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Garment Production Knowledge
FP05-S Foundation Programme
1. Understand
Basic Textile Knowledge
2. Understand some
common Garment Terms
Objectives:
Basic Textile Knowledge
Basic Textile Knowledge
Content :
• Definition of textile fibre• Classification of textile fibres• Terminology of textile fibres• Natural fibres• Man made fibres• General properties of textile fibres
Basic Textile Knowledge
From Fibre to Consumer Product
Fibre Yarn Fabric
FinishingManufactureEnd Product
Basic Textile Knowledge
Definition of Fibre
Fibre is a slender filament or fine strand of sufficient length, pliability, and strength to be spun into yarns and woven or knitted into cloth.
Basic Textile Knowledge
Classification of Textile Fibre 纖維分類纖維分類纖維分類纖維分類Natural Fibre
天然纖維
Man-made Fibre人造纖維
Vegetable植物纖維
Cotton 棉
Linen 麻
Mineral礦物纖維
Asbestos石棉
Animal動物纖維
Silk絲
Wool羊毛
Hair 毛髮
Regenerated再造纖維
Viscose rayon黏膠人造絲
Acetate醋酯纖維
Other其他
Glass玻璃纖維
Metallic金屬纖維
Carbon碳纖維
Synthetic合成纖維
Nylon尼龍
Polyester聚酯纖維
Acrylic腈綸
Basic Textile Knowledge
Fibre classification
Natural Fibres 天然纖維天然纖維天然纖維天然纖維
Natural fibres are fibres that are naturally producedin staple or filament form and can be directly made into yarn.
They can be further divided, according to their origins into different categories.
Basic Textile Knowledge
Fibre classification
1. Natural vegetable fibre 天然植物纖維天然植物纖維天然植物纖維天然植物纖維
2. Natural animal fibre 天然動物纖維天然動物纖維天然動物纖維天然動物纖維
3. Natural mineral fibre 天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維
Fibre Classification
1. Natural Vegetable Fibre
Natural vegetable fibres are obtained from plants, examples include cotton 棉 and linen麻 .
Fibre Classification
Cotton Fibre
• Cotton is a seed fibre,種籽纖維 attached to the seed of the cotton plant.
• Fibre length is normally between ½ to 2 ½ inches.
• It is the most widely used fibre in the world.
• The leading producers of cotton include United States, China, India, and Egypt.
Fibre Classification
Vegetable Fibre - Cotton 棉
Fibre Classification
Flax Fibre• Flax comes from the stem of the flax plant.
• When the fibre is processed into fabric, it is called linen.
• Fibre length between 2 to 36 inches.
• Producers including Russia, Germany, France, Poland & China.
Fibre Classification
Vegetable Fibre -Flax / Linen 亞麻亞麻亞麻亞麻
Fibre Classification
2. Natural Animal Fibre
Natural animal fibres are sub-divided into threesub-classes : wool, hair and silk .
Wool , the hair from sheep 綿羊綿羊綿羊綿羊 , is treated as onesub-class because of its importance as a textile fibre.
Merino sheep produce the best wool, fibre lengthbetween 1 to 5 inches. Other classes of wool fibre, fibre length ranging from 2 to 10 inches or longer.
Fibre Classification
2. Natural Animal Fibre
Hair is the sub-class for all fibres that are obtained from any kind of mammal except sheep,綿羊綿羊綿羊綿羊examples:
Cashmere 茄士咩 / 羊絨,
Mohair 安哥拉山羊毛 / 馬海毛,
Rabbit hair 安哥拉兔毛,
Camel hair 駱駝毛
Fibre Classification
Wool 羊毛羊毛羊毛羊毛
Wool Fibre Surface
Raising Merino in Australia
My name is Merino
Fibre ClassificationWool 羊毛羊毛羊毛羊毛
Sheep Raising Sheep Shearing
Wool Handling Wool Bales ready for Shipment
Fibre Classification
Natural Animal Fibre – Animal Hair
Camel hair 駱駱駱駱 駝駝駝駝 毛毛毛毛
Fibre Classification
Natural Animal Fibre – Animal HairCashmere茄茄茄茄 士士士士 咩咩咩咩 / 羊羊羊羊 絨絨絨絨
Fibre Classification
Natural Animal Fibre – Animal HairAngora Goat / Mohair 安安安安 哥哥哥哥 拉拉拉拉 山山山山 羊羊羊羊 毛毛毛毛 / 馬馬馬馬 海海海海 毛毛毛毛
Fibre Classification
Natural Animal Fibre – Animal Hair
Angora Rabbit hair安安安安 哥哥哥哥 拉拉拉拉 兔兔兔兔 毛毛毛毛
Fibre Classification
Natural Animal FibreSilk 真絲真絲真絲真絲
• Silk is made by the silkworm as it builds itscocoon .
• The silk substance is extruded from its body inone continuous strand from beginning to end.
