Cook's Country eats local : 150 regional recipes you should be making no matter where you live

150REGIONALRECIPESYOUSHOULDBEMAKING

NOMATTERWHEREYOULIVE

BYTHEEDITORSATAMERICA’STESTKITCHEN

Copyright©2015bytheEditorsatAmerica’sTestKitchenAllrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedortransmittedinanymannerwhatsoeverwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher,exceptinthecaseofbriefquotationsembodiedincriticalarticlesorreviews.

America’sTestKitchen17StationStreetBrookline,MA02445

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataCook’sCountryeatslocal:150regionalrecipesyoushouldbemakingnomatterwhereyoulive/bytheeditorsatAmerica’sTestKitchen.pagescmIncludesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.ISBN978-1-936493-99-9(alk.paper)E-bookISBN:978-1-940352-29-91.Cooking,American.I.Cook’scountry.II.America’stestkitchen(Televisionprogram)TX715.C785352015641.5973--dc232015005574

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EDITORIALDIRECTOR:JackBishopEDITORIALDIRECTOR,BOOKS:ElizabethCarduffEXECUTIVEEDITOR:LoriGalvin

SENIOREDITOR:DebraHudak

ASSISTANTEDITOR:MelissaHerrickEDITORIALASSISTANT:SamanthaRonanDESIGNDIRECTOR:AmyKlee

ARTDIRECTOR:GregGalvan

DESIGNER:JenKanavosHoffman

MAPS:MichaelNewhouse

PHOTOGRAPHYDIRECTOR:JulieCoteASSOCIATEARTDIRECTOR,PHOTOGRAPHY:SteveKliseSTAFFPHOTOGRAPHER:DanielJ.vanAckereADDITIONALPHOTOGRAPHY:Keller+KellerandCarlTremblayFOODSTYLING:CatrineKeltyandMariePirainoPHOTOSHOOTKITCHENTEAM:

ASSOCIATEEDITOR:ChrisO’ConnorTESTCOOK:DanielCellucciASSISTANTTESTCOOK:MatthewFairmanPRODUCTIONDIRECTOR:GuyRochfordSENIORPRODUCTIONMANAGER:JessicaLindheimerQuirkPRODUCTIONMANAGEMENTSPECIALIST:ChristineWalshPRODUCTIONANDIMAGINGSPECIALISTS:HeatherDube,DennisNoble,LaurenRobbins,andJessicaVoasPROJECTMANAGER:BrittDresser

COPYEDITOR:BarbaraWood

PROOFREADER:PatJalbert-LevineINDEXER:ElizabethParson

Contents

NAVIGATINGTHISE-BOOK

WELCOMETOAMERICA’STESTKITCHEN

Preface

Chapter1:NewEnglandandtheMid-Atlantic

Chapter2:AppalachiaandtheSouth

Chapter3:TheMidwestandGreatPlains

Chapter4:TexasandtheWest

DiningDestinations

ConversionsandEquivalents

MasterRecipeIndex

NavigatingthisE-Book

ThiseBookincludesaTableofContentsthatallowsyoutojumptoanychapter.Andeachchapterhasitsowntableofcontentswithlinkstoeveryrecipeinthechapter.WehavealsocreatedaRecipeIndexthatlistsalltherecipesinthe

book,dividedbychapter,inoneplace.YoucanaccesstheRecipeIndexfromtheTableofContents.(Italsoappearsattheendofthebook.)EachtitleintheRecipeIndexisalinkthatwilltakeyoudirectlytothatrecipe.Thiscookbookisfilledwithsidebars;throughoutthebookthereare

linkstothismaterialwhereappropriate.MosteBookreadingdevicesalsoofferasearchfunctionthatallows

youtotypeinexactlywhatyouarelookingfor.PleasereadthedocumentationforyourparticulareBookreaderformoreinformationonitssearchfunctionandanyothernavigationalfeaturesitmayoffer.

WELCOMETOAMERICA’STESTKITCHEN

Thisbookhasbeentested,written,andeditedbythefolksatAmerica’sTestKitchen,averyreal2,500-square-footkitchenlocatedjustoutsideofBoston.ItisthehomeofCook’sIllustratedmagazineandCook’sCountrymagazineandistheMonday-through-Fridaydestinationformorethanfourdozentestcooks,editors,foodscientists,tasters,andcookwarespecialists.Ourmissionistotestrecipesoverandoveragainuntilweunderstandhowandwhytheyworkanduntilwearriveatthe“best”version.Westarttheprocessoftestingarecipewithacompletelackof

preconceptions,whichmeansthatweacceptnoclaim,notheory,notechnique,andnorecipeatfacevalue.Wesimplyassembleasmanyvariationsaspossible,testahalf-dozenofthemostpromising,andtastetheresultsblind.Wethenconstructourownhybridrecipeandcontinuetotestit,varyingingredients,techniques,andcookingtimesuntilwereachaconsensus.Theresult,wehope,isthebestversionofaparticularrecipe,butwerealizethatonlyyoucanbethefinaljudgeofoursuccess(orfailure).Asweliketosayinthetestkitchen,“Wemakethemistakes,soyoudon’thaveto.”Allofthiswouldnotbepossiblewithoutabeliefthatgoodcooking,

muchlikegoodmusic,isindeedbasedonafoundationofobjectivetechnique.Somepeoplelikespicyfoodsandothersdon’t,butthereisarightwaytosauté,thereisabestwaytocookapotroast,andtherearemeasurablescientificprinciplesinvolvedinproducingperfectlybeaten,stableeggwhites.Thisisourultimategoal:toinvestigatethefundamentalprinciplesofcookingsothatyoubecomeabettercook.Itisassimpleasthat.Ifyou’recurioustoseewhatgoesonbehindthescenesatAmerica’sTest

Kitchen,checkoutourdailyblog,TheFeed,atAmericasTestKitchenFeed.com,whichfeatureskitchensnapshots,exclusiverecipes,videotips,andmuchmore.Youcanwatchuswork(inouractual

testkitchen)bytuningintoAmerica’sTestKitchen(AmericasTestKitchen.com)orCook’sCountryfromAmerica’sTestKitchen(CooksCountryTV.com)onpublictelevision.TuneintoAmerica’sTestKitchenRadio(ATKradio.com)onpublicradiotolistentoinsights,tips,andtechniquesthatilluminatethetruthaboutrealhomecooking.Wanttohoneyourcookingskillsorfinallylearnhowtobake—fromanAmerica’sTestKitchentestcook?EnrollinacookingclassatouronlinecookingschoolatOnlineCookingSchool.com.AndfindinformationaboutsubscribingtoCook’sIllustratedmagazineatCooksIllustrated.comorCook’sCountrymagazineatCooksCountry.com.Bothmagazinesarepublishedeveryothermonth.Howeveryouchoosetovisitus,wewelcomeyouintoourkitchen,whereyoucanstandbyoursideaswetestourwaytothebestrecipesinAmerica.

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Preface

Backinthe1970s,IdroveacrossAmericaonthreedifferentoccasions,stoppinginTennesseediners,truckstopsinOklahoma,andlocaleateriesfromtheDeepSouthtotheTexasPanhandletothefast-foodhauntsofSouthernCalifornia.Notallofthefoodwasbrilliant,butonceinawhileIcameacrossarecipethatwassospecialthatittoldthestoryofthatparticularplace—itcouldn’thavebeenservedanywhereelse.Yes,IwasfamiliarwithmostofwhatNewEnglandhastooffer,like

ConnecticutSteamedCheeseburgersandChickenRiggies,andIknewsomethingaboutMuffulettasandOysterPo’BoysfromNewOrleansaswellasCheddarBeerSoupfromWisconsin,butIhadnevertastedMoravianSugarCake,SweetPotatoSonkerfromtheCarolinas,IowaLooseMeatSandwiches(thesesoundawfulanddon’tlooksogoodbuttheyarefabulous),MillionairePie,TexasCaviar,orTickTockOrangeStickyRolls.Forhalfacentury,localAmericanregionalspecialtieshavebeen

relegatedtothebackburner—communitycookbookrecipesthatfewofustookseriously.ThefoodscenewasallaboutthehottestNewYork,LA,orSanFranciscochefs,the“new”Americancuisineratherthanthecookingofourpast.And,tobefair,muchoftheolderrepertoiredidneedafreshlooktomakeitvitalandmodernwithoutlosingitsessence.(That’swhereourtestkitchencanhelpout—werebuildrecipesasiftheyareoldcars,fixingthetransmissionsandrestoringbodyworktonewcondition!)Plus,manyrecipesdependonhard-to-findlocalingredients,andweworkhardtomaketheserecipesaccessibletoanationalaudience.Cook’sCountryEatsLocalistheresultofalmostadecadeof

investigationbytheeditorsofCook’sCountrymagazinewhohavescouredthecountrylookingforlocalspecialties.Weattendlocalfoodfestivals,interviewlocalrestaurateursandcooks,andspendweeksatatimeontheroad,the“BlueHighways”(smalltwo-laneroads)thatmanywritershavefoundsoinspirational.WhatwehavediscoveredisawholenewworldofAmericancooking,recipesthathaveflownbeneaththenationalradarfor

generationsonlytocomebackintothespotlightintimetohonorourownculinaryhistory.Whowouldn’twantarecipeforThoroughbredPie,madewithbutter,

bourbon,andalayerofmeltedchocolateonthebottom?OrIronRangePorketta,whichispackedwiththeflavoroffennel(freshandseeds),orKnoephlaSoup,madewithchickenandtinydumplings(justsqueezethebatteroutofazipper-lockbagthathasonecornercutoff)?Bierocks(alsocalledRunsas)aremorethantastybeefbunsfilledwithbeef,cabbage,andcheese.And,oneofmyfavorites,BeeStingCakeismadewithlushvanillacustardfilling,andthecakeitselfisabrioche-stylecakewithahoney-almondcrust.I’lltakethatdessertoveraFrenchtartanyday.Plus,Cook’sCountryEatsLocalprovidesregionalmapswith

informationaboutwheretogotoeatmanyoftheserecipeslocally,fromMainetoSouthernCalifornia.And,ofcourse,theserecipeshavebeenputthroughtheirpacesattheCook’sCountrytestkitchensoyouknowthattheywillworkthefirsttimeandeverytime.WhenIwasgrowingup,MarieBriggs,ourtownbaker,wasknownfor

herhand-sizemolassescookiesthatweresoft,nothard,andhadthesaltytangofgoodblackstrapmolasses.Itwashersignaturerecipe,althoughshealsomadetop-notchbiscuitsandanadamabreadaswell.JustlikeMarie,therearethousandsofcooksaroundthecountrywhohavetheirownlocalspecialties,recipesthataretiedtosmalltownsandtheirhistory.ThisisthefoodofAmerica’spastandfuture,therecipesthatmakeuswhowearetoday.Thanksforstoppingby.Weareproudofthiscollectionofrecipesand

hopethatmanyofthesedishesbecomepartofyourculinaryrepertoire,nomatterwhereyoulive.

CHRISTOPHERKIMBALLFounderandEditor,Cook’sIllustratedandCook’sCountryHost,America’sTestKitchenandCook’sCountryfromAmerica’sTestKitchen

1.CHICKENSPIEDIES,UPSTATENEWYORK

2.UTICAGREENS,UTICA,NY

3.MAPLESYRUPPIE,VERMONTANDNEWHAMPSHIRE

4.JOEBOOKERSTEW,CENTRALMAINE

5.PITTSBURGHWEDDINGSOUP,PITTSBURGH,PA6.CITYCHICKEN,WESTERNPENNSYLVANIA7.BABKA,NEWYORKCITY,NY

8.RHODEISLANDJOHNNYCAKES,RICHMOND,RI9.WELLESLEYFUDGECAKE,WELLESLEY,MA

CHAPTER1:NEWENGLANDANDTHEMID-ATLANTIC

ConnecticutSteamedCheeseburgers

ChickenSpiedies

BonelessBuffaloChicken

PhiladelphiaCheesesteaks

ChickenàlaKingToastedItalianBread

ChickenRiggies

UticaGreens

CityChicken

NewEnglandBarPizza

CornedBeefandCabbage

EasyNewEnglandClamChowder

CommonCrackers

RhodeIslandRedClamChowderGarlicToasts

NewEnglandFishChowder

ClassicCornChowder

withAndouilleandBellPepperwithChorizoandChileswithSweetPotatoesandCayennewithProsciuttoandSage

JoeBookerStew

PittsburghWeddingSoup

WaldorfSaladwithDriedCherriesandPecanswithRedGrapesandAlmondsCurriedWaldorfSaladwithGreenGrapesandPeanuts

Cider-GlazedRootVegetableswithPomegranateandCilantro

QuickerBostonBakedBeans

PotatoKnishes

Bialys

BallparkPretzels

RhodeIslandJohnnycakesMapleButter

PotatoBiscuitswithChiveswithCheddarandScallionswithBacon

GarlicKnots

AnadamaBread

HermitCookies

PotatoChipCookiesChocolate-DippedPotatoChipCookies

BostonCreamCupcakes

WellesleyFudgeCake

BeeStingCake

CranberryUpside-DownCake

MapleSyrupPieCrèmeFraîche

MarlboroughApplePie

SummerBlueberryCrumble

LemonSnow

FINDALOCALHOTSPOT

CONNECTICUTSTEAMEDCHEESEBURGERS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Connecticut’ssteamedburgersprovethatmedium-wellbeefneednotbedryandgray.Takingacuefromthesteamcabinetsusedbythestate’sburgerpros,wecreatedourownmoistcookingenvironmentwithaDutchovenandmetalsteamerbasket.Wepressedasmalldivotintothecenterofeachpattytopreventtheburgersfrombulgingupwardwhilecooking.Ourpattiesweresteamedtoajuicymedium-wellinjust10minutes;smallamountsofsavorytomatopaste,soysauce,andonionpowderaddedtothegroundbeefbeforeformingthepattieskickeduptheirflavor.Placingthebunsrightinthepotandtoppingtheburgerswithshreddedcheddarcheeseallowedforsoft,warmbreadandgooeycheesethatstayedput.Afteronebite,weweresteamedburgerconverts.Forburgersthisjuicyandflavorful,wewereready

steamedburgerconverts.Forburgersthisjuicyandflavorful,wewerereadytoforgetthegrill.

1½ pounds85percentleangroundbeef

2 teaspoonssoysauce

1 teaspoononionpowder

1 teaspoontomatopaste

teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

4ouncessharpcheddarcheese,shredded(1cup)

4 hamburgerbuns

CONNECTICUTSTEAMEDCHEESEBURGERS

SERVES4

Weprefertheseburgerscookedmedium-well,butformediumburgers,steamthemfor7minutesbeforeshuttingofftheheatandaddingthecheese.Servetheseburgerswiththeusualarrayofgarnishesandcondiments:lettuce,tomato,onion,ketchup,mayonnaise,andmustard.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Combinebeef,soysauce,onionpowder,tomatopaste,salt,andpepperinbowl.Dividebeefinto4balls.Gentlyflattenintopatties¾inchthickand4incheswide.Pressshallowdivotintocenterofeachpatty.Bring4cupswatertoboilincoveredDutchovenovermedium-highheat(watershouldnottouchbottomofsteamerbasket).

2.Arrangepattiesinsteamerbasket.SetsteamerbasketinsideDutchoven,cover,andcookfor8minutes.RemoveDutchovenfromheat.Dividecheeseevenlyamongburgers,cover,andletsituntilcheesemelts,about2minutes.Placebuntopsonburgersandbunbottoms,cutsideup,ontopofbuntops.Coverandletsituntilbunssoften,about30seconds.Transferbunbottomstocuttingboard,addcondiments,andtopwithburgersandbuntops.Serve.

EATINGLOCAL MERIDEN,CT

WhatdosteamedcheeseburgershavetodowithsuburbanConnecticut?Thesejuicyburgerssmotheredingooeycheesearesaidtodescendfromsteamedbeef-and-cheesesandwiches,whichweresoldfromhorse-drawncartstoconstructionworkersintheHartfordareaofcentralConnecticutinthe1920s.Whatweretheseconstructionworkersbuilding?Housing,retailshops,taverns—younameit—toaccommodateaninfluxofresidentsfromthecityofHartfordtothesuburbs.Horse-drawntrolleylinesandlaterelectrictrolleylinesmadeitpossibleformanyofthecity’sresidentstoliveinlesscrowdedconditions,yetstillbeabletocommutetowork.Thepopulationofonesuburb,WestHartford,grewfromjust4,000tomorethan24,000between1910and1930.In1959inMeriden,Connecticut,TED’SRESTAURANTstartedsteamingtheirfirstcheeseburgers—andtheystillmakethemtoday.Themeatandcheesearecookedinseparatemoldsinacustom-madesteamcabinet;theburgerbrownsandthecheesemeltsintoagooeymass.Thetwoarecombinedintoafantasticallymessybutdeliciousburgeryou’llnotsoonforget.

TED’SRESTAURANT1046BroadSt.,Meriden,CT

CHICKENSPIEDIES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Traditionally,preparingchickenspiedies,upstateNewYork’sjuicygrilledchickensandwiches,callsforuptoaweekofmarinatingbeforethemeateverhitsthegrill.Wewantedtooverrulethiscustombycreatingamarinadethatimpartedtangy,brightflavorwithoutthewait.Prickingthechickenwithaforkbeforemarinatingallowedtheflavortopenetratethemeatinonly30minutes.Apotent,oil-basedmarinadekeptthechickenmoistonthegrill,andadrizzleofreservedmarinademixedwithlemon,vinegar,andmayonnaisereinforcedourspiedies’trademarkflavorsbeforeserving.Withthesesmallchanges,wehadazesty,full-flavoredsandwichreadyintimefordinnertonight.

cupoliveoil

2 tablespoonschoppedfreshbasil

2garliccloves,minced

2teaspoonsgratedlemonzestplus1tablespoonjuice

1 teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

teaspoondriedoregano

teaspoonredpepperflakes

CHICKENSPIEDIES

SERVES6

Youwillneedsix12-inchmetalskewersforthisrecipe.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

tablespoonsmayonnaise

1 tablespoonredwinevinegar

4(6-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmed

6(6-inch)subrolls,partiallysplitlengthwise,or6largeslicesItalianbread

1.Combineoil,basil,garlic,lemonzest,salt,pepper,oregano,andpepperflakesinlargebowl.Transfer2tablespoonsoilmixturetoseparatebowlandwhiskinmayonnaise,vinegar,andlemonjuice;refrigerateuntilreadytoserve.(Marinadeandsaucecaneachberefrigerated,covered,forupto2days.)

2.Prickbreastsalloverwithfork,cutinto1¼-inchchunks,andtransfertobowlwithremainingoilmixture.Refrigerate,covered,for30minutesorupto3hours.

3.Removechickenfrommarinadeandthreadchunksontosix12-inchmetalskewers.

4A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimneystarterfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(6quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyovergrill.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

4B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburnerstohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.Leaveallburnersonhigh.

5.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placeskewersongrillandcook(coveredifusinggas),turningfrequently,untillightlycharredandcookedthrough,10to15minutes.

6.Transferchickentorolls,removeskewers,anddrizzlewithmayonnaisemixture.Serve.

SPEEDYSPIEDIEPREP

Forthemostflavorintheleasttime,followthesequicksteps.

1.Tohelpmarinadepenetratemeat,prickchickenbreastsalloverwithfork.

2.Toexposemoresurfaceareatomarinade,cutchickeninto1¼-inchchunks.

3.Tobuildlotsofflavorinonly30minutes,combinechickenwithhighlyseasonedmarinade.

BONELESSBUFFALOCHICKEN

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ForBuffalochickenthatcouldcompetewiththefieryfingerfoodatourfavoritesportsbar,wewantedtocreategreatflavorandtexturefromtheinsideout.Thesenuggetsneededmoistchicken,acrunchycoating,andjustenoughheat,plusacoolbluecheesedressingtokeepthespicyburnincheck.Takingatipfromfriedchickenrecipes,wesoakedthechickeninabuttermilkbrinetokeepthemeatjuicyandseasonedbeforedredgingitinamixtureofcornstarch,flour,bakingsoda,andatouchofhotsauce.Thiscoatingcrispedbeautifully,andourbrilliantorangeBuffalosauce—thickenedwithcornstarch—clungtothecragsnicely,ensuringabalanceddoseofheatineverybite.Servedwithourhomemadebluecheesedressing,thisBuffalochickenwasgameday–ready.

thisBuffalochickenwasgameday–ready.

CHICKEN

4(6-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmedandcutinto1½-inchchunks

cupbuttermilk

1 teaspoonsalt

cuphotsauce

cupwater

cupscornstarch

1 tablespoonunsaltedbutter

BONELESSBUFFALOCHICKEN

SERVES4TO6

Instep3,thefriedchickenpiecescanbeheldina200-degreeovenfor30minutesbeforebeingtossedwiththesauce.Arelativelymildcayennepepper–basedhotsauce,likeFrank’s,isessential;avoidhottersauceslikeTabasco.StiltonisanEnglishbluecheesewithapungent,slightlysweetflavor.Thedressingyieldsabout1½cups.

teaspoonsugar

4 largeeggwhites

½ cupall-purposeflour½

teaspoonbakingsoda

4 cupsvegetableoil

DRESSING

3ouncesStiltoncheese,crumbled(¾cup)

cupmayonnaise

6 tablespoonssourcream

tablespoonscidervinegar

teaspoonpepper

teaspoongarlicpowder

1.FORTHECHICKEN:Combinechicken,buttermilk,andsaltinlargezipper-lockbagandrefrigeratefor30minutesorupto2hours.Combinehotsauce,water,2teaspoonscornstarch,butter,andsugarinsmallsaucepan.Whiskovermediumheatuntilthickened,about5minutes;setaside.

2.Whiskeggwhitesinshallowdishuntilfoamy.Stirtogetherflour,bakingsoda,remainingcornstarch,and6tablespoonshotsaucemixtureinsecondshallowdishuntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal.Removechickenfrommarinadeandpatdrywithpapertowels.Coathalfofchickenwitheggwhites,thendredgeincornstarchmixture.Transferchickentoplateandrepeatwithremainingchicken.

3.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiloilregisters350degrees.Fryhalfofchickenuntilgoldenbrown,about4minutes,turningeachpiecehalfwaythroughcooking.Transferchickentopapertowel–linedplate.Returnoilto350degreesandrepeatwithremainingchicken.

4.Warmremaininghotsaucemixtureovermedium-lowheatuntilsimmering.Combinechickenandhotsaucemixtureinlargebowlandtosstocoat.

5.FORTHEDRESSING:Processallingredientsinfoodprocessoruntilsmooth,about15seconds,scrapingdownsidesofbowlasneeded.Servewithchicken.(Dressingcanberefrigeratedforupto1week.)TOMAKEAHEAD:Thisdishfreezesbeautifully.Instep3,fryeachbatchofchickenuntillightgoldenbrown,about2minutes.Drainandcoolchickenonpapertowel–linedplate,thentransfertofreezer.Oncechickeniscompletelyfrozen(thisshouldtakeabout2hours),transferittozipper-lockbagandfreezeforupto1month.(Freezesauceseparatelyinairtightcontainerforupto1month.)Whenreadytoserve,heat4cupsoilto350degreesandfrychickenin2batchesuntildeepgoldenbrown,about2minutes,turningeachpiecehalfwaythroughcooking.Reheatsauceinmicrowaveorinsaucepanovermedium-lowheatuntilwarm.Tosschickenwithsauceasdirected.Serve.

PHILADELPHIACHEESESTEAKS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ThebestPhiladelphiacheesesteaksarefilledwithtender,juicymeattossedwithjusttherightamountofcheese,buteverythingridesonthecutandthicknessofthebeefthatfillsthosesplitsubrolls.Formaximumflavoratareasonableprice,weturnedtosirloinsteaktips(thoughmoreexpensive,rib-eyealsoworks).TomimicthestripsturnedoutbytheprofessionalmeatslicersinPhilly,wecutthetipsintosmallchunksandpoundedthemintopaper-thin,tendersheetsofsteak.PhiladelphiansliketheircheesesteakswithprovoloneorAmericancheeseorCheezWhiz,andallthreelendtheperfectcreamyfinishtoourhomemadeversion.Thelivelydebateoverwhoservesthebestcheesesteakinthecitymayneverberesolved,butweweremorethanhappytoserveupourfull-flavoredtakeonthisclassicsub.

morethanhappytoserveupourfull-flavoredtakeonthisclassicsub.

1½ poundssirloinsteaktips,trimmedandslicedwithgraininto1-inchpieces

2 tablespoonsvegetableoil

2smallonions,chopped

Saltandpepper

8thinslicesdeliprovolonecheese(8ounces),halved

4(6-inch)subrolls,partiallysplitlengthwise

PHILADELPHIACHEESESTEAKS

SERVES4

Wepreferthinslicesofprovolonecheesecuttoorderatthedelicounterforthisrecipe.(Packagedslicesaretoothicktomeltquickly.)AmericancheeseandCheezWhizarealsotraditionalchoicesforcheesesteaksandcanbeusedinplaceoftheprovolonehere.Ifyou’reusingCheezWhiz,don’taddittotheskilletwiththebeefinstep2.Instead,microwave¾cupinabowluntilwarmedthroughandthenspoonitovertheassembledsandwiches.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Placebeefpiecesinsinglelayerbetween2sheetsofplasticwrap,spacingthem6inchesapart.Usingmeatpounder,poundbeefuntilpaper-thin(slicesshouldbealmosttransparent).Heat2teaspoonsoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addonionsandcookuntilsoftenedandgolden,about5minutes.Transfertosmallbowl.

2.Heat2teaspoonsoilinnow-emptyskilletoverhighheatuntiljustsmoking.Addhalfofbeeftoskillet(slicesmayoverlap),seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcookuntilmeatisnolongerpink,about1minuteperside.Offheat,layer8piecesofprovoloneoverbeef.Usingspatula,pickuphalfofbeef-provolonemixtureandplaceit,beefsidedown,ontopofotherhalfofbeef-provolonemixture.Coverskilletuntilprovoloneismelted,about1minute.

3.Dividebeef-provolonemixtureevenlybetween2rolls,evenlydistributehalfofonionsoversandwiches,andpouranyaccumulatedjuicesfromskilletontomeat.Wrapeachsandwichtightlyinaluminumfoilandsetaside.

4.Wipeoutskilletandrepeatwithremaining2teaspoonsoil,remaininghalfofbeef,remaining8piecesofprovolone,remaining2rolls,andremaininghalfofonions.Wrapeachsandwichtightlyinfoilandletsitforabout1minutebeforeserving.

EATINGLOCAL PHILADELPHIA,PA

ThePhillycheesesteaksandwichwasbornin1930atPAT’SKINGOFSTEAKS,locatedinanItalian-AmericanneighborhoodinSouthPhiladelphia.Today,there’sacheesesteakjointonnearlyeverycornerinPhiladelphia—eveninChinatown—andeveryplacehasitsdevotedfollowers.Thetiny,bustlingintersectionwherecheesesteakgotitsstartisnowhometotwoofthemostfamouscheesesteakjointsinthecity:GENO’SSTEAKSand,ofcourse,theoriginalPat’s.WetookatriptoPhillytoseewhatallthehypewasabout.Evenat10:00a.m.,therewerelonglinesatbothestablishments.AtPat’s,Frank“Pat”Olivieri(thenephewoffounderPatOlivieri)showedushiscustom-madeGermanmeatslicerasifitwereashinynewEuropeansportscar(theslicer,whichcutsrib-eyesteaksintothosefamouslypaper-thinslices,andthecarwouldcostaboutthesame).AndatGeno’s,Genohimself,whosefatheropenedtherestaurantin1966,showedoffhisimpeccablyclean,sparklingkitchen.BothPatandGenomadeakillercheesesteakthat—loyaltiesaside—woulddoanyPhiladelphianproud.

PAT’SKINGOFSTEAKS1237E.PassyunkAve.,Philadelphia,PAGENO’SSTEAKS1219S.9thSt.,Philadelphia,PA

CHICKENÀLAKING

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSWewantedtorestorethisclassicchickendishtoprominencewhilekeepingthestepssimple,sowestartedwithitssignaturesauce.Ratherthanfiddlewitheggyolks,wecreateddepthofflavorbysautéingonionsinoilbeforeaddingmushrooms,redbellpepper,andflourtocreatearobustroux.Oncethecream,broth,andMadeirareduced,ourupdatedsaucewasasluxuriouslysilkyasitwaseasytoprepare.Tokeepthechickentenderandmoist,wesoakedthebreastsincream,lemon,andsalt.Afterreducingoursauceslightly,weaddedthebrinedchickenandpoacheditforonly10minutes.OnetasteofoursimplifiedchickenàlaKing,spoonedoverslicesofcrunchytoastedItalianbread,provedthatthisdishwasreadyforprimetime.

cupheavycream

2 tablespoonslemonjuice

Saltandpepper

4(6-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmedandcutinto1-inchpieces

1 tablespoonvegetableoil

1onion,choppedfine

8ounceswhitemushrooms,slicedthin

1redbellpepper,seededandchoppedfine

tablespoonsall-purposeflour

CHICKENÀLAKING

SERVES4

AnequalamountofbrandyordryMarsalacanbesubstitutedfortheMadeira.ServewithToastedItalianBread.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

cupMadeirawine

cupschickenbroth

2 tablespoonsmincedfreshparsley

1.Whisk½cupcream,1tablespoonlemonjuice,and1teaspoonsalttogetherinbowl.Combinechickenandcreammixtureinlargezipper-lockbag;refrigeratefor30minutes.

2.Heatoilinlargeskilletovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Cookonionuntilgolden,about3minutes.Addmushrooms,bellpepper,¼teaspoonsalt,and¼teaspoonpepperandcookuntilvegetableshavesoftened,about5minutes.Stirinflourandcookfor1minute.AddMadeira,scrapingupanybrownedbits,andcookuntilthickened,about1minute.Addbrothandremaining¼cupcreamandcookuntilsauceisverythickandspatulaleavestrailwhendraggedthroughsauce,about5minutes.

3.Stirinchickenmixtureandreduceheattomedium-low.Simmer,stirringfrequently,untilchickenisnolongerpink,about10minutes.Offheat,stirinremaining1tablespoonlemonjuiceandparsley.ServewithToastedItalianBread.

8(1-inch-thick)slicessupermarketItalianbread

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted

TOASTEDITALIANBREAD

MAKES8

ChickenàlaKingistypicallyservedovertoast,andwefoundtheperfectmatchwithsupermarketItalianbread,whosesofttexturetoastedupintoacrunchy,butstillfork-friendly,slice.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Arrangebreadonbakingsheet.Brushbutteronbothsidesofbreadslices.

2.Toastbreaduntilgoldenbrown,about10minutes,flippingsliceshalfwaythroughcooking.

FITFORAKING?

SomesaychickenàlaKingwascreatedfortheKings—Mr.andMrs.ClarkKing,theownersoftheBrightonBeachHotelinBrooklyn,NewYork—sometimearoundtheturnofthecentury.TheBrightonBeachHotelwasoneofthe19th-centuryhotelscreatedtocatertotheupperclass,whowantedtovisittheseashorebutdidn’twanttotraveltoofar.Thereareatleastahalfdozenothertheories—thoughnoneofthemrefertoroyalty,assomemightassume.

CHICKENRIGGIES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

“Riggies”aren’twellknownbeyondUtica,NewYork,sowesetouttomakethisheartydishofrigatoniwithspicychickenandvegetablesanewfavoriteondinnertablescoasttocoast.Startingwiththesauce,wedevelopedrusticItalianflavorwithcrushedtomatoes,onion,garlic,oregano,bellpepper,andmushrooms.Toinjectriggies’signaturespice,westirredinchoppedhotpickledcherrypeppersandtheirbrinebeforebalancingoutthesauce’saciditywithcream.Toinfusethemeatwithalittleheat,webrinedthechickenincherrypepperbrineandoliveoilforjust30minutes.Withthismuchflavorinplace,wecouldaffordtosimplypoachthechickeninthesauceattheend.Thesauceisstirredintoaldenterigatoni(where“riggies”gettheirname)withageneroushelpingofPecorino

(where“riggies”gettheirname)withageneroushelpingofPecorinoRomano.

4(6-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmedandcutinto1-inchpieces

¼ cupfinelychoppedjarredslicedhotcherrypeppers,plus3tablespoonscherrypepperbrine

3 tablespoonsoliveoil

Saltandpepper

10ounceswhitemushrooms,trimmedandquartered

2redbellpeppers,stemmed,seeded,andcutinto1-inchpieces

1onion,cutinto1-inchpieces

teaspoonsdriedoregano

CHICKENRIGGIES

SERVES6

Ifyoucanfindonlysweetcherrypeppers,add¼to½teaspoonredpepperflakeswiththegarlicinstep2.ParmesancheesecanbesubstitutedforthePecorinoRomano.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1(28-ounce)cancrushedtomatoes

cupheavycream

¾ cuppittedkalamataolives,halvedlengthwise

1 poundrigatoni

2½ ouncesPecorinoRomanocheese,grated(1¼cups)

1.Combinechicken,2tablespoonscherrypepperbrine,1tablespoonoil,and1teaspoonsaltinzipper-lockbagandrefrigerateforatleast30minutesorupto1hour.

2.Heat1tablespoonoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Stirinmushrooms,bellpeppers,and½teaspoonsaltandcookuntilbrowned,about8minutes.Transfervegetablestobowl;setaside.Addremaining1tablespoonoilandoniontonow-emptypotandcookovermediumheatuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirincherrypeppers,garlic,andoreganoandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addtomatoes,cream,and½teaspoonpepperandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomediumandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilsauceisverythick,10to15minutes.Stirinchickenandreservedvegetablesandsimmer,covered,untilchickeniscookedthrough,6to8minutes.Addolivesandremaining1tablespooncherrypepperbrine.Covertokeepwarm.

3.Meanwhile,bring4quartswatertoboilinlargepot.Addrigatoniand1tablespoonsaltandcook,stirringoften,untilaldente.Reserve½cupcookingwater,thendrainrigatoniandreturnittopot.AddsauceandPecorinoandtosstocombine,addingreservedcookingwaterasneededtoadjustconsistency.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandserve.

EATINGLOCAL UTICA,NY

AroundUtica,NewYork,theword“riggies”referstothecity’ssignaturedish,rigatoniinaspicy,creamytomatosaucewithonions,peppers,andtenderbonelesschicken.BrimmingwithhometownprideforthisItalian-Americanspecialty,localswilladvocateenthusiasticallyfortheirfavoriteversions,andanyonewithinearshotweighsin.Alongthemaindrag,GeneseeStreet,wequeriedawomaninagraybusinesssuit.“GEORGIO’Shasthebest,”sheresponded,“handsdown.”Amaninastarkwhitelabcoatstoppedshort.“Georgio’sisgood,”hesaid,“butCHESTERFIELDRESTAURANThastheoriginal.”Thatassertioncaughttheattention,orshouldwesaycontention,ofathirdguy,deliveringFedExpackages.“Nah....YoureallywanttogotoTEDDY’S,upinRome.TheywonRiggieFestafewyearsrunning.”RiggieFest?Youreadthatright.It’sanannualcompetitionamongrestaurantsandhomecooksthatfillstheUticaMemorialAuditorium.Thefesthadcomeandgonefortheyear,butwespent24carbo-loadedhoursrunningaroundUticatastingandtalkingaboutriggiesbeforedevelopingourownversion.

GEORGIO’SVILLAGECAFÉ60GeneseeSt.,NewHartford,NYCHESTERFIELDRESTAURANT1713BleekerSt.,Utica,NYTEDDY’SRESTAURANT851BlackRiverBlvd.,Rome,NY

UTICAGREENS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Bittergreenscanbeatoughsell,butthetender,meatyescaroleinthisclassicChickenRiggiessideisirresistible.Thewinningflavorcomesfromcapicola(alsocalledcoppa),anItaliandry-curedcoldcutmadefromporkshoulderandneckmeat;wefoundthatbothhotandsweetvarietiesputthisdishontherighttrack.Browningthemeatfirstestablishedasavorybaseofflavor.Afterbraisingtheescarolewiththebrownedmeat,onions,hotcherrypeppers,andgarlic,westirredinhomemadebreadcrumbstoabsorbexcessmoisture.GratedPecorinoRomanoalongwithanotherhelpingofbreadcrumbscontributedgreatcrunchytexturetocomplementthegreens’bold,heartyflavors.

1sliceheartywhitesandwichbread,torninto1-inchpieces

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

4ounces½-inch-thickcapicola,cutinto½-inchpieces

1onion,chopped

¼ cupjarredslicedhotcherrypeppers,choppedfine

2largeheads(2½pounds)escarole,trimmedandchopped

cupchickenbroth

UTICAGREENS

SERVES6

Youcanuseeitherhotorsweetcapicolahere.Whicheveryouchoose,buya½-inch-thickslice(oruseprosciutto)atthedelicounter;avoidtheprepackagedthinslices,asheartycubesofmeataretraditionalforthisdish.Donotusestore-boughtbreadcrumbshere.ThisdishistraditionallyservedwithChickenRiggies.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

1ouncePecorinoRomanocheese,grated(½cup)

1.Pulsebreadand1tablespoonoilinfoodprocessortocoarsecrumbs,about5pulses.ToastbreadcrumbsinDutchovenovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,untilgoldenbrown,about5minutes.Transfercrumbstobowl;setaside.Wipeoutpotwithpapertowels.Addremaining2tablespoonsoilandcapicolatonow-emptypotandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilcapicolabeginstobrown,3to5minutes.Stirinonionandcookuntilonionissoftenedandcapicolaisbrownedandcrispy,about5minutes.Addcherrypeppersandgarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.

2.Stirinhalfofescarole,broth,salt,andpepper.Coverandcookuntilgreensarebeginningtowilt,about1minute.Addremainingescarole,cover,andcookovermedium-lowheat,stirringoccasionally,untilstemsaretender,about10minutes.Offheat,stirinPecorinoand⅓cupreservedbreadcrumbs.Topwithremainingbreadcrumbsbeforeserving.

GREENSWITHGUSTO

UticaGreensaren’tanyoldpotofgreens.Theygettheirlayersofflavorfromthesekeyingredients.

CAPICOLA:Madefromtheshoulderandneckofapig,capicolaisseasonedwithwine,garlic,herbs,andspicesbeforeit’scuredandhungforseveralmonths.Theprocesscreatescomplexflavorsthatourtastersfound“mustardy”and“cheesy.”Buysweetorhotandtryitinsandwichesorcalzones.TheboysintheTVseriesTheSopranospronouncedit“gabagool.”Howeveryousayit,it’sdelicious.

ESCAROLE:Escarolehasabitter,grassyflavorthattakeswelltoassertiveseasoning.Itiscommonlyusedinsalads.Makesuretowashescarolewell(weuseasaladspinner),asthefeatheryleavestendtoholdalotofsoil.

SLICEDHOTCHERRYPEPPERS:Inthetestkitchen,we’rebigfansofthisconvenienceproduct.Weusethepickledpepperstoaddrobustflavor,heat,andtexturetodishes,butwealsooftenincludethebrineinsaucesandmarinades,aswedidwithourChickenRiggies,toaddbrightnessandpiquant,vinegarynotes.

CITYCHICKEN

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

InPennsylvaniaandfartherafield,folksknowthey’regettingpork(orveal)whentheyordercitychicken,sowedecidedtoembracethepork’sflavorforourmoderntakeonthisDepression-eraclassic.Weselectedabonelessbuttroastasourbase—itsidealfat-to-meatratiolentitselfwelltothefryingandbakingthisreciperequired.Arubofgarlicpowder,thyme,andcayennepepperontopofthestandardsaltandpepperseasoninggavethemeatgreatflavor.Afterwecubedandskeweredtheseasonedmeat,arollinflourandpankobreadcrumbscreatedaperfectlycrunchyoutercoating.FryinginaDutchovencontainedthesizzlinghotoilwhilethe“chicken”fried,andanhourintheovenmadetheporkdelectablytender.Whiletheskewerscooled,westirredtogetheracreamydillsaucefordipping.

westirredtogetheracreamydillsaucefordipping.

CITYCHICKEN

teaspoonssalt

teaspoonsgarlicpowder

1 teaspoonpepper

teaspoondriedthyme

teaspooncayennepepper

1(3-pound)bonelessporkbuttroast,trimmedandcutinto1-inchpieces

8(6-inch)bambooskewers

CITYCHICKEN

SERVES6TO8

Youwillneedeight6-inchbambooskewersforthisrecipe.Ifyoucan’tfindthem,trimlongeronesortheskeweredmeatwon’tfitinthepotforfrying.Porkbuttroastmaybelabeled“Bostonbutt.”Youcanmakethesauceandtrim,season,andskewerthemeatadayinadvance.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

½ cupall-purposeflour

2 largeeggs

2 tablespoonswater

cupspankobreadcrumbs

2 cupsvegetableoil

SOURCREAM–DILLSAUCE

1 cupsourcream

1 tablespoonmincedfreshdill

teaspoonslemonjuice

1garlicclove,minced

Saltandpepper

1.FORTHECITYCHICKEN:Combinesalt,garlicpowder,pepper,thyme,andcayenneinmediumbowl.Addporkandtosstocoatthoroughly.Threadporkontoeight6-inchbambooskewers(6to8piecesperskewer).(Skewerscanbepreparedupto24hoursinadvance.)2.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento325degrees.Placewirerackinsiderimmedbakingsheet.Placeflourinshallowdish.Whiskeggsandwatertogetherinsecondshallowdish.Placepankointhirdshallowdish.Workingwith1skeweratatime,dredgeinflour,dipinegg,thencoatwithpanko,pressingtoadhere.

3.HeatoilinDutchovenovermediumheatto350degrees.Workingwith4skewersatatime,fryfirstsideuntilgoldenbrown,about2minutes.Flipskewersandcontinuetofryuntilgoldenbrownonsecondside,about2minuteslonger.Transfertopreparedwirerack.Repeatwithremainingskewers.Transfertoovenandbakeuntilporkistender,about1hour.Placeskewersonplatterandletrestfor5to10minutes.

4.FORTHESOURCREAM–DILLSAUCE:Meanwhile,whiskallingredientstogetherinbowlandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Servesaucewithskewers.

PORKINDISGUISE

Citychickenmaysoundlikeasophisticatedchickendish,butinfact,it’sneitherparticularlyfancynormadewithchicken.Instead,porkorvealcutletsarethreadedontoskewersandmadetoresemblechickendrumsticks.Theskewersarebreaded,shallow-fried,thenbakedorbraisedforaboutanhour.CitychickencameaboutduringtheGreatDepression,whenchickenwasapriceycommodity,butit’spartofalong-standingtraditionofdisguisingfoodstolooklikesomethingelse.Inthemid-19thcentury,whensuppliesofflour,sugar,freshfruit,andspiceswerecutoffbyblockadeduringtheCivilWar,cleverSoutherncookscreatedmockapplepie,saidtosmellandtastelikerealapples,froma“smallbowlofcrackers”combinedwithsweetenerandtartaricacid(toreplacethelemonjuice)and,wesuspect,alotofimagination.Some70yearslater,hardtimesgavethepieareprise:DuringtheDepression,RitzCrackersfeaturedthereciperightonthebox.Mockapplepiemayhavefallenoutoffavor,butcitychickenisstillpopularinpartsofOhio,WestVirginia,andPennsylvania.Ofcourse,it’snolongerintendedtofooldiners:Citychickenmayhavebeenbornoutofnecessity,butitsurvivedbecauseit’sdelicious.

NEWENGLANDBARPIZZA

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Barpizza,aNewEnglandcreation,makestheperfectaccompanimenttoice-coldbeer(orthebeverageofyourchoice).Tore-createbarpizza’sthin,crisp-yet-tendercrust,crunchyraisededges,andbubbly,brownedcheeseathome,weusedoiledcakepansasastand-inforrimmedpizzapans.Toreproduceitstrademarkedgedcrust,wemadealipofdoughupthesidesofthepan.Forasimpleuncookedsauce,welookedtocanneddicedtomatoesforourbase.Weprocessedthetomatoeswitholiveoil,driedoregano,sugar,salt,pepper,andpepperflakesintoasmooth,tangysauceinasnap.Spreadingthesauceandcheeseovertheedgesofthedoughcreatedthecaramelized“laced”edgesthattheseNewEnglandpizzasareknownfor.Wefoundthatbakingthepizzasina500-degreeovenonthebottomrack

Wefoundthatbakingthepizzasina500-degreeovenonthebottomrackallowedthebottomstocrispupwhilethecheesemeltedandbrownedgradually.

1⅔ cups(8⅓ounces)all-purposeflour

1 tablespoonsugar

1teaspooninstantorrapid-riseyeast

cupwater

1½ teaspoonsextra-virginoliveoil¾

teaspoonsalt

1(14.5-ounce)candicedtomatoes

NEWENGLANDBARPIZZA

SERVES4

Cleanthefoodprocessorinbetweenmakingthedoughandthepizzasauce.Youwillhavesomesauceleftover;reserveitforanotheruse.Usesharpcheddarcheese,notextra-sharp(whichmakesthepizzastoogreasy).Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1teaspoonextra-virginoliveoil

teaspoonsugar

teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

TOPPING

4ouncessharpcheddarcheese,shredded(1cup)

4ounceswhole-milkmozzarellacheese,shredded(1cup)

1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

1.FORTHEDOUGH:Processflour,sugar,andyeastinfoodprocessoruntilcombined,about3seconds.Withprocessorrunning,slowlyaddwater;processdoughuntiljustcombinedandnodryflourremains,about10seconds.Letdoughstandfor10minutes.Addoilandsalttodoughandprocessuntildoughformssatiny,stickyballthatclearssidesofworkbowl,30to60seconds.

2.Transferdoughtolightlyoiledcounterandkneaduntilsmooth,about1minute.Shapedoughintotightballandplaceingreasedbowl.Coverwithplasticwrapandletriseatroomtemperatureuntilalmostdoubledinsize,2to2½hours.

3.FORTHESAUCE:Processallingredientsinclean,dryfoodprocessoruntilsmooth,about30seconds;setsauceaside.(Saucecanberefrigeratedforupto2daysorfrozenforupto1month.)4.FORTHETOPPING:Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento500degrees.Combinecheddarandmozzarellainbowl.Usingpastrybrush,greasebottomandsidesof2dark-colored9-inchroundcakepanswith1½teaspoonsoileach.

5.Transferdoughtolightlyflouredcounter,divideinhalf,andshapeintoballs.Gentlyflatten1doughballinto6-inchdiskusingyourfingertips.Usingrollingpin,rolldiskinto10-inchround.Transferdoughtopreparedpanandpressintocorners,forcing¼-inchlipofdoughupsidesofpan.Repeatwithremainingdoughball.

6.Spread⅓cupsauceinthinlayeroverentiresurfaceof1dough.Usingpastrybrush,brushsauceoverlipofdough.Sprinkle1cupcheesemixtureevenlyoverpizza,includinglip.Repeatwithremainingdough,⅓cupsauce,andremaining1cupcheesemixture.

7.Bakeuntilcrustisbrownedandcheeseisbubblyandbeginningtobrown,about12minutes,switchingandrotatingpanshalfwaythroughbaking.Toremovepizzasfrompans,runoffsetspatulaalongtopedgeofpizzacrust.Onceloosened,slidespatulaunderneathpizzaandslidepizzaontowirerack.Letcoolfor5minutes.Sliceandserve.

EATINGLOCAL RANDOLPH,MA

Toresearchourrecipeforbarpizza,wevisitedtheLYNWOODCAFÉinRandolph,Massachusetts,housedinastucco-and-clapboardbuildingmarkedbyneonBudLightsigns.Thedecorinsidehasn’tchangedsincethe1960s;woodenpaneling,woodenbooths,andRedSoxposterslinethewalls.Theestablishmenthasbeenaroundsincethemid-1930s,StephenCampanella,manageroftheLynwood,toldus.“In1935,rightafterProhibition,thisplacewasturnedfromafeedstoreintoabar.Mygreat-grandfatherAlfondpurchasedtheplacein1949,andthat’swhenwestartedservingpizzaandoperatingthefullbar.”Havingtastedtheirpizza,wehopetheystayopenfordecadestocome.

LYNWOODCAFÉ320CenterSt.,Randolph,MA

CORNEDBEEFANDCABBAGE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

WewantedtomakethistraditionalNewEnglandspinonSt.Patrick’sDaydinneramealthatcanbeeaten—andthoroughlyenjoyed—anydayoftheyear.Startingwiththecornedbeef,webypassedboilingforaslowbraiseintheovenwithchickenbroth,vegetables,andspices.Thisturnedoutmoistmeat,madeevenbetterwhenweletitsoakup1cupofthebraisingliquidasitrested.Movingtothestovetop,wesimmeredthepotatoesinthecookingliquidfor10minutesbeforeaddingtheremainingvegetablestothepot,ensuringthattheyallfinishedcookingtogetherwithoutturningmushy.Forabitofsweetness,weincludedhalvedcarrots,andbutteraddedrichnessandsilkiness.Afteronly30minutes,ourvegetablesemergedflavorfulandperfectlycooked,nicelycomplementingourcornedbeef.

perfectlycooked,nicelycomplementingourcornedbeef.

1(4-to5-pound)cornedbeefbrisketroast,rinsed,fattrimmedto¼inch

4 cupschickenbroth

4 cupswater

12carrots,peeled(3chopped,9halvedcrosswise)

2celeryribs,chopped

1onion,peeledandquartered

3 bayleaves

tablespoonblackpeppercorns

CORNEDBEEFANDCABBAGE

SERVES6TO8

Useflat-cutcornedbeefbrisket,notpoint-cut;it’smoreuniforminshapeandthuswillcookmoreevenly.Usesmallredpotatoesmeasuring1to2inchesindiameter.Whenslicingthecabbage,leavethecoreintactorthecabbagewillfallapartduringcooking.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 tablespoonmincedfreshthyme

1 teaspoonwholeallspice

3 tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

poundssmallredpotatoes

1headgreencabbage(2pounds),cutinto8(2-inch)wedges

Pepper

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Combinebeef,broth,water,choppedcarrots,celery,onion,bayleaves,peppercorns,thyme,andallspiceinDutchoven.Coverandbakeuntilforkslipseasilyinandoutofmeat,4½to5hours.

2.Transfermeatto13by9-inchbakingdish.Straincookingliquidthroughfine-meshstrainerintolargebowl,discardsolids,andskimfatfromliquid.Pour1cupcookingliquidovermeat.Coverdishtightlywithaluminumfoilandletrestfor30minutes.

3.Meanwhile,returnremainingcookingliquidtoDutchoven,addbutter,andbringtosimmerovermedium-highheat.Addpotatoesandsimmeruntiltheybegintosoften,about10minutes.Addcarrothalvesandcabbage,cover,andcookuntiltender,10to15minutes.Transfervegetablestoservingplatterandseasonwithpeppertotaste.

4.Transferbeeftocarvingboardandsliceagainstgraininto¼-inch-thickslices.Servewithvegetables.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Preparecornedbeefthroughstep2.Refrigeratemoistenedbeefandcookingliquidseparatelyforupto24hours.

Toserve,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Transfermeattocarvingboard;sliceagainstgraininto¼-inch-thickslicesandreturntobakingdish.Coverdishtightlywithfoilandbakeuntilmeatisheatedthrough,about25minutes.Whilemeatisheating,proceedwithstep3.

CUTTINGCABBAGE

Tokeepcabbagewedgestogether,quarterthecabbage,takingcaretocutdirectlythroughthecore.Cuteachquarterinhalffor8(2-inch)wedges.

EASYNEWENGLANDCLAMCHOWDER

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Homemadeclamchowderisoftenoneoftwothings:time-consumingandfantasticorquickandforgettable.Wewantedtofindamiddleground,eliminatinglaboriousprepworkwithoutsacrificingflavor.Westartedbysautéingstripsofbacon,savingtheslicesforgarnishingandleavingthefatinthepanforourflavorbase.Toputthespotlightontheclams,wecreatedamakeshiftstockofclamjuiceandwater.Weskippedsteamingandshuckingbyturningtopreshuckedchoppedclams—theseimpartedfreshclamflavorthatrelegatedthecannedalternativetoourno-flylist.Wethenturnedourfocustothickeningthebroth.Insteadofmutingtherichandbrinyflavorwithflour,weoptedforcrushedsaltinesandmashedpotatoesforaddedbody.Ourchowderwasthick,rich,andburstingwithclamflavor

foraddedbody.Ourchowderwasthick,rich,andburstingwithclamflavorinunderanhour.Crispy,flakyCommonCrackerspairperfectlywiththischowderandcanevenbeusedinplaceofthestore-boughtsaltinesusedtothickenit.

4slicesbacon,choppedfine

1onion,choppedfine

3(8-ounce)bottlesclamjuice

2 cupswater

1½ poundsrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces

20saltines,crushed

1 teaspoonmincedfreshthyme

1 bayleaf

2poundschoppedclams,rinsed,drained,andchoppedfine

EASYNEWENGLANDCLAMCHOWDER

SERVES6

Ifyoubuyfrozenclams,thawthembeforeusing.YoucansubstitutenineCommonCrackersforthesaltines.

1 cupheavycream

Saltandpepper

1.Cookbaconinlargesaucepanovermediumheatuntilcrisp,6to8minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowel–linedplate.Pouroffallbut1tablespoonfatfromsaucepan.Addonionandcookovermediumheatuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirinclamjuice,water,potatoes,saltines,thyme,andbayleafandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomediumandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilpotatoesaretender,about20minutes.

2.Usingslottedspoon,transfer½cuppotatoestobowlandmashwithpotatomasheruntilsmooth.Returnmashedpotatoestopot.Reduceheattolow.Stirclamsintopotandsimmeruntilcookedthrough,3to5minutes.Offheat,stirincream.Discardbayleaf,andseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Sprinklewithreservedbacon.Serve.

2½ cups(12½ounces)all-purposeflour

2 teaspoonsbakingpowder

teaspoonssalt

3tablespoonsvegetableshortening,cutinto½-inchpiecesandchilled,plus2tablespoonsmeltedandcooled

1cupbeer,chilled

COMMONCRACKERS

MAKESABOUT36

Usemildlager,suchasBudweiser,tomakethisrecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Pulseflour,bakingpowder,andsaltinfoodprocessoruntilcombined,about5pulses.Addchilledshorteningandpulseuntiljustcombined,about5pulses.

2.Transferflourmixturetolargebowl.Stirinbeeruntilcombined.Turndoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneadbrieflyuntildoughcomestogether.Rolldoughinto10by7-inchrectangle.Brushdoughwithmeltedshortening,thenfoldasyouwouldaletter:Workingfromshortedge,folddoughoveritself,leaving⅓ofdoughuncovered.Foldoppositeuncoveredshortedgeoverdough.Rollfoldeddoughinto18by7-inchrectangle,about¼inchthick.

3.Using2-inchbiscuitcutterdippedinflour,cutoutroundsandarrangeonpreparedrack.Gatherremainingdoughandrollinto¼-inch-thickcircle.Cutroundsfromdoughandtransfertorack.Prickdoughroundstwiceusingfork.

4.Bakeuntillightgoldenbrownandfirm,50to55minutes.Letcrackerscoolcompletely,about1hour.Serve.(Crackerscanbestoredinclosedpaperbagforupto3days.)

RHODEISLANDREDCLAMCHOWDER

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Thislesser-knowntakeonNewEngland’sfavoritesoupgetsitsboldhuefromtomatoes,andwewantedtomakesureourredchowderboastedplentyoftomatoflavortobalanceoutthebrinyclams.Westartedbysteamingfreshcherrystones,removingtheclamsastheyopenedtoensureevencooking.Wereservedsomeoftheclamsteamingliquidforourbroth,dilutingthesaltyliquidwithbottledclamjuiceforgreatbalancedflavor.Cannedwholetomatoesandtomatopasteaddedbrighttomatotasteandcreamytexturetothebroth.CubedYukonGoldpotatoestookonthechowder’sflavorandmaintainedtheirstructure,ensuringthatourchowderhadachunkyelementtocontrastwiththecreamybase.Toaddafinalboostofflavor,wesimmeredthechowderwithslicesofbaconandabayleaf,

offlavor,wesimmeredthechowderwithslicesofbaconandabayleaf,removingbothrightbeforeserving.

3 cupswater

6poundsmediumhard-shellclams,suchascherrystones,scrubbed

1(28-ounce)canwholetomatoes,drainedwithjuicereserved

1mediumonion,minced

1 tablespoontomatopaste

1½ poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces

RHODEISLANDREDCLAMCHOWDER

SERVES6

Besuretousefreshclamsforthissoup.Redclamchowderisclassicallyservedwithoystercrackers;however,italsotastesgreatwithGarlicToasts.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 slicesbacon

1 bayleaf

2 teaspoonsdrysherry

Saltandpepper

1.BringwatertoboilinlargeDutchoven.Addclams,cover,andcookfor5minutes.Stirclamsthoroughly,cover,andcontinuetocookuntiltheyjustbegintoopen,2to5minutes.Asclamsopen,transfertolargebowlandletcoolslightly.Discardanyunopenedclams.

2.Measureoutandreserve2cupsclamsteamingliquid,avoidinganygrittysedimentthatsettledonbottomofpot.Removeclammeatfromshellsandchopcoarse.

3.IncleanDutchoven,meltbutterovermediumheat.Addtomatoes,onion,andtomatopasteandcookuntildryandbeginningtobrown,11to13minutes.Stiringarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Stirinbottledclamjuiceandreservedclamsteamingliquid,scrapingupanybrownedbits.

4.Workinginbatches,pureesoupuntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Returnsouptocleanpot.Stirinpotatoes,bacon,andbayleafandbringtoboil.Reduceheattogentlesimmerandcookuntilpotatoesaretender,20to25minutes.

5.Offheat,removebaconanddiscardbayleaf.Stirinparsleyandsherryandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Stirinchoppedclams,cover,andletstanduntilwarmedthrough,about1minute.Serve.

8(1-inch-thick)slicesrusticbread

1largegarlicclove,peeled

3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Saltandpepper

GARLICTOASTS

MAKES8SLICES

Besuretouseahigh-qualitycrustybread,suchasabaguette;donotuseslicedsandwichbread.

Positionovenrack6inchesfrombroilerelementandheatbroiler.Spreadbreadinrimmedbakingsheetandbroiluntilgoldenbrownonbothsides,about2minutesperside.Brieflyrub1sideofeachtoastwithgarlic.Drizzletoastswithoil,seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste,andserve.

BRINGINGBACKCHOWDER

WhileclamchowderaficionadosdebatetherelativemeritsofNewEnglandversusManhattan-style,there’salittle-knownthirdchowderintheregion,onethatwefindespeciallyintriguing:RhodeIslandredclamchowder.Consistingofchoppedfreshclams,tenderchunksofpotato,andacreamy-tasting,rich-flavoredtomatoandclambroth,thisclamchowderisaminimalistexpressionofwheretheseameetstheland.OurresearchintotheoriginsofthischowderbroughtustothesmallcoastalRhodeIslandtownofWarwick.Itwasthere,intheRockyPointShoreDinnerHall(publicizedasthe“world’slargestshoredinnerhall”),thatgenerationsofsun-bakedseasidevisitorswerefirstintroducedtothisuniquebowlofsoup.Thedinnerhallandadjacentamusementparkclosedafewyearsago,butwithourrecipeyoucanenjoythisclassicathome.

NEWENGLANDFISHCHOWDER

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

WhenNewEnglandfishermenfirststartedmakingfishchowdersinthe18thcentury,theykeptitsimple:Thecatchoftheday(usuallycodorhaddock)wastossedintoapotwithwaterandsaltpork,andthechowderwasthickenedwithhardtack.Backondryland,wehopedtostirtogetherachowderthathonoredthesoup’ssimpleroots,showcasingmoist,tendermorselsoffishinadelicate,clean-tastingbroth.Tocapturesaltpork’ssmokyflavor,wecookedtwolargechunksinbutterwithonions,thyme,salt,andabayleaf.Forgoingfussy,from-scratchfishstock,webuiltanultraquickbasewithjustthefishandwater.Weremovedthefilletsoncetheyturnedopaquetopreventovercookingandthenaddedthepotatoes.Wholemilkgavethebrothjustenoughrichness,andatablespoonof

Wholemilkgavethebrothjustenoughrichness,andatablespoonofcornstarchpreventedcurdling.Wediscardedthesaltporkandbayleafafterstirringinthewaitingfillets.Ourlight,delicatebrothwasstuddedwithflavorfulpotatoesandperfectlyhighlightedthetendercod.Thoughnotstirreduponthedeckofafishingvessel,ourchowdermorethanpaidhomagetoitsNewEnglandpedigree.

2onions,cutinto½-inchdice

4ouncessaltpork,rindremoved,rinsedandcutinto2pieces

teaspoonsmincedfreshthyme

Saltandpepper

1 bayleaf

5 cupswater

2poundsskinlesscodfillets,slicedcrosswiseinto6equalpieces

1½ poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchdice

NEWENGLANDFISHCHOWDER

SERVES6TO8

Haddockorotherflakywhitefishmaybesubstitutedforthecod.Garnishthechowderwithmincedfreshchives,crispbaconbits,oroystercrackers.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 cupswholemilk

1 tablespooncornstarch

1.MeltbutterinDutchovenovermediumheat.Addonions,saltpork,thyme,¾teaspoonsalt,andbayleaf;cook,stirringoccasionally,untilonionsaresoftenedbutnotbrowned,3to5minutes.Addwaterandbringtosimmer.Removepotfromheat,gentlyplacecodfilletsinwater,cover,andletfishstanduntilopaqueandnearlycookedthrough,about5minutes.Usingmetalspatula,transfercodtobowl.

2.Returnpottomedium-highheat,addpotatoes,andbringtosimmer.Cookuntilpotatoesaretenderandbeginningtobreakapart,about20minutes.

3.Meanwhile,whiskmilk,cornstarch,and½teaspoonpeppertogetherinbowl.Stirmilkmixtureintochowderandreturntosimmer.Returnfishandanyaccumulatedjuicestopot.Removepotfromheat,cover,andletstandfor5minutes.Removeanddiscardsaltporkandbayleaf.Stirgentlywithwoodenspoontobreakfishintolargepieces.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serveimmediately.

WHAT,EXACTLY,ISSALTPORK?

Manychowder,stew,soup,andbakedbeanrecipescallforsaltpork,whichismadefromthesamecutsasbacon:thesidesandbellyofthepig.Saltporkissaltcured(ineitherdrysaltorasaltbrine),butit’snotsmoked,whilebaconis.Anotherdifference?It’sfattierthanbacon.Welikesaltporkinseveralofourstewsandfrequentlyuseitsplentifulrenderedfattobrownandflavorthemeatandvegetables.Ifyoucan’tfindsaltpork,usebacon,butrememberthatitwilladdasmokyundertone.Don’tconfusesaltporkwithfatback,whichisunsaltedanduncuredandcomesfromthelayeroffatrunningalongthepig’sback.Lookingforaproject?Usefatbacktomakeyourownlardandcracklings(andpleaseinviteusovertosnackonthelatter).Youcanfindbothsaltporkandfatbackinthemeatsectionofthesupermarket,usuallynexttopackagedhotdogs.

CLASSICCORNCHOWDER

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ThereisnoshortageofgoodcornchowdersbeingstirredtogetherinNewEnglandkitchens,butwewantedtodeliveralloftheirbestqualities—velvetytexture,strongcornflavor,andplumpkernels—inonesilver-bulletrecipe.Aimingforultimatecornflavor,wesetouttoincludeourkeyingredientineverystep,fromkerneltocob.Forasweetandsmokystartingplace,wesautéedchoppedbacontorenderitsfatandkeptthecrispypiecestostirinattheend.Cookingthefreshkernelsandonioninthefatcreatedatoasty,caramelizedbaseofflavor.Cannedcornpureedwithchickenbrothservedasalushthickenerthatboostedthechowder’scornflavors.Last,wedroppedourshuckedcobsintothesimmeringpotforasubtlebutsignificantfinaldoseofcorntaste,perfectlyfinishingoffourtop-to-bottomcorn

finaldoseofcorntaste,perfectlyfinishingoffourtop-to-bottomcornchowder.Asirresistibleasitwasonitsown,italsolentitselfperfectlytotheadditionofsomeboldingredientslikeandouillesausageandbellpepperforaspicy,savory,andsaltykick.

6 earscorn

2(15-ounce)canswholekernelcorn,drained

5 cupschickenbroth

1onion,chopped

Saltandpepper

1poundredpotatoes,scrubbedandcutinto½-inchdice

1 cupheavycream

scallions,slicedthin

CLASSICCORNCHOWDER

SERVES6TO8

Besuretosavethecobsforthechowder.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Cutkernelsfromearsofcornbycuttingcobinhalfcrosswise,thenstandingeachhalfonitsflat,cutend.Usingchef’sknife,cutkernelsoffear,1sideatatime.Reservekernelsandcobsseparately.Pureecannedcornand2cupsbrothinblenderuntilsmooth.

2.CookbaconinDutchovenovermediumheatuntilcrisp,about8minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowel–linedplateandreserve.Cookonion,cornkernels,½teaspoonsalt,and¼teaspoonpepperinbaconfatuntilvegetablesaresoftenedandgoldenbrown,6to8minutes.

3.Addpotatoes,cornpuree,remaining3cupsbroth,andreservedcorncobstoDutchovenandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmeruntilpotatoesaretender,about15minutes.Discardcobsandstirincream,scallions,andreservedbacon.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.(Soupcanberefrigeratedinairtightcontainerforupto3days.)

CORNCHOWDERWITHANDOUILLEANDBELLPEPPERSubstitute4ouncesfinelychoppedandouillesausageand1teaspoonvegetableoilforbaconandadd1celeryrib,choppedfine,and1redbellpepper,seededandchoppedfine,alongwithonioninstep2.

CORNCHOWDERWITHCHORIZOANDCHILESSubstitute4ouncesfinelychoppedchorizosausageand1teaspoonvegetableoilforbaconand¼cupchoppedfreshcilantroforscallions.Instep2,add1to2jalapeñochiles,seededandminced,and½teaspoongroundcuminalongwithonion.

CORNCHOWDERWITHSWEETPOTATOESANDCAYENNESubstitute1poundsweetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchdice,forredpotatoes.Instep3,stirin1tablespoonmaplesyrupand¼teaspooncayennepepperalongwithcream.

CORNCHOWDERWITHPROSCIUTTOANDSAGESubstitute4ouncesfinelychoppeddeliprosciuttoand1teaspoonvegetableoilforbaconand2tablespoonsmincedfreshsageforscallions.

CLEANSHAVE

Cuttingkernelsfromanearofcorncanbeanawkwardtask.Here’showtosteadythecobandkeepthekernelsfromflyingaroundthekitchen,allwhilemaneuveringasharpknife.

Cutcobinhalfcrosswise,thenstandeachhalfonitsflat,cutend.Usingchef’sknife,cutkernelsoffear,1sideatatime.

JOEBOOKERSTEW

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSJoeBookerthemanmayforeverremainamystery,butweweredeterminedtoperfectthestewthatbearshisnameandwasafavoriteamongMaine’sicefishermenandloggers.Unlikemanybeefstews,thisoneismeanttopossessalighterbroth,bepackedwithvegetables,andboasttenderdumplings.Tokeepourbasebothdelicateandflavorful,westartedbymicrowavingthesaltporkandthenrinsingitofexcesssalt.ObservingthetenetsofYankeethrift,weusedtherenderedfattobrownthebeefandtocookthechoppedonions.Wewantedourbrothtobelightbutstillrobust,sowesimmeredequalpartswaterandbeefbrothtogether.Wekeptthedumplingssimple,addingchoppedparsleyforflavorandbakingpowderformoreleaveningpower.Combiningthedryingredientswithmilkandmeltedbutterproducedrich,tenderdumplings,nokneadingrequired.Withaone-potdinnerthistastyonthetable,weweresureJoeBooker—whoeverhewas—wouldbeproud.

8ouncessaltpork,quartered

3poundsbonelessbeefchuck,cutinto1-inchchunks

Pepper

2onions,chopped

2tablespoonsall-purposeflour

4 cupsbeefbroth

4 cupswater

JOEBOOKERSTEW

SERVES6TO8

Youcansubstitutepeeled,choppedturniporparsnipfortherutabaga.UseaDutchovenwithatleasta6-quartcapacity.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 teaspoonsmincedfreshthyme

1½ poundsredpotatoes,scrubbedandcutinto¾-inchchunks1½ poundsrutabaga,peeledandcutinto¾-inchchunks

1poundcarrots,peeledandcutinto¾-inchchunks

DUMPLINGS

2cups(10ounces)all-purposeflour

cupmincedfreshparsley

Saltandpepper

1 cupmilk

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpieces

1.FORTHESTEW:Placesaltporkinbowlandmicrowaveuntilfatrendersandporkisgolden,5to8minutes.Pourofffat,reserving2tablespoons(ifyouhaveless,supplementwithvegetableoil).Whenporkiscoolenoughtohandle,rinseunderrunningwatertoremoveexcesssalt.Setaside.

2.Patbeefdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithpepper.Heat2teaspoonsreservedporkfatinlargeDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Cookhalfofbeefuntilwellbrownedallover,about8minutes.Transfertobowlandrepeatwith2teaspoonsporkfatandremainingbeef.Addremaining2teaspoonsporkfatandonionstonow-emptypotandcookuntilgoldenbrown,about5minutes.Stirinflourandcookuntillightlybrowned,about1minute.

3.Returnbeefandanyaccumulatedjuicestopot.Stirinbroth,water,thyme,andrinsedsaltporkandbringtoboil.Reduceheattolowandsimmer,covered,untilmeatisnearlytender,about1hour.Removeanddiscardsaltpork.Addpotatoes,rutabaga,andcarrotstopotandcontinuetosimmer,covered,untilvegetablesarejusttender,20to30minutes.

4.FORTHEDUMPLINGS:Whenvegetablesarenearlytender,combineflour,bakingpowder,parsley,1teaspoonsalt,and1teaspoonpepperinlargebowl.Combinemilkandbutterinliquidmeasuringcupandmicrowave,stirringonceortwice,untilbuttermelts,about1minute.Stirwarmmilkmixtureintoflourmixtureuntilincorporated.

5.Oncevegetablesaretender,usesmallicecreamscoopor2largespoonstodropgolfball–sizedumplings(about2tablespoons)ontostewabout¼inchapart(youshouldhaveabout15dumplings).Simmergently,covered,untildumplingshavedoubledinsizeandtoothpickinsertedincentercomesoutclean,18to22minutes.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Stewcanbemadethroughstep3,covered,andrefrigeratedforupto3days.Toserve,bringstewtosimmerandproceedwithstep4.

SCOOP-AND-DROPDUMPLINGS

Noneedtoroll,cut,orknead.Ourdumplingscometogetherinminutes.

1.Aftercombiningflour,bakingpowder,andseasonings,stirinmixtureofmilkandmeltedbutter.

2.Usesmallicecreamscoop(or2largespoons)togentlydropdumplingsontosimmeringstewabout¼inchapart.

PITTSBURGHWEDDINGSOUP

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

BeforebringingthiswesternPennsylvaniafavorite(alsocalledItalianweddingsoup)hometomeetthein-laws,itneededsomestreamlining.Tostart,wekickedupthebrothbymixinggarlicandredpepperflakescookedinoliveoilintostore-boughtchickenbroth.Weturnedtomeatloafmix(atastycombinationofbeef,pork,andveal)forourmeatballs.Poachingtheminthebrothsavedtimeandaddedextraflavortothebase.Choppedkalehelditsowninthehotliquid,addinggreattextureandflavorwithoutlosingitsheartycrunch,andorzoprovedtherightsizeforspooningupwiththemeatballsandgreens.HavingaddedsomeextraParmesanandadrizzleofextra-virginoliveoilrightbeforeserving,wewereinweddedbliss.

MEATBALLS

2slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,tornintopieces

cupmilk

1 largeeggyolk

1ounceParmesancheese,grated(½cup)

3 tablespoonschoppedfreshparsley

teaspoonsalt

PITTSBURGHWEDDINGSOUP

SERVES6TO8

Ifmeatloafmixisn’tavailable,substitute1poundof85percentleangroundbeef.Usingthelargeendofamelonballerguaranteesuniformmeatballsthatcookevenly.ServewithextraParmesancheeseandadrizzleofextra-virginoliveoil.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

½ teaspoonpepper

1 poundmeatloafmix

1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

3 quartschickenbroth

1largeheadkaleorSwisschard,stemmed,leaveschopped

1 cuporzo

tablespoonschoppedfreshparsley

Saltandpepper

1.FORTHEMEATBALLS:Usingpotatomasher,mashbreadandmilktogetherinlargebowluntilsmooth.Addremainingingredients,exceptmeatloafmix,andmashtocombine.Addmeatloafmixandkneadbyhanduntilwellcombined.Formmixtureinto1-inchmeatballs(youshouldhaveabout55meatballs)andarrangeinrimmedbakingsheet.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilfirm,atleast30minutes.(Meatballscanbemadeupto24hoursinadvance.)2.FORTHESOUP:HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Cookgarlicandpepperflakesuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addbrothandbringtoboil.Stirinkaleandsimmeruntilsoftened,10to15minutes.Stirinmeatballsandpasta,reduceheattomedium,andsimmeruntilmeatballsarecookedthroughandpastaistender,about10minutes.Stirinparsleyandsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.(Leftoversoupcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

PREPPINGKALE

1A.Holdleafatbaseofstemanduseknifetoslashleafyportionfromeithersideoftoughstem.

1B.Alternatively,foldeachleafinhalfandcutalongedgeofribtoremovethickestpartofribandstem.

2.Afterseparatingleaves,stackseveralandeithercutintostripsorrollpileintocigarshapeandcoarselychop.

3.Fillsaladspinnerbowlwithcoolwater,addcutgreens,andgentlyswishthemaround.Letgritsettletobottomofbowl,thenliftgreensoutanddrainwater.Repeatuntilgreensnolongerreleasedirt.

WALDORFSALAD

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Tolivenupthisclassicsaladwhilestillpayinghomagetotheoriginal,westartedwiththestandardingredientsfirsttossedtogetheratNewYork’sposhWaldorfHotel:apples,celery,andmayonnaise.First,webalancedcontrastingflavors,choppingthreesweetapples(GalaorBraeburn)alongsidethreetartGrannySmiths,keepingtheskinonforcolor.Toastingthewalnutsenhancedtheirflavor,andgoldenraisins,plumpedinalittlewater,addedburstsofsweetnesstothemix.Wewhiskedcidervinegarintomayonnaiseforourdressing,lighteninganotherwisegloppymayocoatingandreinforcingthecrispappletaste.Aspoonfulofhoneyhelpedunitetheflavorsoncetheingredientsweretossedtogether.Withthiswinningcombinationinplace,weplayedwithsomeotherbrightflavorcombinations

combinationinplace,weplayedwithsomeotherbrightflavorcombinations—andifyouaskus,allprovedworthyofaplaceontheWaldorfmenu.

cupgoldenraisins

cupwater

cupmayonnaise

3 tablespoonscidervinegar

1 tablespoonhoney

3GrannySmithapples,coredandcutinto½-inchpieces

3GalaorBraeburnapples,coredandcutinto½-inchpieces

3celeryribs,choppedfine

WALDORFSALAD

SERVES4TO6

Toastthewalnutsinadryskilletovermediumheat,stirringfrequently,untillightlybrownedandfragrant,about5minutes.Youcanusereduced-fatmayonnaisehere,andregularraisinswillworkinplaceofthegoldenraisins.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

¾ cuptoastedwalnuts,chopped

Saltandpepper

1.Combineraisinsandwaterinbowl.Wraptightlywithplasticwrapandmicrowaveuntilwaterbeginstoboil,about1minute.Letstanduntilraisinsaresoftandliquidhasbeenabsorbed,about5minutes.

