetSoupBorshchzVushka(Russia)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT64DUMPLINGS)

These savory, thin-skinneddumplingsarevery tiny,but theyare served inbignumbersperportion(12to20)andarewellworththecareandpatiencerequiredto prepare them. Few soup recipes call for such a generous serving of filleddumplings, which makes this soup a natural choice for celebrations. Thecombinationof freshanddriedmushroomsgives the fillingboth intensity andlightness.Thedumplingscanbecookedinwaterandthenaddedtothesouporcooked directly in the soup, giving it a slight starchy cloudiness and a morecohesiveflavor.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBelly-ButtonFold.

FortheSoup*

2½poundsmeatybeefbones,suchasrib,shank,orneck1poundbeefbrisket,cutinto4equalpieces2bayleaves2teaspoonssalt1teaspoonblackpeppercorns3largecarrots,cutinto1-inchrounds2largeparsnips,peeledandcutinto1-inchrounds1largebeet,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces1smallgreencabbage,coredandcutinto1½-inchchunks3plumtomatoes,peeled,seeded(seeGlossaryofIngredients),andcrushed,or3cannedplumtomatoes,drainedandcrushed(about¾cup)

FortheFilling

½ouncedriedmushrooms,preferablyporcini,soakedin1cuphotwaterfor30minutes3tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1smallyellowonion,choppedveryfine5ouncesfreshmushrooms,preferablyporcini,choppedveryfine¾teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheDough

1 recipe Shao Mai (Bottlenecked Pork and Shrimp Dumplings) dough,preferablymadewhile the soup is simmeringbutnomore than1hour inadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

Equipment

Colanderlinedwith4to6layersofcheeseclothLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKE THE SOUP 2 HOURS IN ADVANCE:Place thebeefbones,brisket, bay leaves,2 teaspoonssalt, andpeppercorns ina largepot.Pour in10cupswaterandbring toaboiloverhighheat.Cover, reduce theheat to low,andsimmerfor1½hours.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.

2. Remove the pot from the heat. Remove the bones and the brisket with aslottedspoonortongsandplacetheminabowltocool.Strainthebrothintoamediumpotthroughthecheesecloth-linedcolanderandskimoffanyremainingfat.Returnthebrothtoasimmerovermediumheat,stirinthecarrots,parsnips,andbeet,cover,andcookfor30minutes.

3.While thevegetablesarecooking, tear thebrisket intobite-sizedpiecesandplacethembackinthebowl.Pullanymeatoffthebones,discardthebones,and

addthemeatybitsbacktothebowl.Oncethevegetableshavefinishedcooking,stir in the meat, cabbage, and tomatoes. Cover and simmer for 15 minuteslonger. Remove from the heat and set aside. (You can alsomake the soup inadvanceandkeep it refrigerated ina tightly sealedcontainer forup to3days.Bringthesouptoasimmerbeforeaddingthedumplings.)

4.MAKE THE FILLING:Fishout thesoakedmushroomswithyourfingers,squeezingtheexcess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside and finely chop themushrooms.Strainandreserveallthesoakingliquid.

5. Heat the oil in a large skillet overmedium heat. Add the onion and cook,stirringfrequently,untilsoft,about4minutes.Addthesoakedmushrooms,thefreshmushrooms,the¾teaspoonsalt,andthegroundpepperandstiruntil themushrooms are golden brown, about 4minutes. Pour in the reserved soakingliquidfromthemushrooms.Cook,stirringcontinuously,untilmostoftheliquidhascookedoff,about2minutes.Scoopthemushroommixtureintoabowlandsetasidetocool.

6.ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS:Beforeassembling thevushka,reviewtheBelly-ButtonFold,only you will be using dough squares instead of the rounds shown in theillustrations.

7.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

8.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoabluntlog,thenrollitoutintoan8-inchsquare.Thisdoughshouldnotbethicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Takeyourtimeanddustwithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutes.

9. Trim the edges to create a cleaner square shape, cut the dough into 2-inchstrips, then cut across the strips every 2 inches to form 16 squares. Place the

squaresinasinglelayeronthepreparedtray.Keepthesquarescoveredwithakitchen towel as youwork.Scraps cannot be reusedbecausedough rolledoutthisthinistoodrytorecombine.

10.Layflat1to5doughsquares.Brusheachsquarewithaverythincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Placearoundedteaspoonoffillinginthecenterofeachsquare,foldeachdiagonallyintoatriangle,pushingoutanyair,and pinch to seal. Pick up one of the triangles and join and pinch the endstogetherbehind the “belly”of thedumpling.Daba littlewateron the ends, ifneeded, for a better seal. Repeat with the remaining triangles. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

11.Coverandplacethetrayofassembleddumplingsintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

12.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepotthree-quartersofthewayfullwithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Ifcookingthevushka inthesoup,bringthesouptoasteadysimmerovermediumheat.

13.Gentlydropafewdozenvushka,afewatatime,intothesimmeringwater.Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3minutes, then cook for 3minutes longer. (If cooking frozenvushka, add themdirectlytothesimmeringwaterandincreasethecookingtimeby1minute.Donotallowthevushkatothawbeforecooking.)

14.Usingaslottedspoon,removethedumplings,placetheminthelargebowl,and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook theremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquid.

15.Bringthesouptoasimmerovermediumheat.Drainallthevushkaandstirthemintothesoup.Cookfor1minutetowarmthroughandserve.

December

ROOTVEGETABLEBREADDUMPLINGS

Zöldséggombóc(Hungary)

CLOOTIEDUMPLING

(Scotland)

STARCHYCOCONUTSTEWWITHSLIPPERYRICEBALLS

GuinataanatBilo-Bilo(Philippines)

GUAVADUFF

(Bahamas)

POTATODUMPLINGSWITHCABBAGELAYERS

KáposztásGombóc(Hungary)

JOHNINTHESACK

JanindeZak(Holland)

CLASSICCHRISTMASPUDDING

(England)

CHOCOLATETAMALES

TamalesdeChocolate(Mexico)

SIBERIANMEATDUMPLINGS

Pelmeni(Russia)

CHESTNUTRAVIOLIWITHSAGEBUTTERSAUCE

RaviolidiCastagne(Italy)

CHICKEN-FILLEDDUMPLINGSINANESCAROLESOUP

CappellettiinBrodo(Italy)

DUMPLINGSSTUFFEDWITH“STEWED”BREADCRUMBS

AnolinidiParma(Italy)

RootVegetableBreadDumplingsZöldséggombóc(Hungary)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT30DUMPLINGS)

Thisisagoodwinterdumplingthatischockfullofwintervegetables,althoughtheycanbemadeyear-roundwithotherseasonallyavailablevegetables.Servethesewithyourfavoritemeat,bean,ormushroomdishanytimeyouhaveagoodamountofday-oldbreadjustbeggingtobeputtogooduse.

FortheVegetableMixture

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks½smallyellowonion,choppedfine1mediumcarrot,cutinto¼-inchcubes1largeparsnip,peeledandcutinto¼-inchcubes1smallturniporkohlrabi,peeledandcutinto¼-inchcubes4largecreminimushrooms,choppedfine1teaspoonsalt1teaspoonsweetpaprika2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

FortheDough

4cups½-inchcrustlesswhitebreadcubes(seeGlossaryofIngredients)2/3cupmilk1largeegg,beaten1/3cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting

½teaspoonsalt½cupcoarsedrycrustlesswhitebreadcrumbs(seeGlossaryofIngredients)

ForServing

6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedjustbeforeservingSaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperSourcream

Equipment

Large,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedin

1.COOK THE VEGETABLEMIXTURE:Melt the2tablespoonsbutterinasmallpotovermediumheat.Addtheonionandstirjustuntilitbeginstosoften,about2minutes.Addthe carrot, parsnip, turnip,mushrooms, 1 tablespoon salt, and the paprika andcook,stirringcontinuously,for3minutes.Stirin½cupwater,cover,andsimmerfor15minuteslonger.Stiroccasionally,addingalittlemorewaterifthemixturebeginstolookalittledry.

2.Uncoverandstiruntilalltheremainingliquidhasevaporatedandthemixturebeginstobrownlightly.Removethepotfromtheheat,stirintheparsley,scoopthemixtureintoashallowbowl,andallowittocoolslightly.

3.MAKETHEDOUGH:Placethebreadcubesinalargebowlandpourinthemilk.Workthemilk into the breadwith your hands, squishingwith your fingers until thebreadbecomesarelativelysmoothpaste.Mixintheegg,flour,and½teaspoonsalt, thenmixinthewarmvegetablemixtureandthebreadcrumbs.Coverandrefrigeratefor20to30minutes.

4.MAKETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.

5.Usingwethands,pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaballabout1¼inchesaround.Dustwithalittleflourandplaceonthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

6.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

7. Gently drop half the balls, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stircarefully to prevent the dumplings from sticking. Cook until all of them arefloating,about8minutes,thencookfor3minuteslonger.

8.Removethedumplingswithaslottedspoon,placetheminthelargebowl,anddrizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook with theremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquid.

9. Drain the dumplings and move them to a wide serving bowl. Drizzle themeltedbutteroverthedumplings,sprinklewithsaltandpepper,andservewithasideofsourcream.

ClootieDumpling

(Scotland)

SERVES4(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Clootie, a Scottish word for “cloth,” is also the name of this rich, fruitydumpling that is cooked in a cloth. It’s a type of fruitcake, similar to ClassicChristmas Pudding (December), and a traditional holiday treat. Some mayappreciatethetasteandtextureoftheclootiedumplingmorethantheChristmasPudding,becausetheratioofbattertofruitismoreeven.TheChristmasPuddinghasmuchmore fruitand fat,and ismadewithadensebreadbatter,making itextremely intense. Some unwrap and “dry” the clootie dumpling for a fewminutesinahotoven,givingitsflouryskinaslightcrunch.

ThisdumplingiswrappedusingthePuddingBagFold.

FortheDumpling

2/3cupraisins1/3cupcurrants1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour¼cupveryfinechoppedcoldsuetor2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,frozen,coarselygrated,andkeptcold¼cupmuscovadoorotherunrefinedsugar(seeGlossaryofIngredients)½teaspoonbakingsoda¼teaspoonbakingpowder1teaspoonPuddingSpicePinchofsalt1largeegg,beaten

1tablespoontreacleormolasses1/3cupbuttermilk1crisp,tartapple,suchasGrannySmith

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbutterandunbleachedall-purposeflourtocoatthemuslin1recipeVanillaCustardSauceorCreamSauceorvanillaicecream

Equipment

Heatproofrackorplate,smallenoughtofitinalargepot24-inchsquareofmuslin12-inchlengthofkitchenstringfortyingtheclootiedumpling

1.MAKETHEBATTER:Placetheraisinsandthecurrantsinasmallbowl,pourinenoughwarmwatertocoverby1inch,andsoakfor15to20minutes.

2.Meanwhile, place the rackor an upside-downplate in amediumpot, fill ittwo-thirdsofthewaywithwater,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Therackorplate is there to protect the dumpling from direct heat by preventing it fromsinkingtothebottomofthepot.Thisdumplingfloatswhileitcooksinboilingwater,butitwillsinkforafewminuteswhenfirstplacedinthepot.Itcanalsosettletothebottomduringcookingifthewaterlevelfallsbelowhalfwayupthesidesofthedumpling.

3.Placetheflourinalargebowl.Addthesuetandmixitthroughouttheflour,breakingapartanyclumps.Ifusingbutter,rubitintotheflouruntilthemixturelookslikeacoarse,dampmeal.Mixinthesugar,bakingsoda,bakingpowder,PuddingSpice,andsalt.

4.Whisktogethertheegg, treacle,andbuttermilkinasmallbowl.Pourit into

the flour mixture and stir just until you have a moist, sticky batter. Do notovermix.

5.Peelandcoretheappleandcoarselygrateitoveraplatetocollectitsjuices.Drain the raisins and currants, stir them into the batter along with the gratedappleanditsjuices,andsetaside.

6. ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLING:Beforeassembling the clootiedumpling, review the PuddingBagFold.

7.Soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,wringitout,andspreaditoutonaflatsurface.Rubonesideofthedampmuslinwithbutter,leavinganarrowborderonallsides,andcoatwithflour.Centerthebatterontopofthemuslin.(Youmayfinditeasiertoassemblethedumplingbyusingabowlasasupportivemoldfortheclothbefore filling itwithbatter.)Gatherup thecornersof themuslinandarrangethefoldsneatly,creatingabag.Asyoucollectthemuslinandprepareitfortying,leaveitslightlybaggysothatthedumplingcanswellasitcooks.Becertain,however,togripthemuslinlowenoughtoleavenoopengaps.Tiethegatheredmuslintightly.

8. COOK THE DUMPLING: Carefully lower thewrapped dumpling into the boilingwater,cover,andcookfor2hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutes.Addmoreboilingwaterifthereisnotenoughtoreachatleasthalfwayupthedumpling.

9.Removethedumplingwithtongs,placeitonafoldedkitchentoweltodrain,unwrap,andletitrestforacoupleofminutes.Ifthereisnonaturallyflatside,steadythedumplingwithaforkandsliceoffjustenoughfromanysidetocreatea “foot,”making it possible for it to sit steadily on a plate. ServewarmwithVanillaCustardSauce,CreamSauce,orvanillaicecream.Theclootiedumplingcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.ReheatinasteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

StarchyCoconutStewwithSlipperyRiceBallsGuinataanatBilo-Bilo(Philippines)SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT20DUMPLINGS)

Thetermguinataanreferstoanydishthatisstewedincoconutmilk,andbilo-bilo means “ball ball,” which in this recipe refers to small, chewy rice flourdumplings. Jackfruit is one of the exceptional ingredients in this dish, but it’sdifficult to find fresh and carries a slight metallic taste when canned. Driedjackfruitisthenextbestthingonceithasbeensoakedinwarmwateruntilsoft.Theubeyam,foundeitherfreshorfrozenatmanyPhilippinemarkets,willtintthestewwithapurplehue.Ifyouareunabletofindjackfruitorubeyam, thiscreamyandcoconuttydessertisstillworthmaking,andyoucancompensatebyjustaddingmoreoftheotheringredients.

FortheStew

6cupsfreshcoconutmilk(seeGlossaryof Ingredients)or twoandahalf14-ouncecanscoconutmilkmixedwith2cupswater½cupsugar¼cupsmalltapiocapearls½poundsweetpotato,peeledandcutinto1-inchcubes½poundtaro,peeledandcutinto1-inchcubes½poundfreshorthawedfrozenubeyam,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces1yellowplantain,peeledandcutinto1-inchrounds½ pound jackfruit, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces, or ¼ pound driedjackfruit,soakedinhotwatertocoverfor30minutes,drainedandcutinto1-inchpieces

FortheDumplings

1¼ cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from the Philippines orThailand,plussomeextrafordusting½cupwarmwater

1. MAKE THE COCONUT STEW: Pour the coconut milk into a medium pot and bring to asimmerovermedium-lowheat.Immediatelyreducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.Ifusingfreshcoconutmilk,besurenottoletitcometoaboiloritwillseparateintowhatlookslikeasuperfinecurdleandyouwillhavetostartover.Stirinthesugarandtapiocaandcookfor1minute.Addthesweetpotato,taro,ube,plantain,andjackfruit,cover,andsimmerfor20to25minutes,oruntilthesweetpotatojustbeginstosoften.Stiroccasionallywhileitsimmers.

2. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: While the stew cooks, line a tray with a kitchen towel andsprinklewithalittlericeflour.

3.Place1cupofthericeflourinamediumbowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy. Pour in thewarmwater andmix until a smooth ball forms.Knead thedoughinthebowlforaminute.Thisdoughneedstobefirmenoughtoholditsshape when rolled into balls. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of theremainingflour,alittleatatime.