• It is possible to unwind the cocoons and obtain long silk filaments .
Fibre Classification
Silk 真絲真絲真絲真絲
Silk Moths
Silkworm Extrude Filament
Silkworm
Silkwormform Cocoon
Fibre Classification
Silk 真絲真絲真絲真絲
Silk Cocoon Silk Filament Surface
Fibre Classification
Silk 真絲真絲真絲真絲Cocoon Boiling Extract Filament from Cocoon
Silk Filament Silk fabric weaving
Fibre Classification
Exercise
Describe general properties of cotton and wool fibre.
Describe the difference between silk fibre and wool fibre.
Fibre Classification
3. Natural Mineral Fibre 天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維
There is only one kind of natural mineral fibre,asbestos 石綿石綿石綿石綿.This was once a very important and widely used fibre in industry, but is now banned inmany countr ies due to health hazards associated with it.
Fibre Classification
Exercise
Describe general properties of cotton and wool fibre.
Describe the difference between silk fibre and wool fibre.
Fibre Classification
Fibre classification
Man-made Fibre 人人人人 造造造造 纖纖纖纖 維維維維
Man-made fibres are fibres that are made byindustrial processes, starting with materialswhich are completely different physically and chemically from the fibres made, they can be further divided into different categories.
Fibre Classification
Man-made Fibre 人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維
a) Regenerated man-made fibres ; 再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維
b) Synthetic man-made fibre; and 合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維
c) Other man-made fibres. 其他人造纖維其他人造纖維其他人造纖維其他人造纖維
Fibre Classification
Man-made Fibre 人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維
Regenerated man-made fibres 再再再再 造造造造 纖纖纖纖 維維維維
Regenerated man-made fibres are made from natural polymers, such as cellulose and protein.
Fibre Classification
Regenerated man-made fibres 再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維
Viscose rayon 人造絲人造絲人造絲人造絲 //// 人綿人綿人綿人綿
Viscose rayon is made from timber. The impuritiesin the timber are removed, leaving cellulose, whichis in solid form. In order to make fibre, a cellulosesolution must be made to form polymers. It usuallyhas a high luster quality giving it a bright shine.
Fibre Classification
Regenerated man-made fibres 再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維
Acetate 醋醋醋醋 酯酯酯酯 纖纖纖纖 維維維維
Acetate is a manufactured fibre in which the fibre forming substance is cellulose acetate.It has a round shape with striations on the surface.The starting material for the manufacture of acetate fibre is cellulose, which can be obtained from cotton, or wood pulp.
Fibre Classification
Regenerated man-made fibres 再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維
Ingeo 玉玉玉玉 米米米米 纖纖纖纖 維維維維
Ingeo is a polylactide fibre made from plants instead from oil.
It can be made into different form according to needsand blend with other fibres such as cotton or wool fortextile use. It is more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.
Fibre Classification
Man-made Fibre 人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維
Synthetic man-made fibres 合合合合 成成成成 纖纖纖纖 維維維維
Synthetic man-made fibres are also produced frompolymers, but from man-made, not naturally occurringones. Synthetic man-made fibres can be further divided intosub--classes , three of which are very important, namely, in the order of world Production -- polyester, nylon (or polyamide) and acrylic .
Fibre Classification
Synthetic man-made fibres 合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維
Nylon 錦綸錦綸錦綸錦綸
Nylon, also called polyamide, is defined as a manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polyamide. This was first produced in 1935 byDuPont. The filament fibres are round, smooth and shiny.It’s most widely used structures are monofilament, staple or tow and is available as partially drawn or as finished filaments.
Fibre Classification
Synthetic man-made fibres 合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維
Polyester 滌滌滌滌 綸綸綸綸
The raw materials for the manufacture of polyester are ethylene and phenol, which are both obtained from petroleum. Polyester can be produced in different form and have good change of shape after application of heat (thermosetting). Thermo-pleating and wrinkle free application are commonlyused on polyester fabric.
Fibre Classification
Synthetic man-made fibres 合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維
Acrylic 腈腈腈腈綸綸綸綸
Acrylic is a long-chain polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units. Acrylic are produced almost exclusively as staple fibres. The DuPont created the first acrylic fibre in 1941 and named as “Orlon”. They are lightweight, soft, warm and have a wool-like handle, low density, and good resistance to light and chemicals.
Fibre Classification
Synthetic man-made fibres 合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維
Spandex 氨氨氨氨綸綸綸綸
Spandex or elastane is a polyurethane fibre that can give good elasticity. It was invented in 1959 by DuPont and their trademark is “Lycra”. It is stronger and more durable than rubber. It can achieve tight-fitting effect and give comfort to movements.