2.Whiskmayonnaise,vinegar,andhoneytogetherinlargebowl.Addapples,celery,walnuts,andplumpedraisinstobowlandtossuntilwellcoated.Refrigerate,covered,for30minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.(Saladcanbestoredinairtightcontainerforupto2days.)

WALDORFSALADWITHDRIEDCHERRIESANDPECANSSubstitute¾cupdriedcherriesforraisinsand¾cupchoppedpecansforwalnuts.

WALDORFSALADWITHREDGRAPESANDALMONDSOmitstep1.Substitute1cupseedlessredgrapes,halved,forplumpedraisinsand¾cupslicedalmondsforwalnuts.

CURRIEDWALDORFSALADWITHGREENGRAPESANDPEANUTSOmitstep1.Instep2,whisk2tablespoonspeanutbutterand1teaspooncurrypowderintomayonnaisemixtureandsubstitute1cupseedlessgreengrapes,halved,forplumpedraisinsand¾cupdry-roastedpeanutsforwalnuts.

TOASTINGNUTS

Totoastasmallamount(lessthan1cup)ofnuts,putthemindryskilletovermediumheat.Shakeskilletoccasionallytopreventscorchingandtoastuntillightlybrownedandfragrant,3to8minutes.Totoastalargerquantity,spreadnutsinsinglelayeronrimmedbakingsheetandtoastin350-degreeoven.Topromoteeventoasting,shakebakingsheeteveryfewminutes,andtoastuntillightlybrownedandfragrant,5to10minutes.

CIDER-GLAZEDROOTVEGETABLES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSLikefootballandfoliage,appleciderandheartyrootvegetablesareamongtheharbingersofautumninNewEngland.Tocapturethosedistinctfallflavorsinthissidedish,wefocusedonthevegetables.Choppingcarrotsintosmallerpiecesthantheparsnipsandturnipsensuredthatallthreecookedevenlyinthesameamountoftime.Tocoaxmoreflavoroutofthem,wesautéedthevegetablesinbutteruntilbrownedandnicelycaramelized.Thoughcideraloneofferedniceappleflavor,hardcidercreatedacrisp,cleaner-tastingglaze;afewtablespoonsofsugartampeddownanyoff-puttingtartness.Forabrightdoseofenhancedappleflavor,westirredinadicedGrannySmithandsomecidervinegar.Asafinishingtouch,choppedfreshtarragoncontributedafreshherbalnote.

touch,choppedfreshtarragoncontributedafreshherbalnote.

1poundcarrots,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces

12ouncesparsnips,peeledandcutinto¾-inchpieces

12ouncesturnips,peeledandcutinto¾-inchpieces

3shallots,peeledandhalved

cupshardcider

3 tablespoonssugar

Saltandpepper

GrannySmithapple,coredandcutinto½-inchpieces

CIDER-GLAZEDROOTVEGETABLES

SERVES8

Ifyouprefertouseanequalamountofnonalcoholicsparklingorregularcider,reducethesugarto1tablespoon.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

2 tablespoonschoppedfreshtarragon

2 teaspoonscidervinegar

1.Melt1tablespoonbutterin12-inchskilletovermedium-highheat.Addcarrots,parsnips,turnips,andshallotsandcookuntillightlybrowned,about5minutes.Addcider,sugar,1½teaspoonssalt,andremaining3tablespoonsbutterandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomedium-low,cover,andcookuntilvegetablesarejusttender,7to10minutes,stirringoccasionally.

2.Uncover,increaseheattomedium,andcookuntilvegetablesarefullytender,about13minutes,stirringoccasionally.Stirinappleandcontinuetocookuntilciderissyrupyandappleisjusttender,about2minuteslonger.Offheat,stirintarragonandvinegar.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Transfertoservingdishandpouranyremainingglazeovervegetables.Serve.

CIDER-GLAZEDROOTVEGETABLESWITHPOMEGRANATEANDCILANTROSubstitutechoppedfreshcilantrofortarragonandadd¼cuppomegranateseedsalongwithcilantroandvinegar.

THEHARDSTUFF

Mostofusassociateciderwiththeunfilteredapplejuicethatappearsinsupermarketseveryfall,butbeforeProhibitiontheword“cider”meantwhatweknowtodayas“hardcider,”analcoholicdrinkmadefromfermentedapplejuice.HardciderwasoncethemostpopularbeverageinAmerica—infact,colonialsettlers(evenchildren)drankciderinplaceofwaterbecausepublicwellswereconsideredunsanitary.Butcider’spopularitysharplydeclinedasimmigrantsbroughtoverbeerfromEurope,andbytheearly1900s,hardciderhadallbutdisappeared.Butafterthiscentury-longdryspell,ciderishavingarevival—saleshavebeengrowingbymorethan50percentayear.

PREPPINGTURNIPS

Thelong,slendershapeofcarrotsandparsnipsmakesforsimpleprepping.Turnipsrequireafewextrasteps:

1.Trimtopandbottomofturnipandpeeloffouterskin.Sliceturnipinto¾-inch-thickplanks.

2.Sliceplanksinto¾-inch-widepieces.

3.Cutpiecesinto¾-inchcubes.

QUICKERBOSTONBAKEDBEANS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Thesweet,smokyflavorofBostonbakedbeansishardtotop,butfewhomecooksarewillingtodevoteafulldayinthekitchentomakingahumblesidedishthatwillbescarfeddowninmereminutes.Shootingforauthenticbeansinunder3hours,weturnedtobakingsodatospeedupthebeans’cookingtime.Thisadditiontriggeredrapidsoftening,andafteronly20minutesonthestove,ourbeanswerereadytobake.Tocreateaslow-cooked,salty-sweettaste,webolsteredmolasseswithdarkbrownsugarandthenuppedtheflavorwithcidervinegar,Worcestershire,andDijonmustard.Choppingandbrowningthesaltporkrenderedsomeofitsfatandmadeitanedibleadditiontothebeans(ratherthanaflavorboosterfishedoutbeforeserving).Wemovedourcoveredpottotheoventobakefor1½

outbeforeserving).Wemovedourcoveredpottotheoventobakefor1½hoursfollowedby30minutesuncovered,concentratingtheliquid.Ourbeansemergedperfectlytender,andafinalstirofextramolassesandmustardservedtothickenandenrichthesauce.

1pound(2½cups)driednavybeans,pickedoverandrinsed

1 tablespoonbakingsoda

6ouncessaltpork,rindremoved,cutinto¼-inchpieces

1onion,choppedfine

5 tablespoonspackeddarkbrownsugar

5 tablespoonsmolasses

2 tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce

4 teaspoonsDijonmustard

QUICKERBOSTONBAKEDBEANS

SERVES6TO8

Liquidsevaporatefasterintheoveninheavycast-ironDutchovensthaninlighterpots.Ifyou’reusingacast-ironpot,increasethewaterinstep2to4½cups.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

Saltandpepper

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Bring3quartswater,beans,andbakingsodatoboilinDutchovenoverhighheat.Reduceheattomedium-highandsimmerbrisklyfor20minutes.Drainbeansincolander.Rinsebeansandpot.

2.Cooksaltporkinnow-emptypotovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,untilbrowned,about10minutes.Addonionandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirin3cupswater,sugar,¼cupmolasses,Worcestershire,1tablespoonmustard,vinegar,¼teaspoonpepper,andbeansandbringtoboil.Cover,transferpottooven,andcookuntilbeansarenearlytender,about1½hours.

3.Removelidandcontinuetobakeuntilbeansarecompletelytender,about30minutes.Stirinremaining1tablespoonmolassesandremaining1teaspoonmustard.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Beanscanbemadethroughstep3andrefrigeratedforupto4days.Coverandheatoverlowheat,stirringoccasionally,untilheatedthrough,8to10minutes,adjustingconsistencywithwaterasneeded.

HOWSWEETITWAS

Giventherelativeobscurityofmolassesintoday’seconomy,it’shardtounderstandthatitwasonceanimportantcommodity.Fromcolonialtimesonward,itwasdistilledintorum,enjoyedbythecolonists,andexportedtoEurope.Butmolasses,abyproductofthecane-sugarrefiningprocessimportedfromtheCaribbeanandWestIndies,couldalsobeusedtomakeindustrial-gradealcohol.Thiswasinturnusedtomanufacturegunpowderandothermunitions,bothingreatdemandduringWorldWarI.Butwiththeendofthewarinlate1918,thedemandforindustrialalcoholfell,andthecomingofProhibitionsignaledtheendofthelegalmanufactureofdrinkingalcohol.Infact,thedayafterBoston’sGreatMolassesFlood,thestateofNebraskaratifiedthe18thAmendmenttotheConstitution,andProhibitionbecamethelawoftheland.MolassesneverregaineditsimportanceintheNewEnglandeconomy.

POTATOKNISHES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Theknishisahearty,savorypastrymadefamousbyEasternEuropeanJewswhoimmigratedtoNewYorkintheearly20thcentury.Tomastertheknishathome,westartedwithasimpledoughofflour,oliveoil,salt,andwater.Addinganeggallowedtheoilandwatertocombine,makingthedoughmoresupple,andbakingpowderpromotedliftandtenderness.Forthefilling,wemashedhigh-starchrussetpotatoesanddeeplybrownedonionsforintenseflavor.Toassemble,werolledthedoughintoaverythinsquareandformedthefillingintoaropealongoneofitsedges.Athincoatingofoilonthedoughpreventedthelayersfromfusing,creatingalighterpastry.Werolledthedougharoundthefilling,slicedeachcylinderintoeightknishes,andstoodeachonendbeforepressinglightlytoflattentherolls.To

knishes,andstoodeachonendbeforepressinglightlytoflattentherolls.Toensurecrispbottoms,webrushedtheparchmentpaper–linedbakingsheetwithoilbeforearrangingtheknishesonit.

FILLING

2¼ poundsrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces

Saltandpepper

1 tablespoonoliveoil

3onions,choppedfine

teaspoonsbakingpowder

POTATOKNISHES

MAKES16

Awell-flouredcounterisessentialhere.Toreheatbakedknishes,placethemina350-degreeovenfor10to15minutes.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

cupoliveoil

cupwater

1largeegg,plus1largeeggbeatenwith1tablespoonwater

1 teaspoonsalt

1.FORTHEFILLING:Combinepotatoesand1tablespoonsaltinDutchovenandaddwatertocoverby1inch.Bringtoboiloverhighheat.Reduceheattomediumandcookuntilpotatoesaretender,20to25minutes.Drainpotatoesandreturntopot.Cookoverlowheatuntilpotatoesarethoroughlydry,about1minute.Mashpotatoeswithpotatomasheruntilveryfewlumpsremain.Transfertolargebowlandstirin½teaspoonsaltand½teaspoonpepper.

2.Heatoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addonionsand½teaspoonsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilwellbrowned,about10minutes.Transfertobowlwithmashedpotatoesandstirtocombine.Letfillingcoolcompletely.(Fillingcanbemadeupto24hoursinadvance,covered,andrefrigerated.)3.FORTHEDOUGH:Whiskflourandbakingpowdertogetherinlargebowl.Whisk6tablespoonsoil,water,1egg,andsalttogetherinseparatebowl.Addwetingredientstodryingredientsandstirwithrubberspatulauntildoughforms.Transferdoughtoflouredcounterandkneaduntilsmooth,about1minute.Wrapinplasticwrapandletrestoncounterfor1hourorrefrigerateforupto4hours(letdoughcometoroomtemperaturebeforerolling).

4.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaperandbrushparchmentwith2tablespoonsoil.Dividedoughinhalfandformeachhalfinto4-inchsquareonwell-flouredcounter.Workingwith1squareatatime(keepremainingdoughcoveredwithplastic),rolldoughinto16-inchsquare.Lightlybrushdoughwith2tablespoonsoil,leaving1-inchborderatfarthestedge.

5.Formhalfoffillinginto1-inchlogalongnearedgeofdough,leaving1-inchborderonsides.Brushfaredgeofdoughwithwater.Rolldougharoundfillingandsealedge.Trimknishlogoneachendsologmeasures16incheslong.Cutlogintoeight2-inchpieces.Standeachknishonendandpressto1-inchthickness.Spaceevenlyapartinpreparedsheet.Repeatwithremainingdough,remaining2tablespoonsoil,andremainingfilling.

6.Brushtopsandsidesofknisheswithegg-watermixture.Bakeuntil

goldenbrown,35to40minutes,rotatingsheethalfwaythroughbaking.Transferknishestowirerackandletcoolfor15minutes.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Knishescanbemadethroughstep5andfrozenforupto1month.Ifbakingfromfrozen,increasebakingtimeto50to55minutes.

EASIERKNISHCONSTRUCTION

1.Rollhalfofdoughinto16-inchsquaresothinyoucanseecounterthroughit.Brushdoughwithoil,moundhalfoffillingevenlyinlongrope,leavingabout1inchclearatnearestedgeandatends.

2.Rolldougharoundfillingandsealseam.Trimedges,placeseamsidedown,andcuttubeintopieces.Standeachknishoncutendandlightlypress.Placeonoiled,parchmentpaper–linedbakingsheet.

BIALYS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

AftertastingthebialysatKossar’sinManhattan’sLowerEastSide,weknewwhatwewantedfromourownrecipe:golden,chewyrollswithgreatsaltyflavorandagenerousonion-filleddimpleinthecenter.Westartedwiththefilling,sautéingchoppedonionsinoliveoilandkoshersaltuntiltheyturnedgoldenbrown.Atablespoonofpoppyseedsstirredinofftheheatfinishedoffthefilling.Turningtotherolls,thekeywaspatience.Aftermixingasimpledoughandkneadingit,weletitriseforanhour.Wedividedthedoughinto12pieces,allowedthemtorise,formedthemintoballs,andletthemriseyetagain.Thethreerestingperiodsallowedtheglutentorelaxandtheyeasttoformlargeairpockets,resultinginverytenderbialys.Sugargavetheexterioracrusty,goldenappearance.We

tenderbialys.Sugargavetheexterioracrusty,goldenappearance.Weformedandfilledthedimplesrightbeforebaking,andourendresulttookusrightbacktoNewYorkCity—butwithoutthetrainfare.

2cupswarmwater(110degrees)

1 tablespoonsugar

2teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast

4¾ cups(23¾ounces)all-purposeflour

2 tablespoonskoshersalt

FILLING

BIALYS

MAKES12

Ifyousubstitutetablesaltforkosher,cutthesaltamountsinhalf.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

cupsfinelychoppedonion

1 teaspoonkoshersalt

1 tablespoonpoppyseeds

1.FORTHEDOUGH:Inbowlofstandmixer,combinewarmwater,sugar,andyeastandletsituntilfoamy,about3minutes.Addflourandsalttoyeastmixture.Fitstandmixerwithdoughhookandkneadonlowspeeduntildoughcomestogether,about3minutes.

2.Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneadbyhanduntilsmooth,about1minute.Transferdoughtogreasedbowlandcovertightlywithplasticwrap.Letdoughriseatroomtemperatureuntilalmostdoubledinsize,about1hour.

3.Line2rimmedbakingsheetswithparchmentpaperandlightlyflourparchment.Gentlypresscenterofdoughtodeflate.Transferdoughtolightlyflouredcounteranddivideinto12equalpieces.Formeachpieceintoroughballbypullingdoughedgesunderneathsotopissmooth.Arrange6ballsoneachpreparedsheetandcoverlooselywithplastic.Letdoughriseatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.

4.FORTHEFILLING:Heatoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonionsandsaltandcookuntilgoldenbrown,about10minutes.Offheat,stirinpoppyseeds.

5.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento475degrees.Onlightlyflouredcounter,useyourhandstogentlypresseachdoughballinto5-inchround.Returntosheetsandcoverlooselywithplastic.Letdoughriseatroomtemperatureuntilpuffy,15to20minutes.

6.Greaseandflourbottomofround1-cupdrymeasuringcup(or3-inch-diameterdrinkingglass).Presscupfirmlyintocenterofeachdoughrounduntilcuptouchessheettomakeindentationforfilling.(Reflourcupasneededtopreventsticking.)

7.Dividefillingevenlyamongbialys(about1heapingtablespooneach)andsmoothwithbackofspoon.Bakeuntilspottygoldenbrown,15to20minutes,rotatingandswitchingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Transferbialystowirerackandletcoolfor10minutes.Serve.

BIALY’SBIRTHPLACE

WhenfoodwriterMimiSheratonsetoutin1992todiscovertheoriginsofthebialy,commonwisdomsentherstraighttothewidelyacknowledgedsource:Bialystok,Poland.Butdespitevigoroussleuthing,shecouldn’tfindaBialystokbakerythatproducedbialys.Wassheonthewrongtrack?HadNazioccupation(GermanforcesdecimatedBialystok’sonce-thrivingJewishpopulation)wipedoutanyevidence?WerebialysinventedintheNewWorldbyexpatriateswho’descapedturn-of-the-centurypogroms?ThemysteryinspiredherbookTheBialyEaters,inwhichSheratonspokewithfar-flungformerBialystokersaroundtheworld,fromNewYorktoIsraeltoArgentina.Throughherinterviewsandresearch,Sheratondeterminedthatthebialy

(bialystokerkuchen)anditsprecursor,thepletzl,werebothknowninBialystokbeforeWorldWarII.Whetheritwasinventedthere,however,andwhobakedthefirstone,isamystery.

BALLPARKPRETZELS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Wewantedmahogany-brownsoftpretzelsthatmadeitworthstayinghometowatchthebiggame.Tostart,wecreatedasoft,sweetinteriorbyusingbreadflour—itshigherglutencontentproducesgreatchew—andbrownsugar,whichcontributedasubtlemaltyflavortothedough.Pretzelsgettheirdarkcrustfromexposuretoanalkalisolution,sowecreatedourownwithwaterandbakingsoda.Boilingourpretzelsinthissolutionensuredproperbrowningandsetthecrusttoprotectthedense,chewydoughinside.After30secondsinthesolution,welettheuncookedpretzelsdrybrieflyonawireracktopreventthemfromadheringtothebakingsheet.Bakedafterageneroussprinklingofkoshersalt,thesepretzelswerereadyforthebigleagues.

leagues.

1½ cupswarmwater(110degrees)

2 tablespoonspackeddarkbrownsugar

2teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast

3¾ cups(20⅔ounces)breadflour

Koshersalt

cupbakingsoda

BALLPARKPRETZELS

MAKES12

Weusekoshersaltontheexteriorofourpretzels,butcoarsepretzelsaltmaybesubstituted.However,besuretousekoshersaltinthedough.Keepinmindthatthedoughneedstorisefor1hour,andthentheshapedpretzelsrequirea20-minuterisebeforeboilingandbaking.Thesepretzelsarebestservedwarm,withmustard.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Lightlygreaselargebowl.Inbowlofstandmixer,combinewarmwater,2tablespoonsoil,sugar,andyeastandletsituntilfoamy,about3minutes.Combineflourand4teaspoonssaltinseparatebowl.Addflourmixturetoyeastmixture.Fitstandmixerwithdoughhookandkneadonlowspeeduntildoughcomestogetherandclearssidesofbowl,4to6minutes.

2.Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneadbyhanduntilsmooth,about1minute.Transferdoughtogreasedbowlandcoverwithplasticwrap.Letdoughriseatroomtemperatureuntilalmostdoubledinsize,about1hour.

3.Gentlypresscenterofdoughtodeflate.Transferdoughtolightlygreasedcounter,divideinto12equalpieces,andcoverwithplastic.

4.Lightlyflour2rimmedbakingsheets.Workingwith1pieceofdoughatatime,rollinto22-inch-longrope.ShaperopeintoUwith2-inch-widebottomcurveandendsfacingawayfromyou.CrisscrossropesinmiddleofU,thenfoldendstowardbottomofU.FirmlypressendsintobottomcurveofU1inchaparttoformpretzelshape.Transferpretzelstopreparedsheets,knotsideup,6pretzelspersheet.Coverpretzelslooselywithplasticandletriseatroomtemperatureuntilslightlypuffy,about20minutes.

5.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento425degrees.Dissolvebakingsodain4cupswaterinDutchovenandbringtoboilovermedium-highheat.Usingslottedspatula,transfer4pretzels,knotsidedown,toboilingwaterandcookfor30seconds,flippinghalfwaythroughcooking.Transferpretzelstowirerack,knotsideup,andrepeatwithremaining8pretzelsin2additionalbatches.Letpretzelsrestfor5minutes.

6.Wipeflourfromsheetsandgreasewithremaining1tablespoonoil.Sprinkleeachsheetwith½teaspoonsalt.Transferpretzelstopreparedsheets,knotsideup,6pretzelspersheet.Sprinkle1teaspoonsaltevenlyoverpretzels.

7.Bakepretzelsuntilmahoganybrownandanyyellowishcoloraroundseamshasfaded,15to20minutes,switchingandrotatingsheetshalfway

throughbaking.Transferpretzelstowirerackandletcoolfor10minutes.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Pretzelsarebesteatendaytheyarebakedbutwillkeepatroomtemperatureinairtightcontainerforupto2days.Freezepretzels,wrappedwellinplasticwrap,forupto1month.Toreheatroom-temperaturepretzels,brushtopslightlywithwater,sprinklewithsalt,andtoastonbakingsheetat300degreesfor5minutes.Letfrozenpretzelsthawbeforereheating.

SHAPESHIFTER

1.Afterrollingeachballinto22-inchrope,bendintoUshapewithendsfacingaway.

2.CrossropeendsinmiddleofU,thencrossagain.FoldendsovertoptowardbottomofUandpressendsfirmlyintobottomofcurve,about1inchapart.

RHODEISLANDJOHNNYCAKES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Johnnycakesarerich,crispcorncakesthataren’tjustforbreakfast.RhodeIslandersregularlyserveupthiscolonial-eradish,andthelocalloveforjohnnycakesisputonprouddisplayattheannualJohnnyCakeFestivalinRichmond,RhodeIsland.Forjohnnycakesthatwouldstackupinourownkitchen,wetookatipfrompolentarecipes,combiningthedryingredientsbeforewhiskingthemintoapotofboilingwater.Thisstepallowedthecornmealtocookmorethoroughly,softeningitsnaturallygrittytexture.Restingthebatterfor15minutesthickenedittotheconsistencyofmashedpotatoes.Afterploppingmoundsofbatterintothepan,weletthecakescookforatleast6minutestoformacrustonthebottom,preventingthemfrombreakingapartwhenflipped.Gentlyflatteningthecakestoabout¼

frombreakingapartwhenflipped.Gentlyflatteningthecakestoabout¼inchallowedthemtocookthrough.Asis,thesewereaperfectsidedish;servedwithasimplemaplebutter,theyprovedastandoutalternativetopancakes.

1cupjohnnycakemealorstone-groundcornmeal

2 teaspoonssugar

teaspoonsalt

2¾ cupswater,plusextrahotwaterforthinningbatter

RHODEISLANDJOHNNYCAKES

MAKES12

JohnnycakesarebestservedwarmwithMapleButterormaplesyrupforbreakfast,orasasidedishforsoupsandstews.Donottrytoturnthejohnnycakestoosoonortheywillfallapart.Ifyouprefercrispierjohnnycakes,pressthepancakesthinnerinstep5.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.

2.Whiskjohnnycakemeal,sugar,andsalttogetherinbowl.Bringwatertoboilinlargesaucepan.Slowlywhiskjohnnycakemealmixtureintoboilingwateruntilnolumpsremain;continuetocookuntilthickened,about30seconds.Offheat,whiskinbutter.Pourbatterintobowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andletsituntilslightlyfirm,about15minutes.

3.Rewhiskbatteruntilsmooth.Battershouldbeconsistencyofploppablemashedpotatoes;ifnot,thinwith1to2tablespoonsextrahotwateruntilmixturewilldropeasilyfromspoon.

4.Heat1tablespoonoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering(orheatnonstickgriddleto400degrees).Usinggreased¼-cupdrymeasuringcup,drop6evenlyspacedscoopsofbatterintoskillet,usingspoontohelpreleasebatterfromcupasneeded.Cookjohnnycakes,withoutmovingthem,untiledgesappearcrispyandgoldenbrown,6to8minutes.

5.Carefullyflipjohnnycakesandpresswithspatulatoflatteninto2½-to3-inch-diameterpancakes.Continuetocookuntilwellbrownedonsecondside,5to7minutes.Transferjohnnycakestopreparedwirerackandplaceinoventokeepwarm.Whisk2to4tablespoonsextrahotwaterintoremainingbattertoreturntocorrectconsistency.Repeatcookingwithremaining1tablespoonoilandremainingbatter.Serve.

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened

1 tablespoonpuremaplesyrup

teaspoonsalt

MAPLEBUTTERMAKES¼CUP

Maplebutterwillkeep,coveredandrefrigerated,foroneweek.Tryitonroastedvegetables,cornbread,orporkchops,aswellasjohnnycakes.

Whiskbutter,maplesyrup,andsalttogetherinbowluntilcombined.

WHAT’SINANAME?

Recipesuniquetoaparticularareainspirefierceloyaltyamongtheirfans,nottomentionragingargumentsaboutthe“real”versionandwhofirstmadeit.Eventheproperspellingcanbeasubjectofdisputes.RhodeIslandjohnnycakesareaperfectexample.Americanshavebeeneatingcornmeal-basedhotcakeseversincethefirstsettlersadoptedthemfromtheNativeAmericans.TheearliestEnglishnameforthemwas“journeycakes,”thoughttoderivefromthefactthatNativeAmericanstookthecakeswiththemontheirtravels.Overtheyears,regionalvariationsmultiplied,andownershipofthebestormostauthenticversionwashotlydebated.NowheredidtheargumentragemorefiercelythaninRhodeIsland,where,asitturnsout,thespellingwasasimportantastherecipe.AtsomepointnotlongaftertheRevolutionaryWar,“journeycake”wasreplacedby“Johnnycake”throughoutthecolonies.ButsomeRhodeIslandersobjectedthatthisnewspellingcouldbeconstruedashonoringJohnBull,thecolonialnameforanEnglishman.Howmuchmorepatriotic,theysaid,tocallthem“Jonnycakes,”since“Jonathan”(noh)wasthenicknameforthenewAmericans.Inthe1890s,theRhodeIslandlegislatureproclaimed“Jonnycake”thestate’sofficialspelling(although“johnnycake”or“johnnycake”ismostcommonnow).

POTATOBISCUITSWITHCHIVES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Asarule,biscuitsshouldbelightandflaky,requiringminimalprepanddeliveringmaximumrichnessineverybite.Howcouldweincorporatepotatoes,saidtomakebakedgoodsextra-tender,intothatdelicatebalance?Wediscoveredthatinstantmashedpotatoesprovidedthebenefitofpotatostarchwithoutanyaddedweight.Aftertestingdifferentproportions,wefoundthat¾cupdehydratedpotatoto2½cupsall-purposeflourproducedincrediblyflakybiscuitsthatresistedcrumbling.Forabiscuitthatroseashighasitsbuttermilkcousins,weturnedtoextrabakingpowderforleaveningpower.Choppedfreshchivesreinforcedtheearthypotatotaste,roundingouttheflavorofthesetender,savorybiscuits.

2½ cups(12½ounces)all-purposeflour¾

cupinstantpotatoflakes

cupchoppedfreshchives

teaspoonbakingsoda

1 tablespoonsugar

1 teaspoonsalt

8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpiecesandchilled,plus2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted

4tablespoonsvegetableshortening,cutinto½-inchpiecesandchilled

POTATOBISCUITSWITHCHIVES

MAKES12

Welikethetextureofbiscuitsmadewithbothbutterandshortening,butifyouprefertouseallbutter,omittheshorteninganduse12tablespoonsofchilledbutterinstep1.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1¼ cupsbuttermilk,chilled

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento450degrees.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Processflour,potatoflakes,chives,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,sugar,andsaltinfoodprocessoruntilcombined,about15seconds.Addchilledbutterandshorteningandpulseuntilmixtureresemblescoarsecrumbs,7to9pulses.

2.Transferflourmixturetolargebowl.Stirinbuttermilkwithrubberspatulauntilcombined,turningandpressinguntilnodryflourremains.Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneadbriefly,8to10times,toformsmooth,cohesiveball.Rolloutdoughinto9-inchcircle,about¾inchthick.

3.Usingfloured2½-inchroundcutter,stampout8to9biscuitsandarrangeupsidedownonpreparedsheet.Gatherdoughscrapsandgentlypatinto¾-inch-thickcircle.Stampoutremaining3to4biscuitsandtransfertosheet.

4.Bakeuntilbiscuitsbegintorise,about5minutes,thenrotatesheetandreduceoventemperatureto400degrees.Continuetobakeuntilgoldenbrown,10to12minuteslonger.Brushbiscuittopswithmeltedbutter.Transfertowirerackandletcoolfor5minutesbeforeserving.

POTATOBISCUITSWITHCHEDDARANDSCALLIONSOmitchivesandprocess¾cupshreddedextra-sharpcheddarcheeseand4thinlyslicedscallionswithflourinstep1.

POTATOBISCUITSWITHBACON

Cook6slicesofbaconin12-inchskilletovermediumheatuntilcrispy,7to9minutes;transfertopapertowel–linedplate.Crumblebaconwhencoolenoughtohandle.Omitchivesandprocesscrumbledbaconwithflourinstep1.

FLAKINGOUT

Itwas1953,andchemicalengineersJamesCordingandMilesJ.Willardhadachallenge:apotatoglut.CordingandWillard,workingfortheDepartmentofAgricultureinWyndmoor,Pennsylvania,setouttofindawaytopreservethebountybycreatingapotatoproductthatwasshelf-stable,lightweight,andpleasanttoeat—somethingthemilitary,forexample,coulduseforrations.Aftermanyglueyfailures,theydevelopedthethree-step“PhiladelphiaCook”:Thepotatoesarecookedat150to165degreesfor20minutestogelatinizethestarch,thencooledandcookedagaininasteamcookertoseparatethepotatocellswithoutrupturingthem(rupturedcellsmakepaste,notmash).Finally,thepotatoesaredriedandbrokenintoflakes.Theresult:easy-to-rehydrate,shelf-stable,lightpotatoes.CordingandWillardweregrantedapatentfortheprocessin1956.Today,about10percentoftheU.S.potatocropisdehydrated,mostlyforuseinmilitary,school,andfoodaidprogramshereandabroad.

GARLICKNOTS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Couldwebringsoft,chewy,andsupremelygarlickygarlicknotshomewithoutthehelpofapizzadeliveryguy?Sincepotentgarlicflavoristheirdefiningcharacteristic,wesetouttoinfuseourgarlicknotswithit.Westartedbycooking10mincedgarlicclovesinbutter,addingwatertodrawoutthecookingtimeforbetterbrowning.Lettingthepansitofftheheatallowedthebuttertosteepbeforethegarlicsolidswerestrainedandsetaside.Afterdiscoveringthatsimplybrushingthesurfacewithourgarlicbutterwasn’tquiteenough,westirredsomeofthebutterandthereservedtoastygarlicsolidsintothedoughtorampuptheflavor.Brushingthesurfacewithourbrownedbuttertwiceduringbakingproducedthepotentgarlickyknotswewerecraving.

garlickyknotswewerecraving.

1teaspoonwater,plus¾cupwarmwater(110degrees)

1½ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast

1 teaspoonsalt

GARLICKNOTS

MAKES12

You’llneed2tablespoonsofmincedgarlic.Adding1teaspoonofwaterinstep2allowsthegarlictobrownbeforethebutterburns.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Whenovenreaches200degrees,turnitoff.Greaselargebowl.

2.Cookgarlic,1tablespoonbutter,and1teaspoonwaterinsmallnonstickskilletoverlowheat,stirringoccasionally,untilgarlicisstrawcolored,8to10minutes.Addremaining5tablespoonsbutter,stirringuntilmelted.Letstandfor10minutesoffheat.Straingarlicbutterthroughfine-meshstrainerintosmallbowl;reservegarlicsolids.

3.Whiskremaining¾cupwarmwater,1tablespoongarlicbutter,reservedgarlicsolids,andyeasttogetherinliquidmeasuringcupuntilyeastdissolves.Inbowlofstandmixerfittedwithdoughhook,mixflourandsaltuntilcombined.Withmixeronlow,addwatermixtureinsteadystreamandmixuntildoughcomestogether,about1minute.Increasespeedtomediumandkneaduntildoughissmoothandcomesawayfromsidesofbowl,about6minutes.Turnoutdoughontocleancounterandkneadbrieflytoformsmooth,cohesiveball.Transferdoughtopreparedbowlandturntocoat.Coverwithplasticwrapandplaceinturned-offovenuntildoughhasdoubledinsize,40to50minutes.

4.Linebakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Punchdowndoughonflouredcounter.Rolldoughinto12by6-inchrectangleandcutintotwelve6-inchstrips.Withflathands,rollstripsinto12-inchropes.Gatherendsofeachropeandmake1½-inchloopbythreadingendsofropeunderneatheachotherandpullingasiftyingshoelaces.Tuckonetailintocenterofloopandpullothertailupthroughcenterofloop.

5.Placeknotsonpreparedbakingsheet,coverlooselywithplastic,andreturntoturned-offovenuntildoubledinsize,about20minutes.

6.Removeknotsfromovenanddiscardplastic.Heatovento500degrees.Returnknotstoovenandbakeuntilset,about5minutes.Removeknotsfromovenandbrushwith2tablespoonsgarlicbutter.Rotatesheet,returnittooven,andbakeuntilknotsaregolden,about5minutes.Brushknotswithremaininggarlicbutterandletcoolfor5minutes.Transfertowirerack.Servewarm.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Shapedknotscanberefrigerated,covered,for24hours.Letsitatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.Meanwhile,heatovento200degreesandturnoff.Putknotsinturned-offovenuntildoubledinsize,about20minutes.Proceedwithstep6.

TYINGTHEKNOT

1.Making1½-inchloop,tieropeasinfirststepoftyingshoelaces.

2.Tuck1tailintocenterofloopfromtop.

3.Pullothertailupthroughbottomsoendpokesupthroughcenter.

ANADAMABREAD

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

What’sthesecrettoperfectingthisclassicNewEnglandcornmealandmolassesloaf?Morecornmealandmolasses.Hopingtoachieveastrongcornmealflavorwithoutsacrificingthebread’sstructure,weuppedtheamountofcornmealandthenaddedyeasttomakeupforthelossofglutenandhelpourloavesrisehigh.Toperfectthetexture,weturnedtoall-purposeflourinsteadofwholewheat(whichproducedheavybread),andwechosewaterovermilkforanicerchew.Formorenoticeablemolassesflavor,weaddedawhopping½cup,whichalsogavethebreadabeautifulcaramel-browncolor.

1cup(5ounces)cornmeal,plusextrafordusting

2cupswarmwater(110degrees)

cupmolasses

1tablespooninstantorrapid-riseyeast

teaspoonssalt

ANADAMABREAD

MAKES2LOAVES

Thisrecipeiseasilyhalved.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Greaselargebowl.Greasetwo8½by4½-inchloafpansanddustwithextracornmeal.Whiskwater,molasses,andmeltedbuttertogetherinbowlorlargemeasuringcupuntilcombined.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithdoughhook,mixflour,yeast,salt,andcornmealtogetheronlowspeeduntilcombined,about5seconds.Slowlyaddmolassesmixtureandkneaduntilcohesivemassstartstoform,about2minutes.Increasespeedtomedium-lowandkneaduntildoughissmoothandelastic,6to8minutes.(Doughshouldclearsidesofbowlbutwillsticktobottom.)Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneadfor1minute.

3.Transferdoughtopreparedbowlandcoverwithplasticwrap.Letriseatroomtemperatureuntilalmostdoubledinsizeandfingertipdepressionindoughspringsbackslowly,1to1½hours.

4.Gentlypressdownoncenterofdoughtodeflate.Placedoughonlightlyflouredcounteranddivideinhalf.Workingwith1halfatatime,patdoughinto17by8-inchrectangle.Withshortsidefacingyou,rolldoughawayfromyouintotightcylinder.Pinchseamclosed.Placeloafseamsidedowninpreparedpan,pressinggentlyintocorners.Repeatwithremainingdough.

5.Coverloaveslooselywithplasticandletriseatroomtemperatureuntilalmostdoubledinsize,1to1½hours(topsofloavesshouldriseabout1inchabovelipsofpans).About20minutesbeforedoughisfullyrisen,adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento425degrees.

6.Placepansinovenandreduceoventemperatureto375degrees.Bakeuntilcrustisbrownandbreadregisters200degrees,35to45minutes,switchingandrotatingpanshalfwaythroughbaking.Turnoutloavesontowirerackandletcoolcompletelybeforeserving,about2hours.

SHAPINGSANDWICHBREAD

Ouranadamadoughiseasytoworkwithandrequiresnospecialtricks—it’sshapedjustlikeregularsandwichbread.

1.Afterfirstrise,dividedoughinhalfandpatdoughintorectangle.

2.Rolldoughintotightcylinder.

3.Pinchseamclosed.

4.Transferloaf,seamsidedown,topreparedloafpan.

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Muchbetterthanrun-of-the-millcinnamonbread,babkahasbeenperfectedinbakeriesacrosstheBigApple.Forourtakeonthismultilayeredclassic,wewantedarich,moistloafofbreadswirledwithgooeycinnamonsugar.Startingwithbrioche-styledough(ayeasteddoughmadewithbutter,eggs,sugar,andmilk),wereducedtheamountofbutterandreplacedonewholeeggwithtwoyolksandsomemilkforaluxuriouslytenderyetsturdydough.Addingflourandaneggwhitetothefillingkeptthecinnamonsugarfromsinkingthroughthedough,maintainingthedesiredswirlfromtoptobottom.Tocreatethisbread’ssignaturelayers,werolledoutthechilleddough,spreaditwiththefilling,androlleditintoacylinder,thenspreadmorefillingontopofthecylinderbeforefoldingitoveronitself.Last,we

morefillingontopofthecylinderbeforefoldingitoveronitself.Last,wegentlytwistedthefoldeddoughtwiceintoadoublefigureeight.Weallowedtheloaftorise,brusheditwithaneggwash,thenbakedituntilitwasabeautifuldeepgoldencolor.

FILLING

1cuppacked(7ounces)lightbrownsugar

¼ cup(1¼ounces)all-purposeflour

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled

1 largeeggwhite

2 teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

teaspoonsalt

MAKES1LOAF

Onceyou’veaddedthebutterinstep3,ifthedoughisstillstickingtothesidesofthebowlafter5minutesofmixing,add2to4tablespoonsofextraflour.Thetestkitchen’sfavoriteloafpanmeasures8½by4½inches;ifyouuseastandard9by5-inchloafpan,startcheckingthebabkafordonenessafter40minutes.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

½ cupwarmwholemilk(110degrees)

2largeeggyolksplus1largeegg

1 teaspoonvanillaextract

¼ cup(1¾ounces)granulatedsugar1½ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast½

teaspoonsalt

8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto8piecesandsoftened

1.FORTHEFILLING:Combineallingredientsinmediumbowl.Setaside1tablespoonfilling.

2.FORTHEDOUGH:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Whenovenreaches200degrees,turnitoff.Greaselargebowl.Whiskmilk,eggyolks,andvanillatogetherin1-cupliquidmeasuringcup.

3.Usingstandmixerfittedwithdoughhook,mixtogetherflour,sugar,yeast,andsaltonlowspeeduntilcombined.Slowlyaddmilkmixtureandmixuntildoughcomestogether,about3minutes.Increasespeedtomedium-lowandaddbutter,1pieceatatime,untilincorporated,about1minute.Continuetomixuntildoughissmoothandcomesawayfromsidesofbowl,10to12minutes.Transferdoughtopreparedbowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andplaceinturned-offovenuntildoughhasrisenslightly,about1hour.Placeinrefrigeratoruntildoughisfirmandhasdoubledinsize,atleast1hour.

4.Line8½by4½-inchloafpanwithparchmentpaper,allowingexcesstohangoveredges.Punchdowndoughonlightlyflouredcounter.Rolloutdoughto20by14-inchrectangle.Spreadallbutreserved1tablespoonfillingoverdough,leaving½-inchborderaroundedges.Workingfromshortside,rolldoughintocylinderandpinchalongseamtoseal.Positioncylinderseamsideupandrollbackandforthuntilstretchedto18-inchlength.Spreadreservedfillingontopofcylinder.Foldcylinderontopofitselfandpinchendstoseal.Gentlytwistdoublecylindertwicetoformdoublefigureeight.Placeshapeddoughseamsidedowninpreparedpan,coverlooselywithplastic,andletriseinturned-offovenuntildoubledinsize,about1hour.

5.Lightlybeatwholeegginbowl.Removeloaffromovenanddiscardplastic.Heatovento350degrees.Brushloafwithbeatenegg.Bakeuntildeepgoldenbrownandloafregisters190degrees,about45minutes.Letcoolinpanonwirerackfor20minutes.Removeloaffrompanandcoolcompletely,about2hours.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Insteadoflettingdoughriseinstep4,covershaped

loafwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto24hours.Letdoughsitatroomtemperaturefor1hourbeforebaking.

CREATINGBABKA’SSIGNATURESWIRL

1.Afterstretchinglogofdoughto18inchesandrollingitbackandforth,spreadremainingfillingovertopoflog.Foldlogontoitselfandpinchendstoseal.

2.Twistlogtwicetoformdoublefigureeightandplaceseamsidedowninloafpan.

HERMITCOOKIES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Hermits,aNewEnglandspecialty,shouldbesoft,chewyraisincookieswithbalanced,spicysweetness.Forcookieswiththeperfecttexture,wemeltedthebutterinasaucepanandcookedituntilslightlybrown.Thebrownedbutteraddedmoistureandanuttyflavortothecookies.Wewantedwarm,delicatespicesinthesehermits,sowebloomedthearomaticflavorsofcinnamonandallspiceinthebrownedbutter.Pureeingraisinsandcrystallizedgingerintoapastehelpeddistributetheirpotent,sweetflavorsintoeverybite.Bakingthedoughasalogbeforeslicingitintobarsmadeforchewier,moistercookies.Drizzledwithasimpleglazeofconfectioners’sugarandorangejuice,theseold-fashionedcookiesearnedtheirplaceinourcookiejar.

cookiejar.

1 cupraisins

2 tablespoonsfinelychoppedcrystallizedginger

1 teaspoongroundcinnamon

teaspoongroundallspice

teaspoonbakingsoda

teaspoonsalt

¾ cuppacked(5¼ounces)darkbrownsugar½

HERMITCOOKIES

MAKESABOUT20

Forthisrecipe,wepreferusingmild(orlight)molassesinsteadoftherobustorblackstrapvarieties.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

cupmolasses

2 largeeggs

tablespoonsorangejuice

¾ cup(3ounces)confectioners’sugar

1.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento350degrees.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Processraisinsandgingerinfoodprocessoruntilmixturestickstogetherandonlysmallpiecesremain,about10seconds.Transfermixturetolargebowl.

2.Heatbutterinsmallsaucepanovermedium-lowheat,swirlingpanoccasionally,untilnuttybrownincolor,about10minutes.Stirincinnamonandallspiceandcookuntilfragrant,about15seconds.Stirbuttermixtureintoraisinmixtureuntilwellcombined;letcooltoroomtemperature.

3.Combineflour,bakingsoda,andsaltinbowl.Stirbrownsugar,molasses,andeggsintocooledbutter-raisinmixtureuntilincorporated.Foldinflourmixture(doughwillbeverysticky)andrefrigerate,covered,untilfirm,atleast1½hoursorupto24hours.

4.Dividedoughintoquarters.Transfer1pieceofdoughtolightlyflouredcounterandrollinto10-inchlog.Transfertopreparedbakingsheetanduserulertoneatlysquareoffsides.(Eachsheetwillcontain2logs.)Repeatwithremainingdough.Bakeuntilonlyshallowindentationremainsonedgeswhentouched(centerwillappearslightlysoft),15to20minutes,switchingandrotatingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Letcoolonsheetsfor5minutes,thentransferparchmenttowireracksandletcoolcompletely.

5.Whiskorangejuiceandconfectioners’sugartogetherinsmallbowluntilsmooth.Drizzleglazeontocooledlogsandletsituntilglazehardens,about15minutes.Cutlogsinto2-inchbars.Serve.(Cookiescanbestoredinairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto5days.)

PERFECTINGHERMITS

1.Rolleachquarterofdoughinto10-inchlog,transfertobakingsheet,thenuserulertoneatlysquareoffsidesbeforebaking.

2.Oncecompletelycooled,drizzlebakedhermitswithglazebeforeslicingintoindividualbars.

POTATOCHIPCOOKIES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Tomakethisoddbutintriguing-soundingcookierecipework,wewantedtoharnessthesaltyflavorandcrunchofpotatochipswhileskippinganyexcessgrease.Toincorporatepotatochipcrumbswithamplecrunchintoourdough,wecrushedtheminazipper-lockbagwitharollingpin.Reduced-fatchipsmeantlessbrowningandnooilytaste.Usingbothgranulatedandconfectioners’sugarsproducedcookiesthatwerebothchewyandcrumbly,andaddingasingleeggyolkmadeforthemosttendertexture.Toastedandchoppedpecanswereallthatwereneededtosolidifythislip-smackingsalty-sweetmatchup.Howcouldwepossiblyimproveonthisone-of-a-kindcookie?Withadipinmeltedchocolateandasprinklingofcoarsesalt.

ofcoarsesalt.

¾ cup(3¾ounces)all-purposeflour1½ ouncesreduced-fatpotatochips,crushedfine(½cup)¼ cuppecans,toastedandchoppedfine¼

teaspoonsalt

¼ cup(1¾ounces)granulatedsugar¼ cup(1ounce)confectioners’sugar

1 largeeggyolk

teaspoonvanillaextract

POTATOCHIPCOOKIES

MAKES24

CapeCod40%ReducedFatPotatoChipsarethetestkitchenfavoriteamongreduced-fatchips.Inthisrecipe,theymakeforextremelycrunchycookies.Topreventsticking,dipthedrinkingglassinflourbeforeflatteningeachcookie.Toastthepecansinasmall,dryskilletovermediumheat,shakingtheskilletoften,untiltheybegintodarken,3to5minutes.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Line2rimmedbakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Combineflour,potatochips,pecans,andsaltinbowl.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutter,granulatedsugar,andconfectioners’sugartogetheronmedium-highspeeduntilpaleandfluffy,about3minutes.Addeggyolkandvanillaandbeatuntilcombined.Reducespeedtolowandslowlyaddflourmixturein3additions.Rolldoughinto1-inchballsandspace3inchesapartonbakingsheets.Flattendoughballsto¼-inchthicknesswithbottomoffloureddrinkingglass.

3.Bake,1sheetatatime,untilcookiesarejustsetandlightlybrownedonbottom,10to13minutes,rotatingsheethalfwaythroughbaking.Letcookiescoolcompletelyonsheets,about15minutes.Serve.(Cookiescanbestoredinairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

CHOCOLATE-DIPPEDPOTATOCHIPCOOKIES

Microwave10ouncesfinelychoppedbittersweetchocolateinbowlat50percentpower,stirringoccasionally,untilmelted,2to4minutes.Carefullydiphalfofeachcooledcookieinchocolate,scrapingoffexcesswithfinger,andplaceonparchmentpaper–linedbakingsheet.Sprinklecoarsesaltoverwarmchocolateandrefrigerateuntilchocolatesets,about15minutes.Serve.

THECHIPCAMEFIRST

America’sloveaffairwithpotatochipsbeganmorethan150yearsagowhenanenterprisingchefatMoon’sLakeHouseinSaratogaSprings,NewYork,sentthickslicesofpotatoonahistoricsaltyplungeintothedeepfryerandunwittinglychangedthesnackfoodbusinessforever.SaratogaSpringswas(andis)asmall,upstatetown,butplentyofwell-

heeledNewYorkersrelaxedthereduringthesummerinthe1850s,whichmayaccountforthespotlightshoneontheearlychip.“Youbegintoeatfriedpotatoessosoonasyouarriveatthelake;youcontinuallyeatthemtilyoudepart;andIhaveheardofladieswhohavetakenFrenchcambricpocket-handkerchiefsfulloffriedpotatoeshomewiththem,andkeptthemundertheirpillows,”BritishjournalistGeorgeAugustusSalawroteintheDailyTelegraph.(HewasreportingonAmericanmannersandcustomsduringtheCivilWar.)“Ihaveseenthemeatenbyladieswithlavenderkidgloveson,”he

continued,“andtheyaresocrispandcroquantandsoclean-looking,thatyougenerallydispensewithaplatewhileeatingthematdinner,andkeepapileoffriedpotatoesonthetable-clothbyyourside.Theyareeatenwithfish,theyareeatenwithgame,theyareeatenwithsherry-coblers,andtheyareeatenwithice-creams.”Inadditiontoeatingtheminourcookies,welikeourchipsstraightoutofthebag.

BOSTONCREAMCUPCAKES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

TranslatingBostoncreampieintohandheldformrequiredasturdybuttendercake,rich,creamycustardthathelditsshape,andarichchocolateglazetotopitoff.Forthecake,reversecreaming(cuttingbutterintothedryingredientsbeforebeatingintheliquidingredients)createdamoist,finecrumb,easilyhandledandreadyforfilling.Heavycream,eggyolks,andcornstarchcreatedtheperfectconsistencyforthecustard.Bittersweetchocolateblendedwithcornsyrupgavetheglazeafull,strongflavorandanappealingsheen.Toassemblethecomponents,wecarvedoutaconeofcakefromthetopofeachdomeandcutoffallbutthetopdiskofcaketocontainthefilling.Afterwespoonedthecustardintothemiddleofthecupcakeandreplacedthetop,theglazeconcealedtheincisionforaflawlessbakery-fresh

replacedthetop,theglazeconcealedtheincisionforaflawlessbakery-freshlook.

PASTRYCREAM

cupsheavycream

3 largeeggyolks

⅓ cup(2⅓ounces)sugar

Pinchsalt

1 tablespoonplus1teaspooncornstarch

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,chilledandcutinto2pieces

teaspoonsvanillaextract

BOSTONCREAMCUPCAKES

MAKES12

Bakethecupcakesinagreasedandflouredmuffintinratherthanpapercupcakelinerssothechocolateglazecanrundownthesidesofthecooledcakes.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

CUPCAKES

1¾ cups(8¾ounces)all-purposeflour1½

teaspoonsalt

1cup(7ounces)sugar

3 largeeggs

cupmilk

cupheavycream

cuplightcornsyrup

8ouncesbittersweetchocolate,chopped

1.FORTHEPASTRYCREAM:Heatcreaminmediumsaucepanovermediumheatuntilsimmering,stirringoccasionally.Meanwhile,whiskeggyolks,sugar,andsalttogetherinmediumbowl.Addcornstarchandwhiskuntilmixtureispaleyellowandthick,about15seconds.

2.Whencreamreachesfullsimmer,slowlywhiskintoyolkmixture.Returnmixturetosaucepanandcookovermediumheat,whiskingconstantly,untilthickandglossy,1to2minutes.Offheat,whiskinbutterandvanilla.Transferpastrycreamtosmallbowl,pressplasticwrapdirectlyontosurface,andrefrigerateuntilset,atleast2hoursorupto2days.

3.FORTHECUPCAKES:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Spray12-cupmuffintinwithvegetableoilspray,flourgenerously,andtappantoremoveexcessflour.

4.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,combineflour,bakingpowder,salt,andsugaronlowspeed.Addbutter,1pieceatatime,andcombineuntilmixtureresemblescoarsesand.Addeggs,1atatime,andmixuntilcombined.Addmilkandvanilla,increasespeedtomedium,andmixuntillightandfluffyandnolumpsremain,about3minutes.

5.Fillmuffincupsthree-quartersfullofbatter(donotoverfill).Bakeuntiltoothpickinsertedincenterofcupcakecomesoutclean,18to20minutes.Letcupcakescoolinpanfor5minutes,thentransferthemtowireracktocoolcompletely.

6.FORTHEGLAZE:Cookcream,cornsyrup,chocolate,andvanillainsmallsaucepanovermediumheat,stirringconstantly,untilsmooth.Setglazeasidetocoolandthickenfor30minutes.

7.Inserttipofsmallknifeat45-degreeangleabout¼inchfromedgeofcupcakeandcutallthewayaround.Removeconeandcutawayallbuttop¼inch,leavingsmalldiskofcake.Fillcupcakewith2tablespoonspastrycreamandtopwithdiskofcake.Withcupcakesonwireracksetoverparchmentpaper,spoonglazeovereachcupcake,allowingittodripdownsides.Refrigeratecupcakesuntilglazeisjustset,about10minutes.(Cupcakescanberefrigeratedinairtightcontainerforupto2days;bringto

roomtemperaturebeforeserving.)

FILLINGBOSTONCREAMCUPCAKES

1.Insertknifetipat45-degreeangle¼inchfromcupcakeedge,cutallthewayaround,andremoveconeofcake.

2.Cutoffallbuttop¼inchofcone,leavingonlysmalldiskofcake.Fillcupcakeandcoverfillingwithcakedisk.

WELLESLEYFUDGECAKE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Forcentury-oldWellesleyfudgecaketomakeanimpactonmodernpalatesaccustomedtoramped-upchocolateflavorandsilkenganaches(nottomentionhigh-qualitychocolate),weneededathick,extra-fudgyfrostingandarichbutsturdycaketosupportitsweight.Startingwiththecake,weturnedtoall-purposeflourformorestructureandcocoapowderfordeepchocolateflavor,whichdeepenedfurtherwhenwhiskedwithhotwater.Forthesignaturefrosting,wecreatedacaramel-likebaseofevaporatedmilk,butter,andsugar.Weoptedforlightbrownsugarovergranulatedforitsresistancetocrystallizingduringcooking.Stirringinmorebutterandevaporatedmilkofftheheatcooledthebaseandpreventedthebittersweetchocolate’sfatfromseparatingandturninggrainy.Addingsifted

chocolate’sfatfromseparatingandturninggrainy.Addingsiftedconfectioners’sugarandcoolingthemixturethickenedthefrostingtoaspreadableconsistency.Refrigeratingtheicedcakeforanhourmadeforeasyslicing.

2 teaspoonsbakingsoda

1 teaspoonbakingpowder

teaspoonsalt

cuphotwater

½ cup(1½ounces)unsweetenedcocoapowder

2cups(14ounces)granulatedsugar

2 largeeggs

WELLESLEYFUDGECAKE

SERVES12

WepreferDutch-processedcocoapowderhere,butnaturalcocoapowdercanalsobeused.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 cupbuttermilk,roomtemperature

2 teaspoonsvanillaextract

FROSTING

1½ cupspacked(10½ounces)lightbrownsugar

1 cupevaporatedmilk

teaspoonsalt

3cups(12ounces)confectioners’sugar,sifted

1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Greaseandflourtwo8-inchsquarecakepans.Combineflour,bakingsoda,bakingpowder,andsaltinbowl;setaside.Insmallbowl,whiskhotwaterandcocoatogetheruntilsmooth;setaside.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugartogetheronmedium-highspeeduntilpaleandfluffy,about3minutes.Addeggs,1atatime,andbeatuntilcombined.Reducespeedtolowandaddflourmixturein3additions,alternatingwithbuttermilkin2additions,scrapingdownbowlasneeded.Slowlyaddcocoamixtureandvanillaandmixuntilincorporated.Givebatterfinalstirbyhand.

2.Dividebatterevenlybetweenpreparedpansandsmoothtopswithrubberspatula.Bakeuntiltoothpickinsertedincentercomesoutwithfewcrumbsattached,25to30minutes,rotatingpanshalfwaythroughbaking.Letcakescoolinpansonwirerackfor15minutes.Removecakesfrompansandletcoolcompletelyonrack,about2hours.

3.FORTHEFROSTING:Heatbrownsugar,½cupevaporatedmilk,4tablespoonsbutter,andsaltinlargesaucepanovermediumheatuntilsmallbubblesappeararoundperimeterofpan,4to8minutes.Reduceheattolowandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untillargebubblesformandmixturehasthickenedandturneddeepgoldenbrown,about6minutes.Transfertolargebowl.Stirinremaining½cupevaporatedmilkandremaining4tablespoonsbutteruntilmixtureisslightlycooled.Addchocolateandvanillaandstiruntilsmooth.Whiskinconfectioners’sugaruntilincorporated.Letcoolcompletely,stirringoccasionally,about1hour.

4.Lineedgesofcakeplatterwith4stripsofparchmentpapertokeepplatterclean.Place1cakelayeronplatter.Spread1cupfrostingevenlyovertop,righttoedgeofcake.Topwithsecondcakelayerandpresslightlytoadhere.Spreadremainingfrostingevenlyovertopandsidesofcake.Refrigeratecakeuntilfrostingisset,about1hour.Carefullyremoveparchmentstripsbeforeserving.

COLLEGECONTRABAND

Unbelievableasitmaysound,roughly100yearsago,fudge(yes,fudge)wasacontrabandtreatcovetedbyWellesleyCollegestudentsinMassachusetts.Thegirlswereexpectedtostickto“plain”foodandavoidsweets,ascollegefounderHenryFowleDurantheldthat“pies,lies,anddoughnutsshouldneverhaveaplaceinWellesleyCollege.”Butthestudentsheldsecretfudge-makingpartiesintheirdormroomsand,accordingtoanundatednewspaperarticle,“putongreatairsovertheirskillinmakingfudge.”Within10years,severaltearoomsinthetownofWellesleywereknownfortheirWellesleyfudgecake,withitslusciousfudgefrosting,andrecipesforthecakeproliferated.

BEESTINGCAKE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

OnceaGermanbakeryfavoriteinQueens,NewYork,bienenstich,orbeestingcake,boastslightlysweet,yeastedcake,creamyfilling,andacrunchyhoney-almondcrown.Wefounditsstickydoughbestsuitedtoabrioche-makingmethod:combiningwetanddryingredientsbeforekneadinginbutter(awholestickforextrarichness)atablespoonatatime.Aswithallyeasteddoughs,thiscakerequirestworisesbeforebaking.Afterlettingthedoughrise,wepresseditintoacakepan,pierceditwithaforktoeliminateairbubbles,andletitriseagain.Tocreatethesignaturehoney-almondtopping,weboiledbutter,honey,sugar,andsaltbeforestirringinslicedalmonds.Thecakebakedtoagorgeousgoldenbrown,andonceithad

cooled,weusedatrickborrowedfrombakerNickMalgieritoassembleit:Aftersplittingthecakeinhalfandcoveringthebottomwithpastrycream—alushvanillacustardstabilizedwithalittlegelatin—weslicedthetopinto12wedgesandreassembleditoverthefilling.Thisstepensuredacleanslicethroughthecreamandbottomlayer.Ourbuzz-worthycakewasabeautytobeholdandithadthesweetnesstomatch.

PASTRYCREAM

1 teaspoonunflavoredgelatin

1 tablespoonwater

6 largeeggyolks

½ cup(3½ounces)sugar¼

teaspoonsalt

cupsmilk

¼ cup(1ounce)cornstarch

BEESTINGCAKE

SERVES12

Ifyourcakepanisdark,startcheckingthecakeafter25minutesinstep7.Ifthesidesofyourpanarelessthan2½incheshigh,bakethecakeonafoil–linedrimmedbakingsheettocatchdrips.Thepastrycreamanddoughrequire3hoursofpreptime.

1 tablespoonvanillaextract

cupmilk

1largeeggplus2largeyolks

2¾ cups(13¾ounces)all-purposeflour¼ cup(1¾ounces)sugar2¼ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast½

teaspoonsalt

TOPPING

cuphoney

2 tablespoonssugar

teaspoonsalt

cupblanchedslicedalmonds

1.FORTHEPASTRYCREAM:Sprinklegelatinoverwaterinsmallbowlandletsituntilgelatinsoftens,about5minutes.Whiskeggyolks,sugar,andsaltinmediumbowluntilpaleyellow.Whisk¼cupmilkandcornstarchintoeggmixtureuntilsmooth.Heatremaining1½cupsmilkinmediumsaucepanovermediumheatuntilhotbutnotsimmering.Slowlywhiskhotmilkintoeggmixture.

2.Transfereggmixturebacktosaucepanandcookovermedium-lowheat,whiskingconstantly,untilmixturethickenstopuddingconsistency,about5minutes.Offheat,vigorouslywhiskingelatinmixtureuntildissolved.(Ifpastrycreamislumpy,strainthroughfine-meshstrainer.)Transferpastrycreamtocleanbowlandwhiskinbutterandvanilla.Coverandrefrigerateuntilfirm,atleast3hoursorupto24hours.

3.FORTHECAKE:Greaselargebowl.Whiskmilkandeggandyolkstogetherin2-cupliquidmeasuringcupuntilcombined.Usingstandmixerfittedwithdoughhook,mixflour,sugar,yeast,andsalttogetheronmedium-lowspeeduntilcombined,about5seconds.Withmixerrunning,slowlyaddmilkmixtureandkneaduntilcohesivedoughformsandnodryflourremains,3to5minutes,scrapingdownbowlanddoughhookasneeded.

4.Withmixerstillrunning,addbutter1pieceatatimeuntilincorporated.Continuekneadinguntildoughisuniformlycombined,8to10minutes(doughwillbestickyandwillnotcompletelyclearsidesofbowl).Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneaduntilsmooth,about1minute.Formdoughintotightballandtransfertogreasedbowl,turningtocoat.Coverwithplasticwrapandletriseatroomtemperatureuntilnearlydoubledinsize,1to1½hours.

5.Greaselight-colored9-inchroundcakepan,linewithparchmentpaper,andgreaseparchment.Transferdoughtolightlyflouredcounterandpressinto9-inchround.Transferdoughtopreparedpanandpressinevenlayertoedgesofpan.Usingfork,pokedoughallover.Coverpanlooselywithplasticandletriseatroomtemperatureuntilpuffy,35to50minutes.(Afterrising,doughandpancanbewrappedtightlyinplasticandrefrigeratedfor

upto24hours.Letdoughcometoroomtemperaturebeforebaking.)6.FORTHETOPPING:Meanwhile,bringbutter,honey,sugar,andsalttoboilinsmallsaucepanovermediumheat,stirringoften.Onceboiling,stirinalmondsandremovefromheat.

7.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Spreadalmondmixtureevenlyovertopofdough.Bakeuntiltoppingisdeepgoldenbrown,30to40minutes,rotatingpanhalfwaythroughbaking.Letcakecoolinpanonwirerackfor20minutes.Removecakefrompanandletcoolcompletelyonrack,about2hours.

8.Stirchilledpastrycreamwithforktoloosen.Transfercaketocuttingboardtoppingsideup.Usinglongserratedknife,splitcakeinhalfhorizontally.Transfercakebottomtoservingplatterandspreadpastrycreamevenlyovercutside.Cutcaketopinto12wedgesandreassembleontopofpastrycream.Toserve,usecutsintoplayerasguidetoslicecakeinto12pieces.

CRANBERRYUPSIDE-DOWNCAKE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSForcranberryupside-downcakethatlooksasgoodasittastes,weneededacohesivesweet-tarttoppingandasturdybuttendercaketosupportit.Groundalmondscreatedacakewithahearty,coarsecrumb,stableenoughtobeartheberries’weight,andwhippedeggwhitesfoldedintothebatterkeptthetexturelight.Forthetopping,webrieflycookedthecranberrieswithfruitflavor–boostingraspberryjamandsugaronthestovetoptoevaporatesomeofthemoistureandthenstrainedandreducedthejuicesintoaconcentratedsyrup.Turningthecakeoutofitspanbeforeitwasfullycooledpreventedthetoppingfromstickingtothebottom,ensuringanattractiveruby-reddessert.

TOPPING

3cupsfreshordefrostedfrozencranberries

¾ cup(5¼ounces)sugar

2 tablespoonsseedlessraspberryjam

cupblanchedsliveredalmonds

1cup(5ounces)all-purposeflour

CRANBERRYUPSIDE-DOWNCAKE

SERVES8

Topreventthiscakefromsticking,donotletitcoolinthepanformorethan10minutesbeforeturningitout.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

teaspoonsalt

cupmilk

teaspoonalmondextract

¾ cup(5¼ounces)sugar

3largeeggs,separated

1.FORTHETOPPING:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Greaseandflour9-inchroundcakepan,linewithparchmentpaper,andspraywithvegetableoilspray.Meltbutterinlargenonstickskilletovermediumheat.Addcranberries,sugar,andjamandcookuntilcranberriesarejustsoftened,about4minutes.Straincranberrymixtureoverbowl,reservingjuices.

2.Addstrainedjuicestonow-emptyskilletandsimmerovermediumheatuntilsyrupyandreducedto1cup,about4minutes.Offheat,stirinvanilla.Arrangestrainedberriesinsinglelayerinpreparedpan.Pourjuicemixtureoverberriesandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

3.FORTHECAKE:Processalmondsand¼cupflourinfoodprocessoruntilfinelyground,about10seconds.Addremaining¾cupflour,bakingpowder,andsaltandpulsetocombine.Whiskmilkandextractstogetherinmeasuringcup.Instandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutterandsugartogetheruntilfluffy,about2minutes.Beatineggyolks,1atatime,untilcombined.Reducespeedtolowandaddflourmixturein3additions,alternatingwith2additionsofmilkmixture.

4.Usingcleanbowlandbeaters,beateggwhitesonmedium-highspeeduntiltheyholdsoftpeaks,about2minutes.Whiskone-thirdofwhitesintobatter,thenfoldinremainingwhites.Pourbatteroverchilledcranberrymixtureandbakeuntiltoothpickinsertedincentercomesoutclean,35to40minutes.Coolonwirerackfor10minutes,thenrunparingknifearoundcakeandinvertontoservingplatter.Serve.

ACLEANTURNOUT

Ourcranberryupside-downcakeisarealshowstopper—ifitcomesoutofthepancleanly.Toensurethatthishappens,allowthecaketocoolfor10minutes,thengentlyrunthetipofaparingknifearoundtheoutsideofthecooledcake.

1.Covercakewithcleanservingplateandinvert.

2.Usingstraightupwardmotion,carefullyremovecakepan,shakinggentlyasneededtogetcleanreleaseofcakeandtopping.

MAPLESYRUPPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ForthisclassicNewEnglandfavorite,wewantedapiewithmajormapleflavorandalush,smoothtexture.Cookingthesyrup,cream,butter,andcornstarchonthestovetopprovedthebestwaytocreatearich,balancedfilling.Usingcornstarchinsteadofflourcreatedacreamierconsistencyandmadethepieeasytoslice.Tokeepthepie’ssweetnessincheckwithoutsacrificinganymapleflavor,weturnedtoatestkitchentrick:addinganacidicingredient.Stirring2teaspoonsoftangycidervinegarintoourfillingproducedremarkableresults:Thattouchofaciditybrightenedthemaple,bringingittotheforefrontwhereitbelonged.Adollopofhomemadecrèmefraîcheofferedasmooth,mildlytartfinish.

1¼ cups(6¼ounces)all-purposeflour

1 tablespoonsugar

teaspoonsalt

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto¼-inchpiecesandchilled

tablespoonsicewater

FILLING

cupspuremaplesyrup

MAPLESYRUPPIE

SERVES8

Homemadecrusttastesthebest,butyoucanusestore-boughtpiedoughinthisrecipe.ServewithCrèmeFraîche.

cupheavycream

teaspoonsalt

2 tablespoonscornstarch

3largeeggsplus2largeyolks

1.FORTHECRUST:Processflour,sugar,andsaltinfoodprocessoruntilcombined,about5seconds.Scattershorteningovertopandprocessuntilmixtureresemblescoarsecornmeal,about10seconds.Scatterbutterovertopandpulseuntilmixtureresemblescoarsecrumbs,about10pulses.Transfertobowl.

2.Sprinkle3tablespoonsicewateroverflourmixture.Usingrubberspatula,stirandpressdoughuntilitstickstogether.Ifdoughdoesnotcometogether,stirinremaining1tablespoonicewater.Flattendoughinto4-inchdisk,wraptightlyinplasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor1hour.(Wrappeddoughcanberefrigeratedforupto2daysorfrozenforupto1month.Iffrozen,letdoughthawcompletelyoncounterbeforerolling.)Letchilleddoughsitoncountertosoftenslightly,about10minutes,beforerolling.

3.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento375degrees.Grease9-inchpieplate.Rolldoughinto12-inchcircleonlightlyflouredcounter.Looselyrolldougharoundrollingpinandgentlyunrollitontopreparedpieplate,lettingexcessdoughhangoveredge.Easedoughintoplatebygentlyliftingedgeofdoughwith1handwhilepressingintoplatebottomwithyourotherhand.

4.Trimoverhangto½inchbeyondlipofpieplate.Tuckoverhangunderitself;foldededgeshouldbeflushwithedgeofpieplate.Crimpdoughevenlyaroundedgeofpieplateusingyourfingers.Wrapdough-linedpieplatelooselyinplasticandfreezeuntildoughisfirm,about30minutes.

5.Linechilledpieshellwithparchmentpaperordoublelayerofaluminumfoil,coveringedgestopreventburning,andfillwithpieweights.Bakeuntiledgesarelightgoldenbrown,18to25minutes,rotatingpieplatehalfwaythroughbaking.Removeweightsandparchmentandcontinuetobakeuntilcenterbeginstolookopaqueandslightlydrier,3to6minutes.Removefromovenandletcoolforatleast30minutes.(Baked,cooledcrustcanbewrappedinplasticandstoredatroomtemperatureforupto24hours.)6.FORTHEFILLING:Reduceoventemperatureto350degrees.Bringmaplesyrup,cream,andsalttoboilinmediumsaucepan.Addbutterandwhiskuntilmelted.Reduceheattomedium-lowandwhiskincornstarch.

Bringtosimmerandcookfor1minute,whiskingfrequently.Transfertolargebowlandletcoolforatleast30minutes.Whiskineggsandyolksandvinegaruntilsmooth.(Cooledfillingcanberefrigeratedforupto24hours.Whisktorecombineandproceedwithstep7,increasingbakingtimeto55to65minutes.)7.Placecooledcrustonrimmedbakingsheetandpourfillingintocrust.Bakeuntiljustset,35to45minutes.Letpiecoolcompletelyonwirerack,about2hours.Transfertorefrigeratorandchilluntilfullyset,atleast2hoursorupto24hours.Servecoldoratroomtemperature.

1cuppasteurizedheavycream,roomtemperature

2tablespoonsbuttermilk,roomtemperature

CRÈMEFRAÎCHE

MAKES1CUP

Theidealtemperatureforthecrèmefraîchetocultureis75degrees.Itwillworkatlowertemperaturesbutmaytakeupto36hours.

Combinecreamandbuttermilkin1-pintjar.Coverjarwithtriplelayerofcheeseclothandsecurewithrubberband.Letsitinwarmplace(about75degrees)untilthickenedbutstillpourable,12to24hours.Stirtorecombine.Serve.(Crèmefraîchecanberefrigeratedforupto1month.)

MARLBOROUGHAPPLEPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Marlboroughpie,thelesser-knownopen-facedNewEnglandpie,combinesthecomfortingapple-and-spiceflavorsoftraditionalapplepiewithsweetcustard.Pre–CivilWarbakersturnedoutthesepiesasatastywaytouseupthebruised,agingapplesfromtheirrootcellars.Lookingtomimicthesamebracingtangstraightfromthesupermarket,weworkedwithamixofGrannySmiths(fortartflavorthatdoesn’tquit)andFuji,Gala,orGoldenDelicious(forcontrastingsweetness).Wegratedourapples,thensautéedtheminbuttertodrawoutmoistureandconcentratetheappleflavor.Prebakingthepiecrustfurtherguaranteedaflaky,crispshell.Lemonzestcontributedenoughtangtothefillingwithoutbecomingbitter,andsherry,cinnamon,andmaceroundedoutthepie’srichspicedflavor.Bakingthepie

cinnamon,andmaceroundedoutthepie’srichspicedflavor.Bakingthepieatagentle325degreeskeptthefillingfromcurdling,resultinginacreamy,sweetlyboozyapplepie.

1 tablespoonsugar

teaspoonsalt

tablespoonsicewater

FILLING

MARLBOROUGHAPPLEPIE

SERVES8

Homemadecrusttastesthebest,butyoucanusestore-boughtpiedoughinthisrecipe;prebakeitaccordingtothepackageinstructions.Shredtheapplesonthelargeholesofaboxgrater.Storethepieintherefrigeratorforupto24hours.

2GrannySmithapples,peeledandshredded(2cups)

2Fuji,Gala,orGoldenDeliciousapples,peeledandshredded(2cups)

½ cup(3½ounces)sugar¼

teaspoongroundcinnamon

teaspoongroundmace

teaspoonsalt

3largeeggs,lightlybeaten

cupheavycream

5 tablespoonsdrysherry

1 teaspoongratedlemonzest

2.Sprinkle3tablespoonsicewateroverflourmixture.Usingrubberspatula,stirandpressdoughuntilitstickstogether.Ifdoughdoesnotcometogether,stirinremaining1tablespoonicewater.Flattendoughinto4-inchdisk,wraptightlyinplasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor1hour.(Wrappeddoughcanberefrigeratedforupto2daysorfrozenforupto1month.Iffrozen,letdoughthawcompletelyoncounterbeforerolling.)Letchilleddoughsitoncountertosoftenslightly,about10minutes,beforerolling.

3.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento375degrees.Grease9-inchpieplate.Rolldoughinto12-inchcircleonlightlyflouredcounter.Looselyrolldougharoundrollingpinandgentlyunrollitontopreparedpieplate,lettingexcessdoughhangoveredge.Easedoughintoplatebygentlyliftingedgeofdoughwith1handwhilepressingintoplatebottomwithyourotherhand.

5.Linechilledpieshellwithparchmentpaperordoublelayerofaluminumfoil,coveringedgestopreventburning,andfillwithpieweights.

6.Bakeuntilpiedoughlooksdryandislightincolor,25to30minutes.Transferpieplatetowirerackandremoveweightsandparchment.(Crustmuststillbewarmwhenfillingisadded.)7.FORTHEFILLING:Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandreduceoventemperatureto325degrees.Meltbutterin12-inchskilletovermediumheat.Addapplesandcook,stirringfrequently,untilpanisdryandappleshavesoftened,12to14minutes.Transferapplestobowlandletcooltoroomtemperature,about20minutes.

8.Whisksugar,cinnamon,mace,andsalttogetherinlargebowl.Addeggs,cream,sherry,lemonzest,andvanillaandwhiskuntilsmooth.Addcooledapplesandstirtocombine.

9.Pourmixtureintopieshellandbakeuntilcenterisjustset,about40minutes.Coolcompletelyonwirerack,about4hours.Serve.

SUMMERBLUEBERRYCRUMBLE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Manyblueberrycrumblesareplaguedbysoupyfillingsthatturntheircrunchytoppingsintomush—amajormisuseofsummer’sfreshblueberrycrop.Lookingforastreamlinedrecipethatallowedjuicy,ripeblueberriestoshinewithoutdrowningthestreuseltopping,wekeptourfillingsimple.Sugarandapinchofsaltprovedtobealltheseasoningweneeded,andcornstarchthickenedthefillingwithoutmutingtheflavoroftheberries.Forourtopping,wewantedanextra-chunkystreuselthatwouldstaycrunchyontopoftheberries,sowepulsedflour,butter,brownsugar,oats,andatouchofcinnamoninthefoodprocessoruntillargedime-sizecrumblesformed.Wepinchedanypowderybitstogetherwithourfingersbeforesprinklingthetoppingovertheberryfilling.After30minutesintheoven,ourcrumble

toppingovertheberryfilling.After30minutesintheoven,ourcrumbleemergedbrownedandbubbling,thestreuselstillcrispatopthejuicy,deeppurplefilling.