4.Pinchoffasmallpieceofdoughandroll it intoaballabout1 incharound.Dust with a little rice flour and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with theremainingdough.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Once the stew has finished simmering for 20 to 25 minutes,carefullydropthericeballs,afewatatime.Coverandsimmerfor10minuteslonger, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, cool slightly, and serve.Guinataancanberefrigeratedforupto3days.Reheatbeforeserving.

GuavaDuff

(Bahamas)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES1DUMPLING)

Takeonebiteofthislayered,steamedcakeandyou’llimmediatelynoticethebigfruitytasteoftheguava.Ifyou’renotfamiliarwithguava,youwillbedelightedbyitssweetberrylikeflavor,reminiscentofpassionfruit.Thisrecipeusesguavapaste, a condensed and sweetened fruit preserve,which canbe found atmanysupermarkets.

ThisdumplingismadeusingtheJelly-RollShapeandthensteamedusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDough

1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoonbakingpowder1/8teaspoonsalt4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature¼cupsugar1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice1largeegg,atroomtemperature,beaten

FortheFilling

8ouncesguavapaste,choppedcoarse(about1cup)

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin1recipeHardSauce(recipefollows)

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin35-inchlengthofkitchenstring4-to5-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place1cupoftheflourinamediumbowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addthebakingsoda,bakingpowder,andsaltandmixwell.

2.Place thebutter, sugar, and lemon juice ina largebowlandwhiskuntil thesugarhasmostlydissolved.Addtheeggandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixtureislightandairy,about3minutes.

3.Addhalfoftheflourmixturetotheeggmixtureandstiruntilcombined,thenmixinthesecondhalf.Gentlyworkthedoughinthebowlintoonemanageableball.Do not overwork the dough. If the dough is sticky,work in some of theremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.Coverandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

4. MAKE THE FILLING: While the dough is chilling, place the guava paste with 2tablespoonswaterinadoubleboilerorinastainless-steelbowlsetontopofapotfilledwith1inchofsimmeringwater.(Thebowlshouldnotbetouchingthewaterbutshouldrestdirectlyaboveit.)Stirvigorouslyuntiltheguavapastehasmeltedandyouhaveaverythick,smoothsauce,3to4minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocool.

5.ASSEMBLEANDSTEAMTHEGUAVADUFF:Beforeassemblingtheguavaduff,reviewtheJelly-RollShapeandthePuddingBasinSetup.

6.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

7.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

8.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutterandcoatingwithsugar.

9.Placethedoughonaflouredsurface,shapeitintoabluntlog,thenrollitoutintoan8×12-inch rectangleabout¼ inch thick.Sprinklewith flour if itgetssticky.Spreadtheguavasauceontopofthedoughrectangle,leavinganarrowborder on all sides. Startingwith one of the longer sides, begin to roll up thedough,pinchingtheendstosealasyougo.Pinchandpressthefaredgeofthedoughalongthelengthofthelogtoseal.Pulltogetherandpresstheendsofthelog together to make a doughnut shape, then gently lift and place it in thepreparedpuddingbasin.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthelog.Coverthebasinwiththedampmuslinandsecureit tightlywiththestring.Tie the opposite corners of themuslin into handles over the top of thepudding.

10.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforatleast1½hours,orupto2½hoursforapuddingthat’sevenricherinflavorandtexture.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

11.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholdertograsptheclothhandle,

carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallowtheguavadufftocoolfor5minutes.Removethestring,cloth,andpaper.Unmoldbyinvertingitontoaplate.SliceandservewithageneroushelpingoftheHard Sauce.Guava duff can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.Reheat in asteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

HARDSAUCE

MAKESABOUT½CUP

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1/3cupsuperfinesugar(orgranulatedsugarpulsedinacleanspiceorcoffeegrinderfor1to2minutes)1tablespoonbrandyordarkrum

Placethebutterandsugarinasmallbowlandwhiskuntilthesugarhasmostlydissolved and themixture is light and creamy. Slowlywhisk in the brandy orrumuntilcombined.Scoopintoasmallservingdishandchilluntilsolid,about30minutes,beforeusing.Hardsaucecanbemade inadvanceandkept tightlywrappedintherefrigeratorforupto1week.

PotatoDumplingswithCabbageLayersKáposztásGombóc(Hungary)

SERVES4(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

Welovethesetastycabbagedumplings.Thepotatodoughissoftandsavory,theshreddedcabbagesweetandsomewhatcrunchy.Thesedumplingsaregreatwithalittleoilorbutter,butherewefinishthemunderahotbroilerwithsomemeltedcheese on top. A good sprinkling of fried bread crumbs (see Glossary ofIngredients)canbeaddedforacrispycrunchnomatterhowyouservethem.Asharper-tastingversionof thisdumplingcanbemadewith thesameamountofsauerkrautoracombinationofsauerkrautandfreshcabbage.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheJelly-RollShape.

FortheFilling

3tablespoonsgrapeseedorotherneutraloil1mediumyellowonion,choppedfine¾poundgreencabbage (about½smallcabbage),cored,cut intowedges,slicedverythin,andhand-wilted(seeTips)½teaspoonsweetpaprika½teaspoonsugar¼teaspoonsalt

FortheDough

2mediumbakingpotatoes,suchasrusset½teaspoonsalt1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted1largeegg,beaten

ForCooking

¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg2cupsgratedSwisscheese,preferablyEmmenthaler

Equipment

PotatoricerLarge,widebowltoholdthecookeddumplings8-inchsquareorsimilar-sizebakingpan

1.MAKETHEFILLING:Heattheoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonionandcook,stirringfrequently,untilsoft,about4minutes.Addthecabbage,paprika,sugar,and¼teaspoonsaltandstiruntilthemixturehasbrownedslightly,about8minutes.Removefromtheheat,spreadthecabbagemixtureoutonaplate,andallowittocooltoroomtemperature.

2.MAKETHEDOUGH:Meanwhile,placethepotatoesinasmallpot,pourinenoughwatertocover,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattomedium,andsimmeruntilfork-tender,about30minutes.Drainthepotatoesandplaceonafoldedkitchentowel.Oncetheyarecoolenoughtohandle,peelofftheirskins,cutthemintochunks,andpressthroughthericerintoalargebowl.

3.Sprinklethe½teaspoonsaltand¾cupoftheflouroverthepotato,keepingtheremaining¼cuphandy.Tosstogetherwithyourfingersuntilmixedevenly.Add the butter and egg and work the dough with your hands until it comestogetherandisnolongercrumbly.Thisisadelicatedoughthatneedstobefirmenoughtoberolledout.If thedoughistoosoftorsticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime.Kneadthedoughinthebowlfor1minute.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingthekáposztásgombóc,reviewtheJelly-RollShape.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

6.Dividethedoughinhalf.Placeonepieceonaflouredsurface,shapeitintoablunt log, then roll it out into a 7 × 10-inch rectangle about ¼ inch thick.Sprinklewith flour if it gets sticky.Scatter the cabbagemixture on top of thedoughrectangle,leavinganarrowborderonallsides.Lightlypressthemixtureintothesurfaceofthedough.Startingwithoneofthelongersides,begintorollupthedough,pinchingtheendstosealasyougo.Pinchandpressthefaredgeofthedoughalongthelengthofthelogtoseal.Repeatwiththesecondhalfofthedoughandtheremainingfilling.

7.Cut thedoughyendsoffboth logswithaserratedknife (abouta½inchoffeachend)thencuteachloginto8equalpieces.Lightlypressthe2cutsidesofonepieceintoashallowpileofall-purposeflour.Rollthesliceintoaballwhileusingjustenoughpressuretopushandpackthelayersclosertogether.Placeonthepreparedtrayandrepeatwiththeremainingslices.

8.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhigh heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Gently drop thedumplings,onebyone,intothewater,stirringoccasionallytopreventsticking.Cookuntilthedumplingsfloattothesurface,about3minutes,thencookfor2minuteslonger.

9.Removethedumplingswithaslottedspoon,placetheminthelargebowl,andallowthemtocoolslightly.

10.BROILTHEDUMPLINGS:Turnonthebroilerandlightlycoatthebakingpanwithoil.

11. Arrange the dumplings in one snug layer in the pan. Sprinkle with the

nutmeg and grated cheese. Place under the broiler, cook until the cheese isbubblyandgoldenbrown,3to5minutes,andserve.

JohnintheSackJanindeZak(Holland)

SERVES4TO6(MAKES1DUMPLING)

This steamed bread is soft, slightly sweet, and modestly dotted with bits ofraisinsandcandiedcitrusrind.It’sdeliciousasaside toasavorymealorasasweetsnackwithjam.LeftoverscanbeslicedandusedtomakeexcellentFrenchtoast. Because the dough rises for the second time inside the “sack,” it’simportanttoleaveplentyofroomforittoexpand.Somerecipesfinishthebreadbyplacingit intheovenjustlongenoughtoformacrust,butwepreferitsoftinsideandout.

ThisdumplingiswrappedusingthePuddingBagFold.

FortheDumpling

¼ cupwarmwater, preferably nonchlorinated, such as distilled or springwater¼ teaspoon light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary ofIngredients)1¼teaspoonsactivedryyeast(about½packet)2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour½teaspoonsalt1largeegg,beaten½cupmilk,lukewarm1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,melted½cupraisins¼cupveryfinelychoppedcandiedlemonpeel

ForCooking

Unsaltedbuttertocoatthemuslin

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin10-inchlengthofkitchenstring8-to10-quartsteamerpot

1. PROOF THE YEAST:Pour thewarmwater intoasmallbowl, stir in thesugarand theyeast,andprooffor15minutes.Thesurfaceshouldbecomefoamy.Ifnot,startagainwithanewyeastpacket.

2.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place1¾cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addtheyeastmixture,salt,egg,milk,andbutterandmixuntilallthe liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into onemanageableball.If thedoughissticky,workinsomeoftheremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

3.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor3to5minutes.Returnthedough to thebowl,coverwithadampkitchen towel,andsetaside inawarm,darkplaceuntilthedoughdoublesinsize,1½to2hours.UsetheProofingPotSetup(Tips)ifthetemperatureoftheroomisnotideal.

4.While thedough is rising,place theraisins inasmallbowl,pour inenoughwarmwatertocoverby1inch,andsetaside.

5. Punch down the dough, place it on a floured surface, knead once or twice,then pat it out into a 12-inch round.Drain the raisins, shaking off any excesswater, and scatter them across the dough round.Do the samewith the lemonpeel.Foldthedoughinhalfsothatitenclosesthefruit, thenfoldthedoughinhalfonemoretime.Kneaduntilalltheraisinsandthelemonhavebeenworkedthroughout the dough and the dough is smooth and elastic, 3 to 4minutes. Ifpiecesoffruitbegintospillout,justworkthembackintothedough.

6.ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLING:BeforeassemblingtheJanindezak,reviewthePuddingBagFold.

7.Soakthemuslinunderrunningwater,wringitout,andspreaditoutonaflatsurface.Rubonesideofthedampmuslinwithbutter,leavinganarrowborderonallsides.Centerthedoughballontopofthemuslin.Gatherupthecornersofthemuslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag.Asyou collect themuslinand prepare it for tying, leave it very baggy so that the dumpling will haveenoughroomtorise.Becertain,however,togripthemuslinlowenoughtoleavenoopengaps.Tie thegatheredmuslin tightly,returnthewrappeddoughto thebowl,andplaceagaininawarm,darkplace(orbackintotheproofingpot)andallowthedoughtoexpandandfilloutthecloth,1to2hours.

8.STEAMTHEDUMPLING:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothepotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Placethewrappeddoughinthebasket.Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat tomedium, and cook for 2hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

9.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.RemovetheJanindezak,placeitonaplate,unwrap,andallowittocoolslightly.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.Janindezakcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.

ClassicChristmasPudding

(England)

SERVES12(MAKES1DUMPLING)

This pudding is often made months in advance and aged either at roomtemperature or in the refrigerator until Christmas. It may be soaked in liquorduringtheagingprocess,bastedwithitperiodically,orsimplylefttodevelopitsflavorsonitsown.Forthoseofuswhoarenotdisciplinedenoughtotakecareofa pudding for weeks or months, rest assured that a Christmas pudding that’scookedandeatenonthesamedayisstillextremelydeliciousandjustasproper.Thisreciperequiresan8-to10-hourcookingtime.

ThisdumplingismadeusingthePuddingBasinSetup.

FortheDumpling

1crisp,tartapple,suchasGrannySmith1cupdriedcurrants2cupsraisins½cupfinelychoppedcandiedlemonpeel½cupfinelychoppedcandiedorangepeel1cupamberale2tablespoonsbrandyordarkrum8tablespoons(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature2/3 cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary ofIngredients)1tablespoontreacleormolasses6largeeggs,atroomtemperature,beaten

2 cups coarse fresh crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary ofIngredients)¼cupunbleachedall-purposeflour1tablespoonPuddingSpice1/8teaspoonsalt½poundveryfinelychoppedcoldsuetor4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,frozen,coarselygrated,andkeptcold

ForCookingandServing

Unsaltedbutterandsugartocoatthepuddingbasin1recipeVanillaCustardSauceorHardSauce(Tips)

Equipment

24-inchsquareofmuslin40-inchlengthofkitchenstring10-to12-cuppuddingbasinPotlargeenoughtoholdthebasinwhencoveredParchmentpaper

1.MAKE THE PUDDINGMIXTURE 24 TO 72 HOURS IN ADVANCE:Peelandcoretheappleandcoarselygrateitoveralargebowl.Addthecurrants,raisins,andcandiedlemonandorangepeels.Stirinthealeandbrandy.Coverandsoakatroomtemperaturefor6to8hours.Stirthefruitoccasionallyforevensoaking.

2. Place the butter, muscovado sugar, and treacle in another large bowl andwhiskvigorouslyuntilmostofthesugarhasdissolved.Continuewhiskingwhileslowlypouringintheeggs.

3. Combine the bread crumbs, flour, Pudding Spice, and salt in another largebowl. Add the suet and mix it throughout the bread crumb mixture whilebreakingapartanyclumps. Ifusingbutter, rub it into thebreadcrumbmixture

until it looks likecoarsecornmeal.Pour in thebutterandeggmixtureand thesoakedfruitalongwithitsliquid.Usingyourhands,mixuntilcombined.Coverandrefrigerateovernightforupto3days.

4.Removethemixturefromtherefrigerator.Firmlycompressitintoaballwithyourhands. If themixture isnotsticking together,work ina littlemorealeorbandy. If liquid has collected in the bowl, add a little more flour and workeverythingbackintothemixture.

5. ASSEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before assembling the pudding, review the PuddingBasinSetup.

6.Soakthemuslinandthestringunderrunningwater.Wringthemoutandsetaside.

7.Placetheemptypuddingbasininthepot.Pourwaterintothespacebetweenthebasinandthepotuntilitcomesthree-quartersofthewayupthesidesofthebasin.Removethebasinandbringthewatertoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattolowforagentlesimmer.

8.Meanwhile,makesure the interiorof thebasin isdrybeforerubbing itwithbutter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the pudding mixture into the basinwithoutpackingitdownandsmoothoutthesurfaceusingwetfingers.Cutoutaroundofparchmentpaperandplaceitontopofthepuddingmixture.Coverthebasinwiththedampmuslinandsecureittightlywiththestring.Tietheoppositecornersofthemuslinintohandlesoverthetopofthepudding.

