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Help London’s bees ❋ Food deserts ten years on ❋ Organic coffee
Just our cup oftea:
London’s love for Fairtrade food
winter 2011
issue 30
Freemagazine
Sustainable fish swaps
Is your detox ethical?
www.hubbub.co.uk
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Hubbub helps you get hold of, and cook with, the very best quality seasonal fruit and veg, meat, bread, fish, and more. Plus you’ll save time, avoid over-enthusiastic traffic wardens and support independent shops without even leaving your home. You can’t shop much more local than that.
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Tuck in!4 Bulletin
6 Around Town
7 Shop WindowMelroseandMorgan
8 To MarketSuttonFarmersʼMarket
8 What’s in season
11FeatureFooddeserts12Feature FairtradeinLondon14 Local to LondonProvidenceOrganics
15Feature SustainableFishCity16 FeatureIsyourdetoxethical?19Capital Growth
19Growing Calendar
20Reader’s KitchenJemimaRoberts
21 London Food LinkWestminsterArtisans
22What’s on
TheJellied Eel isaquarterlymagazinepublishedbyLondonFoodLinkandBIGMedia.Ithasacirculationof20,000andisdistributedtoallLondonFoodLinkmembers,aswellasfoodretailers,restaurantsandentertainmentvenues.Disclaimer:inclusionofinformationintheJellied EeldoesnotimplytheproductorserviceisendorsedbyLondonFoodLinkorSustain.Wedonotcondonetheconsumptionofjelliedeels,asmanyeelstocksarecurrentlyverylow.
EditorBenReynoldsDeputyEditorKellyParsonsBIGMediaDirectorJamieFordArtdirectionanddesignClareHillContributorsMattAtkinson,MichaelDees,JenniferGaskin,ClareHill,GeorgieKnight,TomMoggach,AnnaSbuttoniandMichaelWaleCoverAndrewEthuruofMichimkuruteacompanyandCafédirect,byJulianWinslowEditorialenquiriesben@sustainweb.orgor02078371228www.londonfoodlink.orgDistributionenquiriestostocktheJelliedEelthejelliedeel@sustainweb.orgor02078371228Advertisingandsponsorshipenquiriesjamieford@mac.comorphone07900496979
PrintedbyStonesthePrinters
T hephrase“neverwasteagoodcrisis”seemstobeonmanylipsoflate,echoingthearchedeyebrow
ofdisbeliefasrevelationisheapeduponrevelationaboutwhatthenewgovernmentcancomeupwithnext.WhileIcanonlyreallypasscommentontheschemesdreamedupthataffectfood,itwouldappearthatthereisaslightlyabsurdtrendemergingwhichwillwindtheclockbackfromyearsofprogress.Thisisnomoreevidentthaninthehealthsector.Wehaveseenfrontpagenewsofthegovernment’sdecisiontoleavenutritionpolicytothecompaniesthatarearguablymosttoblameforthestateofthecountry’sdiets.Farfromfollowingʻthepolluterpaysʼprinciple,itwouldappearitpaystobeapolluter–ifyouaren’tcausingenoughdamagetothenation’shealth,thenyoudon’tgetaseataroundthetable!Joiningthecompaniesonthese‘responsibilitydeal’networksareahandfulofhealthexperts,manyofwhomalreadyadmittheydon’tthinkthisapproachwillwork.Ihopeyoudon’tthinkmealazy
liberal,astakingaswipeatgovernmentpolicyhasneverbeeneasier.Butvoluntarymeasures,thesortsofwhicharebeingprescribedbyAndrewLansleywhohassetupthenetworks,donotwork.Hastrafficlightlabellingbeenadoptedbyallcompanies?No.Areallsupermarketsabidingbythecodeofconductforfairdealingwiththeirsuppliers?No.Havealljunkfoodcompaniesstoppedpromotingtheirproductstochildren?No.Weneedtomakeitcleartogovernmentthathandingoverfoodandhealthpolicytobigbusinesswillnotdo.PleasesignthepetitionʻUKHealthDepartment:StopSeekingAdvicefromJunkFoodProducersʼathttp://chn.ge/bHIFBLandwatchthisspaceformoreaction.
Lookingbeyondhealthtoanothercrucialissue:fishstocks.Wehavefoundmanycompanieswhosupporttheideaofalevelplayingfieldforbuyingstandards–somethingthatcanonlybeproducedbylegislation.Inthemeantime,theOlympicshascreatedacateringstandardbanningall‘atrisk’species(asidentifiedbytheMarineConservationSociety)fromgamescatering.BuildingonthemomentumfromtheseOlympiccommitments,andthesupportoftheMayorofLondon’sbodies(thepolice,firebrigadeandTransportforLondon),we’rebackinganewcampaign–SustainableFishCity.Butmanymorecoulddoworsethanusingtheruleofthumb:‘avoidingtheworst,promotingthebest,andimprovingtherest’toallaspectsofLondon’sfishconsumption(Seepage15).ButIdon’twanttoleaveyouin
theʻsloughofdespondʼ–thereisplentytocelebrate,asshowninthestoriesoverthefollowingpages.NonemoresothanFairtradeFortnight,whicharrivesattheendofFebruary(Seepage12),bringingwithitawelcomesupplyofchocolate,teaandcoffee(andobviouslymuchmore)tohelpcheerupourearly2011.
BenEditor
Say hello to theJellied Eel
Photo: Pamela Troni
British
Interactive
Media
Association
Awards
Local food delivery service Hubbub beat Tesco to win top prize in the Retail, Services & Utilities category
Beans mean fairTheFairtrademarkhasbeenpoppinguponsomeunexpectedplacesrecently–likebakedbeansandbeansprouts–thankstoanewFairtradestandardforpulses.ThewhitekidneyandmungbeansbehindthesenewarrivalscomefromagroupoffarmerslivinginoneofChina’spoorestregionsinInnerMongolia,andpremiumsfromthesaleswillbeinvestedinlocalschools.www.seriouslyorganic.co.uk
Cafédirect São Tomé instant hot chocolate
SãoTomé,alsoknownasChocolateIsland,issteepedincocoafarminghistory.Ithasanunparalleledreputationforgrowingsomeofthemostprizedcocoabeansonearth,duetoitslocationontheequator,richsoilsandtheperfectbalanceoftemperature
foundthere,alongwiththehumidityandforestshade.Onlyfouringredientsandnoaddednasties!www.cafedirect.co.uk
First Fairtrade product from Afghanistan AfghanraisinshaveareputationforbeingamongthebestanywhereandTropicalWholefoodshasbeenworkingwithinternationalNGOMercyCorpsandtheParwanRaisinProducerCo-operative,basednearKabul,tobringthemtotheUK.Becauseofsecurityintheregion,Fairtradeauditorshaven’tbeenabletocarryoutphysicalinspections,butthankstoacompromiseonthecertificationprocess,wewon’tmissoutonthesesucculent,high-qualitydriedfruit.www.tropicalwholefoods.com
Shoppingbasket
Fairtrade
BBC Food &FarmingAwards2 010
Joint runner up Best Drinks Producer Sipsmith, London
Joint runner up Best Food Market Growing Communities, London
www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/features/ffa/2010/finalists
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 5
Food waste tips❋ Planyourportions–ensureyoudonʼtoverdoyourdinnerbyusingthishandytool:www.lovefoodhatewaste.com/everyday_perfect_portions
❋ Checkstoredfruitandveglikeapplesorsquashestomakesuretheyʼrenotoff–touseupquicklyjuicethemormakesoupandfreeze
❋ Mashupoverripebananasanduseincakes,muffinsorpancakebatter
MaresaBossano
