View
222
Download
3
Category
Preview:
Citation preview
Quality Assurance Product Inspection
&
Testing Capabilities
Prepared on 09/15/2014
1
The International Standards
are strategic tools and
guidelines, designed for
companies to approach a
various demanding challenges
of modern business.
Specifically, the ISO 9000
family is a series of standards,
developed and published by
the ISO. These standards are
currently the most widely
known and most effective. The
ISO 9000 has functioned in
various industries and
organizations as a guide to
quality products, service and
management.
With the help of the ISO
9001:2008, ISA Industrial Ltd.
works to ensure that their
customers continue to receive
consistent, quality products
and services.
2
An independent research
and testing organization
established in 1919. It has
technical facilities in the
UK and China serving
customers throughout the
world.
SATRA is a leading
technical authority for
footwear and leather.
The SATRA systems are
global standards for quality
and production efficiency
The Management System
of our internal laboratories
along with our lab
technicians have all been
accredited by SATRA,
each having all met the
requirements for SATRA
Laboratory Accreditation
Scheme for various test
methods.
3
Dynamic Water Penetration - Maeser
Test Method Name
ASTM D2099 – SATRA TM 34
Standard Test Methods
Maeser test replicates the repeated flexing of the footwear upper
under conditions of water exposure. It is an indication of the
suitability of the leather to resist the conditions of dynamic shoe
flexing, and actual waterproof performance of the shoe.
Technical description
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07
CR/PD 09-03
Applicable Specifications
MIL-DTL-32237B
GL-PD-10-01C
4
Static Water Absorption of Leather
Test Method Name
ASTM D6015
Standard Test Methods
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07
CR/PD 09-03
Applicable Specifications
MIL-DTL-32237B
GL-PD-10-01C
Static water absorption is an indication of the leather ability to
repel water, avoiding the effects of acting like a “sponge” when
exposed to water.
Technical description
5
Leather pH
Test Method Name
ASTM D2810 – ISO 4045
Standard Test Methods
pH of the aqueous extract of leather is an indication of the
presence of strong acid/alkali that could compromise chemical
safety in use and/or performance.
Technical description
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07
CR/PD 09-03
Applicable Specifications
MIL-DTL-32237B
GL-PD-10-01C
6
Hexane Extraction from Leather
Test Method Name
ASTM D3495 – SATRA TM 346
Standard Test Methods
Hexane extraction is an indication of the quantity of oils, fats,
waxes, etc, that define the characteristics of each type of
leather. High values of extractables may compromise the
construction of the shoe, while very low values may indicate
poor lubrication between leather fibers making the leather brittle
and prone to cracking.
Technical description
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07
CR/PD 09-03
Applicable Specifications
MIL-DTL-32237B
GL-PD-10-01C
7
Baumann Tear Strength Test / Slit Tear Resistance
Test Method Name
ASTM D2212 – TM 162
Standard Test Methods
Tear strength, as all mechanical properties of leather, is an
indication of the degree of tanning of the hide, besides indicating
proper performance in shoe construction.
Technical description
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07
CR/PD 09-03
Applicable Specifications
MIL-DTL-32237B
GL-PD-10-01C
8
Bleeding Resistance to Water
Test Method Name
ASTM D6012
Standard Test Methods
Bleeding resistance is an indication of potential color transfer to
other materials under wet conditions when wearing the shoe.
Technical description
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07
CR/PD 09-03
Applicable Specifications
MIL-DTL-32237B
GL-PD-10-01C
9
Total Ash in Leather
Test Method Name
ASTM D2617
Standard Test Methods
Ash content is an indication of the inorganic matter present in
the leather, as a measurement of the quality of the
tanning/finishing.
Technical description
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07
CR/PD 09-03
Applicable Specifications
MIL-DTL-32237B
GL-PD-10-01C
10
Chromic Oxide in Leather
Test Method Name
ASTM D2807
Standard Test Methods
Chromium oxide content is the key measurement to verify the
tanning degree of the leather (chromium tanned). Low values of
Chromium oxide are an indication of poor tanning of the hide.
Technical description
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07
CR/PD 09-03
Applicable Specifications
MIL-DTL-32237B
GL-PD-10-01C
11
Oil/Water Repellency
Test Method Name
AATCC TM118 (mod.)
Standard Test Methods
A drop test with different concentrations of Isopropyl alcohol
gives an indication of the ability of the leather to repel and not to
absorb oils or water from its surface.