9.Usingtongsorawoodenspoon,pushafoldedcloth,suchasastandardwhitecottonnapkin,intothesimmeringwaterandarrangeittolieflatonthebottomofthepot.Usingtheclothhandle,carefullylowerthebasinintothepot,cover,andsimmerforat least8 to10hours.Check thewater levelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Usingapotholdertograsptheclothhandle,carefully remove thebasin from thepot, put it on a foldedkitchen towel, andallowthepudding tocoolfor10minutes.Removethestring,cloth,andpaper.Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve hotwithVanillaCustardSauce or Hard Sauce. If eating the pudding within 2 weeks, allow it to coolcompletely,andkeepittightlywrappedintherefrigerator.Reheatthepuddingina steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If you are aging thepudding, allow it to cool completely, and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap andrefrigerate for up to 3months. Brush the puddingwith ale or brandy twice aweek, if you like, and rewrap tightly. To cook, steam it for 2 to 3 hours in asteamerpotorusetheSteamerPlateSetup(Tips).

ChocolateTamalesTamalesdeChocolate(Mexico)SERVES4TO8(MAKES16DUMPLINGS)

The combination of lime-treated corn and Mexican chocolate creates anunusually light yet satisfyingly rich chocolate dessert. Like Tamales Dulces(May),TamalesdeChocolatecanbeenhancedwithbitsoffruitornutsaddedtothefilling.Pecansareanespeciallyexcellentaddition,butbesuretotoastthemlightlybeforehand.

ThesedumplingsarewrappedusingtheSingle-HuskTamaleFold.

FortheBatter

2/3cupnonhydrogenatedvegetableshortening,atroomtemperature2cupsmasaharina1/3cupcocoapowder2/3cupsugar1teaspoonbakingpowder1/8teaspoonsalt½cupwarmwater

FortheFilling

6ouncesMexicanchocolate,suchasIbarra,choppedfine(about1cup)

ForAssembly

20to25prepareddriedcornhusks(seeGlossaryofEquipment)Sixteen12-inchlengthsofkitchenstringfortyingthetamales8-to10-quartsteamerpot

Equipment

Electrichandmixer

1.MAKE THE BATTER:Whip the shortening in amedium bowlwith the handmixer atmediumspeeduntillightandglossy,about5minutes.

2.Combinethemasaharina,cocoapowder,sugar,bakingpowder,andsaltinalargemixingbowl.

3. Pour the warmwater into themasa harinamixture andmixwith the handmixer at low speed. Raise the speed to high and mix in the shortening onespoonfulat a time.Continue tomixathighspeeduntil thebatter isvery lightandfluffy,about10minutes.Coverandsetasidefor30minutes.(Youcanalsomake the batter 1 day in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealedcontainer.)

4.ASSEMBLETHETAMALES:Beforeassemblingthetamales,reviewtheSingle-HuskTamaleFold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, chocolate, thehusks,andtheties.

6.Loosenupthebatterbywhiskingitfor2to3minutes.Theconsistencyshouldbesomethingsimilar toagrainyanddensemousse. If thebatter is toostiff towhisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer andfluffier.

7.Pickoutthebest16husks.layflat1husk,smoothsideup.center2roundedtablespoonsofthebatterontopofthehuskandspreaditouttotherightuntilitforms a rectangle about 4 × 2½ inches. Place 1 tablespoon of the Mexicanchocolateontopofthelefthalfoftherectangleonly.Foldtherightsideofthehuskover,sandwichingthefillingbetweenthetwolayersofthebatter.Thenfoldtheleftsideofthehuskoverthetop.Foldtheendsofthehuskoverasfirmlyasyou can to create a neat rectangular package. Tie the package in a crisscrosspattern toprevent thehusk fromunfoldingandplaceon the lined tray.Repeatuntilyouhave16tamales.

8.Setasidethenumberoftamalesthatyouwouldliketocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

9.STEAMTHETAMALES:Removethebasketfromthesteamerpot,add2inchesofwatertothe pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the tamalesupright,leaningorlooselywedgedagainsteachotherinthebasket.Ballupandstick inanyextrahusksorparchmentpaper tokeep the tamalesproppedup ifneeded.Blanket the tamaleswith the remaininghusks.Place thebasket in thepot,reducetheheattomedium,cover,andsteamfor1½hours.Checkthewaterlevelevery30minutesandreplenishwithboilingwaterasneeded.(Ifsteamingfrozentamales,placethemdirectlyinthebasketandcooktheminthesteamerpotfor2hours.Donotallowthetamalestothawbeforecooking.)

10.Removethepotfromtheheat.Carefullyremovethebasketandplaceitonafoldedkitchentowel.Letthetamalescoolslightly,cutoffthestrings,andserve.It’sbestnottoopenthetamalestoosoonandtopeelbackthehusksjustbeforeeatingsothattheystaymoistandwarm.

SiberianMeatDumplingsPelmeni(Russia)

SERVES6TO8

PelmeniaretraditionallymadeinlargebatchesandleftoutsidetofreezeduringthefrigidRussianwinters.Storingthesemeatdumplingsoutdoors,ontheporchor in the yard, made them readily available whenever a quick meal, or anadditiontoameal,wasneeded.Thefactthatthesedumplingswerefrozenbeforebeingcookedaddedacharacteristicfirmnesstothedough.Inkeepingwiththistradition, this recipecalls for thedumplings tobe frozensolidbeforecooking.Theyareusuallyservedinamushroomorbeefbrothorabutterymustardsauce(recipebelow)andlotsoffreshlycrackedblackpepper.

FortheDough

4cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plussomeextrafordusting1teaspoonsalt2largeeggs,beaten

FortheFilling

1smallyellowonion,choppedfine½poundfreshlygroundbeef¼poundfreshlygroundpork2garliccloves,choppedveryfine1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheSauce*

6tablespoons(¾stick)unsaltedbutter3tablespoonsdarkbrownmustard3tablespoonsdistilledwhitevinegar¼teaspoonsaltFreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Equipment

2-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEDOUGH:Place3¾cupsoftheflourinalargebowlandkeeptheremaining¼cuphandy.Addthe1teaspoonsaltandmixwell.Addtheeggsand1½cupswaterandmixuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Workthedoughwithyourhands into one manageable ball. If the dough is sticky, work in some of theremainingflour,alittleatatime,untilitnolongerstickstoyourfingers.

2.Placethedoughonaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor4to5minutes.Returnthedoughballtothebowl,coverwithakitchentowel,andletrestfor30minutes.

3.MAKETHEFILLING:Pulsetheonioninafoodprocessoronceortwicetobreakitdownslightly.Placeitinasmallbowl,mixintheremainingfillingingredients,andsetaside.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

5.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equalpieces,andset7ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaball,thenrollitoutuntilit’s1/16inchthick,eventhinnerwouldbeideal.(Fortipsonhowtorolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Takeyourtimeandsprinkle

withflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

6.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually28to30.Placetheroundsinasinglelayeronthepreparedtray.Repeatwiththeremainingdoughpieces.Keeptheroundscoveredwithakitchentowelasyouwork.Scrapscannotbereusedbecausedoughrolledoutthisthinistoodrytorecombine.

7.Layflat4to8doughrounds.Brushhalfofthemwithaverythincoatingofwater tomake them sticky enough to seal. Place½ teaspoon of filling in thecenterofeachdampenedround.Topeachspoonfuloffillingwithanunbrushedround,creatinglittlesandwiches.Pinchtogethertheedges,pushingoutanyair,andseal.Ifdesired,trimtheedgesforamoretailoredlook.Placetheassembleddumplingsinasinglelayeronthepreparedtrayandkeepthemcoveredwithakitchen towel while you work. Once you have assembled the first batch ofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

8.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceinthefreezeruntiltheyarecompletelyfrozen,3to4hours.Pickoutthenumberofdumplingsthatyouwanttocookandkeeptherestfrozenforupto6months(seeTips).

9.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwater,placeoverhighheat,andbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

10.Gentlydropafewdozenofthefrozendumplings,afewatatime,intothesimmeringwater. Stir carefully to prevent sticking.Cookuntil all of themarefloating,3to4minutes,thencookfor4minuteslonger.

11.Removethepelmeniwithaslottedspoon,placetheminthelargebowl,anddrizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook anyremainingpelmeniandplacetheminthebowlwithanotherladleofthecookingliquid.Keepthemwarmwhileyoumakethesauce.

12.MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS:Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepanovermediumheat.Donotbrown.Immediatelypour thebutter intoa largeservingbowlandwhisk in themustard,vinegar,and¼teaspoonsalt.Drain thepelmeniandaddthem to the sauce. Toss gently to coat and serve with freshly ground blackpepper.

ChestnutRavioliwithSageButterSauceRaviolidiCastagne(Italy)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT60DUMPLINGS)

ThesedumplingsareatraditionatChristmasinItaly,andtheydoamagnificentjob of showing off the chestnut’s delicate texture and nutty flavor. First thechestnutsaresimmeredandpeeled,ataskthatissatisfyingandsweetsmelling.Then they are combinedwith prosciutto, apple, crushed amaretti cookies, andcinnamon.Driedorcannedchestnutscanalsobeusedinthisrecipe,buttheyarenotnearlyaswonderfulasfreshchestnuts.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheHalf-MoonFold.

FortheFilling

10largechestnuts¼cupfinelychoppedprosciutto(about4thinslices)¼cupwhole-milkricotta3tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmesancheese1amaretticookie,finelycrushed(optional)1teaspoonfreshlemonjuiceplus½teaspoongratedzest1/8teaspoongroundcinnamonPinchoffreshlygratednutmeg¼teaspoonsalt1/8teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper½smallcrisp,tartapple,suchasGrannySmith

FortheDough

1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce)dough,preferablymadewhilethefillingisbeingchilled,butnomorethan1hourinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheSauce*

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks8to10freshsageleavesSaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Equipment

2½-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKE THE FILLING:Fillasmallpothalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat. Cut a½-inch slit into the shell of each chestnut and drop them into thewater.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor1hour.Drainthechestnuts,placetheminasmallbowl,andallowthemtocoolslightly.

2.Oncethechestnutsarecoolenoughtohandle,peelofftheirshellsandskinsand pick out any discolored pieces. Crush the chestnuts in a mediummixingbowl with a potato masher until just slightly chunky. Mix in the proscuitto,ricotta,Parmesan,amaretticrumbs,lemonjuice,lemonzest,cinnamon,nutmeg,salt,andpepper.

3. Peel, core, and finely grate the apple. Add it to the chestnut mixture andgently toss with your fingers until everything is mixed evenly. Cover andrefrigeratefor30to60minutesbeforeassemblingthedumplings.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Beforeassemblingtheravioli,reviewtheHalf-MoonFold.

5.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

6.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceinto a ball, then roll it out until it’s 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Sprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

7.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually12to15.Scraps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

8.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Centeraroundedteaspoonoffillingontopofeachround,foldeachneatlyinhalf,pushingoutanyair,andpinchtoseal.Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place theassembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep themcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyouwork.Onceyouhaveassembledthefirstbatchofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

9.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

10.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringittoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

11.Gentlydropupto20dumplings,afewata time, intothesimmeringwaterand stir gently to prevent sticking.Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3minutes, then cook for 3minutes longer. (If cooking frozen ravioli, add themdirectlytothesimmeringwaterandincreasethecookingtimeby1minute.Do

notallowtheraviolitothawbeforecooking.)

12.Usingaslottedspoon,removethedumplings,placetheminthelargebowl,and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook theremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquid.Reserve1cupofthecookingliquidforthesauce.

13. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS:Melt the butter in a large skillet over low heatwithout browning. Once the butter has melted completely, raise the heat tomedium and stir in the sage. Cook until the butter and the sage just begin tobrown, about 2minutes.Carefully and quickly pour the reserved cupof pastawater. Continue simmering until the sauce has been reduced by half, about 5minutes.

14.Drain the ravioli and turn them into thepan.Tossand stir for1minute towarmthrough,sprinklewithsaltandpepper,andserve.

Chicken-FilledDumplingsinanEscaroleSoupCappellettiinBrodo(Italy)

SERVES4TO6(MAKESABOUT80DUMPLINGS)

This popular Christmas soup is filled with tiny, savory dumplings and silkyshredsofchoppedescarole.Thebodyofthesedumplingscomesfromchicken,but it is thebitsofcuredmeatorsausagethatmakesthemdistinctivelylavish.Mortadella,aporksausagesimilartobologna,isaddedinthisrecipe,alongwithasmallamountoffreshpork.Ittakestimeandplanningtomakethem,aprojectmadeeasierbythehelpoffamilyandfriends.

ThesedumplingsaremadeusingtheBelly-ButtonFold.

FortheFilling

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintochunks1smallskinlesschickenbreastwithbones¼poundbonelessporkloin¼poundmortadella½cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese1largeegg,beaten2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves¼teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheDough

1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce)dough,preferablymadewhilethefillingisbeingchilled,butnomorethan

1hourinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheSoup*

1recipe(2quarts)BeefandChickenBroth1smallheadescarole,trimmedandcutinto1-inchpieces1teaspoonsalt

Equipment

2-inchroundcookiecutterLarge,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1.MAKETHEFILLING:Placethebutterand1cupwaterinasmallpotandbringtoaboilover high heat.Add the chicken and pork, cover, reduce the heat to low, andsimmer for 5minutes. Flip the chicken and pork over, cover, and cook for 5minuteslonger.Drainandplacethemeatinamediumbowl.

2.Oncethemeatiscoolenoughtohandle,pullthechickenmeatoffthebonesanddiscardthebones.Chopthechickenandtheporkintoveryfinepiecesandreturn it to the bowl. Finely chop themortadella andmix it into the choppedmeat.MixintheParmesan,egg,parsley,¼teaspoonsalt,andpepper.Coverandrefrigeratefor30to60minutesbeforeassemblingthedumplings.

3. ASSEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before assembling the cappelletti, review the Belly-ButtonFold.

4.Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

5.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoaball, then roll itoutuntil it’s1/16 inch thick.Thisdoughshouldnotbethicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Takeyourtimeandsprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutesbeforecuttingoutrounds.

6.Usingthecookiecutter,cutoutasmanyroundsasyoucan,usually16to20.Scraps cannot be reused, because dough is rolled out this thin is too dry torecombine.

7.Lay flat1 to5dough rounds.Brusheach roundwithavery thincoatingofwatertomakeitstickyenoughtoseal.Placearoundedteaspoonoffillinginthecenterof each round, then foldeach roundneatly inhalf,pushingout anyair,and pinch to seal. Pick up one of the half-moons and join and pinch its endstogether behind thebaseor “belly”of thedumpling.Dab a littlewater on theends, ifneeded, forabetterseal.Repeatwith theremaininghalf-moons.Placetheassembleddumplings ina single layeron theprepared trayandkeep themcovered with a kitchen towel. Once you have assembled the first batch ofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

8.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

9.COOK THE DUMPLINGS:Pourthebrothintoamediumpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Stirintheescaroleand1teaspoonsalt,cover,reducetheheattoverylow,andkeepatabaresimmeruntilthedumplingsarereadytobeadded.

10.Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattomediumforasteadysimmer.

11.Gentlydropafewdozencappellettiintothesimmeringwater.Stircarefullytopreventsticking.Cookuntilallofthemarefloating,2to3minutes,thencookfor 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen cappelletti, add them directly to thesimmeringwaterand increase thecooking timeby1minute.Donotallow thecappellettitothawbeforecooking.)

12.Usingaslottedspoon,removethedumplings,placetheminthelargebowl,and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook anyremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquid.

13.Drain the cappelletti and add them to the hot soup.Cook for 1minute towarmthroughandserve.