A lesson in good food TheLondonSchoolofEconomics(LSE)wasoneof22organisationsrecognisedattherecentGoodFoodonthePublicPlateawards,runbySustainandtheGreaterLondonAuthority.Theawardscelebratethosenon-profitorganisationsworkingtomakesurethemealstheyservearenotonlytastyandvalueformoney,butgoodfortheenvironment,andwinnershavemadeoneormoresignificantchanges.LSE,forexample,convertedtousingonlyfreerangeeggsandcompostsfoodwaste.CateringmanagerLizThomassaid:“Incircumstanceswherethereisconstantpressureoncostreductionitwouldbeeasytoignoresustainability,animalwelfareandethicalsourcing.Howeverwearecommittedtoimprovingthelotofworkersandanimalsinthefoodchainandreducingnegativeenvironmentalimpact.”OtherwinnersincludedSuttonCouncil,nowservingschoolchildrenfishfromcertifiedsustainablesources,andImperialCollege,whichbuysseasonalvegetablesfromafarminKent.Forafullreportseewww.thejelliedeel.org
London lager
Meantime’snewlageruseslocalingredients(Kentishhops,East-AnglianbarleyandLondonwater).Producedintheirnewpurpose-builtbreweryinGreenwich,LondonLageriscoldmatured(ieleftalone!)forsixweeksbeforeitgetssenttoshopsandpubs.YoucanfindthebeeratanumberofoutletsaroundLondon,butforthefullrange,gotoitspubTheGreenwichUnion.www.greenwichunion.comwww.meantimebeers.com
Rootsy delightsDescribedas‘rootsy,healing,refreshingandflavourfulwithakicktoit!’,RootsGingerBeeristhecreationofTottenham-basedveganfoodanddrinkmanufacturer,MightyVegDelights.Madewithfreshgingerandfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,andasprinklingofFairtradesugar,italsomakesagreatmixerforcocktails.Fordetailsonwheretobuygotowww.mightyvegdelights.com
Spice Caravan falafelThefalafelmadebySpiceCaravan,arefugeecateringenterprisebasedinNorthLondon,mightbeinspiredbytheflavoursofMorocco,Egypt,SudanandEritrea,buttheyarenowmadewithlocally-growndriedfieldbeansfromtheUK!TrythematQueen’sParkfarmers’marketonthefirstandthirdSundayofthemonth.spicecaravan@hotmail.com
Shoppingbasket
4 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
A new market for food vouchersHealthyStartvouchers–whichprovidemilk,freshfruitandvegetables,andinfantformula,topregnantwomenandfamilieswithyoungchildrenthatareoncertainbenefits–arenowacceptedbyLondonFarmers’Markets.Stallholderssigneduptotheschemesofarare:MilletsFruit;BuryLaneFarmShop;Ted’sVeg;WildCountryOrganics;BrambleTyeFruitFarmandManorFarmShop.Checkonlineatwww.lfm.org.uktoseewhichmarketstheyappearat.
BulletinAspreadofthelatestsustaina
blefoodnews
Sustainable fish sandwich surveyWetrawledaroundLondon’ssandwichsellerstofindthemostethicalofferings.ThejointwinnerswereMarks&SpencerandtheCo-opfortheirexcellentfishbuyingpoliciesandcommunicationtocustomers.Forthefullreportonoursurvey,includingtheworstoffenders,pleaseseewww.thejelliedeel.org
Photo: Robin. Creative Commons http://bit.ly/hW386j
6 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 7
stroud green
around townGet into what’s happening in your area
taking it to the streets again City / sW1Street Kitchen will be taking its New York-style food truck on the road again in early 2011, with plans to pop up in the City, and also around Sloane Square. In the first venture of its kind in the UK, last October saw Jun Tanaka, executive chef at Pearl Restaurant, and Mark Jankel, chef and founder of The Food Initiative, take to the streets of London in an Airstream kitchen, cooking up British seasonal food for Londoners to eat on the go, with all produce bought directly from sustainable and organic UK farms and producers.
Follow @streetkitchen on twitter for updates
ChiCkens in (grey) Court tW10Grey Court School in Ham, Richmond, is one step closer to its dream of setting up a school farm. With the help of local campaigning group School Food Matters, it reached the finals of ITV’s People’s Millions competition, winning funding to keep free range hens in secure enclosures on the school grounds, and set up an egg-selling enterprise. As well as helping other local schools rear chickens, Grey Court will have a ‘hen hotel’ in the holidays for all local school chickens, cared for by the part-time poultry keeper, who will also teach students and locals about chicken keeping. Local families can also get involved, by boarding some chickens in the holidays.
www.schoolfoodmatters.com
PeoPle’s kitChen oPens for business WC1The People’s Supermarket co-operative in Lamb’s Conduit Street now features a kitchen, turning food from the store which would otherwise go to waste, into ready-prepared meals. A broken bag of lentils becomes a spicy dahl, bruised apples are used for apple crumble, and damaged oranges equal an orange cake. Lasagnes, curries, quiches, salads and soups are prepared with no additives or flavouring, from recipes supplied by the supermarket’s founder, chef and sustainability pioneer Arthur Potts Dawson.
www.thepeoplessupermarket.org
tottenham
riChmond
City
bloomsbury
Chelsea
next stage in the CyCle n4Station House Community Café is the first of a series of cafés to be launched by food-recycling project FoodCycle. The café uses FoodCycle’s model of combining young volunteers and surplus food to create nutritious meals and positive social change in the community, and is open every Friday lunchtime, at MIND, Station House, 73c Stapleton Hall Road, N4 3QF.
www.foodcycle.org.uk
windowSHOp
Afterestablishingagrocery/deliinPrimroseHillin2004,ownersNickSelbyandIanJamesrecentlyopenedasistershopinHampstead.ClareHilltookapeek…AccordingtoNick,theideabehindMelroseandMorganis“torecreatethefeelofafarmers’marketsevendaysaweek.”Albeitasmallandstylishone–withartfullymismatchedVictoriantilesandshelves,anddoorshewnfromrecycledcheeseboardsandvintageschooldesks.LiketheoriginalstoreinGloucesterAvenue,NW1,the
newshop,justacrossfromHampsteadtube,sellsarangeoflarderingredientssuchasoils,vinegarsandpreserves,aswellasbread,milk,packagedmeat,eggs,cheesesandseasonalfruittobuyloose.Theothersideoftheirofferingispre-preparedfood,foreatingnowordinnerlater:thinkdoorstepeggandcresssandwiches,cottagepie,heartysoupsandchickencurry.Acentraltableheaveswithfreshlybakedcakes,tarts,pastriesandbiscuits–allpreparedonsiteorinMelroseandMorgan’sproductionkitcheninChalkFarm.Deliveriesaremadewiththecompany’selectricvan.Acommitmenttoqualityandsustainableandlocal
foodisreflectedinthestandardofproduce.Allthemeatisfree-rangeandorganic,thesamegoesforeggsandmilk.AndatMelroseandMorgan,therereallyisnocod–theirfishpiecontainspollackandorganicfarmedsalmoninsteadoftheover-fishednationalfavourite.FamiliarnameslikeNeal’sYardCheeses,MonmouthCoffeeandChegworthValley(applesandjuices)arealsostocked.Regent’sParkhoneyisproudlyonsaletoo–acaseofmeasuring‘foodyards’not‘foodmiles’.Nicksaysthattheopeningoftheoriginalstorereceived
quitealotofpress,asoneofanumberofestablishmentsblazingatrailforBritish,local,seasonalfoodsixyearsago.“Weweresocommittedto‘Britishness’werefusedtosellcroissants,andmadeourownChelseabunsinstead.”ButMelroseandMorganalsopridesitselfonlisteningtoitscustomers,andheconcedesthatabalancealwaysneedstobestruck:“Chicken,leekandprunesteweventuallygavewaytocoqauvin,andwedonowsellcroissantsandthingslikechorizo.Wecouldn’tbeallaboutboiledbeefandcarrots.”