½ cup(3½ounces)granulatedsugar

4 teaspoonscornstarch

25ounces(5cups)blueberries

⅔ cup(3⅓ounces)all-purposeflour½ cup(1½ounces)old-fashionedrolledoats⅓ cuppacked(2⅓ounces)lightbrownsugar½

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto6piecesandchilled

SUMMERBLUEBERRYCRUMBLE

SERVES6

Avoidinstantorquickoatshere—theyaretoosoftandwillmakethecrumblemushy.Instep2,donotpressthetoppingintotheberrymixtureoritmaysinkandbecomesoggy.Frozenberriesdonotworkinthisrecipebecausetheyshedtoomuchliquid.Servewithvanillaicecreamorlightlysweetenedwhippedcream.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento375degrees.Whiskgranulatedsugar,cornstarch,and⅛teaspoonsalttogetherinlargebowl.Addblueberriestobowlandtosstocoat.Transferto8-inchsquarebakingdish.

2.Pulseflour,oats,brownsugar,cinnamon,and⅛teaspoonsaltinfoodprocessoruntilcombined,about5pulses.Scatterbutterovertopandpulseuntildime-sizeclumpsform,about15pulses.Transfertoppingtobowlandpinchtogetheranypowderyparts.Sprinkletoppingevenlyoverblueberries.

3.Bakeuntilfillingisbubblingaroundedgesandtoppingisgoldenbrown,about30minutes,rotatingdishhalfwaythroughbaking.Transferdishtowirerackandletcoolforatleast30minutesbeforeserving.(Whencompletelycool,crumblecanbewrappedinplasticwrapandrefrigeratedforupto24hours.Letcrumblesitatroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforeserving.)

CRUMBLEWITHOUTAFOODPROCESSOR

Instep2,mixflour,oats,brownsugar,cinnamon,and⅛teaspoonsalttogetherinlargebowl.Addchilledbuttertobowland,usingpastryblenderor2knives,cutbutterintodryingredientsuntildime-sizeclumpsform.Pinchtogetheranypowderyparts,thensprinklecrumbsevenlyoverberries.Proceedwithrecipeasdirected.

FRUITFORDESSERT

Thereisanastonishingarrayofold-fashionedAmericandessertsthatconsistoffruitbakedwithoats,bread,cakecrumbs,flourandbutter,andthelike.Thesedessertswereaneasywayforfrugalcookstouseupstaleleftoverswhileprovidingabitofvarietyintermsoftextureandflavor.Mostofthesesimpledessertshavefunnynamesthatarehardtokeepstraight.Whileregionaldifferencesexist,mostAmericancookbooksagreeonthefollowingformulations:

BETTY:Fruitcombinedwithbutteredbreadorcakecrumbsandbaked.Similartoacrisp,exceptthatthecrumbsareusuallylayeredwiththefruitinsteadofplacedontop.

BUCKLE:Fruitmixedwithsimpleyellowcakebatterandbaked.Cakebattercanbetoppedwithstreuselcrumbs.

COBBLER:Fruittoppedwithacrust,whichcanbemadefromcookiedough,piepastry,orbiscuittopping,andbaked.

CRUMBLE:Fruittoppedwitha“rubbed”mixtureofoats,butter,sugar,andflour,thenbaked.

GRUNT:Fruittoppedwithbiscuitdough,covered,andbakedsothatthebiscuitssteamratherthanbake.Thetextureisakintothatofdumplingsandisoftengummy.Alsocalledaslump.

PANDOWDY:Fruitcoveredwithpastrydoughandbaked.Thedoughiscut,scored,andpressedintothefruit.Sometimesthecrustispressedintothefruitduringbaking;otherrecipes“dowdy”thecrustafterbaking.

LEMONSNOW

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Wethoughtthisretrolemonfoam“snow”dessertdeservedsomereviving.Westartedwithfreshlemons—acombinationoflemonzestandfreshjuicegavethesnowabright,pleasantlytartbite.Wewhiskedthezestandjuiceintodissolvedgelatinand,onceitwasset,whippedthelemongelatinwitheggwhites,creatingalight,creamyfoamthatresembledfreshsnowdrifts.Forthecustardtopping,weusedtheeggyolksleftfromthefoam,whiskingthemwithsugarandsaltbeforetemperingthemwithboilingmilk.Atablespoonofbutteraddedrichnesstothecustardandthickeneditintoacreamysaucetospoonoverourairydessert.

LEMONSNOW

cupcoldwater

2 teaspoonsunflavoredgelatin

1 cupboilingwater

1cup(7ounces)sugar

1teaspoongratedlemonzestplus⅓cupjuice(2lemons)

Pinchsalt

LEMONSNOW

SERVES8TO10

Ifyou’reconcernedabouteatingraweggwhites,usepasteurizedshelleggs.Planahead,asboththegelatinmixtureandthe“snow”needtochill.Toreducethechillingtime,placethebowlwiththegelatinmixtureoverasecond,largerbowloficewaterandstiroccasionally.Tomakeorangesnow,useorangejuiceandzestinplaceofthelemon.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

3 largeeggwhites

CUSTARDSAUCE

3 largeeggyolks

¼ cup(1¾ounces)sugar

Pinchsalt

cupswholemilk

1.FORTHELEMONSNOW:Placecoldwaterinmediumbowl.Sprinklegelatinoverwaterandletsituntilgelatinsoftens,about5minutes.Whiskboilingwaterintomixtureuntilgelatindissolves.Whisksugar,lemonzestandjuice,andsaltintogelatinmixtureuntildissolved.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilcoolandslightlygelatinous,about2hours.

2.Combineeggwhitesandgelatinmixtureinbowlofstandmixerfittedwithwhisk.Whiponmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtomedium-highandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,11to14minutes.Scrapelemonsnowintobowl,ordivideamongdessertglasses,andrefrigerateuntilset,about2hours.

3.FORTHECUSTARD:Whiskeggyolks,sugar,andsalttogetherinbowluntilcombined.Bringmilktoboilinsmallsaucepan.Slowlystirmilkintoyolkmixturewithwoodenspoon.Returnmilk-yolkmixturetopot,reduceheattolow,andcook,stirringconstantly,untilsauceisslightlythickenedandregisters175to180degrees,2to4minutes.Pourthroughfine-meshstrainerinto2-cupliquidmeasuringcup.Stirinbutterandvanillauntilincorporated.Refrigerateuntilcoolandservewithlemonsnow.

THEORIGINAL“EGGBEATERS”

Whenwesaylemonsnow,wemeanachilled,gelatin-setlemonfoamtoppedwithasweet,egg-thickenedcreamsauce.Butasitturnsout,“snow”wasn’talwaysjustametaphor.Beforetheuseofstifflybeateneggwhitesbecamecommon—beatingeggswasslowgoinginthedayswhenabundleoftwigswasusedforawhisk—freshlyfallensnowwasoftenbeatenwithcreamandflavoringstocreateacool,lightdessertpudding.Andthatwasn’ttheonlywayinventivecookshandledsnowinthekitchen.Accordingtoseveralearly19th-centurycookbookauthors,notablyMariaRundell,snowwasquiteuseful.“Snowisanexcellentsubstituteforeggs,eitherinpuddingsorpancakes,”shewroteinANewSystemofDomesticCookery(1808).“Twolargespoonfulswillsupplytheplaceofoneegg,andthearticleitisusedinwillbeequallygood.”Thismayhavebeentrueinthe19thcentury,wheneggswerefewandfarbetweeninthewinter,butsincewecanbuyeggsatthesupermarketwheneverweplease,wethinkwe’llleavethesnowwhereitbelongs:outside.

1.MEMPHISSPARERIBS,MEMPHIS,TN

2.THOROUGHBREDPIE,LOUISVILLE,KY

3.WESTVIRGINIAPEPPERONIROLLS,FAIRMONT,WV

4.MARYLANDCRABFLUFF,BALTIMORE,MD

5.MAQUECHOUX,SOUTHERNLOUISIANA6.BLACKBERRYJAMCAKE,APPALACHIANMOUNTAINS

7.CREAMCHEESEBISCUITS,CHARLESTON,SC

8.SOUTHCAROLINASHRIMPBOIL,SOUTHCAROLINACOAST

CHAPTER2:APPALACHIAANDTHESOUTH

PimentoCheeseburgers

NewOrleansMuffulettas

FootballSandwichesPastramiandSwissFootballSandwiches

WestVirginiaPepperoniRolls

MarylandCrabFluffCocktailSauce

OysterPo’Boys

MaqueChouxwithShrimp

SenateNavyBeanSoup

KentuckyBurgoo

AuthenticMarylandFriedChickenandGravy

CarolinaChickenBog

CountryCaptainChicken

ChickenBonneFemme

MemphisSpareribs

PorkChopswithTomatoGravy

CountryHamJezebelSauce

BiscuitDressing

FriedCatfishComebackSauce

SouthCarolinaShrimpBurgers

PerfectShrimpJambalaya

SouthCarolinaShrimpBoil

ShrimpÉtoufféeWhiteRice

Southern-StyleGreenBeans

BakedCheeseGrits

FriedGreenTomatoes

CaramelTomatoes

CarolinaRedSlaw

LowcountryRedRice

DirtyRice

RedBeansandRice

Hoppin’John

HamSteakwithRed-EyeGravyShort-OrderHomeFries

HushpuppiesCornandRedPepperHushpuppiesCrabandChiveHushpuppiesHamandCheddarHushpuppies

BiscuitsandSausageGravy

SweetPotatoBiscuits

CreamCheeseBiscuitsChocolateGravy

Cracklin’Cornbread

BlackberryJamCake

MoravianSugarCake

JeffersonDavisPieBourbonWhippedCream

FudgyTarHeelPie

PeanutButterPiewithChocolateGrahamCrustHomemadeCandiedPeanuts

ThoroughbredPie

GrasshopperPie

ButtermilkPie

CarolinaSweetPotatoSonker

FINDALOCALHOTSPOT

PIMENTOCHEESEBURGERS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

TheoriginalrecipesforSouthCarolina’sfamouspimentocheeseburgersareunderlockandkey,soweletourmemoriesoftheburgersweateinColumbia,SouthCarolina,leadtheway.Tostart,webypassedstore-boughtpimentocheeseforourownblendofgratedextra-sharpcheddar,choppedpimentos,cayennepepper,mayo,anddrymustard.Thoughseasoninggroundbeefwithsalt,pepper,andWorcestershireturnedouttastypatties,wewantedourcreamypimentocheesetobefrontandcenter,sowemixedhalfofourcheeseintoballsandfrozethemforeasierpattyshaping.Cuttingtheusualmayofromourcheesecenterensuredthatwedidn’tburnourchinswithaspurtofhotcheese—usingslow-meltingcreamcheeseinsteadkeptthescorchingoozeatbay.Wespliteachpattyinhalfandsealedthepimento

thescorchingoozeatbay.Wespliteachpattyinhalfandsealedthepimentocheeseinthemiddle,thenflattenedthepatty.Withthisdoubledoseofsweet-and-spicyhomemadepimentocheesebothtoppingandfillingourperfectlyseasonedburgers,wecouldhardlykeepthisrecipeasecret.

PIMENTOCHEESE

6ouncesextra-sharpcheddarcheese,shredded(1½cups)

⅓ cupjarredpimentos,choppedfine

2ouncescreamcheese,softened

teaspoondrymustard

1 tablespoonmayonnaise

HAMBURGERS

PIMENTOCHEESEBURGERS

SERVES4

Stickwith85percentleangroundbeefhere,sinceleanermeatislikelytodryout.Allowthecookedcheeseburgerstorestforafull5minutes(tentedwithaluminumfoil)beforeeatingthem,orthehot,cheesycenterwillspurtout.Ifyoulikeyourburgermoreorlessdone,adjustthecookingtimesaccordingly.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1½ pounds85percentleangroundbeef

1 tablespoonWorcestershiresauce

teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

4 hamburgerbuns

1.FORTHEPIMENTOCHEESE:Mixcheddar,pimentos,creamcheese,mustard,andcayennetogetherinbowluntilwellcombined.Dropfour2-tablespoonportionsofcheddarmixtureonplateandlightlyflattenwithyourpalm.Coverplatetightlywithplasticwrapandfreezeuntilcheeseisfirm,atleast2hours.Combineremainingcheddarmixturewithmayonnaise,coverbowlwithplastic,andrefrigerate.

2.FORTHEHAMBURGERS:Combinebeef,Worcestershire,salt,andpepperinlargebowlandgentlykneaduntilwellcombined.Dividemeatinto4equalportions.Divideeachportionofmeatinhalfandwrap1halfportionaroundeachdiskoffrozencheese,takingcaretocompletelyandsnuglyenclosecheese.Moldremaininghalfportionsofmeataroundminipattiesandtightlysealedges.Gentlyanduniformlyflatteneachpattyto1-inchthickness.

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placepattiesongrillandcookwithoutpressingonthemuntilwellbrownedonfirstside,3to4minutes.Flipburgersandcookonsecondsideuntilcookedthrough,3to4minutes.

5.Distributecheddar-mayonnaisemixtureevenlyontopofburgers,cover,andcookuntilmixtureisslightlymelted,about1minute.Transferburgerstoplate,tentwithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5minutes.Serveonhamburgerbuns.

BUILDABETTERPIMENTOCHEESEBURGER

Thehomemadepimentocheeseontopofourburgerswassotasty,wewantedevenmore—sowestuffedtheburgerswithextracheese.Butthere’snopointtostuffingtheburgersifthecheesedribbles(orgushes)awaywithyourfirstbite.Ourconstructiontechniqueformsburgerswithatightseal.

1.Divideeachportionofmeatin2andwraphalfaround1diskoffrozencheese,takingcaretocompletelyandsnuglyenclosecheese.

2.Moldremaininghalfportionofmeataroundminipattyandtightlysealedges.Flattentoform1-inch-thickpatty.

NEWORLEANSMUFFULETTAS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Sincebitingintoourfirstmuffuletta,we’llneveragainlookatacold-cutsandwichthesameway.MuffulettasareFrenchQuarterfavoritesbecauseoftheirbrinyolivesaladpairedwithrichdelimeats,provolonecheese,andsesameseed–coveredbread.Forourcoldcuts,welayeredtheprovolonewiththreestandards:salami,mortadella,andcapicola(alternatingthemforgreatersandwichstability).Ourolivesaladcombinedgreenandblackolives,giardiniera,garlic,andcapers;rinsingthecapersandusingmoregreenolivesthanblackcontrolledthesalad’ssaltytaste.Toinfuseoursaladwithmorezest,weaddedredwinevinegar,oregano,andthyme.Afterprocessingtheseingredientsuntilcoarselychopped,addingoliveoilmadethesaladspreadable.Foreasymuffulettabread,weusedstore-boughtpizza

thesaladspreadable.Foreasymuffulettabread,weusedstore-boughtpizzadough,sprinklingitwithseedsandbakingitintoroundrolls.Afterslicingtheminhalf,wespreadthesaladonthecutsidesandlayeredthemeatsandcheese.Wewrappedthesandwichesinplasticwrapandpressedthemunderaweightedbakingsheetforcompact,sliceablemuffulettas.Thisalsoletthesalad’sjuicesseepintothebread,makingeverybiteaszestyasthelast.

2(1-pound)ballspizzadough

2 cupsdrainedjarredgiardiniera

1cuppimento-stuffedgreenolives

cuppittedkalamataolives

2tablespoonscapers,rinsed

1 tablespoonredwinevinegar

1garlicclove,minced

NEWORLEANSMUFFULETTAS

SERVES8

Usingstore-boughtpizzadoughmakesforeasyhomemademuffulettabread.Youwillneedone16-ouncejarofgiardinieratoyield2cupsdrained.Ifyoulikeaspiciersandwich,increasetheamountofpepperflakesto½teaspoon.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

¼ teaspoonredpepperflakes

teaspoondriedthyme

½ cupextra-virginoliveoil¼

cupchoppedfreshparsley

1largeegg,lightlybeaten

5 teaspoonssesameseeds

4 ouncesthinlyslicedGenoasalami

6ouncesthinlyslicedagedprovolonecheese

6 ouncesthinlyslicedmortadella

4 ouncesthinlyslicedhotcapicola

1.Formdoughballsinto2tightroundballsonoiledbakingsheet,coverlooselywithgreasedplasticwrap,andletsitatroomtemperaturefor1hour.

2.Meanwhile,pulsegiardiniera,greenolives,kalamataolives,capers,vinegar,garlic,oregano,pepperflakes,andthymeinfoodprocessoruntilcoarselychopped,about6pulses,scrapingdownsidesofbowlasneeded.Transfertobowlandstirinoilandparsley.Letsitatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.(Olivesaladcanberefrigeratedforupto1week.)3.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento425degrees.Keepingdoughballsonsheet,flatteneachinto7-inchdisk.Brushtopsofdiskswitheggandsprinklewithsesameseeds.Bakeuntilgoldenbrownandloavessoundhollowwhentapped,18to20minutes,rotatingsheethalfwaythroughbaking.Transferloavestowirerackandletcoolcompletely,about1hour.(Loavescanbewrappedinplasticandstoredatroomtemperatureforupto24hours.)4.Sliceloavesinhalfhorizontally.Spreadone-fourthofolivesaladoncutsideofeachloaftopandbottom,pressingfirmlywithrubberspatulatocompact.Layer2ouncessalami,1½ouncesprovolone,3ouncesmortadella,1½ouncesprovolone,and2ouncescapicolainorderoneachloafbottom.Capwithloaftopsandindividuallywrapsandwichestightlyinplastic.

5.PlacebakingsheetontopofsandwichesandweighdownwithheavyDutchovenortwo5-poundbagsofflourorsugarfor1hour,flippingsandwicheshalfwaythroughpressing.Unwrapandsliceeachsandwichintoquartersandserve.(Pressed,wrappedsandwichescanberefrigeratedforupto24hours.Bringtoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.)

EATINGLOCAL NEWORLEANS,LA

LookingforaquicklunchintheFrenchQuarterofNewOrleans?CheckoutCENTRALGROCERYonDecaturStreet.Thesignature—andonly—sandwichservedthereisthemuffuletta,aheftyroundofseededbreadstuffedwithItalianmeats,cheeses,andolivespread.Andjustlikeeverysignaturesandwich,it’sgotanoriginstorytomatch.In1906,SalvatoreLupo,theownerofCentralGrocery,noticedSicilianimmigrantsontheirlunchbreakseatingmealsofmeats,cheeses,olives,andbread.Theenterprisinggrocerdecidedtosavetheworkerssometroublebyputtingallthecomponentstogetherinaconvenient,handheldsandwich.Thuswasbornthemuffuletta,namedaftertheroundSicilianbreadit’smadeonandservedatCentralGrocery—andelsewherealloverthecity—eversince.

CENTRALGROCERYANDDELI923DecaturSt.NewOrleans,LA

FOOTBALLSANDWICHES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Atfirstglance,footballsandwicheslooklikesimplehamsliders,butthesecrettotheirpopularityamongSouthernsportsfansliesinthesavory,butterypoppyseedsaucethatflavorstherolls.Tomakeoursauce,wechoppedandmicrowavedonionwithbutterandpoppyseeds.Worcestershireandgarlicwhiskedintothemeltedbuttermixtureenhancedthesavory-sweetflavorsofthesauce.Turningtotherolls,wearrangedthebottomsinabakingdishandlayeredmustard,ham,andSwissoneach,thenplacedthetopsonthesandwichesbeforebrushingeachwithpoppyseedsauce.Wespoonedtheremainingsauceoverallofthesandwichesandletthemsitfor10minutestosoakuptheflavors.Coveringandbakingthesandwichesfor20minutesmeltedthecheese;afewminutesuncoveredin

sandwichesfor20minutesmeltedthecheese;afewminutesuncoveredintheovencrispedthetopsnicely.Inalmostnotimeatall,oursandwichesemergedmelty,warm,andreadyforgameday.

12 squaresoftwhitedinnerrolls

6 tablespoonsyellowmustard

12thinslicesdeliBlackForestham(8ounces)

12thinslicesdeliSwisscheese(8ounces)

Pepper

2 tablespoonsfinelychoppedonion

1 tablespoonpoppyseeds

FOOTBALLSANDWICHES

SERVES6

Wepreferthesoftwhitedinnerrollsfoundinthebakerysectionofthesupermarket,butdinner-sizepotatorollswillalsowork.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce

1 teaspoongarlicpowder

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Slicerollsinhalfhorizontally.Spread4tablespoonsmustardevenlyoncutsidesofrolltopsandbottoms.Arrangerollbottoms,cutsideupandsidebyside,in13by9-inchbakingdish.Foldhamslicesinthirds,thenonceinhalf;place1sliceoneachrollbottom.FoldSwisslikeham,thenplaceoverham.Seasonwithpepperandcapwithrolltops.

2.Combinebutter,onion,andpoppyseedsinbowl.Microwaveuntilbutterismeltedandonionissoftened,about1minute.WhiskWorcestershire,garlicpowder,andremaining2tablespoonsmustardintobuttermixtureuntilcombined.Generouslybrushtopsandedgesofsandwicheswithallofbuttermixture.Spoonanyremainingsolidsoversandwiches.

3.Coverdishwithaluminumfoilandletsitfor10minutestoallowsandwichestoabsorbsauce.Bakefor20minutes.Uncoverandcontinuetobakeuntilcheeseismeltedaroundedgesandtopsareslightlyfirm,7to9minutes.Letcoolfor10minutes.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Sandwichescanbebrushedwithsauce,covered,andrefrigeratedupto1dayinadvance.Bringtoroomtemperaturebeforecooking.

PASTRAMIANDSWISSFOOTBALLSANDWICHES

Substitute36thinslices(8ounces)delipepperedpastramibrisketforham.Foldpastramiinthirdsanduse3slicespersandwich.Toppastramiwith1poundsauerkraut,drainedandsqueezeddry,beforeaddingcheese.

ALLABOUTYELLOWMUSTARD

Smoothandmild,yellowmustardisaNorthAmericanthing.Inotherpartsoftheworld,mustardsarehotter,darker,andgrainier.Butwhatyellowmustardmaylackinworldlinessandguts,itmakesupforinversatility.Yellowmustardisasmuchathomeonaballparkhotdogasitisoncoldcutsorinpotatosalad,barbecuesauce,saladdressing,ormarinadesforchickenorpork.Yellowmustardismadefromwhite(alsocalledyellow)mustardseed,

whichisflavorfulbutdoesn’tcauseanyofthenasalburnofbrownorblackmustardseed;theselasttwoareusedinDijon,Chinese,andotherspicymustards.Ourtasterswantedtoactuallytastethemustardseed,andthebrandstheyjudgedtohavethemostmustardflavorlistedmustardseedsecondintheiringredients.Theamountofsaltalsoprovedkey.Weoftenprefersaltierfoodsinourtastings,butthistimethemustardswiththeleastsodiumtendedtoscorehigher.Whythebreakinpreference?Vinegaraddssomuchpungency,theseyellowmustardsdidn’tneedextraseasoning;indeed,toomuchsaltthrewtheflavorsoutofbalance.Andhere’ssomethingelsetokeepinmindwhenyou’reshopping:The

moleculethatgivesyellowmustarditsassertivetaste(4-hydroxybenzylisothiocyanate,orPHBIT)dissipatesovertime,sonotethefreshnessdateonthejar.

WESTVIRGINIAPEPPERONIROLLS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Pepperonirollsareaspicy,on-the-gosnackbelovedacrossWestVirginia;wewantedtoextendthatpopularitytoourkitchenandbeyond.Forrollspackedwithflavor,weslicedpepperonisticksintowedgesandmicrowavedthem,reservingtherenderedoil.Wemadeadoughofall-purposeflour,yeast,milk,andalittlesugartooffsetthepepperoni’sspice.Insteadofbutter,weaddedthereservedoiltoflavorthedough;lettingthedoughriseinthebowlusedtomicrowavethepepperonihelpedthemeat’sspicyheatpermeateevenfurther.Toassemble,wetossedthepepperoniwedgeswithfloursothedoughcouldadheretotheirsurfaces(avoidinggapingholesintherolls’centers)androlledthedoughinto16ballsbeforeflattening.Welaidfourevenlyspacedwedgesonthedoughandrolledthemintoatight

laidfourevenlyspacedwedgesonthedoughandrolledthemintoatightcylinder.Brushingthesurfacewithaneggwashandsprinklingwithsesameseedsgavetherollstheirsignaturelook.Arrangingthemcloselyonabakingsheetresultedinsoft,tenderedgesastheybakedagainstoneanother.Oursesame-toppedrollsemergedabeautifulgoldenbrownwithboldpepperoniflavorthroughandthrough.

4(7-to8-ounce)stickspepperoni,8incheslong

cupswater

1 cupwholemilk

2 tablespoonsplus2teaspoonssugar

6⅔ cups(33⅓ounces)plus1tablespoonall-purposeflour,plusextraasneeded

2 teaspoonssalt

1largeegg,lightlybeatenwith1tablespoonwater

4 teaspoonssesameseeds

WESTVIRGINIAPEPPERONIROLLS

MAKES16

Besuretoreservethepepperonioilaftermicrowavingthepepperoni,asitgivesthedoughflavor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Cutpepperonisticksinhalfcrosswise,thencuteachhalfinhalflengthwise.Sliceeachquarterlengthwiseintofour4-inch-longwedges.(Youshouldhave64wedges.)Microwavepepperoniinlargebowluntilfatisrendered,about3minutes.Usingtongs,transferpepperonitopapertowel–linedplate;reserve3tablespoonspepperonioil.Donotwashbowl.

2.Combinewater,milk,andsugarin4-cupliquidmeasuringcup.Microwaveuntilliquidregisters110degrees,1to2minutes.Stirinreservedpepperonioil.

3.Usingstandmixerfittedwithdoughhook,mixtogether6⅔cupsflour,yeast,andsaltonlowspeeduntilcombined,about30seconds.Withmixerrunning,slowlyaddwatermixtureuntilincorporated.Increasespeedtomediumandkneaduntildoughisshinyandsmoothandpullsawayfromsidesofbowl,about8minutes.(Ifdoughappearswet,addextraflour,1tablespoonatatime,asneeded.)Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneadbrieflytoformcohesiveball.Transferdoughtoreservedbowlandturntocoatwithresidualpepperonioilinbowl.Coverwithplasticwrapandletriseinwarmplaceuntildoubledinsize,50minutesto1hour.

4.Transferdoughtolightlyflouredcounteranddivideinto16equal(3½-ounce)pieces.Workingwith1pieceatatime(keepremainingpiecescoveredwithplastic),formdoughintoballs,coverwithplastic,andletrestfor5minutes.

5.Tosspepperoniwedgeswithremaining1tablespoonflourtocoat.Workingwith1doughballatatime,useyourhandstopressballinto6by4-inchrectangle.Startingalongshortsideofrectangle,lay4pepperoniwedgessidebyside,½inchapart,androllintotightcylinder,pinchingseamtoseal.Leaveendsofrollsopen.Arrangerollsseamsidedownonpreparedsheet,endtoend,½inchapart,and4perrow.Coverwithplasticandletriseuntildoubledinsize,50minutesto1hour.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento375degrees.

6.Brushrollswitheggmixtureandsprinklewithsesameseeds.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,24to28minutes,rotatingsheethalfwaythroughbaking.

Transfersheettowirerackandletrollscoolforatleast15minutesbeforeserving.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Bakedandcooledrollscanbewrappedinplastic,placedinzipper-lockbag,andfrozenforupto1month.Toreheat,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Removeplasticandwrapeachrollinaluminumfoil.Bakedirectlyonovenrackuntilheatedthrough,35to45minutes.

“HOTPOCKETS”OFTHECOALMINES

Whendeep-shaftminingbecameabigindustryinlate19th-centuryAmerica,manyworkerswererecruitedfromOldWorldcommunities,wheretheyhadeitherbeendoingthesametypeofworkorweresopoorthattheyfiguredanythinginAmericahadtobebetter.Naturally,whereaminercamefromlargelydeterminedwhathebroughtdowntheshaftinhislunchbucket.Foodthatformeditsownpackage,withafillinginsideasturdydoughcrust,wasthemostpracticalmealforaminer.SoCornishminersintheUpperPeninsulaofMichiganatepasties;SlavicminersineasternPennsylvaniaoftencarriedbakedpierogiintheirlunchpails;andfortheItalianimmigrantswhocametoworkintheWestVirginiamines,thelunchofchoicewaspepperonirolls,inventedbyabakerinFairmontintheearly20thcentury.

MARYLANDCRABFLUFF

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Forfinger-lickingminicrabfritters,called“fluff,”adiminutivecousinofMarylandcrabcakes,wefirstfocusedonthefrying.Withthelightnessoftempurainmind,westirredtogetherabatterofflour,bakingpowder,andseltzer.Insteadofjustcoatingourcrabcakeswiththetempuramixture,wecombineditwiththecrabmeatmixtureitself,whichinadditiontocrabmeatincludedsaltines,egg,mayonnaise,andseasonings.Thebatterstiffenedthefluffjustenoughtopromiseacrispshell.Slicedscallions,Dijonmustard,andhotsauceaddedanextraflavorboost.Reducingthesizeofeachballfrom½cupto¼cupmadeforfasterfryingwithlessgreaseabsorption,andrefrigeratingthemixfor30minutesbeforefryingensuredthateachballheldtogetherintheoil.Ourfritterlikecrabflufffriedupgoldenandcrisp,

heldtogetherintheoil.Ourfritterlikecrabflufffriedupgoldenandcrisp,readyforanyoccasion.

10squareor11roundsaltines,crushedfine

½ cupall-purposeflour1½

teaspoonsOldBayseasoning

teaspoonbakingpowder

cupseltzer

2scallions,slicedthin

1largeeggplus1largeyolk

2 tablespoonsmayonnaise

MARYLANDCRABFLUFF

MAKES12

Youcanbuyjumbolumpcrabmeatfreshorpasteurized;thelatterisslightlycheaper.ServefluffwithCocktailSauceortartarsauce(Clickheretomakeyourown).Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 tablespoonDijonmustard

1 tablespoonhotsauce

1poundjumbolumpcrabmeat,pickedoverforshellsandpresseddrybetweenpapertowels

2 quartspeanutorvegetableoil

1.Whiskcrushedsaltines,flour,OldBay,bakingpowder,andcayennetogetherinlargebowl.Whiskseltzer,scallions,eggandyolk,mayonnaise,mustard,andhotsauceintosaltinemixtureuntilcombined.Gentlyfoldcrabmeatintobatteruntilwellcombined.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast30minutesorupto2hours.

2.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheetandlinehalfofrackwithtriplelayerofpapertowels.AddoiltolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasuresabout1½inchesdeepandheatovermedium-highheatto350degrees.

3.Spray¼-cupdrymeasuringcupwithvegetableoilspray.Place6packedscoopsofcrabmixtureinhotoil,usingspoontohelpdislodgebatterfromcup.Adjustburner,ifnecessary,tomaintainoiltemperaturebetween325and350degrees.Fryuntildeepgoldenbrownandhotthroughout,about5minutes.Transfercrabflufftopapertowel–linedsideofpreparedrackandletdrainfor1minute,thenmovetounlinedsideofrack.Returnoilto350degreesandrepeatwithremainingcrabmixture.Serve.

1 cupketchup

2tablespoonspreparedhorseradish,plusextraforseasoning

2teaspoonshotsauce,plusextraforseasoning

teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

COCKTAILSAUCE

MAKES1CUP

Stirallingredientstogetherinsmallbowlandseasonwithadditionalhorseradishandhotsauceasdesired.(Saucecanberefrigeratedforupto1day.)

SAFEPORTIONINGINTOHOTOIL

Firstchillbattersoit’snottooloose.Next,coat¼-cupdrymeasuringcupwithvegetableoilspray,scoopbatter,andgentlynudgeeachfluffintooilwithspoon.

OYSTERPO’BOYS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSThecombinationofspicyfriedoystersandcreamymayoinacrustybaguettemakethepo’boysandwichaprovenwinner,sowedecidedtofindawaytore-createthisNewOrleansclassicathome.Startingwithfreshshuckedoystersboughtatoursupermarket’sfishcounter,wecreatedadelicatecrustbyrollingtheoystersinacornmealandflourmixture.Theoysters’naturaljuices(knownasliquor)allowedthebreadingtoclingwithouttheextraweightofaneggwash.Salt,pepper,andcayenneblendedintoourcrunchycornmealbreadinginfusedeachbitewithgreatflavor.Fryingtheoystersatahightemperaturebrownedthecrustwhilekeepingtheoysterstenderandmoistinside.Withouroystersattheready,weremoveda1-inchchanneldownthetopandbottomofhalvedbaguettes.We

removeda1-inchchanneldownthetopandbottomofhalvedbaguettes.Wespreadmayonnaiseoverthehollowsandsprinkledlemonjuice,salt,andpepperoverbothhalvesbeforeaddingdicedpicklestothebottomhalves.Oncetheoysters,slicedtomato,andlettucewerenestledunderthetopbaguettehalves,ourpo’boystastedasgoodassandwichesintheBigEasy...maybebetter.

6tablespoonsfine-groundcornmeal

Saltandpepper

8ouncesshuckedoystersintheirliquor(20–24oysters),pickedoverforshells

3 cupspeanutorvegetableoil

1(24-inch)baguette,cutinto4(6-inch)lengths

cupmayonnaise

OYSTERPO’BOYS

SERVES4

UseaDutchoventhatholds6quartsormoreforthisrecipe.Don’tusestone-groundorcoarse-groundcornmealasitistooheartyforthedelicateoysters.Aspiderskimmermakesquickworkofremovingthefriedoystersfromtheoil.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 teaspoonslemonjuice

½ cupdillpickles,cutinto¼-inchpieces

1tomato,coredandcutinto⅛-inch-thickslices

4 lettuceleaves

1.Adjustovenracktomiddleposition,placewireracksetinrimmedbakingsheetonovenrack,andheatovento200degrees.Combinecornmeal,flour,¾teaspoonsalt,½teaspoonpepper,andcayenneinshallowdish.Placeoystersandtheirliquorinmediumbowl.Usingslottedspoon,scoopupabout8oysters,brieflyallowingexcessliquortodripoff,andscatteracrosscornmealmixture.Shakedishtocoatoystersevenlywithcornmealmixture.Transferoysterstosecondwireracksetinsecondrimmedbakingsheet.Repeatwithremainingoysters.

2.Lineplatewithtriplelayerofpapertowels.AddoiltolargeDutchovenandheatovermedium-highheatto400degrees.(Adjustburner,ifnecessary,tomaintainoiltemperatureof400degrees.)Workingwithone-thirdofoystersatatime,fryoysters,stirringwithspiderskimmertopreventoystersfromfusingtogether,untilgoldenbrownandfryinghasslowed,about2minutes.Transferoysterstopreparedplate,thentransferbatchtopreparedrackinoven.Returnoilto400degreesandrepeatwithremainingoysters.

3.Cuteachbaguettelengthinhalflengthwise.Usingyourfingers,pullout1-inch-widechannelofbreadfrominterioroftopandbottompiecesofeachlength.Spread1tablespoonmayonnaiseovereachchannel,sprinkleeachpiecewith¼teaspoonlemonjuice,andseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Sprinkle2tablespoonspicklesovereachbottompiece,thenplace4to5friedoysters,2to3slicesoftomato,1leafoflettuce,andtopbaguettepiecesoverpickles.Serve.

SHUCKINGANOYSTER

1.Holdoysterflatshelldownindishtowel.Pushbladeintohinge,wigglingitbackandforthtopryopenshell;youwillhearandfeelpop.Movebladebetweenshellstoloosen,thentwisttopryopen.

2.Withoutspillingliquorthatsurroundsoyster,slideknifeunderoystertosevermusclethatholdsmeattobottomshell.

MAQUECHOUX

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

EveryLouisianafamilyturnsoutitsownversionofmaquechoux,aspicystewedcorndishstuddedwithvegetablesandplentyofCajunseasoning.Wewantedourstobethickandcreamyandloadedwithsmokyflavor,sowestartedbycookingbaconandusingitsrenderedfattobrownandouillesausage,bellpepper,onion,andcelery.Forbright,freshcornflavorandathick,creamytexture,westrippedthekernelsfromsixearsofcornandgratedthekernelsoftwomoreears,combiningthekernels,starchygratedcorn,andaccumulatedcornmilkintoasinglebowlbeforeaddingthereservedbacon.Weaddedthebacon-cornmixtureandcanneddicedtomatoestothecookedvegetablesandsausage,reducingtheliquidbefore

addingthereservedtomatojuice.Thestarchreleasedbythegratedcornquicklythickenedtheliquid,turningoursimmeringpotofvegetablesandsausageintoacreamyCajunstewtoladleoverrice.

8earscorn,husksandsilkremoved

5ouncesandouillesausage,halvedlengthwiseandslicedthin

1greenbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andchopped

1onion,chopped

1celeryrib,minced

Saltandpepper

garliccloves,minced

MAQUECHOUX

SERVES4TO6

Freshcornisbest.Forfrozencorn,use6cupsofthawedkernels;process1½cupsofkernelswith½cupofwaterinablenderuntilcoarselygroundtoreplacethegratedcorninstep1.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 cupswater

1(14.5-ounce)candicedtomatoes,drainedwithjuicereserved

1.Cutkernelsfrom6earsofcorn.Breakremaining2earsinhalfandgrateoverplateonlargeholesofboxgrater.Combinecutkernels,gratedcorn,andanyaccumulatedcornmilkinbowl;setaside.CookbaconinDutchovenovermediumheatuntilcrisp,6to8minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbacontobowlwithcorn.

2.Addoiltorenderedbaconfatinpotandreturntomediumheat.Addsausageandcookuntillightlybrowned,about2minutes.Addbellpepper,onion,celery,and½teaspoonsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilvegetablesbegintosoftenandbrown,8to10minutes.Stiringarlic,tomatopaste,andcayenneandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.

3.Stirincorn-baconmixture,water,andtomatoesandbringtoboil,scrapingupanybrownedbits.Reduceheattolowandsimmer,stirringoften,untilliquidhasreducedbythree-fourths,25to30minutes.Stirinreservedtomatojuiceandcookuntilliquidisreducedbytwo-thirdsandmixtureisslightlythickenedandcreamy,about10minuteslonger.Offheat,stirinscallionsandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.

MAQUECHOUXWITHSHRIMP

Stirin1½poundsextra-largeshrimp(21to25perpound),peeledanddeveined,aftertomatojuicehasreducedinstep3.Cookuntilshrimparecookedthrough,about5minutes.Addscallionsandserve.

SHOPPINGFORANDSTORINGCORN

Cornlosesitssweetnesssoonafteritisharvested,sobuythefreshestcornyoucanfind.Lookforplumpearswithgreenhusksandgoldensilkextendingfromthetops(themoresilkthebetter,sinceitisanindicatorofthenumberofkernels).Peelbackthehusktocheckforbrownspotsandtomakesurethekernelsarefirm.Ifyoumuststorecorn,wrapit,huskandall,inawetpaperbagandthen

inaplasticbagandplaceitintherefrigeratorforupto24hours.

SENATENAVYBEANSOUP

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

IthasbeenafixtureonthemenuintheU.S.Senatecafeteriaformorethanacentury,butwethoughtthissimplenavybeanandpotatosoupwasinneedofflavorreform.Briningthebeansensuredthattheywouldbecreamyandsoft,andcookingtheonion,celery,andgarlicseparatelyfromthelong-simmeringpotkepttheircrunchintact.Foragentleinfusionofspice,westuddedoneofthehamhockswithwholeclovesandslowlycookedthehocksandbeansinwateratagentlemedium-lowheatfor45minutes.Thissoupistypicallythickenedwithmashedpotatoes,butwefoundthatcookingcubedrussetsandmashingthemtogetherwiththesoftenedbeansrightinthepotmadeperfectingthetextureabreeze.Weshreddedthecookedhocksandreturnedthemeattothepotbeforefinishingwithatouchofcider

andreturnedthemeattothepotbeforefinishingwithatouchofcidervinegarfortangandsweetness.Withmeaty,salty,creamyflavorsbrimmingineverypiping-hotbowl,oursoupmadealameduckofitspredecessor.

Saltandpepper

1pound(2½cups)navybeans,pickedoverandrinsed

1onion,choppedfine

3 wholecloves

2(12-ounce)smokedhamhocks

ouncesrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto¼-inchpieces

SENATENAVYBEANSOUP

SERVES6TO8

Thefinishedtextureofthesoupshouldbecreamybutnottoothick.Weusewholeclovesbecausegroundclovesturnthesoupanunsightlygraycolor.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 tablespooncidervinegar

1.Dissolve3tablespoonssaltin4quartscoldwaterinlargecontainer.Addbeansandsoakatroomtemperatureforatleast8hoursorupto24hours.Drainandrinsewell.

2.HeatoilinDutchovenovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonion,celery,and1teaspoonsaltandcookuntilsoftened,8to10minutes.Stiringarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Transferonionmixturetobowl.

3.Insertclovesintoskinof1hamhock.Add8cupswater,hamhocks,andbeanstonow-emptypotandbringtoboiloverhighheat.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmer,coveredwithlidslightlyajar,untilbeansaretender,45to60minutes,stirringoccasionally.

4.Stirpotatoesandonionmixtureintosoupandsimmer,uncovered,untilpotatoesaretender,10to15minutes;removepotfromheat.Transferhamhockstocuttingboardandletcoolslightly.Discardcloves,thenshredmeat,discardingbonesandskin.

5.Usingpotatomasher,gentlymashbeansandpotatoesuntilsoupiscreamyandslightlythickened,8to10strokes.Add½teaspoonpepperandshreddedmeatandreturntosimmerovermediumheat.Stirinvinegar.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.

AGRIDLOCKEDDEBATE

SenatenavybeansoupisamainstayattheU.S.Capitolcafeteria.Infact,it’sbeenonthemenuforover100years.Buthowdiditgetthere?EventheSenatehistorian,DonRitchie,isn’tsure:“SomeaccountsattributeittoIdahoSenatorFredDubois(b.1851),who...pushedaresolutiontorequirethebeansouponthemenueveryday.TheotherstoryattributesittoMinnesotaSenatorKnuteNelson(b.1843),whogottheRulesCommitteetoadoptaresolutionin1907.It’spossiblethatbothstoriesaretrue.”WemayneveruncovertherealstoryofSenatenavybeansoup,butweknowonethingforsure:Thisheartysoupisheretostay.

KENTUCKYBURGOO

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Potsofburgoo,achunkystewoftomatoes,corn,potatoes,chicken,andmutton,areoftenmadeandservedupatgatheringsalloverKentucky,andtheingredientsareoftendeterminedbywhatthecookhappenstohaveonhandatthetime.Tostirupaheady,flavorfulburgooonamuchsmallerscale,wehadtorefinetheingredientlist.Weoptedforreadilyavailablelambshoulderchopsovermuttonandfoundthattheirbonesaddedgreatflavorandbodytothebroth.Usingacombinationoffresh,frozen,andcannedvegetables,weminimizedpreptimewithoutputtingadamperonthestew’sflavors.Afterbrowningthelambandchickenthighs,weusedtherenderedfattocooktheonionsandgarlic.Worcestershiresaucealongwith

renderedfattocooktheonionsandgarlic.Worcestershiresaucealongwithchickenbrothandtomatoesgavethestewdepthandrichness.Weletthechickenandlambcookinthebroth,removingthechickenafter30minutesandcookingthelambuntiltender.Wecookedthevegetableslast,simmeringthepotatoesfirstbeforeaddingthecornandlimabeans.Pepperstirredinattheendrestoredthestew’spleasant,spicyheat,andlemonjuicecontributedabrightfinishingtouch.

4(5-to7-ounce)bone-in,skin-onchickenthighs

6(6-to8-ounce)lambshoulderbladechops,eachabout½inchthick

Saltandpepper

1tablespoonvegetableoil,plusextraasneeded

2onions,chopped

6 cupschickenbroth

KENTUCKYBURGOO

SERVES6TO8

Ifyoucan’tfindlambshoulderbladechopsatyourmarket,youcansubstitute1½poundsoflambstewmeatorbeefchuckstewmeat.Weliketousetherenderedchickenfat(leftoverafterbrowningthechickeninstep1)tobrownthemeatandsautéthevegetables.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

cupWorcestershiresauce

1½ poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchchunks1½

cupsfrozencorn

cupsfrozenbabylimabeans

¼ cuplemonjuice(2lemons)

1.Patchickenandlambdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Brownchicken,about5minutesperside;transfertoplate.Pourofffatfrompanandreserve.(Youshouldhaveabout3tablespoonsfat;ifyouhaveless,supplementwithvegetableoil.)Add1tablespoonreservedfattonow-emptyDutchovenandheatuntiljustsmoking.Brownhalfofchops,about5minutesperside;transfertoplate.Repeatwithadditional1tablespoonfatandremainingchops.

2.Addremaining1tablespoonfatandonionstonow-emptypotandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addflourandgarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about1minute.Stirinbroth,tomatoes,andWorcestershire,scrapingupanybrownedbits.Returnchickenandlambtopotandbringtoboil.

3.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmer,covered,untilchickenistender,about30minutes.Transferchickentoplate.Whencoolenoughtohandle,pullchickenintobite-sizepiecesandreserveinrefrigerator;discardbonesandskin.Continuetosimmerstewuntillambistender,about40minuteslonger.Transferlambtoplate.Whencoolenoughtohandle,pulllambintobite-sizepiecesandreserveinrefrigerator;discardbones.

4.Addpotatoestopotandsimmeruntiltender,about15minutes.Addcorn,limabeans,reservedchicken,andreservedlambandsimmeruntilheatedthrough,about5minutes.Stirinlemonjuiceand¾teaspoonpepper.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Skimfatifnecessary.Serve.

EATINGLOCAL OWENSBORO,KY

AlthoughKentuckyburgoobeganasawaytomakeuseofwhateverwashuntedorreadytoharvest(includingcabbage,limabeans,squirrel,opossum,ordeer),today,burgooisabitmoreformulaic.Thechunkystewismadewithtomatoes,corn,potatoes,chicken,andmutton(maturelamb).Localsdevelopedtheirtasteformuttoninthe19thcentury,whensheepfarmingwasbigbusiness,bothintheregionandelsewhereinAmerica.ThisunusuallocalspecialtygarnerslotsofattentionattheINTERNATIONALBAR-B-QFESTIVALinOwensboro,Kentucky,wheremuttonisbothbarbecuedandservedinburgoo.OutsideofOwensboro,muttonisn’tverycommon(ourlocalmarketdoesn’tevencarryit),buttheresidentsofOwensborostilldevourmorethan20,000poundsofmuttonatthefestivaleachyear.

INTERNATIONALBAR-B-QFESTIVALCourthouseSquare,2ndSt.Owensboro,KY

AUTHENTICMARYLANDFRIEDCHICKENANDGRAVY

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSInMaryland,friedchickenismarkedbyathin,crispcrust,standoutseasoning,andadribbleofpepperycreamgravy.Togetourversionofthischickenontherighttrack,weinjectedakickofspicyflavorwithagenerousdoseofdrymustard,salt,andgarlicpowder.Dredginginflourandbakingpowder,thenrefrigeratingtheseasonedchickenbeforefryinginpeanutoil,madeforanextra-crispcoating.AsprinklingofOldBayonthejust-friedpiecesreinforcedthechicken’sboldseasoning.Withchickenthiscrispandflavorful,wewantedatraditionalcreamgravy.Usingsomeoftheremainingfryingoilinourpot,webrownedflourandwhiskedinchickenbroth,heavycream,andpepper.Afterthemixturethickenedforabout5minutes,ourMarylandfriedchickenhadanequallyauthenticgravytomatch.

Marylandfriedchickenhadanequallyauthenticgravytomatch.

FRIEDCHICKEN

4poundsbone-inchickenpieces,breastshalvedcrosswiseandlegquartersseparatedintodrumsticksandthighs,trimmed

1 tablespoondrymustard

1 tablespoongarlicpowder

1 teaspoonsalt

2cupsall-purposeflour

3cupspeanutoilorvegetableshortening

AUTHENTICMARYLANDFRIEDCHICKENANDGRAVY

SERVES4TO6

Besuretousepeanutoilorvegetableshorteninginthisrecipe,asvegetableoilcanbreakdownandimpartoff-flavorstothechicken.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

OldBayseasoning

CREAMGRAVY

¼ cupall-purposeflour

2 cupschickenbroth

1 cupheavycream

1 teaspoonpepper

1.FORTHEFRIEDCHICKEN:Patchickendrywithpapertowels.Combinemustard,garlicpowder,andsaltinsmallbowlandsprinklemixtureevenlyoverchicken.Combineflourandbakingpowderinshallowdish.Workingwith1pieceatatime,dredgechickeninflourmixtureuntilwellcoated,shakingoffexcess.Transfertoplateandrefrigerateforatleast30minutesorupto2hours.

2.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatto375degrees.Placehalfofchickenskinsidedowninpot,cover,andfryuntilwellbrowned,about5minutesperside.Reduceheattomedium,adjustingburner,ifnecessary,tomaintainoiltemperaturebetween300and325degrees.Cook,uncoveredandturningchickenasneeded,untilbreastsregister160degreesanddrumsticks/thighsregister175degrees,about5minutes.Transferchickentopreparedwirerack,seasonwithOldBay,andkeepwarminoven.Returnoilto375degreesandrepeatwithremainingchicken.

3.FORTHECREAMGRAVY:Pouroffallbut¼cupoilfrompot.Stirinflourandcookuntilgolden,about2minutes.Slowlywhiskinbroth,cream,andpepperandsimmergravyuntilthickened,about5minutes.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Servechickenwithgravy.

OILMATTERS

Whileweweredevelopingthisfriedchickenrecipe,batchafterbatchofthechickenwasmarredbyanodd“fishy”flavor.Tofindtheculprit,wetriedadjustingeveryvariableintherecipe,butnothingworked.Asalastresort,weswitchedfromvegetableoil(ourusualfryingmedium)topeanutoil(anothercommonlyusedfryingoil),andtheproblemwassolved.Asitturnsout,afteratotalfryingtimeofroughly30minutes,thevegetableoilwasbeginningtobreakdownandimpartaspoiled,fishyflavortothechicken.Peanutoil(whichhasahighersmokepoint)faredbetteranddidn’tbreakdown,resultinginnooff-flavorsinthechicken.Wealsotriedsaffloweroil,canolaoil,andvegetableshortening.Thepeanutoilwasstillbest,butthevegetableshorteningwastherunner-up,winningpraiseforits“clean”flavor.

CAROLINACHICKENBOG

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Bynameitmaynotsoundlikemuch,butchickenbog—aone-potdishofchicken,smokysausage,andwhiterice—isadeliciousdishfromSouthCarolinakitchens,packingheartytasteintoeverylastbite.Togetinonthatflavor,wesetoursightsonpilaf-likericecookedinadeeplyflavorfulbrothwithgenerouschunksofchickenandsausage.Ratherthanriskovercookingwhitemeat,weturnedtochickenthighsforjuicymeatandmaximumflavor.Webrownedthethighsandsetthemaside,usingtheskin’srenderedfattoinfusechickenflavorintotheonionandkielbasa.Next,wecreatedanaromaticbroth,bloomingmincedgarlicbeforestirringinchickenbroth.Thethighscookedinthissuperflavorfulliquidatalowsimmerbeforeweaddedtherice.Asthericecookedtoatender,slightlystickyconsistency,we

therice.Asthericecookedtoatender,slightlystickyconsistency,weshreddedthechickenandfoldeditintothesausage-studdedrice.Wenowhadallofthemeaty,seasonedflavorsofaLorisBog-OffFestivalcontender,butinthecomfortofourownkitchen.

6(5-to7-ounce)bone-inchickenthighs,trimmed

Saltandpepper

8ouncessmokedkielbasasausage,cutinto½-inch-thickrounds

1onion,choppedfine

4 cupschickenbroth

2cupslong-grainwhiterice

CAROLINACHICKENBOG

SERVES6TO8

1.Patchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.HeatoilinDutchovenovermediumheatuntiljustsmoking.Cookchicken,skinsidedown,untilwellbrowned,6to8minutes;transferchickentoplate.Discardskin.

2.Pouroffallbut1tablespoonfatfrompotandreturntomediumheat.Addsausageandonionandcookuntilonionistranslucentandsausagebeginstobrown,3to5minutes.Addgarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addbroth,chicken,1teaspoonsalt,and1teaspoonpepperandbringtoboil.Reduceheattolow,cover,andsimmeruntilchickenistender,about30minutes.

3.Removechickenfrompotandsetaside.Stirriceintopot,cover,andcontinuetocookoverlowheatuntilriceistender,about20minutes.

4.Shredchickenintobite-sizepieces;discardbones.Gentlyfoldshreddedchickenintoricemixture.Removefromheatandletsit,covered,for10minutes.Serve.

RINSINGCHICKEN?

BoththeU.S.DepartmentofAgricultureandtheFoodandDrugAdministrationadviseagainstwashingpoultry.Accordingtotheirresearch,whilerinsingmayremovesomebacteria,theonlywaytoensurethatallbacteriaarekilledisthroughpropercooking.Moreover,splashingbacteriaaroundthesinkcanbedangerous,especiallyifwaterlandsonfoodthatisreadytobeserved.Allthesame,somepeoplewillarguethatchickenshouldberinsedforflavor—notsafety—reasons.Aftersittinginitsownbloodandjuicesfordays,theyargue,chickenshouldbeunwrappedandrefreshedunderrunningwater.Tofindoutifrinsinghadanyimpactonflavor,weroastedfourchickens—tworinsed,twounrinsed—andheldablindtasting.Tasterscouldn’ttellthedifference.Ourconclusion?Skiptherinsing.

EATINGLOCAL LORIS,SC

WetraveleddowntoLoris,SouthCarolina,towatchlocalbogmastersatworkattheannualLORISBOG-OFFFESTIVAL,ahotlycontestedaffair.Entrantscookupbogsinlargecast-ironDutchovens,carefullystirringwithwooden“boggingspoons”worndownfromyearsofpotstirring.Recipesareguardedjealously,butthebasics—chicken,sausage,andwhiterice—arethethreekeyingredientssharedbyall.

LORISBOG-OFFFESTIVALMainSt.,Loris,SC

COUNTRYCAPTAINCHICKEN

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Withrecipesforthismildlycurriedchickendatingbackcenturies,countrycaptainrepresentsoneofAmerica’searliestforaysintomulticulturalcuisine.Wewantedtofreshenupthisdishsoitboastedtheperfectbalanceofheatandsweet.Afterbrowningthechicken,weusedtherenderedfattocooktheonionsandgreenbellpepper.Weuppedourspices’impactbycookingagenerousamountofcurrypowderandgarlicwithtomatopaste,flour,andbrownsugar.Raisinsandchoppedsweet-tartapplewerepromotedfromgarnishtokeyingredient—wefoundtheycontributedsubtlesweetnessandbrightnesswhenstirredinwithcanneddicedtomatoes.Wecookedthechickeninthisflavorfulsauceandaddedlimejuicebeforeservingforafinalcitrusykick.

servingforafinalcitrusykick.

Saltandpepper

2onions,choppedfine

1greenbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andchoppedfine

2 tablespoonstomatopaste

2 tablespoonscurrypowder

COUNTRYCAPTAINCHICKEN

SERVES6

Ifyoucan’tfindpetitedicedtomatoes,pulseone28-ouncecanofdicedtomatoesinafoodprocessoruntilcoarselyground.Thisdishistraditionallyservedwithriceandahostofgarnishesthatincludebacon,scallions,toastedcoconut,almonds,choppedbanana,peanuts,andpineapple;useasmanyorasfewofthoseasyoulike.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 teaspoonpackedbrownsugar

1(28-ounce)canpetitedicedtomatoes

1GrannySmithapple,cored,halved,andchoppedfine

cupraisinsordriedcurrants

2 teaspoonslimejuice

1.Patchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Brownhalfofchickenwell,about5minutesperside;transfertoplate.Repeatwithremainingchicken.Whencoolenoughtohandle,discardskin.

2.Pouroffallbut2tablespoonsfatfrompot.Addonionsandbellpepperandcook,covered,untilsoftened,about8minutes.Stirintomatopaste,currypowder,flour,garlic,andsugarandcookuntilfragrantandcolordeepens,about2minutes.Stirintomatoesandtheirjuice,apple,andraisinsandbringtoboil.

3.Returnchickenandanyaccumulatedjuicestopot.Reduceheattolowandsimmer,covered,untilbreastsregister160degreesanddrumsticks/thighsregister175degrees,20to25minutes.Stirinlimejuice,seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste,andserve.

AGEORGIACLASSIC

AlthoughsomesourcesclaimthisrecipewasinventedintheAmericanSouth,mostfoodhistoriansbelievethisvibrantstewwasintroducedtotheresidentsofSavannahbyBritishseacaptainswhohadtraveledalongthespicerouteduringthelate18thorearly19thcentury.Inanycase,thedishhasitsrootsinIndia.ThefirstprintedrecipeappearedinMissLeslie’sNewCookeryBook(1857),andfromthe20thcenturyonwardcountrycaptainbecameastapleinmanySouthernandall-purposecookbooks,includingtheoriginalJoyofCooking(1931).PresidentFranklinD.Rooseveltissaidtohavebeenafanofthisdish,havingenjoyeditduringhisfrequentvisitstoWarmSprings,Georgia,forrestandrecuperation.

CHICKENBONNEFEMME

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Tobringthisslow-cookedCreolechickendishintothe21stcentury,welighteneduptheingredientsandspedupthepreptimeofchickenbonnefemme.Swappingthetraditionalfriedchickenforbraisedhandilyturnedourbonnefemmeintoaone-potmeal.Weoptedforchickenthighsfortheirrichflavorandabilitytostaymoistduringlong,slowcooking.Baconisakeyflavorinbonnefemme.Afterbrowningit,wekeptatablespoonoftherenderedfatinthepotandusedittobrownthethighs.Oncecooked,weremovedthethighs,discardedtheirskin,andleftsomefatinthepottobrownthepotatohalvesandaromatics.Webuiltthesaucegradually,firstaddingonion,thengarlicandthyme,andfinishingwithdrywhitewine,

chickenbroth,someofthebacon,andhotsauce.Wereturnedtheskinlessthighstothepottobraiseinthezestysauce.ThechickenemergedloadedwithCreoleflavor,needingonlyasprinklingofslicedscallions,freshparsley,andtherestofthebacon.

3poundsbone-inchickenthighs,trimmed

Saltandpepper

5slicesbacon,chopped

1½ poundssmallredpotatoes,unpeeled,halved

1onion,choppedfine

cupdrywhitewine

cupchickenbroth

CHICKENBONNEFEMME

SERVES4TO6

Toensureevencookingandbrowning,usesmallredpotatoesmeasuringnomorethan1½inchesindiameterforthisrecipe.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1 teaspoonhotsauce

2 tablespoonschoppedfreshparsley

1.Patchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.CookbaconinDutchovenovermediumheatuntilcrisp,5to7minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowel–linedplate.Pouroffallbut1tablespoonfatfrompot.Heatfatovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Addchickentopotandcookuntilthighsarewellbrowned,3to4minutesperside;transfertoplate.Whenchickeniscoolenoughtohandle,discardskin.

2.Pouroffallbut1½tablespoonsfatfrompot.Arrangepotatoescutsidedowninpotandcookovermediumheatuntilgoldenbrown,about10minutes.Stirinonionandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addgarlicandthymeandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Stirinwine,broth,hotsauce,andhalfofbaconandbringtoboil.

3.Returnchickenandanyaccumulatedjuicestopot.Reduceheattomedium-lowandcook,covered,untilpotatoesaretenderandmeatregisters175degrees,about25minutes.Sprinklewithscallions,parsley,andremainingbacon.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandserve.

BROWN,BABY,BROWN

Mostchickenbraisescallforbrowningthemeatbeforeaddingliquid.Foranotherlayerofflavorinourbonnefemme,webrownedthepotatohalvesinacombinationofbaconandchickenfat.

TURNINGTOCHICKENTHIGHS

OurChickenBonneFemmeisaheartyone-potmeal,andmeatychickenthighspromisedrichnesswithoutdryingout.Here’showwemaximizedthethighs’flavors:

1.Patchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

2.With1tablespoonofbaconfatleftinpot,cookchickenuntilwellbrownedonbothsides.

3.Whenchickeniscoolenoughtohandle,discardskinandsetchickenaside.

MEMPHISSPARERIBS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Ratherthansmotheringribsinsauce,Memphispitmastersrelyonapotentspicerubtoinfusethemeatwithunmistakableflavor.ToreplicatethatMemphis-stylerubathome,westartedatourspicerackandchoseahandfulofspicesthatwouldn’ttastetooharshstraightfromthejar.Beginningwithsaltandbrownsugarforitssubtlemolassesnotes,wecombinedpaprika,chilipowder,pepper,garlicpowder,onionpowder,andcayennetocreateaperfectlybalancedrub.Weworkeditoverourribsandthenletthemsitwhilethewoodchipssoaked.Aftergrillingforthefirsthour,weflippedtheribsandbrushedthemwithasweetandsourmopofappleciderandcidervinegar,repeatingthisstepeveryhalfhour.Withthesmokycrustinplace,wrappingtheribsinfoilandmovingthemtotheoventofinishensuredan

wrappingtheribsinfoilandmovingthemtotheoventofinishensuredanirresistiblytendertexture.Wesprinkledthemwithmoreofthespicerubandgavethem2minutesunderthebroilerforafinalbrowning.Whiletheribsrested,wereducedthemopintoadippingsauce,addinginourremainingspicerubandhotsauceforextraheat.OurMemphis-styleribswereanunbeatablecombinationofsmoke,spice,andpork.

cuppaprika

3 tablespoonspackedbrownsugar

2 tablespoonschilipowder

2 teaspoonsgarlicpowder

2 teaspoonsonionpowder

1 teaspooncayennepepper

Saltandpepper

2(2½-to3-pound)racksSt.Louis–stylespareribs,trimmed,membraneremoved

MEMPHISSPARERIBS

SERVES4TO6

Theseribsaremoderatelyspicy;adjustthecayenneandhotsauceasyouwish.Toreheatleftovers,placetheribsinanovenproofdish,addafewtablespoonsofwater,coverwithaluminumfoil,andplaceina250-degreeovenfor20to30minutes.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

3 cupsapplecider

1 cupcidervinegar

2cupswoodchips,soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrained

2 teaspoonshotsauce

1.Combinepaprika,sugar,chilipowder,garlicpowder,onionpowder,cayenne,2tablespoonspepper,and1tablespoonsaltinbowl.Reserve7teaspoonsofspicemixtureseparatelyforfinishingribsandsauce.Patribsdrywithpapertowelsandrubevenlywithremainingspicemixture.Wrapribsinplasticwrapandletsitatroomtemperatureforatleast1hour,orrefrigerateforupto24hours.

2.Bringciderandvinegartosimmerinsmallsaucepan;removefromheatandcovertokeepwarm.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

3A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventhalfway.Lightlargechimneystarterthree-quartersfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(4½quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourintosteeplybankedpileagainstsideofgrill.Placewoodchippacketoncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Removecookinggrateandplacewoodchippacketdirectlyonprimaryburner.Setcookinggrateinplace,turnallburnerstohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about15minutes.Turnprimaryburnertomedium-highandturnoffotherburner(s).(Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrilltemperaturearound325degrees.)

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Unwrapribsandplace,meatsidedown,oncoolersideofgrill;ribsmayoverlapslightly.Cover(positionlidventovermeatifusingcharcoal)andcookuntilribsaredeepredandsmoky,about2hours,flipping,rotating,andswitchingribsandbastingwithwarmcidermopevery30minutes.Duringfinal20minutesofgrilling,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento250degrees.

5.Transferribs,meatsideup,torimmedbakingsheetandcovertightlywithfoil.Continuetocookribsinovenuntiltenderandforkinsertedintoribsmeetsnoresistance,1½to2½hours,bastingwithwarmmopevery30minutes.

6.Removeribsfromovenandunwrap.Adjustovenrack6inchesfrombroilerelementandheatbroiler.Sprinkleribswith2tablespoonsreservedspicemixtureandbroiluntilbrownedanddryonsurfaceandspicesarefragrant,about2minutes,flippingribshalfwaythroughbroiling.

7.Removeribsfromoven,tentwithfoil,andletrestfor30minutes.Whileribsrest,addremaining1teaspoonspicemixturetoremainingmopandsimmer,uncovered,untilthickenedandsaucy,10to15minutes.Stirinhotsauceandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Sliceribsbetweenbonesandservewithsauce.

READYINGRIBSFORTHEGRILL

Removingthemembraneontheundersideoftheribswillhelpthefatrendermorequickly.

1.At1endofrack,loosenedgeofmembranewithtipofparingknifeoryourfingernail.

2.Grabmembranewithpapertoweltokeepitfromslipping.Pullslowly—itshouldcomeoffin1piece.

PORKCHOPSWITHTOMATOGRAVY

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

LikemanyofourfavoriteLouisianadishes,theseporkchopstraditionallyhavetheboldflavorthatresultsfromlong,slowcooking;couldwecapturethebold,meatyflavorswelovedwithoutthewait?WeinfusedthechopswithCajunspiceusingarubofpaprika,sugar,andcayenneandthenturnedtofinelychoppedbaconforoursalty,smokyflavorbase.Aftercookingthebitsinaskillet,weremovedthebaconanduseditsrenderedfattobrowntheporkchopsononesidetodevelopfond—thoseflavorfulbrownedbitsatthebottomofthepan.Withthebrownedchopssetaside,wecookedoil,onion,celery,andgarlicinthesameskillet.Toestablishourgravy’sflavorfulroux,weaddedflourandtomatopaste,allowingthemtobrownandbloombeforealsowhiskinginbroth,tomatosauce,thyme,bayleaf,and

andbloombeforealsowhiskinginbroth,tomatosauce,thyme,bayleaf,andthereservedbacon.Oursaucewasnowthick,smoky,andrich.Wearrangedthechopsintheskillet,brownedsideup,andletthembraiseinthesimmeringsauceuntildone.Thefinishedchopsboastedacrisp,tastycrustandadeep,full-flavoredtomatogravytomatch—andwithtimetospare.

Saltandpepper

teaspoonpaprika

teaspoonsugar

4(8-to10-ounce)bone-inporkribchops,1inchthick,trimmed

1onion,choppedfine

PORKCHOPSWITHTOMATOGRAVY

SERVES4

Forthebestpresentation,makesurethesearedsideisfacingupwhenplatingthesechops.Arrangetheporkchopsinapinwheelpatternsotheyfiteasilyintheskillet.Weliketoservethesechopsoverriceorwithgrits.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 celeryrib,minced

1garlicclove,minced

1 cupchickenbroth

1(8-ounce)cantomatosauce

1 bayleaf

1.Combine1teaspoonsalt,1teaspoonpepper,paprika,sugar,andcayenneinbowl.Patchopsdrywithpapertowelsandsprinkleevenlywithspicemixture.

2.Cookbaconin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilcrisp,5to7minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowel–linedplate.Pouroffallbut1tablespoonfatfromskillet.Increaseheattomedium-highandbrownchopswellon1side,about5minutes.Transfertoplate,brownedsideup.

3.Reduceheattomedium,addoil,andheatuntilshimmering.Addonion,celery,andgarlicandcookuntilsoftened,5to7minutes.Addflourandtomatopasteandcook,stirringconstantly,for2minutes.Whiskinbroth,tomatosauce,thyme,bayleaf,andreservedbaconandbringtoboil.

4.Transferchops,brownedsideup,andanyaccumulatedjuicestopan.Reduceheattolow,cover,andsimmeruntilchopsregister145degrees,8to12minutes.Transferchopstoservingplatter,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5to10minutes.Seasongravywithsaltandpeppertotaste,discardbayleaf,cover,andkeepwarm.Stiranyaccumulatedjuicesfromplatterintogravyandpouroverchops.Serve.

PORKYPERFECTION

Foryearsthestandardinternaltemperatureforporkwas180degrees—anappropriatetemperatureforpre-WWIIpork,buthardlyrightfortoday’syoung,lean,“otherwhitemeat.”TheNationalPorkProducersCouncilcurrentlypromotes160degreesasthenewstandard,butwefoundporkcookedtothistemperaturewasstilltoodry.Thetestkitchensuggestsafinaltemperatureof145degrees,keepinginmindthatlargercutsofporkcanberemovedfromheatatroughly135degrees,covered,andallowedtorest,duringwhichtimethetemperaturewillrisebyatleast10degrees.(Besuretocheckthefinaltemperaturebeforeservingtomakecertainthatitreaches145degrees.)Isitsafetocookporktothistemperature?Inaword,yes.Giventhe

controlledgrain-baseddietofpigsthesedays,trichinosisisvirtuallynon-existent.AccordingtoDavidMeisinger,assistantvicepresidentofporkqualityfortheNationalPorkProducersCouncil,theveryfewreportedincidentsarearesultofprivatelyraisedpigsandrusticproductionconditions.Evenso,trichinosisiskilledat140degrees.Inanefforttokeepcustomershappyandporkjuicyevenifit’sbeen

somewhatovercooked,porkproducershaveintroducedaproductcalled“enhancedpork”tothemarket.Enhancedporkisinjectedwithasolutionofwater,salt,andsodiumphosphate,allofwhichareamongtheingredientsusedtocureporkwhenmakingbacon.Theobjectiveistobothseasontheporkfromwithinandtomakeitmoreresistanttodryingoutwhencooked.Theprocessissimilartothatusedbysometurkeyproducersinanefforttokeepthebreastmeatfromdryingoutduringcooking.Curiousaboutenhancedpork,wepurchasedtwopackagesofporkchops

atlocalmarkets,oneofwhichwaslabeled“enhanced.”Wesautéedthechops,cookingthemtoatemperatureof145degrees,thenletthemsit,covered,forfiveminutestoletthejuicesredistributethemselvesthroughoutthemeat.Theresults?Mosttastersfoundtheenhancedporkjuicierandmoretender.Butwhiletheunenhancedporkwasfoundtobedrierandtoughertochew,itwasalsodescribedbysometastersashavingamore

toughertochew,itwasalsodescribedbysometastersashavingamorenaturalporkflavor,whichtheypreferredtothesomewhatsaltytasteoftheenhancedpork.

COUNTRYHAM

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Traditiondictatesthatcountryham—theSouth’ssalty,agedcousintotoday’sspiral-cuthams—requireslengthysoakingbeforescoringandbaking.Wewerereadytofollowsuituntilwediscoveredthatsoakingthehamneitherdrewoutexcesssaltnorincreasedmoisture—thelong-acceptedreasoningbehindthistime-consumingprep.Workingwithcountryhamsagedbetweenthreeandsixmonths,weskippedthesoakingandsimmeringaltogether.Wescrubbedoffthemold(anormalresultoftheagingprocess),trimmedofftheskin,andscoredthesurface,thenmovedthehamrighttotheoven.Weplacedthehamfatsideupinaroastingpanandensuredplentyofmoisture-boostingsteambypouringinwaterandcoveringthepanwithaluminumfoil.Afterbakingthehamfor4to5hours,wemixed

withaluminumfoil.Afterbakingthehamfor4to5hours,wemixedtogetheraglazeofbrownsugar,drymustard,andpepperandrubbeditovertheham’ssurface.Wereturnedthehamtotheovenforafewmoreminutestosettheglazeandthenletitrestonacarvingboardbeforeslicing.Inrecordtime,wehadmoistslicesofcountryhamwithacrustysugarcoatingonourplates,perfectlypairedwithspicy-sweetJezebelSauce.

1(13-to15-pound)3-to6-month-oldbone-incountryham

cuppackedlightbrownsugar

1 tablespoondrymustard

2 teaspoonspepper

COUNTRYHAM

SERVES12TO15

Usehamsagedsixmonthsorlessforthisrecipe.Moldoncountryhamisnotasignofspoilage;itisanaturaleffectofthecuringandagingprocess.ServehamonbiscuitswithJezebelSauce.Leftoverhamisdeliciousinscrambledeggs,cheesegrits,macaroniandcheese,andallmannerofthings.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento325degrees.Usingclean,stiff-bristledbrush,scrubhamundercoldrunningwatertoremoveanysurfacemold.Transferhamtocuttingboardandtrimoffdrymeat,skin,andallbut¼inchoffat.Scorefatcapin½-inchcrosshatchpattern,¼inchdeep.

2.Transferhamtoroastingpanfatsideup,add1quartwater,andcoverpantightlywithaluminumfoil.Bakeuntilthickestpartofmeatregisters140degrees,4to5hours.Removehamfromoven,discardfoil,andincreaseoventemperatureto450degrees.

3.Combinesugar,mustard,andpepperinbowlandrubovertopofham.Returnhamtoovenandcook,uncovered,untilglazed,12to17minutes.Transferhamtocarvingboardandletrestfor20minutes.Carvethinslicesandserve.

cuppineapplepreserves

cupapplejelly

cupyellowmustard

cuppreparedhorseradish

teaspoonspepper

JEZEBELSAUCE

MAKESABOUT2CUPS

Granted,it’sanodd-soundingmixofingredients,butit’sactuallyasurprisinglygreatpairingwithcountryham.Welikethissauceonaturkeysandwich,too.

Combineallingredientsinblenderandprocessuntilsmooth,20to30seconds.

COUNTRYHAMSONTHERISE

Europehasitsfabledcuredhams—prosciuttoinItaly,jamónibéricoinSpain—butwe’vegotone,too.Countryhamisastrong,salty,dry-curedproductproducedprimarilyinVirginia,NorthCarolina,Tennessee,Kentucky,andMissouri.JustsevenmillioncountryhamsaresoldannuallyintheUnitedStates,butwithincreasedinterestinartisanalandlocalfoods,thecurrentloveaffairwithanythingpig,andtheexplosionofInternetmailordering,thesesmall-townSouthernhamsseempoisedtohitthebigtime.Beinghamloversourselves,wewantedin.Bydefinition,ahamisthecutofmeattakenfromtheupperpartofa

pig’sbackleg;formany,it’saholidaytablecenterpiece,spiral-cutandlacqueredwithasugaryglaze.Butthatisacityham,madebyinjectingorsoakingafreshhaminbrineandsoldcooked,tobesimplyheatedandserved.Whilecityhamscanbereadyformarketin24hours,countryhamscure

foranywherefromthreemonthstoyears.Traditionally,itwasawaytopreservethemeatinprerefrigerationdays:Hogswereslaughteredinthefall;thehamswererubbedwithsalt,sugar,andspicesandthenlefttocureduringthewinter,withthesaltdrawingoutmoisture.Comespring,theywerecleanedandhung,andsomeweresmoked.Finally,inthewarmsummermonths,thehamswereaged.Theheatacceleratedenzymaticactivity,whichimpartedtherobust,pungentflavorsthatoneproducerhasdescribedastheham’s“countrytwang.”Thiscenturies-oldseasonalstyleofmakingcountryhamisknownasan“ambient”cure.Today,virtuallyallcommercialcured-hammakersusespecialagingroomstomimictheseasons,withtemperature,airflow,andhumidityundercarefullymonitoredcontrol.MuchasbarbecuefanaticsfightoverMemphisversusCarolinaversus

Texas,countryhamproshavepartisanloyalties.Tastinghamsfromdifferentstates,theywarnedus,waslikecomparingappleswithoranges.Wetastedhamsacrossthegeographicrangeandlovedtheirporky,complexflavors,developedfromagingtemperaturesthatrun10to30degreeshotter

flavors,developedfromagingtemperaturesthatrun10to30degreeshotterthanthoseusedforEuropeancuredhams.Withallduerespect,whenitcomestotheserobust,saltyhamsfrom

downSouth,it’snotapplesandoranges.McIntoshandGrannySmithmightbemoreapt.