DumplingsStuffedwith“Stewed”BreadCrumbsAnolinidiParma(Italy)

SERVES4TO8(MAKESABOUT50DUMPLINGS)

Insidethesesmallpocketsofdoughisacreamyfillingofbreadcrumbsthathavebeen soaked in a super-rich beef broth.Stracotto ismeat that is slow roasteduntilitiswellbeyondfork-tender.Forthesedumplings,theroastingprocesscangoonalldaywiththeideabeingtosacrificetheediblenessofthemeatinordertocreatealushandconcentratedsauce.Amoreaccommodatingcookingtimeof2½to3hourswillstillprovideyouwithadelicioussauceforyourbreadcrumbsand will also leave the meat perfectly cooked and ready to be eaten insubsequentmeals.

FortheStracottoSauce

4tablespoons(½stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintochunks2poundsbeefrumproast1mediumcarrot,choppedcoarse1celeryrib,choppedcoarse¼cupredwine6cupsBeefandChickenBroth1teaspoontomatopaste

FortheFilling

3 cups coarse fresh crustless white bread crumbs (see Glossary ofIngredients)½cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese

¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FortheDough

1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce)dough,preferablymadewhilethefillingisbeingchilled,butnolongerthan1hourinadvanceUnbleachedall-purposeflourfordusting

FortheSoup*

1recipe(2quarts)BeefandChickenBroth1teaspoonsalt

Equipment

Large,widebowltoholdthedumplingscookedinbatches

1. MAKE THE SAUCE FOR THE FILLING 3 TO 8 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Melt the butter in a medium pot overmedium-highheat.Addtherumproastandcookuntilitsundersidehasbrowned,5to6minutes.Turnthebeefandbrowntheothersides,3to4minuteslongeroneach side. Carefullymove themeat to a bowl, leaving the buttery fat behind.Addthecarrotandcelerytothepotandcookfor3minutes,stirringoccasionally.Pour in the wine and scrape up any bits from the bottom of the pot with awooden spoon.Return thebeef and anyof its drippingsback into thepot andpourin4cupsofthebroth.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor2½to3hours.Turnthemeateveryhalfhourandpourin½cupoftheremainingbrotheach time. (You can cook the beef for up to 8 hours for an even richer,moreintensely flavored sauce.Meat that is cooked this longwill be dry, have verylittleflavor,andshouldbediscarded.)

2.Removethemeatandthevegetables,place inabowl,andsetaside tocool.Strainthesauceintoapan,stirinthetomatopaste,andplaceovermediumheat.

Simmer,uncovered,until thesaucereduces toabout1/3cup,10to15minutes.Remove it from theheat andallow it to cool slightly. (Youcanalsomake thesauceinadvanceandkeepitrefrigeratedinatightlysealedcontainerforupto1week.Warmthesauceslightlybeforeaddingittothebreadcrumbs.)

3.MAKETHEFILLING:Place2½cupsofthebreadcrumbsinamediumbowlandkeeptheremaining½cuphandy.Drizzlethewarmsauceoverthebreadcrumbsandstiruntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Thismixtureisjustthickenoughtoholdits shapewhen scooped upwith a spoon. If it is toowet,mix in some of theremainingbreadcrumbs,alittleatatime.MixintheParmesanandthepepper.Coverandrefrigeratefor30to60minutesbeforeassemblingthedumplings.

4.ASSEMBLETHEDUMPLINGS:Lineatraywithakitchentowelandsprinklewithalittleflour.Havereadythedoughandthefilling.

5.Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equalpieces,andset3ofthemasideunderakitchentowel.Shapetheremainingpieceintoabluntlog,thenrollitoutintoa10-inchsquare.Thisdoughshouldnotbethicker than 1/16 inch, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to rolldoughoutthin,seeTips.)Takeyourtimeandsprinklewithflourifitgetssticky.Lettherolled-outdoughrelaxforacoupleofminutes.

6.Trimtheroundededges,creatingacleanersquareshape.Cutthedoughinto2-inch strips, then cut again going across the strips every 2 inches to form 25squares. Place the squares in a single layer on the prepared tray. Keep thesquares covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Scraps cannot be reusedbecausedoughrolledoutthisthinistoodrytorecombine.

7.Layflat4to8doughsquares.Brushhalfofthemwithaverythincoatingofwatertomakethemstickyenoughtoseal.Placearoundedteaspoonoffillinginthe center of each dampened square. Top each spoonful of filling with anunbrushed square, lining up the corners to create little sandwiches. Pinch theedgesof the squares together,pushingout anyair, and seal.Daba littlewateralongtheedges,ifneeded,forabetterseal.Youcantrimorcrimptheedgesforamore tailored look. Place the assembled dumplings in a single layer on the

preparedtrayandkeepthemcoveredwithakitchentowelwhileyoucontinuetofill the remaining squares. Once you have assembled the first batch ofdumplings,continuewiththeremainingdoughandfilling.

8.Coverthetrayofassembleddumplingsandplaceintherefrigeratorfor30to60minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough,making thedumplingsfirmandtoothsomewhencookedinsteadofpuffyandsoft.Setasidethenumberofdumplings thatyouwould like tocookandkeep therest frozenforupto6months(seeTips).

9.COOKTHEDUMPLINGS:Pourthe2quartsofbrothintoamediumpot,stirinthesalt,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattoverylow,andkeepatagentlesimmeruntilthedumplingsareadded.

10.Fillalargepothalfwaywithsaltedwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop a few dozendumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking.Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minuteslonger.(Ifcookingfrozenanolini,addthemdirectlytothesimmeringwaterandincreasethecookingtimeby1minute.Donotallowtheanolinitothawbeforecooking.)

11.Usingaslottedspoon,removethedumplings,placetheminthelargebowl,and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook theremaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of thecookingliquid.

12.Draintheanoliniandturnthemintothesimmeringbroth.Cookfor1minutetowarmthroughandserve.

Broths

CHICKENBROTHWITHVARIATIONS

PORKBROTHWITHVARIATIONS

BEEFBROTHWITHVARIATIONS

BEEFANDCHICKENBROTH

ChickenBrothMAKESABOUT2QUARTSWITH5TO6CUPSSHREDDEDMEAT

One 4-to 5-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces, skin removed, andtrimmedofexcessfat2teaspoonssalt2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns

1.Placethechicken,salt,andpeppercornsinalargepot.Pourin10cupswaterandbringittoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor2hours.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.

2. Remove from the heat, take out the chicken pieceswith a slotted spoon ortongs, and place them in a bowl to cool. Strain the broth through a sieve andskimoffthefat.Chillingthebrothmakesremovingthefateasier.

3.Once thechicken iscoolenough tohandle,pull themeatoff thebonesandtear it into bite-sized pieces.Discard the bones.Measure out enough broth orchickenforyourchosenrecipeandkeeptherestrefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6months.

WithMexicanFlavorsAddthefollowingwhenaddingthechicken:

1whiteonion,unpeeledandquartered3garliccloves,unpeeledandcrushed

WithPuertoRicanFlavorsAddthefollowingwhenaddingthechicken:

1yellowonion,unpeeledandquartered2greenbellpeppers,coredandquartered4freshculantro(recao)stems

WithChineseFlavorsAddthefollowingwhenaddingthechicken:

2largecarrots,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces1smallheadnapacabbage,cutinto1-inchribbons

PorkBroth

MAKESABOUT2QUARTSWITH6TO7CUPSSHREDDEDMEAT

4to5poundsbonelessporkshoulderorbuttmeat,cut into largeserving-sizepieces2teaspoonssalt2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns

1.Placethepork,salt,andpeppercornsinalargepot.Pourin10cupswaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor3hours.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.

2.Removefromtheheat,takeouttheporkpieceswithaslottedspoonortongs,andplaceinabowltocool.Strainthebroththroughasieveandskimoffthefat.Chillingthebrothmakesremovingthefateasier.

3.Oncetheporkiscoolenoughtohandle,pullthemeatoffthebonesandtearitintobite-sizedpieces.Discardthebones.Measureoutenoughbrothorporkforyourchosenrecipeandkeeptherestrefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6months.

WithMexicanFlavorsAddthefollowingwhenaddingthepork:

1whiteonion,unpeeledandquartered3garliccloves,unpeeledandcrushed

BeefBroth

MAKESABOUT2QUARTSWITH5TO6CUPSSHREDDEDMEAT

3poundsleanbeefstewmeat,suchasrumporbrisket,cutintoserving-sizepieces3poundsmeatybeefbones,suchasshank,rib,orneck2teaspoonssalt2teaspoonblackpeppercorns

1.Placethestewmeat,beefbones,salt,andpeppercornsinalargepot.Pourin3quartswaterandbringittoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor3to4hours.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.

2.Removefromtheheat,takeoutthebeefpieceswithaslottedspoonortongs,andplacetheminabowltocool.Strainthebroththroughasieveandskimoffthefat.Chillingthebrothmakesremovingthefateasier.

3.Oncethebeefiscoolenoughtohandle,pullthemeatoffthebonesandtearintobite-sizedpieces.Discardthebones.Measureoutenoughbrothorbeefforyourchosenrecipeandkeeptherestrefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6months.

WithBritishFlavorsAddthefollowingwhenaddingthebeef:

1largeyellowonion,unpeeledandquartered1leek,rinsedcleanandcutintolargepieces

3carrots,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces3celeryribs,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces3freshthymesprigs½bunchfreshflat-leafparsley1bayleaf3wholecloves

WithHungarianFlavorsAddthefollowingwhenaddingthebeef:

1largeyellowonion,unpeeledandquartered3carrots,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces3parsnips,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces1kohlrabi,quartered1celeryroot,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces2garliccloves,crushed½bunchfreshflat-leafparsley

WithGermanFlavorsAddthefollowingwhenaddingthebeef:

2leeks,rinsedcleanandcutintolargepieces1smallyellowonion,unpeeledandquartered3carrots,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces3smallparsnips,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces1smallceleryrootorturnip,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces½bunchfreshflat-leafparsley

WithAmericanFlavorsAddthefollowingwhenaddingthebeef:

3poundsmeatybeefbones1mediumonion,unpeeledandquartered2carrots,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces2celeryribs,cutintolargepieces½bunchfreshflat-leafparsley2celeryribs,cutintolargepieces

5to6freshthymesprigs

BeefandChickenBroth

MAKESABOUT2QUARTSWITH5TO6CUPSSHREDDEDMEAT

1poundleanbeefstewmeat,suchasrumporbrisket,cutintoserving-sizepieces2poundsmeatybeefbones,suchasshank,rib,orneck2poundschicken(about½chicken),cutintoservingpieces,skinremoved,andtrimmedofexcessfat2teaspoonssalt1smallyellowonion,unpeeledandquartered1largecarrot,unpeeledandcutintolargepieces1celeryrib,cutintolargepieces2plumtomatoes,quartered1bayleaf½bunchfreshflat-leafparsley2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns

1.Placeall theingredientsinalargepotwith3quartswater.Bringit toaboiloverhighheat,cover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmerfor3to4hours.Skimthefrothoffthesurfacewithaspoon.

2. Remove from the heat, take out the beef and chicken pieceswith a slottedspoonortongs,andplacetheminabowltocool.Strainthebroththroughasieveandskimoffthefat.Chillingthebrothmakesremovingthefateasier.

3.Once thechickenandbeefarecoolenough tohandle,pull themeatoff thechickenbonesandtearitintobite-sizedpieces.Discardthebones.Pullthebeefapartintobite-sizedpieces.Measureoutenoughbrothormeatforyourchosenrecipe and keep the rest refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6

months.

Acknowledgments

Wewouldliketothankouragent,StaceyGlick,ofDystel&GoderichLiteraryManagement,andoureditor,StephanieFraser,bothofwhomsawthisbookovermorethanafewimpressivehurdles.Wealsothankourfamilies,YeeFanChu,RoseNg,AmandaLovatt,andJennifer,Jim,Henry,andMollyRomeo.WeareforevergratefultoSusanFriedlandforbelievinginthepossibilitiesofdumplingsandtoHarrietBellandMaureenO’Brienforshepherdingthepageswithinthisbook.A special thank you toLorieYoung,ChristineBenton,AnnCahn,KrisTobiassen,andeveryoneatHarperCollinsforalloftheirhardworkandcareandfortransformingourmanuscriptintoabook.SpecialthankstoBrandonHarmanandEliSchmidt forall theydid tobring thebeautyofdumplings to thepage.Our appreciation and gratitude to Jeffra and Yash Nandan, Ann and HermanSilverman,Lindsay de Jongh, Stephanie Sugawara, JonCohen,AmyHolman,Edward and Tina Baluyut, Ted Calamia, Bill Callahan, Celeste Carrasco,ChristineCarroll, JoanneChan,ConnieChiang, JonasDamonand JoannRha,the Dillworth clan, Dong Pui Chun, Marilyn Fein, Dorie Greenspan, GepsieHarvey, KarenHeaselgrave, Dr. StevenHerman, NancyHruska, Amanda andJulie Johns, Anuree Kengrian, Margaret Kornberg, Huy Voun Lee and SeijiIkuta,RuthLeiman,LiGuiHua,FredrikLarssonandJamesAnthony,Lorenzo,KathleenMasterson,theMollyclan,GitaNandan,KellyNotaras,SueLingNg,GailO’Hara,StevePilgrim,BerthaRogers,LindaRosciano,AlexandraRowley,JennySilverman,ShannonSinclair,TianaandKennyTang,WandaTantayopin,Dianna and Hao Hui Wang, Adam and Illaria Woodward, Ruiqiang Wu and

GuichanMo,andQilingWu.