OrielHall,OrielPlaceNW31QNwww.melroseandmorgan.com
broadWater’s harmony gardens n17 At the end of last year, the public decided to award £50,000 to Harmony Gardens, a Haringey community gardening project, as part of The People’s Millions – a partnership between the BIG Lottery Fund and ITV. The project, run by charity Back2Earth, works with the local community to provide flourishing, local food-growing community gardens, on the empty ground around the Broadwater Farm Community Centre. The project also aims to provide: green gyms and community vegetable growing, with raised beds for easy access; a cordoned fruit tree tunnel walkway; a productive, organic children’s nature garden; beekeeping with beehives; a polytunnel for propagation; and a potting shed/eco building.
www.back2earth.org.uk
Melrose and Morgan
tufnell Park balCony garden Provides £669 of food n19Can you grow £500 worth of food without a garden or an allotment? That’s the target North London resident Mark Ridsdill Smith set himself in May last year. And by 8 October he’d already beaten it by £169 – all from his 9 x 6 foot north-west facing balcony and six window sills. “Few people realise just how much you can grow in a tiny space” said Mark. “My balcony and window sills produced the equivalent of 100 bags of salad, 120 packets of herbs and 92 punnets of tomatoes – as well as runner beans, courgettes, mange tout, carrots, potatoes, blueberries and strawberries.” He added: “A big advantage of balcony growing is that you can keep a constant eye on your crops and harvest your food five minutes before you eat. It doesn’t get fresher than that!” Even if you have only a few windowsills, you can still grow several hundred pounds of food a year. Mark estimates that over £200 of food came from his four south-facing window sills.
www.verticalveg.org.uk
tufnell Park
Photo: Terrie Schweitzer. Creative Commons http://bit.ly/gDEvBr
To market what’s in JAnuAryCrab A surprising starter for dinner with friends. Buy a whole crab and honour the crustacean with pride of place on the kitchen table. Roll up your sleeves, then get cracking with a hammer and skewer. Look for pot-caught crabs over 14cms wide, and buy whole crabs rather than crab claws (claws are often removed from live crabs, with the clawless crabs then
put back in the sea to starve). Also avoid egg-bearing
females to give them a chance to breed; crabs tend to spawn in the winter months. Also in season beetroot, celeriac, horseradish, Jerusalem
artichokes, leeks, red cabbage, rock oysters,
scallops (choose dive caught), swede.
FeBruAryForced Rhubarb More pricey than outdoor rhubarb, with tender stalks of vivid pink. Roast until tender in a moderate oven, adding a generous sprinkle of brown sugar, lemon zest, and squeeze of orange juice. Also in season Brussels tops and sprouts, cabbage, kale, mussels, onions, pollack, purple sprouting broccoli, rock oysters.
MArCHChicory Often paired with nuts and blue cheese, but your best bet is in the oven. Cut in half lengthways, dab with butter and honey, season and then roast until golden. Bacon, thyme, and hazlenuts are optional extras. Also in seasoncauliflower, kohlrabi, outdoor rhubarb, radishes, wild garlic.
Tom Moggach
Sutton farmers’ market
seasonTownSquareandMillenniumGardensHighStreet,SuttonSM11DU9.30am–1.30pmFourthSaturdayofeverymonthwww.ecolocal.org.uk/markets
E verymonthahoardoflocalfarmersandproducersdescendsontheleafySouthLondonboroughofSutton,bearing
freshlocalproduce,includingfruitandvegfromPerryCourtandBessboroughFarms,freerangepork,chicken,gamefromJAKeeninDorking,pluseggs,cheese,jams,chutneys,bread,cakesandconfectioneryandmuchmore.ThemarketisaccreditedbyFARMA,
theco-operativeoffarmersandproducerssellingonalocalscale,andisorganisedbylocalenvironmentalcharityEcoLocal.Peoplevisittobuyhome-producedfood:
“It’salwaysexcellentqualityandit’sgoodtosupportlocalgrowersandproducers,”saysacustomerbuyingajarofjam.“We’reawareofglobalwarmingandwedon’tlikeourfoodtrekkedaroundtheworld.Ifyouhaveapotoflocaljamyou’lltastethedifference.”Theywereright:thejamnotonlytasted
deliciousbut‘plum,appleandelderflower’isaflavourcombinationunlikelytobefoundontheshelvesofthelocalsupermarket.ItwasproducedbyKushCuisine,
runbyhusbandandwifeteamIanandSadieJennings.Ianisachefwithover20years’experience:“Ioriginallycreatedourrangeofpreservesformyfamilyandfriendstoenjoy,”hesays.“Nowwe’reproducingchutneys,jamsandmarmalades,sauces,spicerubsandmarinades.”TonyfromPerryCourtFarmtookgreat
pleasureinshowingoffhislineofair-driedapplecrisps,ahealthyalternative
tofriedpotatocrisps:“PeoplecometothemarkettobuyBritishandforthefreshnessofthefood,”hesayspointingtohisdisplayoffruitandveg.“Thosesaladswerepickedyesterdayafternoonandbaggedlastnight–that’salmostasgoodasgrowingyourown.Supermarketswantaseven-dayshelflife.”
❋ Featured stallholderJ A Keen & Son Dorking, SurreyThisisafamily-runbusinesssituatedonEtherleyFarmatthefootofLeithHill.It’saNationalTrusttenantfarm,managedwithintheCountrysideStewardshipSchemetopreservethenaturalhabitatandbeautyofthesurroundingcountryside.Itspecialisesinproducingpoultry:“chickensandducksareavailableallyearround,whilstturkeysandgeeseareproducedseasonallyforChristmas,EasterandThanksgiving,”saysCharlieKeen.“Wehaveasmallfarmshopwhereallofourproductscanbebought,includingfreerangechickenandduckeggsandarangeofhomemadepreserves,andacampsite,perfectlysituatedforarelaxingweekendinthecountry.”Thelatestadditiontothefarmisthereinstatementofanoldorchard.YoungtreeswereplantedinJanuary2009,withtheintentionofhavingfruitforsaleinthecomingyears.http://etherleyfarm.co.uk
ByMichaelDees
Food markets around London
8 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
JAKeen&Sonʼspoultrystall
Photo: G
arry Knight. C
reative Com
mons http://bit.ly/dJfM
nF
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Register NOW to make your bowl count
Bowl over povertyhold a Super Soup lunch Friday 25 March 2011
Complete and return this form to: Super Soup Lunch, Christian Aid, Freepost, London SE1 7YY
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Register NOW to make your bowl count
Bowl over povertyhold a Super Soup lunch Friday 25 March 2011
Complete and return this form to: Super Soup Lunch, Christian Aid, Freepost, London SE1 7YY
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Christian Aid will not pass your details on to any other organisation. If you already receive information from Christian Aid we will continue to send it, unless you tell us otherwise by writing to us at Supporter Relations, PO BOX 100, London SE1 7RT. If you are new to Christian Aid, please tick if you do not want to receive information from us
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Londonmaybeoneoftheworld’sleadingfoodiedestinations,butbehindthefaçade,variousprojectsareworkinghardtotacklefoodaccessproblemsthatstillblightthecity.ByKellyParsons
Ten years after the issue was highlighted some projects have made a genuine difference, but food deserts are still a problem in London
taking awayhealth inequality
D espitebeingonlyafewmilesapart,ifyoutraveleastontheJubileelinefromWestminstertoCanningTown,eachofthetubestopsrepresentsayearoflifeexpectancylost.That’seightyears
inlessthan20minutes.AndwhenyoualightintheboroughofNewham,youʼllbesurroundedbyover250hotfoodtakeawayshops,athirdofwhicharefried-chickensellers.
