Master Magazine

The History of CostumeReference Book

FOREWORD

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History is the study of the past, with special attention to the writtenrecord of the activities of human beings over time. It is a field of research which uses a narrative to examine and analysethe sequence of events, and it often attemps to investigate objectively the patterns of cause and effect that determine events.

The term costume can refer to a wardrobe and dress in general, or tothe distinctive style of dress of a particular people, class, or period.Costume may also refer to the artistic arrangement of accesories in apicture, statue, poem, or play, appropriate to the time, place or othercircumstances represented or described, or to a particular style ofclothing worn to portray the wearer as a character or type of characterother than their regular persona at a social event.

Reference is the intensional use of one thing to indicate something else.Whilst, a book is a set of written, printed, illustrated, or blank sheets,made of paper, parchment, or other material, usually fastened togetherto hinge at one side.

This is a History of Costume Reference Book.

Kelvin Halim

Laura Ireen Liew

Natalie Zainal

Simone Chelsea Cubinar

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Introduction

Fashion refers to the styles and customs prevalent at a given time.In its most common usage, “fashion” exemplifies the appearancesof clothing, but the term encompasses more. Many fashions are popularin many cultures at any given time. Important is the idea that the courseof design and fashion will change more rapidly than the culture asa whole. Fashion designers create and produce clothing articles.

The term innovation means a new way of doing something. It mayrefer to incremental, radical, and revolutionary changes in thinking,products, processes, or organizations. A distinction is typically madebetween invention, an idea made manifest, and innovation,ideas applied successfully.

This reference book basically preview fashion innovation; current fashion styles that incorporated detailing from the past.

The Contents

THE CHAPTER

Foreword Introduction

PRE-HISTORIC &MESOPOTAMIA

EGYPT, CRETE, MYCANAE,GREECE, ROME

THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE

WESTERN EUROPETHROUGH 11TH CENTURY

15TH CENTURY

16TH CENTURY

17TH CENTURY

THE APPENDIXES

Daria Werbowy by Michael Thompson Draped furs, long-sleeved fur coat

PREHIS

TORICA

NDMESOPOT

AMIA

Daria Werbowy by Michael Thompson Caps of fur worn to keep the head warm

Missoni's Campaign Spring/Summer 2009 Belts

thin stripes of hide to tie around the waist Photographer Steven Meisel

Leather usedphoto by Reuters

UK Vogue March 2009 Editorial Black and White Animal hide short boots

Photographer Nick Knight Model Anja Rubik

Babylonian slanted skirtStylish by Craig McDean

Flair January 2009 Rachel Clark Assyrian

Tilda Swinton by Craig McDean for Another Magazine Fringe, dominant features of the Sumerian costume

H & M Collection by Commes des Garcons for Amica Persian trouser

Photographer Anja Frers Styling Marion Darimont

Hair/Make-up Gabi Speckbacher

Greenpeace TattooStop Killing Whales

Advertising Agency Leo Burnett Hong kongCreative Directors Connie Lo, Chong Kin, Yiu Man To

Art Directors Kenny Ip, Jacky TongIllustrator Thomas HoPhotographer Lewis Ho

Cameron Krone for Contributing EditorThe toga, most renowned Roman

EditorialOur Swords Photographer Cameron Krone

Fashion Editor - Michael Bargo

EGYPTCRETEMYCENAE

GREECEROME

Edita Vilkeviciute and Anna Maria Jagodzinska by Craig McDean

Egypt Middle Kingdom- still transparent fabrics

Tilda Swinton by Craig McDeanAnother Magazine

Pleated tunics and skirtsfell into the fine lineswhich not only emphasized

the cut of the garmentbut also cling to the

body in fluid, pleated lin

Tilda Swinton by Craig McDeanAnother MagazineNecklaces/collars

were made ofgeometrically arranged

natural material

Anna Maria,Viktoriya, Sessilee

by Steven MeiselHat headdress-

inverted plant potresembles a beret

Lakshmi Menon for Dazed and Confused magazine Royalties wear gold, civilian wears linen