BISCUITDRESSING

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Whilemanyofthecentury-oldrecipesweuncoveredforthisAppalachianstuffingwerevagueintheirinstructions,therewasnoquestionabouttheircrowningfeature:thebutteryflavorofbiscuits.Inordertobakeupourowndressingwithoutthetwo-daywait,westartedwithasimpledump-and-stirbuttermilkbiscuitrecipe.Weportioned1-inchpiecesofbiscuitdoughontoabakingsheetandintentionallyoverbakedthem,turningoutcrunchyminiaturebiscuits—asgoodasstaleinjust25minutes.Asforthevegetables,weoptedforasavorycombinationofonionandcelerysautéedinbutterandseasonedwiththymeandsage.Toassemble,wecrumbledthebiscuitsintoabowl,addedthevegetables,andstirredinamixtureofeggandchickenbroth.Bakedfor40minutes,thedressingemergedwitha

andchickenbroth.Bakedfor40minutes,thedressingemergedwithabeautifulbrowncrust,moistcenter,andthatdistinctlybutterybiscuitgoodness.

BISCUITS

1 tablespoonbakingpowder

teaspoonbakingsoda

teaspoonssugar

teaspoonssalt

1½ cupsbuttermilk,chilled

BISCUITDRESSING

SERVES10TO12

Flouryourfingerstokeepthebiscuitdoughfromstickinginstep2.Thebiscuitscanbebakedandcooledadayaheadoftimeandstoredatroomtemperature.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

DRESSING

2onions,choppedfine

3celeryribs,minced

2 tablespoonschoppedfreshsage

2 tablespoonschoppedfreshthyme

teaspoonspepper

1 teaspoonsalt

4 cupschickenbroth

4 largeeggs

1.FORTHEBISCUITS:Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento400degrees.Line2rimmedbakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Whiskflour,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,sugar,andsalttogetherinlargebowl.Combinebuttermilkandmeltedbutterinbowlandstiruntilbutterformsclumps.Addbuttermilkmixturetodryingredientsandstirwithrubberspatulauntiljustincorporated.

2.Usingflouredfingers,breakoff1-inchpiecesofdoughandscatterevenlyonbakingsheets.Bakeuntiltopsaredeepgoldenbrown,about25minutes,switchingandrotatingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Letbiscuitscoolonsheets.Donotturnovenoff.(Completelycooledbiscuitscanbestoredatroomtemperatureforupto24hours.)Whenbiscuitsarecoolenoughtohandle,crumbleinto½-inchpiecesintolargebowl.

3.FORTHEDRESSING:Grease13by9-inchbakingdish.Meltbutterin12-inchskilletovermedium-lowheat.Addonionsandceleryandcook,covered,untilsoftenedandlightlybrowned,10to12minutes,stirringoccasionally.Stirinsage,thyme,pepper,andsaltandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addvegetablemixturetobowlwithbiscuits.

4.Whiskbrothandeggstogetherinbowl.Addbrothmixturetobiscuitsandvegetablesandstirgentlytocombine.Letsituntilbiscuitshavesoftenedslightly,about3minutes.Transfertopreparedbakingdishandpressgentlyintoevenlayer.Bakedressingonlower-middlerackuntiltopisgoldenbrownandcrisp,35to40minutes,rotatingdishhalfwaythroughbaking.Letcoolfor20minutesbeforeserving.

BISCUITBITS

Weneededbiscuitsthatwouldn’tfallapartevenafterwemoistenedthemtobuildthedressing.Sowemadetinybiscuits,pinchingthedoughinto1-inchbits,toyieldmorefirmedgesandlessfluffymiddle.Wealso“prestaled”thembybakingthemnearlytwiceaslongasafull-sizebiscuitwouldbake.

FRIEDCATFISH

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

VeryfewMississippirestaurantsdon’thavefriedcatfishonthemenu,butthisfirm,mildfishrarelymakesmuchofanimpactnorthofthedelta.Wewantedtore-createthecrunchy,seasonedcoatingwefellfordownSouthusingingredientswecouldtrackdownatanysupermarket.Tomakesureourcoatingstayedput,wedunkedthecatfishinaflavorfulmixtureofbuttermilkandhotsaucebeforerollingeachfilletincornmeal.Slicingourcatfishfilletsinhalfmadeformoremanageablefryingandincreasedeachpiece’ssurfacearea,uppingourcoating-to-fishratio.Usingacombinationofcoarseandfinelygroundcornmealproducedthebestcrunchandtexture.Ontopofthespicykickwegotfromthehotsauce–buttermilkdunk,weboostedflavorfurtherbyaddingsalt,pepper,garlic,andcayennetothe

boostedflavorfurtherbyaddingsalt,pepper,garlic,andcayennetothecornmealblend.Ourfriedcatfish“tenders”boastedappealingcrunchandspiceineverybite,onlymadebetterwiththecreamy,sweet-and-spicyflavorsofourhomemadeComebackSauce.

2 cupsbuttermilk

1 teaspoonhotsauce

2 cupscornmeal

4 teaspoonssalt

2 teaspoonspepper

2 teaspoonsgranulatedgarlic

1 teaspooncayennepepper

4(6-to8-ounce)catfishfillets,halvedlengthwisealongnaturalseam

FRIEDCATFISH

SERVES4TO6

UseaDutchoventhatholds6quartsormoreforthisrecipe.Ifyourspicegrinderissmall,grindthecornmealinbatchesorprocessitinablenderfor60to90seconds.ServewithComebackSauce.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

Lemonwedges

1.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheetandlinehalfofrackwithtriplelayerofpapertowels.Whiskbuttermilkandhotsaucetogetherinshallowdish.Process1cupcornmealinspicegrindertofinepowder,30to45seconds.Whisksalt,pepper,granulatedgarlic,cayenne,remaining1cupcornmeal,andgroundcornmealtogetherinsecondshallowdish.

2.Patfishdrywithpapertowels.Workingwith1pieceoffishatatime,dipfishinbuttermilkmixture,lettingexcessdripbackintodish.Dredgefishincornmealmixture,shakingoffexcess,andtransfertolargeplate.

3.AddoiltolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasuresabout1½inchesdeepandheatovermedium-highheatto350degrees.Workingwith4piecesoffishatatime,addfishtohotoil.Adjustburner,ifnecessary,tomaintainoiltemperaturebetween325and350degrees.Fryfishuntilgoldenbrownandcrisp,about5minutes.Transferfishtopapertowel–linedsideofpreparedrackandletdrainfor1minute,thenmovetounlinedsideofrack.Returnoilto350degreesandrepeatwithremainingfish.Servewithlemonwedges.

cupmayonnaise

cupchoppedonion

2 tablespoonschilisauce

1 tablespoonketchup

teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce

teaspoonshotsauce

1 teaspoonyellowmustard

COMEBACKSAUCE

MAKESABOUT1CUP

Chilisauce,acondimentsimilartoketchup,hasasweetflavorandsubtlespicykick;donotsubstituteAsianchili-garlicsauce.

1 teaspoonlemonjuice

1garlicclove,minced

teaspoonpepper

teaspoonpaprika

Processallingredientsinblenderuntilsmooth,about30seconds.Saucecanberefrigeratedforupto5days.

EATINGLOCAL TAYLOR,MS

LynnHewlettboughtTAYLORGROCERYin1998,althoughthestoriedbusinesshasbeeninoperationsince1890.Likemostboysinthearea,Hewlettgrewupfishingforcatfishinlocalstreams.Now,hemakesalivingsellinghisfamouscatfishinseveralversions:friedwholecatfish,friedfillets,blackened,andgrilledcatfish.Forhisfriedfish,herinsesandholdscatfishinverycoldwatertoremoveoff-flavorsandkeepthefishfirmbeforecoatingeachpieceinamixtureofcornmeal,creammeal(finelygroundcornmeal),andhisownTaylorseasoning(ablendofsalt,pepper,garlic,andotherspices).Hefriesinoilheatedto325degrees,alittlelowerthanmostrecipes,toproduceacoatingthatiscrispbutnothard.Hetakesgreatprideinthisprocess.“Foodisabigdealdownhere,”heexplains.“Otherplaces,peopleeattolive.Downherepeoplelivetoeat.It’sallaboutthefood.”Wecangetbehindthat.

TAYLORGROCERY4-ADepotSt.,Taylor,MS

SOUTHCAROLINASHRIMPBURGERS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

NewEnglandhasthelobsterrollandMarylanditsfamouscrabcakes,butwhenitcomestoshrimp,it’stimetoheadsouth.TheshrimpburgersservedupinSouthCarolinaputtheregion’ssweetshrimpfrontandcenter.Wewantedtore-createthecleanshrimptasteandcrispcrustathome,butwithoutadeepfryeronhandwehadtoberesourceful.Wecreatedthepatty’smeatytexturebyfinelychoppingathirdoftheshrimpinafoodprocessorandcoarselychoppingtheremainingshrimp.Thisstepalsomadeourshrimpslightlystickyforeasybinding,aidedfurtherbysomecayenne-seasonedmayonnaise.Choppedscallionsgaveourburgersextrafreshflavor.Foracrunchycoatingreadytocrispupinourskillet,weprocessedpankobreadcrumbs,creatingafinecrumbthatevenlycoatedthepatties.

pankobreadcrumbs,creatingafinecrumbthatevenlycoatedthepatties.Wefriedtheseburgersinoiluntiltheyemergedcrispandbrown.Weputthefinishingtouchesonourshrimpburgersbyservingthemonasoftbunwithasmearofhomemadetartarsauce.

TARTARSAUCE

cupmayonnaise

3tablespoonsfinelychoppeddillpicklesplus1teaspoonbrine

1smallshallot,minced

1tablespooncapers,rinsedandchoppedfine

teaspoonpepper

SOUTHCAROLINASHRIMPBURGERS

SERVES4

Wepreferuntreatedshrimp—thosewithoutaddedsodiumorpreservativeslikesodiumtripolyphosphate(STPP).Mostfrozenshrimphavebeentreated(theingredientlistshouldtellyou).Ifyou’reusinguntreatedshrimp,increasetheamountofsaltto½teaspoon.Ifyou’repurchasingshell-onshrimp,youshouldbuyabout1½pounds.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

BURGERS

1 cuppankobreadcrumbs

1¼ poundslargeshrimp(26to30perpound),peeled,deveined,andtailsremoved

2 tablespoonsmayonnaise

teaspoonpepper

teaspoonsalt

3scallions,choppedfine

4 hamburgerbuns

4 leavesBibblettuce

1.FORTHETARTARSAUCE:Combineallingredientsinbowlandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

2.FORTHEBURGERS:Pulsepankoinfoodprocessoruntilfinelyground,about15pulses;transfertoshallowdish.Placeone-thirdofshrimp(1cup),mayonnaise,pepper,salt,andcayenneinnow-emptyprocessorandpulseuntilshrimparefinelychopped,about8pulses.Addremainingtwo-thirdsofshrimp(2cups)toshrimpmixtureinprocessorandpulseuntilcoarselychopped,about4pulses,scrapingdownsidesofbowlasneeded.Transfershrimpmixturetobowlandstirinscallions.

3.Divideshrimpmixtureintofour¾-inch-thickpatties(about½cupeach).Workingwith1pattyatatime,dredgebothsidesofpattiesinpanko,pressinglightlytoadhere,andtransfertoplate.

4.Heatoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Placepattiesinskilletandcookuntilgoldenbrownonfirstside,3to5minutes.Carefullyflipandcontinuetocookuntilshrimpregisters140to145degreesandsecondsideisgoldenbrown,3to5minuteslonger.Transferburgerstopapertowel–linedplateandletdrain,about30secondsperside.Spreadtartarsauceonbunbottoms,thenplaceburgersandlettuceontop.Coverwithbuntops.Serve.

PEELINGANDDEVEININGSHRIMP

1.Breakshellunderswimminglegs,whichwillcomeoffasshellisremoved.Leavetailintactifdesired,ortugtailtoremoveshell.

2.Useparingknifetomakeshallowcutalongbackofshrimptoexposevein.Usetipofknifetoliftoutvein.Discardveinbywipingbladeagainstpapertowel.

PERFECTSHRIMPJAMBALAYA

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Whenitcomestoone-potmeals,youcan’ttopshrimpjambalaya.ForasatisfyingCajunmedleyofperfectlycookedshrimp,sausage,rice,andvegetables,wecookedtheingredientsinstages,ensuringoptimalflavorandtextureineverybite.Browninghalf-moonslicesofandouillereleasedthesausage’ssmoky,spicyoil,whichweusedtobrownourshell-onshrimp.Theshellscontributedextrashrimpflavor,andaddingbrinyclamjuiceinsteadofchickenbrothtocookthericehighlightedtheseafoodnotesevenfurther.Tomatopaste,dicedtomatoes,andreservedtomatojuicegavethejambalayaitscolorandbrighttomatoflavors.Formoist,tenderrice,wetransferredourjump-startedjambalayafromthestovetoptotheoventofinishcooking,addingalayerofaluminumfoilontopofthericetocontain

finishcooking,addingalayerofaluminumfoilontopofthericetocontainthesteam.Peelingtheshrimpandaddingthemforthelast5minutesintheovenresultedinperfectlycookedcrustaceans.

2 teaspoonsvegetableoil

8ouncesandouillesausage,halvedlengthwiseandsliced¼inchthick

1poundshell-onlargeshrimp(26to30perpound)

1largeonion,choppedfine

1celeryrib,minced

1½ cupslong-grainwhiterice

PERFECTSHRIMPJAMBALAYA

SERVES4TO6

Ifyoucan’tfindandouillesausage,substituteanequalamountofSpanish-stylechorizo.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 teaspoonsalt

teaspoonmincedfreshthyme

1(14.5-ounce)candicedtomatoes,drainedwith¼cupjuicereserved

1 bayleaf

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento325degrees.

2.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addsausageandcookuntilbrowned,3to5minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transfersausagetopapertowel–linedplate.Addshrimptopotandcookuntilshellsarelightlybrownedonbothsides,about1minuteperside.Transfershrimptolargebowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerate.(Shrimpandsausagecanberefrigeratedseparatelyforupto24hours.)3.Reduceheattomediumandaddonion,celery,bellpepper,andgarlictopot.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilvegetableshavesoftened,5to10minutes.Addrice,tomatopaste,salt,andthymeandcookuntilriceiscoatedwithfat,about1minute.Stirinclamjuice,tomatoesandreservedjuice,bayleaf,andsausage.Placesquareofaluminumfoildirectlyonsurfaceofriceandpressagainstsidesofpot.Bringtoboil,coverpot,transfertooven,andbakeuntilriceisalmosttenderandmostofliquidisabsorbed,about20minutes.

4.Meanwhile,peelanddeveinshrimpanddiscardshells.Removepotfromoven,liftofffoil,andgentlystirinpeeledshrimpandanyaccumulatedjuices.Replacefoilandlid,returnpottooven,andcookuntilriceisfullytenderandshrimparecookedthrough,about5minutes.Removepotfromoven,discardfoilandbayleaf,foldinscallions,andserve.

FOILEDAGAIN!

Bakingthejambalayaintheovenensuresthatthericewon’tscorch,asoftenhappenswhenthisdishispreparedontopofthestove.Agreatformofinsuranceagainstanypersistentlycrunchygrainsofriceisasheetofaluminumfoil,placeddirectlyonthesurfaceoftherice(andpressedagainstthesidesofthepot)beforethejambalayagoesintotheoven.Thefoilholdsinsteamandheat,ensuringthateverygrainofricecooksperfectly.And,whateveryoudo,don’tstirthericeasitcooks—thiswillonlymakeitgluey.

SOUTHCAROLINASHRIMPBOIL

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

InspiredbyFrogmorestew(whichcontainsnofrogsandisn’tevenastew),shrimpboilsmakearegularappearanceatbackyardpicnicsandalongSouthCarolina’scoastincasualseasiderestaurants.ThoughOldBayisthisstew’sstarseasoning,wewantedthesummerynotesofshrimpandcorntoreallyshine,sowestaggeredtheircookingtimesandinjectedbright,robustflavorsalongtheway.Webrownedpiecesofsmoky,spicyandouillesausageandleftitsrenderedfatinthepottocarryitsflavorintothebrinybrothofclamjuiceandwater.WesimmeredOldBay,abayleaf,tomatoes,potatoes,andcut-upearsofcornuntilthepotatoeswerejusttender,thenaddedthebrownedsausagebacktothepot.Toaddflavorandkeepthemmoist,wecookedseasoned,shell-onshrimpinasteamerbasketsetatopthe

moist,wecookedseasoned,shell-onshrimpinasteamerbasketsetatopthevegetables.Withourshrimpboilcookedtoperfection,allweweremissingwasthepicnictable.

1½ poundsandouillesausage,cutinto2-inchlengths

4 cupswater

1(8-ounce)bottleclamjuice

5 teaspoonsOldBayseasoning

1 bayleaf

1½ poundssmallredpotatoes,scrubbedandhalved

4earscorn,husksandsilkremoved,cutinto2-inchrounds

SOUTHCAROLINASHRIMPBOIL

SERVES8

Thisdishisalwaysmadewithshell-onshrimp,andwethinkpeelingthemishalfthefun.Ifyoupreferpeeledshrimp,useonly1teaspoonofOldBayinstep3.Can’tfindandouille?Substitutekielbasasausageandadd¼teaspoonofcayennepeppertothebrothinstep2.Usesmallredpotatoesmeasuring1to2inchesindiameter.

2 poundsextra-largeshrimp(21to25perpound)

1.HeatsausageandoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilfatrendersandsausageisbrowned,about5minutes;usingslottedspoon,transfersausagetoplate.

2.Addwater,clamjuice,tomatoes,3teaspoonsOldBay,bayleaf,potatoes,andcorntopotandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmer,covered,untilpotatoesarebarelytender,about10minutes.

3.Returnbrownedsausagetopot.Tossshrimpwithremaining2teaspoonsOldBayandtransfertocollapsiblesteamerbasket.Nestlesteamerbasketintopot.Cook,covered,stirringshrimpoccasionally,untilcookedthrough,about10minutes.Strainstewanddiscardbayleaf.Serve.

OLDBAY’SORIGINS

OldBayseasoning,akeyingredientinourSouthCarolinaShrimpBoil,wascreatedin1941byaGerman-Jewishspicemerchantandrefugee.GustavBrunnhadarrivedinAmericajusttwoyearsearlier,afterspending16daysinaconcentrationcamp.ThefamilymanagedtosecurehisreleaseandfledtoAmericawithBrunn’sspicegrinder.Brunn,whospokelittleEnglish,hadtroublegettingajob,soheopenedabusinessbytheportofBaltimore.Observingseafoodmerchantssteamingcrabsintheirownspiceblends,hedevelopedhisownblend,namingitOldBayafteradefunctsteamshipline.Thebusinessremainedinthefamilyuntilthe1980s.McCormick&CompanynowownsOldBayandstillfollowstheoriginalrecipe.

LAYEREDCOOKING

Ourstaggeredcookingmethoddevelopsflavorandguaranteesthateachingredientisperfectlycooked.

1.Browningsausagerendersfatandbuildsflavor,givingstewaspicybaseofflavor.

2.Potatoesandcorngetaheadstart,givingthemtimetosoakupflavorsandbecometender.

3.Fortendersausage,returnbrownedsausagetopotforlast10minutesofcooking.

4.Steamseasonedshrimpoversimmeringstewtoensuretheyarejusttenderandwellseasoned.

SHRIMPÉTOUFFÉE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSÉtoufféeisaclassicCreoleseafoodstewservedoverrice.Tore-createitslush,velvetysauce,westartedbymakingourownshrimpstock.Weusedtheshellsof2poundsofextra-largeshrimpasthebase,cookingtheminbutterwithonionsandcelerybeforeaddingspicesandwatertothepot.Whilethatsimmered,weturnedourattentiontotheroux.Wediscoveredthattoastingflourinadrypotuntilitturnedfragrantandlightbrownspedupthisstepconsiderably.Voilà—ourrouxwasreadyinabout5minutes.Westirredinchoppedvegetablesandfragrantspices,savingdicedtomatoesandtheirjuiceforlast.Oncethesaucehadreduced,weslowlyaddedourstockandletitthicken.Theshrimpwereaddedlast,simmeredforjust5

minutes.FinishedwithscallionsandWorcestershire,ourétoufféewasreadytobespoonedoverabedofwhiterice.

9tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto9pieces

2poundsextra-largeshrimp(21to25perpound),peeledanddeveined,shellsreserved

3onions,chopped

3celeryribs,chopped

Saltandpepper

5 cupswater

8garliccloves(2peeledandsmashed,6minced)

1 tablespoonpeppercorns

SHRIMPÉTOUFFÉE

SERVES4TO6

Youwillneed3cupsofchoppedonionand1½cupsofchoppedcelery,whicharedividedbetweentheshrimpstockandtheétouffée.Ifyoucan’tfindshell-onshrimp,skipstep1andsubstitute3cupsofwater,1(8-ounce)bottleofclamjuice,and¾teaspoonofsaltforthestockinstep3.ServewithWhiteRice.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

3 bayleaves

2sprigsfreshthyme,plus1teaspoonminced

1greenbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andchopped

1 teaspoonsmokedpaprika

2 teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce

Hotsauce

Lemonwedges

1.Melt1tablespoonbutterinDutchovenovermediumheat.Addshrimpshells,2cupsonions,½cupcelery,and1teaspoonsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilshellsarespottybrown,about10minutes.Addwater,smashedgarlic,peppercorns,bayleaves,andthymesprigsandbringtoboil.Reduceheattolow,cover,andsimmerfor30minutes.Strainshrimpstockthroughfine-meshstrainersetoverlargebowl,pressingonsolidstoextractasmuchliquidaspossible;discardsolids.Washanddrypot.(Stockcanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto1month.)2.Toastflourinnow-emptypotovermediumheat,stirringconstantly,untiljustbeginningtobrown,about5minutes.Whiskinremaining8tablespoonsbutteruntilmeltedandcombinedwithflour.Continuetocook,whiskingconstantly,untildeepbrown,4to6minutes.

3.Addbellpepper,remainingonions,remainingcelery,1teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperandcook,stirringoften,untilvegetablesaresoftened,10to12minutes.Addpaprika,cayenne,mincedgarlic,andmincedthymeandcookuntilfragrant,about1minute.Stirintomatoesandtheirjuiceandcookuntildry,about1minute.Slowlywhiskin4cupsshrimpstockuntilincorporated(reserveanyremainingstockforanotheruse).Bringtoboil,reduceheattomedium-low,andsimmeruntilslightlythickened,about25minutes.

4.Seasonshrimpwithsaltandpepper,addtopot,andsimmeruntilcookedthrough,about5minutes.StirinscallionsandWorcestershire.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serveoverricewithhotsauceandlemonwedges.

3 cupswater

1 teaspoonsalt

WHITERICE

SERVES6TO8

Rinsingtherice,whichremovesmuchoftheexteriorstarch,producesthelightest,fluffiestresult.

1.Placericeinfine-meshstrainersetoverlargebowl.Rinseunderrunningwateruntilwaterrunsclear,about1minute.Drainricewell.

2.Meltbutterinlargesaucepanovermediumheat.Addriceandcook,stirringfrequently,untiledgesbegintoturntranslucent,about2minutes.Addwaterandsaltandbringtoboil.

3.Cover,reduceheattolow,andsimmeruntilliquidisabsorbedandriceistender,about20minutes.Offheat,removelidandplacekitchentoweloversaucepan.Coverandletstandfor10minutes.Fluffwithfork.Serve.

SOUTHERN-STYLEGREENBEANS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSUnlikeyourstandardbrightgreensidedish,Southerngreenbeansboastanarmy-greenhuethanksto4ormorehoursofcooking.Theyalsotakeonanirresistiblesalty,smokyflavoraftertheirlongsimmer.Wewantedtocapturetheseelementswithinanhour.Atwo-prongedbaconapproachwasoursecretweapon,impartingthedish’ssignatureporkynotesquickly.Aftercrispingtwoslicesofbacon,weusedtherenderedfattocooktheonion.Weaddedthreeuncookedslicesofbaconalongwiththegreenbeans,water,salt,andalittlesugar,whichbroughtinawelcometouchofgentlesweetness.Wesimmeredouringredientsfor45minutes,justenoughtimetoreducetheliquidandconcentratetheflavors.Afterweremovedthebaconslicesandreducedtheliquidfurther,ourgreenbeanswereflavorfuland

slicesandreducedtheliquidfurther,ourgreenbeanswereflavorfulandperfectlycooked—almostbutnotquitefallingapart.Asprinklingofcrispedbaconaddedacrunchyfinishingtouch.

5 slicesbacon

1largeonion,halvedandslicedthin

3poundsgreenbeans,trimmed

cupswater

Saltandpepper

1 teaspoonsugar

SOUTHERN-STYLEGREENBEANS

SERVES6TO8

Thelong-simmeredbeanswilleasilybreakapart;besuretohandlethemgently.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1.Cook2slicesbaconinDutchovenovermediumheatuntilcrisp,5to7minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowel–linedplate,leavingfatinpot.Addoniontonow-emptypotandcookuntilsoftened,about6minutes.Addgreenbeans,water,2teaspoonssalt,sugar,andremaining3slicesbaconandbringtoboil.Cover,reduceheattomedium-low,andsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilgreenbeansareverytender,about45minutes.

2.Removelidanddiscardbacon.Increaseheattomedium-highandcookuntilliquidisreducedslightly,about5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.(Stircarefullytoavoidbreakingapartgreenbeans.)Transfergreenbeanstoservingbowl.Crumblereservedbaconovertopbeforeserving.

TRIMMINGGREENBEANS

Lineupseveralgreenbeansinarowoncuttingboard.Trimabout½inchfromeachend,thencutbeansasdirectedinyourfavoritegreenbeanrecipes.

FREEZINGBACON

Baconisoftensoldbythepoundorhalf-pound,butsincemanyrecipescallforjustafewslices,you’reboundtohavesomeleftovers.Buthowcanyoufreezebaconsothatyoucanuseeachsliceasneeded?

Wehavefoundthatthebestwayissimplytorollupeachslice(ortwoslicestogether)tightly,puttherolledbaconinazipper-lockbag,andfreezeit.Thenyoucanpulloutthedesirednumberofslicesasyouneedthem.

BAKEDCHEESEGRITS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

AversatileSouthernspecialty,gritsareservedatbreakfast,lunch,anddinnerandinitsmanyforms,fromsimmeredtodeepfried,sweettosavory.Wewerelookingtoperfectbakedcheesegrits,aimingforacrispbrownedcrust,acreamycenter,andadelicatebalanceofcheeseandspice.Webeganbuildingsavoryflavorbycookingchoppedonioninbutter,addingheavycreamforrichnessandpiquanthotsauceforcontrast.Alongwithwater,westirredinold-fashionedgrits—preferredoverinstantfortheircreamyyetpleasinglycoarsetexture.Extra-sharpcheddarfoldedintothecookedgritscomplementedthesubtlecornflavors(foramoreassertivesideatdinnertime,welikedsmokedcheddar).Tocreateadense,polenta-liketexture,westirredinthreelightlybeateneggs.Onceintheoven,ourgritsdevelopeda

stirredinthreelightlybeateneggs.Onceintheoven,ourgritsdevelopedagorgeousgoldencrust—helpedalongbyanextrasprinklingofcheeseaddedduringbaking—andtheirrich,heartyflavormadethemperfectforpairingwitheverythingfromeggsandbacontoroastchicken.

2tablespoonsplus1teaspoonunsaltedbutter

1smallonion,choppedfine

3 cupswater

1 cupheavycream

teaspoonhotsauce

Saltandpepper

1⅛ cupsold-fashionedgrits

8ouncesextra-sharpcheddarcheese,shredded(about2cups)

BAKEDCHEESEGRITS

SERVES4TO6

Old-fashionedgritsarewellworththeextra10minutesofcooking;instantgritswillbakeuptoosmoothandhaveanoverprocessedflavor.Gritsarereadywhentheyarecreamyandsmoothbutretainalittlefine-texturedcoarseness.Wepreferaverysharpagedcheddar,butfeelfreetouseanyextra-sharpcheddaryoulike.Or,foraheartierflavormoresuitabletobrunchoradinnersidedish,substitutesmokedcheddarorsmokedgouda.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Grease9-inchsquarebakingdishwith1teaspoonbutter.

2.Heatremaining2tablespoonsbutterinlargesaucepanovermediumheatuntilfoambeginstosubside.Addonionandcookuntilsoftenedbutnotbrowned,about4minutes.

3.Addwater,cream,hotsauce,and½teaspoonsaltandbringtoboil.Whiskingritsandreduceheattolow.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilgritsarethickandcreamy,about15minutes.

4.Offheat,thoroughlystirin1½cupscheese,eggs,andpeppertotaste.Pourmixtureintogreasedbakingdish,smoothtopwithrubberspatula,andplacegritsinoven.

5.Bakefor30minutes.Removedishfromoven,sprinkleremaining½cupcheeseevenlyovertop,andreturntooven.Continuebakinguntiltopisbrowned,about15minutes.Letrestfor5minutesandserve.

STAYINGSHARP

Sowhatisextra-sharpcheddar?Itdependsonwhomyouask.TheU.S.DepartmentofAgriculture’sonlyrequirementregardingcheddaristhatthefinalproductcontainatleast50percentmilk-fatsolidsandnomorethan39percentmoisturebyweight.Asforwhatdistinguishesdifferentvarietiesofcheddar—mild,medium,sharp,extra-sharp,andbeyond—thatisleftinthehandsofthecheesemakers.Ourresearchrevealedthatmostextra-sharpcheddarsareagedfromnineto18months.Thismuchwedoknowforsure:Ascheddarages,newflavorcompoundsarecreated,andthecheesegetsfirmerintextureandmoreconcentratedinflavor—anditgetssharper.

FRIEDGREENTOMATOES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Southerncookshavelongmadethemostofanunripecropbydunkingslicedgreentomatoesinbreadingandfryingthemtoacrisp,goldencrust.Foracoatingthatwouldn’tslideoff,wefirstdrainedtomatoslicesonpapertowelstoabsorbexcessmoisture.Oncepatteddry,thetomatoeswerereadyforbreading.Wefoundprocessingcornmealtoafinecrumbminimizeditsgrittiness;wemixeditwithflour,cayenne,andmorecornmeal.Wedunkedtheslicesinamixtureofeggandbuttermilkanddredgedthemthroughourcornmealblendbeforefryinginpeanutoil.Theacidinthebuttermilkhelpedthestarchycoatingabsorbmoisture,makingitespeciallycrispwhenfried.Afterjustafewminutes,thesesweet-tarttomatoesdevelopedatastygolden-browncrustthatwassogood,wefoundourselveslookingforward

golden-browncrustthatwassogood,wefoundourselveslookingforwardtothefirstfrostwithitsbonanzaofgreen(never-to-ripen)tomatoes.

1½ poundsgreentomatoes,coredandsliced¼inchthick⅔

cupcornmeal

⅓ cupall-purposeflour1½

teaspoonssalt

teaspoonpepper

cupbuttermilk

1 largeegg

2 cupspeanutorvegetableoil

FRIEDGREENTOMATOES

SERVES4

You’llneedfourtofivegreentomatoesforthisrecipe.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1.Placetomatoesonpapertowel–linedrimmedbakingsheet.Coverwithmorepapertowels,letsitfor20minutes,andpatdry.Meanwhile,process⅓cupcornmealinblenderuntilveryfinelyground,about1minute.Combineprocessedcornmeal,remaining⅓cupcornmeal,flour,salt,pepper,andcayenneinshallowdish.Whiskbuttermilkandeggtogetherinsecondshallowdish.

2.Workingwith1atatime,diptomatoslicesinbuttermilkmixture,thendredgeincornmealmixture,pressingfirmlytoadhere;transfertocleanbakingsheet.

3.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Heatoilin12-inchskilletovermedium-highheatto350degrees.Fry4tomatoslicesuntilgoldenbrownonbothsides,4to6minutes.Drainonpreparedwirerack.Bringoilbackto350degreesandrepeatwithremainingtomatoslices.Serve.

DRYBEFOREYOUFRY

Tokeeptomatoesfromweepingastheyfry(whichwillloosencoating),letthemsitbetweenpapertowelsfor20minutesandthenpressdry.

ALLABOUTCORNMEAL

Cornmeal,orgroundprocessedcornkernels,isavailableinallmannerofsizesforuseindifferentapplications.Inmostcases,werecommendchoosingstone-groundovercommerciallyproducedcornmealontwocounts:Firstofall,stone-groundcornmealhasamorerustictexturebecauseofthestone’sroughgrindingsurface(manycompaniesusesmoothsteelrollersthatproduceveryfine,uniformcornmeal).Andsecond,stone-groundcornmealhasafullerflavorbecauseitcontainsboththehullandoil-richgermofthecornkernel,whichcommercialproducersextractforbetterstorage.

CARAMELTOMATOES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

TomakethisProhibition-erasidedishawinnerintoday’skitchens,wemodernizedsomekeysteps.Thoughpeelingtomatoesmayseematedioustask,threesimplestepswereenoughtoavoidthealternative—paperyskins.Workingwithfirmtomatoes,scoringanXinthebottom,submergingtheminboilingwaterfor30to60seconds,andcoolinginicewaterbeforepeelingwithaparingknifemadetheprocessabreeze.Insteadofbakingthetomatoesatthebeginningandendoftherecipe,westartedwithourskilletintheovenbeforemovingittothestovetop.Onecupofbrownsugarperfectlybalancedthetomatoes’acidity.Bakingthepeeledandcoredtomatoeswithbutter,brownsugar,andtheirnaturaljuiceproducedaconcentratedsavory-sweetsyrupandtenderbrownedtomatoes,whichpair

concentratedsavory-sweetsyrupandtenderbrownedtomatoes,whichpairperfectlywithroastchickenorsteak.

8largetomatoes,peeledandcored

1 cuppackedlightbrownsugar

1 tablespoonsalt

1 teaspoonpepper

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto¼-inchpieces

CARAMELTOMATOES

SERVES8

Peelingtomatoesmayseemfussy,butotherwiseyou’llbeeatingbitsofskin.Firmtomatoesareeasiertopeel.Usecautionwhenhandlingtheskilletinstep3,asthehandlewillbeveryhot.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Arrangetomatoesinlargeovensafeskillet,coredsideup.Sprinklewithsugar,salt,andpepper.Dotwithbutter.

2.Bakeuntiltomatoesaretenderandlightlybrowned,about1hour,bastingwithjuiceevery15minutes.

3.Transferskillettostovetop(skillethandlewillbehot).Simmerovermedium-lowheat,bastingevery5minutes,untilsauceisthickandsyrupy,25to30minutes.Serve.

FITFORAPRESIDENT

Carameltomatoes?Sugarandtomatoesmayseemanoddcoupletoday,butthereisaprecedent,an1886bakedtomatorecipefromTheWomanSuffrageCookBook.Itpromised“arich,lusciousjelly”andcautionedthecook“nottobesparingofsugar.”CarameltomatoeswerealsoapparentlyafavoriteoffirstladyLouHenry

Hoover’s,astheyarefeaturedinTheFirstLadiesCookBook.Maryland’sownMaryRattley,theHoovers’cook,iscreditedwithinventingthesesweettreats,whichtheHooversbroughtwiththemtotheWhiteHouse.InHoover’sday,whichcoincidedwithProhibition,“everythingsweeterwasbetter,”accordingtoculinaryhistorianLynneOlver(swappingoneviceforanother,apparently!).

PEELINGTOMATOES

1.Removecoreoftomatousingparingknife.

2.ScoreXateachtomato’sbaseusingparingknife.

3.Usingslottedspoon,lowertomatoesintolargepotofboilingwaterandboilfor30to60seconds.Usingslottedspoon,transfertomatoestopreparedicebathtocoolfor1minute.

4.StartingatX,useparingknifetoremoveloosenedpeelinstrips.

CAROLINAREDSLAW

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Fromitspalepinkcolortoitsdistinctspicyflavor,Carolinaredslawisworldsawayfromcool,creamycoleslaw.Tore-createthisSouthernbarbecueslawathome,westartedbymicrowavingvinegarandredpepperflakes.Thisblastofheatquicklymarriedtheirflavorsbeforewewhiskedinketchupandsalt,azesty(andcolor-boosting)combinationreminiscentofLexingtonbarbecuesauce.Turningtothecabbage,weeasilyshreddedaheadofgreencabbageinthefoodprocessor.Tossingthecabbagewithsugarandsalthelpeddrawoutexcessmoisture,andaminuteortwointhemicrowavereleasedevenmorewater.(Wefoundthatslawsmadewithsaltedcabbagealsokeeplonger.)Wedrainedandpressedthecabbagebeforetossingitwithourspicydressing.After30minutesinthe

beforetossingitwithourspicydressing.After30minutesintherefrigerator,thisbright,tangyredslawwasreadytokickblandcoleslawtothecurb.

cupcidervinegar

cupketchup

1headgreencabbage(2pounds),coredandcutinto2-inch-thickwedges

cupsugar

CAROLINAREDSLAW

SERVES8TO10

Ifanylargepiecesofcabbageslipbytheshreddingbladeofthefoodprocessor,chopthembyhand.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1.Microwavevinegarandpepperflakesuntilmixtureisbubblingaroundedges,1to1½minutes.Whiskketchupand1teaspoonsaltintovinegarmixtureuntilcombined.

2.Infoodprocessorfittedwithshreddingdisk,processcabbageuntilshredded.Tosscabbage,sugar,and1teaspoonsalttogetherinlargebowl.Microwave,covered,untilcabbageisjustbeginningtowilt,1½to2minutes,stirringhalfwaythroughmicrowaving.Transfercabbagemixturetocolandersetoverbowl.Letcoolcompletely,about15minutes,stirringoccasionally.

3.Presscabbagemixturetoreleaseexcessmoisture;discardliquid(itshouldmeasureabout⅓cup).Tosscabbagemixtureandketchupmixturetogetherinlargebowluntilcombined.Coverandrefrigeratefor30minutesorupto2days.Serve.

FASTERSHREDDINGANDDRAINING

Topreventsoggyslaw,youcouldchopaheadofcabbagebyhand,saltit,andletitdrainforanhourbeforerinsingandpressingitdry,oryoucouldusethisquickermethod:

1.Pushcabbagewedgesthroughfeedtubeoffoodprocessorfittedwithshreddingdisk.

2.Together,heat(frommicrowave),salt,andsugarquicklydrawmoisturefromshreddedcabbage.

EATINGLOCAL LEXINGTON,NC

Thepulled-porksandwichweorderedatLEXINGTONBARBECUE(knownasHoneyMonk’slocally)inLexington,NorthCarolina,camewithavinegary,red-tingedslaw,spicybutsweetandasgoodasanywe’devertasted.Ourwaitressexplainedthecabbagewasshreddedinafoodprocessoranddressedwiththerestaurant’svinegar-basedbarbecuesauceandafewsecretingredients.Thatwasallwecouldgetoutofher.BackinBoston,wephonedtherestaurant.“Hi.I’dliketoaskyouaboutyourcoleslaw.”Therewasalongpause.“Wedon’thavecoleslaw.Wehavebarbecueslaw.”Notsurprisingly,theyweren’ttoointerestedindivulgingtheirhouse

secretstoaNorthernerwhodidn’tevenknowthedish’spropername.

LEXINGTONBARBECUE100SmokehouseLn.Lexington,NC

LOWCOUNTRYREDRICE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Redriceisahearty,comfortingsidepopularalongthecoastaltownsofSouthCarolinaandGeorgia.WewantedtobringalighterversionofthisLowcountryclassichome,butwithoutsacrificingitsboldflavors.Theredcolorcomesfromtomato,sowedecidedtoletthiskeyingredientshine.Westartedbysofteningonion,greenbellpepper,andceleryinasaucepan,nextaddingthericeandtoastingitforafewminutestoaddflavorandensuredistinct,tendergrains.Foraconcentrateddoseoftomatotaste,weturnedtotomatopaste,sautéingjust1tablespoonwiththecookedvegetablesandplentyofgarlic.Tofinishthericeandreinforcethetomatoflavors,weaddedjuicydicedtomatoesandchickenbroth.Atouchofcayenneaddedwelcomeheat,andahandfulofchoppedparsleyfreshenedourfluffy,spicy

welcomeheat,andahandfulofchoppedparsleyfreshenedourfluffy,spicyrice.

1onion,choppedfine

1greenorredbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andminced

1celeryrib,minced

2 cupschickenbroth

1(14.5-ounce)candicedtomatoes,drained

LOWCOUNTRYREDRICE

SERVES4TO6

Togivethericeaslightlysweeterflavor,usearedbellpepperinsteadofgreen.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

teaspoonssalt

1.Heatoilinlargesaucepanovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Cookonion,bellpepper,andceleryuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addriceandcook,stirringfrequently,untiledgesbegintoturntranslucent,about2minutes.Stiringarlicandtomatopasteandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.

2.Stirinbroth,tomatoes,salt,andcayenneandbringtoboil.Cover,reduceheattolow,andcookuntilliquidisabsorbedandriceistender,about20minutes.Removefromheatandletstand,covered,for10minutes.Fluffricewithfork,stirinparsley,andserve.

THESKINNYONLONG-GRAINRICE

Asidefromitslonger,slimmergrains,whatdistinguisheslong-grainwhitericefrommedium-orshort-grainwhiterice(thekindsusedinrisottoandsushi,respectively)isthataftercookingthegrainsremainsfluffyandseparate.Long-grainwhitericecontainslessofastarchcalledamylopectin,whichiswhatmakesricesticktogether.Whitericeisneutralinflavor,providingabackdropforotherfoods.

Nonetheless,higher-qualitywhiterice—likegoodwhitepasta,orarealFrenchbaguette—offersapleasinglychewy“aldente”textureandaslightlybutterynaturalflavorofitsown.Thebutterynotesarecausedbyanaturallyoccurringflavorcompound,2-acetyl-1-pyrroline,andhigherlevelslendanalmostpopcornliketaste.Whilemostofthissubtlevariationcomesfromthevarietalofricethatwasplanted,processingalsoaffectsflavor.Allricestartsoutbrown;tobecomewhite,itismilled,aprocessthatremovesthehusk,bran,andgerm,whichcontainflavorcompoundsaswellasnutrients.Thelongerthericeismilled,thewhiteritbecomes—andthemoreflavorisremoved.(Manybrandsofricearethenenrichedtoreplacelostnutrients.)

DIRTYRICE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

FrugalCajuncookstraditionallyserveup“dirty”riceasawayofusingupleftoverchickengiblets—thegizzard,heart,kidneys,andliver.Toreplicatethemeaty,richflavorsofthisthriftyrecipewhileskippingmostoftheinnards,wekeptreadilyavailablechickenliversfortheirdistincttasteandreplacedtherestwithgroundpork.Tospiceupourrice,weturnedtoonion,sweetredbellpepper,thyme,andabitofcayennepepper.Cookingthemeatandvegetablesseparatelyfromtherice,andcombiningeverythingoncethericewascookedthrough,ensuredthatthericecookedevenlyanddidn’ttastemuddy.Choppedscallionsgaveacleanfinishtoourperfectlydirtyrice.

8 ouncesgroundpork

1onion,choppedfine

1redbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andchoppedfine

1celeryrib,minced

4ounceschickenlivers,rinsed,trimmed,andchoppedfine

1 teaspoonsalt

DIRTYRICE

SERVES4TO6

Thisdirtyricehasamildheat;foraspicierdish,addmorecayenneorpasshotsauceatthetable.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

teaspoondriedthyme

cupschickenbroth

1½ cupslong-grainwhiterice,rinsed

2 bayleaves

1.HeatoilinDutchovenovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addporkandcook,breakingupmeatwithwoodenspoon,untilbrowned,about5minutes.Stirinonion,bellpepper,andceleryandcookuntilsoftened,about10minutes.Addchickenlivers,garlic,salt,thyme,andcayenneandcookuntilliversarebrowned,3to5minutes.Transfermeatmixturetofine-meshstrainersetoverbowlandcoverwithaluminumfoil.

2.Increaseheattohighandaddbroth,rice,andbayleavestonow-emptypot,scrapingupanybrownedbits.Bringtoboil,reduceheattolow,cover,andcookuntilriceistender,15to17minutes.Offheat,discardbayleavesandfluffricewithfork.Gentlystirindrainedmeatmixture,discardinganyaccumulatedjuices.Sprinklescallionsoverriceandserve.

RINSINGRICE

Fordirtyricewithgrainsthatwon’tclumptogether,it’simportanttorinsethericebeforecooking.Thiswashesawayanyexcessstarchandpreventsthefinaldishfromturningoutstickyorgummy.(Ifyouareusingenrichedwhiterice,notethatthisstepwillrinseawaysomeoftheaddedvitamins.)

Simplyplacethericeinafine-meshstrainerandrinseundercoolwateruntilthewaterrunsclear,occasionallystirringthericearoundlightlywithyourhand.Setthestrainerofrinsedriceoverabowltodrainuntilneeded.

REDBEANSANDRICE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

InmanyCreolekitchens,redbeansandricewas(andis)aMondaynightdish.ThehambonesavedfromSundaydinnerwouldsimmeronthebackburner,itsmarrowflavoringtheredbeansandthickeningthebroth.Today,however,mosthomecooksdon’thaveleftoverhambonesreadilyavailable,sowesetouttoserveanequallyflavorful,spicydishwithingredientswecouldpickupatthesupermarket.Forporky,saltyflavor,wecookedfourstripsofbaconandaddedonion,bellpepper,andcelerytotherenderedfat,thenthegarlicandspices.Toensurethatourbeansturnedouttenderandtastedmeatywithoutahambone,wesimmeredtheminbothwaterandchickenbrothbeforeaddingsmoky,spicyandouillesausage.Halfanhourwasjustenoughtimeforthesausagetoimpartgreatflavortothebeans

wasjustenoughtimeforthesausagetoimpartgreatflavortothebeanswithoutbecomingtootough.WewouldbehappytoservethisLouisianaclassic,spoonedoverhotwhiterice,anynightoftheweek.

1smallonion,choppedfine

1celeryrib,minced

7 cupschickenbroth

7 cupswater

REDBEANSANDRICE

SERVES8TO10

Andouillesausageistraditionalinthisrecipe.Ifyoucan’tfindandouilleatyourlocalmarket,usekielbasa.Inorderforthestarchfromthebeanstothickenthecookingliquid,it’simportanttomaintainavigoroussimmerinstep1.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 pound(2½cups)driedredkidneybeans,pickedoverandrinsed

4 bayleaves

1 teaspoonmincedfreshoregano

Saltandpepper

8ouncesandouillesausage,halvedlengthwiseandsliced¼inchthick

cupswater

teaspoonssalt

Hotsauce

1.FORTHEBEANS:CookbaconinDutchovenovermediumheatuntilcrisp,about7minutes.Addonion,bellpepper,andceleryandcook,stirringfrequently,untilsoftened,about8minutes.Stiringarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addbroth,water,beans,bayleaves,oregano,thyme,1teaspoonpepper,½teaspoonsalt,andcayenneandbringtoboiloverhighheat.Reduceheatandsimmervigorously,stirringoccasionally,untilbeansaresoftandliquidthickens,2to2½hours.

2.Stirinsausageandcookuntilliquidisthickandcreamy,about30minutes.

3.FORTHERICE:Heatoilinlargesaucepanovermediumheat.Addrice;cook,stirringconstantly,for1to3minutes,untilriceislightlytoasted.Addwaterandsalt;bringtoboil,swirlingpantoblendingredients.

4.Reduceheattolow,placedishtowelfoldedinhalfoverpan,andcoverpan.Cookuntilliquidisabsorbed,about15minutes.

5.Turnoffheatandletricestandonburner,covered,tofinishcooking,about15minuteslonger.

6.Fluffricewithfork.Seasonbeanswithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serveoverrice,passinghotsauceseparately.

KIDNEYBEANCONCERNS

Therearerumorsthatdriedredkidneybeansmustbeboiled—notjustsimmered—tomakethemsafetoeat.Isthistrue?Andifso,forhowlongshouldtheybeboiled?Manydriedbeanscontainproteinscalledlectinsthat,ifingestedrawor

partiallycooked,canproducesymptomssimilartothoseoffoodpoisoning.Redkidneybeansarehigherinlectinsthanotherbeans,butthere’snoneedtofret:A1985researchpaperpublishedintheJournalofFoodSciencereportedthatlectinsarecompletelydestroyedwhenbeansareboiledfor10minutes.Tokeepthemfromturningmushy,wesuggestboilingthebeansatthebeginningofcooking(whentheyareattheirsturdiest).Afterthat,youcanturndowntheheatandsimmerthemuntiltender.

HOPPIN’JOHN

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSIntheLowcountryofSouthCarolinaandGeorgia,eatinghoppin’John—ahumbleslow-cookeddishofrice,black-eyedpeas,andhamhocks—atthestartofanewyearissaidtobringgoodluck.Hopingtoturnoutaquickerversionofthishearty(andsupposedlylucky)dish,westartedbyswappinghamhocksformorereadilyavailable(andstillveryflavorful)baconandbonelessham.Afterbrowningthebacon,weusedtherenderedfattobrownslicesofbonelessham.Sincefreshblack-eyedpeasarenotreadilyavailableoutsidetheSouth,weturnedtofrozenones,which,unlikecannedvarieties,heldtheirshapeandcookedmuchfasterthandriedbeans.Wecookedonion,celery,garlic,andthymebeforeaddingthepeas,broth,andbrownedham.Rinsingthericebeforeaddingittothepotridthegrainsofanyexcess

ham.Rinsingthericebeforeaddingittothepotridthegrainsofanyexcessstarch,andcoveringthehoppin’Johnwithaluminumfoilcontainedtheescapingsteam—twostepsthatensuredtender,toothsomerice.Westirredinthereservedbaconandhamandservedupaone-potmealthat,luckyforus,makesfordeliciouseating.

1(1-to1½-pound)bonelessham,cutinto¾-inch-thickplanks

1onion,choppedfine

2celeryribs,minced

teaspoondriedthyme

4 cupschickenbroth

2poundsfrozenblack-eyedpeas

HOPPIN’JOHN

SERVES8

Smallbonelesshamsareavailableinthemeatcaseatmostsupermarkets.Ifyoucan’tfindone,youcansubstituteanequalweightofhamsteak.Coveringthesurfaceofthedishwithaluminumfoilafteraddingthericehelpsensurethatthericecooksevenly.Servewithhotsauce,ifdesired.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 bayleaves

1.CookbaconinDutchovenovermediumheatuntilcrisp,5to7minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowel–linedplate.Pouroffallbut1tablespoonfatfrompotandbrownham,about3minutesperside.Transferhamtoplatewithbacon.

2.Addonionandcelerytopotandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stiringarlicandthymeandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addbroth,peas,bayleaves,andhamandbringtoboil.Reduceheattolowandsimmer,covered,untilpeasarejusttender,about20minutes.Transferhamtocuttingboardandcutinto½-inchpieces.

3.Placericeinfine-meshstrainerandrinseundercoldrunningwateruntilwaterrunsclear,about1minute.Drainricewellandstirintopot.Placesquareofaluminumfoildirectlyonsurfaceofsimmeringliquid.Simmer,covered,untilliquidisabsorbedandriceistender,about20minutes,stirringandrepositioningfoiltwiceduringcooking.Removefromheatandletstand,covered,for10minutes.Discardbayleaves.Fluffricewithfork.Stirinscallions,bacon,andham.Serve.

HURRYINGHOPPIN’JOHN

Hoppin’Johncantakeaslongas4hourstomake.Wedrasticallyreducethecookingtimebyusingbonelesshaminplaceofasmokedhamhockandfrozenpeasinsteadofdried.

BONELESSHAM:Brownedandsimmeredbonelesshamaddssmokydepthandmeatinesstoourhoppin’Johninaquarterofthetime.

FROZENBLACK-EYEDPEAS:Frozenblack-eyedpeascanbeusedstraightfromthefreezerandsimmeredtotheperfectcreamyconsistencyinlessthan1hour.

HAMSTEAKWITHRED-EYEGRAVY

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSAdishofdeliciouslysaltyfriedhamsteaksinabracing,coffee-basedgravyisoftenservedforbreakfastinSouthernkitchens.Upnorth,bone-inhamsteakswereourmostreadilyavailableoptionformakingthisdish.Compensatingforthisleanmeat,westartedwithfattybaconanduseditsflavorfulrenderedfattofrythehamtoabeautifulgoldenbrown.Pattingthehamdrybeforefryingprovedthekeytomaximumbrowning.Foraneye-openinggravy,webrownedalittleonionandstirredinbody-buildingflour.Usingchickenbrothasourbaseconcentratedthegravy’smeatyflavors,andmaplesyrup(anadmittedlyNortherningredient)addedmellowsweetnesstobalancethecoffee’sacidity.Afterthickeningthegravyatagentlesimmer,weremovedtheskilletfromtheheatandstirredinthekeyeye-opening

weremovedtheskilletfromtheheatandstirredinthekeyeye-openingingredient—espressopowder—aswellasbutterforasilky,richfinaltouch.Thoughitistraditionallyabreakfastdish,we’dbemorethanhappytoservethiscrisp,brownedhaminitsred-eyegravythreetimesaday.

HAMSTEAK

1(1¼-pound)bone-inhamsteak

Pepper

2 slicesbacon

RED-EYEGRAVY

2 tablespoonsfinelychoppedonion

1teaspoonall-purposeflour

HAMSTEAKWITHRED-EYEGRAVY

SERVES4

Patthehamsteakdrybeforecookingsoitwillbrownwell.Beforepouringthegravyoverthehaminstep3,discardanyaccumulatedjuicesontheplatter,astheywillmakethesaucetoosalty.AsimplesideofShort-OrderHomeFriespairswellwiththesaltyham.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

cupschickenbroth

1 tablespoonmaplesyrup

2 teaspoonsinstantespressopowder

1.FORTHEHAMSTEAK:Pathamdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithpepper.Cookbaconin12-inchskilletovermediumheatuntilcrisp,about5minutes.Removebaconfromskillet(leavingfatbehind)andreserveforanotheruse.Addhamtoskilletwithbaconfatandcookuntilwellbrownedonfirstside,about5minutes.Fliphamandcookonsecondsideuntillightlybrowned,about2minutes.Transferhamtoplatterandtentlooselywithaluminumfoil.

2.FORTHERED-EYEGRAVY:Addoniontonow-emptyskilletandcookuntiljustbeginningtobrown,about1minute.Stirinflourandcookfor15seconds.Whiskinbrothandmaplesyrup,scrapingupanybrownedbits.Bringtosimmerandcookuntilmixtureisreducedto¾cupandslightlythickened,5to7minutes.

3.Offheat,whiskinbutterandespressopowder.Seasonwithpeppertotaste.Discardanyjuicesonhamplatter.Carvehamsteakinto4equalportions.Pourred-eyegravyoverham.Serve.

1½ poundsYukonGoldpotatoes(3medium),unpeeled,cutinto¾-inchpieces

1onion,choppedfine

teaspoongarlicsalt

Saltandpepper

SHORT-ORDERHOMEFRIES

SERVES4

AlthoughwepreferthesweetnessofYukonGoldpotatoes,othermedium-starchorwaxypotatoes,suchasall-purposeorred-skinnedpotatoes,canbesubstituted.Ifyouwanttospicethingsup,addapinchofcayennepepper.

1.Arrangepotatoesinlargemicrowave-safebowl,topwith1tablespoonbutter,andcovertightlywithplasticwrap.Microwaveonhighuntiledgesofpotatoesbegintosoften,5to7minutes,shakingbowl(withoutremovingplastic)toredistributepotatoeshalfwaythroughcooking.

2.Meanwhile,melt1tablespoonbutterin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheat.Addonionandcookuntilsoftenedandgoldenbrown,about8minutes.Transfertosmallbowl.

3.Meltremaining2tablespoonsbutterinnow-emptyskilletovermediumheat.Addpotatoesandpackdownwithspatula.Cook,withoutmoving,untilundersideofpotatoesisbrown,5to7minutes.Turnpotatoes,packdownagain,andcontinuetocookuntilwellbrownedandcrisp,5to7minutes.Reduceheattomedium-lowandcontinuecooking,stirringpotatoeseveryfewminutes,untilcrusty,9to12minutes.Stirinonion,garlicsalt,½teaspoonsalt,andpeppertotaste.Serve.

BRINGINGMAPLESYRUPSOUTH

Puremaplesyrupandpancakesyruparenotthesame.Realmaplesyrupisnothingbutsapfromthesugarmapletreethathasbeenboileddown(fromabout40gallonsto1).Intheprocess,thesapcaramelizesanddevelopsitscharacteristicflavor.Wepreferstronger,lessexpensiveGradeADarkAmbertoGradeALightAmber;reservethestrongestsyrup,GradeB,forcooking.

HUSHPUPPIES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Hushpuppies,bite-sizefriedcornmealdumplings,areahabit-formingtreatservedthroughouttheSouthwithfriedfishandbarbecue.Wewantedourstoboastacrispcrust,tendercenter,andstrongcorntastewithoutanycornmealgritorextraeffort.Acombinationof¾cupofcornmealand½cupofflourstrucktheperfectbalancebetweenbeingtoosoftandtoodensewithgreatcornflavor.Tokickupthehushpuppies’flavor,westirredincayenneandfinelychoppedonion.Buttermilkcontributedanicetang,andbakingsoda’sreactionwithitsacidityprovidedalighttextureandagolden-browncrust.Withallofourbatter’scomponentsinplace,weletthewhiskedmixturesittothickenbeforedroppingheapingtablespoonsintohotoil.Withinminutes,ourhushpuppiesfriedintogoldenminifritterswe

oil.Withinminutes,ourhushpuppiesfriedintogoldenminifritterswecouldn’twaittodevour.

¾ cup(3¾ounces)fine-groundcornmeal½ cup(2½ounces)all-purposeflour1½

teaspoonbakingsoda

teaspoonsalt

cupbuttermilk

2 largeeggs

cupfinelychoppedonion

HUSHPUPPIES

MAKESABOUT25

Avoidcoarselygroundcornmealforthisrecipe,asitwillmakethehushpuppiesgritty.Ifyoudon’thavebuttermilkonhand,makeclabberedmilkbywhisking2¼teaspoonsoflemonjuiceinto¾cupofmilkandlettingitstandatroomtemperatureuntilslightlythickened,about10minutes.UseaDutchoventhatholds6quartsormoreforthisrecipe.

1.Combinecornmeal,flour,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,salt,andcayenneinlargebowl.Whiskinbuttermilk,eggs,andonionuntilcombined.Letbattersitatroomtemperaturefor10minutesorupto1hour.

2.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.HeatoilinlargeDutchovenovermedium-highheatto350degrees.Workingwithhalfofbatteratatime,dropheapingtablespoonsintooilandfryuntildeepgoldenbrown,2to3minutes,turninghushpuppieshalfwaythroughfrying.Transfertopreparedwirerack.Returnoilto350degreesandrepeatwithremainingbatter.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Hushpuppiescanberefrigeratedforupto2days.Reheatin450-degreeovenforabout10minutesbeforeserving.

CORNANDREDPEPPERHUSHPUPPIES

PrepareHushpuppies,adding1cupcornkernels(freshorfrozen,thawed),½redbellpepper,seededandchoppedfine,and2thinlyslicedscallionstobatterinstep1.

CRABANDCHIVEHUSHPUPPIES

PrepareHushpuppies,adding½poundcrabmeat(pickedoverforshells),2tablespoonsDijonmustard,and2tablespoonsmincedfreshchivestobatterinstep1.

HAMANDCHEDDARHUSHPUPPIES

PrepareHushpuppies,adding4ouncesfinelychoppeddeliham,1cupshreddedsharpcheddarcheese,2tablespoonsDijonmustard,and2thinlyslicedscallionstobatterinstep1.

BISCUITSANDSAUSAGEGRAVY

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ButtermilkbiscuitstoppedwithsausagegravyareaquintessentiallySouthernbreakfast.Theseindulgentbiscuitsshouldbebigandfluffy,sturdyenoughtostandtallwhilestillabsorbingthespicygravy.Wemadeaneasybatter,usinga2-to-1ratioofbuttertoshorteningforrichflavorandtendertexture.Extrabakingpowderandbakingsodacreatedmaximumlift,andbriefkneadingyieldedbiscuitswithevenbetterstructure.Westampedout3-inchrounds,applyingequalpressureonourcutterforbiscuitsthatrosetolofty(anduniform)heights.Forthegravy,wecombinedflourandpepperwithgroundfennelandsage,addedtoreinforcethesausage’sflavor.Wecookedbulkporksausagethroughbeforestirringintheseasonedflour,whichcombinedwiththefattoformathickeningroux.Afteraddingwhole

whichcombinedwiththefattoformathickeningroux.Afteraddingwholemilk,wesimmeredthegravyuntilitwaspipinghotandthickened.Servedtogether,ourtender,butterybiscuitsandcreamy,meatygravymadeforahearty,flavor-packedstarttotheday.

BISCUITS

1 tablespoonsugar

teaspoonbakingsoda

1 teaspoonsalt

8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpiecesandchilled

BISCUITSANDSAUSAGEGRAVY

SERVES8

Ifyoudon’thavebuttermilkonhand,whisk1tablespoonoflemonjuiceinto1¼cupsofmilkandletitstanduntilslightlythickened,about10minutes.

cupsbuttermilk

SAUSAGEGRAVY

1 teaspoongroundfennel

1 teaspoongroundsage

Saltandpepper

poundsbulkporksausage

3 cupswholemilk

1.FORTHEBISCUITS:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento450degrees.Linebakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Pulseflour,sugar,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,salt,butter,andshorteninginfoodprocessoruntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal,about15pulses.Transfertolargebowl.Stirinbuttermilkuntilcombined.

2.Onlightlyflouredcounter,kneaddoughuntilsmooth,8to10times.Patdoughinto9-inchcircle,about¾inchthick.Using3-inchbiscuitcutterdippedinflour,cutoutroundsofdoughandarrangeonpreparedbakingsheet.Gatherremainingdough,patinto¾-inch-thickcircle,andcutoutremainingbiscuits.(Youshouldhave8biscuitsintotal.)3.Bakeuntilbiscuitsbegintorise,about5minutes,thenrotatepanandreduceoventemperatureto400degrees.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,12to15minutes,thentransfertowirerackandletcool.(Biscuitscanbestoredinzipper-lockbagforupto2days.)4.FORTHESAUSAGEGRAVY:Combineflour,fennel,sage,and1½teaspoonspepperinsmallbowl.Cooksausagein12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheat,breakingupmeatwithwoodenspoon,untilnolongerpink,about8minutes.Sprinkleflourmixtureoversausageandcook,stirringconstantly,untilflourhasbeenabsorbed,about1minute.Slowlystirinmilkandsimmeruntilgravyhasthickened,about5minutes.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Serveoversplitbiscuits.

STAMPBUTDON’TTWIST

Twistingthecutterwhenstampingoutbiscuitspinchesthedough,resultinginanunevenrise.Usingawell-flouredcutterandpressingdownwithequalpressureonallsidesofthecutter(andnottwisting)ensuresthatthebiscuitswillriseevenly.

SWEETPOTATOBISCUITS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Itwasonlyamatteroftimebeforesweetpotato–lovingSoutherncookscombinedthefluffytextureandpleasanttangofbiscuitswiththeearthysweetnessofthispopulartuber.Toaddthispotato’snaturalsweetnesswithoutweighingdownthedough,wemicrowavedthesweetpotatoes,whicheliminatedtheirmoisturewhileconcentratingtheflavor.Aftermashingtheflesh,westirredincidervinegartomimicbuttermilk’stangandtocreategreaterliftoncecombinedwiththedough’sbakingpowderandbakingsoda.Wemaximizedthebiscuits’tendertexturewithlow-proteincakeflourandoptedforthedeep,molasses-likesweetnessofbrownsugartocomplementthesweetpotatoes.Thedoughtookonaprettydeeporangecolor,and,oncebaked,thebiscuitsemergedtenderandsubtlysweet,perfect

color,and,oncebaked,thebiscuitsemergedtenderandsubtlysweet,perfectforasmearofbutterorjam,orslicedandstuffedwithhamandmustard.

2½ poundssweetpotatoes(3to4medium)

3¼ cups(13ounces)cakeflour¼ cuppacked(1¾ounces)darkbrownsugar

teaspoonbakingsoda

teaspoonssalt

8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpiecesandchilled,plus2tablespoonsmelted

SWEETPOTATOBISCUITS

MAKES16

Youcansubstituteacombinationof3cupsofall-purposeflourand6tablespoonsofcornstarchforthecakeflour.Ifyouhalvetherecipe,instep1reducethemicrowavetimeto10to15minutes.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Prickpotatoesalloverwithfork.Microwaveonlargeplateuntilpotatoesareverysoftandsurfaceiswet,15to20minutes,flippingevery5minutes.Immediatelyslicepotatoesinhalftoreleasesteam.Whencoolenoughtohandle,scoopfleshintobowlandmashuntilsmooth.(Youshouldhave2cups.Reserveanyextraforanotherpurpose.)Stirinvinegarandrefrigerateuntilcool,about15minutes.

2.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento425degrees.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Pulseflour,sugar,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,salt,chilledbutter,andshorteninginfoodprocessoruntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal,about15pulses.Transfertobowlwithcooledpotatoesandfoldwithrubberspatulauntilincorporated.

3.Turnoutdoughontoflouredcounterandkneaduntilsmooth,8to10times.Patdoughinto9-inchcircle,about1inchthick.Using2¼-inchbiscuitcutterdippedinflour,cutoutbiscuitsandarrangeonpreparedbakingsheet.Patremainingdoughinto1-inch-thickcircleandcutoutremainingbiscuits.(Youshouldhave16biscuitsintotal.)4.Brushtopsofbiscuitswithmeltedbutterandbakeuntilgoldenbrown,18to22minutes.Letcoolfor15minutes.Serve.(Biscuitscanbestoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)

PICKINGOUTSWEETPOTATOES

Choosefirmsweetpotatoeswithskinsthataretaut,notwrinkled.Manyvarietiesareavailable,andtheycanvaryquiteabitincolor,texture,andflavor.Beauregard(usuallysoldasaconventionalsweetpotato)andJewelaresweetandmoistandhavethefamiliarsweetpotatoflavor.RedGarnetismoresavoryandhasaloosertexture.Nontraditionalvarietiesthatarelighterincolor,liketheJapaneseWhite,WhiteSweet,Batata,andpurplepotatoes,tendtobestarchieranddrier.Storesweetpotatoesinadark,well-ventilatedspot(donotstoretheminaplasticbag);theywillkeepforaboutoneweek.

CREAMCHEESEBISCUITS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ParticularlypopularinCharleston,SouthCarolina,creamcheesebiscuitsareknownfortheirethereallyfluffy(notflaky)textureanddistinctlymoistcrumb.Usingfrozencreamcheeseandbutterallowedbothtothawduringbaking,creatingairypocketswhentheymeltedandreleasedsteam.Foraddedlightness,weusedablendofcakeflourandall-purposeflour,whichproducedatendercrumbandsomestructure.Becauseofcreamcheese’shighwatercontent,excessrollingwouldresultintoughbiscuits,soweskippedthebiscuitcutter,insteadrollingthedoughintoarectangleandcuttingitinto12squares.Ourcreamcheesebiscuitssurpassedallexpectations,turningoutsotenderandsoftwehardlynoticedtheiruntraditionalsquareshape.

untraditionalsquareshape.

1½ cups(7½ounces)all-purposeflour1½ cups(6ounces)cakeflour

1 tablespoonsugar

1 teaspoonsalt

teaspoonbakingsoda

4ouncescreamcheese,cutinto½-inchpiecesandfrozenfor30minutes

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpiecesandfrozenfor30minutes

1 cupplus1tablespoonbuttermilk

CREAMCHEESEBISCUITS

MAKES12

Allbiscuitstastegreatwithbutter,butthesetasteevenbetterwithsweetChocolateGravytocomplementtheirtang.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento450degrees.Linebakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Pulseall-purposeflour,cakeflour,sugar,bakingpowder,salt,bakingsoda,creamcheese,andbutterinfoodprocessoruntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal,about15pulses.Transferflourmixturetolargebowl.Stirinbuttermilkuntilcombined(doughmayappearslightlydry).

2.Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounterandkneadbrieflyuntildoughcomestogether.Rolldoughinto8by6-inchrectangle,about¾inchthick.Cutintotwelve2-inchsquaresandtransfertopreparedbakingsheet.Bakeuntillightbrown,12to15minutes.Transfertowirerackandletcoolfor5minutes.Servewarm.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Unbakedcutbiscuitscanberefrigeratedonbakingsheet,coveredwithplasticwrap,forupto1day.Tofinish,heatovento450degreesandbakeasdirected.

1cup(7ounces)sugar

½ cup(2½ounces)all-purposeflour

6tablespoons(1⅛ounces)Dutch-processedcocoa

teaspoonsalt

4 cupswholemilk

CHOCOLATEGRAVY

MAKESABOUT4CUPS

Thischocolatesauce,apopulartoppingforbiscuitsintheSouth,iscalled“gravy”becauseitusesflourasathickener.

Whisksugar,flour,cocoa,andsalttogetherinlargesaucepan.Slowlywhiskinmilkuntilsmooth.Bringtosimmerovermediumheat,stirringconstantly,andsimmeruntilthickened,2to3minutes.Removefromheatandwhiskinvanilla.Serveoverbiscuits.

SQUAREISTHENEWROUND

Insteadofrollingthedough,cuttingroundbiscuits,thenrerollingthescrapstocutmore,werollthedoughintoarectangleandcut12squarebiscuits.

CRACKLIN’CORNBREAD

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTraditionally,whatmakesthissavorySoutherncornbread“crackle”arecrispybitsofrenderedporkskinstirredintothebatter.Tocapturethissatisfyingsaltyelement,wehadtwooptions:thetime-consumingtaskofrenderingporkskinourselves,ordowngradingthecornbread’stastewithstore-boughtporkrind.Hopingtoforgeaheadwithoutthecracklings,welookedtochoppedbacon.Weinfusedourfavoriteskilletcornbreadbatterwithporkflavorbystirringincrispbaconbitsandusingtherenderedbaconfatinsteadofbutter.Toensurethatourcornbreadreleasedcleanly,wedollopedthebatterintoanoiled,hotcast-ironskillet,atrickthatkepttheoilevenlydistributedunderthebatterasitbaked.Turningtheroundloafoutofthepanminutesafteritfinishedbakingkeptthebreadfromsofteningand

thepanminutesafteritfinishedbakingkeptthebreadfromsofteningandsteamingintheskillet.Withitscrisp,darkgoldencrustandflecksofchewybacon,ourfinishedcornbreadreallycrackled.

2¼ cups(11¼ounces)cornmeal

1 teaspoonbakingsoda

teaspoonsalt

2 cupsbuttermilk

cupvegetableoil

CRACKLIN’CORNBREAD

SERVES10

Forthecrunchiestcrust,bakethecornbreadinacast-ironpan.Avoidcoarselygroundcornmeal,whichwillmakethecornbreadtoogritty.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento450degrees.Cookbaconin10-inchovenproofskilletovermediumheatuntilcrisp,about8minutes.Transferbacontopapertowel–linedplate.Pourofffatfrompan,reserving¼cup.

2.Combinecornmeal,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsaltinlargebowl.Whiskinbuttermilk,3tablespoonsoil,reservedbaconfat,eggs,andcrispbacon.

3.Heatremaining1tablespoonoilinnow-emptyskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Spooncornmealmixture,½cupatatime,intoskilletandbakeuntiltopbeginstocrackandsidesaregoldenbrown,12to16minutes.Coolinpanfor5minutes,thenturnoutontowirerack.Serve.

DOTHEDOLLOP

Ifyoudumpthebatterinallatonce,thehotoilthat’sgreasingtheskilletgetspushedtotheedge.Dollo-pingthebatterguaranteesthatthecornbreadwillreleasecleanly,evenfromanunderseasonedskillet.

BAKINGPOWDERVS.BAKINGSODA

Bakingsodaandbakingpowderarebothleavenersthat,whenactivated,formcarbondioxide;thisgas,inturn,causesbattersanddoughstorise.Bakingsodaisactivatedwhenmixedwithamoist,acidicingredient,suchassourcream.Bakingpowderalreadycontainsacid(aswellasbakingsoda)soisactivatedbymoisturealone(or,inthecaseofdouble-actingbakingpowder,firstbymoistureandthenbyheat).Inourtests,cornbreadmadewithonlybakingsodaturneddeepbrown

andhadadense,heavycrumb;bakingsodaincreasesbrowningbecauseitmakesbattersmorealkaline.Cornbreadmadewithbakingpowderalonewasbrightyellowwithanopencrumb,butittastedsourandmetallic.Thecombinationofbakingpowderandsodaworkedbest,producingagolden-brownbreadwithgoodheightandanopencrumb.

BLACKBERRYJAMCAKE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Tobringthewarm,fruitysweetnessofblackberryjamcakedownfromtheAppalachianMountainsintoourownkitchen,wefocusedoncapturingitsinvitingflavors.Toastedcinnamon,allspice,andclovesgavethecakeanaromaticandgentlyspicyqualitywithoutmaskingthekeyingredient:agenerousscoopofblackberryjam,whichturnsthecakeaprettyplumcolor.Thinningthejaminthemicrowaveandaddingwatertothebattercreatedalightertexture.Wemadeadecadentbutnotoverlysweetcaramelfrosting,strainingitafterwhippingittogethertoeliminatelumps.Whiskingoverheatandthen,oncecooled,beatinginsoftenedbuttertransformedthepastymixtureintoasilken,custardlikefrosting.Aftercoatingthefirstlayerinfrosting,wespreadonalayerofjamtoreinforcetheblackberryflavor

frosting,wespreadonalayerofjamtoreinforcetheblackberryflavorbeforetoppingitwiththesecondcakeround.Thoughmanyrecipeshavewalnutsinthebatter,wesavedthemforlast:Wepressedtoastedchoppednutsintothesidesofthefrostedcakeforacrunchyandgood-lookingfinish.

teaspoongroundcloves

cupseedlessblackberryjam

1cupbuttermilk,roomtemperature

3 tablespoonswater

cups(15ounces)all-purposeflour

BLACKBERRYJAMCAKE

SERVES12

Wholemilkmakestherichest,tastiestfrosting.Useastandmixer;thefrostingistoothickforahandheldmixer.Andplanahead,asthefrostingneedstimetocool.

teaspoonsalt

20tablespoons(2½sticks)unsaltedbutter,softened

1⅓ cups(9⅓ounces)granulatedsugar½ cuppacked(3½ounces)lightbrownsugar

4largeeggs,roomtemperature

FROSTINGANDJAMLAYER

1½ cupspacked(10½ounces)darkbrownsugar¼

teaspoonbakingsoda

teaspoonsalt

cupswholemilk

2 teaspoonsvanillaextract

24tablespoons(3sticks)unsaltedbutter,softened,cutinto24pieces

cupseedlessblackberryjam

1½ cups(6ounces)walnuts,toastedandchopped(optional)

1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Greaseandflourtwo9-inchroundcakepans.Heatcinnamon,allspice,andclovesinsmallskilletovermediumheatuntilfragrant,about1minute.Microwavejaminmediumbowluntilthinenoughtopour,35to45seconds,carefullystirringhalfwaythroughcooking.

2.Whiskbuttermilk,water,andvanillaintowarmjam.Combineflour,bakingpowder,toastedspices,andsaltinlargebowl.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatbutter,granulatedsugar,andbrownsugartogetheronmedium-highspeeduntillightandfluffy,about2minutes.Reducespeedtomedium-lowandaddeggs,1atatime,untilincorporated.Addflourmixturein3additions,alternatingwith2additionsofjammixture,stoppingoccasionallytoscrapedownsidesofbowl.

3.Dividebatterevenlybetweenpreparedpansandsmoothtops.Tappansoncountertoreleaseairbubbles.Bakeuntildeepgoldenbrownandtoothpickinsertedincentercomesoutclean,35to40minutes.Letcakescoolinpansfor10minutes,thenturnoutontowirerack.Letcoolcompletely,atleast1hour.