Itwasstatisticslikethesethatpromptedafloodofresearchandproposalson‘fooddeserts’and‘foodaccess’tenyearsago,aspolicymakersattemptedtoaddresssomeofthecapital’sfoodinequalities.Butadecadelater,London–oneoftheworldʼstopgastronomiccities,withitsthrivingsustainablefoodmovementandFairtradeaccolades–isstillhometosomeoftheworsthealthdeprivationinthecountry.TheHealthMinister’srecentlyannounced
plantooverhaulourpublichealthpolicyismoreevidencethat,despitesomanyprojectsaimedatimprovingaccesstohealthyfood,thesameissuespersist,andeducationaloneisn’thavingabigenoughimpact.Governmentinitiativeslike5-a-day,Change4Life,andtheFoodStandardAgency’ssaltandfatcampaignsmayhaveraisedpublicawareness,buttheyhaven’tchangedthefactthatincertainpartsofthecity,ninepercent
ofmenandsixpercentofwomenstilleatnofruitandvegatall.Tacklinghealthinequalitiesusedtomeancommunity
foodco-opsbeingparachutedintoareasofLondonbypublichealthdepartments.Butmorerecentlythere’sbeenashifttowardsmoresustainablesolutionstofoodaccessproblems.
Andwherebettertostartthanthelocalcornershop?Oftenlocatedatheartofdeprivedareas,localshopscanhaveahugeinfluenceonhowpeopleeat.Buthowoftenhaveyoupoppedintothecornerstoreforsomeveg,onlytobefacedwithacoupleofshrivelledcarrotsandsomeoverripebananas?Notexactlyinspiringifyouarelookingforsomethingtocookfordinner.BuywellandEatwell,twostrandsoftheWell
Londonproject,havebeenhelpingretailersandcommunitymemberstouptheirgame,linkingtogethertheneedforgoodfoodwiththerightsuppliers.OneofBuywell’saimsistoconnectshopswithproviders
ofaffordableproduce,andencouragethemtosellmorelocal,seasonalfruitandvegetables.IthasworkedwithstoresinneighbourhoodsalloverLondon,witheachretailerreceivingpersonalisedbusinesssupport,freshproducetraining,Change4Lifemarketingmaterialsandalauncheventtohelpthemsellmorefreshproduce.AndEatwellhascomplementedtheretailworkbyintroducingcookingclubs,andcommunityfeasteventstogetmorepeopleinthecommunitycookingandeatingfreshproduce.Thecurrenteconomicclimatemeansthat,nowmorethan
ever,theabilityofcommunitiestobuyhealthyaffordablefoodisunderpressure.Tenyearssincetheissuesoffoodaccesswerebroughttoourattention,somegreatprojectshavemadeagenuinedifferencetopeople’slives.Butultimately,theproblemsinthesefooddesertsare‘systemic’.Ratherthansolvingtheproblem,theworktodatehashighlightedthescaleanddifficultyofthesechallenges,andreinforcestheneedforgovernmenttotakethisissuemoreseriously.www.sustainweb.org/buywellwww.london.gov.uk/welllondon/projects/eatwell
Photos: www.londonshopfronts.com
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 13
KellyParsonstalkstocampaigners,caféowners,caterers,councillorsandevenavisitingKenyanteagrower,abouttheirexperiencesofFairtradefoodinthecity
theotherendofthesizespectrum,saysGilesBurton,hospitalitymanagerforAvenance,catererforastaffrestaurant,12kitchensand37meetinganddiningroomsatCitylawfirmBaker&Mackenzie.“WehavegonefromoneFairtradeproducttwoyearsagotoarangeofhousewines,fruitjuices,teas,coffee,bananas,sugarsachetsandmore,andmanagingthattakestime,”hesays,“butpeoplearesurprisedtoheartheproductsaren’tnecessarilymoreexpensive.”Thecoffeeandteadon’tcostanymore,neitherdocoffeebeansusedbyitsinternalbranchofStarbucks,anditsFairtradeorangejuiceisactuallycheaperthannon-Fairtradeequivalentsitusedinthepast.“Largecorporationsaren’tsilly,”
hesayswhenaskedwhythefirmisembracingFairtrade.“Theyknow
theyhavetotakeactionlikethisnoworthey’lllagbehindcompetitors.Andasacontractcaterer,whenwedosalestendersweareincreasinglyaskedaboutourapproachtocorporatesocialresponsibility.”
Keep drinking
ButperhapsthemostconvincingargumentcomesfromteagrowerAndrewEthuru,boardmemberofsocialenterpriseCafédirect,andchairmanoftheMichimikuruteacompanyinKenya,whichbecameFairtrade-certifiedin2007.“WhenIflytoLondonitmakesmehappytoseeourteabeingsold,”hesays,“knowingthefundswillbeploughedbackintomakingbettertea,byimprovingourenvironmentalpracticesandincreasingqualitycontrols,”thoughheiskeentopointoutthatnotallFairtradeorganisationsreinvest
profits,asCafédirectdoes.But,hewarns,Londoners
shouldn’tassumetheirworkisdone–hisplanstogetotherproducersinvolvedrelyonuskeepingupoursupport,throughplentyofqualityFairtradeteaandcoffee-drinking.“ThereisanimpressionthatFairtradeisasuccessandhasnowdoneitsjob,butinfactourorganisationissellinglessthanacoupleofyearsago,mainlybecauseofunscrupulousfactoriesproducingmachine-pickedbulkblendedteasinthenameofFairtrade.”Hisadvice:lookbeyondthelabelandgobytaste.Ifyoulikeit,buymore.“Ilovedrinkingourtea,ifyouhavetencupsadayyouwillbejumpingupanddowningoodhealth,butIcan’tdrinkitall,soI’mhappyforthepeopleofLondontobuyandenjoytherest!”
irstofall,let’sgiveourselvesapatontheback:Londonisofficiallytheworld’s
largestFairtradecity.Twenty-oneoutofits33boroughshaveachievedcertifiedstatus.It’salsohometosomeofthemovement’smostsuccessfulorganisationsandcompanies,includingTwin-trading,thepioneeringorganisationinitiallyfundedbyKenLivingstone’sGreaterLondonCouncil25yearsago,DivineChocolate,Cafédirect,andnowLiberationnuts.That’snottomentionthemanyindividualsandgroupsaroundthecitypromotingfairlytradedfoods.Over1,000retailersand600cateringoutlets
inthecapitalnowsellarangeofproductscarryingthefamousFairtrademark,includingiconicLondoninstitutionsliketheBritishLibrary,theLondonEyeandtheHousesofParliament.Butaswithanyrelationship,
there’sarealdangerofusgettingcomplacent,particularlyinlightofthecurrentsqueezeoncouncilbudgetsandconsumerpurses,saysFairtradeLondon’scampaignco-ordinatorMalcolmClark.“NoboroughhasyethaditsFairtradestatusrevoked,”saysMalcolm,“butthechallengeistoensurecouncilsdon’twithdrawsupportforfinancialreasons.Therearealsosomeboroughs,likeBarnet,WandsworthandWestminster,wherethereisgrassrootssupport,butthecouncilisthemainstickingpointtobecomingFairtrade-certified.”Harrowcouncilhasbeenstuck
inFairtradelimboforyears.ThreeyearsagolocalsupporterspersuadedittopassaresolutioninsupportofFairtrade,butachangeinadministrationresultedinlessinterest,andthesteeringgroupfolded.Nowthecounciliskeen
torevivethegroupintimeforFairtradeFortnight2011,saysleadcouncilmemberontheHarrowFairtradeboroughcampaign,NanaAsante.“Today,everybodywantstobeethical,andpayslipservicetojustice,butnoteveryonereallybelievesinitortakesaction,”shesays,addingthatshe’sheartenedbythewaypeopleintheboroughhaveembracedtheidea.AcampaignhasbeenunderwaytoencouragelocalstoincludeFairtradeitemsintheirshopping,andlocalbusinessestoconvert.Aborough’sFairtradestatus
dependson:thecouncilpassingaresolutionsupportingthecauseandagreeingtoserveproductsin
meetings,officesandcanteens;arangeofproductsbeingavailableinshopsandservedinlocalcafésandrestaurants;andworkplacesandcommunityorganisationssupportingFairtradeandusingproducts.