DumplingsbyRegionandCountry

NORTHANDWESTEUROPE

BaconandSageRoly-Poly(England)BeefandOysterStewwithSuetDumplings(England)CabinetPudding,aCakeandAlmondCookiePudding(England)CanaryPuddingwithLemonCurd(England)ChocolateBreadCrumbPudding(England)ClassicChristmasPudding(England)ClootieDumpling(Scotland)

CountryCabbageSoupwithLargeCornmealDumplings,SoupeauxMiquesetauxChoux(France)JohnintheSack,JanindeZak(Holland)LordRandall’sPudding,anApricotDessert(England)MatzoBallsinaBeefBroth,FleischsuppemitMatzoknepfle(France)OatandHoneyPudding(Ireland)

PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithHam,Kroppkakor(Sweden)SpicedCarrotPudding(England)

StickyToffeePudding(England)

ITALY

ChestnutGnocchiwithWalnutSauce,GnocchidiCastagneconSalsadiNociChestnutRavioliwithSageButterSauce,RaviolidiCastagneChicken-FilledDumplingsinanEscaroleSoup,CappellettiinBrodoDumplingsStuffedwithPears,Figs,andChocolate,CialzonsallaFruttaDumplingsStuffedwith“Stewed”BreadCrumbs,AnolinidiParmaFishRavioliwithaThinnedCreamSauce,RaviolidiPescePotatoGnocchi,GnocchidiPatate“PriestStranglers”withBrownButterandSage,StrangolapretiPumpkinandLentilRavioliwithBrownedButterandRosemary,RaviolidiZuccaeLenticchieSemolinaDumplingswithButterandCheeseSauce,FrascatelliTinyGnocchiandCranberryBeanStew,PisareieFaso

CENTRALANDEASTERNEUROPE

BeanSoupwithTinyDumplings,Csipetke(Hungary)BreadandSemolinaLoaf,HouskovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)Butter-TossedSpaetzle,Spätzle

(Germany)CauliflowerSoupwithButteryBreadCrumbDumplings,KvtákováPolévkasKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)ChickenPaprikawithDumplings,CsirkePaprikasGaluskaval(Hungary)KashaandMushroomPierogi,PierogizKasz Gryczan (Poland)LargeBeef-andSpinach-FilledDumplingsinaBeefBroth,Maultaschen(Germany)LentilandOnionPierogi,PierogizSoczewic (Poland)MarrowDumplingsinBeefBroth,Markklösschensuppe(Germany)Milk-SteamedBunswithVanillaCustardSauce,Dampfnudeln(Germany)Mushroom-AsparagusBreadDumplingsinaMushroomSauce,SchwammerlKnödelmitSpargel(Austria)“Napkin”BreadDumpling,Serviettenkloss(Germany)“Napkin”BreadDumplingwithCherries,KirschenServiettenknödel(Austria)No-FussPotatoDumplings,Pyzy(Poland)PotatoandDumplingBoil-Up,KartoffelnmitMehlknödel(Germany)PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithSugar-StuffedPlums,ŠvestkovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)PotatoDumplingswithCabbageLayers,KáposztásGombóc(Hungary)PotatoDumplingswithCroutonCenters,Kartoffelklösse(Germany)RootVegetableBreadDumplings,Zöldséggombóc(Hungary)SilesianPotatoDumplingswithMushroomSauce,Kluski l skie(Poland)

RUSSIA

BuckwheatDumplingsStuffedwithApplesandCheese,VarenikisYablokami“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwithMushroomsinaBeetSoup,BorshchzVushkaSiberianMeatDumplings,PelmeniSpoon-DroppedSemolinaDumplings,Kletski

AFRICA

Chickpea“Fish”inaSpicyOnionSauce,YeshimbraAsa(Ethiopia)Leaf-WrappedBlack-EyedPeaDumplings,Moyin-Moyin(Nigeria)PoundedCassavaDumpling,Fufu(WestAfrica)THEMIDDLEEASTANDCENTRALASIAChive-StuffedDumplingswithTomatoSauceandMintedYogurt,Ashak(Afghanistan)Cloud-ShapedBreadBuns,TingMomo(Tibet)LemonyLentil-ChardSoupwithBulgurDumplings,KibbetRaheb(Lebanon)Oven-SimmeredLamb-FilledDumplingswithMintedYogurt,Manti(Turkey)SpicyLamb-FilledDumplingsinaThickYogurtSoup,SheeshBarakbiLaban(Lebanon)WheatDumplingsStuffedwithBeefandOnion,ShaMomo(Tibet)WheatDumplingsStuffedwithTurmeric-StainedPotatoes,ShogoMomo(Tibet)

EASTASIA

BlackSesameCupcakes,KurogomaMushipan(Japan)BlackSesameRoll-Ups,HeiZiMaJuan(China)BottleneckedPorkandShrimpDumplings,ShaoMai(China)DaikonCake,LuoBoGao(China)DumplingsStuffedwithPorkandCabbage,Mandu(Korea)Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithChickenandBambooShoots,NuoMiJi(China)Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithPeanutsandSausage,ZhongZi(China)NewYear’sDaySoupwithPoundedRiceDumplings,Ozoni(Japan)PanfriedDumplingsStuffedwithChickenandMushrooms,JiaoZi(China)PoundedRiceDumplings,Mochi(Japan)PoundedRiceDumplingsStuffedwithStrawberries,IchigoDaifuku(Japan)RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPeanutandCoconut,NuoMiCi(China)RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandKohlrabi,FenGuo(China)SlipperyRiceBallsinCabbage-RadishSoup,TangYuan(China)SmallMushroomBuns,XiangGuBaozi(China)SmallPorkBuns,ZhuRouBaozi(China)

SteamedBreadLoavesStuffedwithStickyFriedRice,NuoMiJuan(China)SteamedBreadRolls,Mantou(China)AWealthofSteamedRiceMuffins,FotGao(China)WontonswithRedChileOil,HungYouChaoShou(China)

INDIAANDSOUTHEASTASIA

BananaCupcakes,ApamPisang(Malaysia)CassavaPattieswithGratedCoconut,Pichi-Pichi(Philippines)ChickpeaDumplingsinTomatoSauce,ChanaVadakiTomatochiBhaji(India)ChickpeaSquaresToppedwithMustardSeedsandSpicedOil,KhamanDhokla(India)CockleswithRiceDumplingsinaSpicyCoconutSauce,KubeMutli(India)CoconutandRiceColumnswithChickpeaCurry,PuttuKadala(India)Coconut-FilledRiceDumplings,Modak(India)FlattenedRiceDumplingswithGratedCoconutandAniseSugar,Palitao(Philippines)Leaf-WrappedRiceandBananaBundles,KhaoTomMat(Thailand)Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithPorkandBeans,BánhTet(Vietnam)LightlySouredRiceCakes,SadaIdli(India)MildYogurtSemolinaCakes,RavaIdli(India)Nine-LayerCoconutTapiocaCake,KhanomChan(Thailand)RiceandTapiocaDumplingsToppedwithShrimpandBeanPaste,BánhBèo(Vietnam)Salty-SweetBeanPuddingswithCoconutCreamTopping,KhanomThuay(Thailand)StarchyCoconutStewwithSlipperyRiceBalls,GuinataanatBilo-Bilo(Philippines)StickyRiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandShrimp,BánhItTrán(Vietnam)SweetPotatoDumplingswithaMeltedSugarCenter,Onde-Onde(Malaysia)TapiocaBallsStuffedwithMincedPorkandPeanuts,SakooSaiMoo(Thailand)TaroBallsinaSweetCoconutSoup,BuaLoiPhuak(Thailand)

AUSTRALIA

DumplingsandCocky’sJoy

CANADAANDUNITEDSTATES

BostonBrownBread(UnitedStates)CheddarCheeseandPotatoPierogi(UnitedStates)ChickenandDumplingSoup(UnitedStates)ChickenFricotwithDumplings(Canada)CollardGreenswithCornDumplings(UnitedStates)CranberryPudding(UnitedStates)GrahamPotatoBuns(UnitedStates)

LayeredAppleandBreadPudding(UnitedStates)LeafBread,aFreshCorn“Tamale”(UnitedStatesandCanada)PeachandBerryGrunt(UnitedStates)PhiladelphiaPepperpotSoupwithDumplings(UnitedStates)SpicedGingerbread(UnitedStates)SteamedCornBread(UnitedStates)TurkeyStewwithStuffingDumplings(UnitedStates)WildGrapesandDumplings(UnitedStates)

MEXICOANDCENTRALAMERICA

TheArmoftheQueenTamale,BrazodelaReina(Mexico)ChocolateTamales,TamalesdeChocolate(Mexico)CornTamalesStuffedwithStringyCheeseandPoblano,TamalesdeElote(Mexico)MasaBallSoup,SopadeBolitasdeMasa(Mexico)Pineapple-PecanTamales,TamalesDulces(Mexico)PorkTamaleswithGreenOlivesandJalapeño,TamalesdePuerco(Mexico)Potato“Tamales”StuffedwithChickenandJalapeño,PachesdePapa(Guatemala)TamalesStuffedwithChickenandTomatilloSauce,TamalesdePollo(Mexico)

THECARIBBEAN

BoiledFishwithOkraandDumplings(Caribbean)Cassava“Tamales”StuffedwithPorkandChickpeas,PastelesdeYuca(PuertoRico)GuavaDuff(Bahamas)

PlantainDumplingsinChickenBroth,SopadeBolitasdePlátanoVerde(PuertoRico)RedPeaSoupwithSpinners(Caribbean)SweetandDarkPepperpotStewandDumplings(Guyana)

SOUTHAMERICA

Beef-StuffedPlantainBallsinaCassava-CornSoup,CaldodeBolas(Ecuador)FreshCornandBasil“Tamales,”Humitas(Chile)FreshCornandCoconut“Tamales,”Pamonhas(Brazil)Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithChickenandPeanuts,JuanesdeArroz(Peru)

DumplingsbyType

Dropped—Dumplingsforwhichthebatteroradoughisspoonedanddroppedintoboilingwaterorintoasimmeringsoup,stew,orsauce.

Butter-TossedSpaetzle,Spätzle(Germany)ChickenFricotwithDumplings(Canada)ChickenPaprikawithDumplings,CsirkePaprikasGaluskaval(Hungary)ChickpeaDumplingsinTomatoSauce,ChanaVadakiTomatochiBhaji(India)DumplingsandCocky’sJoy(Australia)MatzoBallsinaBeefBroth,FleischsuppemitMatzoknepfle(France)PeachandBerryGrunt(UnitedStates)PotatoandDumplingBoil-Up,KartoffelnmitMehlknödel(Germany)Spoon-DroppedSemolinaDumplings,Kletski(Russia)

Contained—Dumplingsforwhichthedoughorbatterissteamedinacontainer,suchasapuddingbasinorcakepan.

BananaCupcakes,ApamPisang(Malaysia)BlackSesameCupcakes,KurogomaMushipan(Japan)BlackSesameRoll-Ups,HeiZiMaJuan(China)BostonBrownBread(UnitedStates)CabinetPudding,aCakeandAlmondCookiePudding(England)CanaryPuddingwithLemonCurd(England)CassavaPattieswithGratedCoconut

ChickpeaSquaresToppedwithMustardSeedsandSpicedOil,KhamanDhokla(India)ChocolateBreadCrumbPudding(England)ClassicChristmasPudding(England)CoconutandRiceColumnswithChickpeaCurry,PuttuKadala(India)CranberryPudding(UnitedStates)DaikonCake,LuoBo

Gao(China)GuavaDuff(Bahamas)LayeredAppleandBreadPudding(UnitedStates)LightlySouredRiceCakes,

SadaIdli(India)LordRandall’sPudding,anApricotDessert(England)MildYogurtSemolinaCakes,RavaIdli(India)Nine-LayerCoconutTapiocaCake,KhanomChan(Thailand)OatandHoneyPudding(Ireland)

RiceandTapiocaDumplingsToppedwithShrimpandBeanPaste,BánhBèo(Vietnam)Salty-SweetBeanPuddingswithCoconutCreamTopping,KhanomThuay(Thailand)SpicedCarrotPudding(England)

SpicedGingerbread(UnitedStates)SteamedCornBread(UnitedStates)StickyToffeePudding(England)

AWealthofSteamedRiceMuffins,FotGao(China)

Pounded—Dumplingsforwhichastarchoragrainisfirstboiledorsteamed,thenpoundedinamortar.

NewYear’sDaySoupwithPoundedRiceDumplings,Ozoni(Japan)PoundedCassavaDumpling,Fufu(WestAfrica)PoundedRiceDumplings,Mochi(Japan)PoundedRiceDumplingsStuffedwithStrawberries,IchigoDaifuku(Japan)

Rolled(solid)—Dumplingsforwhichthedoughisshapedbyhandorrolledoutandcutbeforetheyaresteamedorboiled.

BeanSoupwithTinyDumplings,Csipetke(Hungary)BeefandOysterStewwithSuetDumplings(England)BoiledFishwithOkraandDumplings(Caribbean)BreadandSemolinaLoaf,HouskovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)CauliflowerSoupwithButteryBreadCrumbDumplings,KvétákováPolévkasKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)

ChestnutGnocchiwithWalnutSauce,GnocchidiCastagneconSalsadiNoci(Italy)ChickenandDumplingSoup(UnitedStates)Chickpea“Fish”inaSpicyOnionSauce,YeshimbraAsa(Ethiopia)Cloud-ShapedBreadBuns,TingMomo(Tibet)CockleswithRiceDumplingsinaSpicyCoconutSauce,KubeMutli(India)CollardGreenswithCornDumplings(UnitedStates)CountryCabbageSoupwithLargeCornmealDumplings,SoupeauxMiquesetauxChoux(France)FlattenedRiceDumplingswithGratedCoconutand

AniseSugar,Palitao(Philippines)GrahamPotatoBuns(UnitedStates)LemonyLentil-ChardSoupwithBulgurDumplings,KibbetRaheb(Lebanon)MarrowDumplingsinBeefBroth,Markklösschensuppe(Germany)MasaBallSoup,SopadeBolitasdeMasa(Mexico)Milk-SteamedBunswithVanillaCustardSauce,Dampfnudeln(Germany)No-FussPotatoDumplings,Pyzy(Poland)PhiladelphiaPepperpotSoupwithDumplings(UnitedStates)PlantainDumplingsinChickenBroth,SopadeBolitasdePlátanoVerde(PuertoRico)PotatoDumplingswithCabbageLayers,KáposztásGombóc(Hungary)PotatoGnocchi,GnocchidiPatate(Italy)“PriestStranglers”withBrownButterandSage,Strangolapreti(Italy)RedPeaSoupwithSpinners(Caribbean)RootVegetableBreadDumplings,Zöldséggombóc(Hungary)SemolinaDumplingswithButterandCheeseSauce,Frascatelli(Italy)SilesianPotatoDumplingswithMushroomSauce,Kluski l ski(Poland)SlipperyRiceBallsinCabbage-RadishSoup,TangYuan(China)StarchyCoconutStewwithSlipperyRiceBalls,GuinataanatBilo-Bilo(Philippines)SteamedBreadRolls,Mantou(China)SweetandDarkPepperpotStewandDumplings(Guyana)TaroBallsinaSweetCoconutSoup,BuaLoiPhuak(Thailand)TinyGnocchiandCranberryBeanStew,PisareieFaso(Italy)TurkeyStewwithStuffingDumplings(UnitedStates)WildGrapesandDumplings(UnitedStates)

Stuffed—Dumplingsforwhichadoughisstuffedwithafillingbeforetheyaresteamedorboiled.

Beef-StuffedPlantainBallsinaCassava-CornSoup,CaldodeBolas(Ecuador)BottleneckedPorkandShrimpDumplings,ShaoMai(China)BuckwheatDumplingsStuffedwithApplesandCheese,VarenikisYablokami(Russia)CheddarCheeseandPotatoPierogi(UnitedStates)ChestnutRavioliwithSageButterSauce,RaviolidiCastagne(Italy)Chicken-FilledDumplingsinanEscaroleSoup,CappellettiinBrodo(Italy)Chive-StuffedDumplingswithTomatoSauceandMintedYogurt,Ashak(Afghanistan)Coconut-FilledRiceDumplings,Modak(India)DumplingsStuffedwithPears,Figs,andChocolate,CialzonsallaFrutta(Italy)DumplingsStuffedwithPorkandCabbage,Mandu(Korea)DumplingsStuffedwith“Stewed”BreadCrumbs,AnolinidiParma(Italy)FishRavioliwithaThinnedCreamSauce,RaviolidiPesce(Italy)KashaandMushroomPierogi,PierogizKasz Gryczan

(Poland)LargeBeef-andSpinach-FilledDumplingsinaBeefBroth,Maultaschen(Germany)LentilandOnionPierogi,PierogizSoczewic(Poland)“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwithMushroomsinaBeetSoup,BorshchzVushka(Russia)Oven-SimmeredLamb-FilledDumplingswithMintedYogurt,Manti(Turkey)PanfriedDumplingsStuffedwithChickenandMushrooms,JiaoZi(China)PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithHam,Kroppkakor(Sweden)PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithSugar-StuffedPlums,ŠvestkovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)PotatoDumplingswithCroutonCenters,Kartoffelklösse(Germany)PumpkinandLentilRavioliwithBrownedButterandRosemary,RaviolidiZuccaeLenticchie(Italy)RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPeanutandCoconut,NuoMiCi(China)RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandKohlrabi,FenGuo(China)SiberianMeatDumplings,Pelmeni(Russia)SmallMushroomBuns,XiangGuBaozi(China)SmallPorkBuns,ZhuRouBaozi(China)SpicyLamb-FilledDumplingsinaThickYogurtSoup,SheeshBarakbiLaban(Lebanon)SteamedBreadLoavesStuffedwithStickyFriedRice,NuoMiJuan(China)StickyRiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandShrimp,BánhItTrán(Vietnam)SweetPotatoDumplingswithaMeltedSugarCenter,Onde-Onde(Malaysia)TapiocaBallsStuffedwithMincedPorkandPeanuts,SakooSaiMoo(Thailand)

WheatDumplingsStuffedwithBeefandOnion,ShaMomo(Tibet)WheatDumplingsStuffedwithTurmeric-StainedPotatoes,ShogoMomo(Tibet)WontonswithRedChileOil,HungYouChaoShou(China)

Wrapped—Dumplingsforwhichthebatterordoughiswrappedinaclothorleafbeforetheyaresteamedorboiled.

