How do cultural practices impact wine aroma and flavor?

How do cultural practices

impact wine aroma and flavor?

How do cultural practices

impact wine aroma and flavor?

Nick DokoozlianE&J Gallo Winery

How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard? How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard?

Outline

•Measuring quality and flavor development•Practices influencing flavor development

•Harvest date•Crop load •Late season water status•Trellis •Clonal selection

•Summary

Outline

•Measuring quality and flavor development•Practices influencing flavor development

•Harvest date•Crop load •Late season water status•Trellis •Clonal selection

•Summary

Measuring grape quality Measuring grape quality

Color Mouthfeel Aroma Taste

Flavor = aroma x taste

HarvestDate

Average Brix at harvest(all red varieties in California)

Year1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010

Mean soluble solids of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes

at harvest in California

Cabernet Sauvignon

Soluble solids (oBrix)

VegetativeCharacteristics

FruitCharacteristics

Berry maturity metricsBerry maturity metrics

Berry Sensory

Berry sensory trends •Trained tasters can consistently distinguish several different flavor or aroma buckets during ripening

•Significant sensory trendsare apparent during the later stages of ripening (>20 oBrix)

Berry sensory trends •Trained tasters can consistently distinguish several different flavor or aroma buckets during ripening

•Significant sensory trendsare apparent during the later stages of ripening (>20 oBrix)

Sensory “flavor buckets” in grape berries near harvest

Category Sensory buckets

Responsible compounds

Negative

Positive

Veggie

Green fruit Fresh fruit Cooked or jammy fruit

Methoxypyrazine C6 compounds

Glycosylated bound precursors, acid esters and thiols

Ex: norisoprenoids

Cabernet Sauvignon

Sugar-based harvest

Cabernet Sauvignon

Sugar-based harvest

Sensory-basedharvest

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

Vegetativearoma in wine

Jammy fruitin grapes

Vegetativearoma in grapes

Jammy fruitin wine

Berry to Wine Sensory Berry to Wine Sensory

Linking berry and wine sensory Berry sensory is subjective and not high- throughput

Can we use chemistry to describe our major aromas buckets?

•Vegetable •Green fruit•Fresh fruit•Jammy fruit

Are chemical finger prints for each bucket possible ?

Berry sensory is subjective and not high- throughput

Can we use chemistry to describe our major aromas buckets?

•Vegetable •Green fruit•Fresh fruit•Jammy fruit

Are chemical finger prints for each bucket possible ?

Grape aromas & aroma precursorsGrape aromas & aroma precursors

Methoxypyrazine • Veggie aroma

Free volatile aromas• Alcohols, aldehydes, terpenoids, norisoprenoids

Glucose glycosides • Flavor precursors bound to sugars

Fatty acid esters• Acid esters (fresh fruity notes in all cultivars)

Thiols

• Sulfur based precursors in grapes ( ex. cysteine) - tropical notes in Sauvignon blanc, other cultivars

Sensory “flavor buckets” in grape berries near harvest

Category Sensory buckets

Responsible compounds

Negative

Positive

Veggie

Green fruit Fresh fruit Cooked or jammy fruit

Methoxypyrazine C6 compounds

Glycosylated bound precursors, acid esters and thiols

Ex: norisoprenoids

Jammy fruit aromasJammy fruit aromas

CompoundCompound AromaAroma

Benzyl alcohol (ppb)

Phenethyl alcohol (ppb)

Geraniol (ppb)

B-ionone (ppb)

Terpinene (ppb)

Linalool (ppb)

Eucalyptol (ppb)

B-damasecenone (ppb)

Benzyl alcohol (ppb)

Phenethyl alcohol (ppb)

Geraniol (ppb)

B-ionone (ppb)

Terpinene (ppb)

Linalool (ppb)

Eucalyptol (ppb)

B-damasecenone (ppb)

Red berry

Citric

Citrus

Flowery, lavender

Eucalyptus

Rose wood

Red berry

Citric

Citrus

Flowery, lavender

Eucalyptus

Rose wood

The Odor Activity Value (OAV)

Concentration of target

compound in grape

Known sensory detection

threshold in water

Example:

= 40 100 ppt

4000 ppt

Cabernet Sauvignon S - D03

18 20 22 24 26

Veggie

Chemistry

Sensory

Cabernet Sauvignon Veggie

Chemistry

18 20 22 24 26

3Green fruit

Chemistry

Sensory

Cabernet Sauvignon Green fruit

Cabernet Sauvignon Jammy fruit

18 20 22 24 26

Jammy fruit

Chemistry

Sensory

How do we synchronize berry sugar and flavor accumulation ?