MaxMara Spring 2009 Stola, outer tunic

Nicole Kidman by Steven Meisel Greek chiton; better draping, clung to the body and himation; small cloak-like garment www.trendnista.com

Madonna by Steven Klein Strophium, a bust bodice made of unstiffened fabric

Linda Evangelista by Steven Meisel Minoan flounce skirt

Claudia Rogge Design The Byzantines

tended to be very modest about any display of flesh

BYZANTINE EMPIRE

Numero French Issue 99Magie Noire Photography Miguel Reveriego

Styling Capucine SafyurtluModel Jessica Stam

Gizia MagazineThe purple dye

The manufacturing of purple dye was a secret guarded by its imperial manufacturers

KuroiThe Byzantines

tended to be very modest about any display of flesh Photographer Carlos Alsina Stylist Benat Yanci

Tilda Swinton by Craig McDeanAnother Magazine Empress Theodora

for ceremonial purposeswore ropes of pearls

Valentino Haute Couture Collection 2009Jewel-encrusted robe nguyentopoftheworld.blogspot.com

Linda Evangelista by Steven Meisel Paludamentum, or long cloak

Numero Editorial SirenePhotographer Steven Klein Dalmatica

The Byzantines added two changes to this basic formThey enlarged the sleeves, making them large

draping bell shapes, and they broadenedthe hem dramatically

also into a bell shape, allowing the garmentto hang in folds about the legs

Numero Editorial Sirene StolaPhotographer Steven Klein

The stola was part of a layered outfit It was worn over the top of a

long underdress and a shorter tuniceither of which might have had long sleeves

early stolas were sleeveless

Craig McDean for Another MagazineThey layered their clothing

Genevieve for Cheek Magazine 2009 Richer people in the 11th Century use softer furs such as mink

WESTERNEUROPE

THROUGH11TH12TH13TH

CENTURY

Rue Du Mail Fall 2009 Hoods

Christian Dior Haute CoutureBarbarian ArmourFall Winter 2006

Daria Werbowy by Nathaniel Goldberg Fur usage

Daria Werbowy by Nathaniel Goldberg Featured jagged-edge- slitting

Givenchy Haute CoutureSpring/Summer 2009

Veil

Tilda Swinton by Craig McDean Another Magazine

Hennin conical headdress from which trails as veil

Elene Sudakova by Solve SundsboEleanor of Acquitane

bought the flowing gown into fashion

Missoni Spring/Summer 2009 Ad CampaignHigh-waisted gown with decorative belt

Dazed and Confused February 2009Editorial Brazil

Preferance for a range of sartorial elements

Givenchy Spring/Summer 2009Ad Campaign The fashion for puffed sleeves

51 THCENTURY

Numero Korea Magazine Wide, shallow, scooped neckline replaced by a V-neck

Photographer Mariano Vivanco

Sun Goddess UK Harpers' Bazaar July 2009 Houppelande sleeves daggered/cut into scallops

Polina Kouklina by Peter Lindbergh Houppeland, an outer garment

long and full body

Cos Spring/Summer 2009 Chemise/smock, worn next to the skin Editorial Colour Me Carefully,Colours of Summer Photographer Will VanderperreStylist Joe Mckenna

Linda Evangelista by Steven MeiselVerdugada/Verdugado

gown with a bell-shaped hoop skirtwith visible casings,

stiffened with reeds in casingwhich would become the farthingale

The Evangelist for Prive AsiaWinter 2008 Farthingale

Photographer Baldovino Barani Stylist Holly Suan Gray

Make-Up Angie PasleyModel Elyse Sewell

Dior Homme Ad Campaign Spring/Summer 2009 Slashing, to reveal a lining of undergarment beneath