4.FORTHEFROSTINGANDJAMLAYER:Combinesugar,bakingsoda,flour,cornstarch,andsaltinmediumbowl.Slowlywhiskinmilkuntilsmooth.Pourmixturethroughfine-meshstrainerintomediumsaucepan.Cookovermediumheat,whiskingconstantly,untilmixtureboilsandisverythick,5to7minutes.Transfermilkmixturetocleanbowlandletcooltoroomtemperature,about2hours.

5.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipcooledmilkmixtureandvanillatogetheronlowspeeduntilcombined,about30seconds.Addbutter,1pieceatatime,andwhipuntilincorporated,about2minutes.Increasespeedtomedium-highandwhipuntilfrostingislightandfluffy,about5minutes.Letsitatroomtemperatureuntilstiff,about1hour.

6.Whiskjaminbowluntilsmooth.Lineedgesofcakeplatterwith4stripsofparchmentpapertokeepplatterclean.Place1cakelayeronpreparedplatter.Placeabout1½cupsfrostingincenterofcakelayerand,usinglargespatula,spreadinevenlayerrighttoedgeofcake.Placejamonfrosting

layerandusespatulatospreadoverfrosting,leaving½-inchborder,Placesecondcakelayerontop,makingsurelayersarealigned,thenfrosttopinsamemannerasfirstlayer,thistimespreadingfrostinguntilslightlyoveredge.Gathermorefrostingontipofspatulaandgentlyspreadontosideofcake.Smoothfrostingbygentlyrunningedgeofspatulaaroundcakeandlevelingridgethatformsaroundtopedge,orcreatebillowsbypressingbackofspoonintofrostingandtwirlingspoonasyouliftaway.Garnishwithwalnuts,ifusing.Carefullypulloutpiecesofparchmentfrombeneathcakeandrefrigerateuntilset,about30minutes.Serve.(Assembledcakecanberefrigeratedforupto1day.Bringtoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.)

MORAVIANSUGARCAKE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Whenitcomestocoffeecake,theMoraviansofWinston-Salem,NorthCarolina,havehaditrightforcenturies.Theircakesstandoutfortheirextra-tendercrumb,signaturesugarycraters,andcaramelizedbrownsugartopping.Thecake’smoistinteriorcomesfromamashedpotato–baseddough.Forastreamlinedapproachwiththesameresults,weusedinstantpotatoflakes.Weblendedtheflakeswithasimpleyeasteddoughandletitrisebeforepressingitintoabakingpanandlettingitriseagaininawarmoven.Forthecrunchysugartopping,wecreatedstreusel-likecrumbleswithchilledbutter,brownsugar,andcinnamon.Oncethedoughhadrisen,wepressedshallowindentationsintotheentiresurfaceandsprinkledthecrumblesoverthecake,whichmeltedintopocketsduringbaking.After

crumblesoverthecake,whichmeltedintopocketsduringbaking.Aftercooling,thetoppingandoursugarcakelooked—andtasted—asgoodasanyfromdownSouth.

¾ cupwarmmilk(110degrees)1½ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast⅓ cup(2⅓ounces)granulatedsugar¼

cupinstantpotatoflakes

teaspoonsalt

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened,plus6tablespoonscutinto½-inchpiecesandchilled

1 largeegg

1½ cupspacked(10½ounces)lightbrownsugar

1 tablespoongroundcinnamon

MORAVIANSUGARCAKE

SERVES12

Potatoflakesandpotatobudsbothworkwellhere,butavoidpotatogranules,whichcanhaveoff-flavors.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Maintaintemperaturefor10minutes,thenturnoffoven.Greasemediumbowland13by9-inchbakingdish.

2.Stirmilkandyeasttogetheruntilyeastisdissolved.Inbowlofstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,mixtogetheryeastmixture,granulatedsugar,potatoflakes,salt,softenedbutter,egg,andflouronmediumspeeduntilsmoothandshiny,about2minutes.Transferdoughtopreparedbowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andplaceinwarmoven.Letriseuntildoubledinsize,about30minutes.

3.Pressdoughintoevenlayerinprepareddish.Coverdishwithplasticandplaceinwarmoven.Letriseuntildoubledinsize,about30minutes.Meanwhile,usingfingers,combinechilledbutter,brownsugar,andcinnamonuntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal.

4.Removedishfromovenandheatovento375degrees.Withflouredfingers,makeshallowindentationsinsurfaceofdoughandsprinklewithbrownsugarmixture.Bakeuntiltoppingisbubblinganddeepbrown,18to22minutes.Letcoolfor30minutes.Serve.(Cooledcakecanbewrappedinplasticandstoredatroomtemperatureforupto2days.)TOMAKEAHEAD:Afterpressingdoughintodishandcovering,doughcanberefrigeratedforupto24hours.Whenreadytobake,letsitatroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforeproceedingwithstep4.

EATINGLOCAL WINSTON-SALEM,NC

TheMoravianshavealonghistoryasbakers,andin1808BrotherChristianWinklertookoverthebakerythatnowbearshisname.Today,WINKLERBAKERYispartoftheOldSalemMuseums&Gardens.Employeeswearperiodcostumesandbakeanarrayofcookies,cakes,andbreadsusingtraditionalMoravianrecipesandtechniques.Youwon’tfindanyelectricmixershere—everythingismixedbyhandwithlongwoodenpaddles.

WINKLERBAKERY521S.MainSt.Winston-Salem,NC

HOWTOSHAPESUGARCAKE

1.Pressdoughintoevenlayeringreased13by9-inchbakingdishandletrise.

2.Usingfingers,workchilledbutterintobrownsugarandcinnamonuntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal.

3.Usingflouredfingertips,makeshallowindentationsoversurfaceofrisendough.

4.Evenlysprinklebrownsugarmixtureoverindenteddough.

JEFFERSONDAVISPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

JeffersonDavisPie,abrownsugarchesspie,namedfortheConfederatePresidentJeffersonDavis,isknownforitscaramelycustardwithdriedfruitandnuts.Forasilky,thicktexture,weusedrichheavycreamasourcustard’sstartingplace.Acupofbrownsugarcontributedenoughsweetnesswithoutmaskingthewarm,spicyflavorsofcinnamonandallspice.Eggyolkssetmoreslowlythanwholeeggs,soweusedfivetodrawoutthepie’sbakingtime.Ratherthanstirintheraisins,dates,andnuts,wegroundtheminafoodprocessorandpressedthemintoanunbakedpieshelltoprovideaflavorfulbaseforthecustardlayerabove.Thislayeredpiebakedforaboutanhourinagentleoven,allowingthecrusttobrownandthecustardtosetgradually.Dollopedwithaspoonfulofbourbon-fortifiedwhippedcream,

gradually.Dollopedwithaspoonfulofbourbon-fortifiedwhippedcream,thispiewasworthyofanationalintroduction.

1 tablespoonsugar

teaspoonsalt

4tablespoonsvegetableshortening,cutinto¼-inchpiecesandchilled

tablespoonsicewater

FILLING

JEFFERSONDAVISPIE

SERVES8

Homemadecrusttastesthebest,butyoucanusestore-boughtpiedoughinthisrecipe.Weprefergoldenraisinshere,butregularraisinswillalsowork.WeliketoservethispiewithBourbonWhippedCreamorvanillaicecream.

½ cupgoldenraisins

3ouncespitteddates,chopped(½cup)

½ cuppecans,toastedandchopped

1 teaspoongroundcinnamon

teaspoonsalt

5 largeeggyolks

cupsheavycream

2.Sprinkle3tablespoonswateroverflourmixture.Usingrubberspatula,stirandpressdoughuntilitstickstogether.Ifdoughdoesnotcometogether,addremaining1tablespoonwater.Turnoutdoughontosheetofplasticwrapandformdoughinto4-inchdisk,wraptightlyinplasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor1hour.

3.Letchilleddoughsoftenslightly,about10minutes,beforerolling.(Wrappeddoughcanberefrigeratedforupto2daysorfrozenforupto1month.Iffrozen,letdoughthawcompletelyoncounterbeforerolling.)Rolldoughinto12-inchcircleonlightlyflouredcounter.Looselyrolldougharoundrollingpinandgentlyunrollitonto9-inchpieplate,lettingexcessdoughhangoveredge.Easedoughintoplatebygentlyliftingedgeofdoughwith1handwhilepressingintoplatebottomwithyourotherhand.

5.FORTHEFILLING:Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento325degrees.Processraisins,dates,andpecansinfoodprocessoruntilfinelyground,20to35seconds.Transfermixturetochilledpieshell.Usingyourfingers,gentlypressmixtureintoevenlayer.Combineflour,cinnamon,salt,andallspiceinsmallbowl.Beatbutterandsugartogetherwithhandheldmixeronmedium-lowspeeduntiljustcombined,about1minute.Addyolks,1atatime,andcontinuetobeatuntilincorporated.Addcreamandflourmixtureandcontinuetobeat,scrapingdownsidesofbowlasneeded,untiljustcombined.

6.Pourfillingoverraisinmixtureandbakeuntilsurfaceisdeepbrownandcenterjigglesslightlywhenpieisgentlyshaken,55to65minutes,rotating

platehalfwaythroughbaking.Letpiecoolcompletelyinplateonwirerackbeforeserving.(Piecanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)

1 cupheavycream

2 tablespoonsbourbon

tablespoonslightbrownsugar

BOURBONWHIPPEDCREAM

MAKESABOUT2CUPS

Thoughanystyleofwhiskeywillworkhere,wepreferthesmokysweetnessofbourbon.Forthemostefficientwhipping,makesureyourheavycreamisascoldaspossible.

Withhandheldmixeronmediumspeed,beatcream,bourbon,sugar,andvanillatogetheruntilstiffpeaksform,about2minutes.(Whippedcreamcanberefrigeratedforupto4hours.)

FUDGYTARHEELPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Somethinkthemoniker“tarheel”comesfromtheRevolutionaryWarwhenNorthCarolinianspouredtarintoarivertoslowBritishtroops;otherspointtotheCivilWarwhensoldiersfromthatstatethreatenedtotartheheelsofretreatingcomrades.Whateveritsorigins,tarheelpieservesupthebestofpieandgooey,fudgybrownies.Tocorrectthebrowniefilling’scloyingsweetness,wereplacedgranulatedsugarwithdarkbrownsugar,addingdepth.Forarichchocolatefilling,wecombinedmeltedsemisweetchocolateandbutterwithcocoapowderandoil.Brownsugar’smolassesnotesbolsteredthechocolate,andmixingitwithvanilla,salt,andeggsdevelopedanappealinglycracklytop.Ascoopofflourgavethefillingstructureanduppedthefudgytexture.Parbakingthepieshellandtoastingthepecans

uppedthefudgytexture.Parbakingthepieshellandtoastingthepecansensuredthatbothstayedcrisp.Sprinklingthenutsoverthebottomoftheprebakedpieshellkeptthecrustfromgettingsoggy.Forpeoplewholikebrowniessofudgythattheyaretoomessytoeatoutofhand,thispieisamust.

1 tablespoonsugar

teaspoonsalt

tablespoonsicewater

FILLING

1cup(6ounces)semisweetchocolatechips

FUDGYTARHEELPIE

SERVES8

Homemadecrusttastesthebest,butyoucanusestore-boughtpiedoughinthisrecipe.Servewithicecream.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

cupvegetableoil

2 tablespoonsunsweetenedcocoapowder

¾ cuppacked(5¼ounces)darkbrownsugar

2 largeeggs

1 tablespoonvanillaextract

teaspoonsalt

¼ cup(1¼ounces)all-purposeflour1¼ cupspecans,toastedandchoppedcoarse

2.Sprinkle3tablespoonsicewateroverflourmixture.Usingrubberspatula,stirandpressdoughuntilitstickstogether.Ifdoughdoesnotcometogether,addremaining1tablespoonwater.Turnoutdoughontosheetofplasticwrapandforminto4-inchdisk,wraptightlyinplasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor1hour.

4.Trimoverhangto½inchbeyondlipofpieplate.Tuckoverhangunderitself;foldededgeshouldbeflushwithedgeofpieplate.Crimpdoughevenlyaroundedgeofpieplateusingyourfingers.Wrapdough-linedpieplatelooselyinplasticandfreezeuntildoughisfirm,about30minutes.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento375degrees.

5.Linechilledpieshellwithtwo12-inchsquaresofparchmentpaperordoublelayerofaluminumfoil,coveringedgestopreventburning,andfillwithpieweights.Bakeuntillightlygoldenaroundedges,18to25minutes.Carefullyremoveweightsandparchment,rotatepieshell,andcontinuetobakeuntilcenterbeginstolookopaqueandslightlydrier,3to6minutes.Letcoolcompletely.

6.FORTHEFILLING:Reduceoventemperatureto325degrees.Microwave⅔cupchocolatechipsandbutterinbowl,stirringoften,untilmelted,60to90seconds.Whiskinoilandcocoauntilsmooth.

7.Inseparatebowl,whisksugar,eggs,vanilla,andsalttogetheruntilsmooth.Whiskchocolatemixtureintosugarmixtureuntilincorporated.Stirinflourandremaining⅓cupchocolatechipsuntiljustcombined.

8.Spreadpecansinbottomofpieshell,thenpourbatterovertop,usingspatulatolevel.Bakepieuntiltoothpickinsertedincentercomesoutwiththincoatingofbatterattached,30to35minutes.Letpiecoolonwirerackuntilbarelywarm,about1½hours.Serve.(Piecanbereheated,uncovered,in300-degreeovenuntilwarmthroughout,10to15minutes.)

NUTREGIMEN

Aftertoastingnutsin350-degreeovenforabout5minutes,sprinkletheminbottomofprebakedpieshell;don’tmixthemintofilling.Thisway,pieshellwon’tgetsoggyandpiewillbeeasytoslice.

PEANUTBUTTERPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

SmoothandcreamypeanutbutterpieisatemptingcreationfromdownSouth.Totransformpeanutbutterintoamousselikefilling,westartedbywhippingitwithcreamcheese(fortangandsliceability),confectioners’sugar,andatouchofcreamuntilitwaslightandfluffy.Wefoldedairywhippedcreamintothismixture,whichturnedthefillingsilkyyetsturdyenoughtoslicecleanly.Thecaramelnotesofbrownsugarinthegrahamcrackercrustcomplementedthepeanutflavor.Acloudofwhippedcreamontopofthefillingroundedoutourpie’slighttexture,butwecravedalittlecrunchinthefinishedproduct.Homemadecandiedpeanutsweretheanswer.Alayerofthepeanutsontopofthecooledcrustandtherestoverthetoppingprovidedanirresistiblesalty-sweetflavor.Beforerestingonour

thetoppingprovidedanirresistiblesalty-sweetflavor.Beforerestingonourlaurels,werevisitedthecrust,tryingitwithchocolategrahams.Thechocolate–peanutbutterpairingwasjustas(ifnotmore)appealing.

9wholegrahamcrackers,brokeninto1-inchpieces

3 tablespoonspackedlightbrownsugar

½ cuphoney-roastedpeanuts,chopped¾ cup(3ounces)plus2tablespoonsconfectioners’sugar¾

cupcreamypeanutbutter

cupsheavycream

PEANUTBUTTERPIE

SERVES8

All-naturalpeanutbutterwillworkinthisrecipe.YoucanuseourHomemadeCandiedPeanutsinplaceofthehoney-roastedpeanuts.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento325degrees.Grease9-inchpieplate.Processgrahamcrackersandbrownsugarinfoodprocessoruntilfinelyground,about30seconds.Addmeltedbutterandpulseuntilcombined,about8pulses.

2.Transfercrumbstopreparedplate.Usingbottomofdrymeasuringcup,presscrumbsintobottomandupsidesofplate.Bakeuntilcrustisfragrantandbeginningtobrown,12to14minutes,rotatingplatehalfwaythroughbaking.Letcrustcoolcompletelyonwirerack,about30minutes.Spread⅓cuppeanutsevenlyoverbottomofcooledcrust.

3.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,mix¾cupconfectioners’sugar,peanutbutter,creamcheese,and3tablespoonscreamonlowspeeduntilcombined,about1minute.Increasespeedtomedium-highandwhipuntilfluffy,about1minute.Transfertolargebowl;setaside.

4.Innow-emptymixerbowl,whip¾cupcreamonmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,1to3minutes.Gentlyfoldwhippedcreamintopeanutbuttermixturein2additionsuntilnowhitestreaksremain.Spoonfillingintocrustandspreadintoevenlayer.

5.Innow-emptymixerbowl,whipvanilla,remainingcream,andremaining2tablespoonsconfectioners’sugaronmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,1to3minutes.Spreadwhippedcreamevenlyoverfilling.Refrigerateuntilset,about2hours.Sprinklewithremainingpeanuts.Serve.

PEANUTBUTTERPIEWITHCHOCOLATEGRAHAMCRUST

Instep1,substitutechocolategrahamcrackersforgrahamcrackers.

½ cupdry-roastedpeanuts

2 tablespoonssugar

2 tablespoonswater

teaspoonsalt

HOMEMADECANDIEDPEANUTSMAKESABOUT½CUP

1.Linebakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Bringallingredientstoboilinmediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Cook,stirringconstantly,untilwaterevaporatesandsugarappearsdry,opaque,andsomewhatcrystallizedandevenlycoatspeanuts,about5minutes.

2.Reduceheattolowandcontinuetostirpeanutsuntilsugarturnsambercolor,about2minuteslonger.Transferpeanutstopreparedsheetandspreadinevenlayer.Letcoolcompletely,about10minutes.

THOROUGHBREDPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

TheoriginalrecipeforDerbyPie—thechocolate-walnut-bourbonpieservedatKentuckyDerbyparties—isthecloselyguardedsecretoftheKernfamilyofProspect,Kentucky.Aftertastingtherealthing,wewerejockeyingtore-createthistop-secretpieathome.Wekeptthefilling’ssweetnessincheckwithacombinationofbrownandwhitesugarsandusedcornstarchforthickening.Brownedbutteraddeddepth,andahitofbourbongavethefillinganutty,boozyflavorthatpairedwellwiththetoastedwalnuts.Parbakingtheshellensuredacrispcrustunderthefilling,butthewarmcrustwasanopportunitytosprinklethebottomwithchoppedbittersweetchocolatechunks,whichmeltedsowecouldspreadthemintoanevenlayer.WeknewwehadaTripleCrownwinner—asweet,deeplynuttyfilling

WeknewwehadaTripleCrownwinner—asweet,deeplynuttyfillingbakedinagoldencrustwithanintensejoltofchocolateineverybite.

1 tablespoonsugar

teaspoonsalt

tablespoonsicewater

THOROUGHBREDPIE

SERVES8

Homemadecrusttastesthebest,butyoucanusestore-boughtpiedoughinthisrecipe.WelikethispieservedwithadollopofBourbonWhippedCream.

FILLING

8tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto8pieces

3 tablespoonsbourbon

¾ cup(5¼ounces)granulatedsugar½ cuppacked(3½ounces)lightbrownsugar

teaspoonsalt

2largeeggsplus1largeyolk,lightlybeaten

1½ cupswalnuts,toastedandchopped

2.Sprinkle3tablespoonsicewateroverflourmixture.Usingrubberspatula,stirandpressdoughuntilitstickstogether.Ifdoughdoesnotcometogether,addremaining1tablespoonwater.Turnoutdoughontosheetofplasticwrapandformdoughinto4-inchdisk,wraptightlyinplasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor1hour.

4.Trimoverhangto½inchbeyondlipofpieplate.Tuckoverhangunderitself;foldededgeshouldbeflushwithedgeofpieplate.Crimpdoughevenlyaroundedgeofpieplateusingyourfingers.Wrapdough-linedpieplatelooselyinplasticandfreezeuntildoughisfirm,about30minutes.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento375degrees.

5.Linechilledpieshellwithtwo12-inchsquaresofparchmentpaperordoublelayerofaluminumfoil,coveringedgestopreventburning,andfillwithpieweights.Bakeuntilsurfaceofdoughnolongerlookswet,20to25minutes.Carefullyremovecrustfromovenandreduceoventemperatureto325degrees.Removeweightsandparchmentandsprinklechocolateoverbottomofhotcrust.Letchocolatesitfor5minutestosoften.Usingoffsetspatula,spreadchocolateintoevenlayer;setasidecrust.

6.FORTHEFILLING:Meltbutterinsmallsaucepanovermedium-lowheat.Cook,stirringconstantly,untilbutterisdarkgoldenbrownandhasnuttyaroma,5to7minutes.Offheat,slowlystirinbourbon;letcoolfor5

minutes.

7.Whiskgranulatedsugar,brownsugar,cornstarch,andsalttogetherinlargebowluntilcombined.Addeggsandyolkandvanilla,whiskinguntilsmooth.Slowlywhiskinwarmbuttermixtureuntilincorporated.Stirinwalnuts,thenpourfillingintochocolate-linedcrust.Bakeuntilfillingispuffedandcenterjigglesslightlywhenpieisgentlyshaken,35to40minutes,rotatingplatehalfwaythroughbaking.Letpiecoolonwirerackfor4hours.Sliceandserve.(Piecanbecoveredwithplasticandrefrigeratedforupto2days.)

GRASSHOPPERPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Namedaftertheminty,creamycocktailfirstshakenupinNewOrleans,grasshopperpieshouldboastabillowychiffonfillinginachocolate-cookiecrust.Whileicecreampieiswhatoftencomestomindatthementionofthisdessert,wewantedtoaddtheoriginalchiffonrecipetoourrepertoire.Westartedbysofteninggelatinincreamwithsugarandsaltbeforemeltingitovermediumheat,thenwhiskingtheheatedmixtureintobeateneggyolks.Wereturnedthegelatin-eggmixturetothestovetothickenandthenincorporatedthecordials:mintygreencrèmedementheandchocolatywhitecrèmedecacao.Afterlettingthefillingfirmupintherefrigerator,wedoubleduponwhippedcreamforanultrafluffytexture,carefullywhiskingin1cupbeforefoldingintherest.AsimplecookiecrustofmintyOreos

in1cupbeforefoldingintherest.AsimplecookiecrustofmintyOreosmirroredthefilling’smint-chocolateflavors.

16MintCremeOreocookies(withfilling),brokenintoroughpieces

FILLING

3 largeeggyolks

2 cupsheavycream

½ cup(3½ounces)sugar

Pinchsalt

GRASSHOPPERPIE

SERVES8

Ratherthanaclassicchocolate-cookiecrumbcrust,welikeonemadewithmintyOreos.Chocolatecurlsaddaprofessionaltouchandareeasytomake.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

2 teaspoonsunflavoredgelatin

¼ cupgreencrèmedementhe¼ cupwhitecrèmedecacao

Shavedchocolatecurls(optional)

1.FORTHECRUST:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Processcookiesinfoodprocessortofinecrumbs,about45seconds.Transfertobowl,drizzlewithbutter,andtoss.Presscrumbsevenlyintobottomandsidesof9-inchpieplateandrefrigeratecrustuntilfirm,about20minutes.Bakeuntilset,8to10minutes.Letcoolcompletelyonwirerack.

2.FORTHEFILLING:Beateggyolksinmediumbowl.Combine½cupcream,sugar,andsaltinmediumsaucepan.Sprinklegelatinovercreammixtureandletsituntilgelatinsoftens,about5minutes.Cookovermediumheatuntilgelatindissolvesandmixtureisveryhotbutnotboiling,about2minutes.Whiskingvigorously,slowlyaddgelatinmixturetoeggyolks.Returnmixturetosaucepanandcook,stirringconstantly,untilslightlythickened,about2minutes.Removefromheatandaddcrèmedementheandcrèmedecacao.Pourintocleanbowlandrefrigerate,stirringoccasionally,untilfillingiswobblybutnotset,about20minutes.

3.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipremaining1½cupscreamuntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,1to3minutes.Whisk1cupwhippedcreamintogelatinmixtureuntilcompletelyincorporated.Usingrubberspatula,foldgelatinmixtureintoremainingwhippedcreamuntilnowhitestreaksremain.Scrapemixtureintocooledpieshell,smoothtop,andrefrigerateuntilfirm,atleast6hoursorpreferablyovernight.(Piewillkeeptightlywrappedinrefrigeratorforupto2days.)Serve,toppedwithchocolatecurlsifusing.

MESS-FREECRUMBCRUST

Whileit’seasiertoputtogetheracrumbcrustthantorollouttraditionalpiedough,thatdoesn’tmeanthatcrumbcrustsareproblem-free.Thecrustcanbecrumblyandloose,anditoftenstickstoeverythingbutthepieplate.Here’showtomakeeven,mess-freecrumbcrustseverytime:

1.DISTRIBUTEANDPRESS:Usehandstodistributecrumbsinevenlayeroverbottomandupsidesofpieplate.Pressdownlightly.

2.SMOOTHINTOPAN:Placeplasticwrapontopofcrust,thenrunbackofspoonovercrumbs,smoothingthemintobottom,curves,andsidesofpan.

CHOCOLATECURLS

You’llneedablock(notbar)ofchocolate—semisweetandbittersweetbothworkwell—that’satleast1inchthick.

Softenchocolatebymicro-wavingonlowestpowersettingfor1minute.Itshouldsoften,notmelt.Runbladeofvegetablepeeleralongwidthofthesoftenedchocolate,creatingcurl.

BUTTERMILKPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ButtermilkpieisaSouthernclassic,holdingitsownagainstpecan,sweetpotato,andpeachpieswithitscreamytexture,tangy-sweettaste,andcrunchysugartop.Tomakeoursstandout,welookedtothetextureweloveinflansandpotsdecrèmeforthefilling.Allcustardsgettheirrichnessfromeggandheavycream,sowewhiskedeggs,eggyolks,andcreamtogetherwiththestandardbuttermilkpiecomponents:sugar,vinegar,butter,vanilla,cornstarch,and,ofcourse,plentyofbuttermilk.Thecornstarchandyolksprovidedaperfectlywobblystructure,andthevinegarbackedupthebuttermilk’stastytang.Topreventasoggycrust,weparbakedtheshellandbrusheditwithaneggwhitetoprotectitfromthewetfilling.Bakingthepie

atagentle300degreescookedthefillingevenly,butwealsowantedacrackly,lightlybrownedtop.Asprinklingofsugar10minutesintobakinggotusontherighttrack,andincreasingthetemperatureforthelastfewminutessealedthedeal—thealmost-meltedsugarcaramelizedquickly.Fromitsdelicate,cracklysugarcrusttoitsrich,creamyfilling,ourbuttermilkpiewassimplebutfullofSoutherncharm.

1 tablespoonsugar

teaspoonsalt

tablespoonsicewater

1largeeggwhite,lightlybeaten

BUTTERMILKPIE

SERVES8

Homemadecrusttastesthebest,butyoucanusestore-boughtpiedoughinthisrecipe.Usecommercialculturedbuttermilk(avoidnonfat),assomelocallyproduced,artisanalbuttermilksthatwetestedwerepronetocurdlingduringbaking.

FILLING

¾ cup(5¼ounces)plus2teaspoonssugar

1 tablespooncornstarch

teaspoonsalt

2largeeggsplus5largeyolks

cupsbuttermilk

cupheavycream

2 teaspoonsdistilledwhitevinegar

2.Sprinkle3tablespoonsicewateroverflourmixture.Usingrubberspatula,stirandpressdoughuntilitstickstogether.Ifdoughdoesnotcometogether,addremaining1tablespoonwater.Turnoutdoughontosheetofplasticwrapandformdoughinto4-inchdisk,wraptightlyinplasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor1hour.

4.Trimoverhangto½inchbeyondlipofpieplate.Tuckoverhangunderitself;foldededgeshouldbeflushwithedgeofpieplate.Crimpdoughevenlyaroundedgeofpieplateusingyourfingers.Wrapdough-linedpieplatelooselyinplasticandfreezeuntildoughisfirm,about30minutes.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento375degrees.

5.Linechilledpieshellwithtwo12-inchsquaresofparchmentpaperordoublelayerofaluminumfoil,coveringedgestopreventburning,andfillwithpieweights.Placepieplateonrimmedbakingsheetandbakeonlower-middleovenrackuntillightlygoldenaroundedges,20to25minutes.Carefullyremoveweightsandparchment,rotatesheet,andcontinuetobakeuntilgoldenbrown,5to7minutes.Brushsurfaceofhotcrustwitheggwhite(youwon’tneedallofittocoatcrust)andbakefor1minutelonger.

6.FORTHEFILLING:Meanwhile,whisk¾cupsugar,cornstarch,andsalttogetherinlargebowl.Whiskeggsandyolksintosugarmixtureuntil

wellcombined.Whiskbuttermilk,cream,meltedbutter,vinegar,andvanillaintosugar-eggmixtureuntilincorporated.

7.Reduceoventemperatureto300degrees.Whiskbuttermilkmixturetorecombineand,leavingpieshellinoven,carefullypourbuttermilkmixtureintohotpieshell.Bakefor10minutes.

8.Sprinkleremaining2teaspoonssugarevenlyovertopofpie.Continuetobakeuntilcenterjigglesslightlywhenpieisshaken,30to40minutes.Removepiefromovenandincreaseoventemperatureto450degrees.Onceovencomestotemperature,placepieonupper-middleovenrackandbakeuntilgoldenbrownontop,5to7minutes.Letpiecoolfor30minutesonwirerack.Transfertorefrigeratortochill,about3hours.Serve.

CAROLINASWEETPOTATOSONKER

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Fromitsfunnynametoitsstarringingredient,thelittle-knownsweetpotatosonkerbafflesfoodhistorianstothisday.Onethingremainsclear,though:Thisisn’tyourtypicalsweetpotatopie.Wherethemorefamiliarpiedeliversacreamyfillingofmashedsweetpotatoesinasinglecrust,sonkerservesupslicedsweetpotatoestossedwithbrownsugarandspices,bakedunderalattice-topcrust,anddrizzledwithasweet,spiced,custard“dip.”Forsoft,flavorfulsweetpotatoesthatheldtheirshape,westeamedtheslicesoverapplecideruntilalmosttender,thenreducedtheciderandtossedthesweetswiththeconcentratedliquid.Acombinationofcinnamon,allspice,lemonjuice,andsugarboostedthefilling’swarm,homeyflavors.Oncecooled,wespreadtheslicesinaparbakedcrustandfoldedstripsof

Oncecooled,wespreadtheslicesinaparbakedcrustandfoldedstripsofthetopcrustintoalattice.Brushingthelatticewithbeateneggandfinishingwithasprinklingofcinnamonsugargaveitaspice-flecked,crunchycoating.Forthecreamydip,wesimmeredmilk,sugar,cinnamon,andcornstarchtogether,addingvanillaofftheheat.Afterwetookjustonebiteofthissweetandspicedsonker,itsunusualnamewasnolaughingmatter.

SONKER

2packagesstore-boughtpiedough

1largeegg,beaten

2 cupsapplecider

4poundssweetpotatoes,peeled,quarteredlengthwise,andsliced¼inchthick

2½ tablespoonsall-purposeflour

CAROLINASWEETPOTATOSONKER

SERVES12

Ittakesabigsheetofpiedoughtolinea13by9-inchbakingdish.Wemakeiteasybyusingstore-boughtpiedough.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

teaspoonsalt

1 tablespoongranulatedsugar

CUSTARDDIP

2 cupswholemilk

¼ cup(1¾ounces)granulatedsugar

teaspoonsalt

1.FORTHESONKER:Unroll2doughroundsonlightlyflouredcounter.Brushhalfof1roundwithegg.Overlaphalfofsecondroundoveregg-coatedportionoffirst.Rolldoughinto17by13-inchrectangle;fitdoughinto13by9-inchbakingdish.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor30minutes.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Repeatshapingandrollingwithremaining2rounds;setasideegg.Trimdoughintorectangleandcutintoten1-inchstrips.Transferstripstopreparedsheet,coverwithplastic,andrefrigeratefor30minutes.

2.Whiledoughchills,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento375degrees.BringcidertoboilinDutchoven.Placesteamerbasketinpotandfillwithsweetpotatoes.Reduceheattomediumandcook,covered,untilpotatoesarenearlytender,20to30minutes.Removepotatoes,leavingciderinpot.

3.Cookcideroverhighheatuntilreducedto½cup,about5minutes.Combinebrownsugar,butter,flour,lemonjuice,vanilla,½teaspooncinnamon,allspice,salt,drainedpotatoes,andreducedciderinlargebowl.Spreadpotatomixtureinrimmedbakingsheetandletcoolcompletely,about20minutes.

4.Transferpotatomixturetodough-lineddishandpressintoevenlayer.Brushedgesofdoughwithreservedegg.Withlongsidefacingyou,lay4doughstripslengthwiseoverpotatomixture(stripswillbelongerthandish).Foldbackfirstandthirdstripsandlayperpendicularstripacrosssecondandfourthstrips.Unfoldfirstandthirdstrips,coveringperpendicularstrip.Repeatwithremaining5strips,alternatingbetweenfoldingbackfirstandthirdstripsandsecondandfourthstrips.Pressdoughstripsintoedgesofcrustandtrimexcess.Folddoughsidesinwardunderlipofbakingdishandcrimpwithfork.

5.Combinegranulatedsugarandremaining¼teaspooncinnamoninbowl.Brushdoughwithreservedeggandsprinklewithcinnamonsugar.Coverwithfoilandbakefor15minutes.Uncoverandbakeuntildeepgoldenbrown,55minutesto1hour,rotatingdishhalfwaythroughbaking.Letsonkercoolonwirerackforatleast1½hoursbeforeserving.(Sonkercan

berefrigeratedforupto24hours.Bringsonkertoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.)6.FORTHECUSTARDDIP:Whilesonkercools,bringmilk,sugar,cornstarch,cinnamon,andsalttosimmerinmediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Reduceheattomedium-lowandcook,whiskingfrequently,untilslightlythickened,about15minutes.Offheat,addvanilla.Transferdiptobowlandletcoolcompletely,about30minutes.Servesonkerwithdip.

WEAVINGALATTICEFORSONKER

1.Evenlylay4doughstripsofdoughparalleltothelongsideofdish.

2.Foldfirstandthirdstripsback;layperpendicularstripacrossother2.Unfoldstripstocover.Continue,alternatingsetsofstrips.

1.KNOEPHLASOUP,NORTHDAKOTA2.IOWASKINNIES,DESMOINES,IA3.IRONRANGEPORKETTA,HIBBING,MN

4.GREENBAYBOOYAH,GREENBAY,WI5.CHICKENVESUVIO,CHICAGO,IL

6.BIEROCKS,NEBRASKAANDKANSAS

7.THEBESTREUBENSANDWICHES,OMAHA,NE

8.ST.LOUISGOOEYBUTTERCAKE,ST.LOUIS,MO

9.BUCKEYES,COLUMBUS,OH

CHAPTER3:THEMIDWESTANDGREATPLAINS

CheeseFrenchees

IowaLooseMeatSandwiches

IowaSkinnies

ProsperitySandwiches

TheBestReubenSandwiches

IronRangePorketta

Chicago-StyleItalianRoastBeef

Chicago-StyleItalianBeefSandwichesQuickJus

WisconsinGrilledBratsandBeer

WisconsinCheddarBeerSoup

GreenBayBooyah

KnoephlaSoup

BarbertonFriedChickenBarbertonHotSauce

ChickenVesuvio

SteakdeBurgo

Bierocks

KielbasaCasserole

PorkChopCasserole

KansasCityBarbecuedBrisket

KansasCityStickyRibs

SmokyKansasCityBarbecueBeans

Crumb-CoatedBakedHamHotMustardSauce

HoppelPoppel

GoettaPerfectFriedEggs

SwedishPancakes

DillyCasseroleBread

SandTarts

Kringle

BlueberryBoyBait

St.LouisGooeyButterCakeButterscotchGooeyButterCakeChocolateGooeyButterCake

Buckeyes

FINDALOCALHOTSPOT

CHEESEFRENCHEES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Thedeep-friedgrilledcheesesandwichesknownasFrencheeswonthenow-closedMidwesternfamilyrestaurantKing’sFoodHosthordesoffansinthe1960s.Longbeforefolksweredeep-fryingeverythingfromcookiestopickles,thisNebraska-basedrestaurantchainwasmakingthegrilledcheesesandwichevenmoreirresistiblebycoatingthebutterybreadandgooeycheesefillinginagolden,friedcrust.Tore-createtheFrencheeathome,webeganwithasimplegrilledcheesesandwich:Americancheesebetweentwoslicesofheartywhitebreadwithasmearofmayoforextrarichness.Weslicedthesandwichesintotrianglesanddunkedtheminanegg-milkmixturebeforebreadingthemincoarseRitzcrackercrumbs.ChillingtheFrencheesintherefrigeratorforaboutanhoursetthecrust.WeheatedoilinaDutchoventoprotectusfromhot

anhoursetthecrust.WeheatedoilinaDutchoventoprotectusfromhotsplatterandfriedourchilledFrencheesuntilgoldenbrown.Thesesandwicheswereastemptinglycrunchyandcheesyasweimagined,andadipinketchupsealedthedeal.

1½ sleevesRitzcrackers(50crackers),pulsedinfoodprocessortocoarsecrumbs2/3

cupmilk

2 largeeggs

cupmayonnaise

8 slicesheartywhitesandwichbread

6 slicesdeliAmericancheese

quartspeanutorvegetableoil

CHEESEFRENCHEES

SERVES4

Thoughmanyrecipesdon’tspecifyabrandofcracker,welikeRitzhere.Trydippingthesandwichesinketchup—aFrencheefanatictoldusthat’showsheatethemgrowingupinOklahoma.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Spreadcrackercrumbsinshallowdish.Whiskmilkandeggstogetherinmediumbowl.Spreadmayonnaiseon1sideofeachslicebread.Arrange1½slicescheeseon4slicesbreadandtopwithremaining4slicesbread,mayonnaisesidefacingcheese.Cuteachsandwichdiagonallyintoquarters.Oneatatime,dipsandwichquartersintoeggmixture,thencoatwithcrackercrumbs,pressingtoadhere.Refrigerateonpreparedbakingsheetuntilset,about1hour.

2.PouroilintolargeDutchovenuntilitmeasures2inchesdeep.Heatoilto375degreesovermedium-highheat.Fryhalfofchilledsandwichquartersuntilgoldenbrown,1to2minutesperside.Transfertopapertowel–linedplateandrepeatwithremainingsandwichquarters.Serve.

FRYINGSUCCESS

Whendoneright,fryingisn’tdifficult.Itallcomesdowntothetemperatureoftheoil.Iftheoilistoohot,theexteriorofthefoodwillburnbeforeitcooksthrough.Ifit’snothotenough,thefoodwon’treleasemoistureandwillfryuplimpandsoggy.FollowourtipsforfryingFrencheesandallyourfriedfoods.

HAVETHERIGHTTHERMOMETER:Athermometerthatcanregisterhightemperaturesisessential.Onethatclipstothesideofthepot,likeacandythermometer,savesyoufromdippingathermometerinandoutofapotofhotoil.

USEALARGE,HEAVYPOT:AheavypotorDutchoventhatisatleast6quartsincapacityensuresevenheating,helpstokeeptheoilhot,andgivesthefoodplentyofroomtofry.

FRYINBATCHES:Addfoodtothehotoilinsmallportions.Addingtoomuchfoodatoncewillmakethetemperaturedroptoomuchandwillturnoutsoggy—ratherthancrisp—friedfood.

LETTHEFRIEDFOODDRAIN:Letthefinishedfooddrainonpapertowelsorawireracktominimizegreasiness.

REUSETHEOIL:Unlessyouhaveusedittofryfish,don’tthrowawayyourfryoil—youcanuseitthreeorfourmoretimes.Tosaveoilforanotheruse,lettheoilcooltoroomtemperature,thenfilteritthroughastrainerlinedwithtwoorthreelayersofcheeseclothorpapercoffeefilterstoremoveanybitsoffood.Forshort-termstorage,storeoils(leftoverornew)inacool,darkspot,sinceexposuretoairandlightmakesoilturnrancidfaster.Butforlong-termstorage(beyondonemonth),thecoolerthestoragetemperature,thebetter—werecommendthefreezer.

IOWALOOSEMEATSANDWICHES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Atfirstglance,theIowaloosemeatsandwichlookslikeaSloppyJoegonewrong,butonetasteofitssavory,flavorfulgroundbeefprovesit’sjustright.Formeatthatstayedtastyandmoistwhencookedwelldone,weused85percentleangroundbeef.Wekeptourseasoningsimple,addingonlysalt,pepper,tangyyellowmustard,andateaspoonofsugartogivethebeefsomesubtlesweetness.WithoutaclassicMaid-Ritesteamboxonhand,weusedaskillettosimmerthebeefandseasoninginwater.Choppedonionaddedextraflavor,andcoveringthepansteamedtheloosemeatfillingtoperfection.Asmearofmustardonthehamburgerbunsandafewdillpicklesliceswereallthecondimentsweneeded.Thoughnotmuchtolookat,thesejuicy,crumblyloosemeatsandwicheswonusoverwithonebite.

overwithonebite.

1pound85percentleangroundbeef

cupwater

1tablespoonyellowmustard,plusextraforserving

1 teaspoonsugar

1 teaspoonsalt

1 teaspoonpepper

4 hamburgerbunsSliceddillpickles

IOWALOOSEMEATSANDWICHES

SERVES4

Donotsubstituteleanergroundbeefinthisrecipeorthesandwichwillbedry.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Combinebeef,water,mustard,sugar,salt,andpepperin10-inchskillet.Bringtosimmerovermediumheat,breakingupmeatwithspoon.Reduceheattomedium-lowtomaintaingentlesimmerandcook,stirringfrequently,untilmeatisnolongerpink,about5minutes.Stirinonion,cover,andremovefromheat;keepwarmwhilepreparingbuns.

2.Spreadextramustardonbunbottoms,then,usingslottedspoon,moundbeefmixtureontop.Capwithpicklesandbuntops.Serve.

EATINGLOCAL MARSHALLTOWN,IA

Inearlierdays,theloosemeatsandwichwasubiquitousthroughoutthestatesofIowa,Minnesota,Nebraska,Illinois,andKansas.IfyouaskfolksincentralIowa,thisbelovedsandwichisproperlycalledaMaid-Rite,aftertheMaid-Ritechainthatmadeitfamous.Inotherstates,though,youmightfinditsoldunderdifferentaliases:atavern,asteamer,aBigT,andatastee,tonameafew.Whateveryoucallit,thesandwichcanstillbefoundinahandfulofdiners

andsmallrestaurantsaroundthecentralMidwest,andIowaclaimssome30remainingMaid-Ritefranchises.John“Doc”Willoughby,Cook’sCountry’seditorialdirectorandanativeofGrundyCenter,Iowa,helpedusunderstandthebeauty(andsimplicity)ofthesandwich.DocwasaregularatHulne’sMaid-Riteinhishometownuntilitclosedsome40yearsago.Afterthat,hehadtogethisloosemeatfixatTAYLOR’SMAID-RITEinnearbyMarshalltown,whichisstillopentoday.Therecipehasn’tchangedsubstantiallysinceitsdebuttherein1928.AsallMaid-Ritesusedtodo,Taylor’sgrindsitsmeatdailyandusesalargesteamboxtocookandholdthelightlyseasonedmeat.Asfortheseasonings,that’ssomethingofamystery.PlentyofaficionadosontheInternetclaimtohavenailedtheformula,butthere’slittleconsensus.Mostagreeonthebasics:saltandpepper.Beyondthat,somecallforsugar,Worcestershiresauce,mustard,beefbouillon,soysauce,orpaprika.Thebeefhasnosauce,perse—nothingtoreallybindittogether.Infact,thesandwichisservedwithaspoontoscoopupallthebeefthatescapesfromthewaxpaperwrapping.Werecommendnapkins,too.

TAYLOR’SMAID-RITE106S.3rdAve.Marshalltown,IA

IOWASKINNIES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Don’tletthenamefoolyou—thecrunchy,friedporktenderloinsandwichknownasthe“skinny”isnotlightfare.AlloverIowa,porktenderloinsarepoundedthin,breaded,fried,andservedonhamburgerbuns.Atrimmedporktenderloinwasthekeyingredient,slicedintofourevenpiecesandpoundedintoalmostcomicallyoversizecutlets.Forthebreading,thecutletswerecoatedwithflour,dippedinatangy,richmixtureofeggandmayonnaise,androlledinacrunchyblendofsaltinesandbreadcrumbs.Withcutletssothin,wewereabletofryourskinniestoacrisp,deepgoldencolorinunder5minuteswithoutovercooking.FollowingIowaskinnycustom,weservedourcrunchycutletsonasoftbunwithshreddediceberglettuce,tomatoslices,andmayonnaise.

1(1-pound)porktenderloin,trimmedSaltandpepper

3slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,tornintoquarters

16 squareor18roundsaltines

2 largeeggs

¼ cupmayonnaise,plusextraforserving

1 cupvegetableoil

4 hamburgerbuns

¼ headiceberglettuce(2¼ounces),shredded

1tomato,coredandsliced

IOWASKINNIES

SERVES4

Afterthetenderloiniscutintopiecesinstep1,eachpieceshouldweighroughly4ounces.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Cuttenderloininhalf.Cuteachhalfinhalfagain,cuttingtaperedtailpieceslightlythickerthanmiddlemedallions.Coverporkpieces,cutsideup,withplasticwrapandpoundto¼-inchthicknesswithmeatpounder.Patcutletsdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

2.Pulsebreadandsaltinesinfoodprocessortofinecrumbs,about12pulses;transfertoshallowdish.Spreadflourinsecondshallowdish.Whiskeggsandmayonnaisetogetherinthirdshallowdish.

3.Workingwith1cutletatatime,dredgecutletsinflour,dipineggmixture,thencoatwithcrumbs,pressinggentlytoadhere.Transfercutletstopreparedwirerackandletdryfor5minutesorrefrigerateforupto1hour.

4.Heat½cupoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Workingwith2cutletsatatime,frycutletsuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisp,2to3minutesperside.Transfertopapertowel–linedplateandkeepwarminoven.Discardoil,wipeoutskillet,andrepeatwithremaining½cupoilandremaining2cutlets.Serveonhamburgerbunswithlettuce,tomato,andextramayonnaise.

THESKINNYONPORKCUTLETS

1.Useparingknifetoremoveanysilverskinorextraneousfatfromtenderloin.

2.Cuttrimmedtenderloininto4equalpieces.

3.Covereachpieceofporkwithplasticwrapandpoundinto¼-inch-thickcutlets.

PROSPERITYSANDWICHES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Thoughthisopen-facedsandwichisagreatwaytouseupleftoverturkey,wewantedtomakeourversionofthisMidwesternmeltastandoutmealworthatriptothedelicounter.Forprosperitysandwicheswithawealthofflavor,wepairedslicesofroastturkeyandhamwitharichcheesesauce,earthysautéedmushrooms,andslicedtomatoes—butthechallengewouldbeprotectingthecrustytoastedbread.Startingwitharouxofbutterandflour,wewhiskedtogetherathickcheesesauceofmilk,shreddedcheddar,spicyDijon,Worcestershire,andpepper.Sautéingwhitemushroomswithshallotandbutteruntilthejuiceevaporatedconcentratedtheirflavoranddriedthemenoughtopreventsoggytoast.Afterlayeringthemushrooms,meat,andtomatoesonthebread,wefinishedwithageneroushelpingofthecheesesauceandanextra

bread,wefinishedwithageneroushelpingofthecheesesauceandanextrasprinklingofcheddar.Afterafewminutesunderthebroilerourprosperitysandwichesemergedwithmelted,golden-browncheesecoatingthewarmtoppings.Thetoaststayedcrisp,crunchy,anddry,andwithsomuchgooeycheesetoenjoy,wefeltprosperousindeed.

8ounceswhitemushrooms,trimmedandslicedthin

1shallot,minced

teaspoonsalt

2 cupswholemilk

8ouncessharpcheddarcheese,shredded(2cups)

2 teaspoonsDijonmustard

teaspoonpepper

(¾-inch-thick)slicesrusticwhitebread

PROSPERITYSANDWICHESLeftoverroastturkeyworksgreathere.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

8 ouncesthinlyslicedroastturkey

8 ouncesthinlysliceddeliham

2tomatoes,cored,cutinto8(¼-inch-thick)slices,andpatteddry

1.Melt1tablespoonbutterinlargesaucepanovermedium-highheat.Addmushrooms,shallot,andsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilwellbrowned,5to7minutes.Transfertobowl.

2.Meltremaining4tablespoonsbutterinnow-emptysaucepanovermediumheat.Stirinflourandcookfor1minute.Slowlywhiskinmilkandbringtosimmer.Reduceheattolowandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthickened,4to6minutes.Offheat,stirin½cupcheddar,mustard,Worcestershire,andpepper;setaside.

3.Adjustovenrack5inchesfrombroilerelementandheatbroiler.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithaluminumfoilandspraywithvegetableoilspray.Arrangebreadslicesonpreparedbakingsheetandbroiluntiltoasted,1to2minutesperside.

4.Dividemushroommixtureamongtoastedbreadslices.Arrange2ouncesturkey,2ouncesham,and2slicestomatoovermushroomsoneachsliceoftoast.Spoon½cupcheesesauceevenlyovereachsandwichandsprinklewithremaining1½cupscheddar.Broiluntilcheddarisbrowned,3to5minutes.Letcoolfor5minutes.Serve.

BROILERHEAT

It’sgoodtoknowifyourbroilerrunsrelativelyhot,average,orcold.Thisinformationallowsyoutoadjustthecookingtimeforrecipesaccordingly.Toseehowyourbroilerstacksup,heatitonhighandplaceasliceofwhitesandwichbreaddirectlyundertheheatingelementontheupper-middlerack.Ifthebreadtoaststogoldenbrownin30secondsorless,yourbroilerrunsveryhot,andyouwillneedtoreducethecookingtimebyaminuteortwo.Ifthebreadtoastsperfectlyin1minute,yourbroilerrunsaboutaverage.Ifthebreadtakes2minutesorlongertotoast,yourbroilerrunscoolandyoumayneedtoincreasethecookingtimebyaminuteortwo.

ASANDWICHINEVERYPOT?

DuringtheGreatDepression,MayfairHotelchefEdwardVoegeliinSt.Louiscameupwiththerecipefortheknife-and-fork“prosperity”sandwich.What’sinthename?Apparently,aninsult.Thehumble,albeittasty,dishwasintendedasadigatthen-presidentHerbertHooverandhis(failed)promisesthatprosperitywasjustaroundthecorner.

THEBESTREUBENSANDWICHES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

TheNebraska-bornReubenisadelicounterstaple,butat-homeadaptationsofthiscornedbeefsandwichoftenyieldwetryewithachillyfilling.Topreventwaterloggedbread,wedrainedandquicklycookedthesauerkrauttoremoveexcessmoisture.Cidervinegarandbrownsugarcontributedgreattangtothestore-boughtkraut,andourownhybridofRussianandThousandIslanddressingsaddedazesty,creamylayerofflavor.Toensuregooeycheeseandawarmcenter,weusedquick-meltingshreddedSwisscheeseandcookedoursandwichesinacoveredskillet.Oureffortspaidoff—ourReubenswerewarmandtangy,andtherye(andourhands)stayedniceanddry.

cupmayonnaise

¼ cupfinelychoppedsweetpicklesplus1teaspoonsweetpicklejuice

2 tablespoonscocktailsauce

1cupsauerkraut,drainedandrinsed

1 teaspoonbrownsugar

8 slicesryebread

1cupshreddedSwisscheese(4ounces)

12ouncesthinlysliceddelicornedbeef

THEBESTREUBENSANDWICHES

SERVES4

Cornedbeefistypicallymadefromeitherthebrisketortheround.Wepreferthecornedbeefbrisket.Wefindpouchedsauerkraut,soldnearthepicklesinmostsupermarkets,moreflavorfulthanjarredorcannedvarieties.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Whiskmayonnaise,pickles,picklejuice,andcocktailsaucetogetherinsmallbowl;setaside.Cooksauerkraut,vinegar,andsugarin12-inchskilletovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilliquidevaporates,about3minutes.Transfersauerkrauttobowlandwipeoutskillet.

2.Spreaddressingevenlyon1sideofeachslicebread.Layerhalfofcheeseon4slicesbread,thentopwithhalfofcornedbeef.Dividesauerkrautevenlyovermeat,thentopwithremainingcornedbeefandremainingcheese.Arrangeremaining4slicesbread,dressingsidedown,overcheese.

3.Melt2tablespoonsbutterinnow-emptyskilletovermediumheat.Place2sandwichesinpanandcookuntilgoldenbrownonfirstside,2to3minutes.Flipsandwichesandcook,covered,overmedium-lowheatuntilsecondsideisgoldenbrownandcheeseismelted,about2minuteslonger.Transfertowirerackandrepeatwithremaining2tablespoonsbutterandremaining2sandwiches.Serve.

REINVENTINGREUBEN

SoggyryebreadandacoldinteriorarecommonproblemsformanyhomemadeReubens.Topreventasquishysituation,wequicklycookthesauerkrauttoevaporateexcessmoisture.Asanaddedbonus,thecooked’krautalsohelpstowarmupthemiddleofthesandwich.

NOTSOFAST,NEWYORK

ThegrilledReubenistheepitomeofaNewYorkdelisandwich,butevenTheNewYorkTimesreportsthattheReubenwascreatedinthe1920sattheBlackstoneHotelinOmaha,Nebraska,whenalocalgrocer,ReubenKulakofsky,concocteditforhispokerbuddies,thenconvincedthehotelownertoputitonthemenu.Awaitresstherewonanationalcontestwiththesandwichinthe1950sanditsoonsweptthecountry.Goodtastetravels!

IRONRANGEPORKETTA

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

PorkettasandwichesareasubiquitousashamburgersinMinnesota’sIronRange,buttheyarevirtuallyunknownelsewhere.Hopingtointroducethisheavilyseasonedshreddedporkspecialtytoawideraudience,westartedbyinfusingabonelessporkbuttroastwiththesignatureporkettaspices—fennelandgarlic.Tomaximizetheseasoning’spenetrationandtoshortentheroast’scookingtime,webutterfliedthemeatandcutacrosshatchpatternintobothsides.Werubbedamixtureofcrackedfennelseeds,salt,pepper,andgranulatedgarlicintothemeatbeforewrappingitinplasticwrapandrefrigeratingitfor6hours.Theporkbutt’slicoriceflavorwasreinforcedwhenwespreadchoppedfreshfenneloveritssurfacejustbeforeroasting.Theroastwastenderandreadyforshreddinginabout3hours,andafterwetossedthebite-sizepiecesofmeatwithsomeofthe

about3hours,andafterwetossedthebite-sizepiecesofmeatwithsomeofthedrippings,ourflavor-packedporkettawasfittoserve.Thissandwichwasalmosttoogoodtoshare—butwedecideditwashightimethisIronRangemainstaymadeitsbigdebut.

3tablespoonsfennelseeds,cracked

Saltandpepper

2 teaspoonsgranulatedgarlic

1(5-pound)bonelessporkbuttroast,trimmed

1fennelbulb,stalksdiscarded,bulbhalved,cored,andchopped

8 crustysandwichrolls

IRONRANGEPORKETTA

SERVES8

Porkbuttroastisoftenlabeled“Bostonbutt”inthesupermarket.Thisrecipecallsforgranulatedgarlic,whichhasawell-roundedgarlicflavor.Itisgoldenandhasthetextureoftablesalt.Garlicpowderispaler,withthetextureofflour,andcanbeacrid.Don’tconfusethetwoorsubstitutegarlicpowderinthisrecipe.Tocrackthefennelseeds,spreadthemonacuttingboard,placeaskilletontop,andpressdownfirmlywithbothhands.Theporkettatastesbestwhentherawmeatsitsintherefrigeratorforafull24hourswiththespices.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Combinefennelseeds,1tablespoonsalt,2teaspoonspepper,andgranulatedgarlicinbowl.Slicethroughporkparalleltocounter,stopping½inchfromedge,thenopenmeatflatlikeabook.Cut¼-inch-deepslits,spaced1inchapart,incrosshatchpatternonbothsidesofroast.Rubroastalloverwithspicemixture,takingcaretoworkspicesintocrosshatch.Wraproasttightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast6hoursorupto24hours.

2.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento325degrees.Unwrapmeatandplaceinroastingpan,fatsidedown.Spreadchoppedfennelevenlyovertopofroast.Coverroastingpantightlywithaluminumfoil.Roastuntilmeatregisters200degreesandforkslipseasilyinandoutofmeat,3to4hours.

3.Transferporktocarvingboardandletrestfor30minutes.Strainliquidinroastingpanthroughfine-meshstrainerintofatseparator;discardsolids.Shredporkintobite-sizepieces,returntopan,andtosswith½cupdefattedcookingliquid.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Dividemeatamongrollsandserve.

PREPPINGTHEPORKETTA

Webutterflyandcrosshatchtheporkroasttoexposemaximumsurfaceareatosoakupseasoning.

1.BUTTERFLY:Slicethroughporkparalleltocounter,stopping½inchfromedge.Thenopenmeatflatlikeabook.

2.CROSSHATCH:Usechef’sknifetocut1-inchcrosshatchpattern¼inchdeeponbothsidesofmeat.

ITALIANROOTSINMINNESOTASOIL

Ifyoufollowfoodmedia,you’dthinkthatporchettahasbeenpopularizedinrecentyearsbyBrooklyn’shipsterfoodelite.Well,Hibbing,Minnesota,mighthavesomethingonParkSlope.WewentouttoMinnesotatomeetMarkThune,presidentofFraboni’s,whichhasbeenmakingporketta(acousinofporchetta)since1968.ThewholesalemeatcompanywastheoffshootofagrocerystorethatfounderLeoFraboni’sparentsopenedattheturnofthelastcentury.Thelocallyfamousrecipewashismom’sandcalledforfreshfennel—easytofindinhernativeItalybutmuchhardertoprocureinHibbingatthattime.Toensureasteadysupply,Leogrewhisown,andoneyear,whenthefennelcropfailed,Fraboni’srefusedtomakeporkettaatall.Today,theystillgrowtheirownfennel;it’sharvestedoverthesummerandfrozenforuseinporkettayear-round.That’sthekindofthriftweadmire.

CHICAGO-STYLEITALIANROASTBEEF

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSInChicago,bold,flavorfulItalianroastbeefisservedaujusafteranovernightmarinadeandalengthyovenbraise.Wewantedthesamezesty,seasonedbeefwithoutthewait,soweturnedtoaspicyrubratherthanamarinade.Ablendofgarlicpowder,driedbasilandoregano,andpepperdidthetrick,andbrowningthesurfaceoftheroastbeforeapplyingtherubensuredaflavorfulcrust.Cookingchoppedonion,mincedgarlic,flour,andsomeofourspicerubintheroast’srenderedfatestablishedourjus’sbase;chickenandbeefbrothsboosteditssavoryflavors.WithoursirloinroastnestledinaV-rack,weappliedthespicerub,bolsteredwithsalt,pepperflakes,andoil(addedforeasyadhering),andpouredthejusintotheroastingpanbelow.Asthemeatroastedintheoven,its

drippingslandedrightinthejus,reinforcingitsmeatyflavorevenfurther.Withourjuicymedium-rarebeef,itsgarlickyherbedcrust,andspicyjusallreadyinrecordtime,theWindyCity’sfavoriteSundaydinnerwasnowadishwewouldhappilyserveanydayoftheweek—makingsuretoleavesomeleftoversforChicago-StyleItalianBeefSandwiches!

4 teaspoonsdriedbasil

4 teaspoonsdriedoregano

1 tablespoonpepper

1(4-pound)topsirloinroast,fattrimmedto¼inch

1onion,choppedfine

tablespoonall-purposeflour

CHICAGO-STYLEITALIANROASTBEEF

SERVES6TO8

Ifyourroastislargerthan4pounds,youmayneedtoincreasethecookingtimeslightlyinstep4.SaveleftovermeatandjusforChicago-StyleItalianBeefSandwiches.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 cupsbeefbroth

2 cupschickenbroth

cupswater

2 teaspoonssalt

1 teaspoonredpepperflakes

1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento300degrees.SetV-rackinroastingpan.Combinegarlicpowder,basil,oregano,andpepperinsmallbowl;setaside.

2.Patroastdrywithpapertowels.Heat1tablespoonoilin12-inchskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Brownroastonallsides,about10minutes;transfertoV-rack.

3.Addoniontonow-emptyskilletandcookovermediumheatuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stiringarlic,flour,and1teaspoonreservedspicemixtureuntilfragrant,about1minute.Stirinbeefbroth,chickenbroth,andwater,scrapingupanybrownedbits.Bringmixturetoboil,thenpourintoroastingpan.

4.Stirsalt,pepperflakes,andremaining1tablespoonoilintoremainingspicemixture.Rubmixturealloverroast,transfertooven,andcookuntilmeatregisters120to125degrees(formedium-rare),1¼to1½hours.Transferroasttocarvingboard,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor20minutes.

5.Pourjusfromroastingpanthroughfine-meshstrainerandkeepwarm.Sliceroastcrosswiseagainstgraininto¼-inch-thickslices.Servewithjus.

BUILDINGBETTERFLAVOR

1.Brownmeatbeforeroastingtocreateflavorfulcrustonexterior.TransferroasttoV-rackinroastingpanandbeginworkonjus.

2.Keepbrownedbitsleftbehindinpanasbaseforjus.Cookonion,garlic,andseasoningsinemptyskillet,thenaddbrothsandwatertohelploosenbrownedbits.

3.Pourjusintoroastingpanbelowelevatedroastsoitcancatchflavorfuldrippingsandcookdowntodesiredconsistencywhilemeatcooks.

4.Applyrub,mixedwithoiltohelpitadhere,afterbrowningtopreventdriedherbsfromburning.

CHICAGO-STYLEITALIANBEEFSANDWICHES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSItalianbeefsandwichesareaChicagospecialtythatyousimplywon’tfindanywhereelse.Fromthespicygiardinieratothejus-soakedroll,theflavorsarebright,bold,andwellequippedtostanduptojuicy,generouslyseasonedChicago-StyleItalianRoastBeef.Toquicklymarrythesandwich’sboldflavors,wesimmeredthemeat,jus,andjarredgiardinierabrineuntilthebeefwasnolongerpink.Forarich,spicyrelishthatstayedputanddidn’tturnourbreadsoggy,weusedthedrainedgiardinieraandpulsedthevegetablesinthefoodprocessorwithmayonnaiseandredpepperflakes.Brushingthesubrollswithoilandtoastingthemunderthebroilermadeforasturdysandwich,readytosopuptheflavorfuljus.OurkitchenmaynothavethesamecharmastheLittleItaly

eateriesthatmadethesesandwichesfamous,butourtakeontheirspicyclaimtofametastedliketherealdeal.

4(6-inch)subrolls,partiallysplitlengthwise

4cupsthinlyslicedleftoverroastbeef

cupsleftoverjus

1(16-ounce)bottlegiardiniera,drained,1tablespoonbrinereserved

1 tablespoonmayonnaise

CHICAGO-STYLEITALIANBEEFSANDWICHES

SERVES4

Ifyoudon’thaveenoughleftoverjus,makeourQuickJus.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatbroiler.Brushinteriorofrollswithoilandarrange,oiledsideup,onbakingsheet.Broiluntilgoldenbrown,about1minute.

2.Combinebeef,jus,andgiardinierabrinein12-inchskilletandsimmerovermediumheatuntilmeatisnolongerpink,about6minutes.Meanwhile,pulsegiardiniera,mayonnaise,andpepperflakesinfoodprocessoruntilfinelychopped.

3.Arrangebeefontoastedrolls,drizzlewithjus,andtopwithgiardinieramixture.Serve.

1 teaspoonoliveoil

1 cupleftoverroastbeeftrimmings

1teaspoonall-purposeflour

2 cupsbeefbroth

QUICKJUS

MAKES1CUP

ForthisQuickJusrecipe,weenrichedcannedbeefbrothwithbrownedscrapsofbeef,thenthickenedthebrothwithalittleflour.

Heatoilin10-inchskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Addbeefandcookuntildarkbrown,about1minute.Reduceheattomedium,addonion,andcookuntilslightlysoftened,about1minute.Addflourandcook,stirringconstantly,untilfragrantandtoasty,about1minute.Whiskinbroth,scrapingupbrownedbits.Simmeruntilliquidisreducedbyhalf,about10minutes.Pourthroughfine-meshstrainerandserve.

EATINGLOCAL CHICAGO,IL

AskChicagotransplantswhattheymissmostabouttheirhomecity,andit’sagoodbetthelistwillincludespicyItalianbeefsandwiches,whichoriginatedwithstreetvendorsoutsidetheUnionStockYards.Unlikedeep-dishpizza,thislocalfavoriteisalmostimpossibletofindoutsidetheChicagocitylimits.Beforewedevelopedarecipeforthisiconicsandwich,wehadtogotothesourceandeattherealthing.WestoppedinatAL’S,aroadsidesandwichstandonTaylorStreetin

Chicago’sLittleItaly.Theambiencewasn’tmuchtospeakof,butAl’sItalianbeefsandwichdefinitelywas.ThemeatwasseasonedwithItalianspices(oregano,basil,garlic,andredpepperflakes),slicedthin,andbathedinatangyjusbeforebeingpiledhighontoajus-soakedrollandtoppedwithapepperygiardiniera(aspicyrelishofpickledvegetables)—aperfectstartingpointforourownrecipe.

AL’SITALIANBEEF1079W.TaylorSt.,Chicago,IL

WISCONSINGRILLEDBRATSANDBEER

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Wisconsintailgatepartiesarejustnotcompletewithoutgrilledbratwurst,andeverytailgatecookseemstopreparethisgame-daystaplealittledifferently.Grillingandthenbraisingthebratsmadethemsoggy,sowereversedtheorderandputthemdirectlyintoabeer-filleddisposablepanrightonthegrill.Grillingtheonionsbeforestirringthemintothebeergavethebraiseseriousflavor,andDijonmustardlentbrightnessandbodytotheliquid.Beforewenestledthemintosubrolls,ourflavorfulbraisedbratwurstgotsometimeonthegrilltocharandcrisp.Totakethebeerbraise’sflavorsastepfurther,wetookafewminutestoreducethecookingliquidintoatangysaucetospoonoverourfull-flavored,kickoff-readygrilledbrats.

2poundsonions,slicedinto½-inch-thickrounds(donotseparaterings)

3 tablespoonsvegetableoilPepper

3 cupsbeer

cupDijonmustard

1 teaspoonsugar

1 teaspooncarawayseeds

1(13by9-inch)disposablealuminumroastingpan

2poundsbratwurst(8to12sausages)

8–12 (6-inch)subrolls

WISCONSINGRILLEDBRATSANDBEER

SERVES6TO8

Light-bodiedlagersworkbesthere;Budweiser’smellowsweetnessmadeitourtoppick.Standardhotdogbunswillbetoosmallforthebulkybrats.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Brushonionroundswithoilandseasonwithpepper;setaside.Combinebeer,mustard,sugar,carawayseeds,and1teaspoonpepperindisposablepan,thenaddsausagesinsinglelayer.

3.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placeonionsongrillandcook,turningasneeded,untillightlycharredonbothsides,6to10minutes.Transferonionstopan,putpanoncookinggrate,covergrill,andcookfor15minutes.

4.Movepanto1sideofgrill.Transfersausagesdirectlytogrillandbrownonallsides,about5minutes.Transfersausagestoplatterandtentwithaluminumfoil.Continuetocookonionmixtureinpanuntilsauceisslightlythickened,about5minutes.Servesausagesandonionsonrollsandspoonssauceover.

GRILLINGBETTERBRATWURST

Whetheryou’retailgatingbeforethegameorjustgrillinginyourbackyard,here’showtogetgreatgrilledbratsandperfectlycookedonionseverytime.

1.Grillslicedonionsandtransfertopan.

2.Afterbraising,transfersausagestogrilltocrispwhilesaucereduces.

WISCONSINCHEDDARBEERSOUP

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Wisconsinisfamousforitsbeersandcheeses,soitcomesasnosurprisethatresidentsoftheBadgerStatehavelongenjoyedarichcombinationofthetwoincreamy,hearty,andoftenpopcorn-garnishedcheddarbeersoup.Weaimedtogiveoursapureedtextureandbalanced,tangyflavor.Amixofonion,carrots,andgarlicformedthebase,towhichweaddedchickenbrothandbeer.Wisconsin’sownMillerHighLifeofferedhonestbeerflavorwithoutanybitterness.Milkpairedwellwiththebeerbroth,keepingthesoupcreamybutnotheavy.Pureeingthesoupproducedasmoothtexture,butsimplystirringinshreddedcheddarledtolumps.Tofixthis,wemixedclump-preventingcornstarchintoablendofhand-shreddedAmericancheese(whichcontainsemulsifiersforsmoothmelting)andcheddarcheese,ensuringacreamy,even

emulsifiersforsmoothmelting)andcheddarcheese,ensuringacreamy,eventextureandsharpcheeseflavor.Whenthecheesewasstirredintoourblendedbase,thesoupfinallytookonthevelvetyqualitywewereexpectingwithenoughwarmcheddarandbeerflavorstogetusthroughaWisconsin-caliberwinter.

1onion,choppedfine

2carrots,peeledandchoppedfine

⅓ cupall-purposeflour

2cupswholeor2percentlow-fatmilk

cupschickenbroth

cupsbeer

ouncessharpcheddarcheese,shredded(3cups)

WISCONSINCHEDDARBEERSOUP

SERVES6

Anydomesticlagerwillworkinthissoup,butitdidn’tseemauthenticwithoutaWisconsinbeer;ourfavoriteisMillerHighLife.Youwillneedone4-ouncechunkofAmericancheesefromthedelicounterforthisrecipe;donotusepreslicedorpackagedshreddedcheesehere.FreezetheAmericancheesefor15minutestomakeshreddingeasier.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

4ouncesAmericancheese,shredded(1cup)

2teaspoonscornstarchSaltandpepperPopcorn(optional)

1.MeltbutterinDutchovenovermediumheat.Addonionandcarrotsandcookuntillightlybrowned,8to10minutes.Addgarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Stirinflourandcookuntilgolden,about1minute.Slowlywhiskinmilk,broth,andbeer.Bringmixturetosimmer,thenreduceheattolowandsimmergently(donotboil)untilcarrotsareverysoft,20to25minutes.

2.Meanwhile,tosscheesesandcornstarchtogetherinlargebowluntilwellcombined.Workinginbatches,processsoupinblenderuntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Returnsouptocleanpotandsimmerovermedium-lowheat.Whiskincheesemixture,1handfulatatime,untilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste;garnishwithpopcorn,ifusing;andserve.(Soupcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

THECOLOROFCHEDDAR

Istherereallyadifferenceinflavorbetweenyellowandwhitecheddarcheese?Wedonnedblindfoldstofindout.IfyouliveintheMidwest,yourcheddarisprobablyorange.Ifyouliveinthe

Northeast,yourcheddarisdefinitelywhite(it’sthecolorofbutter).Ourtestcookshavestrongopinionsaboutwhichcolorcheesetastesbetter(predictablyliningupwithwheretheygrewup).Tosettlethematteronceandforall,weblindfolded10cooksandeditorsandhadthemtastetwonationalbrandsofsharpwhiteandorange(sometimeslabeledyellow)cheddar,plainandinmacaroniandcheese.Whatdidwelearn?Onlyonetasterwasabletodistinguishflavordifferencesbetweenthetwo

colorsofcheddar(andwasthatjustblindluck?);mostwondered,“Isthisatrick?Areyousurewe’renottastingjustonecheese?”Orangecheddarsarecoloredwithgroundannattoseeds.Theseseeds,whicharecalledachioteinLatincooking,areusedtocolorbutterandmargarine,too.Don’tletregionalismcoloryourperception:Colorhasnoflavor.

WHICHBEERISBEST?

Althoughanydomesticlagerwillworkinthissoup,WisconsinCheddarBeerSoupjustdidn’tseemauthenticwithoutaWisconsinbeer.WetastedfivewidelyavailableWisconsinbrands—Miller,MillerHighLife,MillerGenuineDraft,Schlitz,andPabstBlueRibbon—bothinsoupandontheirown.Aftersomeheateddebate,tastersselectedMillerHighLifeforitshoppycharacterandbalancedflavor,praisingitasthe“perfectcomplementtothetanginessofthecheddar.”

GREENBAYBOOYAH

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Booyahisastick-to-your-ribschickenandbeefsoupthatdrawscrowdsallacrossnortheastWisconsin.Forasouploadedwithmeatyflavorsandheartyvegetables,weneededtoscaledownGreenBay’sbig-batchrecipes.Webrownedbeefshortribsandbone-inchickenthighsfirsttodeveloptheirflavorandtocapturetheirrenderings.Trimmingtheribsoffatbeforebrowningeliminatedexcessgrease,andremovingthechicken’sskinafterbrowningalsokeptthebooyahlight.Weusedsomeoftheflavorfulfattocooktheonionsandcelerybeforepouringinchickenbroth.Withthesoup’sbrothinplace,webroughtbackthechickenandbeef,thistimeaddingthebeefbonesforthefull-bodied,silkenqualitytheirgelatinadds.Weremovedthechickenfirst,deboningandrefrigeratingitwhilethebeefcontinuedtosimmer.Oncethat,too,was

andrefrigeratingitwhilethebeefcontinuedtosimmer.Oncethat,too,wascooked,weshreddedthebeef.Afterdefattingthebroth,weaddedtheremainingvegetablesinstages.Oursmall-scalebooyahwasrich,hearty,andloadedwithtenderchunksofmeatandvegetables,andwewerehappytowelcome(small)crowdsoverforabowl.

2½ poundsbone-in,English-styleshortribs,trimmed,meatandbonesseparated2½ poundsbone-inchickenthighs,trimmed

Saltandpepper

2onions,choppedfine

2celeryribs,minced

8 cupschickenbroth

2 bayleaves

½ smallheadgreencabbage,coredandshredded(4cups)

1(28-ounce)candicedtomatoes

8ouncesrutabaga,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces

GREENBAYBOOYAH

SERVES8TO10

Thebonesideofashortribisespeciallyfattyandrequiresthemosttrimming.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1poundrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces

3carrots,peeledandsliced¼inchthick

1 cupfrozenpeas

1 tablespoonlemonjuice

1.Patbeefandchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Brownbeefonallsides,about10minutes;transfertoplate.Cookchickenuntilbrownedallover,about10minutes;transfertoplate.Whenchickeniscoolenoughtohandle,removeanddiscardskin.

2.Pouroffallbut1½teaspoonsfatfrompot.Addonionsandceleryandcookovermediumheatuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirinbrothandbayleaves,scrapingupanybrownedbits.Addbeef,beefbones,andchickenandbringtoboil.

3.Reduceheattolowandsimmer,covered,untilchickenregisters175degrees,about30minutes.Transferchickentobowl.Whenchickeniscoolenoughtohandle,shredintobite-sizepieces,discardingbones.Coverchickenandrefrigerate.Continuetosimmerstewuntilbeefistender,about1¼hourslonger.Transferbeeftoplate.Whencoolenoughtohandle,shredintobite-sizepieces,discardingfat.Removebeefbonesandbayleaves.Strainbroththroughfine-meshstrainer;discardsolids.Allowliquidtosettle,about5minutes,thenskimofffatandreturnliquidtopot.

4.Addshreddedbeef,cabbage,tomatoes,rutabaga,1¼teaspoonssalt,and1teaspoonpeppertoliquidandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmeruntilrutabagaistranslucentaroundedges,about15minutes.Stirinpotatoesandcarrotsandcookuntilallvegetablesaretender,about20minutes.Addchickenandpeasandsimmeruntilheatedthrough,2to3minutes.Offheat,stirinlemonjuice.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.