TheArmoftheQueenTamale,BrazodelaReina(Mexico)BaconandSageRoly-Poly(England)Cassava“Tamales”StuffedwithPorkandChickpeas,PastelesdeYuca(PuertoRico)ChocolateTamales,TamalesdeChocolate(Mexico)ClootieDumpling(Scotland)

CornTamalesStuffedwithStringyCheeseandPoblano,TamalesdeElote(Mexico)FreshCornandBasil“Tamales,”Humitas(Chile)FreshCornandCoconut“Tamales,”Pamonhas(Brazil)JohnintheSack,JanindeZak(Holland)LeafBread,aFreshCorn“Tamale”(UnitedStatesandCanada)Leaf-WrappedBlack-EyedPeaDumplings,Moyin-Moyin(Nigeria)Leaf-

WrappedRiceandBananaBundles,KhaoTomMat(Thailand)Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithChickenandPeanuts,JuanesdeArroz(Peru)Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithPorkandBeans,BánhTet(Vietnam)Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithChickenandBambooShoots,NuoMiJi(China)Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithPeanutsandSausage,ZhongZi(China)Mushroom-AsparagusBreadDumplingsinaMushroomSauce,SchwammerlKnödelmitSpargel(Austria)“Napkin”BreadDumpling,Serviettenkloss(Germany)“Napkin”BreadDumplingwithCherries,KirschenServiettenknödel(Austria)Pineapple-PecanTamales,TamalesDulces(Mexico)PorkTamaleswithGreenOlivesandJalapeño,TamalesdePuerco(Mexico)Potato“Tamales”StuffedwithChickenandJalapeño,PachesdePapa(Guatemala)TamalesStuffedwithChickenandTomatilloSauce,TamalesdePollo(Mexico)

VegetarianDumplings

BananaCupcakes,ApamPisang(Malaysia)BlackSesameCupcakes,KurogomaMushipan(Japan)BlackSesameRoll-Ups,HeiZiMaJuan(China)BostonBrownBread(UnitedStates)BreadandSemolinaLoaf,HouskovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)BuckwheatDumplingsStuffedwithApplesandCheese,VarenikisYablokami(Russia)Butter-TossedSpaetzle,Spätzle(Germany)CabinetPudding,aCakeandAlmondCookiePudding(England)CanaryPuddingwithLemonCurd(England)CassavaPattieswithGratedCoconut,Pichi-Pichi(Philippines)CauliflowerSoupwithButteryBreadCrumbDumplings,KvétákováPolévkasKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)CheddarCheeseandPotatoPierogi(UnitedStates)ChestnutGnocchiwithWalnutSauce,GnocchidiCastagneconSalsadiNoci(Italy)ChickpeaDumplingsinTomatoSauce,ChanaVadakiTomatochiBhaji(India)Chickpea“Fish”inaSpicyOnionSauce,YeshimbraAsa(Ethiopia)

ChickpeaSquaresToppedwithMustardSeedsandSpicedOil,KhamanDhokla(India)ChocolateBreadCrumbPudding(England)ChocolateTamales,TamalesdeChocolate(Mexico)Cloud-ShapedBreadBuns,TingMomo(Tibet)CoconutandRiceColumnswithChickpeaCurry,PuttuKadala(India)Coconut-FilledRiceDumplings,Modak(India)CranberryPudding(UnitedStates)DumplingsStuffedwithPears,Figs,andChocolate,CialzonsallaFrutta(Italy)FlattenedRiceDumplingswithGratedCoconutandAniseSugar,Palitao(Philippines)FreshCornandBasil“Tamales,”Humitas(Chile)FreshCornandCoconut“Tamales,”Pamonhas(Brazil)

GrahamPotatoBuns(UnitedStates)GuavaDuff(Bahamas)JohnintheSack,JanindeZak(Holland)KashaandMushroomPierogi,Pierogi

zKasz Gryczan (Poland)LayeredAppleandBreadPudding(UnitedStates)LeafBread,aFreshCorn“Tamale”(UnitedStatesandCanada)Leaf-WrappedBlack-EyedPeaDumplings,Moyin-Moyin(Nigeria)Leaf-WrappedRiceandBananaBundles,KhaoTomMat(Thailand)LemonyLentil-ChardSoupwithBulgurDumplings,KibbetRaheb(Lebanon)LentilandOnionPierogi,PierogizSoczewic (Poland)LightlySouredRiceCakes,SadaIdli(India)LordRandall’sPudding,anApricotDessert(England)MildYogurtSemolinaCakes,RavaIdli(India)Milk-SteamedBunswithVanillaCustardSauce,Dampfnudeln(Germany)Mushroom-AsparagusBreadDumplingsinaMushroomSauce,SchwammerlKnödelmitSpargel(Austria)“Napkin”BreadDumpling,Serviettenkloss(Germany)Nine-LayerCoconutTapiocaCake,KhanomChan(Thailand)No-FussPotatoDumplings,Pyzy(Poland)OatandHoneyPudding(Ireland)

PeachandBerryGrunt(UnitedStates)Pineapple-PecanTamales,TamalesDulces(Mexico)PotatoandDumplingBoil-Up,KartoffelnmitMehlknödel(Germany)PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithSugar-StuffedPlums,ŠvestkovéKnedlíky(CzechRepublic)PotatoDumplingswithCabbageLayers,KáposztásGombóc(Hungary)

PotatoDumplingswithCroutonCenters,Kartoffelklösse(Germany)PoundedRiceDumplings,Mochi(Japan)PoundedRiceDumplingsStuffedwithStrawberries,IchigoDaifuku(Japan)“PriestStranglers”withBrownButterandSage,Strangolapreti(Italy)RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPeanutandCoconut,NuoMiCi(China)RootVegetableBreadDumplings,Zöldséggombóc(Hungary)Salty-SweetBeanPuddingswithCoconutCreamTopping,KhanomThuay(Thailand)SemolinaDumplingswithButterandCheese,Frascatelli(Italy)SilesianPotatoDumplingswithMushroomSauce,Kluski lski (Poland)SmallMushroomBuns,XiangGuBaozi(China)SpicedGingerbread(UnitedStates)Spoon-DroppedSemolinaDumplings,Kletski(Russia)StarchyCoconutStewwithSlipperyRiceBalls,GuinataanatBilo-Bilo(Philippines)SteamedBreadRolls,Mantou(China)SteamedCornBread(UnitedStates)StickyToffeePudding(England)

SweetPotatoDumplingswithaMeltedSugarCenter,Onde-Onde(Malaysia)TaroBallsinaSweetCoconutSoup,BuaLoiPhuak(Thailand)AWealthofSteamedRiceMuffins,FotGao(China)WheatDumplingsStuffedwithTurmeric-StainedPotatoes,ShogoMomo(Tibet)WildGrapesand

Dumplings(UnitedStates)

SearchableTerms

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A

Almond(s)CookieandCakePudding(CabinetPudding),237–38RatafiaCookies,239

AnolinidiParma(DumplingsStuffedwith“Stewed”BreadCrumbs),390–92ApamPisang(BananaCupcakes),227–28AppleandBreadPudding,Layered,291–92ApplesandCheese,BuckwheatDumplingsStuffedwith,297–98ApricotDessert(LordRandall’sPudding),341–42Ashak(Chive-StuffedDumplingswithTomatoSauceandMintedYogurt),145–

47Asparagus-MushroomBreadDumplingsinaMushroomSauce,173–75

B

BaconandSageRoly-Poly,318–19Bamboo-LeafFold,61Bambooleaves,about,28–29BambooShootsandChicken,Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwith,192–

94BananaandRiceBundles,Leaf-Wrapped,259–60BananaCupcakes,227–28Bananaleaves,about,28BánhBèo(RiceandTapiocaDumplingsToppedwithShrimpandBeanPaste),

215–16BánhItTrán(StickyRiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandShrimp),212–13BánhTet(Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithPorkandBeans),267–69BasilandFreshCorn“Tamales,”235–36Bean(s).SeealsoChickpea(s)

canned,rinsing,5Cranberry,Stew,TinyGnocchiand,118–20PasteandShrimp,RiceandTapiocaDumplingsToppedwith,215–16andPork,Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwith,267–69PoundedRiceDumplingsStuffedwithStrawberries,190–91forrecipes,5RedPeaSoupwithSpinners,257–58SoupwithTinyDumplings,313–14

BeefBeanSoupwithTinyDumplings,313–14Broth,396Broth,Chickenand,398Broth,LargeBeef-andSpinach-FilledDumplingsin,351–53Broth,MarrowDumplingsin,79–80Broth,MatzoBallsina,143–44BrothwithAmericanFlavors,397BrothwithBritishFlavors,396BrothwithGermanFlavors,397BrothwithHungarianFlavors,396DumplingsStuffedwith“Stewed”BreadCrumbs,390–92“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwithMushroomsinaBeetSoup,359–61

andOnion,WheatDumplingsStuffedwith,151–52OxtailSauce,78andOysterStewwithSuetDumplings,293–94PhiladelphiaPepperpotSoupwithDumplings,349–50PotatoGnocchiwithOxtailSauce,77SiberianMeatDumplings,382–83-StuffedPlantainBallsinaCassava-CornSoup,328–29SweetandDarkPepperpotStewandDumplings,240–41vegetariansubstitutesfor,33

BeetSoup,“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwithMushroomsina,359–61Belly-ButtonFold,49BerbereSpice,317Berry(ies)

CranberryPudding,338–39andPeachGrunt,255PoundedRiceDumplingsStuffedwithStrawberries,190–91forrecipes,13

Black-EyedPeaDumplings,Leaf-Wrapped,265–66BorshchzVushka(“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwithMushroomsinaBeet

Soup),359–61BostonBrownBread,279–80BottleneckFold,50BowlFold,45BrazodelaReina(TheArmoftheQueenTamale),220–21BreadCrumb(s)

Dumplings,Buttery,CauliflowerSoupwith,121–22frying,7MarrowDumplingsinBeefBroth,79–80preparing,6Pudding,Chocolate,92–93“Stewed,”DumplingsStuffedwith,390–92

BreadcubesBreadandSemolinaLoaf,285–86LayeredAppleandBreadPudding,291–92Mushroom-AsparagusBreadDumplingsinaMushroomSauce,173–75“Napkin”BreadDumpling,324–25“Napkin”BreadDumplingswithCherries,231–32PotatoDumplingswithCroutonCenters,345–46preparing,6

“PriestStranglers”withBrownButterandSage,74–75RootVegetableBreadDumplings,365–66

Bread(s).SeealsoBreadCrumb(s);BreadcubesBostonBrown,279–80Buns,Cloud-Shaped,99–100buying,fordumplings,6Corn,Steamed,114JohnintheSack,376–77removingcrustfrom,6Rolls,Steamed,72–73StuffingDumplings,TurkeyStewwith,336–37

BrothBeef,396Beef,LargeBeef-andSpinach-FilledDumplingsin,351–53Beef,MarrowDumplingsin,79–80Beef,withAmericanFlavors,397Beef,withBritishFlavors,396Beef,withGermanFlavors,397Beef,withHungarianFlavors,396BeefandChicken,398Chicken,394Chicken,withChineseFlavors,394Chicken,withMexicanFlavors,394Chicken,withPuertoRicanFlavors,394Pork,395Pork,withMexicanFlavors,395

Brownslabsugar,about,20BuaLoiPhuak(TaroBallsinaSweetCoconutSoup),201–2BuckwheatDumplingsStuffedwithApplesandCheese,297–98BulgurDumplings,LemonyLentil–ChardSoupwith,207–8Butter

clarified(ghee),12forrecipes,12-TossedSpaetzle,67

C

CabbageLayers,PotatoDumplingswith,374–75“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwithMushroomsinaBeetSoup,359–61andPork,DumplingsStuffedwith,159–61-RadishSoup,SlipperyRiceBallsin,169–70Soup,Country,withLargeCornmealDumplings,347–48TofuandMushroomMandu,161varieties,forrecipes,7WontonswithRedChileOil,261–62

Cake,CoconutTapioca,Nine-Layer,139–40CakeandAlmondCookiePudding(CabinetPudding),237–38CaldodeBolas(Beef-StuffedPlantainBallsinaCassava-CornSoup),328–29CanaryPuddingwithLemonCurd,203–4Candy-WrapperShapeUsingaCloth,51Candy-WrapperShapeUsingaLeaf,57CappellettiinBrodo(Chicken-FilledDumplingsinanEscaroleSoup),387–89CaramelSauce,340CarrotPudding,Spiced,307–8Cassava

buyingandpreparing,7-CornSoup,Beef-StuffedPlantainBallsina,328–29Dumplings,Pounded,171–72PattieswithGratedCoconut,256andPlantainFufu,172“Tamales”StuffedwithPorkandChickpeas,81–83

CauliflowerSoupwithButteryBreadCrumbDumplings,121–22ChanaVadakiTomatochiBhaji(ChickpeaDumplingsinTomatoSauce),125–

26Chard

TheArmoftheQueenTamale,220–21-LentilSoup,Lemony,withBulgurDumplings,207–8

CheeseandApples,BuckwheatDumplingsStuffedwith,297–98andButterSauce,SemolinaDumplingswith,65–66Cheddar,andPotatoPierogi,322–23

MasaBallSoup,135–36PotatoDumplingswithCabbageLayers,374–75Stringy,andPoblano,CornTamalesStuffedwith,263–64

Cherries,“Napkin”BreadDumplingswith,231–32CherryCompote,232ChestnutGnocchiwithWalnutSauce,107–8ChestnutRavioliwithSageButterSauce,384–86Chicken

andBambooShoots,Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwith,192–94Broth,394Broth,Beefand,398Broth,PlantainDumplingsin,229–30BrothwithChineseFlavors,394BrothwithMexicanFlavors,394BrothwithPuertoRicanFlavors,394andDumplingSoup,283–84-FilledDumplingsinanEscaroleSoup,387–89FricotwithDumplings,281–82GroundnutSoup,172andJalapeño,Potato“Tamales”Stuffedwith,326–27andMushrooms,PanfriedDumplingsStuffedwith,110–12NewYear’sDaySoupwithPoundedRiceDumplings,86–87PaprikawithDumplings,311–12andPeanuts,Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwith,222–24SweetandDarkPepperpotStewandDumplings,240–41andTomatilloSauce,TamalesStuffedwith,186–87vegetariansubstitutesfor,34

Chickpea(s)Curry,CoconutandRiceColumnswith,176–77DumplingsinTomatoSauce,125–26“Fish”inaSpicyOnionSauce,315–16andPork,Cassava“Tamales”Stuffedwith,81–83SquaresToppedwithMustardSeedsandSpicedOil,137–38

Chile(s)CornTamalesStuffedwithStringyCheeseandPoblano,263–64PorkTamaleswithGreenOlivesandJalapeño,217–19Potato“Tamales”StuffedwithChickenandJalapeño,326–27forrecipes,14Red,Oil,Wontonswith,261–62

