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A,t;(le
Effect of Katha leaves dye on VAS sheep breed wool
Collection and processing ofwool
Atriple crossed UASsheep breed
wool was collected from poultry, sheepand goat farm, MainAgriculturalResearchStation, UAS, Dharwad.Leaves were
collected from the Department of Forestry,UAS,Dharwad and these were shade dried
and crushed into fine pieces and used as
a dye material for their process.
A RashmP, Geeta Mahale* 1, R K Sunanda1 and MJaved2
lDepartment of Textilesand Apparel Designing,College of Rural Home Science, UAS,Dharwad-580 005, Karnataka
2Department of AnimalNutrition, UAS,Dharwad-580 005, Kamataka
*Correspondent author, E-mail: aicrpct@rediffmail.com
I June hence leaves are left unused. In the
search of new sources of natural dye forwool, authors have attempted extraction
of dye from leaves of this tree and
examined its effect on yam properties of
UASsheep breed wool.
The present trend towards revival of natural dyes has encouraged
researchers to develop variety of natural dyes from various plants for different
fabrics. Among such natural dyes is the Acacia catechu Linn. which is a goodsource of tannin, gum, timber, fuel and fodder also. The leaves of the tree are
also rich in tannin but are left unused. Hence, an attempt was made to dye the
UASsheep breed wool (off white colour) with a dye extracted from leaves anddyed samples were assessed for their physical parameters.
Keywords: Acacia catechu, Katha, Cutch Tree, Dye, UASsheep wool.
IPe code; Int. d. 7_ C09B61/00, D06p 1/34, D06p 3/14
Abstract
Introduction of the wool usually affects.Theabsorption
of dye molecules depends on the polarity
In India sheep plays pivotal role of its polymer and its amorphous nature.
in the rural agrarian economy. Millions Thepresent trend towards revival
of small and marginal farmers and . of natural dyes has encouragedlandless labourers are solely dependent researchers to develop variety of natural
on sheep production for earning their dyes from various plants for different
livelihood. A variety of products are fabrics. Among such natural dyes is the
produced from the sheep farmingindustry Katha obtained from heartwood of Cutchranging from wool and woolen products, Tree,Acacia catechu Linn. (Hindi
leather and leather products, meat and Khair), used in Pan preparation and formeat products and as manure and milk printing and dyeing purposes. The plantto limited extent. is also a rich source of tannin, gum,
This UASsheep wool fibre may timber, fuel and fodder. The chief
vary from off white to light cream in constituents are catechin andcolour. The variation in colour is due to catechutannic acid and toxifolin.Catechin
act of chromophores. The wool polymer is biologicallyhigWyactive and is used as
is chemicallyverysensitiveto atmospheric a haemostatic. Toxifolinhas antibacterial,oxygen and oil pollutants. Since the antifungal,antiviral,anti-intlammatoryand
amorphous processing of wool involves antioxidant properties.
chemicals and machineries, the strength The tree is leafless during May-
Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004
It is evidentfrom Table3 that yarn
elongation before scouring was 6.23%andwas decreased to 4.23% after scouring.
The percentage decrease in yarn
elongation was 30.65.
In general there was further
decrease in yarn elongation (3.32%) after
dyeing.However,post-mordanting methodshowed least decrease (3.39 %) in yarn
elongation followed by simultaneous
mordanting (3.33%) and pre-mordantingmethod (3.26%). Irrespective of mordant
concentrations and mordanting methods
Potassium dichromate had least yam
elongation (3.16%) followed by Copper
sulphate (3.27%), Potash alum (3.41%)
and Ferrous sulphate (3.47%). 1\vo percent mordant concentration showed least
decrease in yam elongation (20.00%)
followed by three (21.27%) and one
(22.69%) per centmordant concentrations.
Effect on yam elongation
and mordents 1 and 2 per cent mordantconcentrations exhibited minimum
decrease in strength (474 and 461 Wtex)
followed by 3 per cent (439 Wtex). Wool
sample mordanted with Potash alum (434
gltex) had least strength and was highest
for Potassium dichromate (476 gltex).The low tensile strength of the
wool is due to relatively few hydrogen.bonds that are formed within polymer
system. When wool absorbs dye solution,
dye molecules gradually force sufficient
polymers apart to cause a significant
number of hydrogen bonds to break. In
addition dye molecules hydrolyse many
salt linkages in amorphous regions ofwool
fibre. Breakage of hydrogen bond and
hydrolysis of salt linkage results in loss in
tenacity.