SOUPFOREVERYONE

Booyahjustmaybetherichest,heartiestchickenandbeefsoupyou’veneverheardof—unlessyouhappentobefromGreenBay,Wisconsin,thatis.Littleknownevenintherestofthestate,booyahisbothasoupandaneventinGreenBay,madeinhugebatchesinoutdoorkettlesforfairs,fundraisers,andfamilygatherings.Onecold,slushymorningattheSuamicoUnitedMethodistChurch,justnorthofGreenBay,wefoundpeoplewereliningupforbowlsofbooyahat7:30a.m.,nevermindthe10:00a.m.starttimeorthediscouragingweather.Clearly,thesoupisacelebrationallbyitselfandworthbeingenjoyedoutsideofGreenBay—andwithouttheearly-morningwait.

KNOEPHLASOUP

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Knoephla(pronouncedNEF-la)mightnotbeawordyourecognize,butthischickenanddumplingsoupisloadedwiththewarming,heartyflavorsthatseeNorthDakotansthroughtheregion’sbitterwintersyearafteryear.Forarich,meatybroth,webrownedbone-inchickenthighsandthensetthechickenaside.Wecookedchoppedonionintherenderedfat,creatingaflavorfulfondatthebottomofthepot,andpouredinchickenbroth.Weremovedtheskinfromthebrownedthighs,addedthechickentothebroth,andletour“doublestock”simmeruntilthemeatwasreadyforshredding.Fortenderdumplings,weboostedourstandardrecipeofflour,eggs,andwaterwithcreamyhalf-and-halfandaeratingbakingpowder.Wedroppeddozensofminidumplingsintothepotusingamakeshiftpastrybag:Wechilledthedoughinazipper-lockbag,snipped

usingamakeshiftpastrybag:Wechilledthedoughinazipper-lockbag,snippedoffacorner,thenpipedandcutthedumplingsintothebroth.Westirredtheshreddedchickenandsomeextrahalf-and-halfintoourfull-flavoredbrothforacreamy,homeyfinishtoasoupwewerehappytogettoknow.

4(5-to7-ounce)bone-inchickenthighs,trimmed

Saltandpepper

1 teaspoonvegetableoil

1onion,choppedfine

8 cupschickenbroth

2½ cups(12½ounces)all-purposeflour¼

teaspoonbakingpowder

1cuphalf-and-half

KNOEPHLASOUP

SERVES6

Letthebatterchillforatleast30minutesbeforeformingthedumplings.Chickenandbrothcanbemadethroughstep2andrefrigerated;reheatbeforeproceedingwithstep3.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

½ cupwater

2poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledcutinto½-inchpieces

1.Patchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.HeatoilinDutchovenovermediumheatuntiljustsmoking.Cookchicken,skinsidedown,untilwellbrowned,6to8minutes;transferchickentoplate.Removeanddiscardskin.

2.Pouroffallbut1teaspoonfatandreturnpottomediumheat.Addonionandcookuntiljustbeginningtobrown,3to5minutes.Addbroth,chicken,and1¼teaspoonssaltandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomedium-low,cover,andsimmeruntilchickenistender,about30minutes.(Atthispoint,cooledchickenandbrothcanberefrigeratedseparatelyforupto3days;reheattogetherbeforeproceedingwithstep3.)3.Meanwhile,whiskflour,bakingpowder,1teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpeppertogetherinlargebowl.Whiskeggs,½cuphalf-and-half,andwaterintoflourmixtureuntilthickbatterforms.Transferbattertogallon-sizezipper-lockbagandrefrigerateuntilreadytouse.

4.Removechickenfrompotandsetaside.Addpotatoestobrothandsimmerfor10minutes.Cut¼inchoffcornerofbagofbatter.Pipebatterintosimmeringbroth,snippingdumplingswithmoistenedkitchenshearsevery½to¾inchasextruded.Simmeruntildumplingsfloattosurface,10to15minutes,stirringoccasionally.

5.Shredchickenintobite-sizepieces,discardingbones,andaddtosoup.Offheat,stirinremaining½cuphalf-and-half.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandserve.

DUMPLINGSONTHEDOUBLE

Spooning100individualdumplingsintothesoupwastedious.Wefiguredouthowtostreamlinetheirproduction.

1.LOAD:Pourbatterintozipper-lockbag.(It’seasierifyoupropitopeninmeasuringcup.)Pressbattertowardcorner.

2.SNIP:Afterbatterhaschilled,snip¼inch—nolargerordumplingswillbetoobig—offcornerofbag.

3.SQUEEZE:Asyousqueezebatterfrombag,usekitchenshearstosnipevery½to¾inchtoformdumplings(takingcarenottocutintoplastic).

BARBERTONFRIEDCHICKEN

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

YoumayneverhaveheardofBarberton,Ohio,butfriedchickenfanaticsflockthereforatasteofthetown’sfamousfriedchicken.There,smallwholechickensarecutintoparts,breaded,andchilledfortwodaystoensurethattheshaggycoatingstaysput.FordistinctBarbertoncrunchwithouttheextendedwait,webeganbybriningbone-inchickenpieces,whichgaveusmoist,seasonedmeatinonly30minutes.Foracraggy,deeplybrownedcoating,wepulverizedcoarsepankobreadcrumbsinthefoodprocessor.Afterdredgingthechickeninflour,egg,andthenow-finepankocrumbs,wefoundthata30-minuterestwasjustenoughtimeforthebreadingtoset.TruetoBarbertontradition,weusedlard(aswellasoil)becauseofthegreatmeatyflavoritgaveourfriedchicken.Servedupwithabowlofmild,chunkyBarbertonHotSauce,ourtakeonthisAkron

upwithabowlofmild,chunkyBarbertonHotSauce,ourtakeonthisAkronsuburb’ssignaturedishwasjuicy,crunchy,andasgoodas—ifnotbetterthan—thechickenthatputBarbertononthemap.

Saltandpepper

3 cupspankobreadcrumbs

1cupall-purposeflour

3 largeeggs

1 poundlard

BARBERTONFRIEDCHICKEN

SERVES4TO6

Youcanusewingshere,buttheywillrequireonlyabout10minutesoffrying.Twocupsofpeanutorvegetableoilcanbesubstitutedforthelard.UseaDutchoventhatholds6quartsormore.ServewithBarbertonHotSauce.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Dissolve½cupsaltin2quartscoldwaterinlargecontainer.Submergechickeninbrine,cover,andrefrigeratefor30minutesto1hour.

2.Pulsepankoinfoodprocessoruntilfinelyground,about5pulses.Combine2teaspoonspepper,½teaspoonsalt,andgroundpankoinshallowdish.Combineflour,1teaspoonpepper,and½teaspoonsaltinsecondshallowdish.Beateggsinthirdshallowdish.

3.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Removechickenfrombrineandpatdrywithpapertowels.Workingwith2piecesatatime,dredgechickeninflourmixture,dipinegg,thencoatwithpankomixture,pressinggentlytoadhere.Transferchickentopreparedwirerackandrefrigerate,uncovered,foratleast30minutesorupto2hours.

4.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Setsecondwirerackinsecondrimmedbakingsheet.HeatoilandlardinlargeDutchovenovermedium-highheatto325degrees.Fryhalfofchicken,adjustingburnerifnecessarytomaintainoiltemperaturebetween275and300degrees,untildeepgoldenbrownandbreastsregister160degreesandthighs/drumsticksregister175degrees,14to18minutes.Transferchickentopreparedwirerackandkeepwarminoven.Returnoilto325degreesandrepeatwithremainingchicken.Serve.

1onion,choppedfine

1redbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andchoppedfine

2jalapeñochiles,stemmed,seeded,andminced

2 teaspoonspaprika

1garlicclove,minced

cupswater

1tablespoonlong-grainwhiterice

teaspoonspackedbrownsugar

BARBERTONHOTSAUCEMAKES2½CUPS

1.Heatoilinmediumsaucepanovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonion,bellpepper,andjalapeñosandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirinpaprikaandgarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addwater,tomatoesandtheirjuice,rice,sugar,andpepperflakesandbringtoboil.

2.Reduceheattolow,cover,andsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilthickenedandvegetablesarecompletelysoftened,about45minutes.Serve.(Hotsaucecanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

EATINGLOCAL BARBERTON,OH

TheAkronsuburbofBarberton,Ohio,isknownasthestate’s”friedchickencapital.”Forfriedchickenloverslikeus,thatrep-utationwasanirresistiblelure.Oncethere,weateourwaythroughchickendinnerswithbowlsofchunky“hotsauce”atBarberton’sfamouschickenjoints,includingtheoriginalchickenhouse,BELGRADEGARDENS.Con-ceivedbySerbianimmigrants,itopenedonJuly4,1933,andhasbeenhandeddownforgen-erationssince.Wecouldn’twaittocreateourownversion.

BELGRADEGARDENS401E.StateSt.,Barberton,OH

CHICKENVESUVIO

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ThelistofChicagorestaurantsservingto-die-forchickenVesuvioislong,andeveryonehasafavorite.Toeasilyenjoythismealathome,wemadeitaone-skilletsupper.Streamliningthisdishmeantstartingwitheasy-to-cookboneless,skinlesschickenbreasts.Afterbrowningthechickeninaskillet,wesetitasideandaddedpotatoes.Sincewehadbrokenafewtraditionsalready,wewentwithbabyredpotatoesoverthestandardrussets,becausethewaxy,firmpotatoeswouldmaintaintheirshapeandtextureduringcooking.Weaddedthespudstotheskilletcutsidedownandbuiltthesaucearoundthemastheybrowned.Garlic,oregano,andwhitewinereflectedthedish’sItalianAmericanroots,freshrosemarygaveoursauceitsassertiveherbalflavor,andchickenbrothaddedameatyboost.Whilethepotatoesfinishedbrowning,wereturnedthechickento

meatyboost.Whilethepotatoesfinishedbrowning,wereturnedthechickentotheskillettocontinuecookinginthesimmeringsauce.Oncethechickenandpotatoeswerecooked,wefinishedthesaucewithsomebutter,asqueezeoflemon,andpeas.Oursimplifiedtakeonthisrestaurantspecialtywasasgoodastherealthing—check,please!

4(6-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmed

Saltandpepper

1½ poundssmallredpotatoes,unpeeled,halved

1 teaspoonmincedfreshrosemary

cupschickenbroth

cupwhitewine

CHICKENVESUVIO

SERVES4

Weprefertousesmallredpotatoesmeasuring1to1½inchesindiameterforthisrecipe.Ifyoucan’tfindsmallredpotatoes,youcansubstitutelargerredpotatoesthathavebeenquartered.Foraspicierdish,stirin¼teaspoonofredpepperflakeswiththegarlicinstep2.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1cupfrozenpeas,thawed

2 teaspoonslemonjuice

1.Patchickendrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Heat1tablespoonoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Brownchickenwell,3to4minutesperside;transfertoplate.

2.Addremaining1tablespoonoiltoskilletandheatuntilshimmering.Addpotatoes,cutsidedown,andcookuntilgoldenbrown,about7minutes.Stiringarlic,rosemary,oregano,and½teaspoonsaltandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addbrothandwine,scrapingupanybrownedbits,andbringtoboil.Returnchickentoskilletontopofpotatoes.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmer,covered,untilpotatoesaretenderandchickenregisters160degrees,about12minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferchickenandpotatoestoservingplatterandtentlooselywithaluminumfoil.

3.Increaseheattomedium-highandcook,uncovered,untilsauceisreducedto1cup,about5minutes.Stirinpeasandcookuntilheatedthrough,about1minute.Offheat,whiskinbutterandlemonjuiceandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Poursauceoverchickenandpotatoesandserve.

FROZENPEAS,PLEASE!

IndevelopingourChickenVesuviorecipe,wecametodependonfrozenpeas.Notonlyaretheymoreconvenientthantheirfresh,in-the-podcomrades,buttheytastebetter.Intestaftertest,wefoundfrozenpeastobetenderandsweetwhilefreshpeastastedstarchyandbland.Tryingtounderstandthiscuriousfinding,welookedtothefrozenfoodindustryforsomeanswers.Greenpeasareoneoftheoldestvegetablesknowntohumankind.Yetdespite

thislonghistory,theyarerelativelydelicate;freshpeashavelittlestamina.Greenpeasloseasubstantialportionoftheirnutrientswithin24hoursofbeingpicked.Thisrapiddeteriorationisthereasonforthestarchy,blandflavorofmost“fresh”peasfoundatthegrocerystore.Thesenot-so-freshpeasmightbeseveraldaysold,dependingonwheretheycamefromandhowlongtheywerekeptinthecooler.Frozenpeas,ontheotherhand,arepicked,cleaned,sorted,andfrozenwithinseveralhoursofharvest,whichhelpstopreservetheirdelicatesugarsandflavors.Whencommerciallyfrozenvegetablesbegantoappearinthe1920sand1930s,greenpeaswereoneofthefirstamongthem.Findinggoodfrozenpeasisnothard.Allofthefrozenpeaswetriedwere

sweetandfresh,withabrightgreencolor.Sounlessyougrowyourownorcanstopbyyourlocalfarmstandforfreshpicked,you’rebetteroffcruisingupthefrozenfoodaisleforabagoffrozenpeas.

STEAKDEBURGO

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Inthe1950s,Vic’sTally-HowasDesMoines,Iowa’s,spottoseeandbeseen,andtheirsteakdeburgowasjustashotastherestaurant’sjazzscene.Thesearedfilletwasservedinaboldgarlic-herb-buttersauce,awinningcombinationthatappearsonDesMoinesmenustothisday.Thedishseemedsimple—tender,brownedbeefsmotheredinagarlickybuttersauce—butforourstostandout,thesteakneededaseasonedcrust,andoursaucehadtohavebright,richflavors.Workingwithinch-thickfillets,werubbedthemeatwithablendofdriedoregano,garlicpowder,salt,andpepper.Onceinthehotskillet,thespicestoastedandcreatedanexceptionalsearinminutes.Heatinghalvedgarlicclovesintheskilletjump-startedthesauce’srobustflavors.Theacidityofwhitewinebalancedoutwhatcamenext:butterandrichheavycream.Freshbasiland

balancedoutwhatcamenext:butterandrichheavycream.Freshbasilandoreganolivenedupthelushsauce.OurjuicySteakdeBurgoinitssignaturesaucewasburstingwiththeflavorsdinersfellfordecadesago—andwewerejustashappytoseeandbeseenenjoyingitathome.

1 teaspoondriedoregano

Saltandpepper

4(4-to5-ounce)center-cutfiletsmignons,about1inchthick,trimmed

2garliccloves,peeledandhalved

cupwhitewine

STEAKDEBURGO

SERVES4

Forevencooking,avoidpiecesfromthetaperedendofthemeat.Youcansubstituterib-eyeorstripsteakofsimilarthicknessforthefiletsmignons.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

1 tablespoonheavycream

1 tablespoonchoppedfreshbasil

1 tablespoonchoppedfreshoregano

1.Combinedriedoregano,garlicpowder,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperinsmallbowl.Patsteaksdrywithpapertowelsandrubevenlywithoreganomixture.Heatoilin12-inchskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Cooksteaksuntilwellbrownedandmeatregisters120to125degrees(formedium-rare),3to5minutesperside.Transfersteakstoservingplatterandtentlooselywithaluminumfoil.

2.Addgarlictonow-emptyskilletandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Stirinwine,scrapingupanybrownedbits,andcookuntilreducedtoabout1tablespoon,about1minute.Whiskinbutter,cream,basil,andfreshoreganoandcookforabout1minute.Discardgarlic.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste,poursauceoversteaks,andserve.

FAUXFILLET

Ifbeeftenderloinfilletsexceedyourbudget,two1-inch-thickrib-eyeorstripsteaksfashionedintosmaller“fillets”keepthisdishsomewhatwallet-friendly.

1.Cut2steaksinhalfcrosswise,creating4“fillets”ofequalsize.

2.Tiesteakstocreateevenlyrounded“fillets”similartoonescutfrombeeftenderloin.

NOWINE?NOWORRIES.

Sincefewofuswanttoopenabottleofwhitewinejusttouse¼cupforasauce,vermouth—whichismuchmoreshelf-stable—seemedasthoughitmightbeagoodalternative.Tofindout,wereplacedwhitewinewithdryvermouthinsauces—anideamadefamousbyJuliaChild.Ourtastersfoundthesaucesmadewithdryvermouthtobealittlesweeterand“moreherbal”thanthesamesaucesmadewithwhitewine,butthedifferencewassubtle.Refrigeratedvermouthwillcontinuetotastegoodforthreetoninemonths,whereaswhitewinegoessouthinjustdays.Evenifyoustorethebottleintherefrigerator,though,expecttheflavorofvermouthtoslowlydeteriorate(itwilllosearomaandcomplexity)longbeforeitactuallygoesbad.

BIEROCKS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Popularon-the-gofoodthroughoutNebraskaandKansas,bierocks(alsocalledrunsas)arefaintlysweetbunsfilledwithseasonedgroundbeef,onion,andcabbage.Hopingtohavethesebunsinhandwithouttheroadtrip,westartedwiththefilling.Leangroundbeefwasamust,asgreasewouldcompromisethedough.Webrownedthebeefandletitdrainwhilewesautéedchoppedonion.Wereturnedthebeeftotheskillet,alsostirringinchoppedcabbageandaddingacupofchickenbrothtospeedthevegetables’cookingtime.Simmeringevaporatedtheliquidandleftthebeefinfusedwiththebroth’ssavoryflavor.ShreddedColbyJackcheeseaddedacreamydimensiontothebeefwhilealsogentlybindingitforeasyforming.Bierocks’buttery,yeastedbreadissimilartobrioche,soweusedplentyofbutterandaneggtoturnoutasoft,sturdybun.

brioche,soweusedplentyofbutterandaneggtoturnoutasoft,sturdybun.Afterlettingthedoughrise,wedivideditintoballs,flattenedthem,formedsmallmoundsoffillingoneach,andpinchedthemclosed.Thebunsroseonelasttimebeforewebrushedonaneggwashandbakedthem.Thesegolden-brownbunsmaybemeantforeatingontherun,butwestayedputtosavoreverybite.

FILLING

2pounds90percentleangroundbeef

Saltandpepper

1onion,choppedfine

½ smallheadgreencabbage,coredandchoppedfine(4cups)

1 cupchickenbroth

8ouncesColbyJackcheese,shredded(2cups)

BIEROCKS

MAKES12

Thefillingforthebunscanbemade(andrefrigerated)uptoonedayinadvance.Forquickerassembly,portionthefillinginto12(½-cup)moundsbeforerollingoutthedough.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

cupwholemilk

cupwater

¼ cup(1¾ounces)sugar3½–3¾

cups(17½to18¾ounces)all-purposeflour

teaspoonsalt

1largeegg,lightlybeaten,plus1largeeggbeatenwith1tablespoonwater

1.FORTHEFILLING:Heat2teaspoonsoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Addbeef,1teaspoonsalt,and1teaspoonpepperandcook,breakinguppieceswithspoon,untilliquidevaporatesandmeatbeginstosizzle,10to15minutes.Drainmeatincolanderandsetaside.

2.Addremaining2teaspoonsoiltonow-emptyDutchovenandheatovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addonionandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiljustbeginningtobrown,about2minutes.Stirindrainedbeef,cabbage,andbroth.Bringtosimmer,cover,andcookuntilcabbageistender,about5minutes.Uncoverandcontinuetocookuntilliquidevaporatesandmixturebeginstosizzle,5to7minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Transfertobowlandletcoolfor15minutes.StirinColbyJackandletcooltoroomtemperature.Refrigerateuntilreadytoassemblebierocks.

3.FORTHEDOUGH:Meanwhile,greaselargebowl.Line2rimmedbakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Combinemilk,water,butter,andsugarin2-cupliquidmeasuringcup.Microwaveuntiltemperatureregisters110degrees,1to2minutes.Usingstandmixerfittedwithdoughhook,mix3½cupsflour,yeast,andsaltonlowspeeduntilcombined,about30seconds.Withmixerrunning,slowlyaddmilkmixtureandsinglebeatenegguntilincorporatedanddoughcomestogether,about3minutes.Increasespeedtomedium-lowandcontinuetomixuntildoughissmoothandpullsawayfromsidesofbowl,about8minutes.Ifafter4minutesdoughlookswet,addremaining¼cupflour,1tablespoonatatime,untildoughclearssidesofbowlbutstickstobottom.Transferdoughtogreasedbowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andletriseinwarmplaceuntildoubledinsize,50to60minutes.

4.Transferdoughtolightlyflouredcounteranddivideinto12equal(½-cup)portions.Formdoughpiecesintoballs,coverwithplastic,andletrestfor5minutes.

5.Workingwith1doughballatatime(keepremainingballscoveredwithplastic),rolloutinto5½-inchround.Transfer½cuplightlypackedfilling(3ounces)tocenterofround.Usehandstopressfillingintocompactmound.Stretchedgesofdoughoverfillingandpinchtogethertoformbun.Arrange6bierocks,seamsidedown,oneachpreparedbakingsheet,2inchesapart.Coverwithplasticandletriseuntildoubledinsize,45to60minutes.

6.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento375degrees.Discardplastic,brushbierockswitheggwash,andbakeuntilgoldenbrown,22to25minutes,switchingandrotatingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Transfersheetstowirerackandletcoolfor15minutes.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Baked,cooledbierockscanbetightlywrappedinaluminumfoil,placedinzipper-lockbag,andrefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto1month.Toreheat,adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Placefoil-wrappedbierocksdirectlyonovenrackuntilheatedthrough,about10minutesifrefrigeratedor60minutesiffrozen.

KIELBASACASSEROLE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

InthehomekitchensofChicagoandfartherafield,kielbasacasseroleisago-toPolishAmericandish.Mostrecipescallforcondensedcreamofpotatosoup,butweknewusingfreshingredientswouldmakethiscasseroleevenbetter.Webrownedslicedkielbasa,heighteningitssmokynotes,anduseditsrenderingstostartoursauce.Sautéingonionsandcarawayseedsinthefatbeforestirringinflour,chickenbroth,andhalf-and-halfcreatedarich,lushupgradefromcannedsoup.Wesimmeredcutrussetpotatoesinthesauce,lettingthemsoftenbeforeaddingsauerkraut,yellowmustard,andfreshdilltoroundoutthesavoryflavors.Westirredinthebrownedkielbasaandmovedourmixturetoabakingdish,finishingitoffwithcoarsehomemadebreadcrumbsforacrunchy,goldencrust.Witheachofouringredientspartiallycooked,15minutesintheovenwasallwe

Witheachofouringredientspartiallycooked,15minutesintheovenwasallweneededtocrispupthecasserole’stopping.Withanextrasprinklingofdill,wewerehappytocallourfrom-scratchversionofthispopularmealaneasyvictory.

1½ poundskielbasasausage,halvedlengthwiseandslicedcrosswise½inchthick

1onion,choppedfineSaltandpepper

teaspooncarawayseeds

¼ cupall-purposeflour3½

cupschickenbroth

½ cuphalf-and-half

2poundsrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces

3slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,torninto1-inchpieces

1poundsauerkraut,squeezeddry(1½cups)

KIELBASACASSEROLE

SERVES8TO10

Userussetpotatoeshereforthebesttexture.Wepreferpouchedsauerkraut,soldnearthepicklesinmostsupermarkets,tojarredorcannedvarieties.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

1 tablespoonchoppedfreshdill

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Heat2tablespoonsoilinDutchovenovermediumheatuntiljustsmoking.Addkielbasaandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilspottybrown,about5minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferkielbasatopapertowel–linedplate,leavingfatinpot.

2.Addonion,1¼teaspoonssalt,½teaspoonpepper,andcarawayseedstofatinpotandcookuntilonionisjustsoftened,about3minutes.Stirinflourtocoatonionandcookfor1minute.Slowlywhiskinbrothandhalf-and-halfuntilincorporated.Addpotatoesandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilpotatoesarejusttender,about15minutes.

3.Meanwhile,pulsebread,remaining1tablespoonoil,½teaspoonsalt,and¼teaspoonpepperinfoodprocessoruntilcoarselyground,about7pulses;setaside.

4.Offheat,stirsauerkraut,mustard,2teaspoonsdill,andkielbasaintopot.Transfermixtureto13by9-inchbakingdishandsprinklebreadcrumbsevenlyovertop.Bakeuntilcrumbsaregoldenbrownandedgesofcasserolearebubbling,12to15minutes.Sprinklewithremaining1teaspoondill.Letcoolfor15minutes.Serve.

FREEZINGBROTH

Inevitably,recipeslikeKielbasaCasserolewillleaveyouwithsomeleftoverchickenbroth,butthere’snoneedtoletitgotowaste.Herearethreeideasforfreezingdifferentamountsofleftoverbroth;allcanbestoredforuptothreemonths.

SMALLAMOUNTS:Pourbrothintoicecubetrays.Aftercubeshavefrozen,removeandstoretheminzipper-lockbag.Usecubesforpansauces,stir-frysauces,andvegetablebraises.

MEDIUMAMOUNTS:Nonstickmuffintinscreateslightlylargerportions.Afterbrothhasfrozen,store“cups”inlargezipper-lockbag.“Cups”aregoodforcasserolesandbraising/steaming/poachingliquid.

LARGEAMOUNTS:Line4-cupmeasuringcupwithzipper-lockbag(itholdsbagopensoyoucanusebothhandstopour)andpourinbroth.Sealbag(doubleupifyouwish)andlayitflattofreeze.Goodforrice,gravies,soups,orstews.

KILLERKRAUTISINTHEBAG

Briny,saltysauerkrautisanessentialcomponentofourkielbasacasserole.Toseewhichvarietyofsauerkrautisbest,wetasteditfromjars,cans,andvacuum-sealedbags.Rightoffthebat,tasterspannedtheheavilyprocessed(andlong-cooked)cannedbrandsas“flaccidandflavorless”and“flat.”Jarredandbaggedbrandsarecookedless;thesegenerallyhadmorecrunchandflavor.Ourfavoritesauerkrautisthebaggedvariety,withitschewy-crisptextureandfresh,vinegarykick.

PORKCHOPCASSEROLE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

EveryMidwesternhomecookworthhisorhersalthasahostofcasserolerecipesonhand,readytoturnoutacrowd-pleasingmealatamoment’snotice.Porkchopcasserolehasallthetrappingsofarustic,stick-to-your-bonesfeast,butwiththeeaseofaweeknightmeal.Bone-inblade-cutporkchopswereourchopofchoicefortheirflavor-buildingfat.Weremovedthebones,brownedthechops,slicedtheminhalf,andarrangedtheminabakingdish.Wewantedarich,roux-basedsauce,sowesautéedslicedcabbage,carrots,andoniontodriveawaymoisture.Robustherbs,flour,whitewine,andheavycreamfinishedthethicksauce,whichthinnedintheovenasthechopsandvegetablesshedliquid.Foracrunchy,savorycrumbtopping,weprocessedheartywhitebreadwithParmesan,butter,andsage.Wekeptthecrumbsonstandbyasthecasserole

Parmesan,butter,andsage.Wekeptthecrumbsonstandbyasthecasserolebaked,coveredwithaluminumfoil,foranhour.Wethenrampeduptheheat,removedthefoil,andletthesurfacedryout,addingthecrumbswith15minutesleftintheoven.Ourherb-fleckedcasseroleboastedflavorfulchopssurroundedbytendervegetablesandafull-bodiedsaucethattiedthewholedishtogether.

4slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,torninto1-inchpieces

1ounceParmesancheese,grated(½cup)

2tablespoonschoppedfreshsageSaltandpepperSaltandpepper

4(8-to10-ounce)bone-inblade-cutporkchops,about1inchthick,bonesremoved,trimmed

1headgreencabbage(2pounds),coredandsliced½inchthick

4carrots,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces

1onion,halvedandslicedthin

PORKCHOPCASSEROLE

SERVES6

Thechopscanfitinthepotinonebatch.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 tablespoonmincedfreshthyme

cupdrywhitewine

cupheavycream

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Pulsebread,Parmesan,2tablespoonsbutter,1tablespoonsage,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperinfoodprocessoruntilcoarselyground,about8pulses;setaside.Patchopsdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Meltremaining2tablespoonsbutterinDutchovenovermedium-highheat.Addchopsandcookuntilwellbrowned,about4minutesperside.Transferchopstocuttingboard,halvecrosswise,andplacein13by9-inchbakingdish.

2.Addcabbage,carrots,onion,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpeppertonow-emptypotandcook,covered,untilcabbageiswilted,7to10minutes.Removelidandcontinuetocookuntilonionisbrownedandmoisturehasevaporated,about5minutes.

3.Addgarlic,thyme,andremaining1tablespoonsageandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addflourandcookfor1minute.Addwineandcream,bringtoboil,andcookuntilthickened,about1minute.Pourcabbagemixtureoverchopsandcoverdishwithaluminumfoil.Bakeuntilchopsaretender,about1hour.

4.Removefoil,increaseoventemperatureto425degrees,andcontinuetocookuntiltopofcasseroleisbrowned,about15minutes.Topcasserolewithbread-crumbmixtureandcontinuetobakeuntilgoldenbrown,about15minutes.Letcasserolecoolfor15minutes.Serve.

CHOPSHOP(PING)

Manyrecipescallingforporkchopssimplyspecify“loin”chops—avagueandunhelpfulterm,sinceallporkchopsarecutfromtheloinofthepig.Butchersfurtherbreakdowntheloinintofourdifferenttypesofchop—blade,rib,centercut,andsirloin—eachofwhichcooksdifferently,dependingonthemusclestheycontain.Here’swhatyouneedtoknowtobuytherightchopforthejob.

BLADE:Cutnearthefattyshoulderend,thischop’shighcontentofmarbleddarkmeatandconnectivetissuemakesitidealforbraising.

RIB:Featuringonelargeeyeofloinmuscle,thischopisverytenderaswellasflavorfulandagoodchoiceforgrillingandpansearing.

CENTERCUT:Becausetheloinandtenderloinmusclesinthesechopsarebisectedbybulkyboneorcartilage,theydon’tlieflatandthusmakeapoorchoiceforpansearing.Savethemforthegrill,butpositiontheultraleantenderloinawayfromthefiretokeepitfromdryingout.

SIRLOIN:Thesemusclemosaicscontaintheloin,thetenderloin,andpartofthehipsection.Becausethey’regenerallytoughanddry,wedon’trecommendthem.

KANSASCITYBARBECUEDBRISKET

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

KansasCity’spitmastersarewidelyhailedfortheirsmoky,fork-tender,andabundantlyspicedbrisket.Traditionalbrisketsrequireafulldayofmindingthegrill,whichiswhymostKCbarbecuefansleavethisdishtotheexperts.Tomakeitarealityforhomecooks,welookedtoahybridtechniquethatcapturedthegrill’ssmokyflavorbeforefinishingintheoven.Avibrantcombinationofspicesnailedthetrademarkredhueandheavilyseasonedflavorswewantedinourrub.Adisposableroastingpanprotectedourspice-rubbedmeatfromcharringwhileitsmokedonthegrill.Asimplemixtureofketchup,water,molasses,andhotsauceservedasoursauce,whichwepouredintotheroastingpanbeforemovingthebrisketintotheoven.Oncethebrisketregistered195degrees,weturnedofftheovenandletthemeatabsorbsomeofthesurrounding

degrees,weturnedofftheovenandletthemeatabsorbsomeofthesurroundingliquid,creatingaperfectlytendertextureastheovengraduallycooled.Thisforgivingcookingtechniqueseemedtailor-madeforentertaining—perfect,sincewecouldn’twaittoshareourjuicybrisketwitheveryoneweknow.

tablespoonspaprika

tablespoonspackedbrownsugar

1 tablespoonchilipowder

1 tablespoonpepper

2 teaspoonssalt

1 teaspoongranulatedgarlic

1(5-to6-pound)beefbrisket,flatcut,fattrimmedto¼inch

cupswoodchips,soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrained

KANSASCITYBARBECUEDBRISKET

SERVES8TO10

Tousewoodchunkswhenusingacharcoalgrill,substitutetwomediumchunks,soakedinwaterfor1hour,forthewoodchippacket.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 cupketchup

1 cupwater

3 tablespoonsmolasses

1.Combinepaprika,sugar,chilipowder,pepper,salt,granulatedgarlic,andonionpowderinsmallbowl.Cut½-inchcrosshatchpatternthroughbrisketfatcap,¼inchdeep.Rubbrisketwithspicemixture.Wrapbrisketinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast6hoursorupto24hours.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.

2A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventhalfway.Lightlargechimneystarterfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(6quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyoverhalfofgrill.Placewoodchippacketoncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketoverprimaryburner.Turnallburnerstohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about15minutes.Leaveprimaryburneronhighandturnoffotherburners.

3.Patbrisketdrywithpapertowelsandtransfertodisposablepan.Setpanwithbrisketoncoolersideofgrillandcook,covered(positionlidventoverbrisketifusingcharcoal),for2hours.

4.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Whiskketchup,water,molasses,andhotsaucetogetherinbowlandpouroverbrisket.Coverpantightlywithfoilandtransfertooven.Cookuntilbrisketregisters195degrees,2½to3hours.Turnoffheatandletbrisketrestinovenfor1hour.

5.Transferbriskettocarvingboard.Skimfatfromsauce.Slicebrisketagainstgraininto¼-inch-thickslices.Servewithsauce.

SMOKE,BRAISE,REST

Toturnthisnotoriouslytoughcutintojuicy,tenderbarbecue,wedevisedahybridbarbecue-braisingmethodthatendedwithanhourofrestingintheoven.

1.Placewoodchippacketoverhotcoals(orgasgrill’sprimaryburner)toimpartsmokyflavor.Usedisposablealuminumroastingpan,whichcatchescookingjuicesyetletsbrisketdevelopsmokychar.

2.Addsauce,coverpan,andputitinoven.Themoistcookingenvironmentefficientlytenderizesbrisket.

3.Afterbraisingbrisket,leavemeatinturned-offoventorelaxandfullytenderize.

KANSASCITYSTICKYRIBS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Forbarbecuefanswholiketogettheirhandsdirty,KansasCitystickyribsarejusttheticket.Hopingtobringthesmokyflavor,tendermeat,andsignaturestickybarbecuesaucehomewithouthoursbythegrill,wefocusedonkeepingtheribsmoistwhilespeedinguptheircookingtime.AfterrubbingarackofSt.Louis–stylespareribswithaspicyblendofpaprika,brownsugar,salt,pepper,andcayenne,wereadiedourgrill.Woodchipsgavetheribsgreatsmokyflavor,andwekeptthemeatmoistbycapturingtheescapingsteamwithasheetofaluminumfoilplaceddirectlyontopoftheribs.Evenonthecoolersideofthegrill,theribsstilldevelopedanicecrustyexterior.Afterspreadingonathickcoatingofourhomemadebarbecuesauce,wewrappedtheribstightlyinfoiltopreventthesaucefromcharring,addedmorehotcoalsandwoodchips,andlet

preventthesaucefromcharring,addedmorehotcoalsandwoodchips,andlettheribscookforafinalhour.Moresaucebrushedonbeforeservingaddedafinallayerofflavor.Smotheredinfinger-licking,stickybarbecuesauceandtenderascanbe,ourribshadallthequalitiesofgreatKansasCitybarbecue,butinourownbackyard.

3 tablespoonspaprika

2 tablespoonsbrownsugar

1 tablespoonsalt

1 tablespoonpepper

2(2½-to3-pound)fullracksporkspareribs,trimmedofanylargepiecesoffatandmembraneremoved

(13by9-inch)disposablealuminumroasting

KANSASCITYSTICKYRIBS

SERVES4TO6

WelikeSt.Louis–styleracks,butifyoucan’tfindthem,babybackribswillworkfine.IfyouwanttopairtheribswithasideofSmokyKansasCityBarbecueBeans.

pan(ifusingcharcoal)

1onion,choppedfine

Saltandpepper

4 cupschickenbroth

1 cuprootbeer

1 cupcidervinegar

1 cupdarkcornsyrup

cupmolasses

cuptomatopaste

cupketchup

2 tablespoonsbrownmustard

teaspoonliquidsmoke

1.FORTHERIBS:Combinepaprika,sugar,salt,pepper,andcayenneinbowl.Patribsdrywithpapertowelsandrubevenlywithspicemixture.Wrapribsinplasticwrapandletsitatroomtemperatureforatleast1hour,orrefrigerateforupto24hours.(Ifrefrigerated,letsitatroomtemperaturefor1hourbeforegrilling.)Using2largepiecesofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrapsoakedchipsin2foilpacketsandcutseveralventholesintop.

2.FORTHESAUCE:Meanwhile,heatoilinlargesaucepanovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonionandpinchsaltandcookuntilsoftened,5to7minutes.Whiskinbroth,rootbeer,vinegar,cornsyrup,molasses,tomatopaste,ketchup,mustard,hotsauce,andgarlicpowder.Bringsaucetosimmerandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilreducedto4cups,about1hour.Offheat,stirinliquidsmoke.Letsaucecooltoroomtemperature.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Measureout1cupbarbecuesauceforcooking;setasideremainingsauceforserving.(Saucecanberefrigeratedforupto4days.)3A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventhalfwayandplacedisposablepanon1sideofgrill.Lightlargechimneystarterthree-quartersfullwithcharcoalbriquettes(4½quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourintosteeplybankedpileagainstsideofgrill(oppositedisposablepan).Place1woodchippacketoncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Removecookinggrateandplacewoodchippacketdirectlyonprimaryburner.Setcookinggrateinplace,turnallburnerstohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about15minutes.Turnprimaryburnertomedium-highandturnoffotherburner(s).(Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrilltemperaturearound325degrees.)4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Unwrapribsandplace,meatsidedown,oncoolersideofgrill;ribsmayoverlapslightly.Placesheetoffoildirectlyontopofribs.Cover(positionlidventovermeatifusingcharcoal)andcookuntilribsaredeepredandsmoky,about2hours,flippingandrotatingrackshalfwaythroughcooking.Duringfinal20minutesofgrilling,ifusingcharcoal,lightanotherlargechimneystarterthree-quartersfullwithcharcoal(4½quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourhotcoalsontopofspentcoalsandtopwithremainingwoodchippacket.Flipandrotateribsandcook,covered,for1

5.Removeribsfromgrill,brushevenlywith1cupsauce,andwraptightlywithfoil.Layfoil-wrappedribsongrillandcookuntiltender,about1hourlonger.

6.Transferribs(stillinfoil)tocuttingboardandletrestfor30minutes.Unwrapribsandbrushwithadditionalsauce.Sliceribsbetweenbonesandservewithremainingsauce.

SMOKYKANSASCITYBARBECUEBEANS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Slow-cookedbeansstuddedwithsmokybitsofbarbecuedmeatareasignaturesideatKansasCitybarbecueeateries,butfewhomecookshaveleftoverburntendsonhand.WhileweweresettingupthegrillforourKansasCityStickyRibs,anoldinsidertrickcametomind:Wecouldcookthebeansonthebottomofthegrillwhiletheribscookedabove,theirdrippingscontributingtheporky,smokytastewewerelookingfor.Westartedonthestove,establishingabaseofflavorwithcrispbacon,onion,andgarlic.Oncetheseingredientswerecookedandfragrant,weaddedthebeansandwater.Midwaythroughcooking,westirredinevenmoreflavorwithbrownsugar,mustard,hotsauce,andbarbecuesauce,lettingtheliquidthicken.Whentheribshadjustafewhoursleftonthegrill,we

pouredthebeansintoadisposablealuminumpan,covereditwithfoil,pokedholesinthefoil,andnestledthecontaineronthecoals.Astheribsfinishedcooking,thebeans’KansasCityflavorsdeepened.Withperfecttiming,ourbarbecuebeansfinishedtenderandloadedwithmeaty,smokytastejustastheribswerereadytoserve.

1onion,choppedfine

1pounddriedpintobeans,pickedoverandrinsed,soakedovernightanddrained

6 cupswater

1 cupbarbecuesauce

cuppackedlightbrownsugar

2 tablespoonsbrownmustard

SMOKYKANSASCITYBARBECUEBEANS

SERVES4TO6

ThisrecipeaccompaniesKansasCityStickyRibsandismeantforacharcoalgrill.Ifyou’recookingonagasgrill,omitstep3andfinishcookingthebeansina300-degreeovenfor2to2½hours.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 teaspoonhotsauce

1.CookbaconinDutchovenovermediumheatuntilbeginningtocrisp,about5minutes.Stirinonionandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addgarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addbeansandwaterandbringtosimmer.Reduceheattomedium-low,cover,andcookuntilbeansarejustsoft,about1hour.

2.Stirin½cupbarbecuesauce,sugar,mustard,hotsauce,and2teaspoonssaltandsimmer,uncovered,overmedium-lowheatuntilbeansaretenderandsauceisslightlythickened,about1hour.(Ifmixturebecomestoothick,addwater.)Transferbeansto13by9-inchdisposablealuminumpanandwraptightlywithaluminumfoil.Usingparingknifeorskewer,pokeholesinfoil.

3.Seestep4ofKansasCityStickyRibs.Whennewcoalsareadded,nestlepanwithbeansinsidedisposablepanalreadyingrill.Replacecookinggrateandpositionribsdirectlyabovebeans.Covergrillandcookuntilbeansaresmokyandcompletelytender,about2hours.Discardfoil,stirinremaining½cupbarbecuesauce,andseasonwithsalt.Serve.

BEANSONTHEGRILL

Ourbeansfinishcookingonthegrill,wheretheypickupsmokeandporkflavors.Here’showtolettheflavorsinandkeepthegreaseout.

1.Whenbeansaretenderandsauceisslightlythickened,transferbeansto13by9-inchdisposablealuminumroastingpan.Wraptightlyinaluminumfoilandpokeseveralholesinfoilsojuicesfromribscanflavorbeans.

2.Whenyou’rereadytoaddmorecoals,nestlepanofbeansintopanalreadyonbottomofgrill.Replacecookinggrate,makingsuretopositionribsdirectlyabovebeans.

CRUMB-COATEDBAKEDHAM

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSCrunchy,moistcrumb-coatedhamisaChristmastraditionamongSwedishAmericanfamiliesacrosstheMidwest,butgettingthecoatingtostayputwithoutturningsoggycanbeaschallengingasassemblingIkeafurniture.Hopingtosliceupahamloadedwithzestyseasoningandacrunchybread-crumbcrust,westartedwitharoom-temperaturespiral-slicedham.Settingthehamonapieceoffoilandtuckinganovenbagarounditcontainedthemoisture,andbakingitonawireracksetinsidearimmedbakingsheetleftallsidesofthehamaccessibleforglazingandcrumbing.Foraglazewithgreatcling,wecombinedbrownsugar,spicybrownmustard,andbalsamicvinegar.Drymustard,ginger,andclovesareclassicbakedhamflavorings,soweaddedthosetoo.Wekeptablendofpankobreadcrumbs,mincedfreshparsley,oil,salt,and

too.Wekeptablendofpankobreadcrumbs,mincedfreshparsley,oil,salt,andpepperatthereadyaswecoatedthehamwithourstickyglaze.Theseasonedcrumbs,pressedontothesurface,clungnicely.Whilethehambakedtoalovelygoldenbrown,westirredtogetherano-cookhotmustardsauce.Onetastesaiditall:Thishamwassogoodwedidn’twanttowaituntilChristmastoenjoyit.

1(8-to9-pound)bone-inspiral-slicedham

1turkey-sizeovenbag

1 cuppackedbrownsugar

cupspicybrownmustard

cupbalsamicvinegar

2 tablespoonsdrymustard

2 teaspoonsgroundginger

CRUMB-COATEDBAKEDHAM

SERVES12TO14

Thisreciperequiresaturkey-sizeovenbag.ServethehamwithHotMustardSauce.LeftoverhamworksperfectlyinHawaiianFriedRice.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

cupspankobreadcrumbs

teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

1.Setwirerackinaluminumfoil–linedrimmedbakingsheet.Place12-inchsquareoffoilincenterofwirerack.Sethamonfoil,flatsidedown,andcoverwithovenbag,tuckingbagunderhamtosecureit.Lethamsitatroomtemperaturefor1½hours.

2.Adjustovenracktolowestpositionandheatovento325degrees.Bakehamuntilitregisters100degrees,about2hours.(Liftbagtotaketemperature;donotpuncture.)3.Meanwhile,combinesugar,brownmustard,vinegar,drymustard,ginger,andclovesinmediumsaucepanandbringtoboilovermedium-highheat.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmeruntilreducedto¾cup,15to20minutes.Letcoolwhilehamcooks.

4.Combinepanko,parsley,oil,salt,andpepperinbowl.Removehamfromoven,removeanddiscardovenbag,andlethamcoolfor5minutes.Increaseoventemperatureto400degrees.

5.Brushhamalloverwithsugar-mustardglaze.Presspankomixtureagainstsidesofhamtocoatevenly.Bakeuntilcrumbsaredeepgoldenbrown,20to30minutes.Transferham,flatsidedown,tocarvingboardandletrestfor30minutes.Carveandserve.

3 tablespoonscoldwater

2 tablespoonsdrymustard

teaspoonsalt

cupDijonmustard

2 tablespoonshoney

HOTMUSTARDSAUCE

MAKESABOUT1CUP

Thelongerthissaucesits,themilderitbecomes.

Whiskwater,drymustard,andsalttogetherinbowluntilsmooth;letsitfor15minutes.WhiskinDijonmustardandhoney.Coverandletsitatroomtemperatureforatleast2hours.Useimmediatelyortransfersaucetoglassjarwithtight-fittinglidandrefrigerateforupto2months.

PREPARINGACRUMB-COATEDHAM

1.BAGIT:Coverhamwithovenbag,tuckingitunderhamtopreventmeatfromdryingout.Bakebaggedhamforabout2hours.

2.GLAZEIT:Removehamfromoven,liftoffovenbag,andbrushwarmhamwithbrownsugar–mustardglaze.

3.CRUMBIT:Sprinkleseasonedcrumbsonhamandpressthemontocoat.Bakeuntilgolden.

HOPPELPOPPEL

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

HoppelpoppelfrequentlyappearsonMidwesterndinermenus,andthoughweknewitwasfuntosay,wewondered:Whatwouldittastelike?RoughlytranslatedfromtheGermanwordfor“hodgepodge,”hoppelpoppelisaheartyone-skilletmeal,callingforacombinationofbrownedpotatoes,choppedvegetables,andvariousmeats,allboundtogetherwithsoft-setscrambledeggsandcheese.Cookingtheeggsandmix-insallatoncemadethevegetablessteam,preventingbrowning,sowecookedourvegetablesandpotatoesfirst.Wesoftenedchoppedonionandbellpepper,sautéingtheminbutterwithgarlic.Forthepotatoes,wewentforfrozendicedhashbrowns,findingthattheycookedupquicklyandbrowneddeeply.Webrownedthemeat—leftoverporkanddelisalami—last.Weleftthemeatandpotatoesintheskilletandwhiskedtheeggs,

salami—last.Weleftthemeatandpotatoesintheskilletandwhiskedtheeggs,onion,bellpepper,parsley,andcheddarcheesetogetherinabowlbeforesettingthemixtureinahotskillet.Transferringtheskillettothebroilerallowedtheeggstocookevenlyforaperfectlysetandeasilysliceable,deliciouseggpie.

12 largeeggs

3tablespoonshalf-and-half

Saltandpepper

1onion,chopped

1redbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andchopped

2cupsfrozendicedhashbrownpotatoes

HOPPELPOPPEL

SERVES6TO8

Usedicedfrozenhashbrownpotatoeshere(youdon’tneedtothawthem);shreddedhashbrownswillturnmushy.Ratherthanindividualthinslices,thisrecipecallsforone½-inch-thicksliceofsalami,whichyoucanaskforatthesupermarketdelicounter.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 cupscookedpork,ham,orsausage,cutinto½-inchpieces

1(½-inch-thick)slicesalami(2¼ounces),cutinto½-inchpieces

1.Adjustovenrack8inchesfrombroilerelementandheatbroiler.Whiskeggs,half-and-half,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpeppertogetherinlargebowl.

2.Melt2tablespoonsbutterinnonstickbroiler-safe12-inchskilletovermediumheat.Addonionandbellpepperandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addgarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds;transfervegetablemixturetoplate.Meltremaining2tablespoonsbutterinnow-emptyskillet,thenaddpotatoes,¼teaspoonsalt,and¼teaspoonpepperandcookuntilpotatoesaregoldenbrown,5to7minutes.Addporkandsalamiandcookuntilbrowned,about3minutes.

3.Whiskcheddar,parsley,andvegetablemixtureintoeggmixture.Addeggmixturetoskilletandcook,usingrubberspatulatostirandscrapebottomofskillet,untillargecurdsformbuteggmixtureisstillwet,about2minutes.Shakeskillettodistributeeggmixtureevenlyandcook,withoutstirring,untilbottomisset,about30seconds.

4.Transferskillettoovenandbroiluntilsurfaceisspottybrown,3to4minutes.Carefullyremoveskilletfromoven(skillethandlewillbehot)andletrestonwirerackfor5minutes.Slidehoppelpoppelontocuttingboard,cutintowedges,andserve.

FINISHINGHOPPELPOPPEL

1.UNDERTHEBROILER:Wheneggsformlargecurdsbuttopisstillwet,slideskilletunderbroiler.

2.TURNITOUT:Oncetopbrowns,moveskillettowirerack,whereresidualheatgentlycompletescookingcenterofhoppelpoppel.After5-minuterest,slideontocuttingboard.

GOETTA

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Somethingsjustgotogether:peasandcarrots,peanutbutterandjelly,eggsand...goetta?ThisGermanAmericanbreakfastitemcombinesoatsandmeatandisthecompaniontomorningeggsforfolksallacrossOhio,Indiana,andKentucky.Wejusthadtogivegoetta(pronouncedGET-ta)atry,usinggroundbreakfastsausagetostreamlineourversion.Tojump-startthesavoryflavor,webrownedchoppedonioninbutter,nextaddinggroundseasonings—sage,fennel,andallspice.Wepouredinwaterandthenusedapotatomashertoincorporatethesausageintotheflavorfulliquid.Weaddedquick-cookingsteel-cutoatsoncethepotreachedaboil,whichthickenedthemixturetoanubbyconsistency.Wetransferredthegoettatoaloafpan,chilleditforafewhours,andturneditontoacuttingboard.Slicedandfriedinoilforafewminutesperside,ourmeatygoetta

cuttingboard.Slicedandfriedinoilforafewminutesperside,ourmeatygoettahadacrispcrusttocontrastwithitscreamyinterior.Wetriedourswithalloftheusualgoettafixings—fromapplesaucetomaplesyruptoketchup—andknewoursupersavorysidecouldcompetewithanybreakfastmeatonthemenu.

1onion,choppedfine

teaspoonsgroundsage

1 teaspoongroundfennel

cupswater

1 poundbulkbreakfastsausage

1¾ cupsquick-cookingsteel-cutoats

GOETTA

SERVES6TO8

Quick-cookingsteel-cutoats(akapinheadoats)areessential;don’tsubstituterolledoats.Chillthegoettaforatleast3hoursbeforeyousliceit.Goettaisagreatmake-aheaddish:Fryasmuchasyouwant,andsavetherestforanotherday.Goettaisoftenservedwitheggs,andwelikePerfectFriedEggsinparticular.

Saltandpepper

2tablespoonsvegetableoil,plusextraasneeded

1.Grease8½by4½-inchnonstickloafpan.MeltbutterinDutchovenovermedium-highheat.Addonionandcookuntillightlybrowned,about5minutes.Stirinsage,fennel,andallspiceandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addwaterandsausageandmashwithpotatomasheruntilwaterandsausagearefullycombined.Bringtoboilandstirinoats.Cover,reduceheattolow,andsimmergently,stirringoccasionally,for15minutes.

2.Uncoverandmaintaingentlesimmer,stirringfrequently,untilmixtureisverythickandrubberspatuladraggedacrossbottomofpotleavestrailforabout3seconds,15to18minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

3.Transfermixturetopreparedpan.Smoothtopandtapfirmlyoncounter.Letcoolcompletely,thencoverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilfullychilledandfirm,atleast3hoursorupto2days.

4.Runthinknifearoundedgesofgoetta,thenbrieflysetbottomofpaninhotwatertoloosengoettafrompan.Turnoutgoettaontocuttingboard.Cutdesirednumberof½-inch-thickslicesfromloaf.Heatoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addupto4slicesgoettaandcookuntilwellbrowned,about5minutesperside.Transfertowirerackandletdrain.Repeatasneeded.Serve.(Wrapanyremaininggoettainplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto3days,orslice,wrap,andfreezeforupto1month.Tocookfromfrozen,reduceheattomedium-lowandincreasecookingtimeto7to9minutesperside.)

4 largeeggs

Saltandpepper

2teaspoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto4piecesandchilled

PERFECTFRIEDEGGS

SERVES2

WhileyoucanpairGoettawithanystyleofeggs,weliketoservefried.Whencheckingtheeggsfordoneness,liftthelidjustacracktopreventlossofsteamshouldtheyneedfurthercooking.Whencooked,thethinlayerofwhitesurroundingtheyolkwillturnopaque,buttheyolkshouldremainrunny.Tocooktwoeggs,usean8-or9-inchnonstickskilletandhalvetheamountsofoilandbutter.Youcanusethismethodwithextra-largeorjumboeggswithoutalteringthetiming.

1.Heatoilin12-or14-inchnonstickskilletoverlowheatfor5minutes.Meanwhile,crack2eggsintosmallbowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Repeatwithremaining2eggsandsecondsmallbowl.

2.Increaseheattomedium-highandheatuntiloilisshimmering.Addbuttertoskilletandquicklyswirltocoatpan.Workingquickly,pour1bowlofeggsin1sideofpanandsecondbowlofeggsinotherside.Coverandcookfor1minute.Removeskilletfromburnerandletstand,covered,for15to45secondsforrunnyyolks(whitearoundedgeofyolkwillbebarelyopaque),45to60secondsforsoftbutsetyolks,andabout2minutesformedium-setyolks.Slideeggsontoplatesandserve.

SWEDISHPANCAKES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

WhenthousandsofSwedishimmigrantssettledintheMidwestoveracenturyago,theybroughtmorethantheirculturalandreligioustraditions—theyalsobroughttheirpancakes.WorldsawayfromtheirAmericancounterparts,thesecrêpe-likepancakesaredelicate,withlacy,butteryedgesandabarelycustardymiddle.WithoutatraditionalSwedishpancakepaninourcabinet,weturnedtoahotskillet.TakingatipfromJuliaChild’scrêperecipe,weusedinstantflourforourbase,asitsabilityto“instantly”dissolvemeantlesswhisking,andthereforelessglutenformationandnoneedtorestthebatterbeforecooking.Equalpartshalf-and-halfandclubsodacreatedrichflavorandjustenoughlift.Twoeggsplustwoextrayolksuppedtherichnessfurtherwithoutanydistractingeggyflavor,and¼cupofsugaraddedenoughsweetnessforthesepancakestobe

flavor,and¼cupofsugaraddedenoughsweetnessforthesepancakestobeenjoyedplain.Withourskilletattheready,weslowlypouredbatterintoatiltedpan,swirlinguntilitcoatedthesurfaceevenly.Cookedonlyaminuteortwoperside,thesedaintypancakeswereperfectlybrowned.ForaquintessentiallySwedishexperience,weservedourpancakeswithlingonberryjam.

2cups(10ounces)instantflour

¼ cup(1¾ounces)sugar

1 teaspoonsalt

1½ cupshalf-and-half1½

cupsclubsoda

2largeeggsplus2largeyolks,lightlybeaten

SWEDISHPANCAKESMAKES15;SERVES4TO6

Thisreciperequiresinstantflour,likeWondra.Keepthepancakeswarm,covered,ina200-degreeoven.Servewithlingonberryjam,astheSwedesdo,oryourfavoritejam.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Combineflour,sugar,andsaltinlargebowl.Slowlywhiskhalf-and-half,clubsoda,4tablespoonsbutter,eggs,andyolksintoflourmixtureuntilsmooth.

2.Brushsurfaceandsidesof10-inchnonstickskilletwith1teaspoonbutterandheatovermediumheat.Whenbutterstopssizzling,pour⅓cupbatterintoskillet,tiltingpantoevenlycoatbottomwithbatter.Cookuntilgoldenbrown,1to2minutesperside.Transfertoplateandcovertightlywithaluminumfoil.Repeatwithremainingbutterandremainingbatter.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Swedishpancakescanberefrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto1month.Layercooledpancakesbetweensheetsofparchmentpaper,wrapinplasticwrap,andtransfertozipper-lockbag.Toserve,microwavestackof3pancakeson50percentpoweruntilheatedthrough,10to20seconds.

PANCAKEPRIMER

Likecrêpes,ourSwedishpancakesaremadeoneatatime.

1.Tilthot,butteredskilletandpourin⅓cupbatterinslow,steadystream.

2.Swirlbattertoevenlycoverbottomofskillet.Cookuntilpancakeappearsdry.

3.Loosenedgewithrubberspatula,grabit,andflippancake.

PANCAKESINANINSTANT

Inspiteofitsname,all-purposeflourisn’tthebestchoiceforeverytask.Instantflour(Wondraisthemostcommonbrand)isfinelyground,low-proteinflourthatdissolvesinstantly(withveryfewlumps)inhotorcoldliquidslikesauces,gravies,soups,and,ofcourse,crêpes.Thisisduetopregelatinization,aprocessinwhichtheflouriseffectivelyprecookedandthendried.Instantflourisalsousedasacoatingforfriedchickenorfish,asthetinyparticlesdistributeevenlyintothincrusts.

DILLYCASSEROLEBREAD

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

TheprideofCrabOrchard,Nebraska,LeonaSchnuelletookhomethegrandprizeatthe1960PillsburyBake-Offforthishomeyloafofchewy,herb-fleckedbread.DillyCasseroleBreadowesitssupremelysoftandairytexturetooneunusualingredient:cottagecheese.Forourownversion,webeganbymashingcottagecheesetoremoveitslargelumps,preventinglargeairpocketsfromformingduringbaking.Microwavingthemashedcurdswithonion,water,butter,andsugarhelpedmellowtheonion’sbiteandunitedtheingredients’distinctflavors.Afteraddinganeggtothismixture,weslowlyincorporatedthewetingredientsintoacombinationofflour,yeast,mincedfreshdill,salt,andbakingsoda.Weletourdillandonion–studdeddoughrise,stirredittoremovetheairbubbles,andtransferredittoasoufflédishtoriseagain.Afterthissecondrest,

bubbles,andtransferredittoasoufflédishtoriseagain.Afterthissecondrest,webakedourbreadtoadeepgoldenbrown,thenreinforceditsbrightherbalflavorwithafinalbrushofdillbutter.WehadtothankouroldfriendfromCrabOrchard—ourfreshtakeonherwinningrecipewasirresistible.

8ounces(1cup)cottagecheese

cupwater

2 tablespoonssugar

1tablespoonplus1teaspoonunsaltedbutter,softened

1 tablespoongratedonion

1largeegg,roomtemperature

2¼ cups(11¼ounces)all-purposeflour2¼ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast2½

tablespoonsmincedfreshdill

1 teaspoonsalt

DILLYCASSEROLEBREAD

SERVES8

Eithersmall-orlarge-curdcottagecheesewillworkinthisrecipe.Ifyoudon’towna1½-quartsoufflédish,youcanusealoafpaninstead.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

teaspoonbakingsoda

1.Greaselargebowland1½-quartsoufflédish.Usingpotatomasher,mashcottagecheeseuntilnolargelumpsremain.Combinecottagecheese,water,sugar,1tablespoonbutter,andonionin2-cupliquidmeasuringcup.Microwaveuntilmixtureregisters110degrees,about30seconds.Whiskinegguntilcombined.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,mix1¼cupsflour,yeast,2tablespoonsdill,salt,andbakingsodatogetheronlowspeeduntilcombined.Slowlyaddcottagecheesemixtureandmixuntildoughjustcomestogether,about1minute.Usingrubberspatula,stirinremaining1cupflouruntiljustcombined.

3.Transferdoughtopreparedbowl.Coverwithplasticwrapandletriseatroomtemperatureuntildoubledinsize,about45minutes.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Stirdoughtoremoveairbubblesandtransfertopreparedsoufflédish.Coverlooselywithplasticandletriseatroomtemperatureuntildoubledinsize,about20minutes.Discardplastic.

4.Combineremaining1½teaspoonsdillandremaining1teaspoonbutterinbowl.Bakeloafuntildeepgoldenbrown,about25minutes,rotatingdishhalfwaythroughbaking.Brushbreadwithdillbutterandletcoolindishonwirerackfor20minutes.Removebreadfromdishandletcoolcompletely,about2hours.Serve.

YEAST101

Yeastiscommonlyavailableintwoforms:instantandactivedry.Wepreferinstantyeast,alsocalledrapid-rise,becauseit’sfaster-actingandeasytouse.Itdoesnotneedtobe“proofed”inwarmwater;itcansimplybeaddedtodryingredients.Bothtypesofyeastcomeinpacketsof2¼teaspoons.Activedryyeastcanbesubstitutedforinstantyeast,althoughyouwillneedtousemore.Tocompensateforthegreaterquantityofinactiveyeastcellsinactivedry,simplyuse25percentmoreofit(forexample,iftherecipecallsfor1teaspoonofinstant,use1¼teaspoonsofactivedry).Theinversealsoapplies—useabout25percentlessinstantyeastinarecipethatcallsforactivedry.Don’tforgettodissolveactivedryyeastinaportionoftheliquid(heatedto110degrees)fromtherecipe.Thenletitstandfor5minutesbeforeaddingittotheremainingwetingredients.Yeastbeginstodieat130degrees,somakesuretheliquidisnottoohot.Yeastshouldbestoredinacoolenvironment,ineitherthefridgeorthe

freezer.Becauseyeastisalivingorganism,theexpirationdateonthepackageshouldbeobserved.

SANDTARTS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

OnceoneofAmerica’sfavoritecookies,sandtartswereintroducedtotheUnitedStatesbyGermanimmigrantsinthe19thcenturyandwereespeciallypopularacrossOhio.It’squitepossibletheyfelloutoffavorbecauserollingoutthiscookie’sfirmdoughtakesalotofmuscle.Wedecidedtofindawaytoturnoutthesebuttery,crispcookieswithouttheworkout.Forcookiesthatbakedflatandcrisp,wecutthebutterintotheflourandsugar(atechniquecalledreversecreaming)andusedafoodprocessorformixing—twostepsthateliminatedexcessairinthedough.Switchingfromtwoeggstoonewholeeggplusanextrayolkalsohelpedpreventthecookiesfromdoming.Bypassingcookiecuttersandrollingpinsaltogether,wefoundthattherich,stickydoughwaseasilyformedintoballs,rolledincinnamonsugar,andflattenedwiththebottomofagreased

intoballs,rolledincinnamonsugar,andflattenedwiththebottomofagreasedmeasuringcup.Afterafinalsprinkleofcinnamonsugar,wecarefullyarrangedslicedalmondsinthedoughtogiveourcookiestheirsignaturesanddollarlook.

1¾ cups(12¼ounces)sugar¾

teaspoonsalt

1largeeggplus1largeyolk

teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

cupslicedalmonds

SANDTARTS

MAKESABOUT3DOZEN

Bothslicednaturalalmondsandblanchedslicesworkwellhere.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento350degrees.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Processflour,1½cupssugar,andsaltinfoodprocessoruntilcombined.Addbutter,1tablespoonatatime,andpulseuntiljustincorporated.Addeggandyolkandpulseuntilsoftdoughforms.

2.Wrapdoughinplasticwrapandflatteninto1-inch-thickdisk.Transfertofreezeruntilfirm,about15minutes.Combinecinnamonandremaining¼cupsugarinsmallbowl.Breakdiskofchilleddoughinto2piecesandreturn1piecetofreezer.Workingwithflouredhands,roll1½tablespoonschilleddoughinto1½-inchball,thenrollincinnamon-sugarmixturetocoat.Placeballs3inchesapartonpreparedbakingsheets.Pressballsinto2½-inchdiskswithgreasedmeasuringcup,sprinklewithcinnamonsugar,andgarnishwithalmonds.

3.Bakecookiesuntiledgesarelightlybrowned,10to12minutes,switchingandrotatingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Letcoolfor5minutesonsheets,thentransfertowirerackandcoolcompletely.Repeatrolling,shaping,andgarnishingprocesswithremainingdoughandbakeasdirected.Serve.(Cookiescanbestoredatroomtemperatureforupto3days.)

SHAPINGSANDTARTS

Rollingandcuttingoutthissoft,butter-richdoughcanbefrustratinglymessy.Pressingtheindividualballsofdoughintothincookiesworksmuchbetter.Here’showwedoit.

1.Rolleach1½-inchballofdoughincinnamonsugar.

2.Spraybottomofmeasuringcupwithvegetableoilspray,thenuseittopresseachballinto2½-inchdisk.

3.Sprinkleeachcookiewithmorecinnamonsugarbeforedecoratingwithslicedalmondsandbaking.

KRINGLE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Wisconsin’sprizedbeersanddairyarenosecret,butinthecityofRacine,kringle—abuttery,flaky,oval-shapedDanishpastry—isking.There,bakersfollowtraditionalkringle-makingtotheletter,spendingthreedaysfolding,refolding,chilling,andrelaxingthedelicatedough.Wewonderedifwecouldshortenthisprocess.Adoughofflour,sugar,yeast,salt,butter,shortening,andsourcreamwasjusttheticket—theshorteningcreatedtenderness,andthesourcream’sacidityweakenedthedough’sglutenforaflakytexture.Werolledthedoughintoarectangle,wrappedit,andrefrigerateditforonly30minutesbeforetherealkringleconstructionbegan.Afterrollingoutthechilleddough,wespreadabutteryfillingofpecans,brownsugar,andcinnamon(easilymadeinthefoodprocessor)alongthebottomhalfofthedough.Wefoldedthestripin

thefoodprocessor)alongthebottomhalfofthedough.Wefoldedthestripinhalf,sealinginthefilling,andthenwetuckedoneendofthestripintotheother,forminganoval.Ratherthanwaitovernighttobake,wefoundthat4hourswasjustenoughchillingtime.Withhours(ifnotdays)tospare,ourkringlebakedtoabeautifullyflakygoldenbrown,makingitapastrywecouldn’twaittoshare.

FILLING

1cuppecans,toasted

¾ cuppacked(5¼ounces)lightbrownsugar¼

teaspoonsalt

KRINGLEMAKES2;SERVES16

Ifyourfoodprocessorholdslessthan11cups,pulsethebutterandshorteningintothedrymixtureintwobatchesinstep2.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2tablespoonsconfectioners’sugar

2¼ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast¾

teaspoonsalt

2 cupssourcream

1–2 tablespoonsicewater(optional)

1cup(4ounces)confectioners’sugar

2tablespoonswholeorlow-fatmilk

1.FORTHEFILLING:Processpecans,sugar,cinnamon,andsaltinfoodprocessoruntilpecansarecoarselyground,about5seconds.Addbutterandpulseuntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal,about9pulses.Transfertobowl.

2.FORTHEDOUGH:Addflour,butter,shortening,sugar,yeast,andsalttonow-emptyfoodprocessorandpulseuntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal,15to20pulses.Transfertobowlandstirinsourcreamuntildoughforms.(Ifdoughappearsshaggyanddry,stirinupto2tablespoonsicewaterasneeded.)Turnoutdoughontolightlyflouredcounteranddivideinhalf.Pateachpieceofdoughinto7by3-inchrectangleandwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigeratedoughfor30minutes,thenfreezeuntilfirm,about15minutes.

3.Line2rimmedbakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Roll1pieceofdoughinto28by5-inchrectangleonlightlyflouredcounter,about¼inchthick.Leaving½-inchborderaroundbottomandsideedges,coverbottomhalfofstripwithhalfoffilling.Brushedgeofuncovereddoughwithwater,folddoughoverfilling,andpinchseamsclosed.Shapefoldeddoughintooval,tuck1endinsideother,andpinchtoseal.Repeatwithremainingdoughandfilling.Transfertopreparedsheets,coverwithplastic,andrefrigerateforatleast4hoursorupto12hours.

4.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento350degrees.Removeplastic,brushkringleswithegg,andbakeuntilgoldenbrown,40to50minutes,switchingandrotatingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Transferkringlestowirerackandletcoolfor30minutes.

5.FORTHEGLAZE:Whisksugar,milk,andvanillainbowluntilsmooth.Drizzleglazeoverkringlesandletsetfor10minutes.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.(Kringlescanbestoredatroomtemperaturefor2days.)

KRINGLECONSTRUCTION

1.Leave½-inchborderaroundedgesof28by5-inchstripofdough.Spreadhalfoffillingoverbottomhalf.

2.Brushedgeofuncovereddoughwithwaterandfolddoughoverfilling.Pinchtocloselongseam.

3.Fit1endoffoldeddoughinsideothertomakeoval.Presstogethertoseal.

BLUEBERRYBOYBAIT

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Thereareendlesswaystomakegooduseofsummer’sfreshblueberries,butBlueberryBoyBaittakesthecakeallyearlong.Namedforthetastytreat’shabit-formingeffectonyoungmen,thiscoffeecakewonsecondplaceinaPillsburybakingcontest,andweweresureitsbalanceoftartberries,tendercake,andsweetcinnamon-sugartoppingwouldwinheartsalloveragaintoday.Forarich,flavorfulcake,wecombinedflour,bakingpowder,andsaltinonebowl,thenbeattogetherbrownsugar,granulatedsugar,andbutterinanotherbowluntilfluffy.Toformthebatter,wealternatedbeatingtheflourmixtureandmilkintothebutter-sugarmixture.Tossingtheblueberrieswithateaspoonofflourbeforefoldingthemintothebatterensuredthattheystayedsuspendedthroughoutthecake,promisingberriesineverybite.Wesprinkledanextra

throughoutthecake,promisingberriesineverybite.Wesprinkledanextrahelpingofberriesoverthecakejustbeforebakingandfollowedwithcinnamonsugarforacrunchy,sweettopping.Ourboybaitemergedgoldenbrownandpackedwithblueberriesfromtoptobottom.Forgetteenageboys—wewereallhooked.

2cups(10ounces)plus1teaspoonall-purposeflour

1 teaspoonsalt

¾ cuppacked(5¼ounces)lightbrownsugar½ cup(3½ounces)granulatedsugar

3 largeeggs

1 cupwholemilk

2½ ounces(½cup)freshorfrozenblueberries

BLUEBERRYBOYBAIT

SERVES12

Ifusingfrozenblueberries,donotletthemthaw,astheywillturnthebatterablue-greencolor.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

TOPPING

2½ ounces(½cup)freshorfrozenblueberries¼ cup(1¾ounces)granulatedsugar½

1.FORTHECAKE:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Greaseandflour13by9-inchbakingpan.

2.Whisk2cupsflour,bakingpowder,andsalttogetherinmediumbowl.Withelectricmixer,beatbutterandsugarsonmedium-highspeeduntilfluffy,about2minutes.Addeggs,1atatime,beatinguntiljustincorporated.Reducespeedtomediumandbeatinone-thirdofflourmixtureuntilincorporated;beatinhalfofmilk.Beatinhalfofremainingflourmixture,thenremainingmilk,andfinallyremainingflourmixture.Tossblueberrieswithremaining1teaspoonflour.Usingrubberspatula,gentlyfoldblueberriesintobatter.Spreadbatterinpreparedpan.

3.FORTHETOPPING:Scatterblueberriesovertopofbatter.Stirsugarandcinnamontogetherinsmallbowlandsprinkleoverbatter.Bakeuntiltoothpickinsertedincenterofcakecomesoutclean,45to50minutes.Letcakecoolinpanfor20minutes,thenturnoutandplaceonservingplatterorcuttingboard(toppingsideup).Cutintosquaresandservewarmoratroomtemperature.(Cakecanbestoredatroomtemperatureforupto3days.)

THENAMESAYSITALL

Wefoundthesourceofthisrecipeina1954editionoftheChicagoTribune.A15-year-oldgirlnamedAdrienne(akaRenny)PowellofChicagoenteredherdessert—BlueberryBoyBait—inthejuniordivisionofthePillsburyGrandNationalRecipeandBakingContest.Shewonsecondplace,whichincludeda$2,000cashprizeplusapromisetoprintherrecipeinPillsbury’s5thGrandNationalRecipescookbook.Rennynamedthecake(afamilyrecipe)fortheeffectithadonteenageboys—onebiteandtheywerehooked.

BLUEBERRIES:FRESHORFROZEN?

Therearetwotypesoffreshblueberries:tinyfield-grownberriessuchasthewildMaineblueberriesavailableforafewweeksinthesummer,andthelargercultivatedberries.Buyfreshlocalberriesforthebestflavor.Whennotinseason,youcanbuyberriesfromSouthAmerica,buttheydonothavetheflavoroffresh-pickedberries.Frozenblueberries,whicharepickedwhenfullyripeandimmediately

individuallyquick-frozen,makeagoodstand-inforfreshinmanyrecipes,andtheycostfarless.Infact,acakeorpiemadeoutofseasonwilltastebetter(andbemuchcheaper)ifyouusefrozenberries.

TOP-TO-BOTTOMBERRIES

ForBlueberryBoyBaittoworkitscharm,theberriesneedtobeevenlydistributed.Tokeepblueberriesfromsinkingtothebottom,wetossthemwithateaspoonofflour.

ST.LOUISGOOEYBUTTERCAKE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

GooeybuttercakeisacoffeehousefavoriteacrossSt.Louis,featuringrichcoffeecakeunderalayerofindulgent,silkytopping.Missouri’sbestmelt-in-your-mouthsquaresstriketheperfectbalancebetweensturdycakeandsweetcustard—abalancewewantedtoreplicateinourkitchen.Webeganwithayeasteddough,graduallyaddingbuttertothedryingredientsandlettingthedoughriseinawarmoven.Forarich,gooeytoppingwithenoughbodyforcleanslicing,wediscoveredthatalittleflour,somecreamcheese,andafewtablespoonsofinstantpuddingmixdidthetrick.Wewhippedsugar,butter,andcreamcheesetogetherbeforeaddingcornsyrup,egg,andvanilla.Structure-boostingflourandthepuddingmixwereaddedlast.Wepressedtherisendoughintoapan,thenspreadthetoppingintoanevenlayer.Ourfinishedcakewas

intoapan,thenspreadthetoppingintoanevenlayer.Ourfinishedcakewastenderbutheldupnicelybelowourperfectlysticky,custardliketopping.Eyeingtheotherinstantpuddingflavorsinourpantry,wemadeafewtweaksandturnedouttwomorebatchesofgooeybuttercake—butterscotchandchocolate—provingthislushSt.Louissnackisatreattosuiteverysweettooth.

¼ cupwarmwholemilk(110degrees)1½ teaspoonsinstantorrapid-riseyeast1½ cups(7½ounces)all-purposeflour

2largeeggs,roomtemperature

¼ cup(1¾ounces)granulatedsugar½

teaspoonsalt

TOPPING

½ cup(3½ounces)granulatedsugartablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened

ST.LOUISGOOEYBUTTERCAKE

SERVES8TO10

Besuretoremovethecakefromtheovenwhentheperimeterisgoldenbrownandthecenterisstillslightlyloose;thetoppingwillcontinuetosetasthecakecools.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

1largeegg,roomtemperature

2 tablespoonslightcornsyrup

⅓ cup(1⅔ounces)all-purposeflour

3 tablespoonsinstantvanillapuddingmix

2tablespoonsconfectioners’sugar

1.FORTHEDOUGH:Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Whenoventemperaturereaches200degrees,turnoffoven.Makefoilslingfor8-inchsquarebakingpanbyfolding2longsheetsofaluminumfoilsoeachis8incheswide.Laysheetsoffoilinpanperpendiculartoeachother,withextrafoilhangingoveredgesofpan.Pushfoilintocornersandupsidesofpan,smoothingfoilflushtopan.Greasefoil,thengreasemediumbowl.