Tiny price to pay
OnebusinesshelpingEnfieldboroughqualifyisMyCoffeeStop,acaféontheplatformofEnfieldChasestation.Co-ownerKarenMercerhadn’tevenheardofFairtradeuntilshehappenedacrossaleafletthreemonthsbeforeopeninghernewventurelastyear.Shewassoldontheconceptinstantly,shesays,andhassincebecomeoneoftheborough’smostardentFairtradesupporters,sittingonitssteeringgroupandputtingonpromotionaleventsforFairtradeFortnight.“Youwouldn’tbelievehowfarpeoplewilltraveltosupportFairtrade,”saysKaren.“We’remeanttobeforcommutersbutpeoplearesodrawntheyvisitusratherthanthehighstreet,andIhaveonecustomerwhocameallthewayfromChingfordtotryourtea!”And,shepointsout,theinvestmentrequiredtotake
anethicalapproachismoreabouteffortthanmoney.“Findingproductstakestime,becausethereisnoonesupplierwitheverythingweneed,butfinanciallyforeachcupofcoffeethepricedifferenceislessthan1p,whichmakesyourealisewhatatinypriceitistopaytosupportFairtrade.”Time,ratherthancost,isalsothe
biggestinvestmentforbusinessesat
12 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
havering
Camden
barnet
enfield
Waltham forest
redbridge
barking & dagenham
bexley
bromley
greenWiCh
neWham
leWishamWandsWorth
brenthaCkney
ealing
harroW
haringey
hounsloW
Croydonsutton
merton
kingston uPon thames
riChmond uPon thames
hillingdon
1
2
3
4
5
6
78
In some boroughs like Barnet, Wandsworth and Westminster there is grassroots support, but the council is the main sticking point to becoming Fairtrade-certified
Malcolm Clark, Fairtrade London
Fairtrade Foundations
1 hammersmith & fulham2 kensington & Chelsea3 Westminster4 islington
5 City of london6 toWer hamlets7 lambeth8 southWark
fairtrade borough
soon-to-be fairtrade borough
non-fairtrade borough What you can doThoughFairtradehasbecomeentrenchedinLondon’seatinghabits,asalways,there’smoretobedone.Twelveboroughshaven’tyetmadetheFairtradegrade,soit’simportanttokeepthepressureuptoensuretheydo,saysHarrow’sNana.“Residentsmusttelltheircouncillorstoleadbyexample,”shesays.“IfLondonisaFairtradecitythenallboroughsshouldbecertified.”TheforthcomingOlympicsalsoofferanopportunity
toincreaseFairtradecommitments.“TheOlympiccommitteehasalreadyshownwillingnesstosethigherstandardsonethicalproducts,andtobereceptivetopublicpressuretogofurther,”saysFairtradeLondon’sMalcolmClark.“That’showcommitmentsweresecuredforalltea,coffee,sugar,bananasandchocolatesnacksusedinofficialOlympiccateringtobeFairtrade.Now,wewanttoencouragecaterersinandaroundthesitestobuyFairtrade,andmakesurethereisnobacktrackingfromtheseoriginalcommitments.”
SignuptotheFairtradeLondonmailinglistatwww.fairtradelondon.org.uk
14 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
H enryDimblebyisoneoftheco-foundersofLeonRestaurants,whichhaseightoutletsaround
London.Therestaurantshaveabuyingpolicythattakesintoaccountflavour,quality,provenanceandsustainability,withapubliccommitmentthatstates:‘Anyfishthatweuseisfromsustainableshoals’.Inpractice,thismeansthattheLeon
menuavoidsusingendangeredspeciesofwhitefish,andfeaturesmoresustainablespeciessuchasmackerel,anoilyfishthatisalsobetterforhealth.Likemanyfoodoutletsandcaterersacrossthecity–bigandsmall,sellingluxuryandeverydayfoods–ithasshownthatsustainablefishisachievableandaffordable.Henryisalsoafounderofthe
SustainableRestaurantAssociation,whichhelpsotherrestaurantsandcatererstoadopthealthandsustainabilitystandards.Astheassociationexplains,‘Sustainabilityisgoodforbusinessandtheplanet.Sustainablefish,recycledwaste,energyefficiency:itʼswhatmoreandmorecustomerswant’.Leonisnotaloneincallingforaction.
Concernforfishstockshasbeenrising,withapeakofactivityinLondonlastyear,offthebackoftheEnd of the LinedocumentaryandtheEvening Standard’scampaigntogetBlueFintunaoffthemenu(thoughalas,high-endrestaurantNobuisstillservingit!).WhileJamieOliverandaplatterofothercelebchefsaregearinguptotackletheplightoffish,Londonhasacampaignofitsown,aimingtobecomethefirstcapitaltoriditselfofunsustainablefish.Sustain’sKathDalmeny,who
isworkingontheSustainableFishCitycampaign,explainswhythisiswhatLondonneedsrightnow:“Fishneedourhelp.Thereisareal
dangerthatwecouldlosethispreciousnaturalresourcefromouroceansforever.Weneedtohelpfish,fishermenandmarineenvironmentsbyinsistingonbuyingseafoodonlyfromsustainablespecies,stocksandfishingmethods.Theadviceonsustainablefishisquitesimple:avoidtheworst,promotethebestandimprovetherest.SustainableFishCitycanshoweveryonehow.”Thecampaignhasarangeofhigh-
profiletargetsagainstwhichitwilljudgeitssuccess,andaimsforallLondoncouncilstoservesustainablefish.AtitslaunchinJanuary,the
campaignalreadyhadanumberofinfluentialsupportersincludingtheNationalTrust,Sodexo,GreenwichUniversity,TheSchoolofOrientalandAfricanStudies,GoldsmithsUniversity,ImperialUniversityandtheGreaterLondonAuthorityfamily(MetropolitanPolice,theLondonFireBrigadeandTransportforLondon),aswellasaveritableshoalofsmallerfoodcompaniesandindividualsupporters.TheJellied Eelisbackingitscallfor
commonsenseandweimploreyoutojointhisvitalcampaigninwhateverwayyoucan(seebox),whetheryou’reapunter,companyfoodbuyer,orworkforanorganisationthatcatersformeetingsorevents.We’rekickingoffinthisissuebylookingatthestateofthecity’ssandwiches(seepagethree),andwillbekeepingyouuptospeedonthecampaignasitprogresses.
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 15
What you can do
1Changethefishyoubuy2Influencethefishthatotherpeoplebuy3Inspireotherstojoinin!
Wanttofindouthowtodothis?Gotowww.sustainablefishcity.net
Giveover-exploitedoldfavouritesarestbytryingsomeofthesedeliciousalternatives:
Oldfavourite
Alternatives
Haddock ❋ Coley–oftensoldassaithe ❋ MSC-certifiedhaddockfromScotlandorNorway
Cod ❋ Line-caughtpollackfromCornwall ❋Coley ❋ MSC-certifiedAlaskanPollock ❋ MSC-certifiedcodfromtheArctic,AtlanticandPacificoceans
Plaice ❋ Flounder,daborlemonsole–caughtbyottertrawlorseinenet ❋MSC-certifiedplaice ❋MSC-certifiedDoversole
Skate ❋ Starry,spottedandcuckoorays
Halibut ❋Red,greyortubgurnard ❋ MSC-certifiedPacifichalibut
JanuarysawthelaunchoftheSustainableFishCitycampaign,whichasksLondonerstotakeactiontosavefishstocks.BenReynoldsfindsoutwhatit’shopingtoachieveandwho’sbackingit
Fins can only get better
SUSTAINABLE F ISH C ITY?
