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PCSO MRTTraining
Guidelines
1
Overview
Rappelling Safety Review Rappel Commands Munter Hitch Rescue-8 Pass the knot Change Over
2
Safety Backups and Safety Checks
• Tie a double overhand or figure-8 knot in the end of your rope to prevent rappelling off the end.
• Apply weight to anchors and rappelling equipment slowly.
• Bounding Rappels are prohibited.
• Only walk down rappels are to be used.
3
Rope ManagementThrowing The Rope
1.Tie a knot in the opposite end to prevent rappelling off the end of the rope.
4
Edge Transition
• Have your anchor checked by the safety.
• Have yourself safety checked.
• Weight your anchor before you reach the safety line.
• Begin with your feet shoulder width apart.
• Look for footholds before you transition the edge.
• Check for edge pro that may be needed.
5
At the Top“On BelayOn Belay” (”Belay OnBelay On“) if independent belay is used**“On RappelOn Rappel” (“Rappel OnRappel On”)
** For self-belay, response will be from safety officer
At the Ground“Off RappelOff Rappel” (“Rappel OffRappel Off”)“Off BelayOff Belay” (“Belay OffBelay Off”)
Commands
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Rappel Devices
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Rappel Devices
Rescue-8 with earsRescue-8 with ears
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Rigging the Rescue-8
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Rescue-8 Friction Methods
Single wrap Double wrap
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Rescue-8 Friction
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How to avoid dropping your rescue-8
.
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Tie off the Rescue-8
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Rappel Devices
Correct IncorrectIncorrect
Why?
Munter Hitch
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Munter Hitch
Brake must be opposite the gate
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Rappel Devices
Tie Off
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Half-hitch
Overhand
Safety Backups and Safety Checks
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Self-belay Active Independent belay
Safety Backups and Safety Checks
Trainee Support and Rescue
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Safety Backups and Safety Checks
Mission
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Passing the Knot
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Rig Rescue-8below knot and Second prusik
Set prusik, tie offAdd second prusik
Passing the Knot
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Step on rope,Ascender, orPrusik with sling
Stuck Prusik
Tie off Rescue-8, remove upper prusik
Passing the Knot
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Stuck Prusik Stuck Prusik
ASCENDINGASCENDINGPCSO MRTTraining
Guidelines
23
Overview
Ascending Safety Review Ascending Commands Ascender Setup Edge Transition Pass the knot Change Over
24
Safety
The Safety Line is independent of the Main Line.
The safety line will not be used for rigging.
Trainees will have a third line with an active belayer.
Ascenders will be connected to the climber with cowstails.
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Maintain two (2) points of contact.
Each ascender counts as ½ point of contact.
An additional prusik will be applied to maintain two points before ascenders are removed.
Cow’s Tail
Right Stirrup
Right Ascender
Safety Line with
Microcender or prusik as Self-belay
Triangularor Half-moonScrew-link
Equipment
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Cow’s Tail
Left Stirrup
Left Ascender
Safety Line
Equipment
27
Cows Tail
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Right Ascender
Belay Loop
Left Ascender
Approach the Rope at the Ground1. Adjust each ascender so that you can walk up as smoothly2. Attach the self-belay, “On BelayOn Belay” followed by “ClimbingClimbing”3. Start climbing with short steps and steady pace
At Edge1. Slide self-belay over the edge as far up as possible, by standing
on the top and bottom stirrups2. Move up edge toward anchor as far as possible.3. Move to the safe location away from the edge.4. Remove equipment.5. There may be a minor change in sequence due to the rock face.
At top1. Remove the top and bottom ascender from the main line.2. “Off RopeOff Rope”3. Remove the self belay4. “Off belayOff belay”
Equipment
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At the Ground“On BelayOn Belay” (”Belay OnBelay On"), if independent belay is used“ClimbingClimbing” (“Climb OnClimb On”)
At the Top“Off RopeOff Rope” (“Rope OffRope Off”)“Off BelayOff Belay” (“Belay OffBelay Off”)
Commands
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