2.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,mixtogethermilkandyeastonlowspeeduntilyeastdissolves.Addflour,eggs,sugar,vanilla,andsaltandmixuntilcombined,about30seconds.Increasespeedtomedium-lowandaddbutter,1pieceatatime,untilincorporated.Beatbatterfor5minutes,thentransfertopreparedbowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andplaceinwarmoven.Letriseuntildoubledinsize,about30minutes.Spreadbatterevenlyinpreparedpan.Heatovento350degrees.

3.FORTHETOPPING:Usingclean,drymixerbowlandpaddleattachment,beatgranulatedsugar,butter,andcreamcheeseonmediumspeeduntilfluffy,about2minutes.Reducespeedtolow;addegg,cornsyrup,andvanilla;andbeatuntilcombined.Addflourandpuddingmixandmixuntilincorporated.Portiontoppingevenlyoverbatter,thenspreadintoevenlayer.

4.Bakeuntilexteriorisgoldenandcenteroftoppingisjustbeginningtocolor(centershouldjiggleslightlywhenyoushakepan),about25minutes,rotatingpanhalfwaythroughbaking.Letcakecoolinpanonwirerackforatleast3hours.Usingfoiloverhang,liftcakeoutofpan.Dustcakewithconfectioners’sugarandserve.(Cakecanbewrappedtightlyinplasticandrefrigeratedforupto2days.)

BUTTERSCOTCHGOOEYBUTTERCAKE

Fordough,substitute¼cuppacked(1¾ounces)lightbrownsugarforgranulatedsugarinstep2.Fortopping,substitute3tablespoonsinstantbutterscotchpuddingmixforvanillapuddingmixinstep3.

CHOCOLATEGOOEYBUTTERCAKE

Fordough,replace3tablespoonsflourwithequalamountofDutch-processedcocoainstep2.Fortopping,substitute3tablespoonsinstantchocolatepuddingmixforvanillapuddingmixinstep3.

MEETMEINST.LOUIS...FORBUTTERCAKE

AsanySt.Louisnativewilltellyou,thereareactuallytwodistinctstylesofgooeybuttercake—andeveryonewetalkedtoduringarecenttwo-dayvisithadafavorite.Manybakeriesandcoffeeshopssellsquaresofgooeybuttercakethataremorelikeachewy(andmessy)barcookiethanacake.Thebaseiscakebatterandthetoppingislikecheesecake.Thesecondstyleismorelikeanold-fashionedcoffeecake,witharichyeastdoughandcustardytopping.

BUCKEYES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

InOhio,thebuckeyeiseverywhere.It’sthestatetree,sonamedbecauseitsnutsresembleadeer’seyes;theOhioStateUniversity’sbelovedmascot,BrutusBuckeye;and—ourpersonalfavorite—anirresistiblechocolate-dippedpeanutbuttercandymadetoresemblethenut.Forarichpeanutbutterballthatwouldholditsshapewhendippedinchocolate,webeattogetherpeanutbutter,meltedwhitechocolate,confectioners’sugar,andvanilla.Thiscombinationturnedsoftpeanutbutterintoamoldabledough,easilyrolledintobite-sizeballs.Oncefrozen,thepeanutbutterballswerereadyfortheirchocolatecoating.Meltedsemisweetchocolatechipswereallweneededforthebuckeyes’sturdyshell.Usingatoothpick,wepickedupanddippedeachballinthemeltedchocolate,leavingsomeofthepeanutbutterexposedforcandiesthatlookedlikereal

leavingsomeofthepeanutbutterexposedforcandiesthatlookedlikerealbuckeyenuts.Anhourintherefrigeratorsetthechocolate,formingacrispchocolateshelltopairwiththebuckeyes’bigpeanutbutterflavor.Turnsoutyoudon’tneedtoliveinOhiotobeabuckeyefan.

ounceswhitechocolatechips

cupscreamypeanutbutter

3cups(12ounces)confectioners’sugar

teaspoonsalt

2cups(12ounces)semisweetchocolatechips

BUCKEYES

MAKES4DOZEN

Donotusenaturalpeanutbutterhere.Seethesidebarsthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Microwavewhitechocolatechipsinbowlon50percentpower,stirringoccasionally,untilmelted,about1minute.Letcoolfor5minutes.Usingstandmixerfittedwithpaddle,beatpeanutbutter,meltedwhitechocolate,butter,sugar,vanilla,andsaltonmedium-highspeeduntiljustcombined,about1minute.Rolldoughinto1¼-inchballsandplaceonpreparedsheet.Freezeuntilfirm,about30minutes.

2.Microwavesemisweetchocolatechipsinbowlon50percentpower,stirringoccasionally,untilmelted,1½to2minutes.Usingtoothpick,dipchilledballsintomeltedchocolate,leavingtopquarterofballsuncovered.Returnballstopreparedsheetandrefrigerateuntilchocolateisset,about1hour.Serve.(Buckeyescanberefrigeratedforupto1weekorfrozenforupto1month.)

DOTHEDIP

Pickupchilledpeanutbutterballswithtoothpick.Dipthemintomeltedchocolate,leavingsmallportionofpeanutbutterexposed.Letchocolatesetinrefrigerator.

SEMISWEETVERSUSBITTERSWEET

What’sthedifferencebetweensemisweetandbittersweetchocolates?Legallyspeaking,thereisnodifference.Inorderforachocolatetobecalled“bittersweet”or“semisweet,”theU.S.FoodandDrugAdministrationmandatesthatitcontainatleast35percentcacao,andmanufacturersmayuseeithertermforchocolatethatmeetsthatminimum.Thatsaid,mostmanufacturersuse“bittersweet”forchocolatesthatarehigherincacao(andhencelesssweet)thantheir“semisweet”offering.Thus,“bittersweet”and“semisweet”canbeusefultermsforcomparingproductswithinonebrandbutareimpreciseacrossdifferentbrands.

1.JOJOPOTATOES,PACIFICNORTHWEST

2.HEAVENLYHOTS,BERKELEY,CA3.TICKTOCKORANGESTICKY,ROLLSHOLLYWOOD,CA4.KALUAPORK,OAHU,HI5.OKLAHOMABARBECUEDCHOPPEDPORK,MARIETTA,OK

6.TEXASCAVIAR,DALLAS,TX

7.MILLIONAIREPIE,HOBBS,NM

8.FUNERALPOTATOES,UTAH

CHAPTER4:TEXASANDTHEWEST

CrispyBeefTaquitos

BakedJalapeñoPoppers

MontereyChickenPicodeGallo

MonteCristoSandwiches

OklahomaBarbecuedChoppedPorkOklahomaBarbecueRelish

KaluaPork

Country-FriedPorkwithGravy

Oven-BarbecuedBeefBrisket

IndoorBarbecueBeefShortRibs

TexasChicken-FriedSteak

MulliganStew

NewMexicanPorkStew(Posole)

CarneAdovada

HollywoodChili

ChilesRellenosCasserole

KingRanchCasserole

TexasCaviar

WildRiceDressingDriedFruitandNutWildRiceDressingLeekandMushroomWildRiceDressing

HawaiianFriedRiceFauxLeftoverRice

Tex-MexRice

CornflakeStuffing

JoJoPotatoesRanchDressing

FuneralPotatoes

HeavenlyHots

TickTockOrangeStickyRolls

HarveyHouseChocolatePuffs

MillionairePie

Black-BottomPie

TexasBlueberryCobbler

FINDALOCALHOTSPOT

CRISPYBEEFTAQUITOS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Ifyoudon’tliveintheSouthwest,it’slikelythattheonlytaquitosyou’vehadcamefromthefreezer,whicharenothingliketherealthing:deep-friedrolledtacosfilledwithspicy,well-seasonedmeat.Forour“fromscratch”version,weneededthebeeffillingtobeloadedwithTex-Mexflavorandthetortillatostayclosedfortidyfryingandhand-heldeating.Brownedgroundbeefmixedwithsautéedonion,jalapeños,garlic,cumin,andchilipowderwentintoourfilling,andmashedpintobeans,tomatosauce,andcilantroroundedouttheauthenticflavors.Steamingthetortillasinthemicrowavemadefoldingacinch.Beforespooningthefillingontothenow-pliableshells,webrushedeggonthetopedgetoseal.Wefoldedandrolledthebottomofthetortillaoverthebeefintoatight

cylinder.Whileweassembledtheremainingtaquitos,wekeptthefinishedonesunderadamptoweltopreventcracking.Shallow-fryingwiththeirseamsagainstthebottomoftheskilletcrispedthetortillasandkeptthefillingsealedin.Foracreamycompaniontothesebeefytaquitos,wemashedavocadoswithcilantro,limejuice,andsourcreamforacool,freshdippingsauce.

TAQUITOS

1cupplus4teaspoonsvegetableoil

8ounces90percentleangroundbeef

1cupcannedpintobeans,rinsed

1onion,halvedandslicedthin

1 teaspoongroundcumin

teaspoonchilipowder

CRISPYBEEFTAQUITOS

MAKES12

Keeptheseamsideincontactwiththebottomofthepanwhilefryingtopreventthetaquitosfromunrolling.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

cupwater

3 tablespoonsmincedfreshcilantro

Saltandpepper

12(6-inch)corntortillas

AVOCADOSAUCE

2avocados,halved,pitted,andchoppedcoarse

cupsourcream

cupwater

3tablespoonslimejuice(2limes)

Saltandpepper

1.FORTHETAQUITOS:Heat1teaspoonoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Addbeefandcook,breakinguppieceswithspoon,untilnolongerpink,about5minutes.Drainbeefincolander;setaside.Mashbeanstopastewithpotatomasherorfork;setaside.

2.Heat1tablespoonoilinnow-emptyskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonionandcookuntillightlybrowned,about5minutes.Stirinjalapeños,garlic,cumin,andchilipowderandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Stirinmashedbeans,tomatosauce,water,cilantro,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepper.Stirindrainedbeefandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilmixturehasthickenedandbeginstosizzle,about10minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Transfertobowl;setasidetocool,about20minutes.

3.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Setwirerackinsidesecondrimmedbakingsheet.Wrap6tortillasincleandampdishtowel,placeonplate,andcoverplate.Microwaveuntilhotandpliable,about90seconds.Workingwith1tortillaatatime,brushedgeoftophalfwithegg.Placerowof3leveltablespoonsfillingacrosslowerhalfoftortilla.Foldbottomoftortillaupandoverfilling,thenpullbackontortillatotightenitaroundfilling.Rolltightlyandplaceseamsidedownonlinedbakingsheet.Coverwithsecondcleandamptowel.Microwaveremaining6tortillasandrepeatwithremainingfilling.(Taquitoscanbemadeupto24hoursahead,coveredwithdamptowel,wrappedtightlyinplasticwrap,andrefrigerated.)4.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Heatremaining1cupoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheatto350degrees.Usingtongs,place6taquitos,seamsidedown,inoilandfryuntilgolden,about5minutes.Flipandfryuntilsecondsideisgolden,about3minuteslonger.Transfertowirerackandplaceinoventokeepwarm.Repeatwithremaining6taquitos.

5.FORTHEAVOCADOSAUCE:Meanwhile,combineavocados,sourcream,water,limejuice,andcilantroinbowlandmashwithpotatomasherorforkuntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Coverwithplasticuntilreadytoserve.Servetaquitoswithsauce.

TRICKSTOTIDYTAQUITOS

1.Placelineoffillingonbottomhalfofeachtortilla,foldover,pulltortillataut,androll.

2.Shallow-fryrolledtaquitos,pressingseamsagainstbottomofskillettoseal.

BAKEDJALAPEÑOPOPPERS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSJalapeñopoppersareanaddictivebarsnackwithaone-twopunch:intensejalapeñoheatandacool,cheesyfilling.Poppersareusuallydeep-fried,buttomakethisrich,crunchyappetizerathome,bakingwasourbestbet.Abriefblastofheatintheovensoftenedthehalved,seededjalapeños.Aneggyolkandpankobreadcrumbsgavethefilling—aflavor-packedblendofcreamcheese,cheddar,andMontereyJack—somestability.Scallions,cilantro,limejuice,cumin,andbaconaddedcontrastingsmokeandbrightcitrusnotes.Wespoonedthefillingintothesoftenedjalapeñohalvesandbakedthemforabout10minutes,justenoughtimeforthemtodevelopatendertextureandlightlybrownedcrust.Innotimeatall,wehadspicy,creamypoppersthatputtheirdeep-friedbrethrentoshame.

deep-friedbrethrentoshame.

6 slicesbacon

12jalapeñochiles,halvedlengthwisewithstemsleftintact,seedsandribsremoved

4ouncesmildcheddarcheese,shredded(1cup)

4ouncesMontereyJackcheese,shredded(1cup)

tablespoonspankobreadcrumbs

BAKEDJALAPEÑOPOPPERS

MAKES24

Useateaspoontoscrapetheseedsandribsfromthehalvedchiles.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 largeeggyolk

2 teaspoonslimejuice

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento500degrees.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Cookbaconin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilcrisp,7to9minutes.Transfertopapertowel–linedplate.Whenbaconiscoolenoughtohandle,chopfineandsetaside.

2.Seasonjalapeñoswithsaltandplacecutsidedownonwirerack.Bakeuntiljustbeginningtosoften,about5minutes.Removejalapeñosfromovenandreduceoventemperatureto450degrees.Whencoolenoughtohandle,flipjalapeñoscutsideup.

3.Mixcheddar,MontereyJack,creamcheese,scallions,cilantro,panko,eggyolk,limejuice,cumin,andbacontogetherinbowluntilthoroughlycombined.Dividecheesemixtureamongjalapeños,pressingintocavities.Bakeuntiljalapeñosaretenderandfillingislightlybrowned,9to11minutes.Letcoolfor5minutes.Serve.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Filledandunbakedjalapeñoscanbecoveredandrefrigeratedforupto1day.Add3minutestobakingtime.

PICKACOLOR

Aredjalapeñoissimplyajalapeñothathasbeenallowedtoripenbeforeharvest.TodetermineifcolorwouldmakeadifferenceinourBakedJalapeñoPoppers,wegrilledafewofeachandhadtasterstrythemplain.Somefoundtheredjalapeñosmore“fruity”andthegreenmore“vegetal.”Still,alltastersfeltthatthejalapeñoswouldmakefinesubstitutesforeachother.Thefactorsresponsibleforachile’sheataregeneticmakeupandgrowingconditions(hot,dryconditionsusuallymakeforspicierchiles),notcolor.Butmaybeourtasterswereinfluencedbywhattheysaw,notwhattheytasted.

Tocorrectforthatpossibility,wedevisedathirdtest:Wepureedequalweightsofeachtypeofchilewithequalweightsofwaterandthenaddedfoodcoloringtomakethegreenchilemixtureappearredandtheredchilemixtureappeargreen.(Sneaky,huh?)Thistime,theresultssplitdownthemiddle:Halfofthetastersfoundthedisguisedredchilemixtureslightlyfruitierand“spicier,”buttheotherhalf,perhapsinfluencedbyitsapparentcolor,calledit“green-tasting”and“flatter.”Ourconsensus?Youmayuseredandgreenjalapeñosinterchangeably.Heatis

notdeterminedbycolor.

MONTEREYCHICKEN

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ActorDanBlockerwasfamousforplayingHossCartwrightontheTVWesternBonanza,buthealsoleftatastierlegacywhenheestablishedBonanzaSteakhouse.Amainstayonthemenu,chickenMontereyfeaturesflame-broiledchickenbreastsburstingwith“exclusiveMontereymarinade”flavorsandtoppedwithbaconandMontereyJackcheese.Forourversion,webutterfliedchickenbreastsandmarinatedtheminatangymixtureofDijon,honey,salt,andpepper.WetossedcookedbaconpieceswithpepperJackcheese(alivelieralternativetoMontereyJack)forthemeltedcheesetopping.Thechickendevelopedanicecharonthehottersideofthegrillwhiletheonionslices,brushedwiththebacon’srenderedfat,softenedandtookongreatsmokyflavoronthecoolerside.

Beforethechickenfinishedcooking,wemovedthebreaststothecoolersideandtoppedthemwiththecharredonionringsandbacon-cheesemixture.Afewminutesonthecoveredgrillmeltedthecheesetoperfection.Aspoonfulortwoofpicodegallogavethedishabright,zestyfinish,makingMontereychickenarecipewecertainlywantedtokeepinsyndication.

cupDijonmustard

cuphoney

Saltandpepper

4(6-to8-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmed

4slicesbacon,cutinto½-inchpieces

6ouncespepperJackcheese,shredded(1½cups)

4(½-inch-thick)slicesredonionLimewedges

MONTEREYCHICKEN

SERVES4

Weskewertheonionsliceswithatoothpicktokeepthemfromfallingapartonthegrill.Youwon’tneedanentireredonionforthisrecipe;youcanusetheremaindertomakePicodeGallo.

1.Whiskmustard,honey,1teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpeppertogetherinbowl.Reserve¼cuphoney-mustardmixtureforbastingchicken.Transferremaininghoney-mustardmixtureto1-gallonzipper-lockbag.

2.Workingwith1breastatatime,startingonthickside,cutchickeninhalfhorizontally,stopping½inchfromedgesohalvesremainattached.Openupbreastlikebook,creatingsingleflatpiece.Placechickeninbagwithhoney-mustardmixture,tosstocoat,andrefrigerateforatleast30minutesorupto1hour.

3.Meanwhile,cookbaconin10-inchskilletovermediumheatuntilcrisp,5to7minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowel–linedplate.Reservebaconfat.Oncecool,tossbaconwithpepperJack.

4A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventcompletely.Lightlargechimneystarterfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(6quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourtwo-thirdsevenlyoverhalfofgrill,thenpourremainingcoalsoverotherhalfofgrill.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventcompletely.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

4B.FORAGASGRILL:Turnallburnerstohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhot,about15minutes.Leaveprimaryburneronhighandturnotherburner(s)tomedium.(Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrilltemperatureof350to400degrees.)

5.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Pushtoothpickhorizontallythrougheachonionslicetokeepringsintactwhilegrilling.Brushonionsliceslightlywithreservedbaconfatandplaceoncoolersideofgrill.Placechickenonhottersideofgrill,cover,andcookuntillightlycharred,about5minutes.Fliponionslicesandchicken.Brushchickenwithreservedhoney-mustardmixture,cover,andcookuntillightlycharredonsecondside,about5minutes.

6.Removeonionslicesfromgrillandmovechickentocoolersideofgrill.Quicklyremovetoothpicksandseparateonionrings.Divideonionringsevenlyamongchickenbreasts.Dividebacon–pepperJackmixtureevenlyoveronionrings.CoverandcookuntilpepperJackismeltedandchickenregisters160degrees,about2minutes.Transferchickentoplatter,tentlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5to10minutes.Servewithlimewedges.

3tomatoes,coredandchopped

Saltandpepper

cupfinelychoppedredonion

cupchoppedfreshcilantro

1jalapeñochile,stemmed,seeded,andminced

1 tablespoonlimejuice

1garlicclove,minced

PICODEGALLO

SERVES4

WhilepicodegalloisnotpartoftheoriginalBonanzaSteakhouserecipe,wedidfinditinafewcopycatrecipes.It’sdeliciousspoonedoverourMontereyChicken.Tomakeitspicier,includethejalapeñoseeds.

Tosstomatoeswith¼teaspoonsaltinbowl.Transfertocolanderandletdrainfor30minutes.Combinedrainedtomatoes,onion,cilantro,jalapeño,limejuice,andgarlicinbowl.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.

MONTECRISTOSANDWICHES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

MonteCristosandwichesareasweet-and-savory,crisp-yet-tendertakeongrilledcheese,loadedwithallthefamiliar,cozyflavorsofagrilledham,turkey,andcheesesandwich—butwithatwist.Abatterofeggs,heavycream,sugar,drymustard,andcayenneestablishedourMonteCristocoating,givingthebreadabrowned,caramelizedexteriorwithahintofheat.Toastingthebreadfirstdrieditoutenoughtostaycrispafterthebatterdunk.Thesesandwichesareservedwithasweetdip,andstrawberryjamstirredwithDijonmustardwastheperfectblend.Spreadingsomeofthejam-Dijonsauceonthebreadcarrieditscontrastingflavorsintoeverybite.Afterwelayeredtheham,turkey,andSwissonthebreadandcoatedeachsandwichwithbatter,arrangingtheMonteCristosonapreheatedoiledbakingsheetkick-startedtheirsizzle.Tenminutesinahot

onapreheatedoiledbakingsheetkick-startedtheirsizzle.Tenminutesinahotoven(withafliphalfwaythroughforevenbrowning)wasallittooktoturnouthot,crispsandwichestopleaseeveryoneatthetable.Withadustingofconfectioners’sugarandtheextrajam-mustardsauceontheside,thisgrilled-cheese-meets-French-toastsandwichwasreadyforbrunch.

4 largeeggs

cupheavycream

2 teaspoonssugar

teaspoonsalt

teaspoondrymustard

6 tablespoonsstrawberryorraspberryjam

2 tablespoonsDijonmustard

slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,lightlytoasted

MONTECRISTOSANDWICHES

SERVES6

Trimtheslicesofmeatandcheeseasnecessarytofitneatlyonthebread.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

18thinslicesdeliSwissorGruyèrecheese

12thinslicesdeliham,preferablyBlackForest

12 thinslicesdeliturkey

Confectioners’sugar

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento450degrees.Whisktogethereggs,cream,sugar,salt,drymustard,andcayenneinshallowdishuntilcombined.StirjamandDijonmustardtogetherinsmallbowl.

2.Spread1teaspoonjammixtureon1sideofeachsliceoftoast.Layerslicesofcheese,ham,andturkeyoverjamon6slicesoftoast.Repeatwithsecondlayerofcheese,ham,andturkey.Addfinallayerofcheeseandtopwithremainingtoast,withjamsidefacingcheese.Usinghands,lightlypressdownonsandwiches.

3.Pouroilintorimmedbakingsheetandheatinovenuntiljustsmoking,about7minutes.Meanwhile,using2hands,coateachsandwichwitheggmixtureandtransfertolargeplate.Transfersandwichestopreheatedbakingsheetandbakeuntilgoldenbrownonbothsides,4to5minutesperside,usingspatulatoflip.Sprinklewithconfectioners’sugarandserveimmediatelywithremainingjammixture.

NO-FRYCRISPMONTECRISTOS

1.TOASTEDBREAD:Toastingbreadjump-startsbrowningandhelpskeepitfromturningsoggywhencoatedwithbatter.

2.SWEETBATTER:Coatingsandwichesineggbatterthatcontainsabitofsugarencouragesbrowningandcrispness.

3.HOTPAN:Preheatingoilandbakingsheetmakessandwichessizzlewhentheyhitpan;theybegintocrisprightaway.

EATINGLOCAL ANAHEIM,CA

TheMonteCristoearnednationalrecognitionwhenitappearedonthemenusofDisneyland’sBLUEBAYOUandTahitianTerracerestaurantsin1966.ThoughtheTerracehassinceclosed,theMonteCristoremainsafavoriteatBlueBayou.ButbeforeDisneyland,thissandwichwasbeingenjoyedasfarbackasthe1920s.Nooneiscertainofthestorybehindthename,butsomethinkthereisaconnectionbetweenthesandwichandfilmadaptationsofAlexanderDumas’sTheCountofMonteCristo.We’llbite.

BLUEBAYOURESTAURANTNewOrleansSquareDisneylandPark

Anaheim,CA

OKLAHOMABARBECUEDCHOPPEDPORK

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Oklahomanshaveano-frillsapproachtobarbecue.AsoneSoonerStatepitmasterconfided,“Ifyourporkissmotheredinsauce,itmeansyou’retryingtocoversomethingup.”Ahybridgrill-oventechniquepromisedtender,full-flavoredchoppedporkwithnothingtohide—andinhalfthetime.Weighinginatamanageable7poundsorso,abone-inporkbuttwasourroastofchoice.WerubbeditssurfacewithaclassicOklahomablendofbrownsugar,paprika,salt,andblackandwhitepeppers.Forstaggeredsmoking,wemadetwowoodchippacketsandlayeredthem—packet,unlitcoals,packet,litcoals.(Foragasgrill,weaddedicecubestooneofthepacketstoslowitsreleaseofsmoke.)Withourgrillequippedforextendedsmoking,weplacedourrubbedporkonthecoolersideofthegrillandcoveredit.Oncethecharandsignaturesmokyflavorwere

sideofthegrillandcoveredit.Oncethecharandsignaturesmokyflavorwereestablished,movingtheporktoahotoventurnedthemeattender.Choppedintoheartychunks,theporkwasjuicy,loadedwithflavor,and,aspromised,hadnothingtobeashamedof.(AlittleOklahomaBarbecueRelishneverhurt,though.)

2 tablespoonspaprika

Saltandpepper

1 tablespoonwhitepepper

1(6-to8-pound)bone-inporkbuttroast,trimmed

OKLAHOMABARBECUEDCHOPPEDPORK

SERVES8

Porkbuttroastisoftenlabeled“Bostonbutt”;donotuseapicnicroast.Ifyoucan’tfindabone-inroast,usea4-to5-poundbonelessroastandbegincheckingfordonenessafter1hourinstep5.Welikehickorywoodchipsforthisrecipe;avoidmesquite.ServewithOklahomaBarbecueRelishandyourfavoritebarbecuesauce,ifdesired.

1.Combinesugar,paprika,2tablespoonspepper,1tablespoonsalt,andwhitepepperinsmallbowl.Patporkdrywithpapertowelsandrubspicemixturealloverpork.(Porkcanbewrappedinplasticwrapandrefrigeratedforupto24hours.)

2.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyaluminumfoil,wrap2cupssoakedwoodchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.Repeatwithremainingchips(ifusinggasgrill,add½cupicecubestoremainingpacket).

3A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventhalfway.Placefoilpacketon1sideofgrillandcoverpacketandhalfofgrillwith3quartsunlitcharcoal.Placesecondfoilpacketontopofunlitcoals.Lightchimneystarterthree-quartersfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(4½quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourevenlyontopofsecondfoilpacket.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhot,about5minutes.

3B.FORAGASGRILL:Placebothfoilpacketsoverprimaryburner.Turnallburnerstohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about15minutes.Turnprimaryburnertomedium-highandturnoffotherburner(s).(Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrilltemperatureof275to300degrees.)

4.Cleanandoilcookinggrate.Placeporkoncoolersideofgrillandcook,covered,untilporkislightlycharredandsmoky,about4hours.

5.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento325degrees.Transfersmokedporktoroastingpanandcoverpantightlywithfoil.Bakeuntilporkistenderandpullsawayfromboneandmeatnear(butnottouching)boneregisters190degrees,2to3hours.Removefromovenandletrest,covered,for30minutes.

6.Uncoverporkandplaceoncarvingboard.Ifdesired,straincontentsofpanthroughfine-meshstrainerintofatseparator.Letliquidsettle,thenreturndefattedjuicestochoppedpork.Whenmeatiscoolenoughtohandle,pullintolargechunks.Roughlychopporkandtransfertolargebowl.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandserve.(Porkcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

½ headgreencabbage,coredandchoppedfine(6cups)1½

cupssweetpicklerelish

cupcidervinegar

teaspooncelerysalt

teaspoonwhitepepper

OKLAHOMABARBECUERELISH

MAKESABOUT4CUPS

Sincetherelishmustberefrigerateduntilitiswellchilled,werecommendmakingitwhiletheporkiscookingintheoven.

Combineallingredientsinlargebowl.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilchilled,atleast30minutes.(Relishcanberefrigeratedforupto5days.)

KALUAPORK

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

BeyondthebeachesofOahu,you’dbehard-pressedtofindanyoneservingkaluapork,theshreddedsmokedsucklingpigthat’sthecenterpieceatHawaiianluaus.There,awholepigiscookedoverafireofHawaiiankiawewoodinapitlinedwithrocksandbananaleaves.Withouteasyaccesstomostofthoseflavorbuilders,wetriedtore-createthesmoky,tropicalnoteswithcommonsupermarketitems.Porkbutt’sbalanceofmuscleandfatwouldstaymoistandflavorfulduringlow,slowcooking.Mesquiteisrelatedtokiawe,sowecreatedafoilpacketofmesquitewoodchipsforsimilarsmoke.Toreplicatetheearthy,grassyflavorgivenoffbybananaleaves,werubbedtheroastwithablendofgreentea,brownsugar,salt,andpepper.Usingboththegrillandtheovengaveusallthesmokeandtendernessofpitcookingwithoutthewait(orthedigging).

usallthesmokeandtendernessofpitcookingwithoutthewait(orthedigging).Placingtheporkinanaluminumpanandcoveringthepanwithfoilcollectedthejuicesandcontainedthesteam.Aftercapturingthemesquite’sflavorfulsmokeonthegrill,wemovedtheroasttotheoven.Soonenough,theporkwastenderascanbe,anditsbrightflavorbroughttheluauhome.

3 tablespoonsgreentealeaves

4 teaspoonskoshersalt

1 tablespoonpackedbrownsugar

2 teaspoonspepper

1(4-to5-pound)bonelessporkbuttroast,trimmed

6cupsmesquitewoodchips,soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrained

KALUAPORK

SERVES8

You’llneed10to15greenteabags.Porkbuttroastisoftenlabeled“Bostonbutt”inthesupermarket.Ifyourporkbuttcomeswithanelasticnetting,removeitbeforeyourubtheporkwiththetea.Whenusingacharcoalgrill,wepreferwoodchunkstowoodchipswheneverpossible;substitutesixmediumwoodchunks,soakedinwaterfor1hour,forthewoodchippackets.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Combinetea,salt,sugar,andpepperinbowl.Patporkdrywithpapertowelsandrubwithteamixture.Wrapmeattightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor6to24hours.Placeporkindisposablepanandcoverpanlooselywithaluminumfoil.Pokeabouttwenty¼-inchholesinfoil.Usinglargepieceofheavy-dutyfoil,wrap2cupswoodchipsinfoilpacketandcutseveralventholesintop.Make2morepacketswithadditionalfoilandremaining4cupschips.

2A.FORACHARCOALGRILL:Openbottomventhalfway.Lightlargechimneystarterthree-quartersfilledwithcharcoalbriquettes(4½quarts).Whentopcoalsarepartiallycoveredwithash,pourintosteeplybankedpileagainstsideofgrill.Placewoodchippacketsoncoals.Setcookinggrateinplace,cover,andopenlidventhalfway.Heatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about5minutes.

2B.FORAGASGRILL:Placewoodchippacketsoverprimaryburner.Turnallburnerstohigh,cover,andheatgrilluntilhotandwoodchipsaresmoking,about15minutes.Turnprimaryburnertomedium-highandturnoffotherburner(s).(Adjustprimaryburnerasneededtomaintaingrilltemperaturearound300degrees.)

3.Placepanoncoolsideofgrill.Cover(positioninglidventovermeatifusingcharcoal)andcookfor2hours.Duringlast20minutesofgrilling,adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento325degrees.

4.Removepanfromgrill.Coverpantightlywithnewsheetoffoil,transfertooven,andbakeuntiltenderandforkinsertedinmeatmeetsnoresistance,2to3hours.Letporkrest,covered,for30minutes.Unwrapand,whenmeatiscoolenoughtohandle,shredintobite-sizepieces,discardingfat.Straincontentsofpanthroughfine-meshstrainerintofatseparator.Letliquidsettle,thenreturn¼cupdefattedpanjuicestopork.Serve.(Porkcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

SOAKINGWOODCHIPS

Woodchipsaresoakedforsmokingbecausetheyproducemuchmoresmokethandrychipsdo.Toinvestigatetheeffectsofsoakingtime,wesoakedbatchesofrelativelymildoakchipsfor15minutes,1hour,4hours,and24hoursbeforesmokinghalvedchickensfor1hourandlargeporkshouldersfor2hours(wefinishedcookingtheporkintheoven)inastandardkettlegrill.Wenoticedsomethinginterestingrightaway:Afterabout2hoursofsoaking,

thechipsstartedtosaturateandsink.Atthe4-hourmark,alllayatthebottomofthebowl.Andwhetherthechipsweresaturatedornotmadeabigdifferenceinflavor.Themeatwesmokedusingchipssoakedfor15and60minutestastedniceandsmoky,butthemeatsmokedusingchipsthathadsoakedfor4and24hourstastedlike“awetashtray,”inthewordsofonetaster.Whatwasgoingonhere?Saturatedchipsproducesteamuntiltheydryout,atwhichpointtheybegin

smoking.Theculprithereisnotthesmokebutthesteam,whichcarriesmalodorousmoleculesfromthewoodtothesurfaceofthefood.Whensmokingforashortperiod,saturatedchipsproduceimpuresteamforagreaterproportionofthetotalsmokingtime,sotheoff-flavorsdominate.Inlonger-smokedpulledpork,however,tasterscouldn’tdetectadifferencebetweenporkthatwassmokedwithshort-soakedversussaturatedchips.Whenfoodisleftonthegrilllongafterthesoakedchipsstopproducingimpuresteam,anyoff-flavorsarecoveredupbytheadditionalsmoke.Thebottomline:15minutesissufficientforsoakingwoodchips—andlonger

soakingcanbeaproblem.

COUNTRY-FRIEDPORKWITHGRAVY

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSGoodcountry-friedporkoughttobeathin,tendercutofporkcoatedwithacrisp,craggyshell.Firstthingsfirst,weneededanassertive,creamygravyonhand.Onionsoftenedinbutterkickedoffitsflavor,followedbygarlic,driedsage,andpaprikaforanintense,seasonedjolt.Flouraddedbody,andmilkandchickenbrothimpartedcreamy,meatytastetocomplementthepork.AgenerousamountofWorcestershireandpeppergaveourgravyaboldfinish.Turningtothepork,webeganwithasingletenderloinsplitintofourpieces,scoringtheuncutsides’surfacesanddredgingtheporkinflourbolsteredwithcornstarch(tocreateasupercrispcrust),bakingpowder(forlightness),andboldseasonings—garlicpowder,onionpowder,andcayenne.Wepoundedtheporkthinanddredgeditagain,thistimefollowingtheflourwithadipinanegg-milksolution

dredgeditagain,thistimefollowingtheflourwithadipinanegg-milksolutionandapastymixtureoftheflourblendandmilk.Restingourbreadedporkintherefrigeratorsetthecoating.Ittookjustafewminutesforthecrusttoturngoldenwhenfryingtwopiecesatatimeinaskillet.Withitscrunchycrustandbold,creamygravy,thisbasicpieceofporkhadseriouscountrycred.

1garlicclove,minced

1 teaspoondriedsage

teaspoonpaprika

2 cupschickenbroth

COUNTRY-FRIEDPORKWITHGRAVY

SERVES4

Avoidusinglow-fatorskimmilkinthegravy.Makethegravyfirstsothecrispporkdoesn’tturnsoggywhilewaitingforit.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 cupwholemilk

Saltandpepper

2cupsall-purposeflour

cupcornstarch

2 teaspoonsonionpowder

Saltandpepper

cupwholemilk

2 largeeggs

1(1-pound)porktenderloin,trimmed,cutcrosswiseinto4pieces

1 cuppeanutorvegetableoil

1.FORTHEGRAVY:Meltbutterinmediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Addonionandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirinflour,garlic,sage,andpaprikaandcook,whiskingconstantly,untilgoldenandfragrant,about1minute.Slowlywhiskinbrothandmilkandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmeruntilthickened,about10minutes.Offheat,stirinWorcestershireandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Coverandsetaside.(Gravycanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)2.FORTHEPORK:Meanwhile,combineflour,cornstarch,garlicpowder,onionpowder,2teaspoonspepper,1teaspoonsalt,bakingpowder,andcayenneinbowl.Transfer1cupseasonedflourtoshallowdish.Whisk6tablespoonsmilkandeggstogetherinsecondshallowdish.Stirremaining2tablespoonsmilkintoremainingseasonedflour,rubwithfingersuntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal,andtransfertothirdshallowdish.

3.Patporkdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Lightlyscorebothuncutsidesofporkpiecesin¼-inchcrosshatchpattern.Workingwith1pieceatatime,coatporklightlywithseasonedflour.Placeporkbetween2sheetsofplasticwrapandpoundto¼-inchthickness;removeplastic.Coatporkagainwithseasonedflour,dipintoeggmixture,anddredgeinmilk-flourmixture,pressingfirmlytoadhere.Arrangeporkonwireracksetinrimmedbakingsheetandrefrigeratefor15minutesorupto4hours.

4.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Warmgravyovermedium-lowheat,stirringoccasionally.Heatoilin12-inchskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Fry2piecesofporkuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisp,2to3minutesperside.Drainoncleanwireracksetinrimmedbakingsheetandplaceinoven.Fryremaining2piecesofpork.Servewithgravy.

BETTERBREADING

1.SCORE:Usechef’sknifetomarkmeatincrosshatchpatternonbothsides.Thishelpsflouradhere.

2.FLOURANDPOUND:Dredgescoredtenderloinpiecesinseasonedflour,wrapinplasticwrap,andpoundto¼-inchthickness.

3.COAT:Dredgepoundedporkinflouragain,dipineggmixture,andcoatwithmoistened,seasonedflour.

OVEN-BARBECUEDBEEFBRISKET

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTexaspitmasterswilltellyouthatthesecrettoblue-ribbonbarbecuedbrisketishoursandhoursoflow,smokyheatpenetratingthebeef.Sinceourhungerforbarbecuedoesn’twavercomewinter,wewantedtore-createthosesignatureflavorsindoors.Afterwerubbedaspicy-sweetblendofbrownsugarandseasoningsontoabrisketroast,pokingitssurfacewithaforkreadiedthemeattoabsorbflavor.Wrappingthebrisketinsmoky-sweetbaconmimickedtheflavorsimpartedbywoodchipsonthegrill.Wrappedinaluminumfoil,thebrisketcookedtoafullytendertexturein4hours.Ratherthanlettingthebrisket’sflavorfulrenderingsandcookedbacongotowaste,weincorporatedthemintoaquickbarbecuesauce,brusheditoverthebrisket,andputthemeatunderthebroiler.Thesauceglazedthetop,turningthebrisketarichmahoganycolor.

broiler.Thesauceglazedthetop,turningthebrisketarichmahoganycolor.Now,withitsauthenticappearanceandrobustsmoky,seasonedflavor,wehadanindoorbrisketthatscreamedbarbecue,eveninthedeadofwinter.

BARBECUERUB

4 teaspoonspackedbrownsugar

4 teaspoonspaprika

2 teaspoonsdrymustard

2 teaspoonspepper

2 teaspoonssalt

1 teaspoongarlicpowder

OVEN-BARBECUEDBEEFBRISKET

SERVES8TO10

Youcansubstitute3½cupsofbottledbarbecuesauce,ifdesired.Youwillneedabroiler-safebakingdishhere;glass(suchasPyrex)maycrackunderthehighheat.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

BRISKET

1(4-to5-pound)beefbrisket,flatcut,fattrimmedto¼inch

1 poundbacon

BARBECUESAUCE

1onion,choppedfine

cupcidervinegar

cuppackeddarkbrownsugar

cupschickenbroth

cupketchup

4teaspoonsmincedcannedchipotlechileinadobosauce

1.FORTHEBARBECUERUB:Combineallingredientsinbowl,breakingupanylumpsofsugar.

2.FORTHEBRISKET:Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento275degrees.Massagerubintobrisketandprickalloverwithfork.Arrangehalfofbaconstrips,overlappingslightly,crosswiseonbottomofbroiler-safe13by9-inchbakingdish.Placebrisketfatsidedowninbacon-lineddishandplaceremainingbaconstripsontop,tuckingendsofstripsunderneathbrisket.Coverdishwithaluminumfoilandroastuntilforkslipseasilyinandoutofbeef,about4hours.

3.Removedishfromovenandcarefullyflipbrisketfatsideup.Replacefoilandreturnbriskettooven.Turnoffovenandletbrisketrestinwarmovenfor1hour.

4.FORTHEBARBECUESAUCE:Pouranyaccumulatedjuicesfrombakingdishinto4-cupliquidmeasuringcupandsetaside.Removebaconfrombrisketandchopintosmallpieces.Cookbaconinmediumsaucepanovermediumheatuntilfathasrendered,about5minutes.Addonionandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Offheat,addvinegarandsugarandstirtocombine.Returntomediumheatandreducetosyrupyconsistency,about5minutes.

5.Meanwhile,skimfatfromreservedjuicesanddiscard.Addbrothtojuicesasneededtoequal3cups,thenaddtosaucepanandreduceuntilmixturemeasures3cups,about8minutes.Offheat,stirinketchupandchipotle.Strainsaucethroughfine-meshstrainer,ifdesired.

6.Heatbroiler.Brushbrisketwith1cupsauceandbroiluntiltopislightlycharredandfatiscrisped,5to7minutes.Transfertocarvingboardandsliceagainstgraininto¼-inch-thickslices.Serve,passingremainingsauceseparately.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Rubcanbestoredforupto1month.Uncarvedbrisketcanberefrigeratedforupto1day.Toreheat,placebrisketinbakingdishcoveredwithfoilin300-degreeovenuntilwarmedthrough,about30minutes.

BARBECUEFLAVORFROMYOUROVEN

1.Tocontainspices,placebrisketonrimmedbakingsheet.Massagedryrubintomeatandpokealloverwithfork.

2.Arrangehalfofbaconstrips,overlappingslightly,crosswiseonbottomofbakingdish.Placebrisket,fatsidedown,onbacon,andplaceremainingstripsontop.

INDOORBARBECUEBEEFSHORTRIBS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

InCentralTexas,barbecuebeefreignssupreme,andmeatyEnglish-styleshortribstaketothepitlikeduckstowater.Theseblockyhunksofmeatturnsucculentandbecomeinfusedwithsmokiness.HopingtoturnouttendershortribswithaTexas-stylethick,peppery“bark”straightfromtheoven,webeganwithaflavor-packedbraisingliquid.Liquidsmokeandafewtablespoonsofinstantespresso,Worcestershire,barbecuesauce,andbrownsugarcreatedadeeplysmokybraise.Wepouredthehotliquidovertheribsandroastedthem,tightlycoveredwithfoil.Oncethebeefwasultratender,aspicyrubofchilipowder,pepper,salt,andbrownsugardeliveredthebaked-oncrustTexanscrave.Acoatingofbarbecuesaucemixedwithalittlemoreliquidsmokehelpedtherubclingwhilealsodoublinguponflavor.After30minutesina425-degree

therubclingwhilealsodoublinguponflavor.After30minutesina425-degreeoven,theribsemergeddeeplybrowned,crisp,andloadedwithboldbarbecueflavor.Inlessthan4hours,ourshortribshadallthetrappingsofdaylongpit-smokedTexasbeef,butwithminimalhands-oneffort.

4 cupswater

¾ cupbarbecuesauce,plusextraforserving¼ cupplus½teaspoonliquidsmoke¼

cupWorcestershiresauce

2 tablespoonsinstantespressopowder

Saltandpepper

6poundsbone-inEnglish-styleshortribs,bones4to5incheslong,1to1½inchesofmeatontopofbone,trimmed

2 teaspoonschilipowder

¼ teaspooncayennepepper(optional)

INDOORBARBECUEBEEFSHORTRIBS

SERVES4TO6

Themeatonashortribshrinksalotduringcooking,somakesuretobuyribsthatare4to5incheslongwhenraw.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Bringwater,¼cupbarbecuesauce,¼cupliquidsmoke,Worcestershire,3tablespoonssugar,espressopowder,1teaspoonsalt,andclovestoboilinmediumsaucepanovermedium-highheat.Removefromheatonceboiling.

2.Arrangeribsmeatsidedowninlargeroastingpan.Pourhotwatermixtureoverribs.Wrappantightlywithaluminumfoilandtransfertooven.Roastuntilribsareeasilypiercedwithparingknife,about3hours.

3.Removepanfromovenandincreaseoventemperatureto425degrees.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithfoil.Combineremaining½cupbarbecuesauceandremaining½teaspoonliquidsmokeinsmallbowl.Inseparatebowl,combinechilipowder;cayenne,ifusing;2teaspoonspepper;1½teaspoonssalt;andremaining2tablespoonssugar.

4.Placeribsmeatsideuponpreparedsheet.Brushribsliberallywithbarbecuesaucemixture,thensprinkletopsandsideswithspicemixture.Roastuntilribsarecrispanddarkbrown,about30minutes.Letribsrestfor15minutes.Serve,passingextrabarbecuesauceseparately.

SMOKEWITHOUTFIRE

Anyonewhoispassionateaboutbarbecueknowsnothingbeatstherealsmokeflavorthatcomesfromslowlysmolderingchunksofhickoryormesquite.Tomimicthatflavorindoors,weusedliquidsmoke.Mostpeopleassumethattheprocessofmakingliquidsmokeinvolvesdistastefulchemicalshenanigans,butthat’snotthecase.Liquidsmokeismadebycollectingsmokefromsmolderingwoodchipsinacondenserthatquicklycoolsthevapors,causingthemtoliquefy.Thedropletsarecapturedandfilteredtwicebeforebeingbottled.Beforewarned,thisstuffisextremelyconcentrated—afewdropsgoalongway!

ENGLISH-STYLEWITHATEXASACCENT

Shortribsarefullofcollagen,whichconvertstogelatinduringcookingandproducesatendertexture.Bonelessribswillshrivelinthetimeittakesthecollagentobreakdown,sobone-inEnglish-styleribsaretheclearchoiceforlongcooking.

EATINGLOCAL CENTRALTEXAS

TogetourbearingsonTexasbarbecuebeefribs,wewentstraighttothesource—CentralTexas.Whatdidwelearn?YouwillpaytopdollarforsmokedshortribsatsuchvauntedTexasbarbecuehauntsasLOUIEMUELLERBARBECUEandFRANKLINBARBECUE—andtheyarewortheverypenny.Thelinesarelong,too,butastheadagegoes,goodthingswillcometothosewhowait.

LOUIEMUELLERBARBECUE 206W.2ndSt.,Taylor,TX

FRANKLINBARBECUE 900E.11thSt.,Austin,TX

TEXASCHICKEN-FRIEDSTEAK

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSChicken-friedsteak—acheapcutofsteakpoundedtotenderness,coated,fried,andservedwithapepperygravy—wasoncedescribedbyDallasnewspapercolumnistJerryFlemmonsasthefoodthatbest“definestheTexascharacter.”ForCFS(itsnicknameinTexasdiners)withgreatfriedtextureandseasonedheat,beefflapmeatwasourcutofchoice.Poundingflourseasonedwithgarlicpowder,onionpowder,andcayenneintothescoredmeatbroughtitsmoisturetothesurface,preventingasoggycrust.Bakingpowderlightenedthecoating’stexture,andcornstarchmaximizeditscrispness.Dredgingthenow-thinsteaksthroughtheseasonedflour,beateneggs,andanadhesivepasteoftheflourblendmixedwithmilkpromisedasurfacethatclungandstayedcrunchy.Just15minutesintherefrigeratorsetthecrust,andafterareinforcingdredgeinthe

minutesintherefrigeratorsetthecrust,andafterareinforcingdredgeinthemilk-flourmixture,ashallowfryproducedtheTexas-caliberCFSwewerehopingfor.Acreamy,butter-basedgravyperfectlycomplementedthecrunchy,saltychicken-friedsteaks.

cupschickenbroth

cupswholemilk

teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

TEXASCHICKEN-FRIEDSTEAK

SERVES4

Avoidusinglow-fatorskimmilkinthegravy.Sirloinsteaktipsareoftensoldasflapmeat.Weprefertobuyawhole1-poundsteakandcutourownsteaktips.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

3½ cupsall-purposeflour½

cupcornstarch

1 tablespoongarlicpowder

1 tablespoononionpowder

Saltandpepper

4 largeeggs

cupwholemilk

4(4-ounce)sirloinsteaktips

cupspeanutorvegetableoil

1.FORTHEGRAVY:Meltbutterin12-inchskilletovermediumheat.Stirinflourandgarlicpowderandcookuntilgolden,about2minutes.Slowlywhiskinbroth,milk,salt,andpepperandsimmeruntilthickened,about5minutes.Coverandsetaside.(Cooledgravycanberefrigeratedforupto2days.)2.FORTHESTEAK:Whiskflour,cornstarch,garlicpowder,onionpowder,bakingpowder,2teaspoonspepper,1teaspoonsalt,andcayennetogetherinbowl.Transfer1cupseasonedflourmixturetoshallowdish.Beateggsinsecondshallowdish.Stirmilkintoremainingflourmixture,rubwithyourfingersuntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal,andtransfertothirdshallowdish.

3.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Patsteaksdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Lightlyscorebothsidesofsteaksin¼-inchcrosshatchpattern.Workingwith1pieceatatime,coatsteakslightlywithseasonedflourandpoundto⅛-to¼-inchthicknesswithmeatpounder.Coatsteaksagainwithseasonedflour,dipinegg,anddredgeinmilk-flourmixture,pressingfirmlytoadhere.Transfersteakstopreparedwirerackandrefrigeratefor15minutes;donotdiscardmilk-flourmixture.

4.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Setcleanwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Workingwith2steaksatatime,returnsteakstomilk-flourmixtureandturntocoat.Frysteaksuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisp,2to3minutesperside.Transfertopreparedwirerackandkeepwarminoven.Warmgravyovermedium-lowheat,stirringoccasionally.Repeatwithremaining2steaks.Serve,passinggravyseparately.

KEYSTOCHICKEN-FRIEDSTEAK

Poundingseasonedflourintothescoredsteaksisthefirststeptoanultracrunchycoating.Tofinishtheprocess,thesteaksgobackintotheflour,intobeatenegg,andfinallyintoaflour-and-milkmixture.Restingthesteaksgivesthecoatingtimetoadhere.

1.Tenderizemeatbyscoringat¼-inchintervalsincross-hatchpattern.Repeatonotherside.

2.Dredgeeachsteakinseasonedflour,thenusemeatpoundertoflatten.Flourhelpscoatingstick.

3.Afterfinaldredge,fry2steaksatatimeinDutchoventominimizesplatterandmess.

MULLIGANSTEW

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Mulliganstewfallssquarelyinthecategoryof“kitchensink”recipesforitshiggledy-piggledycollectionofon-handingredientspiledintoasinglepot.Hopingtobringordertothemishmashofvegetables,meats,andgrainsusedinthishearty,highlypracticalstew,wefocusedonsuperflavorfulingredients.Beefchuck-eyeroastpromisedmoist,tendermeatloadedwithflavor.Webrownedit,leavingbehindthefond(theflavorfulbrownedbits)toboostthebeefyflavorasweaddedoil,carrots,onion,andallspice.Canneddicedtomatoescontributedsubtlesweetness,andasmokedhamhockbroughtincredibleflavorandrichnesstothewater-basedbroth.Weaddedchewy,maltybarleybeforebringingthepottoasimmerandmovingittotheoven.Wechanneledthenot-so-subtleIrish“mulligan”moniker,addingpotatoesandmustardyturnipswithfreshgreen

“mulligan”moniker,addingpotatoesandmustardyturnipswithfreshgreenbeans,andleftthepotintheovenforanother45minutes.Whenthepotatoesandturnipswerealmosttenderandthebrothwasloadedwithrich,meatyflavors,choppedcabbageaddedsomeheartytexture.Aftercookingfor15moreminutes,ourmulliganstewwasreadytogo.

1(4-pound)bonelessbeefchuck-eyeroast,pulledapartatseams,trimmed,andcutinto1½-inchpieces

Saltandpepper

4carrots,peeledandcutinto1½-inchlengths(2cups)

1largeonion,chopped

cupswater

1(12-ounce)smokedhamhock

MULLIGANSTEW

SERVES8

Besuretouseasmokedhamhockforthisrecipe.Youshouldhaveabout2¾poundsofbeefaftertrimming.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

cuppearlbarley

1poundYukonGoldpotatoes,unpeeled,cutinto1-inchpieces

1(8-ounce)turnip,unpeeled,cutinto1-inchpieces

8ouncesgreenbeans,trimmedandcutinto1-inchlengths

cupscoarselychoppedgreencabbage

1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento300degrees.Patbeefdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Heat1tablespoonoilinlargeDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Addhalfofbeefandcookuntilwellbrownedonallsides,about8minutes,reducingheatifpotbottombecomestoodark.Transferbeeftoplate.Repeatwith1tablespoonoilandremainingbeef.

2.Addremaining1tablespoonoil,carrots,onion,andallspicetonow-emptypot.Cookovermediumheat,scrapingupanybrownedbits,untilonionisjustsoftened,about2minutes.Addtomatoesandtheirjuiceandcookuntilnearlydry,about8minutes.Addwater,hamhock,barley,thyme,beefandanyaccumulatedjuices,and1teaspoonsalt.Increaseheattohighandbringtosimmer.Cover,transfertooven,andcookfor1¾hours.

3.Removepotfromoven;stirinpotatoes,turnip,andgreenbeans.Cover,returntooven,andcookuntilpotatoesandturniparenearlytender,about45minutes.Removepotfromoven,thenremovehamhockfromstewandletcoolfor5minutes.Using2forks,shredmeatfromhamhock,discardingskinandbones.

4.Stircabbageandhamhockmeatintostew.Cover,returntooven,andcookuntilallvegetablesaretender,about15minuteslonger.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.

DIVIDINGACHUCK-EYEROAST

Thebesttoolforseparatinganeyeroastatitsnaturalseams(soyoucantrimawaytheexcessfat)isn’taknife—it’syourhands.Carefullyworkyourfingersintotheseamsandeasethesidesapartbeforecuttingtheroastinto1½-inchpieces.

BARLEYWORKSBEST

Whilebarleymightbemostfamiliarasakeyingredientinbeer,itisanutritioushigh-fiber,high-protein,andlow-fatcerealgrainwithanuttyflavorthatissimilartothatofbrownrice.Itisgreatinsoupsandinsalads,asrisotto,andasasimplesidedish.Barleyisavailableinmultipleforms.Hulledbarley,whichissoldwiththehullremovedandthefiber-richbranintact,isconsideredawholegrainandishigherinnutrientsthanpearlbarley,whichishulledbarleythathasbeenpolishedtoremovethebran.Thereisalsoquick-cookingbarley,whichisavailableaskernelsorflakes.Hulledbarleytakesalongtimetocookandshouldbesoakedpriortocooking.Pearlbarleycooksmuchmorequickly,makingitthebestchoiceforMulliganStew,barleyrisotto,orasimplepilaf.Youcanalsouseitasastand-infordisheswhereyoumightordinarilyuserice,suchasstir-friesorcurries.

NEWMEXICANPORKSTEW(POSOLE)

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSNewMexicanposoleisoneofthosewonderfulSouthwesternstewsthatemergedwhenMexicanandEuropeancookingtraditionscollidedintheNewWorld.Recipesforthiswarming,mildlyspicystewrangefromoversimplifiedafterthoughtstoover-the-topopuses;wewantedtostreamlinetheprocesswhilemaintainingposole’scomplexflavor.Bakingdriedanchochilesdeepenedtheirflavor,andsteepingtheminhotchickenbrothproducedanextraboost.Webrownedbonelessporkribsbeforeaddingthemtothepottouptheirporkyflavor.“Posole”isSpanishfor“hominy,”sousingthiscanneddriedcornwasamust.Browningdrainedhominyintheribs’renderedfatturneditsweet,toasty,andchewy,andreservingthecookedhominyuntiltheendpreservedthesequalities.Sautéedonionsandgarlicpureedwiththechilescreatedagentle,

qualities.Sautéedonionsandgarlicpureedwiththechilescreatedagentle,caramelizedsweetness.Wecombinedthechilepuree,broth,andpork,cookingtheribstotendernessinaboutanhour.Weshreddedtheporkandaddeditbacktothestewjustbeforeserving,alongwiththehominyandsomelimejuice.Ourrecipemadequickworkofservingaflavor-packedposole.

¾ ouncedriedanchochiles(about3chiles)

8 cupschickenbroth

2poundsbonelesscountry-styleporkribs

Saltandpepper

3(15-ounce)canswhitehominy,rinsedanddrainedwell

2onions,chopped

1 tablespoonmincedfreshoregano

NEWMEXICANPORKSTEW(POSOLE)

SERVES6TO8

Donotusestore-boughtchilipowder:Driedanchochilesmakeallthedifference.Serveposolewithslicedradishesandgreencabbage,choppedavocado,hotsauce,andlimewedges.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 tablespoonlimejuice

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Placechilesonbakingsheetandbakeuntilpuffedandfragrant,about6minutes.Whenchilesarecoolenoughtohandle,removestemsandseeds.Combinechilesand1cupbrothinmediumbowl.Coverandmicrowaveuntilbubbling,about2minutes.Letstanduntilsoftened,10to15minutes.

2.Patporkdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Heat2tablespoonsoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Cookporkuntilwellbrownedallover,about10minutes.Transferporktoplate.Addhominytonow-emptypotandcook,stirringfrequently,untilfragrantandhominybeginstodarken,2to3minutes.Transferhominytomediumbowl.

3.Heatremaining1tablespoonoilinnow-emptypotovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonionsandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stiringarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Pureeonionmixturewithsoftenedchilemixtureinblender.Combineremaining7cupsbroth,pureedonion-chilemixture,pork,oregano,½teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpepperinnow-emptypotandbringtoboil.Reduceheattolowandsimmer,covered,untilmeatistender,1to1½hours.

4.Transferporktocleanplate.Addhominytopotandsimmer,covered,untiltender,about30minutes.Skimfatfrombroth.Whenmeatiscoolenoughtohandle,shredintobite-sizepieces,discardingfat.Returnporktopotandcookuntilheatedthrough,about1minute.Offheat,addlimejuice.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.(Posolecanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

PREPPINGDRIEDCHILES

Wholedriedchilesrequiresomeadvancepreparationbutcontributemightilytothisstew’sflavor(andthatofotherSouthwesternandsouth-of-the-borderdishes).

1.Toastdriedchilestoenhancetheirearthyflavor.

2.Steepstemmed,seededanchochilesinhotbrothtosoftentheirtoughskin.

3.Pureesoftenedchileswithonionandgarlictoadddepthofflavortoposole.

CARNEADOVADA

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Texaschilimightgetmorehype,butwethoughtthatrich,under-the-radarcarneadovadadeservedourattention.MakingthisNewMexicanporkchili,withitstenderchunksofporkbuttbathedinasoulful,spicedsauce,isachallengewithoutaccesstothechilesnativetotheSouthwest.Wesetouttomimictheirflavorsusingsupermarketstaples.BrowningtheporkinaDutchovenexpelledsomeofitsfat,whichweusedtobuildthesauce.Wesoftenedchoppedonioninthefatbeforeaddingchilipowder,cannedchipotlechileinadobosauce,andmincedgarlic.Flourthickenedthemixture,andalthoughoreganoisincludedinmostchilipowderblends,weincludedthisauthenticingredientfornoticeableherbalflavor.Toreplicatethefruity,bitterqualityofdriedchiles,weplumped

raisinsincoffeeandaddedthemalongwithchickenbroth.Wepureedthismixtureintoarich,earthysauceandreturnedittothepotwiththepork.After2hoursintheoven,thecarneadovadaemergedtenderandsmotheredinbold,seasonedsauce.Limezestandjuiceandcilantroaddedabrightfinishtothisextraordinarychilithatyoucanmakenomatterwhereyoulive.

cupraisins

cupbrewedcoffee

1(4-to5-pound)bonelessporkbuttroast,trimmedofexcessfatandcutinto1½-inchchunks

Saltandpepper

2onions,chopped

¼ cupall-purposeflour½

cupchilipowder

CARNEADOVADA

SERVES6TO8

Porkbuttroastisoftenlabeled“Bostonbutt”inthesupermarket—andcomeseitherbonelessoronthebone.Ifusingbone-inporkbutt,buya6-to6½-poundroast.Whentrimmingexcessfat,leaveatleasta⅛-inchthicknessontheexterior.Servethefinisheddishoverriceorwithwarmcorntortillas.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1tablespoonmincedcannedchipotlechileinadobosauce

cupschickenbroth

1teaspoongratedlimezestplus1tablespoonjuice

1.Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Combineraisinsandcoffeeinsmallbowl.Wraptightlywithplasticwrapandmicrowaveuntilliquidbeginstoboil,1to3minutes;letstandfor5minutes,untilraisinsareplump.

2.Patporkdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Brownhalfofpork,about10minutes.Transfertoplateandrepeatwithremainingpork.

3.Pouroffallbut1tablespoonfatfromDutchoven.Addonionsandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addflour,chilipowder,oregano,chipotle,andgarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about1minute.Addbrothandraisinmixture,scrapingupanybrownedbits,andbringtoboil.Workingin2batches,transfermixturetoblenderorfoodprocessorandpureeuntilsmooth.Returnsaucetopot.

4.Addbrownedporktosauceinpotandtransfertooven.Cook,covered,untilporkisfork-tender,about2hours.Skimfatfromsauce,thenstirinlimezest,limejuice,andcilantro.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Serve.(Porkcanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

CHILES:ALOVESTORY

NewMexicanslovetheirchiles.Needproof?Readthis2005jointmemorialrequestingthatthesecretaryofstatelistthechileasthestatevegetable—nevermindthatscientistsclassifythemasafruit.Wequoteinsmallpart:“WHEREAS,massimmigrationtoNewMexicointhepastfourhundredyearshasbeenrumoredtobearesultoftheaddictivequalitiesofchile...;andWHEREAS,NewMexicansaremoreproudofthismagicalvegetablethantheyareoftheLobosbasketballteam,theroadrunnerstatebird,thebiscochito,thestate’ssunsetsoritsblueskies,combined...”Theofficialstatequestionis“Redorgreen?”Thisreferstochilepreference,andifyou’rediningoutinNewMexico,you’llbeaskeditwhenyouplaceyourorder.

BUILDINGCOMPLEXCHILEFLAVOR

Ourgoalwastodevelopcomplexityandsubtleheatinourcarneadovada—withouthavingtotoastandgrindaheapofhard-to-finddriedchiles.Intheend,wereplicatedthetasteofdriedchilesbyenhancingsupermarketchilipowderwithafewcommoningredients.

BITTERSWEET:Asurprisingcombinationofraisinsandbrewedcoffeemimicsthebittersweetcomplexityofdriedchiles.

HOTANDSAUCY:Just1tablespoonofmincedcannedchipotlechileinadobosaucegivesthesaucesmokinessandsubtleheat.

HOLLYWOODCHILI

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ThoughChasen’sRestaurantwaswellknownforitsA-listclientele—fromFrankSinatratoElizabethTaylor—theHollywoodlandmark’srich,gentlyspicedchiliwasitsmaindraw.Everybowlwasloadedwithgreenpeppers,hand-groundbeefchuckandporkbutt,andplentyofbutter.Withoutameatgrinderhandy,welookedforworkablecutsthatwouldimpartthesamestrongporkandbeefflavors.Groundbeefwasaneasyswap,andforporkthatstayedmoistandmeaty,webrownedporkchopsinbutter.Peppers,onions,andspicescookedinbuttercreatedaseasoned,flavorfulbase,andcannedchipotlechileandadobosauceaddeddepthandheat.Usingcannedcrushedtomatoesandtomatosaucespedupourprep,andweusedthesimmeringtomatomixturetofinishcookingthebrownedporkchopsandthebeef.Thechopswereperfectly

finishcookingthebrownedporkchopsandthebeef.Thechopswereperfectlytenderinanhour,soweremovedthebones,choppedthepork,andstirreditintothepotalongwithcannedpintobeans.Ourchiliwasreadytoserve,itswarmflavorsimmediatelytransportingusbacktothered-boothedrestaurantofHollywood’sbygonedays.

3poundsbone-inblade-cutporkchops,about1½inchesthick,trimmed

Saltandpepper

3greenbellpeppers,stemmed,seeded,andchoppedfine

2onions,choppedfine

cupchilipowder

HOLLYWOODCHILI

SERVES6TO8

UseaDutchoventhatholds6quartsormoreforthisrecipe.Chipotlechilescanbeveryhot:Wewearrubbergloveswhenhandlingthem.Tofreezeleftoverchileinadobosauce,transferthecontentsofthecantoazipper-lockbagandfreezeforupto3months.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

2 teaspoonsgroundcumin

1teaspoonmincedcannedchipotlechileinadobosauceplus2teaspoonsadobosauce

2(28-ounce)canscrushedtomatoes

1 cupwater

3(15-ounce)canspintobeans,rinsed

1.Patporkdrywithpapertowelsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Melt1tablespoonbutterinDutchovenovermedium-highheat.Addporkandbrownwell,about5minutesperside.Transferporktoplate.Addbeeftopotandcookovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilnolongerpink,about5minutes.Drainbeefandsetaside.

2.Returnpottomediumheatandmeltremaining3tablespoonsbutter.Addpeppersandonionsandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirinchilipowder,garlic,andcuminandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.

3.Stirinchipotle,adobosauce,crushedtomatoes,tomatosauce,andwaterandbringtoboil.Returnporkandbeeftopot,alongwithanyaccumulatedjuices.Reduceheattolowandsimmer,covered,stirringoccasionally,untilporkistender,about1hour.

4.Transferporktocuttingboard.Whencoolenoughtohandle,removemeatfrombones,discardfat,andchopcoarse.Skimanyfatfromsurfaceofchiliusinglargespoon.Stirchoppedporkandbeansintopot,returntosimmer,andcook,uncovered,stirringoccasionally,for30minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandserve.(Chilicanberefrigeratedforupto3days.)

WHAT’SAPORKCHOPDOINGINMYCHILI?

Forhislegendarychili,HollywoodrestaurateurDaveChasenusedacustomgrinderonamixofbeefchuckandporkbutt.Sincemostofushaven’tgotafancygrinder,wepairedsupermarketgroundbeefwithporkbladechopsforthesamemeatyimpact.

1.Brownbone-inporkchopsinbutterandremovefrompan.Reserverenderedfattobrowngroundmeat.

2.Afterbuildingchili’sbasestiringroundmeatandreservedchops;porkboneshelpflavorsauce.

3.Onehourlater,removecookedchops,separatemeatfrombones,coarselychopmeat,andstirintochili.

CHILESRELLENOSCASSEROLE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Makingtraditionalchilesrellenosistrulyalaboroflove.Fromroastingchilestopreparingthefillingtostuffingtofrying—ay,caramba,it’salotofwork!TomakethisTex-Mexspecialtyamoredoabledish,weconverteditsroastedchileflavor,heartybeeffilling,andcrispfriedshellintoacasserole.Leangroundbeefsautéedwithchoppedonionkickedoffthefilling,andbrowningthesmokypoblanosinsomeoftherenderedfatgavethemnicemeatyflavor.Weseasonedthefillingwithgarlic,cumin,oregano,andcayennetofinishitoff.Canneddicedtomatoesstuddedwithspicychilesmimickedthetraditionalspicysauce,andMontereyJackcontributedacreamydimension.Asimplemixtureofflour,skimmilk,andwhippedeggwhitesservedastheshell,creatingapuffedbrownedtop

tothecasserole.Asprinklingofcheeseaddedwith10minutesleftintheovenbrownedthesurfaceandreinforcedthefilling’scheeseflavors.Boastingalltheelementsofourbelovedchilesrellenosbutwithoutthetime-consumingprep,thiscasserolewasaclearwinner.

1onion,choppedfine

4poblano(or6Anaheim)chiles,stemmed,seeded,andchopped

Saltandpepper

CHILESRELLENOSCASSEROLE

SERVES6TO8

Ifyoucan’tfindRo-teltomatoes,use1cupofdicedtomatoescombinedwith1finelychopped,stemmed,andseededjalapeñochile.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1(10-ounce)canRo-telDicedTomatoes&GreenChilies,drained

10ouncesMontereyJackcheese,shredded(2½cups)

½ cupall-purposeflour¾

cupskimmilk

2 largeeggwhites

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento450degrees.Heatoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addonionandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Stirinbeef,breakingupmeatintosmallpieces,andcookuntilnolongerpink,8to10minutes.Usingslottedspoon,transferbeefmixturetopapertowel–linedplate.Pouroffallbut2tablespoonsfatfromskillet.

2.Addpoblanosandcookovermedium-highheatuntilbrowned,8to10minutes.Stirinbeefmixture,garlic,cumin,oregano,¾teaspoonsalt,½teaspoonpepper,andcayenneandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Addtomatoesandcookuntilbeefmixtureisdry,about1minute.Offheat,stirin2cupsMontereyJack.Scrapemixtureinto13by9-inchbakingdish,pressingintoevenlayer.

3.Combineflour,½teaspoonsalt,and¼teaspoonpepperinbowl.Slowlywhiskmilkintoflourmixtureuntilsmooth;setaside.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipeggwhitesonmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtomedium-highandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,about3minutes.Whiskone-thirdofwhippedeggwhitesintobatter,thengentlyfoldinremainingwhites,1scoopatatime,untilcombined.

4.Pourbatteroverbeefmixture.Bakeuntiltoppingislightgoldenandpuffed,about15minutes.Sprinklewithremaining½cupMontereyJackandbakeuntilgoldenbrown,about10minutes.Letcoolonwirerackfor10minutes.Serve.

ATASTEOFTHESOUTHWEST

CarlRoetteleopenedasmallcanningplantinElsa,Texas,intheearly1940s.Bythe1950s,hisblendoftomatoes,greenchiles,andspiceshadbecomepopularthroughoutthestateandbeyond.Hisspicy,tangytomatoesareusedincountlesslocalrecipes,includingChilesRellenosCasserole,KingRanchCasserole,andamixtureofVelveetaandRo-teltomatoesknownlocallyasRo-teldip(ano-frillsversionofchiliconqueso).

KINGRANCHCASSEROLE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

KingRanchjustmightbethemostfamouscasseroleinTexas,sowehadtodoitjustice.KeepingitsmildlyspicySouthwesternflavorsintactwithoutrelyingoncannedcreamofchickensoupforbodywasaneasy(andtasty)decision.Aftercrispingtortillasintheoven,westartedthesaucewithsautéedchoppedonions,mincedjalapeños,andcumin.Weusedcanneddicedtomatoesandlettheirjuicesreduce,intensifyingthetomatoflavor,andgreenchilesbolsteredthejalapeños’heat.Flourthickenedthesauce,andheavycreamandchickenbrothampedupitsflavor,givingitalushtexture.Wepoachedslicedchickenbreastsinthesauce,stirringincilantroandcheeseofftheheattofinish.Thiscasseroleislayeredwithtortillasscatteredonthebottomofthepan,followedbyfilling,moretortillas,andtherestofthefilling.Thetortillasstayedcrispduringbaking,

moretortillas,andtherestofthefilling.Thetortillasstayedcrispduringbaking,butthiscasseroleneededsomethingextratotopitoff.Asanodtothisdish’sconvenienceitemroots,wesprinkledcrushedFritosoverthesurfacebeforeremovingthecasserolefromtheoven,crowningthisTexasclassicwithcrunchycornflavor.

12(6-inch)corntortillas

Vegetableoilspray

2onions,choppedfine

2(10-ounce)cansRo-telDicedTomatoes&GreenChilies

KINGRANCHCASSEROLE

SERVES6TO8

Ifyoucan’tfindRo-teltomatoes,use2cupsofdicedtomatoescombinedwith2finelychopped,stemmed,andseededjalapeñochiles.MontereyJackcanbesubstitutedfortheColbyJackhere.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

3 cupschickenbroth

1 cupheavycream

4(6-ounce)boneless,skinlesschickenbreasts,trimmed,halvedlengthwise,andcutcrosswiseinto½-inch-thickslices

1poundColbyJackcheese,shredded(4cups)

Saltandpepper

6ouncesFritoscornchips,crushed(2¼cups)

1.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento450degrees.Arrangetortillason2bakingsheetsandlightlyspraybothsidesoftortillaswithoilspray.Bakeuntilslightlycrispandbrowned,about12minutes.Lettortillascoolslightly,thenbreakintobite-sizepieces.Adjustupperovenracktomiddleposition(ovenrackwillbehot).

2.HeatbutterinDutchovenovermedium-highheat.Addonions,jalapeños,andcuminandcookuntillightlybrowned,about8minutes.Addtomatoesandtheirjuiceandcookuntilmostofliquidhasevaporated,about10minutes.Stirinflourandcookfor1minute.Addbrothandcream,bringtosimmer,andcookuntilthickened,2to3minutes.Stirinchickenandcookuntilnolongerpink,about4minutes.Offheat,addColbyJackandcilantroandstiruntilcheeseismelted.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Scatterhalfoftortillapiecesin13by9-inchbakingdishsetinrimmedbakingsheet.Spoonhalfoffillingevenlyovertortillapieces.Scatterremainingtortillapiecesoverfilling,thentopwithremainingfilling.(Unbakedcasserolecanbewrappedtightlyinaluminumfoilandrefrigeratedforupto24hours;increasecoveredbakingtimeto30minutes.)4.Coverdishwithfoilandbakeuntilfillingisbubbling,about15minutes.Removefoil,sprinklewithFritos,andbakeuntillightlybrowned,about10minutes.Letcasserolecoolfor10minutesbeforeserving.

PREDICTINGACHILE’SBURN

Manycooksclaimthatthesmallerthechile,thebiggertheburn.Toseeifthiswastrue,wegatheredadozenjalapeñosofvaryingsizeandstartedsampling.Afloodoftearslater,welearnedthatthereisnocorrelationbetweenthesizeofthejalapeñoanditsheatlevel.Notwillingtotakethepaininvain,wechoseamorequantitativeapproach

andsentahandfulofsimilarlysizedjalapeñostoalabtotesttheirlevelsofcapsaicin,thechemicalcompoundresponsiblefortheirheat.Shockingly,somechileshadasmuchas10timesthekickasseeminglyidenticalchiles.Unfortunately,theonlywaytogaugeachile’sburnistotryasmallpiece.Ifyouwanttopreservetheflavorofthechilebutlosesomeoftheheat,cutawaythewhiteribsandseeds(weliketoweargloveswhenhandlinganyhotchile),whichiswherethecapsaicinislocated;thefleshofajalapeñohasjustafractionoftheheatoftheinterior.

TEXASCAVIAR

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Youwon’tfindanyroeinTexascaviar,butthatdoesn’tmakeitanylessdelectable.Thisblack-eyedpeasaladwascreatedin1940byHelenCorbitt,the“motherofmodernTexascooking,”duringherstintasdirectoroffoodservicesattheZodiacRoominDallas.Then,her“pickled”black-eyedpeasweremarinatedinasimplevinaigretteandtossedwithonionandgarlic.Wewantedtobrightentheflavorswhilekeepingthingsfuss-free.Ahighlyacidicdressingwaskey,soweusedaheavyhandwithredwinevinegarandbalanceditwithoil,addingsomesugartosoftentheburnandgarlicforflavor.Cannedblack-eyedpeassavedushoursofsoakingandcookingdriedbeanswithoutsacrificingtexture.Bypassingonionsaltogether,wecreatedacrunchy,savory,earthymélangebytossingtheblack-eyedpeaswithslicedscallions,redandgreenbell

mélangebytossingtheblack-eyedpeaswithslicedscallions,redandgreenbellpepper,choppedcelery,andtwojalapeños(leavetheseedsinforfolkswholikethingsonthespicyside).Mixedtogether,thesaladtastedgood,butitwasevenbetteraftersittingforanhour(andgreatthenextday).Thoughitwasnotrealcaviar,wefeltprettyprivilegedtoserveupthistastyTexaspicnicdish.

cupredwinevinegar

1 tablespoonsugar

Saltandpepper

2(15.5-ounce)cansblack-eyedpeas,rinsed

1redbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andchopped

greenbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andchopped

TEXASCAVIAR

SERVES6

Ifyoupreferaspiciersalad,reserveandstirinsomeofthejalapeñoseeds.Notethatthesaladneedstositforatleastanhourpriortoserving.Itwillkeepintherefrigeratorforatleastfivedays.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1celeryrib,choppedfine

1.Whiskvinegar,oil,sugar,garlic,1teaspoonsalt,and½teaspoonpeppertogetherinlargebowl.