74.29
109.60
73.40
It is imperative from Table 2 that
yarn strength before scouring was 608 W
tex, which was reduced to 502 Wtexafter
scouring. Percentage decrease in yam
strength after scouring was found to be
17.41 g.
After scouring and dyeing (458
Wtex) the strength of yarn was reduced.Irrespective of mordents and their
concentration pre-mordanting (483 W
tex) method showed least decrease in yarn
strength followed by post (446 Wtex) and
simultaneous (445 Wtex) mordanting
method. Despite of mordanting methods
Table 1 depicts the optimized
dyeing conditions for UASsheep breed
wool. Wool dyed sample of 6 per cent dye
concentration and 45 minutes dye
extraction time, dyeing time, and
mordanting time, respectively showed
greater per cent of dye absorption. Vivid
range of light to dark brown, olive green
and green shades were obtained withdifferent mordents.
Effect on yam strength
Results
Details %/time
- .•... -
-Dye concentration
6%
Dye extraction time
45 min
Dyeing time
45 min
Mordanting time
45 min
Table 1: Optimized dyeing conditions for
UASsheep breed wool (at 640 Iv)
Dye ~~so~tion % .1
2
3
4
s. No.
The scoured UASsheep breed
wool was dyed with leaf extract in
optimized dyeing conditions (Table 1)
using open dyebeaker bath with MLR1:50in three concentrations of mordents in
three mordanting methods. The dyed
samples were allowed to cool and thenwashed in water to remove the excess dye
particles present on the surface and shadedried.
Dyeing of wool
Metallic mordents, Potash alum,
Potassium dichromate, Copper sulphate
and Ferrous sulphate were used indifferent concentrations (Tables 2&3).
ASTM(D22 56-75, 1976) yarn
tensile strength tester was used to study
the strength and elongation and
statisticallyanalysedusing correlation test.
The wool yarns were scoured for
two hours in a solution containing soda
ash (Na2C03 - 2% based on weight of thematerial), soap solution (3% based on
weight of the material) with MLR 1:30
maintaining the temperature of 55 to
60°C. Laterthe wool samples were washed
thoroughly in cold water and shade dried.
Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004
Art;t,
Table 2: Effectof scouring and dyeing on yarn strength (gltex) in acidic media
Treatments Mordants Concentration of mordants
1% 2%
436 465
(13.14) 430
505
(14.34)
(0.59)476
478
(5.17)(4.78)
493
486
(1.79)
(3.78)
8.76) (17.13)
479(4.58)
(3.58)426
432
(15.13)
(13.94)430
443
(14.34) 437(12.94)
(11.35)
(28.28)
(17.33)400
440
(20.50).
(12.35)
460467
(8.36)(6.97)
466464
(7.17)
(7.56)
~21 (11.15)
463
(7.76)
483
(3.78)
493
(1.79)500
(0.39)
(3.58)
(16.73)
473
(5.77)
436
(13.14)466
(7.17)
496
(1.19)603
(20.11)466
(7.17)466
(7.17)
(0.99)
(13.74)
500
(0.39)
436
(13.14)433
(13.74)
PA
PDPre-mordanting CS
PD
Simultaneous mordanting
CS
FS
PA
(5.77)PD
420500
Post-mordanting(16.33)(0.39)
CS
475466
(5.37)
(7.17)FS
498430
(0.79)
(14.34)
4'52(7.17)
(9.96)
(5.57)
(8.16)
Figures in Parentheses indicate percentages
Note: PA-Potash alum; PD-Potassium dichromate; CS-Copper sulphate; FS-Ferrous sulphate
Mordanting methodsMordants
Mordant concentration
Before scouring - 608g1tex: After scouring - 502g1tex
% Decrease after scouring- 17.41Combined mean
PA 434PD 476
CS 459FS 464
CD1%1.764
1.882
1.764
CD5%
1.301
1.382
1.301
Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004
Arti,'eT' ~
'_'0.""",
Table 3: Effect of scouring and dyeing on yarn elongation (%) in acidic mediaTreatments
.~Mordants Concentration of mordantsMean.•.