Fibre Classification
Man-made Fibre 人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維
Other man-made fibres 其他其他其他其他 纖纖纖纖 維維維維
The third class of man-made fibre is comprised of those fibres which do not belong to either of the above-mentioned classes. Included in this class are metallic fibre 金金金金 屬屬屬屬 纖纖纖纖 維維維維, glass fibre 玻玻玻玻 璃璃璃璃 纖纖纖纖 維維維維 and carbon fibre 碳碳碳碳 纖纖纖纖 維維維維, which have an extensive range of primarily industrial uses.
Fibre Classification
Discussion/Exercise
Name and discuss two regenerated man-made fibres.
Name two natural fibres and give their special features.
General Properties of Textile Fibre
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre
1) Length 長度長度長度長度
Fibre must have a certain length to enable it to be spun into yarn. Fibres are grouped into two categories, according to their length.a) Staple fibres and 短 纖 維
b) Filamentary fibres 長 絲
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre
2) Diameter or Fineness 直徑直徑直徑直徑 //// 幼度幼度幼度幼度The diameter refers to the thickness of the fibre. In natural fibres, diameter usually varies from one part of the fibre to another and cause irregularities in fibre size.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre2) Diameter or Fineness 直徑直徑直徑直徑 //// 幼度幼度幼度幼度
Shape of different fibre diameter
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre
3) Strength / Tenacity 韌韌韌韌 度度度度
Strength is a fibre’s ability to withstand stress. Fibre strength, the force needed to break the fibre, is known as tenacity and expressed in grams per denier or grams per fibre weight.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre4) Elasticity 彈彈彈彈 力力力力
Elasticity is the ability of a fibre to recover from deformations, including bending, extension and creasing.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre
5) Luster 光光光光 澤澤澤澤
Luster refers to the light reflected from a surface.Various characteristics of a fibre affect the amount of luster. Increased light reflection occurs from a smoother surface, less crimp, flatter cross-sectional shape, and longer fibre length.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre6) Pilling 毛毛毛毛 粒粒粒粒
Pilling is the formation of groups of short or broken fibres on the surface of a fabric that are tangled together in the shape of a tiny ball called a pill.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre
7) Abrasion Resistance 抵抗磨擦抵抗磨擦抵抗磨擦抵抗磨擦Abrasion resistance is the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributesto fabric durability.
8) Absorbency / Moisture regain 吸濕力吸濕力吸濕力吸濕力Absorbency is the ability to take in moisture.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre
9) Resistance to Detergents, Chemical and Solvent 抵抗清潔劑抵抗清潔劑抵抗清潔劑抵抗清潔劑、、、、化學物及乾洗劑化學物及乾洗劑化學物及乾洗劑化學物及乾洗劑It is desirable for fibre to be resistant to detergents, since most textile end-products need to be cleaned by being washed in water or dry clean with detergent.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre10) Thermal Stability 熱熱熱熱 穩穩穩穩 定定定定 性性性性
Thermal stability is the ability to withstand high temperature.
11) Flammability 可可可可 燃燃燃燃 性性性性Flammability is the ability to burn. This characteristic is important because we are surrounded with various textile products. This is especially important to babies & children’s wear, sleep wear and functional wear.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre
12) Thermoplasticity 熱熱熱熱 塑塑塑塑 性性性性The ability of fibres to withstand heat exposure is an important factor affecting their suitability for many end uses.
Discussion/Exercise
Discuss any two fibre properties that you consider are more important for garment making.
Suggest the material to make sportswear and give reasons.
Fibre Properties
Common Garment Terms
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items -- Ready To Wear
Common Garment Terms
Artificial Fur / Fake Fur Garment
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Woolen suiting
Woolen knitwear
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Bermuda Shorts
Riding Breeches
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Flare Skirt Pleated Skirt Bias Skirt
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Straight Skirt Panel Skirt Gored Skirt
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Culottes Shift Dress
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Occasion Ladies Wear & Kids Wear
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Hand knitted sweater Pullover Knitted co-ordinates
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Cardigan Blended Sw eater
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Trench Coat Camisole Vest
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
Construction Line Notching on Pattern
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
Pattern Grading
Marker Layout
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
Potting 1st pattern to computer
Computer Marker Layout & Checking
Marker Printing
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
Computer aided Fabric Continuous Fusing Ma chineCutting
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
Fabric Cutting Fabric Cutting with me tal gloves
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
French Seam Directional Line
Collar Point
Shoulder Yoke
Sleeve
Sleeve Placket
Cuff
Vent
Collar Band
Collar
Collar Button
Armhole
Chest Pocket
Front Placket
Front Panel
Sleeve Placket
Cuff Button
Garment Parts Description
Garment Parts Description
Waistband
Slanting Pocket
Out-leg Seam
Turn-up
Belt Loops
Front Pleats
Front Fly
Front Rise
Front Crease
Inseam
Manufacturing Terms
Bust Dart and Waist Dart
Garment Parts Description
Flare SleevesKimono Sleeves Batwing Sleeves
Garment Parts Description
Raglan Sleeves Puff Sleeves Bishop SleevesPetal Sleeves
Garment Parts Description
Thank You
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