W henJamesDeeblewentback-packingaroundSouthAmericainJanuarylastyearheendedupinColombia,moreparticularlythenorthernSierraNevadamountainregion.
Itwasajourneythatledhimtodiscoveragroupofuniqueindigenouscoffeefarmers,andresultedinhimbringingtheirFairtradeorganiccoffeebacktoLondon.Hehadalreadydecidedtostartabusinessonhisreturn.
“Iwantedacompanythatcombinedmypassionforcoffeewithaninterestinexcitingculturesandtheenvironment.”hereflects.“ColombiaisthebiggestArabicacoffeeproducerintheworld,andthere’salotofgoodcoffeesthereIcouldhaveimported,butIwantedacoffeethatalsotoldastoryaboutwhereitwasgrownanditsfarmers.”
Inhiscoffeequest,hegotpermissiontovisittheprotectedcommunityoftheArhuacoIndiansbasedintheSierraNevada.Historically,theindigenousfarmershaven’thadaneasyride,Jamessays,andovertheyearshavehadtodealwitheverythingfrombattlingwithSpanishcolonisers,totheColombiandrugwaraffectingtheirhome.Butthecommunityhasmanagedtomaintainitstraditionsandfarmingpracticesforhundredsofyears.“Theirorganiccoffeeisgrowninsmallfarms,1,300metresabovesealevel,andharvestedbyhand.AllthecoffeeisFairtrade-certified,andtheadditionalpremiumhelpsthecommunitycontinuewithitstraditionalfarmingpractices,andsupportsthefamilies.”Jamesexplains.TheArhuacoareaninterestinggroupwiththeirown
languageandspiritualbeliefs,whichfocusontheprotectionoftheSierraNevada,whichtheycall‘motherearth’.Theydothisthroughmaintainingtheirenvironmentwithsmall-scalesustainableagriculturethatdoesn’tdamagetheland.Theyhaveneverusedchemicalfertilisersorpesticides,andthewaterusedinthefarmingprocesscomesfromlocalmountainsprings,soallthecoffeetheygrowiscertifiedorganic.James’snewcompany,ProvidenceOrganics,basedin
Richmond,WestLondon,importsthegreencoffeebeansdirectlyfromColombia,andtheyarelocallyroasted.“Wearedifferenttoalotofcoffeecompaniesinthatweimportthegreenbeansourselves,”hesays,“whichcansometimesbedifficultbecauseoftheworkinvolvedinimportinggoodsintotheUK,butitwasimportantformetomeetthefarmersandbuythecoffeefromthesource.”Whileheishappytotalkaboutthedifferentissues
surroundingexportingandimportingofthecoffee,itisclearlythesocialsidethatreallyenthusesandrewardsJames.HeisproudforhiscoffeetobecertifiedorganicandFairtrade,andisinregularcontactwiththefarmerstokeepupdatedontheircommunityandcurrentcoffeecrops.“IcanreallyseehowFairtradeworkstohelpthegrowersinvolved.I’vewitnessedfirst-handthedifficultiesfarmersfaceinpoorcountries,andknowtheadditionalpremiumtheyreceivecanreallymakeadifferencetotheirlives.”
ToreadmoreaboutthestorybehindProvidenceOrganicsandforsalesvisitwww.providenceorganics.co.uk.YoucanalsofindJamessellinghisFairtradeorganiccoffeeatvariouseventsinandaroundthecapital.
A taste of the Colombian mountains lands in West LondonMichaelWalediscovershowoneman’stravelstothecoastalmountainsofColombialedtoaspecialityFairtrade-certifiedcoffeebeingdrunkacrossthecapital
local to london
Photos: Elizabeth Waight
16 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
MichaelDeesinvestigatesthesustainability,andscience,behindourannualJanuary‘cleanse’
I fyouoverdiditwiththemincepiesandsherrythisfestiveseason,youmightfindyourselftemptedbythepromisesofthe
manydetoxprogrammesonoffer.Butbeforeyoupartwithyourhard-earnedcash,takeamomenttoconsiderhowethical,orevenhownecessary,yourdetoxmightbe.Forstarters,muchofthefruitor
vegsuggested–suchasstrawberriesorsalads–islikelybeoutofseasonintheUKatthistimeofyear,inwhichcasetheymayhaveeitherhavetravelledthousandsofmiles,orbeengrowninheatedpolytunnels–bothofwhichuselargeamountsofenergywhichbumpsupyourecologicalfootprint.Bettertogoforrootveg
likecarrots,parsnipsandbeetroot:allavailableatthemoment.Beetrootishighinvitaminssuchasbetacaroteneandfolicacid,andsomepeopleclaimthatregularlyeatingbeetrootisgoodfortheliverandevenhelpsreducetheincidenceofheartdisease.Therearealsolotsofgreenvegetables
suchaskale,spinachandpurplesproutingbroccolionofferintheearlymonths.KalecontainsvitaminsA,CandE,mineralsincludingmanganese,iron,calciumandpotassiumandphytochemicals(chemicalsthatnaturallyoccurinplants)linkedtocancerprevention.Fruitsuchasapplesandpearsarealsoavailable.Applescontainusefulamountsoffibre,vitaminCandpotassiumandguercetin,aflavonoid(anothertypeofnaturallyoccurringplantchemical)thatmayhelpprotectagainstheartdisease.Anddon’tforgetthecustomary
herbaltea.Manyteasrecommendedfortheirantioxidantpropertiesare
availablefromFairtradebrands,soyoucanguaranteetheproducerafairdealatthesametimeastreatingyourselftoarefreshingdrink.Anewyear’sresolutiontoeatlocalfreshfruitandveg,aspartofalong-termplan
ofdietandexercise,andtobuyFairtradeproductsfromfurtherafield,willhavelonglastingbenefitsregardlessofthechoiceswemadeatlastyearʼsstaffChristmasparty.Itcouldalsopotentiallysave
wastinganythingfromtenstohundredsofpounds,ondetoxsystemswhichpromisecleansingandtoxinflushing.AsDrBenGoldacre,full-timedoctorandauthorofBadScience,warns:“Anyonewhotalksconfidentlyandauthoritativelyaboutdetoxismisleadingyou,andyoushouldbeverycautiousaboutalltheotherthingstheysaytoo,asitʼsquitelikelytheyarebasedinfantasy,ratherthanevidence.”Hemaintainsthatdetoxsystems
arenothingbutamarketinginvention:“Thewholenotionofdetoxisfoolish,”hesays.“Itʼsamarketingtermratherthanamedicalone,anditdistractspeoplefromtherealthingstheycandotoimprovetheirhealth.”Eatingmorefruitandveg,
gettingsomeexercise,drinkingless,andlosingweightarethingsthatimproveyourlong-termhealthoveralifetime.Doingthemforthreemagicaldays,orsixdays,ortwoweeks,isworsethanuseless,becauseyouarefalselyreassuredthatyouʼredoingsomethinguseful.”
Photos: Elizabeth Waight
Food Safari gives you behind-the-scenes access to some of Suffolk’s best loved food and drink producers. We specialise in Field to Fork days: farm walks, fishing trips, and wild food forays; cookery and butchery workshops; and fabulous feasts.
Gourmet experiences from field to fork
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01728 621380
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100 stockists across LondonForamediapackcontactJamieFordjamieford@mac.comorphone07900496979
April 2011
next issue
Jellied EelOUR BREADKNEADS
YOUWant to be a part of the rise of the national
movement that is fighting for better bread in Britain?
www.realbreadcampaign.org
how ethical is your detox?
The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 19
capital growth
Give bees a chanceMichaelDeesexplainsthathelpingourtroubledbeepopulationisnʼtjusttheresponsibilityofthoselivinginthecountryside.
