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42 MARCH the peak
IndonesIan fashIon desIgners seem to be gettIng younger, wIth creatIvIty and ambItIon to match. TiTania Veda sees that once theIr organIsatIonal capacIty catches up they stand to conquer the world.
photography AA KRESNA
Shaping a faShionable future
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the peak MARCH 43
ithin the warehouse-grey
walls of The Goods Dept
in Plaza Indonesia are
tables and racks of latest
and trendiest fashion
items by Indonesian designers – lumberjack
shirts, zipped-up denim jeans, swinging cotton
dresses, and hooded baby jumpers, among
others.
The cuts are simple, solids are
predominant, and fabrics are light. The clothes
are modern, fashionable, and totally wearable
in Jakarta. They cost a fraction of the price of
foreign designer brands.
A few years ago, it would have been hard to
find ready-to-wear pieces from a local designer.
When the upper echelons of society were not
requesting custom-made evening gowns and
bridal wear from the designers, they flocked to
international brand names to maintain their
status symbol.
But a change was due. A new generation of
designers are making their mark by creating
affordable, ready-to-wear lines and collections
featuring traditional fabrics. They are filling
a gap in the Indonesian fashion market,
normally saturated by made-to-order designs
and imported brands.
The rise of Indonesian designers has come
in several waves. More recently, stores carrying
local brands have begun appearing in malls
– Fashion First in Senayan City, Level One in
Grand Indonesia, and The Goods Dept in Plaza
Indonesia.
Coupled with the birth of Jakarta Fashion
Week in 2008, which provided a much-needed
platform for local talent, this support system
has enabled designers to reach larger market
segments.
Many designers, like Soetjipto Hoeijaja,
view Fashion First as the pioneer supporter of
Indonesian designers. The boutique functions
as an incubation hub for young designers,
providing them an opportunity to compete
with international brands and a place to
showcase their ready-to-wear collections.
“Before Fashion First, there was only Biyan
and Seba in the malls. Now there is an increase
in entrepreneurship in the fashion world.
It's created an awareness that Indonesia has
talent,” said Soetjipto, a menswear designer
whose collection can be found in both Fashion
First and his Level One shop.
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44 MARCH the peak
While Fashion First displays high-end collections by local designers who
made their mark in the custom-made market, the middle income bracket
is served by Brightspot Market and The Goods Dept with their cheap and
chic collections. Before it became a permanent store with over 100 brands,
The Goods Dept began as a pop-up market called Brightspot. The organisers
wanted to create something different for the retail scene in Jakarta.
“You saw imported brands like Top Shop and Zara and the local
brands, which were surviving off custom-made orders. Then there was
this group doing something interesting – not high-end custom, not
distros (discount clothing warehouses) but something more exciting and
more fashion-focused,” says Chris Kerrigan, business development head of
PT Bright Spot Indonesia.
As the popularity of affordable local brands soared due to Brightspot
Market, Grand Indonesia created Level One as part of their corporate
social responsibility program. The mall invited 22 designers to open their
own shops, charging them subsidised rent.
“We took the risk of asking the designers to join us. But they had
to promise consistency in quality, quantity, and variety,” says Teges
Prita Soraya, senior marketing communications manager of PT. Grand
Indonesia. “It’s easy enough to put a rack in a store or post your items on
Facebook to sell, but if you have shop in a mall beside top international
brands like Zara and Forever 21, it’s harder,” says Teges.
gaInIng publIc acceptance“The main value of a designer is in his name and products. So it’s easier to
sell if you have an international attachment to it, whether you’ve studied
overseas or have had your products placed there,” says Jeffry Tan, who
launched his brand two years ago. Not all designers are so lucky. But that
is where spaces like Fashion First come in.
“In Indonesia, there are a lot of good designers but they lack
resources. We should nurture and help them,” said Deli Makmur, owner
of Fashion First. “The young talents are the ones shaping our fashion
future,” Deli says.
When Stella Rissa made her debut in 2008, after graduating from
Esmod Jakarta, public acceptance of designers was pretty sparse. “I
wanted to take my brand outside first so Indonesians could appreciate
it when I returned,” said Stella, whose clean-cut designs have entered
boutiques in Jakarta, Bali and Singapore.
But as public awareness grows through these supporting channels, the
market is rapidly moving towards the designers. With the help of fashion
organisations such as Cita Tenun Indonesia and Rumah Pesona Kain,
designers have begun to develop traditional textiles.