1%2%3%
PA
I3.43 3.833.013.42
(18.91)
(9.45)(28.84)(19.14)
PD
3.362.533.022.97
Pre-mordanting
I(20.56)(40.18)(28.60)(29.78)
CS
3.402.563.803.25
(19.62)
(39.47)(10.16)(23.16)
FS
4.003.003.303.43
(5.43)
(29.Q7)(21.98)(18.91)
.98
3.283.2
)(29.55)(22.45)(22.93)
PA
I3.50 3.503.453.48
(17.25)
(17.25)(18.43)(17.73)
PD
3.403.403.003.26
Simultaneous mordanting
(19.62)(19.62)(29.07)(22.93)
CS
3.303.203.203.23
(21.98)
(24.34)(24.34)(23.64)
FS
3.103.863.163.37
-(26.71)
(8.34)(25.29)(20.33)
.32
3.493.203.33
.51)
(17.49)(24.34)(21.27)
;).40
5.4U5.55
(19.62)
(22.93)(19.62)(20.80)
PD
3.303.333.133.25
Post-mordantingI(21.98)(21.27)(26.00)(23.16)
CS
2.903.333.833.35
(31.44)
(16.54)(9.45)(20.80)
FS
I3.60 3.533.763.63
(14.89)
(20.56)(11.11)(14.18)
3.30
3.363.533.39
21.98)
(21.27)(16.54)(19.85)
3.38
3.273.333.32
(20.00)
(22.69)(21.27)(21.51)
Mordanting methodsMordants
Mordant concentration
Figures in Parentheses indicate percentagesNote: PA-Potash alum PD-Potassium dichromate
Before scouring - 6.23%: After scouring - 4.23%
% Decrease after scouring- 30.65
Combined mean
PA 3.41
PD 3.16
CS 3.21
FS 3.47
CS-Copper sulphate
CDl%
0.0383
0.0310
0.0383
CD5%
0.0286
0.0213
0.0256
FS-FelTous sulphate
416 . Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004
Table 4: Influence of dye absorption (%) on yarn strengthand elongation in acidic media
No. of samples 36,
36 36
Total
589.9534809.00240.16
Mean
I78.56 481.003.28.rI
0.077 NS0.04NS
•• __ -<eo
----.... -.....
r-correlationNS-non significant
methods and concentrations at 1 per cent Referenceslevel.
Verma N and Gupta NP, Dyeing of
woolen knitting yarn with natural
dyes, Indian Text J, 1994, 104(7),82-85.
Rama Rao D and Gupta VB, Physical
and morphological characteristics ofwool fibers, Indian J Fibre TextRes, 1992, 17(1), 1-8.
3. Rao TR, Dyeing woolen textile,Indian Text J, 1997, 107(11),54-57.
1. pankaj and Singh,Recerltadvances in
wool dyeing, Man-Made TextIndia, 2002, 45(1), 20-24.
On the whole mordanting withdifferent mordant concentrations 2.
increased the dye uptake of UASsheep
breed samples. Dyeing process reduced
the yam strength and yam elongation of
wool samples to some extent. Yarnstrength and elongation showed positive
and non significant correlation with
per cent dye absorption. However,
correlation test proved that there is no
significant difference in the physical 4.
properties. Vivid range of light to darkbrown, olivegreen and green shades wereobtained with different mordants. The
findingssupport a good utilizationofforestbiomass .
Conclusion
The decrease in yam elongation
may be attributed to the displacement of
keratin configuration of wool polymers.Under constant rate of extension i.e.
stretching of yarn may permanently
deform the wool fibre, which graduallybreaks the interpolymer forces ofattraction of the molecule and such
displacement of polymer would become
apparent as a distortion of wool fibre
leading to decrease in yam elongation.The correlation analysis
(Table 4) depicted positive and non
significant relation between yam strength
and elongation. At the same timecorrelation results showed decrease in
yam elongation and strength but the rate
of dye absorption was increased
compared to control samples. Thestatistical ANOVAtest showed significant
relations between mordants, mordanting
Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004 . 417
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