JAnuAry❋ Orderyourseedfortheseasonahead.Jotdownaroughplantingplan,thenorderonlineinonebatchtosaveonpackaginganddeliverycosts.❋ Tryforcingrhubarb.Chooseanestablishedplant,clearweeds,thencoverwithacontainer.Harvestinfiveweeks,tuggingoffthestems.
FeBruAry❋ Takethislast,preciousopportunitybeforetheseasonkicksofftofinishoverdueprojects.Orderinseedpotatoes,especially‘firstearlies’.Thesecanbechittedandplantedoutaroundmid-March,weatherpermitting.
MArCH❋ Startoffchillies,astheyrequirealonggrowingseason.Theseedneedsextraheattogerminate–around21°C,souseaheatedpropagatororsnugspotsuchasanairingcupboard,thengrowtheminyoursunniestspot.❋ Foranearlycropofstrawberries,coveryourplantstowardstheendofthemonth.withfleece,bellorrecycledbottlecloches.Whentheplantsareflowering,removetheclochesduringthedaytopromotepollination.
TomMoggachofCityLeaf*
GROWING CALENDAR
(London’s)
A sthewinterfrostcastsasilverblanketoverLondonʼsurbanapiaries,thebeesarehuddledtogetherinclustersthatkeepthemwarmataconstant35ºC.Thequeensareprobably
alreadylayingtheeggsthatwillmorethandoublethesizeoftheircoloniesbyspring,readyfortheseasonofforagingwhichpollinatesoneinthreemouthfulsofthefoodweeat.Ourbeesareunderalotofpressurewiththeglobal
populationindramaticdeclineand,asAlbertEinsteinisbelievedtohavesaid,ifthebeedisappearedthenmanwouldonlyhavefouryearsoflifeleft.Nomorebees,nomorepollination,nomoreplants,nomoreanimals,noman.Helpisathand.CapitalBee,partoftheCapitalGrowth
campaigntocreate2,012newgrowingspaces,aimstopromotecommunitybee-keepinginLondonandcampaignsforabee-friendlycity.InDecemberlastyear,abeesummitattheSouthbankCentrebroughttogetherbeekeepers,organisationsandprojectstodebatewhatishappeningtothehoneybeeandwhatLondonerscandoaboutit.“Thereʼslotsofthingspeoplecandotohelpbees
andotherpollinatorsinLondon,”saysPamelaBrunton,CapitalBeecampaignofficeratSustain.“Wecanmakesurewegivethemallthefoodtheyneedandsomewheresafetolive,byplantingwildflowers,floweringherbsandfruittrees,eveninpotsonthewindowsill;andbyavoidingusingtoomuchconcreteandchemicalsinyourgarden.Buyingbee-friendlyfood,likeorganic,ormakingabeehoteloutofoldlogs,canhelpwildbeestoo.”Gardeningorganicallyisalsoimportant,aschemicalscan
sometimeshaveanadverseeffectonbeesandotherwildlife.Urbanenvironments,likeLondon,areparticularly
goodforbeesbecauseofthevarietyofforageavailabletothemyear-roundinparksandgardens,andlotsofpeoplearebecominginterestedincitybeekeeping.Ifyoureckonkeepingbeesisforyou,startbycontactingyourlocalassociationandgoingalongtooneoftheirbeginnersʼcoursesbeforeyouinvestinyourhivesandequipment.
*CityLeafprovidesfood-growingtrainingtogroupsandschools.Formoreinformation,call02074859262orseewww.cityleaf.co.uk
CApITAL Bee COMpeTITIOnAspartoftheCapitalBeecampaign,acompetitiontowin50hivesandtrainingisbeingrun.Thecompetitionopenedon16December2010andfinaldateforcompletedapplicationsis5pmonFriday28January2011.Thewinnerswillreceiveabeehive,protectiveclothing,basictools,training,mentoringandsupporttoenabletheircommunitytosetupbeekeepingbyspring2012.www.capitalgrowth.org/bee_competition
0845 519 2415www.farm-direct.com
Order fresh, seasonal produce direct from local farmers and growers.
Collect your order from our Islington depot at 11 Ronalds Road N5 1XL or have it delivered to your door.
Wonderful mix of organic and free range produce. A range of meat, fish, dairy and veggies that you just don’t get through most high street shops.
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20 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 21
hearomaoffreshlybakedcookiesinJemima’skitchenisagiveaway.“Thislookslikeasetup,”shesaysalmostapologetically.“It’snotlikethiseverySaturday,butIreallydolovebaking.”Onthebench,plumphazelnutandginger
cookiesvieforspacewithtraysofcrunchygranolaflavouredwithmolassesandcinnamon.Lateron,sherevealscupboardsfilledwithjarsofhomemadepearandchilli,andbeetrootandhorseradishchutneys.Jemimasaysshebuysvirtuallyeverythingorganic,and
likesmakingmostmealsfromscratch.Butsurelymostpeopledon’thavethetimeand/orfundstodothis?Sheisbemusedbythequestion:“Yesitcantaketime.ButIchoosetospendtimeonthatratherthansomethingelse–inshort,whatelsewouldIratherbedoing?Iworkfromhome;Ilovecookingandapproachitasapleasuremorethanachore.”Onthesubjectofcost,sheisresoluteaboutlookingatthe
biggerpicture:“Organicfoodmoreexpensive?Therealityismorecomplicated:oftennon-organicissubsidised–taxpayersfundingagrochemical-dependentagriculture,forexample.”It’shelpfulthatJemimalivesastone’sthrowfromStoke
NewingtonFarmers’Market,promotedasUK’sonlyall-organicfarmers’market.Thisalsomeansusuallynothavingtochoosebetween‘organic’and‘local’.TherestofhergroceriesarefromnearbyMotherEarth,awholefoodshopinAlbionRoad.Shealsousesitsfruitbagandvegboxscheme.Jemima’ssustainablefoodknowledge,andfervour,
haveundoubtedlybeenshapedbyherstintatseaasanassistantchefforGreenpeace,experienceworkingforfoodco-opsandanidyllic-soundingchildhoodinruralWales,withaveggiepatch,fruit-ladenhedgerows,andajerseycowcalledBronwen.Whenshe’snotbakingtreats,everydaymealsareanother
chancetoexperimentwithingredients.“I’mthesortofpersonwhocouldwakeupinthemiddleofthenightwith
ideasforwhattodowithbeetroot.”ʻBarlotto’–abarley-basedversionofrisotto–withbeetrootandgoat’scheese,androastedbeetrootborscht,aretworecentcreations.AtthemomentJemimaiscookingjustforherself,
asherpartnerisawayatsea.“Ifanything,I’mguiltyofover-cateringsometimes,I’musedtocookingforlotsofpeople.ButitmeansIalwayshavesomethinghomemadetosharewhenIseefriends,orIfreezethesurplus.”ItseemsJemimahasleftvirtuallynostoneunturned
whenitcomestosustainableeating,whileenjoyinganinterestingrangeoffoodthatcontinuestoinspireher.Butshepointsout:“Animportantthingmissingformeislandtogrowfood,there’snooutdoorspacehereattheflat.I’mplanningtoreturntoWalesandputdownmyrootsthere,I’dreallylikesomeland.”Fromthesea,tothebigsmokeandthentothe
countryside,thenextchapterinJemima’sfoodadventuresiscertaintobewellcatered-for.
JemimagetsafreegoodybagfromthesplendidladiesatHappyKitchenasathankyouforlettingusthroughherdoor.
Ifyouwouldlikeustoconsiderputtingyourkitchenunderourmicroscope,pleasecontactben@sustainweb.org
Reader’s kitchen
ClareHillenjoysascentedspinaroundthekitchenofkeenbakerandorganicenthusiastJemimaRoberts
Scorecard
High scoresforbuyingnearly
everythingfromfarmers’markets
andindependentshops,andfor
buyingorganic.