Recently, tenun woven fabric is hot on the heels of the omnipresent
batik thanks to high-end designers like Priyo
Oktaviano and newcomer Vinora Ng, who
are constructing new, modern and exciting
silhouettes with the fabric.
“Now women are wearing their Priyo and
Ari Seputra outfits as alternatives to their
Prada,” says fashion guru Muara Bagdja.
Without a doubt, Indonesia’s strong
suit lies in textiles. But not all designers are
veering towards them. “The likes of Jason
Wu and Alexander Wang come from ethnic
backgrounds. Yet each of them has a style that
doesn’t necessarily bring their ethnicity or
countries to the table,” Stella argues.
Many of the younger designers share this
view, eschewing tradition in place of trendy,
modern styles that can be easily produced
by a home industry. A collective, cheap chic
style has emerged. Prices are low, fabrics are
polyester or cotton-based, and more attention
is paid to cuts and layers.
“But,” Muara insists, “even if the prices and
fabrics are the same, if you look at the brands
closely, they have their own uniqueness.
The strength and distinctiveness of a brand
depends on how designers position their
branding in fashion shows and magazine
editorials,” Muara says.
Besides branding, price is also a
determining factor of a designer’s survival.
Consumers understand the value of a custom-
made gown but not necessarily the high price
tag of a ready-to-wear dress.
“Sometimes we feel designers are
underselling themselves, pricing things low
because they don’t think the market will buy
at higher prices,” Kerrigan says.
“What differentiates the generations is
business versus image,” according to Fashion
First owner Deli Makmur. “For the young, a
profit of Rp100,000 is OK as long as they can
cover production costs. The profit they make
won’t be much but their spirit of competition
“now women are wearIng theIr prIyo and arI seputra outfIts as alternatIves to theIr prada,” says fashIon guru muara bagdja.
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the peak MARCH 45
is there – let’s open our business first. While
the seniors are image-driven. They already have
a character. But it’s a process,” says Deli.
rIse of pret a porterNevertheless, ready-to-wear is taking the
country by a storm. Made-to-order designers
are jumping on the bandwagon to get a piece
of the retail pie. Couturiers Deden Siswanto
and Tex Saverio, who specialise in evening and
bridal wear, are planning their second lines.
“As designers we can be more business-
oriented and minimalist in our designs or we
can create fashion as art. I choose to be both,
which is why I'm coming out with my second
line,” says Deden. But he insists on creating
a deluxe second line that won’t appear in
department stores because he understands
that Indonesian consumers remain fashion-
obsessed and image-conscious. “At an event,
they don’t want to see their twins walking
around,” Deden says.
It is for this reason many designers make
only limited copies of each design for their
ready-to-wear collections – one in each size, S,
M, L, or depending on the availability of the
fabric. Vinora is restricted by her choice of
fabric – tenun, which is handmade, takes a long
time to weave, and is expensive.
Others simply chose not to produce
something for the masses because they aren’t
able to compete with cheap imports from
China and Thailand that have permeated the
market. “I don’t want to make something very
commercial because I don’t want to compete
but I don’t want to charge exorbitant prices
either,” says Jeffry, whose price covers the
reasonable range of Rp 250,000 for a shirt to Rp
3.5 million for a frock.
rough waters of retaIlDealing with pricing, marketing and
distribution issues are at the top of every
designer’s checklist. While fashion shows and
events such as Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) help
create awareness of local talent, designers are
(top left)Stella’s current collection is a continuation of ‘Women’s Possession’, which she created for JFW 2010. It is a line she dedicated to all women - “not only those in fashion, but to mothers, and daughters, and wives.”
(top right)Catering for the modern and independent woman, Priyo’s creations embodies pure elegance and artistry, clearly shown in this masterpiece of intricate crochet detailing.
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46 MARCH the peak
concerned retail figures aren’t soaring faster.
“In Indonesia, shows are not yet generating
economy. It is more for marketing because
buyers are still lacking,” says Soetjipto.
This gap between the designers and
consumers is something Svida Alijahbana,
President Director/COO of Femina Group and
chairwoman of Jakarta Fashion Week, is well
aware of: “But it’s a question of the chicken or
the egg. Which should grow first? Our designers
are not known and the attraction for buyers to
come isn’t there yet. We still have to grow, to
bring awareness of our designers and make sure
they’re good,” she says.