Sofrito,83Sweet,Sour,andSpicyFishSauce,214

Chive-StuffedDumplingswithTomatoSauceandMintedYogurt,145–47Chocolate

BreadCrumbPudding,92–93Pears,andFigs,DumplingsStuffedwith,354–55Tamales,380–81

ChristmasPudding,Classic,378–79Chutney,Coconut,251Chutney,Onion,252CialzonsallaFrutta(DumplingsStuffedwithPears,Figs,andChocolate),354–

55ClootieDumpling,367–69Cloud-ShapedBreadBuns,99–100CockleswithRiceDumplingsinaSpicyCoconutSauce,123–24Cocky’sJoy,Dumplingsand,333Coconut

Chutney,251crackingopen,8cream,canned,buying,9cream,fresh,collecting,9CreamTopping,Salty-SweetBeanPuddingswith,141–42CurryMasala,178-FilledRiceDumplings,270–71andFreshCorn“Tamales,”233–34Grated,andAniseSugar,FlattenedRiceDumplingswith,197–98grated,buying,9Grated,CassavaPattieswith,256grated,dryinginoven,8gratingmeatof,8milkcanned,buyingandusing,9cookingwith,9–10fresh,preparing,8–9madefromsecondpressing,9scoopingcreamlayerfrom,9andPeanut,RiceDumplingsStuffedwith,245–46removingmeatfrom,8andRiceColumnswithChickpeaCurry,176–77

Sauce,Spicy,CockleswithRiceDumplingsina,123–24Soup,Sweet,TaroBallsina,201–2Stew,Starchy,withSlipperyRiceBalls,369–70SweetPotatoDumplingswithaMeltedSugarCenter,115–16TapiocaCake,Nine-Layer,139–40

CollardGreenswithCornDumplings,309–10Cookies,Ratafia,239Corn.SeealsoCornmeal

Bread,Steamed,114-CassavaSoup,Beef-StuffedPlantainBallsina,328–29flour,about,10Fresh,andBasil“Tamales,”235–36Fresh,andCoconut“Tamales,”233–34fresh,forrecipes,10husks,about,28LeafBread,aFreshCorn“Tamale,”199–200TamalesStuffedwithStringyCheeseandPoblano,263–64

Cornmealbuyingandstoring,10CollardGreenswithCornDumplings,309–10Dumplings,Large,CountryCabbageSoupwith,347–48FreshCornandBasil“Tamales,”235–36FreshCornandCoconut“Tamales,”233–34LeafBread,aFreshCorn“Tamale,”199–200SteamedCornBread,114

CranberryPudding,338–39CreamSauce,94Csipetke(BeanSoupwithTinyDumplings),313–14CsirkePaprikasGaluskaval(ChickenPaprikawithDumplings),311–12Cupcakes,Banana,227–28Cupcakes,BlackSesame,165–66Curled-LetterFold,60Curry,Chickpea,CoconutandRiceColumnswith,176–77

D

DaikonradishDaikonCake,320–21SlipperyRiceBallsinCabbage-RadishSoup,169–70

Dampfnudeln(Milk-SteamedBunswithVanillaCustardSauce),95–96Dates

StickyToffeePudding,343–44Demerarasugar,about,20DiamondintheSquareFold,42Dumplingdough

cutting,35–36leftover,usesfor,34proofing,36rollingout,35

DumplingfoldsBamboo-Leaf,61Belly-Button,49Bottleneck,50Bowl,45Candy-WrapperShapeUsingaCloth,51Candy-WrapperShapeUsingaLeaf,57Curled-Letter,60DiamondintheSquare,42Envelope,56Fan-Knot,44Half-Moon,47Jelly-RollShape,41Lotus-Leaf,54Pinched-Top,52PleatedHalf-Moon,46PuddingBag,58PuddingBasinSetup,43Single-HuskTamale,53StandingHalf-Moon,48Two-HuskTamale1(Wide),55Two-HuskTamale2(Long),59

Dumplingsboilingandsimmering,36cooked,reheating,37definitionof,2fillings,leftover,usesfor,34–35restingandfirmingup(setting),37testingcookingmethodfor,36testingfordoneness,37uncooked,freezing,36

E

EggsTheArmoftheQueenTamale,220–21buying,forrecipes,10Leaf-WrappedBlack-EyedPeaDumplings,265–66

EnvelopeFold,56Equipment

bakingcups,26bakingsheet(tray),26boxgrater,26brush,26dippingbowls,26electriccoffeegrinder,26–27foodprocessor,27gnocchiboard,27kitchenstring,27kitchentongs,27kitchentowels,27leavesandcornhusks,27–29metalruler,29mortarandpestle,29muslin,29–30parchmentpaper,30potatoricer,30potsandpans,31–32puddingbasin,30roastingpanfittedwitharack,30roundcookiecutters,30–31scissors,31slottedspoon,31steamerpot(ormulticookpot),31steamerracksandcollapsiblesteamers,32woodendowelrollingpin,32

EscaroleSoup,Chicken-FilledDumplingsinan,387–89

F

Fan-KnotFold,44Fatsandoilsbutter,12

cookingoils,12lard,11suet,11–12

FenGuo(RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandKohlrabi),130–31Figs,Pears,andChocolate,DumplingsStuffedwith,354–55Fish

Boiled,withOkraandDumplings,167–68driedorsalted,forrecipes,13fresh,forrecipes,13NewYear’sDaySoupwithPoundedRiceDumplings,86–87RavioliwithaThinnedCreamSauce,209–11vegetariansubstitutesfor,34

Fishsauce,about,14FishSauce,Sweet,Sour,andSpicy,214FleischsuppemitMatzoknepfle(MatzoBallsinaBeefBroth),143–44Flour,22–23.SeealsospecificflourtypesFolds.SeeDumplingfoldsFotGao

(AWealthofSteamedRiceMuffins),71Frascatelli(SemolinaDumplingswithButterandCheeseSauce),65–66Fruits.Seealsospecificfruits

dried,forrecipes,13–14fresh,forrecipes,13

Fufu,CassavaandPlantain,172Fufu(PoundedCassavaDumplings),171–72

G

Ghee,preparing,12Ginger,fresh,about,14–15Gingerbread,Spiced,70Gnocchi,Potato,withOxtailSauce,77Gnocchi,Tiny,andCranberryBeanStew,118–20GnocchidiCastagneconSalsadiNoci(ChestnutGnocchiwithWalnutSauce),

107–8GnocchidiPatate(PotatoGnocchi),76–77Goldensyrup

about,20DumplingsandCocky’sJoy,333

GrahamPotatoBuns,289–90Grapes,Wild,andDumplings,277–78Grapeseedoil,about,12Greens.SeealsoCabbage;Spinach

TheArmoftheQueenTamale,220–21Chicken-FilledDumplingsinanEscaroleSoup,387–89Collard,withCornDumplings,309–10hand-wilting,37LemonyLentil–ChardSoupwithBulgurDumplings,207–8

GuavaDuff,371–72GuinataanatBilo-Bilo(StarchyCoconutStewwithSlipperyRiceBalls),369–

70

H

Half-MoonFold,47Half-MoonFold,Pleated,46Half-MoonFold,Standing,48Ham

PotatoDumplingsStuffedwith,103–4RedPeaSoupwithSpinners,257–58

HardSauce,373HeiZiMaJuan(BlackSesameRoll-Ups),205–6Herbs.Seealsospecificherbs

hand-wilting,37forrecipes,15

Honey,forrecipes,21HouskovéKnedlíky(BreadandSemolinaLoaf),285–86Humitas(FreshCornandBasil“Tamales”),235–36HungYouChaoShou(WontonswithRedChileOil),261–62

I

IchigoDaifuku(PoundedRiceDumplingsStuffedwithStrawberries),190–91Idli,Rava(MildYogurtSemolinaCakes),295–96Idli,Sada(LightlySouredRiceCakes),247–48IdliStuffedwithOnionChutney,248

J

Jaggery,about,20JanindeZak(JohnintheSack),376–77Jelly-RollShape,41JiaoZi(PanfriedDumplingsStuffedwithChickenandMushrooms),110–12JuanesdeArroz(Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwithChickenand

Peanuts),222–24

K

KáposztásGombóc(PotatoDumplingswithCabbageLayers),374–75Kartoffelklösse(PotatoDumplingswithCroutonCenters),345–46KartoffelnmitMehlknödel(PotatoandDumplingBoil-Up),68–69KashaandMushroomPierogi,127–29KhamanDhokla(ChickpeaSquaresToppedwithMustardSeedsandSpiced

Oil),137–38KhanomChan(Nine-LayerCoconutTapiocaCake),139–40KhanomThuay(Salty-SweetBeanPuddingswithCoconutCreamTopping),

141–42KhaoTomMat(Leaf-WrappedRiceandBananaBundles),259–60KibbetRaheb(LemonyLentil–ChardSoupwithBulgurDumplings),207–8KirschenServiettenknödel(“Napkin”BreadDumplingswithCherries),231–32Kletski(Spoon-DroppedSemolinaDumplings),90–91Kluski lskie(SilesianPotatoDumplingswithMushroomSauce),105–6

KohlrabiandPork,RiceDumplingsStuffedwith,130–31Kroppkakor(PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithHam),103–4KubeMutli(CockleswithRiceDumplingsinaSpicyCoconutSauce),123–24KurogomaMushipan(BlackSesameCupcakes),165–66

Kv tákováPolévkasKnedlíky(CauliflowerSoupwithButteryBreadCrumbDumplings),121–22

L

Lamb-FilledDumplingsOven-Simmered,withMintedYogurt,156–58Spicy,inaThickYogurtSoup,153–55

Lard,rendering,11Lard,vegetariansubstitutesfor,34LeafBread,aFreshCorn“Tamale,”199–200Legumes.SeealsoLentil(s)

Leaf-WrappedBlack-EyedPeaDumplings,265–66VegetableSambhar,249

LemonCurd,CanaryPuddingwith,203–4LemonyLentil–ChardSoupwithBulgurDumplings,207–8Lentil(s)

-ChardSoup,Lemony,withBulgurDumplings,207–8andOnionPierogi,324–25andPumpkinRavioliwithBrownedButterandRosemary,356–58

Lotus-LeafFold,54Lotusleaves,about,29LuoBoGao(DaikonCake),320–21

M

Mandu,TofuandMushroom,161Mandu(DumplingsStuffedwithPorkandCabbage),159–61Manti(Oven-SimmeredLamb-FilledDumplingswithMintedYogurt),156–58Mantou(SteamedBreadRolls),72–73Markklösschensuppe(MarrowDumplingsinBeefBroth),79–80Masa

about,10BallSoup,135–36ChocolateTamales,380–81Fresh,TamaleBatterfrom,188Fresh,188–89harina,about,10Harina,TamaleBatterfrom,189Pineapple-PecanTamales,184–85Potato“Tamales”StuffedwithChickenandJalapeño,326–27

Masala,CoconutCurry,178MatzoBallsinaBeefBroth,143–44Maultaschen(LargeBeef-andSpinach-FilledDumplingsinBeefBroth),351–53Meat.SeealsoBeef;Lamb;Pork

buying,forrecipes,16choppingfine,16salted,cured,smoked,ordried,16vegetariansubstitutesfor,33

Milk-SteamedBunswithVanillaCustardSauce,95–96Mochi(PoundedRiceDumplings),84–85Modak(Coconut-FilledRiceDumplings),270–71Molasses,forrecipes,20Moyin-Moyin(Leaf-WrappedBlack-EyedPeaDumplings),265–66Muscovadosugar,about,20Mushroom(s)

-AsparagusBreadDumplingsinaMushroomSauce,173–75Buns,Fresh,183Buns,Small,181–83andChicken,PanfriedDumplingsStuffedwith,110–12andKashaPierogi,127–29

“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwith,inaBeetSoup,359–61Sauce,SilesianPotatoDumplingswith,105–6

selecting,forrecipes,16–17andTofuMandu,161

N

“Napkin”BreadDumpling,324–25“Napkin”BreadDumplingswithCherries,231–32NuoMiCi(RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPeanutandCoconut),245–46NuoMiJi(Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithChickenandBamboo

Shoots),192–94NuoMiJuan(SteamedBreadLoavesStuffedwithStickyFriedRice),101–2Nuts.SeealsoPeanut(s)

CabinetPudding,aCakeandAlmondCookiePudding,237–38ChestnutGnocchiwithWalnutSauce,107–8ChestnutRavioliwithSageButterSauce,384–86Coconut-FilledRiceDumplings,270–71Pineapple-PecanTamales,184–85RatafiaCookies,239

O

OatandHoneyPudding,287–88Oil,grapeseed,12OkraandDumplings,BoiledFishwith,167–68Olives,Green,andJalapeño,PorkTamaleswith,217–19Onde-Onde(SweetPotatoDumplingswithaMeltedSugarCenter),115–16Onion(s)

Chutney,252Chutney,IdliStuffedwith,248hand-wilting,37andLentilPierogi,324–25forrecipes,17Sauce,Spicy,Chickpea“Fish”ina,315–16

OxtailSauce,78OysterandBeefStewwithSuetDumplings,293–94Ozoni(NewYear’sDaySoupwithPoundedRiceDumplings),86–87

P

PachesdePapa(Potato“Tamales”StuffedwithChickenandJalapeño),326–27Palitao(FlattenedRiceDumplingswithGratedCoconutandAniseSugar),197–

98Palmsugar,about,20Pamonhas(FreshCornandCoconut“Tamales”),233–34Pandanleaves,about,15PandanWater,117Panela,about,20Pastaflour,about,22PastelesdeYuca(Cassava“Tamales”StuffedwithPorkandChickpeas),81–83PeachandBerryGrunt,255Peanutbutter

GroundnutSoup,172Peanut(s)

andChicken,Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwith,222–24andCoconut,RiceDumplingsStuffedwith,245–46andMincedPork,TapiocaBallsStuffedwith,272–74andSausage,Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwith,301–2

Pears,Figs,andChocolate,DumplingsStuffedwith,354–55Pecan-PineappleTamales,184–85Pelmeni(SiberianMeatDumplings),382–83Peppercorns,about,14Peppercorns,Sichuan,about,15Peppers.SeealsoChile(s)

ChickenPaprikawithDumplings,311–12Sofrito,83

Pichi-Pichi(CassavaPattieswithGratedCoconut),256Pierogi,CheddarCheeseandPotato,322–23PierogizKaszGryczan(KashaandMushroomPierogi),127–29

PierogizSoczewic(LentilandOnionPierogi),324–25

Pinched-TopFold,52Pineapple-PecanTamales,184–85PisareieFaso(TinyGnocchiandCranberryBeanStew),118–20Plantain(s)

about,17Balls,Beef-Stuffed,inaCassava-CornSoup,328–29andCassavaFufu,172DumplingsinChickenBroth,229–30green,peeling,17

PleatedHalf-MoonFold,46Plums,Sugar-Stuffed,PotatoDumplingsStuffedwith,299–300Pork.SeealsoHam;Sausage(s)

BaconandSageRoly-Poly,318–19andBeans,Leaf-WrappedRiceBundlesStuffedwith,267–69Broth,395BrothwithMexicanFlavors,395Buns,Small,179–80andCabbage,DumplingsStuffedwith,159–61andChickpeas,Cassava“Tamales”Stuffedwith,81–83andKohlrabi,RiceDumplingsStuffedwith,130–31Minced,andPeanuts,TapiocaBallsStuffedwith,272–74andShrimp,StickyRiceDumplingsStuffedwith,212–13andShrimpDumplings,Bottlenecked,242–44SiberianMeatDumplings,382–83SlipperyRiceBallsinCabbage-RadishSoup,169–70vegetariansubstitutesfor,33WontonswithRedChileOil,261–62