Technical description
MIL-DTL-32237B
Applicable Specifications
12
Break/Pipiness of finished leather
Test Method Name
SATRA TM36
Standard Test Methods
SATRA Break scale is a method to assist with measurement of the tendency of the grain of the leather to form wrinkles when bended inwards. It is a simple method to eliminate subjective judgment as much as practically possible.
Technical description
NCTRF PD 02-07
Applicable Specifications
13
Leather Permeability to Water Vapor
Test Method Name
ASTM D5052
Standard Test Methods
Common in all shoe upper material specs
Applicable Specifications
Water Vapor Permeability is a desired feature of upper leather
which at proper values will ensure moisture level into the shoe
will not build up and will “breathe” through the upper.
Technical description
14
Flexibility and Adhesion of Finish Leather
Test Method Name
ASTM D6182
Standard Test Methods
Common in all shoe upper material specs
Applicable Specifications
Bally flex is an indication of the finishing resistance to crack and
crease when repeatedly flexed, emulating the flexing of the
actual use of the shoe.
Technical description
15
Color Fastness to Crocking
Test Method Name
ASTM D5053 – SATRA TM 167
Standard Test Methods
Common in all shoe upper material specs
Applicable Specifications
Color transfer to rubbing is a measurement of the tendency of
surface color to transfer to other components by contact or
friction.
Technical description
16
Tensile Strength and Extension at Leather Break
Test Method Name
SATRA TM 43
Standard Test Methods
Tensile strength and elongation, as all mechanical properties of
leather, is an indication of the degree of tanning of the hide,
besides indicating proper performance in shoe construction.
Technical description
Common in all shoe upper material specs
Applicable Specifications
17
Lastometer Ball Burst Test
Test Method Name
SATRA TM 24
Standard Test Methods
Common in all shoe upper material specs
Applicable Specifications
Lastometer is a very good indication of the ability of leather grain
to withstand lasting operation during shoe making without
cracks.
Technical description
18
Fish Scale Tear Test
Test Method Name
Ref. ASTM D2212 – SATRA TM 162
Standard Test Methods
Common in all shoe upper material specs
Applicable Specifications
Fish scale is a quick manual measurement in production of the
leather resistance to tear, comparable to the Baumann tear
strength.
Technical description
19
Cross Hatch Tape Test
Test Method Name
SATRA TM 406
Standard Test Methods
Cross hatching and applying adhesive tape on the leather
finishing is a quick measurement in production of the adhesion
of the finishing to the grain of the leather.
Technical description
Common in all shoe upper material specs
Applicable Specifications
20
Leather Softness and Thickness
Test Method Name
IUP36 – SATRA TM 1
Standard Test Methods
Common in all shoe upper material specs
Applicable Specifications
Softness and thickness are non destructive test that indicate the
adequacy of the leather to the specified customer orders.
Technical description
21
Color Check
Test Method Name
PHILIPS D65 FLUORESCENT TUBES
GRETAG MACBETH D65 FLUORESCENT TUBES
Equipped with
All customer approved color masters and working standards
Applicable Specifications
Color evaluation is a key control point of appearance of leather.
In ISA we consider and keep under control the three elements
that result in color visual perception: material, incident light and
the color assessor.
Technical description
22
Color Check - Spectralight III
Test Method Name
D65 INCANDESCENT FILTERED TUNGSTEN
TL84 FLOURESCENT TUBES
COOL WHITE FLOURESCENT TUBES
Equipped with
All customer approved color masters and working standards
Applicable Specifications
Color evaluation is a key control point of appearance of leather.
In ISA we consider and keep under control the three elements
that result in color visual perception: material, incident light and
the color assessor
Technical description
23
Farnsworth-Munsell 100 Hue Test
Test Method Name
Chips in 4 Series of Hue Pairs
Standard Test Methods
Applicable to all personnel approving colors. Maximum score
acceptable: 40
Applicable Specifications
Visual test intended to measure the ability of personnel to
discriminate small steps in hue variation, across the entire color
spectrum. The test can detect personnel with low color
discrimination and avoid the risk of poor color matching and
judgment.
Technical description
24
SATRA Sorting
Test Method Name
SATRA Leather Assessment
Standard Test Methods
Common in all shoe upper material specs
Applicable Specifications
All our finished leather sorters are certified by Satra annually as
competent to perform Satra leather assessment method.
Technical description
25
Recommended