Numero Editorial SireneThe decorative technique known as slashing

involved making small cuts in the outer fabric of a garmentso as to reveal the inner lining

Photographer Steven Klein

Cate Blanchett by Annie Leibovitz for Vanity Fair, February 2009 Farthingale

Emma Watson by Karl Lagerfeld A common use of wire

was to create a kind of dome above the forehead and to attach

a linen cloth that flowed over the back of the head, revealing the hair beneath

6THCENTURY1

Jessica Stam by Solve SundsboSleevesan essential part of the wardrobeso they were made in the samerich fabrics as other garmentsincluding silk and velvetThey often had fancy lace or linen cuffsattached to the ends of the sleeves

Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2009 Mens, Milan Pumpkin breeches(for the lower body),

padded to give them a particular shape

Emma Watson by Karl LagerfeldFancy aprons were trimmed out in decorative lace and might be embroidered with intricate patterns. Aprons attached at the waist with a tie

A Medici collar provided a large, decorative frame around the sides and back of a woman’s head. The collar was typically worn with a gown with a decollete neckline, a low neckline that

revealed a woman’s cleavage

Yasmin Warsame by Steven Meisel Bombast,absolutely essential for both men's and women's clothing.

Form of stuffing-cotton, wool, horsehair, sawdust

Cate Blanchett by Annie LeibovitzVanity Fair, February 2009

The Ruff,wide-pleated collar aroundthe neck. Stiffened with starch/wired

stood out like a wheel around the neck

Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2009 Mens MilanCodpiece

a flad porch sewn at the top of man's hose

Nick Rae by Dimitri Theocharis Periwig, essential item for men's fashion in the 16th Century

Javier Artiñano La Conjura Del Escorial jasonThe Ruff

A wide pleated collar, often stiffemed

Stella Tennant by Nathaniel Goldberg Middle century head wear [dutch women]

17CENTU

RY

TH

Miss Shaped by Steven MeiselLight muffs might be made of

double layers of satin or velvetstuffed to provide insulation

Interview March 2009 Mary-Kate Olsen by Craig McDean Stomacher also provided an important decorative element to women's gowns

They were often covered in a fabric that contrasted with the rest of the bodice

Heidi KlumVogue Germany EditorialStomacher, most basic form. A long V- or U- shaped panel that decorated the front of the bodice extending from neckline down to the waistPhotographer Claudia Knoepfel & Stefan Indlekofer

VogueDevon Aoki

falling band collar it fastenedat the neck and draped

over the shoulder and might be plain

Hair Storm by Solve SundsboFontange

Curled or frizzed, women’s hair was worn swept up into high pilesat the beginning of the century

fluffed at the sides during mid-century, and again at the end of the century, worn quite tall, in towering fontange hairstyles

Photographer Anja FrersStyling Marion Darimont

Hair/Make-up Gabi Speckbacher

H & M Collection by Comme des Garcons For Amicahose, a precursor to knit stockings.

Hose were made from a loosely woven fabricand they were cut on the bias, or diagonally,

which allowed them to fit the legs snugly

state of graceBustles

consisted of various objects, including cushions, pads, and frames made of wire and wood,

that were tied around the waistor directly attached to a woman’s skirts

Photo by Mario Testino

West East MagazineThe New PuritansCravat Steinkerk

Twist the ends of the cloth and stuckit through a buttonhole in

their waistcoat or justacourpsPhotographer Baldovino Barani

Styling Holly Suan Gray

Nicole Kidman by Steven Meiselfalling band/collar

Made of unstiffened silk or cambrica fine linen

The Appendixes

HTTP://WWW.TRENDNISTA.COMHTTP://MEN.STYLE.COMhTTP://WWW.FASHIONENCYCLOPEDIA.COMHTTP://WWW.HAUTECOUTURESHOW.BLOG125.FC2.COMHTTP://WWW.ARTANDCOMMERCE.COM