Potato(es)baking(russet),about,18boiling(YukonGoldandred-skinned),about,18Buns,Graham,289–90andCheddarCheesePierogi,322–23ChestnutGnocchiwithWalnutSauce,107–8cooked,peeling,18andDumplingBoil-Up,68–69Dumplings,No-Fuss,305–6Dumplings,Silesian,withMushroomSauce,105–6

DumplingsStuffedwithHam,103–4DumplingsStuffedwithSugar-StuffedPlums,299–300DumplingswithCabbageLayers,374–75DumplingswithCroutonCenters,345–46Gnocchi,76–77GnocchiwithOxtailSauce,77gratedraw,workingwith,18riced,comparedwithmashed,18Sweet,DumplingswithaMeltedSugarCenter,115–16“Tamales”StuffedwithChickenandJalapeño,326–27Turmeric-Stained,WheatDumplingsStuffedwith,148–50

Poultry.SeealsoChicken;Turkeybuying,18

“PriestStranglers”withBrownButterandSage,74–75PruneSauce,SteamedBunsCookedin,98PuddingBagFold,58PuddingBasinSetup,43Puddings,steamed

Bean,Salty-Sweet,withCoconutCreamTopping,141–42Cabinet,aCakeandAlmondCookiePudding,237–38Canary,withLemonCurd,203–4Carrot,Spiced,307–8ChocolateBreadCrumb,92–93Christmas,Classic,378–79ClootieDumpling,367–69Cranberry,338–39LayeredAppleandBread,291–92LordRandall’s,anApricotDessert,341–42OatandHoney,287–88StickyToffee,343–44

PumpkinandLentilRavioliwithBrownedButterandRosemary,356–58Pumpkinseeds

TheArmoftheQueenTamale,220–21PuttuKadala(CoconutandRiceColumnswithChickpeaCurry),176–77Pyzy(No-FussPotatoDumplings),305–6

R

Radish.SeeDaikonradishRaisinsClassicChristmasPudding,378–79ClootieDumpling,367–69JohnintheSack,376–77Pineapple-PecanTamales,184–85SpicedCarrotPudding,307–8

RavaIdli(MildYogurtSemolinaCakes),295–96RaviolidiCastagne(ChestnutRavioliwithSageButterSauce),384–86RaviolidiPesce(FishRavioliwithaThinnedCreamSauce),209–11RaviolidiZuccaeLenticchie(PumpkinandLentilRavioliwithBrownedButter

andRosemary),356–58Rice.SeealsoRiceflourandBananaBundles,Leaf-Wrapped,259–60

basmati,about,19Bundles,Leaf-Wrapped,StuffedwithChickenandPeanuts,222–24Bundles,Leaf-Wrapped,StuffedwithPorkandBeans,267–69Cakes,LightlySoured,247–48andCoconutColumnswithChickpeaCurry,176–77Dumplings,Cockleswith,inaSpicyCoconut

Sauce,123–24Dumplings,Pounded,84–85Dumplings,Pounded,NewYear’sDaySoupwith,86–87Dumplings,Pounded,StuffedwithStrawberries,190–91Muffins,Steamed,AWealthof,71Packages,Leaf-Wrapped,StuffedwithChickenandBambooShoots,192–94Packages,Leaf-Wrapped,StuffedwithPeanutsandSausage,301–2rinsing,19sticky,about,19StickyFried,SteamedBreadLoavesStuffedwith,101–2varieties,forrecipes,18–19

Riceflourbuying,forrecipes,19Coconut-FilledRiceDumplings,270–71FlattenedRiceDumplingswithGratedCoconutandAniseSugar,197–98

RiceandTapiocaDumplingsToppedwithShrimpandBeanPaste,215–16RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPeanutandCoconut,245–46RiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandKohlrabi,130–31SlipperyRiceBallsinCabbage-RadishSoup,169–70StarchyCoconutStewwithSlipperyRiceBalls,369–70StickyRiceDumplingsStuffedwithPorkandShrimp,212–13

S

SadaIdli(LightlySouredRiceCakes),247–48Sage

andBaconRoly-Poly,318–19andBrownButter,“PriestStranglers”with,74–75ButterSauce,ChestnutRavioliwith,384–86

SakooSaiMoo(TapiocaBallsStuffedwithMincedPorkandPeanuts),272–74Salt,forrecipes,19SambharPowder,250Sauces

Caramel,340Cream,94Hard,373Oxtail,78Prune,98Soy-Vinegar,112VanillaCustard,97

Sausage(s)DaikonCake,320–21andPeanuts,Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwith,301–2SteamedBreadLoavesStuffedwithStickyFried

Rice,101–2SchwammerlKnödelmitSpargel(Mushroom-AsparagusBreadDumplingsinaMushroomSauce),173–75

Semolinaabout,22

andBreadLoaf,285–86Dumplings,Spoon-Dropped,90–91DumplingswithButterandCheeseSauce,65–66YogurtCakes,Mild,295–96

Serviettenkloss(“Napkin”BreadDumpling),324–25Sesame(seeds)

Black,Cupcakes,165–66Black,Roll-Ups,205–6

ShaMomo(WheatDumplingsStuffedwithBeefandOnion),151–52ShaoMai(BottleneckedPorkandShrimpDumplings),242–44

SheeshBarakbiLaban(SpicyLamb–FilledDumplingsinaThickYogurtSoup),153–55

Shellfish.SeealsoShrimpBeefandOysterStewwithSuetDumplings,293–94CockleswithRiceDumplingsinaSpicyCoconutSauce,123–24vegetariansubstitutesfor,34

ShogoMomo(WheatDumplingsStuffedwithTurmeric-StainedPotatoes),148–50

ShrimpandBeanPaste,RiceandTapiocaDumplingsToppedwith,215–16driedorsalted,about,13andPork,StickyRiceDumplingsStuffedwith,212–13andPorkDumplings,Bottlenecked,242–44

Single-HuskTamaleFold,53Sofrito,83SopadeBolitasdeMasa(MasaBallSoup),135–36SopadeBolitasdePlátanoVerde(PlantainDumplingsinChickenBroth),229–

30SoupeauxMiquesetauxChoux(CountryCabbageSoupwithLargeCornmeal

Dumplings),347–48Soups.SeealsoBroth;Stews

Bean,withTinyDumplings,313–14Beet,“LittleEar”DumplingsStuffedwithMushroomsina,359–61Cabbage,Country,withLargeCornmealDumplings,347–48Cabbage-Radish,SlipperyRiceBallsin,169–70Cassava-Corn,Beef-StuffedPlantainBallsina,328–29Cauliflower,withButteryBreadCrumbDumplings,121–22ChickenandDumpling,283–84Coconut,Sweet,TaroBallsina,201–2Escarole,Chicken-FilledDumplingsinan,387–89

Groundnut,172Lentil-Chard,Lemony,withBulgurDumplings,207–8MasaBall,135–36MatzoBallsinaBeefBroth,143–44NewYear’sDay,withPoundedRiceDumplings,86–87PhiladelphiaPepperpot,withDumplings,349–50PlantainDumplingsinChickenBroth,229–30RedPea,withSpinners,257–58ThickYogurt,SpicyLamb-FilledDumplingsina,153–55

Sourcream,forrecipes,23Soysauce,about,15Soy-VinegarSauce,112Spätzle(Butter-TossedSpaetzle),67SpicemixturesBerbereSpice,317

CoconutCurryMasala,178PuddingSpice,239SambharPowder,250

Spices,forrecipes,14–15Spices,grinding,15Spinach

andBeef-FilledDumplingsinBeefBroth,351–53“PriestStranglers”withBrownButterandSage,74–75

Squash.SeePumpkinStandingHalf-MoonFold,48Stews

BeefandOyster,withSuetDumplings,293–94ChickenFricotwithDumplings,281–82ChickenPaprikawithDumplings,311–12CockleswithRiceDumplingsinaSpicyCoconut

Sauce,123–24Coconut,Starchy,withSlipperyRiceBalls,369–70CoconutandRiceColumnswithChickpeaCurry,176–77CollardGreenswithCornDumplings,309–10CranberryBean,TinyGnocchiand,118–20Pepperpot,SweetandDark,andDumplings,240–41Turkey,withStuffingDumplings,336–37VegetableSambhar,249

StickyToffeePudding,343–44Strangolapreti(“PriestStranglers”withBrownButterandSage),74–75Strawberries,PoundedRiceDumplingsStuffedwith,190–91StuffingDumplings,TurkeyStewwith,336–37Suet

Dumplings,BeefandOysterStewwith,293–94raw,chopping,11rendering,12vegetariansubstitutesfor,34

Sugar,typesof,20ŠvestkovéKnedlíky(PotatoDumplingsStuffedwithSugar-StuffedPlums),299–

300SweetPotatoDumplingswithaMeltedSugar

Center,115–16Syrup.SeeGoldensyrup

T

Tamale,TheArmoftheQueen,220–21TamaleBatterfromFreshMasa,188TamaleBatterfromMasaHarina,189TamaleFold,Single-Husk,53TamaleFold,Two-Husk1(Wide),55TamaleFold,Two-Husk2(Long),59TamalesdeChocolate(ChocolateTamales),380–81TamalesdeElote(CornTamalesStuffedwithStringyCheeseandPoblano),

263–64TamalesdePollo(TamalesStuffedwithChickenandTomatilloSauce),186–87TamalesdePuerco(PorkTamaleswithGreenOlivesandJalapeño),217–19TamalesDulces(Pineapple-PecanTamales),184–85TangYuan(SlipperyRiceBallsinCabbage-RadishSoup),169–70Tapioca

BallsStuffedwithMincedPorkandPeanuts,272–74CoconutCake,Nine-Layer,139–40flour,about,7pearls,about,7andRiceDumplingsToppedwithShrimpandBeanPaste,215–16

TaroBallsinaSweetCoconutSoup,201–2TingMomo(Cloud-ShapedBreadBuns),99–100TofuandMushroomMandu,161Tomatillo(s)

Potato“Tamales”StuffedwithChickenandJalapeño,326–27SauceandChicken,TamalesStuffedwith,186–87

Tomato(es)TheArmoftheQueenTamale,220–21peelingandseeding,21Sauce,ChickpeaDumplingsin,125–26SauceandMintedYogurt,Chive-StuffedDumplingswith,145–47

Treacle,about,20Turbinadosugar,about,20TurkeyStewwithStuffingDumplings,336–37Two-HuskTamaleFold1(Wide),55Two-HuskTamaleFold2(Long),59

V

VanillaCustardSauce,97VarenikisYablokami(BuckwheatDumplingsStuffedwithApplesandCheese),

297–98Vegetable(s).Seealsospecificvegetables

Root,BreadDumplings,365–66Sambhar,249

W

WalnutSauce,ChestnutGnocchiwith,107–8Water

boiling,replenishingcookingpotwith,22cookingwater,usesfor,22forrecipes,21–22

WheatDumplingsStuffedwithBeefandOnion,151–52DumplingsStuffedwithTurmeric-StainedPotatoes,148–50flours,forwheat-baseddumplings,22

WhippedCream,Sweetened,94Wholewheatflour,about,22WontonswithRedChileOil,261–62

X

XiangGuBaozi(SmallMushroomBuns),181–83

Y

YeshimbraAsa(Chickpea“Fish”inaSpicyOnionSauce),315–16Yogurt

Minted,andTomatoSauce,Chive-StuffedDumplingswith,145–47Minted,Oven-SimmeredLamb-FilledDumplingswith,156–58SemolinaCakes,Mild,295–96strained,preparing,23strained(Greek),buying,23Thick,Soup,SpicyLamb–FilledDumplingsina,153–55

Z

ZhongZi(Leaf-WrappedRicePackagesStuffedwithPeanutsandSausage),301–2

ZhuRouBaozi(SmallPorkBuns),179–80Zöldséggombóc(RootVegetableBreadDumplings),365–66

AbouttheAuthors

WAIHONCHUwas inHongKongandnowlives inNewYorkCity’sChinatown.AftergraduatingfromtheCityUniversityofNewYork,hepursuedhisculinarytraining at the Art Institute of New York and has cooked in a number ofprominentrestaurants inManhattan. In1999,he launchedElEdenChocolates,whichgrewintoanEastVillagestorefrontofferingmorethantwenty-fivetrufflevarietiesnationwide.ChucurrentlyworksasacookinginstructorattheInstituteofCulinaryEducation,theNaturalGourmetInstitute,andtheBoweryCulinaryCenteratWholeFoodsMarket.

CONNIELOVATTwasbornandraisedinSt.Thomas,U.S.VirginIslands.AgraduateofSarahLawrenceCollege,sheworkedatPoets&Writers,Inc.,asdirectoroftheNewYorkReadings/Workshopsprogramforanumberofyearsbeforebecominga freelance literary consultant. She currently works as a personal chefspecializinginvegetarian,vegan,andrawfoodcuisine.

Visit www.AuthorTracker.com for exclusive information on your favoriteHarperCollinsauthor.

CreditsJacketdesignbyMarySchuckJacketphotographybyBrandonHarmanPhotographsbyBrandonHarmanIllustrationsbyWaiHonChu

Copyright

THE DUMPLING: A Seasonal Guide. Copyright © 2009 byWai Hon Chu and Connielovatt. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American CopyrightConventions.Bypaymentoftherequiredfees,youhavebeengrantedthenon-exclusive,non-transferable right to access and read the textof this e-bookon-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded,decompiled,reverseengineered,orstoredinorintroducedintoanyinformationstorageandretrievalsystem,inanyformorbyanymeans,whetherelectronicormechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express writtenpermissionofHarperCollinse-books.

AdobeDigitalEditionSeptember2009ISBN978-0-06-195940-0

10987654321

AboutthePublisher

AustraliaHarperCollinsPublishers(Australia)Pty.Ltd.25RydeRoad(POBox321)Pymble,NSW2073,Australiahttp://www.harpercollinsebooks.com.auCanadaHarperCollinsPublishersLtd.55AvenueRoad,Suite2900Toronto,ON,M5R,3L2,Canadahttp://www.harpercollinsebooks.ca

NewZealandHarperCollinsPublishers(NewZealand)LimitedP.O.Box1Auckland,NewZealandhttp://www.harpercollins.co.nz

UnitedKingdomHarperCollinsPublishersLtd.77-85FulhamPalaceRoadLondon,W68JB,UKhttp://www.harpercollinsebooks.co.ukUnitedStatesHarperCollinsPublishersInc.10East53rdStreetNewYork,NY10022http://www.harpercollinsebooks.com

*A“universal”lid(foundatmostkitchensupplystores)fitsoveravarietyofpotsandcanbeusedifyourskilletdoesnotcomewithalid.

*Thisisforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Thisisforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Thisisforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Toensuresafehandlingofhotchiles,wearrubberglovesandwashyourhandsthoroughlyafterward.

*Toensuresafehandlingofhotchiles,wearrubberglovesandwashyourhandsthoroughlyafterward.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Culantro(alsocalledlongcorianderorrecao)isaleafygreenherb.Itissimilarinflavortocilantro,onlystrongerandmorepungent.CulantrocanbefoundatsomeCaribbeanandMexicanmarkets.If

itisnotavailable,youcandoubletheamountofcilantrointhisrecipe.

*A“universal”lid(foundatmostkitchensupplystores)fitsoveravarietyofpotsandcanbeusedifyourskilletdoesnotcomewithalid.

*Toensuresafehandlingofhotchiles,wearrubberglovesandimmediatelywashyourhandsthoroughlyafterward.

*Toensuresafehandlingofhotchilepeppers,wearrubberglovesandimmediatelywashyourhandsthoroughlyafterward.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Thisisforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Thisisforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.

*Theseamountsareforafullrecipe.Ifyouplanonfreezingandstoringsomeofthedumplings,reducetheamountsinproportiontothenumberyouareserving.