This begets the question – are the
designers ready?
Fashion experts agree that designers are
more than capable of competing in the global
arena when it comes to designs and creativity.
But not their capacity.
“If a designer gets an order for 10,000 pieces,
can they handle it, technically?” asks Muara.
Much of the industry is reliant on home
industries. Jeffry Tan’s atelier combines his
office and workshop, which accommodates his
seven tailors. Priyo, who once showcased his
creations to Michelle Obama, has an in-house
staff of 20. Stella has a small workshop in Bali
and Jakarta, but refrains from using traditional
materials because they are expensive and not
easily accessible.
“Designers have production issues. Most
factories won't take small designers so they do
all production on their own,” said Kerrigan.
“Material sources are also an issue. Unless
they are buying in huge quantities (thousands
of metres), there is a big limit on what's
available,” he adds.
a helpIng hand Meanwhile, it is up to the designers. Although
there is insufficient government support
in terms of funding and promotion of local
fashion, there is hope. Designers can tap into
organizations like Cita Tenun Indonesia,
the Indonesian Fashion Designers Council
(IPMI) and the Indonesian Fashion Designers
Association (APPMI) to get better exposure and
reach the global market.
This May, Teges is showcasing her Level One
designers to Blueprint, Singapore’s fashion
trade show, while the Femina Group will be
collaborating with Milan’s leading fashion and
design school, Instituto Marangoni to hold a
three-day seminar for JFW participants.
“The seminar will be an opportunity to help
our designers catch the upcoming trends and
teach them how to create a collection – from
context to design to execution,” says Svida, who
believes Indonesian designers have what it takes
to achieve success in the international stage.
“I hope to see Shanghai, Tokyo, Hong
Kong, Sydney and Jakarta fashion on the rise.
Jakarta has to be on the fashion map because
we don’t only have the designers, but also the
history of textiles and accessories – more so
than any other region. We should do well in all
peripherals of fashion,” she concludes.
His clothes may resemble fashion museum pieces but for image-conscious Indonesians, a Tex Saverio dress allows them to don magnificence. Something like wearing art itself.
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the peak MARCH 47
the WorlD iS their oYSterphotography AA KRESNA
prIyo oKtavIanoIn a matter of seven short years, Priyo Oktaviano
has shot up into the forefront of the fashion
scene because of his flair for the edgy and
eclectic. Celebrities like Anggun and Agnes
Monica and local fashionistas flock to his frocks
and are happy to stimulate the local economy
to obtain one of his pieces – be it a custom-made
gown from his first line, Priyo Oktaviano, or a
funky top from his second line, Spous.
After being invited for three consecutive
years to be a Dewi Fashion Knight – a
prestigious mention during Jakarta Fashion
Week for the year’s hottest designers –
and working under Nicolas Ghesquière at
Balenciaga in Paris, he is certainly a designer
who understands both the Indonesian and the
global market.
His clothes remains bold and fresh, even as
they evolve from using plain European fabric
to exploring traditional Indonesian textiles
such as ikat, tenun and songket. Playing with
fabric and colours, his pieces are consistent
in maintaining the detailing and modern
silhouettes that Priyo has become known for.
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48 MARCH the peak
soetjIpto hoeIjajaOne of the few designers concentrating on
everyday menswear, Soetjipto Hoeijaja, 25, is
partial to the tailored look. The man who decks
himself in No’om by Soetjipto need not be a
metrosexual. He need only be a modern man
who appreciates a bit of the dapper and the
dandy.
With a strong design presence in Level
One, his collection features affordable basic
menswear such as pants, shirts, and vests.
Though he remains conservative when it comes
to his colour palette of blacks and silvers,
No’om is a menswear line that calls upon
Soetjipto’s unique interpretation of classic.
An outfit may look ordinary from afar,
but come closer and the marrying of mixed
fabrics – such as a polyester blazer with a
leather trimmed collar – will be visible. His
upcoming womenswear line, No’mi, keeps to
his loose and tailored style. It maintains a hint
of masculinity, channeling the androgynous
looks of YSL and Celine.
No’mi will be launched in March 2011.
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teX saverIoImagine ballgowns, princesses, ice-queens, and
fairy tales. That is exactly what the elfin Tex
Saverio does - create a fantasy. His dramatic
gowns billow, waists are corseted to shapely
perfection, bosoms are uplifted. A designer
untarnished by formal fashion education, Rio,
27, first burst into the scene in 2010.