Slight deductionsforsometimes
over-catering.
“I couldn’t live without...anoccasional
Alphonsomango.”Renownedfortheir
superiorflavourandfragrance,they
areripenedonthetreeinIndiaand
haveashortshelflife,soare
likelytobeair-freighted.
baking
London food linkA sanoverseastraveljournalistandreviewerformanyyears,JulieBundyalwaysenjoyedvisiting
farmers’marketsandfoodfairs.BackinLondon,shewasequallytakenbythecapital’spopuprestaurantsandmarkets,whichfurtherinspiredhertodevelopherloveofgoodfoodintoabusiness.TheresultishercompanyWestminsterArtisans,whichrunstwomarkets:MaidaHillinW9andTachbrookStreetinPimlicoSW1.MaidaHill,runningsincelate2009,isa
regularstreetmarketwithlocalandregionaltraders,andanoccasionalfarmers’marketonaSaturday.Juliewasinstrumentalindevelopingthemarketandthepopularpop-upcoffeeshop,MaidaHillCaféGallery,bothofwhichhavehelpedincreasevisitorstothearea.TachbrookStreet(pictured,withJuliethird
fromleft)wasrelaunchedinOctober2010,andismanagedbyWestminsterArtisansonbehalfofWestminsterCouncil.Themarketisamixofestablishedtradersandmodernnewfoodstallsthathavebeenahitwithlocalresidentsandbusinesses.Julie’smarketfoodepiphaniesincludeMasihMasala’stakeawayIndianfood(anotherLondonFoodLinkmember)andLondontraiteur(cateringbusiness)MadameGautier’s‘LaBoucherie’.
Featured London Food Link memberWestminster Artisans
Love the Jellied eel?JoinLondonFoodLinkandhaveacopydeliveredtoyourdooreveryquarter.LondonFoodLinkisanetworkoforganisationsandindividuals:farmersandfoodwriters,caterersandcommunityfoodprojects,restaurantsandreviewers.WeworkonincreasingtheavailabilityofsustainablefoodinLondonthroughtraining,adviceandcampaigning.TheJellied EelisafreemagazinewepublishtoraiseawarenessofethicalfoodissuesinLondonandLondon’sgrowinglocalandsustainablefoodmovement.Weareacharity.
Member benefits❋ getourmagazinetheJellied EelwithLondonnewsandarticlesdeliveredtoyourdoor❋ makeusefulLondonfoodcontacts❋ findoutwhat’sgoingonaroundLondonwithourregularemailupdatesincludinglocalfoodnewsandfundinginfo❋ invitesanddiscountedentrytoourregularLondonFoodLinksoiréesandaffiliatedtraining/events–greatfornetworkingandaccessingexpertise
How to joinOnline:Gotowww.sustainweb.org/londonfoodlink/membership,completetheformandsendittogeorgie@sustainweb.org,thenclickthe‘makeapayment’link.Post:Completethisformandsenditwithachequemadepayableto‘Sustain’,to94WhiteLionStreet,LondonN19PF.
Membership form London Food Link
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£20–individualornot-for-profitcommunityproject £40–charity,socialenterpriseorcompanywithlessthan£100,000annualturnover £70–publicbody,orcompanywith£100,000–£1,000,000annualturnover £100–companywithmorethan£1,000,000annualturnover
RateIfthefeeisnot,forwhateverreason,afairreflectionofyourabilitytopaymembership,thenpleasegetintouch.Ifyouareacommunityproject,foodbusinessorlocalauthority,contactgeorgie@sustainweb.orgformoreinformationonhowyoucanbeinvolvedwithLondonFoodLink.
London Food LinkJoin us!
❋ DidyouknowthatasatraderwithWestminsterArtisansyou’renotpermittedtoswear?
H ousedinaformerdairy,Unpackagedretainsanauthentic,
traditionalandlocalcharm,despitehavingopenedonlythreeyearsago.Overthattime,ownerCatherine
Conwayhastransformeditintoaveryforward-thinkingandunusualcornershop.Thecluetoitssingularityisinthe
name–everythingissoldwithoutwrapping,bulkyfoamtraysorunnecessarystuff:justpure,organicandFairtradeproduce.Customersareencouragedtobring
alongtheirowncontainerstofillwithavarietyofwholefoods,freshproduce,chutneysandpreserves,environmentally-friendlyhouseholdcleaningproducts,herbs,spices,andevenwine!TheUnpackagedmodeltacklesseveralsustainabilityissuesheadon–reducingCO2emissionsbyusinglesspackaging,reducingfood
wastage(becauseyoucanchoosehowmuchyouwant),andreducingthematerialbeingsenttolandfill.Youcan,ofcourse,stockupontheJellied Eelheretoo–nopackaging,justgoodstuffinside!http://beunpackaged.com
TheJellied EelwouldliketothankUnpackagedanditsstafffortheircontinuedsupport.
Areyouashop,restaurant,café,traderorcommunitycentrewithsustainablefoodatitsheartthatwantstohelpusspreadthewordaroundLondon?Getintouchwiththejelliedeel@sustainweb.orgaboutstockingtheJellied Eel.
what’s onCapital Growth A.B.Seed education competition 17 JanuaryLondon-wideChallengeseducationalinstitutions–frompre-schooltocollegesanduniversities–togetgrowingtobeinwithachanceofwinningsomefantasticprizes.www.capitalgrowth.org/schools/abseed
Capital Growth funding round17 JanuaryLondon-wideLaunchoffundingroundfornewgrowingspaces.Deadlineforapplications:14February.www.capitalgrowth.org
Get your hands dirty – grow food26 January11–2pmSpitalfields City FarmFood-growingcourseheldmostweekswww.spitalfieldscityfarm.org/what-s-on
Grow, pick, cook & eat garden course 29 January 2–3pm every SaturdayKingʼs CrossLearnbasicgardeningskillsattheCalthorpeProject.Coursesforparentsandchildren.www.calthorpeproject.org.ukCity Shoots : sprouting sustainable action in schools 8 FebruaryCity HallAneventpromotingsustainablefoodinprimaryschools,providinganopportunityforteachers,headteachers,parenthelpersandcommunityorganisationstolearnmoreaboutfoodgrowing.Registrationessential.http://cityshoots.wordpress.com
Seeds glorious seeds Family fun food-growing activitiesFebruary 23, 25 & 27 half-term CarshaltonPlantingpotatoesandseeds,allageswelcome.Advancebookingneeded.www.ecolocal.org.uk
London Food Link network do23 February 4.30–7.30pmFARM:shop, DalstonGatheringoffolksinterestedingoodfood.Hearfromsomeofthemostexcitingethicalfoodenterprisesandinitiativesinthecapital.£15(£10forLFLmembers).georgie@sustainweb.orgwww.londonfoodlink.org
Fairtrade Fortnight28 February–13 MarchThethemeforthisyearis‘showoffyourlabel’,sotelltheworldaboutyourcakemadeextraspecialbyusingFairtradesugarandspice,yourmosttemptingbottleofwine,yourcomfiestpants!www.fairtradelondon.org.uk
youth enterprise event March, date and location TBCwww.capitalgrowth.org
real Food Festival Markets4–6 FebruarySouthbank, 25–27 MarchBrent Cross Moredetailsatwww.realfoodfestival.com
star jellied eel stockist
22 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org
unpackaged
PRODUCE MARKETT H E B E S T L O C A L , S E A S O N A L A N D S U S T A I N A B L Y P R O D U C E D F O O DSourced Market brings the best from local and artisan producers to the heart of St Pancras International. Open seven days a week, bursting at the seams with a fantastic range of carefully sourced produce.
w w w . S O U R C E D M A R K E T . C O M
is not about making big profits for shareholders but creating value for its members.
is not about making big profits for shareholders but creating value for its members.
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