Managing wine flavor & alcohol in the vineyard

Cabernet Sauvignon

Changes in berry sensory over time

2004Cabernet Sauvignon

Rapid sugar accumulation due to low crop loadDelayed flavor development due to environment, ripening rate

Cabernet Sauvignon

Changes in berry sensory over time

2005Slow sugar accumulation due to large crop load

Crop Load or

Vine Balance

Canopy size Fruit yield

Crop Load Yield to pruning weight ratio

integrates vine capacity and yield

Accounts for differences in vineyard design, plant density, vine vigor and site capacity

Vine yieldVine yield

Pruning weightPruning weight Expected ripening rate Expected ripening rate

< 4< 4

5 – 85 – 8

> 10> 10

Too little crop = rapid Too little crop = rapid

Balanced = optimumBalanced = optimum

Too much crop = slowToo much crop = slow

Vine balance and ripening rateVine balance and ripening rate

1 8 15 22 29 6 13 20 27 3 10

September October November

Under-cropped vinesYield = 4 tons per hectare

Yield pruning weight ratio = 3

Balance - cropped vinesYield = 15 tons per hectare

Over - cropped vinesYield = 30 tons per hectare

Cabernet Sauvignon

1 8 15 22 29 6 13 20 27 3 10

September October November

Under-cropped vinesYield = 4 tons per hectare

Balance - cropped vinesYield = 15 tons per hectare

Over - cropped vinesYield = 30 tons per hectare

Cabernet Sauvignon

Soluble solids (Brix)

20 22 24 26 28

Balanced Cropped = 8:1

UnderCropped = 3:1

Over Cropped = 14:1

Soluble solids (Brix)

20 22 24 26 28

TTThreshold

Balanced-cropped8:1

Over-cropped14:1

Under-cropped3:1

Yield:Pruning Weight Ratio

2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Undercropped

Overcropped

Berry ripening (time)Veraison Harvest

High LA:FW(Under cropped)

Low LA:FA(Over cropped)

How important is

How does ripening rate affect berry aroma at maturity ?

•Fruit aroma accumulation? •Green aroma degradation?

Flavor accumulationRate?

Late Season Water Stress

Merlot 5B - Ripperdan

8/22 8/29 9/5 9/12 9/19 9/26 10/3 10/10 10/17 10/24 10/31

ControlRamp-up

Ramp-up

Begin ramp-up Control

Ramp-up irrigation = 100% ETcControl irrigation = 70% ETc

Begin treatmentat 21 Brix

Vine response to irrigation levels during the final stages of ripening

Cabernet Sauvignon - Lodi

Treatment

Soluble solids at harvest (Brix)

Berry Color

(mg/g)

IBMP (ppt)

Bound aroma

precursors(ppt)

Standard 26.7a 1.2 a 2.1 a 50,560 b

Ramp-up 24.5 b 1.1 a 1.4 a 59,860 a

From: Prichard et al 2005

Trellis Design

and Canopy

Efficiency

45% Exposed LA

35% Exposed LA

75% Exposed LA

65% Exposed LA

Leaf Area / Crop Weight Ratio (m2/kg)

0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9

VerticalGDCLyre

CHENIN BLANC TRELLIS TRIAL, DAVIS, CA

From Kliewer and Dokoozlian - 2000

IndicesIndices MeasureMeasure

Production efficiencyProduction efficiency

Canopy efficiencyCanopy efficiency

Fruit microclimate Fruit microclimate

Fruit yieldFruit yield

Pruning weightPruning weight

Exposed leaf areaExposed leaf area

Total leaf areaTotal leaf area

Exposed clustersExposed clusters

Total clustersTotal clusters

Back to basics - performance metrics

Clonal Selection

Merlot Clones – 2009 Vintage

All clones adjusted to similar crop loads (~7:1)

following berry set

Summary Summary

• Maturity measures are changing from sugar-based metrics to flavor-based metrics Berry sensory and analytical tools can monitor

berry flavor profiles

• Vine balance (ratio of yield to pruning weight) is critical to fruit ripening rate and flavor development Synchronizing sugar and flavor accumulation

• Greater focus on the impact of other vineyard practices on flavor development is needed

• Maturity measures are changing from sugar-based metrics to flavor-based metrics Berry sensory and analytical tools can monitor

berry flavor profiles

• Vine balance (ratio of yield to pruning weight) is critical to fruit ripening rate and flavor development Synchronizing sugar and flavor accumulation

• Greater focus on the impact of other vineyard practices on flavor development is needed

Acknowledgements Acknowledgements

• David Vasquez, Luis Sanchez, Marin Mendez, Jim O’Donnell and Nona Ebisuda

• Mike Cleary, Beth Wilson and Lee Raley

• Laure David, Jim Kolsky and Lyndsay Noble

• Cyd Yonker and Tom Pugh

• Alan Reynolds and Jim Collins

• David Vasquez, Luis Sanchez, Marin Mendez, Jim O’Donnell and Nona Ebisuda

• Mike Cleary, Beth Wilson and Lee Raley

• Laure David, Jim Kolsky and Lyndsay Noble

• Cyd Yonker and Tom Pugh

• Alan Reynolds and Jim Collins

How do cultural practices impact wine aroma and flavor?

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