His pieces are theatrical spectacles by
themselves, able to be carried by women strong
enough not to be overwhelmed by his evening
and bridal wear. Not to be mistaken for gaudy
glamour, Rio’s gowns are striking but classy
with asymmetrical lines that sweep the figure,
laser cuts, and layered motifs. Each piece takes
two to three painstakingly long months to
design and construct. To add to that, there is
Rio’s unusual choice of fabric, anging from
dyed feathers to synthetic skin. He is, indeed,
one of the few young designers keeping in line
with the Old Guard who treasure the creation
of fashion as art.
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50 MARCH the peak
stella rIssaIf there is anyone who understands a
woman’s curves, it is Stella Rissa. Her choice
of fabric and cuts create silhouettes that fall
ever so flatteringly over a woman’s many
dimensions. Whether she is experimenting
with deconstructed lines or touches upon a
lingerie-inspired theme, Stella creates for the
every woman – for the girl, the mother, the
daughter, the wife, the professional.
Since she burst onto the fashion scene
in 2008 with her debut collection “Dancing
in the Rainbow”, Stella, 25, has consistently
won regional accolades. Creating clothes
to accentuate a woman’s allure, Stella does
timeless with a twist, such as classic lines with
a surprise feature or a dash of fuschia to a
subtle black gown.
During Jakarta Fashion Week 2010, she
held the prestigious title as one of the five
Dewi Fashion Knights. This year she is aiming
higher, fleshing out a deluxe ready-to-wear
line of lace, tulle, and gabardine to clothe the
mature lady in her own boutique.
The Stella Rissa boutique will launch in
Grand Indonesia in early April 2011.
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deden sIswantoBandung-based designer Deden Siswanto is what one would call a
couturier. Since the late ‘90s, he has been fashioning custom-made clothes
for upscale clients – individuals seeking a stand-out piece. A graduate of
Bandung’s Intermodel fashion school, Deden started his career as a simple
tailor working as a children’s clothes designer at a department store.
His was a steady rise. For the last eight years, Deden has been the head
of the Association of Indonesian Fashion Designers (APPMI) of Bandung.
Deriving inspiration from different cultures, eras, and folklore, his clothes
revolves around vintage and romantic styles, with a touch of ethnic.
He is best known for his evening and bridal
wear, swathing women’s curves in waves of
chiffon and organza. Meanwhile, the ready-
to-wear menswear line he developed for the
Fashion First boutique is clean-cut. But the use
of sheer fabrics like voile, and minor detailing
add an impish allure.
A deluxe ready-to-wear line for women is
planned for April 2011.
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52 MARCH the peak
jeffry tanSimple, effortless, and subtle are words
that best describe Jeffry Tan. The designer
from Surabaya took the long way around
to establishing his own brand, which is just
two years in the making. Jeffry, 27, honed his
skills in a side of the fashion industry most
designers do not venture to – working for
five years with fabric manufacturers and in
factories – in order to obtain a wide-angled
view of the fashion machine as a whole.
The result? A limited ready-to-wear line
with pieces that veer on edge of classic and
whimsical, technically sound yet priced
accessibly. On his racks can be found both a
Jackie-O shift crafted out of light wool and a
pair of jeans with cut-out sides and red leather
detailing. His upcoming fall/winter collection
gets cosy with knits and combed wool for
his menswear line, while women will have
a chance to drape themselves in his loose,
layered basics.
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vInora ngA fresh face that will soon be a household name, Vinora Ng, 21, can still
hold her own among the fashion heavy-weights. Her talent was first
recognised when she won the 2009 Fashion Design Competition for her
designs using North Sulawesi weaves.
The Esmod graduate has a penchant for Indonesian textiles, fusing
traditional weaves with straightforward designs. She foregoes the
ubiquitous batik, choosing the thicker weaves of ikat and tenun from
Sumba, Bali, Lampung, and Garut.
She pulls off playful looks like her
voluminous shift in heavy fabrics and artful, with
her seamless gatherings on a five-layered laser-
cut vest. Focusing on high quality traditional
fabrics and dynamic but simple cuts, Vinora is
carving a niche market with her exclusive ready-
to-wear line for both men and women.
Her store is set to open in late 2011.
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