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History of Tailoring: Reconstructing the human body in fabric
• Greek & Roman ages people draped fabric over their bodies
• Middle ages: clothing was a means to conceal the body– Loose robe was shortened and
tightened & eventually cut pieced and sewn together to contour to human form
– Birth of tailoring
• Renaissance: clothing a means to accent the body
• Tailoring grew among the aristocrats of Europe and peaked during Louis XIV (1643-1715)
History of Tailoring Cont…
• In the 18th century English moved away from French style (highly decorated) to a more practical style– Somber & serious style– Distinctions between royalty
and commoners disappeared by 19th century
– Modern Tailoring born in the Industrial revolution that emphasized practicality, functionality, and fit
• Today there is still a need for unique and individually designed clothing
Definition of Tailoring
• A process by which the garment design lines are defined and the garment is given a permanent shape and structure of its own.
• Design lines such as collars and lapels are defined by sharp edges and all the lines within the garment should be smoothly curved or perfectly straight.
Types of Tailoring
• Traditional- hand sewing
• Contemporary- techniques that incorporate new materials like fusibles or replacement of hand stitching with machine stitching.
• Custom Tailoring- making a garment for a specific individual
Types of Tailored Garments
• Hard Tailored Garment: – Stiff fabric– Very crisp– Formed details– Built in shaping
• Soft Tailored Garments: – Soft fabrics– Subtle shaping– Not as rigid– Details are crisp– More feminine
Tailoring Concepts
1. Compatibility• Design with wearer• Money with time• Garment with ability
2. Fitting: all patterns need adjusting to your size3. Stabilizing: keeping fabric from stretching and changing
shape. 1. Underlining- sewn as one with fabric2. Interfacing-stabilizes3. Cotton tape- stabilizes seams4. Interlining- for warmth. Fabric is placed between lining and outside like
batting.5. Lining- allows garments to be put on easier
4. Shaping patterns into 3-D: shaping is cutting fabric putting two pieces together and steaming & pressing them.
Tailoring Concepts Cont…
5. Reducing Bulk• Trimming: cutting a seam at the same width- trimming both
seam allowances together• Beveling edges: cutting the seam allowances inside faced
edges by angling the shears; this rounds the seam edges• Clipping: the process of slitting seam allowances up to the
seam on curves. Better than notches because notches weaken the seam.
• Grading: cutting the seam allowances at different widths to reduce bulk
• Pressing & steaming: putting pressure and steam on fabric with an iron to form a sharp edge or flat seam
• Pounding: used for shaping wool• Under stitching: a row of stitching placed close to the edge of
any facing; done before grading and beveling• Top stitching: stitching on the right side of the fabric in rows of
decorative stitching
Garment Life Expectancy
• Swimsuits 2 years• Wool Blazer 4 years• Underwear 1 year• Cotton Suits 2 years• Uniforms 1 year• Dresses 5 years• High fashion evening
wear 3 years or less
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