2.Addpeas,scallions,bellpeppers,jalapeños,celery,cilantro,andparsleyandtosstocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Letsitforatleast1hourbeforeserving.

TOSSINGTHESTEMS:DOORDON’T?

Recently,weheardawildrumorthatthestemsofflat-leafparsleyandcilantroholdmoreflavorthantheleaves.Wedecidedtoputthisnotiontothetest.Aftercleaninganddryingseveralbunchesofparsleyandcilantro,weaskedtasterstoeattheherbsbythesprig,fromthetenderleaftothefattipofthestem.Whatdidwefind?Well,thestemsdohavemoreflavor,butthat’snotalwaysgoodnews.Whiletheparsleyleaveswerefreshandherbal,weweresurprisedbyhowintensetheflavorbecameaswetraveleddownthestems.Bythetimewereachedthestemends,tasterswerecomplaining(loudly)aboutbitterness.Cilantro,however,wasanotherstory.Sure,theleavesweretasty,butthegreat

flavorfoundinthestemscaughtusalloffguard.Sweet,fresh,andpotent,theflavorintensifiedaswetraveleddownthestembutneverbecamebitter.Themoral?Ifarecipecallsforcilantroandacrunchytextureisn’tanissue(asinourTexasCaviar),feelfreetousethestemsaswellastheleaves.Butwhenitcomestoparsley—unlessyou’llbeusingtheherbinasouporstewwhereitsstrongflavorwon’tbeoutofplace—bepickyandusejusttheleaves.

RINSINGCANNEDBEANS

Cannedbeansaremadebypressure-cookingdriedbeansdirectlyinthecanwithwater,salt,andpreservatives.Asthebeanscook,starchesandproteinsleachintotheliquid,thickeningit.Wegenerallycallforcannedbeanstoberinsedtoremovethisstarchyliquid,butistheextrastepreallynecessary?Wenoticedthatsaladsmadewithrinsedblack-eyedpeaswerebrighterinflavorandlesspastythantheversionswithunrinsedbeans.Wefoundthatthethick,saltybeanliquiddoeshavethepotentialtothrowasimplerrecipeoff-kilter.Andsincerinsingbeanstakesonlyafewseconds,werecommenddoingso.

WILDRICEDRESSING

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Combiningthebestofbreadstuffingwithwildrice’snutty,earthyflavors,wildricedressingshouldberichandbuttery,butnotheavy—thebestdressingsleaveroomforturkey,ofcourse.Differentvarietiesofwildriceabsorbvaryingamountsofliquid,soweboiledthegrainsinwaterandchickenbrothbeforedrainingthem,reservingthecookingliquid.Pea-sizebreadcrumbskeptthebreadfromovershadowingthesmallgrainsofrice,andbakingthemforafewminutesaddedcolorandcrunch.Wesautéedonionsandceleryinbutter,nextaddinggarlic,sage,andthymefortheirsavoryherbalflavors.Acustardyblendofeggsandcreamenrichedthedressingandboundittogether.Addingsomeofthestarchycookingliquidlightenedthedishandenhancedthenuttyflavoroftherice.Ourdressingwasloadedwithdistinctwildricetasteandtoastycrunch,

rice.Ourdressingwasloadedwithdistinctwildricetasteandtoastycrunch,makingitjustthesavory,whollydeliciouschangeofpacewewerelookingfor.

2 cupschickenbroth

2 cupswater

1 bayleaf

2 cupswildrice

10slicesheartywhitesandwichbread,tornintopieces

2onions,choppedfine

3celeryribs,minced

garliccloves,minced

WILDRICEDRESSING

SERVES10TO12

Dependingonthebrand,wildriceabsorbsvaryingquantitiesofliquid.Ifyouhavelessthan1½cupsofleftoverricecookingliquid,makeupthedifferencewithadditionalchickenbroth.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

teaspoonsdriedsage

teaspoonsdriedthyme

cupsheavycream

2 largeeggs

teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

1.Bringbroth,water,andbayleaftoboilinmediumsaucepanovermedium-highheat.Addrice,reduceheattolow,andsimmer,covered,untilriceistender,35to45minutes.Straincontentsofpanthroughfine-meshstrainerinto4-cupliquidmeasuringcup.Transferricetobowl;discardbayleaf.Measureoutandreserve1½cupscookingliquid.

2.Adjustovenrackstoupper-middleandlower-middlepositionsandheatovento325degrees.Pulsehalfofbreadinfoodprocessorintopea-sizepieces,about6pulses;transfertorimmedbakingsheet.Repeatwithremainingbreadandsecondrimmedbakingsheet.Bakebreadcrumbsuntilgolden,about20minutes,stirringoccasionallyandswitchingandrotatingsheetshalfwaythroughbaking.Coolcompletely,about10minutes.

3.Melt4tablespoonsbutterin12-inchskilletovermediumheat.Cookonionsandceleryuntilsoftenedandgolden,8to10minutes.Addgarlic,sage,andthymeandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Stirinreservedcookingliquid,removefromheat,andletcoolfor5minutes.

4.Whiskcream,eggs,salt,andpeppertogetherinlargebowl.Slowlywhiskinwarmbroth-vegetablemixture.Stirinriceandtoastedbreadcrumbsandtransferto13by9-inchbakingdish.(Dressingcanberefrigeratedforupto1day;increasebakingtimeto65to75minutes.)5.Meltremaining4tablespoonsbutterinnow-emptyskilletanddrizzleevenlyoverdressing.Coverdishwithaluminumfoilandbakeonlower-middlerackuntilset,45to55minutes.Removefoilandletcoolfor15minutes.Serve.

DRIEDFRUITANDNUTWILDRICEDRESSING

Add1½cupschoppeddriedapricots,cranberries,orcherriesand1½cupschoppedtoastedpecanswithbreadcrumbsinstep4.

LEEKANDMUSHROOMWILDRICEDRESSING

Substitute4leeks(whiteandlightgreenpartsonly),halvedlengthwiseandslicedthin,and10ouncescreminimushrooms,slicedthin,foronionsandcelery.

HARVESTINGRICEWATER

Wecookwildricemorelikepastathanliketraditionalsteamedrice,boilingthericeinextrawater(andchickenbroth)andthendrainingit.Wethenusetheflavorful,starchyliquidtohelpthedressingcohere.

HAWAIIANFRIEDRICE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Crammedwithsaltyhamandjuicypineapplechunks,abowlofHawaiianfriedriceishardtobeat.BoastingthesamestaringredientsasHawaiianpizza,thissalty-sweetdishstartswithsautéedvegetables—redbellpepper,scallions,andonion—andbrownedchoppedham.Toboostourrice’sflavor,weaddedmincedgarlicandgingerfora30-secondturn,justenoughtimetobecomefragrant,andthensetthehammixtureaside.Coldprecookedriceholdsitsshapewhenfried,sowecookeditinalittleoiljustlongenoughtoheatitbeforepushingittooneside,addingmoreoil,andpouringinbeateneggs.Oncetheeggswereset,weaddedthehammixtureandmixedeverythingtogether.Westirredinazestyblendofsoysauce,sesameoil,andfierySrirachaandthen,offtheheat,addedpineappleandscalliongreensforbright,freshislandflavor.Thisdangerously

pineappleandscalliongreensforbright,freshislandflavor.Thisdangerouslydeliciousfriedricewasabreezetomake—anditdisappearedjustaseasily.

3 tablespoonssoysauce

2 tablespoonstoastedsesameoil

1 tablespoonSrirachasauce

2tablespoonsplus1teaspoonpeanutoil

1cup(6ounces)choppedham

1redbellpepper,stemmed,seeded,andcutinto½-inchpieces

6scallions,whitepartsminced,greenpartscutinto½-inchpieces

1smallonion,halvedandslicedthin

HAWAIIANFRIEDRICE

SERVES4

Youcanuse6ouncesofchoppedleftoverham,hamsteak,ordelihamforthisrecipe.Crumb-CoatedBakedHamworkswellinthisrecipe.Coldleftoverricestaysfirmduringfrying,butifyoudon’thaveanyonhand,FauxLeftoverRiceisjustasgood.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1 tablespoongratedfreshginger

4cupscookedlong-grainwhiterice,cold

1cup½-inchpineapplepieces

1.Combinesoysauce,sesameoil,andSrirachainbowlandsetaside.Heat1tablespoonpeanutoilin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheatuntiljustsmoking.Addham,bellpepper,scallionwhites,andonionandcook,stirringoccasionally,untillightlybrowned,7to9minutes.Stiringarlicandgingerandcookuntilfragrant,about30seconds.Transfertoplate.

2.Heat1tablespoonpeanutoilinnow-emptyskilletovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addriceandcook,breakingupclumpswithspoon,untilheatedthrough,about3minutes.

3.Pushriceto1sideofskilletandaddremaining1teaspoonpeanutoiltoemptysideofskillet.Addeggstooiledsideofskilletandcook,stirring,untilset,about30seconds.Stireggsandhammixtureintorice.Stirsoysaucemixtureintoriceuntilthoroughlycombined.Offheat,stirinpineappleandscalliongreens.Serve.

2cupslong-grainwhiterice,rinsed

cupswater

FAUXLEFTOVERRICE

MAKES6CUPS

Heatoilinlargesaucepanovermediumheatuntilshimmering.Addriceandstirtocoatgrainswithoil,about30seconds.Addwater,increaseheattohigh,andbringtoboil.Reduceheattolow,cover,andsimmeruntilallliquidisabsorbed,about18minutes.Offheat,removelidandplacecleandishtowelfoldedinhalfoversaucepan;replacelid.Letstanduntilriceisjusttender,about8minutes.Spreadriceinrimmedbakingsheetsetonwirerackandcoolfor10minutes.Transfertorefrigeratorandchillfor20minutes.

PREPPINGPINEAPPLE

1.Trimoffbottomandtopofpineapplesoitsitsflatoncounter.

2.Restpineappleontrimmedbottomandcutoffskininthinstripsfromtoptobottom,usingsharpparing,chef’s,orserratedknife.

3.Quarterpineapplelength-wise,thencutthroughtoughcorefromeachquarter.Slicepineappleinto½-inchpieces.

TEX-MEXRICE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSTex-Mexriceisagutsy,spicy,sunset-orangepilaf—nothingliketheblandriceoftenstuffedintoburritos.Forgrainswithgreattomatoflavorandenoughheattokeepusinterested,wedidn’tcutanycornerswhencookingtherice.Rinsinglong-grainwhitericeunderrunningwaterremovedexcessstarch,promisingfluffiertexture.Aftersautéingonion,poblano,andjalapeñosinoil,weleftsomeofthearomaticvegetablesinthepotandaddedthericealongwithcuminandoregano.Thoughriceistypicallysautéedforabout3minutes,afewmoreminutesonthestoveimpartedgreattoastyflavor.Canneddicedtomatoes,pureedaheadoftimeandaddedtothepotalongwithchickenbroth,gavethericeitssignaturecolorandsweettomatoflavor.Weletthericesimmer,covered,untiltheliquidwasabsorbed,atwhichpointweremovedthepotfromtheheat

untiltheliquidwasabsorbed,atwhichpointweremovedthepotfromtheheatandstirredinsomeofthereservedchilemixture.Withafinalfluffingbeforeserving,thisricehadboldflavortobackupitsboldhue.

cupvegetableoil

1onion,choppedfine

1poblanochile,stemmed,seeded,andminced

1½ cupslong-grainwhiterice,rinsed

cupschickenbroth

TEX-MEXRICE

SERVES4TO6

Ifyoucan’tfindpoblanochiles(sometimeslabeled“pasillachiles”),substituteanAnaheimchileoragreenbellpeppercombinedwithanextrajalapeñochile.Formoreheat,includetheribsandseedsofthejalapeñochiles.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Processtomatoesandtheirjuiceinfoodprocessoruntilsmooth;setaside.

2.HeatoilinDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntilshimmering.Addonion,poblano,andjalapeñosandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes;reserve¼cupchilemixture.Stirrice,cumin,andoreganointopotandcook,stirringfrequently,untilriceisdeepgolden,5to6minutes.

3.Addbroth,processedtomatoes,and1teaspoonsaltandbringtoboil.Cover,reduceheattolow,andsimmeruntilliquidisabsorbedandriceistender,about25minutes.Removefromheatandstirinreservedchilemixture.Coverandletstandfor10minutes.Fluffwithforkandseasonwithsalt.Serve.

TALKINGTEX-MEXRICE

Tex-Mexricecanbegloppyandbland.Oursrepairsitstextureandturnsuptheflavor.

1.Don’tskipthisstep.Rinsericetoriditofstarchesandpreventgummytexture.

2.Toastriceonstovetopforabout5minutes,nearlytwiceaslongasusual,tocreatedeep,nuttyflavor.

3.Pureecanneddicedtomatoesthinnedwithchickenbrothtogivericebrighttomatoflavor.

CORNFLAKESTUFFING

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

HopingtomixthingsuponourThanksgivingtablethisyear,wecouldn’twaittogivethetextureandsavoryflavorsofcornflakestuffingatry.Tokick-startthebase,wesoftenedchoppedonionandceleryinmeltedbutter(thoughrenderedchickenfatalsotastesgreat).Oncethechoppedvegetableswerecool,wetossedthemwithcornflakesbeforeaddingchickenbroth,parsley,beateneggs,salt,andpepper.Asheetofaluminumfoilcoveringthebakingpancontainedtheescapingsteamwhilethestuffingset;removingthefoilforthelast10minutesallowedthetoptoturnappealinglybrownandcrisp.Servedalongsideturkeyorchicken,thisunusualstuffingwasgoodenoughtoeatwellbeyondthefourthThursdayofNovember.

6tablespoonsunsaltedbutterorrenderedchickenfat

4onions,choppedfine

1(18-ounce)boxcornflakes

4 cupschickenbroth

1 teaspoonsalt

CORNFLAKESTUFFING

SERVES10TO12

Youcanfindrenderedchickenfatwiththekosherfoodsinthefreezersectionofmostsupermarkets.Youwillneed14cupsofcornflakes.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1 teaspoonpepper

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento400degrees.Grease3-quartbakingdish.Meltbutterin12-inchskilletovermediumheat.Addonionsandceleryandcookuntilsoftenedandbeginningtobrown,10to15minutes.Removefromheatandletcoolfor5minutes.

2.Combinecornflakesandwarmonionmixtureinlargebowl.Stirinbroth,parsley,eggs,salt,andpepperuntilcombined.Transfermixturetopreparedbakingdishandcovertightlywithaluminumfoil.Bakeuntilset,about30minutes.Removefoilandcontinuetobakeuntilsurfaceisgoldenandcrisp,about10minutes.Letcoolfor15minutes.Serve.

CHOPPINGWITHOUTTEARS

CornflakeStuffingisnothingtocryabout,butthefourchoppedonionsinthisrecipemightmakeitunavoidable.Overtheyears,we’vecollectedideasfromreaders,books,andcolleaguesallaimedatreducingtearswhilecuttingonions.Wedecidedtoputthoseideastothetest.Theyrangedfromthecommonsense(workunderneathanexhaustfanorfreezetheonionsfor30minutesbeforeslicing)tothecomical(wearskigogglesorholdatoothpickinyourteeth).Overall,themethodsthatworkedbestweretoprotectoureyesbycovering

themwithgogglesorcontactlensesortointroduceaflamenearthecutonions.Theflame,whichcanbeproducedbyeitheracandleoragasburner,changestheactivityofthethiopropanalsulfoxidebycompletingitsoxidization.Contactlensesandgogglesformaphysicalbarrierthatthethiopropanalcannotpenetrate.Soifyouwanttokeeptearsatbaywhenhandlingonions,lightacandleorgasburnerorputonsomeskigoggles.

LAYINGONTHESCHMALTZ

WhileCornflakeStuffingisdeliciousmadewithbutter,chickenfat(orschmaltz)addsrichnessanddepth.Howelsecanyouusethisflavor-booster?Ifyou’remakingsoup,usethefatinsteadofoiltosautéthearomatics.Youcanalsouseitinplaceofbutterwhenmakingarouxforgravyorstew.Chickenfatwillkeepintherefrigeratoranditalsofreezeswell.

JOJOPOTATOES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Shaggy,crunchyJoJopotatoesareamainstayintavernsandroadsideeateriesthroughoutthePacificNorthwest.Hopingtobringtheseheavilyseasonedpotatoestoprominenceinhomekitchenseverywhere,webeganbyslicingrussetsintothickwedges.Simplybakingthemwouldyielduncookedcenters,soweparcookedthepotatoesinthemicrowavetojump-starttheirfluffyinterior.Fordeep-friedcrunchrightoutoftheoven,weaddedvegetableoiltothemicrowavedwedgesandstirredthemforafullminute,causingthepotatoestoemitanevenfilmofstarch.Forthebreading,ablendofcrunchypanko,gratedParmesan,drymustard,garlicpowder,thyme,andcayenneclungnicely,creatingthetextureandseasoningwewerelookingfor.Alayerofoilbrushedonapreheatedbakingsheetmadeforgreatcrisping,andflippingthewedges

apreheatedbakingsheetmadeforgreatcrisping,andflippingthewedgeshalfwaythroughbakingensuredevencooking.Happywithourtakeonthistakeoutfavorite,weservedourhomemadeJoJopotatoeslikethelocalsdo:withcoolhomemaderanchdressing.

3russetpotatoes,unpeeled

cuppankobreadcrumbs

1⅓ ouncesParmesancheese,grated(⅔cup)

1 tablespoonpaprika

2 teaspoonsdrymustard

1 teaspoonsalt

teaspoondriedthyme

JOJOPOTATOES

SERVES4TO6

Donotsubstitutestandardstore-boughtbreadcrumbsforthepankohere.Thesepotatoesareperfectdippedinranchdressing.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

⅛ teaspooncayennepepper

1.Adjustovenracktomiddleposition,placerimmedbakingsheetonrack,andheatovento400degrees.Cuteachpotatolengthwiseinto6wedges.Placepotatoesinlargebowlandcover.Microwaveuntiledgesofpotatoesaretranslucentbutcentersremainslightlyfirm,6to8minutes,shakingbowl(withoutuncovering)toredistributepotatoeshalfwaythroughmicrowaving.Carefullyuncoveranddrainpotatoeswell.Returnpotatoestobowl,add3tablespoonsoil,andstiruntilpotatoesarecoatedwithstarchyfilm,about1minute.

2.Combinepanko,Parmesan,paprika,drymustard,salt,garlicpowder,thyme,andcayenneinshallowdish.Dredgeone-quarterofpotatoesinpankomixture,pressinggentlytoadhere.Transfertoplatterandrepeatwithremainingpotatoes.Letsitfor15minutes.

3.Removehotsheetfromovenandbrushwithremaining2tablespoonsoil.Arrangepotatoescutsidedowninsinglelayer.Bakeuntilcrispandgoldenbrown,25to30minutes,flippingwedgeshalfwaythroughbaking.Serveimmediately.

cupsourcream

cupbuttermilk

2tablespoonsmincedfreshcilantro(ordill,tarragon,orparsley)

1 tablespoonmincedshallot

2 teaspoonswhitewinevinegar

teaspoongranulatedgarlic

teaspoonsalt

teaspoonpepper

RANCHDRESSING

MAKES1CUP

Whisksourcream,buttermilk,cilantro,shallot,vinegar,garlic,salt,andpeppertogetheruntilsmooth.Seasonwithsugartotaste.

STIROUTTHESTARCH

Stirtheparcookedpotatowedgesforafullminutetocreateastarchyglueontheirexteriorthatcangrabontothepankocoating.

PERFECTPARMESAN

GratingParmesanyourselfisanextrastepthatmakesabigimpactonJoJopotatoes.Tostart,alwaysbuyawedgewithapieceoftherindattached;thisway,youcanseethesignatureimprintstampedontherindandknowthatyouaregettingwhatyou’repayingfor.Arasp-stylegraterproduceslight,featherystrandsofcheesewithverylittlework.Thesmallholesofaboxgraterworkwell,too.YoucanstoreanyextragratedParmesaninthefreezerorrefrigeratorforabout3weeks;forcookingapplications,thereislittledifferencebetweenfreshlygratedandpregratedParmesanthathasbeenproperlystored.

FUNERALPOTATOES

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ThischeesypotatocasseroleiscommonlyattributedtotheMormons,thoughversionsofithavepoppedupalloverthecountry.Mostrecipesrelyontheconvenienceofcondensedsoup,butweweresurethatswappingthecanforfreshflavorswouldyieldanultrasatisfyingcasseroleinnotime.Aftersofteningchoppedonionsinbutter,weaddedflourtocreateagoldenroux.Chickenbroth,half-and-half,andsomeseasoninggaveourhomemadetakeonthestandardbaseplentyofbody.Usingfrozenshreddedhashbrownsforthepotatoescuthoursoutofourpreptimewithoutsacrificingthedish’sflavorortexture.Afterwestirredinsomeshreddedcheddar,cookingthefrozenpotatoesinthesaucethawedtheminonly10minutes.Sourcreamgivesfuneralpotatoestheirsignaturetang,sowestirredsomeinofftheheattofinish.Crushedsour-cream-

signaturetang,sowestirredsomeinofftheheattofinish.Crushedsour-cream-and-onionpotatochipssprinkledoverthesurfacebackedupthecasserole’sflavorsandaddedirresistiblecrunch.Atlast,wehadlush,homemadeflavoralongsidetheconvenienceofstore-boughthashbrownsandpotatochips—thesefuneralpotatoesprovedadeliciouscompromise.

2onions,choppedfine

¼ cupall-purposeflour1½

cupschickenbroth

1cuphalf-and-half

teaspoonssalt

teaspoondriedthyme

teaspoonpepper

cupsfrozenshreddedhashbrownpotatoes

FUNERALPOTATOES

SERVES8TO10

You’llneedone30-ouncebagoffrozenshredded(notdiced)hashbrownpotatoesforthisrecipe.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

cupsourcream

4ouncessour-cream-and-onionpotatochips,crushed

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.MeltbutterinDutchovenovermedium-highheat.Addonionsandcookuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addflourandcook,stirringconstantly,untilgolden,about1minute.Slowlywhiskinbroth,half-and-half,salt,thyme,andpepperandbringtoboil.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilslightlythickened,3to5minutes.Offheat,whiskincheddaruntilsmooth.

2.Stirpotatoesintosauce,cover,andcook,stirringoccasionally,overlowheatuntilthawed,about10minutes.Offheat,stirinsourcreamuntilcombined.

3.Transfermixtureto13by9-inchbakingdishandtopwithpotatochips.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,45to50minutes.Letcoolfor10minutesbeforeserving.

TOMAKEAHEAD:Potatomixturecanberefrigeratedinbakingdish,coveredwithaluminumfoil,forupto2days.Toserve,bakepotatoes,stillcoveredwithfoil,for20minutes.Removedishfromovenanduncover.Topwithpotatochipsandbakeuntilgoldenbrown,45to50minutes.

BEREAVEMENTBISCUITS

Mormonshavetheirfuneralpotatoes,butformanyofthefirstAmericancolonists,respectablefuneralswereunthinkablewithoutastashof“funeralbiscuits”todistributetomourners.Unrelatedtomodernbakingpowderbiscuits,thesewerebasicallylarge,flatcookies,usuallyroundandstampedinmoldswithheartsorotherdecorativemotifs.Withatexturethatresembleddry,slightlycrispladyfingers,theyweremeanttobeconsumedwithwine.Familiesthatcouldaffordthemorderedmanydozensfromspecialtyconfectionersandreceivedthemreadytohandout,handsomelywrappedinwhitepaper—anexpensiveluxuryatthetime—andsealedwithblackwax.Funeralbiscuits(theDutchcalledthemdootcoekjes,literally“deathcookies”)probablyreachedtheirheightofpopularityintheearly19thcenturyandfadedoutaftertheCivilWar.

CRUSHINGONCRUNCH

Tocrushpotatochips,puttheminzipper-lockbag,seal,androlloverthemwithrollingpin.

HEAVENLYHOTS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

ThelittlepancakesknownasHeavenlyHots,belovedfortheirtanganddelicate,tendertexture,wereoncethecrowningitemonthemenuatBerkeley,California’sBridgeCreekRestaurant.Thesecretliesintheirunconventionalingredients:sourcream,afeweggs,andamere¼cupofcakeflourto(barely)holdthebattertogether.Usingtheoriginalmeasurements,wefoundthatthehots’etherealtexturealsomadethemhardtoflip.Tostrengthenthebatterwithoutturningourhotsintoplainoldflapjacks,sturdierall-purposeflour,bolsteredwithcornstarch,bakingpowder,andbakingsoda,didthetrick.Wewhiskedthesourcreamandeggstogether,addingvanillatosubtlymellowthesourcream’stang.Afterfoldingthedryingredientsintothewet,wescoopedthebatterintoabutteredskillettocookforjustoveraminutebeforeflippingthe

batterintoabutteredskillettocookforjustoveraminutebeforeflippingthehotstofinishthem.Innotime,wehadourplatesstackedwithtender,golden-brownHeavenlyHots,andafteradustingofconfectioners’sugar,onetasteprovedtheselittlepancakesweretrulysentfromabove.

3 tablespoonssugar

1 teaspooncornstarch

teaspoonbakingsoda

teaspoonsalt

2 cupssourcream

HEAVENLYHOTSMAKES32;SERVES4

Servethesepancakesplainordustedwithabitofconfectioners’sugar.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento200degrees.Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Whiskflour,sugar,cornstarch,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsalttogetherinbowl.Whisksourcream,eggs,andvanillatogetherinlargebowluntilsmooth.Gentlyfoldflourmixtureintosourcreammixtureuntilincorporated.

2.Heat2teaspoonsbutterin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-lowheatuntilbutterbeginstosizzle.Using1-tablespoonmeasure,portionbatterintopanin5places,cover,andcookpancakesuntiltopsappeardryandbottomsaregoldenbrown,1½to2minutes.

3.Usingthinspatula,gentlyflippancakesandcook,uncovered,untilgoldenbrown,about30seconds.Transfertopreparedwirerackandkeepwarminoven.Repeatwithremainingbatter,usingremaining7teaspoonsbutterasneeded.Serve.

CONFECTIONERS’SUGARSUBSTITUTE

Adustingofconfectioners’sugargivesHeavenlyHotsaprofessionallook,butifyouhaveonlygranulatedsugaronhand,youcanstillhavetheperfectfinish.For1cupofconfectioners’sugar,grind1cupofgranulatedsugarand1teaspoonofcornstarchinablender(notafoodprocessor).

THEPERFECTFINISH

Forattractive,evenlycoatedresults,thelightestpossibletouchisamustwhendustingdessertswithconfectioners’sugar.Holdfine-meshstrainerin1handandgentlytapitssidewithfingerfrom

oppositehand.(Donotshakestraineritself;thiswillproduceheavyspots.)Movesieveovernextareatobecoveredandrepeat.

SOURCREAMREIGNSSUPREME

ThesecretbehindtheuniquetangandtextureofHeavenlyHotsissourcream.Sourcreamissimplycreamfermentedwithaspecifictypeofbacteriainordertothickenandsourit.Weusefull-fatsourcreamhereinthetestkitchen;howeverlightsourcream(madewithpartcream,partmilk)isalsofine.Avoidnonfatsourcream,whichwilladverselyaffectyourbakedgoods.Inapinch,anequalamountofwholemilkyogurtcanbesubstitutedforsourcreaminbaking.

TICKTOCKORANGESTICKYROLLS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Between1930and1988,Hollywood’sTickTockTeaRoomservedupheartyplattersofmeatloaf,roastturkey,andfriedchicken,buttherestaurant’sdefiningtouchwasthebasketofhotstickyrollsservedbeforeeachmeal.TheTickTock’srollsboastedabiscuitlikedoughgleamingwithagooeyorangeglaze—acombinationwewantedtobringtoourowntables.Forathick,stickyglazethatwouldn’tseepintotherolls,wereducedorangejuiceconcentrate,brownsugar,granulatedsugar,andbutter.Welettheglazehardeninagreasedcakepanwhileweturnedtothedough.Therollsneededtobesturdybuttender,sowestirredtogetherabiscuitdoughmadewithbuttermilkandmeltedbutterthatbecamefirmerafter5minutesofkneading.Werolledthedoughintoarectangleandpressedonazestyorange-cinnamonfillingbeforerollingitintoalong,tight

pressedonazestyorange-cinnamonfillingbeforerollingitintoalong,tightcylinder.Aftercuttingthecylinderintoeightevenslices,wearrangedtherollsontopofthehardenedglaze.Afterabout20minutesintheoven,theglazemeltedintoagooey,citrusytopping.OurremakeofHollywood’slong-loststickyrollswasreadyforitsbigpremiere.

ORANGEGLAZE

½ cupfrozenorangejuiceconcentrate,thawed¼ cuppacked(1¾ounces)lightbrownsugar¼ cup(1¾ounces)granulatedsugar

ORANGE-CINNAMONFILLING½ cuppacked(3½ounces)lightbrownsugar¼ cup(1¾ounces)granulatedsugar

1 teaspoongratedorangezest

teaspoonsalt

TICKTOCKORANGESTICKYROLLS

SERVES8

Don’tletthebunssitinthepanformorethan5minutesafterbaking.Theglazewillbegintohardenandthebunswillstick.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,melted

BISCUITDOUGH

2¾ cups(13¾ounces)all-purposeflour,plusextraforcounter

2 tablespoonsgranulatedsugar

teaspoonbakingsoda

teaspoonsalt

cupsbuttermilk

1.FORTHEGLAZE:Grease9-inchcakepanwithvegetableoilspray.Bringallingredientstosimmerinsmallsaucepanovermediumheat.Cookuntilmixturethickensandclingstobackofspoon,about5minutes.Pourmixtureintopreparedpan.Cooluntilglazehardens,atleast20minutes.

2.FORTHEFILLING:Adjustovenracktolower-middlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Combineallingredientsexceptbutterinbowl.Usingfork,stirinbutteruntilmixtureresembleswetsand.

3.FORTHEDOUGH:Whiskflour,sugar,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsalttogetherinbowl.Whiskbuttermilkandbuttertogetherinsmallbowl(mixturewillclump),thenstirintoflourmixtureuntilcombined.Kneaddoughonlightlyflouredcounteruntilsmooth,about5minutes.

4.Rolldoughinto12by9-inchrectangle.Patfillingintodough,leaving½-inchborderaroundedges.Startingat1longend,rolldoughintotightcylinderandpinchseamtogether.Cutloginto8piecesandarrangecutsidedownoncooledglaze,placing1rollincenterandremainingrollsaroundedgeofpan.

5.Bakeuntilrollsaregoldenandglazeisdarkenedandbubbling,18to25minutes.Coolinpanfor5minutes,thenturnoutontoplatter.Letrollssitfor10minutesbeforeserving.

TEAROOMSOFYESTERDAY

TearoomsinandaroundLosAngelesproliferatedduringtheDepressionwhentherewasaninfluxofnewresidentsinsearchofwork.Thesetearoomsweren’toftheBritishHighTeasortbutmorelikeunpretentiouscaféswhereonecouldordersimplefoodataffordableprices—familyjoints.Onesuchestablishment,theTickTockTeaRoom,openedin1930,whenNorwegianimmigrantsArthurandHelenJohnsonboughtarundownhomeonNorthCahuengaBoulevardinHollywoodandconverteditintoarestaurant.Theyhungtheirmostprizedpossession,anantiqueclock,onthewallandtherestwashistory;soontherewere48clocksdecoratingtherestaurant.TheJohnsonswouldservemorethan2,000three-coursemealsonbusydays.TheTickTockwassuchasuccess,thanksinparttothesweetrollsthatcamewitheverymeal,thatthefamilyopeneduptwomorelocationsintheLosAngelesarea.ThelastTickTockclosedforgoodin1988.

HARVEYHOUSECHOCOLATEPUFFS

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Beforetherewasafullystockedsnackcaroneverytrain,HarveyHouserestaurantsprovidedquickmealstotravelersontheAtchison,Topeka&SantaFeRailway,andtheirchocolatepuffsmadealastingimpact.Hopingtogivethistreatnewlife,westartedwithapâteàchouxdough(usedforprofiterolesandéclairs),andasittookshapeinthefoodprocessor,weaddedcocoaforrichchocolateflavor.Forperfectpuffs,wepipedthedoughontoabakingsheetusingazipper-lockbagandsettheovento425degreesbutreduceditto350afterthepuffshadbakedfor15minutes.Cuttingslitsintothepuffsandlettingthemdryasthepropped-openovencooledcrispedthepuffs.Foralush,fruityfilling,wemashedcookedfrozenstrawberriesintoaconcentratedsauce.Whippedcream

thickenedwithcreamcheeseprovidedastablestructureintowhichtofoldthestrawberrypuree.Weslicedthepuffs,filledthemwithcream,andspoonedaneasychocolateglazeoverthetopstodoubleuponchocolate.HistorianscreditHarveyHousewithcivilizingtheWest,butwiththismuchchocolateflavorsurroundinglushstrawberrycream,wefeltanythingbuttamed.

CHOCOLATEPUFFS

2largeeggsplus1largewhite

cupwater

5tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchpieces

2 teaspoonsgranulatedsugar

teaspoonsalt

½ cup(2½ounces)all-purposeflour

3tablespoonsDutch-processedcocoapowder

HARVEYHOUSECHOCOLATEPUFFS

SERVES8

Anaccurateoventemperatureisessentialforthepuffstopuff.Werecommendthatyoukeepanoventhermometerinyouroven.Topreventlumpsinthewhippedcreamfilling,besuretosifttheconfectioners’sugar.Theassembledpuffswillholdintherefrigeratorforupto1hour.

STRAWBERRYFILLING

8ouncesfrozenstrawberries,thawed

1cupheavycream,chilled

6tablespoons(1½ounces)confectioners’sugar,sifted

1½ ouncescreamcheese,cutinto1-inchpiecesandsoftened

CHOCOLATEGLAZE

1cup(4ounces)confectioners’sugar,sifted

3tablespoonsDutch-processedcocoapowder

2 tablespoonswater

1.FORTHECHOCOLATEPUFFS:Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento425degrees.Linerimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Whiskeggs,eggwhite,andvanillatogetherinbowl.Bringwater,butter,sugar,andsalttoboilinmediumsaucepanovermedium-highheat.Whenbutterismelted,removepanfromheat.Usingrubberspatula,stirinflouruntilsmooth.Returnsaucepantolowheatandcook,constantlystirringandsmearingmixtureagainstbottomofsaucepan,untilmixtureisslightlyshinyandregisters170degrees,2to3minutes.

2.Transferflourmixturetofoodprocessorandprocessuntilslightlycool,about30seconds.Removefeedtubeinsertfromfoodprocessor.Withfoodprocessorrunning,slowlyaddeggmixturethroughfeedtubeuntilincorporated.Scrapedownsidesofbowlandprocessuntilsmooth,thickpasteforms,about30seconds.Sprinklecocoaoverpasteandprocessuntilcombined,about15seconds,scrapingdownbowlasneeded.

3.Cut½inchfromcorneroflargezipper-lockbag.Transfercocoapastetobagandpipeeight2-inch-wideand1¼-inch-highmounds2inchesapartonpreparedbakingsheet.Dipsmallspooninwaterandsmoothexteriorofmounds.

4.Bakepuffsfor15minutes(donotopenovendoor),thenreduceoventemperatureto350degreesandcontinuetobakeuntilfirm,20minutes.Removebakingsheetfromovenandturnoffoven.Usingtipofparingknife,carefullycut½-inchslitintosideofeachpuff.Returnpuffstooven,propdooropenwithwoodenspoon,andletpuffsdryfor30minutes.Transferpuffstowireracktocoolcompletely,about30minutes.(Puffscanbestoredatroomtemperatureforupto1dayorfrozeninsinglelayerforupto1month.Letfrozenpuffscometoroomtemperaturebeforefilling.)5.FORTHESTRAWBERRYFILLING:Meanwhile,cookstrawberriesinmediumsaucepanovermedium-lowheat,mashingoccasionallywithpotatomasher,untilthickenedandreducedto½cup,10to12minutes.Transfertolargebowlandrefrigerateuntilcool,about1hour.

6.Usingstandmixerfittedwithwhisk,whipcream,sugar,andvanillatogetheronmedium-lowspeeduntilfoamy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,1to3minutes.Addcreamcheeseandwhipuntilstiffpeaksform,about30seconds.Gentlyfoldchilledstrawberriesintowhippedcream,returnmixturetolargebowl,andrefrigerateuntilfirm,about1hour.

(Fillingcanberefrigeratedforupto1day.)7.FORTHECHOCOLATEGLAZE:Setwirerackinrimmedbakingsheet.Usingserratedknife,cutpuffscrosswiseinto2pieces,½inchfrombottom.Toppuffbottomswithstrawberrywhippedcreamandreplacetops;transfertorack.Combinesugarandcocoainbowl.Whiskinwaterandvanillauntilsmooth.Spoon1tablespoonglazeovereachpuffandletsitfor15minutesuntilset.Serve.

MILLIONAIREPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

Millionairepie,sonamedforitsrichflavorandgoldenhue,isaNewMexico–bornno-bakepineapplechiffonpiethatmakesarealimpact.Whilemostrecipescallforoff-the-shelfingredientslikewhippedtoppingandcreamcheese,weknewthatboostingthisdessert’stextureandflavorwasworthalittleextraeffort.Ratherthanmarringthecreamyfillingwiththerequisitepecans,weincorporatedtheirflavorandcrunchintoapecan-studdedcookiecrust.Fortop-to-bottompineappleflavorinourfilling,wecookedcannedcrushedpineappleuntillightlybrownedandfragrant,turningitintoasmoothpureewithawhirlinthefoodprocessor.Pineapple-flavoredgelatinwouldmakeslicingeasywhilereinforcingthepuree’sflavor,sowedissolveditinpineapplejuiceandwhiskeditintoeggyolks,sugar,andsalt.Whilethepunched-uppineapplefillingsetin

itintoeggyolks,sugar,andsalt.Whilethepunched-uppineapplefillingsetintherefrigerator,wewhiskedheavycreamandsugarintoanairywhippedcream.Wefoldedsomeofthewhippedcreamintothepineapplefillingandspreaditinthecookiecrust,toppingitwiththeremainingwhippedcream.Withfullpineappleflavorandlush,creamytexture,thispietastedlikeamillionbucks.

12PecanSandies,brokenintoroughpieces(about2½cups)

½ cuppecans,chopped

FILLING

1(20-ounce)cancrushedpineapplepackedinjuice

½ cup(3½ounces)plus1tablespoonsugar

3 largeeggyolks

MILLIONAIREPIE

SERVES8

PecanSandiesarethebrandnameofacookiemadebyKeebler;anypecanshortbreadcookiewillworkinthisrecipe.Ifdesired,topthefinishedpiewith¼cupoftoastedandchoppedpecansor½cupoftoastedsweetenedflakedcoconut.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1(3-ounce)boxpineapple-flavoredgelatin

1cupfrozenpineapplejuiceconcentrate,thawed

2cupsheavycream,chilled

1.FORTHECRUST:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Processcookiesandpecansinfoodprocessortofinecrumbs,about30seconds.Addbutterandpulseuntilcombined,about5pulses.Presscrumbsintobottomandsidesof9-inchpieplateandrefrigerateuntilfirm,about20minutes.Bakeuntillightlybrownedandset,about15minutes.Coolcompletely.

2.FORTHEFILLING:Cookcrushedpineapple,¼cupsugar,andpinchsaltin12-inchnonstickskilletovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilliquidevaporatesandpineappleislightlybrowned,about15minutes.Scrapemixtureintobowloffoodprocessorandprocessuntilverysmooth,about1minute;setaside.

3.Whiskeggyolks,¼cupsugar,and¼teaspoonsalttogetherinmediumbowl.Combinegelatinand½cuppineapplejuiceconcentrateinmediumsaucepanandletsituntilgelatinsoftens,about5minutes.Cookovermediumheatuntilgelatindissolvesandmixtureisveryhotbutnotboiling,about2minutes.Whiskingvigorously,slowlyaddgelatinmixturetoeggyolks.Returnmixturetosaucepanandcook,stirringconstantly,untilslightlythickened,about2minutes.Offheat,stirinremaining½cuppineapplejuiceconcentrateandprocessedpineapplemixture.Pourintocleanlargebowlandrefrigerateuntilset,about1½hours.

4.Withelectricmixeronmedium-highspeed,whipcreamandremaining1tablespoonsugartostiffpeaks,about3minutes.Whisk1cupwhippedcreamintogelatinmixtureuntilcompletelyincorporated.Usingrubberspatula,fold1cupwhippedcreamintogelatinmixtureuntilnostreaksofwhiteremain.Scrapemixtureintocooledpieshellandsmoothtop.Spreadremainingwhippedcreamevenlyoverfillingandrefrigerateuntilfirm,atleast4hours.Serve.

TOASTED(NOTBURNT)COCONUT

IfyouchoosetotopoffMillionairePiewithasprinklingoftoastedcoconut,skiptheoven(whereitcaneasilyburn)anduseyourmicrowaveinstead.

Spreadcoconutevenlyonlargemicrowave-safeplateandcookonhighpoweruntilgoldenbrown.Ittakesacoupleofminutesandyouneedtostiritafewtimes(atabout30-secondintervals).

BLACK-BOTTOMPIE

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKSRestaurantcriticDuncanHines(yes,thatDuncanHines)hadhisfirstsliceofblack-bottompieatanOklahomadiner,andhisravereviewofthatdecadenttrifectaofchocolatecustard,rumchiffon,andwhippedcreamimmediatelyputthislusciouspieonthemap.Mostblack-bottompierecipestakehourstomakeandleaveamountainofbowlsinthesink—couldweserveupthisdreamydessertwithoutthefuss?Achocolatecookiecrustcametogethereasily;wegroundchocolatecookiesinthefoodprocessor,addedbutter,andpressedthecrumbsintoapieplate.Wemadealargebatchofcustardandwhiskedchoppedsemisweetchocolateintohalfofitforthechocolatelayer.Therumchiffonrequiredstability,andamixtureofgelatin,rum,andwatergotusontrack.Once

setandwhiskedintotherestofthecustard,itemergedfromtherefrigeratorwithaperfectlywobblytexture.Forevenmorestructure,wemadeafrostingofsugar,eggwhite,water,andcreamoftartarandfoldeditintotherumcustard.ItwaseasytoseewhyDuncanHineswasimpressedwiththispie:lushchocolateandrumlayerstoppedwithacloudofsweetenedwhippedcream.

32chocolatecookies,brokenintoroughpieces(about2½cups)

FILLING

⅔ cup(4⅔ounces)plus2tablespoonssugar

2cupshalf-and-half

4largeeggyolksplus1largewhite

ouncessemisweetchocolate,choppedfine

BLACK-BOTTOMPIE

SERVES8TO10

Topreventthefillingfromoverflowingthecrust,addthefinal½cupoftherumlayerafterthefillinghassetfor20minutes.Seethesidebarsthatfollowtherecipe.

3 tablespoonsgoldenorlightrum

2 tablespoonswater

1 teaspoonunflavoredgelatin

teaspooncreamoftartar

1½ cupsheavycream,chilled

1.FORTHECRUST:Adjustovenracktomiddlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Processcookiesinfoodprocessortofinecrumbs,about45seconds.Addbutterandpulseuntilcombined,about8pulses.Presscrumbsintobottomandsidesof9-inchpieplateandrefrigerateuntilfirm,about20minutes.Bakeuntilset,about10minutes.Coolcompletely.

2.FORTHEFILLING:Whisk⅓cupsugar,half-and-half,cornstarch,andeggyolkstogetherinsaucepan.Cookovermediumheat,stirringconstantly,untilmixturecomestoboil,about8minutes.

3.Dividehotcustardevenlybetween2bowls.Whiskchocolateintocustardin1bowluntilsmooth,thenpourintocooledpiecrust;refrigerate.Whiskrum,1tablespoonwater,andgelatintogetherinthirdbowlandletsitfor5minutes;stirintobowlwithplaincustardandrefrigerate,stirringoccasionally,untilmixtureiswobblybutnotset,about20minutes.

4.Combine⅓cupsugar,eggwhite,remaining1tablespoonwater,andcreamoftartarinlargeheatproofbowlsetovermediumsaucepanfilledwith½inchofbarelysimmeringwater(don’tletbowltouchwater).Withelectricmixeronmedium-highspeed,beateggwhitemixturetosoftpeaks,about2minutes;removebowlfromheatandbeateggwhitemixtureuntilverythickandglossyandcooledtoroomtemperature,about3minutes.

5.Whiskcooledeggwhitemixtureintochilledrumcustarduntilsmooth.Pourallbut½cuprumcustardintochocolatecustard–filledpiecrust.Refrigeratefor20minutes,thentopwithremainingrumcustard.Refrigerateuntilcompletelyset,3hoursorupto24hours.

6.Toserve,whipcreamandremaining2tablespoonssugartogetherwithelectricmixeronmedium-lowspeeduntilfrothy,about1minute.Increasespeedtohighandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,1to3minutes.Spreadwhippedcreamovertopofpie.Serve.

SILKYCHIFFON

Whippedeggwhitesandsugarcouldn’tsupportthewhippedcreamlayer,butaseven-minutefrostingturnedthingsaround:

1.Usingelectricmixeronmedium-highspeed,beateggwhitemixtureoverpotofbarelysimmeringwatertosoftpeaks,about2minutes.

2.Removebowlfromheatandbeatuntileggwhitemixturebecomesverythickandglossyandcoolstoroomtemperature,about3minutes.

AHOUSEHOLDNAME

DuncanHinescrisscrossedthecountryasatravelingsalesmanduringtheearly20thcentury.Displeasedbymanyoftherestaurantshevisited,Hinesbegancompilingalistofacceptableestablishments.Afterreceivingapositiveresponsetohislistofrecommendedrestaurantsin1935,Hinesbegancritiquingrestaurantsfulltime,leaving“RecommendedbyDuncanHines”plaquesalongtheway.Severalbooksandcookbooksfollowed,butitwasHines’sdecisiontolicensehisnameforpackagedfoods,includingboxcakemixes,thatguaranteedhisfameforgenerationstocome.

TEXASBLUEBERRYCOBBLER

WHYTHISRECIPEWORKS

IntheHillCountryregionofTexas,cobblerstakeonaverydifferentlookfromthefruit-and-biscuitdessertsservedelsewhereinAmerica.There,athick,pancakelikebatterformsacraggysurfacestuddedwithfruit.Meltingbutterinthebakingpanpromisedrich,deliciouslycrispedges.Flour,sugar,bakingpowder,salt,milk,andcoolmeltedbuttercreatedathickbatter,whichwepouredoverthemeltedbutterinourbakingpan.Lemonbrightensblueberrydesserts,sowepulsedsugarandlemonzestinafoodprocessorandmashedsomeofthecitrusysugarwithblueberriestoaddsomelightaciditywhilealsobreakingdowntheberries.Afterwescatteredthemashedberriesoverthebatterandsprinkledextralemonsugaroverthesurface,thecobblerwasreadytobake.Inabout45minutesthebatterroseandthefruitsank,creatingthesignature

Inabout45minutesthebatterroseandthefruitsank,creatingthesignaturepocketedsurface.Itwasacobblerlikewe’dneverseenbefore—anditsbrightfruitflavorandbutterycrusttastedoutofthisworld.

4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutinto4pieces,plus8tablespoonsmeltedandcooled

1½ cups(10½ounces)sugar1½

teaspoonsgratedlemonzest

15ounces(3cups)blueberries

1½ cups(7½ounces)all-purposeflour2½

teaspoonsalt

cupsmilk

TEXASBLUEBERRYCOBBLER

SERVES8TO10

Keepacloseeyeonthebutterasitmeltsintheovensothatitdoesn’tscorch.Placethehotbakingdishwithbutteronawirerackafterremovingitfromtheoven.Avoiduntreatedaluminumpanshere.Ifusingfrozenblueberries,thawthemfirst.Seethesidebarthatfollowstherecipe.

1.Adjustovenracktoupper-middlepositionandheatovento350degrees.Place4tablespoonscut-upbutterin13by9-inchbakingdishandtransfertooven.Heatuntilbutterismelted,8to10minutes.

2.Meanwhile,pulse¼cupsugarandlemonzesttogetherinfoodprocessoruntilcombined,about5pulses;setaside.Usingpotatomasher,mashblueberriesand1tablespoonlemonsugartogetherinbowluntilberriesarecoarselymashed.

3.Combineflour,remaining1¼cupssugar,bakingpowder,andsaltinlargebowl.Whiskinmilkand8tablespoonsmelted,cooledbutteruntilsmooth.Removebakingdishfromoven,transfertowirerack,andpourbatterintopreparedpan.

4.Dollopmashedblueberrymixtureevenlyoverbatter,sprinklewithremaininglemonsugar,andbakeuntilgoldenbrownandedgesarecrisp,45to50minutes,rotatingpanhalfwaythroughbaking.Letcobblercoolonwirerackfor30minutes.Servewarm.

ADIFFERENTKINDOFCOBBLER

Manyofusknowcobblerasajammyfruitbasewithabakedbiscuittopping.IntheLoneStarState,theystartwiththebatteronthebottomandthefruitontop.

1.Meltbutterrightinbakingpanforrich,crispcobbleredges.

2.Pourbatterintobakingpanovermeltedbutter.

3.Scatteronmashedberries.Batterwillriseoverberriesduringbaking.

DININGDESTINATIONSThroughoutthisbookwehighlightedthecommunitiesandeaterieswhosedishesinspiredourrecipes.Hereismoreinformationonwhereyoucantrytheoriginaldishestoday.

NEWENGLANDANDTHEMID-ATLANTICConnecticutSteamedCheeseburgers

Eatery:Ted’sRestaurant

Address:1046BroadStreet,Meriden,CT06450

ChickenSpiedies

Eatery:SpiedieFest

Address:spiediefest.com,Binghamton,NY

Eatery:Pat’sKingofSteaks

Address:1237E.PassyunkAvenue,Philadelphia,PA19147

Eatery:Geno’sSteaks

Address:1219S.9thStreet,Philadelphia,PA19147

ChickenRiggies

Eatery:ChesterfieldRestaurant

Address:1713BleekerStreet,Utica,NY13501

Eatery:Georgio’sVillageCafé

Address:60GeneseeStreet,NewHartford,NY13413

Eatery:Teddy’sRestaurant

Address:851BlackRiverBoulevard,Rome,NY13440

NewEnglandBarPizza

Eatery:LynwoodCafé

Address:320CenterStreet,Randolph,MA02368

Bialys

Eatery:Kossar’sBialys

Address:367GrandStreet,NewYork,NY10002

RhodeIslandJohnnycakes

Eatery:JohnnyCakeFestival

Address:johnnycakefestival.com,Richmond,RI

APPALACHIAANDTHESOUTHNewOrleansMuffulettas

Eatery:CentralGroceryandDeli

Address:923DecaturStreet,NewOrleans,LA70116

Eatery:CountryClubBakery

Address:1211CountryClubRoad,Fairmont,WV26554

KentuckyBurgoo

Eatery:InternationalBar-B-QFestival

Address:bbqfest.com,Owensboro,KY

Eatery:MoonliteBar-B-QInn

Address:2840W.ParrishAvenue,Owensboro,KY42301

CarolinaChickenBog

Eatery:LorisBog-OffFestival

Address:lorischambersc.com,Loris,SC

FriedCatfish

Eatery:TaylorGrocery

Address:4-ADepotStreet,Taylor,MS38673

Eatery:ShrimpShack

Address:1929SeaIslandParkway,St.HelenaIsland,SC29920

CarolinaRedSlaw

Eatery:LexingtonBarbecue

Address:100SmokehouseLane,Lexington,NC27295

MoravianSugarCake

Eatery:WinklerBakery

Address:521S.MainStreet,Winston-Salem,NC27101

ThoroughbredPie

Eatery:Kern’sKitchen

Address:Mailorderandretailoutletinformation,derbypie.com,Louisville,KY

Eatery:SonkerFestival

Address:sonkertrail.org,Lowgap,NC

THEMIDWESTANDGREATPLAINSIowaLooseMeatSandwiches

Eatery:Taylor’sMaid-Rite

Address:106S.3rdAvenue,Marshalltown,IA50158

IronRangePorketta

Eatery:FraboniSausage

Address:Mailorderandretailoutletinformation,frabonis.com,Hibbing,MN

Eatery:CobbCookGrocery

Address:38171stAvenue,Hibbing,MN55746

Chicago-StyleItalianBeefSandwiches

Eatery:Al’sItalianBeef

Address:1079W.TaylorStreet,Chicago,IL60607

BarbertonFriedChicken

Eatery:BelgradeGardens

Address:401E.StateStreet,Barberton,OH44203

ChickenVesuvio

Eatery:HarryCaray’sItalianSteakhouse

Address:33W.KinzieStreet,Chicago,IL60654

Bierocks

Eatery:RunzaRestaurant

Address:LocationsthroughoutIowa,Kansas,andNebraska,runza.com

HoppelPoppel

Eatery:Benji’sDeli

Address:4156N.OaklandAvenue,Milwaukee,WI53211

Address:8683N.PortWashingtonRoad,Milwaukee,WI53217

Kringle

Eatery:O&HDanishBakery

Address:1841DouglasAvenue,Racine,WI53402

Address:4006DurandAvenue,Racine,WI53405

TEXASANDTHEWESTMonteCristoSandwiches

Eatery:BlueBayouRestaurant

Address:NewOrleansSquare,DisneylandPark,Anaheim,CA92802

OklahomaBarbecuedChoppedPork

Eatery:LottaBullBBQ

Address:Mailorderandretailoutletinformation,lottabullbbq.com,Marietta,OK

Eatery:LouieMuellerBarbecue

Address:206W.2ndStreet,Taylor,TX76574

Eatery:FranklinBarbecue

Address:900E.11thStreet,Austin,TX78702

CONVERSIONS&EQUIVALENCIESSomesaycookingisascienceandanart.Wewouldsaythatgeographyhasahandinit,too.FlourmilledintheUnitedKingdomandelsewherewillfeelandtastedifferentfromflourmilledintheUnitedStates.SowecannotpromisethattheloafofbreadyoubakeinCanadaorEnglandwilltastethesameasaloafbakedintheStates,butwecanofferguidelinesforconvertingweightsandmeasures.Wealsorecommendthatyourelyonyourinstinctswhenmakingourrecipes.Refertothevisualcuesprovided.Ifthebreaddoughhasn’t“cometogetherinaball,”asdescribed,youmayneedtoaddmoreflour—eveniftherecipedoesn’ttellyouto.Youbethejudge.TherecipesinthisbookweredevelopedusingstandardU.S.measures

followingU.S.governmentguidelines.ThechartsbelowofferequivalentsforU.S.,metric,andimperial(U.K.)measures.Allconversionsareapproximateandhavebeenroundedupordowntothenearestwholenumber.

EXAMPLE:1teaspoon=4.9292milliliters,roundedupto5milliliters1ounce=28.3495grams,roundeddownto28gramsVOLUMECONVERSIONS

U.S.TOMETRIC

1teaspoon=5milliliters2teaspoons=10milliliters1tablespoon=15milliliters2tablespoons=30milliliters¼cup=59milliliters

⅓cup=79milliliters

½cup=118milliliters

¾cup=177milliliters

1cup=237milliliters

1¼cup=296milliliters

1½cup=355milliliters

2cups(1pint)=473milliliters2½cups=591milliliters3cups=710milliliters

4cups(Iquart)=0.946liter1.06quarts=1liter

4quarts(1gallon)=3.8litersWEIGHTCONVERSIONS

½ounces=14grams

¾ounces=21grams

1ounce–28grams

1½ounces=43grams

2ounces=57grams

2½ounces=71grams

3ounces=85grams

3½ounces=99grams

4ounces=113grams

4½ounces=128grams

5ounces=142grams

6ounces=170grams

7ounces=198grams

8ounces=227grams

9ounces=255grams

10ounces=283grams

12ounces=340grams

16ounces(1pound)=454grams

CONVERSIONSFORCOMMONBAKINGINGREDIENTS

Bakingisanexactingscience.Becausemeasuringbyweightisfarmoreaccuratethanmeasuringbyvolume,andthusmorelikelytoachievereliableresults,inourrecipesweprovideouncemeasuresinadditiontocupmeasuresformanyingredients.Refertothechartbelowtoconvertthesemeasuresintograms.1CupAll-PurposeFlour*=5Ounces=142Grams1CupWhole-WheatFlour=5½Ounces=156Grams1CupGranulated(White)Sugar=7Ounces=198Grams1CupPackedBrownSugar(LightorDark)=7Ounces=198Grams1CupConfectioners’Sugar=4Ounces=113Grams1CupCocoaPowder=3Ounces=85Grams4TablespoonsButter†(½stick,or¼cup)=2Ounces=57Grams8TablespoonsButter†(1stick,or½cup)=4Ounces=113Grams16TablespoonsButter†(2sticks,or1cup)=8Ounces=227Grams*U.S.all-purposeflour,themostfrequentlyusedflourinthisbook,doesnotcontainleaveners,assomeEuropeanfloursdo.Theseleavenedfloursarecalledself-risingorself-raising.Ifyouareusingself-risingflour,takethisintoconsiderationbeforeaddingleaveningtoarecipe.

†IntheUnitedStates,butterissoldbothsaltedandunsalted.Wegenerallyrecommendunsaltedbutter.Ifyouareusingsaltedbutter,takethisintoconsiderationbeforeaddingsalttoarecipe.

OVENTEMPERATURES225Fahrenheit=105Celsius=¼GasMark(Imperial)250Fahrenheit=120Celsius=½GasMark(Imperial)275Fahrenheit=135Celsius=1GasMark(Imperial)300Fahrenheit=150Celsius=2GasMark(Imperial)325Fahrenheit=165Celsius=3GasMark(Imperial)350Fahrenheit=180Celsius=4GasMark(Imperial)375Fahrenheit=190Celsius=5GasMark(Imperial)400Fahrenheit=200Celsius=6GasMark(Imperial)425Fahrenheit=220Celsius=7GasMark(Imperial)450Fahrenheit=230Celsius=8GasMark(Imperial)475Fahrenheit=245Celsius=9GasMark(Imperial)

CONVERTINGTEMPERATURESFROMANINSTANT-READTHERMOMETER

Weincludedonenesstemperaturesinmanyoftherecipesinthisbook.Werecommendaninstant-readthermometerforthejob.RefertotheabovetabletoconvertFahrenheitdegreestoCelsius.Or,fortemperaturesnotrepresentedinthechart,usethissimpleformula:Subtract32degreesfromtheFahrenheitreading,thendividetheresultby1.8tofindtheCelsiusreading.

EXAMPLE:

“Roastchickenuntilthighsregister175degrees.”Toconvert:175°F–32=143°143°÷1.8=79.44°C,roundeddownto79°C

MasterRecipeIndex

CHAPTER1:NEWENGLANDANDTHEMID-ATLANTIC

ChickenSpiedies

ChickenàlaKingToastedItalianBread

ChickenRiggies

UticaGreens

CityChicken

NewEnglandBarPizza

CommonCrackers

RhodeIslandRedClamChowderGarlicToasts

ClassicCornChowder

withAndouilleandBellPepperwithChorizoandChileswithSweetPotatoesandCayennewithProsciuttoandSage

JoeBookerStew

WaldorfSaladwithDriedCherriesandPecanswithRedGrapesandAlmondsCurriedWaldorfSaladwithGreenGrapesandPeanuts

PotatoKnishes

Bialys

BallparkPretzels

RhodeIslandJohnnycakesMapleButter

PotatoBiscuitswithChiveswithCheddarandScallionswithBacon

GarlicKnots

AnadamaBread

HermitCookies

PotatoChipCookiesChocolate-DippedPotatoChipCookies

BostonCreamCupcakes

WellesleyFudgeCake

BeeStingCake

MapleSyrupPieCrèmeFraîche

MarlboroughApplePie

LemonSnow

CHAPTER2:APPALACHIAANDTHESOUTH

FootballSandwichesPastramiandSwissFootballSandwiches

MarylandCrabFluffCocktailSauce

OysterPo’Boys

SenateNavyBeanSoup

KentuckyBurgoo

CarolinaChickenBog

ChickenBonneFemme

MemphisSpareribs

CountryHamJezebelSauce

BiscuitDressing

FriedCatfishComebackSauce

ShrimpÉtoufféeWhiteRice

BakedCheeseGrits

FriedGreenTomatoes

CaramelTomatoes

CarolinaRedSlaw

LowcountryRedRice

DirtyRice

RedBeansandRice

Hoppin’John

HamSteakwithRed-EyeGravyShort-OrderHomeFries

HushpuppiesCornandRedPepperHushpuppiesCrabandChiveHushpuppiesHamandCheddarHushpuppies

SweetPotatoBiscuits

CreamCheeseBiscuitsChocolateGravy

BlackberryJamCake

MoravianSugarCake

JeffersonDavisPieBourbonWhippedCream

FudgyTarHeelPie

PeanutButterPiewithChocolateGrahamCrustHomemadeCandiedPeanuts

ThoroughbredPie

GrasshopperPie

ButtermilkPie

CHAPTER3:THEMIDWESTANDGREATPLAINS

CheeseFrenchees

IowaSkinnies

IronRangePorketta

Chicago-StyleItalianBeefSandwichesQuickJus

GreenBayBooyah

KnoephlaSoup

BarbertonFriedChickenBarbertonHotSauce

ChickenVesuvio

SteakdeBurgo

Bierocks

KielbasaCasserole

PorkChopCasserole

Crumb-CoatedBakedHamHotMustardSauce

HoppelPoppel

GoettaPerfectFriedEggs

SwedishPancakes

DillyCasseroleBread

SandTarts

Kringle

BlueberryBoyBait

St.LouisGooeyButterCakeButterscotchGooeyButterCakeChocolateGooeyButterCake

Buckeyes

CHAPTER4:TEXASANDTHEWEST

CrispyBeefTaquitos

MontereyChickenPicodeGallo

OklahomaBarbecuedChoppedPorkOklahomaBarbecueRelish

KaluaPork

MulliganStew

CarneAdovada

HollywoodChili

KingRanchCasserole

TexasCaviar

WildRiceDressingDriedFruitandNutWildRiceDressingLeekandMushroomWildRiceDressing

HawaiianFriedRiceFauxLeftoverRice

Tex-MexRice

CornflakeStuffing

JoJoPotatoesRanchDressing

FuneralPotatoes

HeavenlyHots

MillionairePie

Black-BottomPie

A|B|C|D|E|F|G|H|I|J|K|L|M|N|O|P|Q|R|S|T|U|V|W|X|Y|Z

AAlmonds

BeeStingCake

andRedGrapes,WaldorfSaladwith

SandTarts

AnadamaBread

Andouille

andBellPepper,CornChowderwith

MaqueChoux

RedBeansandRice

Appetizers

CrispyBeefTaquitos

MarylandCrabFluff

Apple(s)

CurriedWaldorfSaladwithGreenGrapesandPeanuts

Pie,Marlborough

WaldorfSalad

WaldorfSaladwithDriedCherriesandPecans

WaldorfSaladwithRedGrapesandAlmonds

AvocadoSauce

BBabka

MontereyChicken

PotatoBiscuitswith

raw,freezing

BakedCheeseGrits

Bakingpowdervs.bakingsoda

BallparkPretzels

BarbecueSauce

BarbertonHotSauce

Barley

MulliganStew

Bean(s)

Barbecue,SmokyKansasCity

BostonBaked,Quicker

canned,rinsing

CrispyBeefTaquitos

Green,Southern-Style

green,trimmingendsof

HollywoodChili

Hoppin’John

KentuckyBurgoo

MulliganStew

Navy,Soup,Senate

Red,andRice

red,foodsafetyconcernsabout

TexasCaviar

Bierocks

Brisket,Oven-Barbecued

chuck-eyeroast,dividing

Corned,andCabbage

GreenBayBooyah

HollywoodChili

JoeBookerStew

MulliganStew

PastramiandSwissFootballSandwiches

QuickJus

Roast,Chicago-StyleItalian

Sandwiches,Chicago-StyleItalian

ShortRibs,IndoorBarbecue

SteakdeBurgo

Taquitos,Crispy

andBrats,Grilled,Wisconsin

CheddarSoup,Wisconsin

BeeStingCake

Berries

seealsoBlueberry(ies)

Betty,descriptionof

Bialys

Bierocks

Biscuit(s)

CreamCheese

Dressing

Potato,withBacon

Potato,withCheddarandScallions

Potato,withChives

andSausageGravy

SweetPotato

BlackberryJamCake

Black-BottomPie

Black-eyedpeas

Hoppin’John

TexasCaviar

Blueberry(ies)

BoyBait

Cobbler,Texas

Crumble,Summer

CrumblewithoutaFoodProcessor

fresh,typesof

frozen,bakingwith

Bluecheese

DressingforBonelessBuffaloChicken

Booyah,GreenBay

BostonCreamCupcakes

Bourbon

ThoroughbredPie

WhippedCream

BratsandBeer,WisconsinGrilled

Breads

Anadama

BallparkPretzels

Bialys

CommonCrackers

DillyCasserole

GarlicKnots

GarlicToasts

Italian,Toasted

seealsoBiscuit(s)

Broth,freezing

Buckeyes

Buckle,descriptionof

Burgers

Shrimp,SouthCarolina

Burgoo,Kentucky

Butter,Maple

ButtermilkPie

ButterscotchGooeyButterCake

CCabbage

Bierocks

CarolinaRedSlaw

CornedBeefand

cuttingintowedges

GreenBayBooyah

MulliganStew

OklahomaBarbecueRelish

PorkChopCasserole

shreddinganddraining

seealsoSauerkraut

BeeSting

BlackberryJam

BlueberryBoyBait

BostonCreamCupcakes

CranberryUpside-Down

GooeyButter,Butterscotch

GooeyButter,Chocolate

GooeyButter,St.Louis

MoravianSugar

WellesleyFudge

CaramelTomatoes

CarneAdovada

CarolinaChickenBog

CarolinaRedSlaw

Carrots

Cider-GlazedRootVegetables

JoeBookerStew

MulliganStew

PorkChopCasserole

Casseroles

ChilesRellenos

Kielbasa

KingRanch

PorkChop

Catfish,Fried

Cheddar(Cheese)

BakedCheeseGrits

BeerSoup,Wisconsin

colorandtaste

extra-sharp,about

FuneralPotatoes

andHamHushpuppies

HoppelPoppel

NewEnglandBarPizza

andScallions,PotatoBiscuitswith

Cheese

Bierocks

cheddar,colorandtaste

cheddar,extra-sharp,about

ChickenRiggies

Cream,Biscuits

DillyCasseroleBread

DressingforBonelessBuffaloChicken

FootballSandwiches

Frenchees

FuneralPotatoes

Grits,Baked

HamandCheddarHushpuppies

HoppelPoppel

JoJoPotatoes

KingRanchCasserole

MontereyChicken

NewEnglandBarPizza

Parmesan,grating

PotatoBiscuitswithCheddarandScallions

UticaGreens

Cherries,Dried,andPecans,WaldorfSaladwith

Chicken

àlaKing

Bog,Carolina

BonelessBuffalo

BonneFemme

CountryCaptain

Fried,Barberton

GreenBayBooyah

KentuckyBurgoo

KingRanchCasserole

KnoephlaSoup

MarylandFried,andGravy,Authentic

Monterey

raw,rinsing

Riggies

Spiedies

Vesuvio

Chickenlivers

DirtyRice

Chiles

BarbertonHotSauce

andChorizo,CornChowderwith

dried,prepping

jalapeños,gaugingheatin

KingRanchCasserole

inNewMexico

RellenosCasserole

TexasCaviar

Tex-MexRice

CarneAdovada

Hollywood

Chives,PotatoBiscuitswith

Chocolate

Black-BottomPie

BostonCreamCupcakes

Buckeyes

-DippedPotatoChipCookies

FudgyTarHeelPie

GooeyButterCake

GrahamCrust,PeanutButterPiewith

GrasshopperPie

Puffs,HarveyHouse

semisweetvs.bittersweet

ThoroughbredPie

WellesleyFudgeCake

ChorizoandChiles,CornChowderwith

Chowder

Clam,EasyNewEngland

Clam,RhodeIslandRed

Corn,Classic

Corn,withAndouilleandBellPepper

Corn,withChorizoandChiles

Corn,withProsciuttoandSage

Corn,withSweetPotatoesandCayenne

Fish,NewEngland

-GlazedRootVegetables

-GlazedRootVegetableswithPomegranateandCilantro

hard,revivalof

originsof

Cilantrostems,noteabout

Cinnamon

MoravianSugarCake

CityChicken

ClamChowder

EasyNewEngland

RhodeIslandRed

ClassicCornChowder

Cobbler

Blueberry,Texas

descriptionof

CocktailSauce

ColbyJackcheese

Bierocks

KingRanchCasserole

ComebackSauce

CommonCrackers

Cookies

Hermit

PotatoChip

PotatoChip,Chocolate-Dipped

SandTarts

Chowder,Classic

ChowderwithAndouilleandBellPepper

ChowderwithChorizoandChiles

ChowderwithProsciuttoandSage

ChowderwithSweetPotatoesandCayenne

cuttingkernelsfrom

KentuckyBurgoo

MaqueChoux

andRedPepperHushpuppies

shoppingforandstoring

CornflakeStuffing

Cornmeal

AnadamaBread

CornandRedPepperHushpuppies

CrabandChiveHushpuppies

FriedCatfish

FriedGreenTomatoes

Hushpuppies

Cottagecheese

DillyCasseroleBread

CountryHam

andChiveHushpuppies

Fluff,Maryland

Crackers,Common

CreamCheese

Biscuits

CrèmeFraîche

Crumb-CoatedBakedHam

Crumble

descriptionof

SummerBlueberry

withoutaFoodProcessor

Cupcakes,BostonCream

DDates

JeffersonDavisPie

Desserts

BeeStingCake

BlackberryJamCake

Black-BottomPie

BlueberryBoyBait

BostonCreamCupcakes

Buckeyes

ButtermilkPie

ButterscotchGooeyButterCake

Chocolate-DippedPotatoChipCookies

ChocolateGooeyButterCake

FudgyTarHeelPie

GrasshopperPie

HermitCookies

JeffersonDavisPie

Kringle

LemonSnow

MapleSyrupPie

MarlboroughApplePie

MillionairePie

MoravianSugarCake

old-fashionedfruit,typesof

PeanutButterPie

PeanutButterPiewithChocolateGrahamCrust

PotatoChipCookies

SandTarts

St.LouisGooeyButterCake

SwedishPancakes

ThoroughbredPie

WellesleyFudgeCake

Dill–SourCreamSauce

DillyCasseroleBread

DirtyRice

Dressing(dips)

forBonelessBuffaloChicken

Dressing(sidedishes)

Biscuit

DriedFruitandNutWildRice

LeekandMushroomWildRice

WildRice

DriedFruitandNutWildRiceDressing

EEasyNewEnglandClamChowder

Eatinglocal

Al’sItalianBeef(Chicago,IL)

BelgradeGardens(Barberton,OH)

Benji’sDeli(Milwaukee,WI)

BlueBayouRestaurant(Anaheim,CA)

CentralGrocery(NewOrleans,LA)

ChesterfieldRestaurant(Utica,NY)

CobbCookGrocery(Hibbing,MN)

CountryClubBakery(Fairmont,WV)

Fraboni’s(Hibbing,MN)

FranklinBarbecue(Austin,TX)

Geno’sSteaks(Philadelphia,PA)

Georgio’sVillage(NewHartford,NY)

HarryCaray’sItalianSteakhouse(Chicago,IL)

InternationalBar-B-QFestival(Owensboro,KY)

JohnnyCakeFestival(Richmond,RI)

Kossar’sBialys(NewYork,NY)

LexingtonBarbecue(Lexington,NC)

LorisBog-OffFestival(Loris,SC)

LottaBullBBQ(Marietta,OK)

LouieMuellerBarbecue(Taylor,TX)

LynwoodCafé(Randolph,MA)

MoonliteBar-B-QInn(Owensboro,KY)

O&HDanishBakery(Racine,WI)

Pat’sKingofSteaks(Philadelphia,PA)

RunzaRestaurant(Lincoln,NE)

ShrimpShack(St.HelenaIsland,SC)

SonkerFestival(Lowgap,NC)

SpiedieFest(Binghamton,NY)

TaylorGrocery(Taylor,MS)

Taylor’sMaid-Rite(Marshalltown,IA)

Teddy’sRestaurant(Rome,NY)

Ted’sRestaurant(Meriden,CT)

WinklerBakery(Winston-Salem,NC)

Fried,Perfect

HawaiianFriedRice

HoppelPoppel

Escarole

UticaGreens

FFatback,about

FauxLeftoverRice

Chowder,NewEngland

FriedCatfish

FootballSandwiches

Frenchees,Cheese

FriedCatfish

FriedGreenTomatoes

Fritoscornchips

KingRanchCasserole

Dried,andNutWildRiceDressing

seealsospecificfruits

Fryingfoods,tipsfor

FudgyTarHeelPie

FuneralPotatoes

GGarlic

Toasts

Giardiniera,jarred

Ginger

HermitCookies

Goetta

GooeyButterCake

Butterscotch

Chocolate

St.Louis

Grahamcrackers

PeanutButterPie

Grains

BakedCheeseGrits

barley,about

Goetta

MulliganStew

seealsoCornmeal;Rice

Grapes

Green,andPeanuts,CurriedWaldorfSaladwith

Red,andAlmonds,WaldorfSaladwith

GrasshopperPie

AuthenticMarylandFriedChickenand

Chocolate

Country-FriedPorkwith

Red-Eye,HamSteakwith

Sausage,Biscuitsand

GreenBayBooyah

GreenBeans

MulliganStew

Southern-Style

trimmingendsof

Greens

preppingkale

seealsoCabbage,Kale

Grilleddishes

ChickenSpiedies

KaluaPork

MemphisSpareribs

MontereyChicken

Grits,BakedCheese

Grunt,descriptionof

Baked,Crumb-Coated

andCheddarHushpuppies

CornChowderwithProsciuttoandSage

Country

country,about

FootballSandwiches

HawaiianFriedRice

HoppelPoppel

Hoppin’John

MulliganStew

SenateNavyBeanSoup

SteakwithRed-EyeGravy

HawaiianFriedRice

HeavenlyHots

HermitCookies

HollywoodChili

HomeFries,Short-Order

HomemadeCandiedPeanuts

Hominy

HoppelPoppel

Hoppin’John

Horseradish

JezebelSauce

HotMustardSauce

Hushpuppies

CornandRedPepper

CrabandChive

HamandCheddar

IIndoorBarbecueBeefShortRibs

IowaSkinnies

IronRangePorketta

JJambalaya,PerfectShrimp

JeffersonDavisPie

JezebelSauce

JoeBookerStew

Johnnycakes,RhodeIsland

JoJoPotatoes

prepping

KaluaPork

KentuckyBurgoo

Kielbasa

CarolinaChickenBog

Casserole

KingRanchCasserole

Knishes,Potato

KnoephlaSoup

Kringle

KentuckyBurgoo

LeekandMushroomWildRiceDressing

LemonSnow

Livers

DirtyRice

LowcountryRedRice

MMaindishes

CarneAdovada

CarolinaChickenBog

ChickenàlaKing

ChickenBonneFemme

ChickenRiggies

ChickenVesuvio

CityChicken

CountryHam

Crumb-CoatedBakedHam

FriedCatfish

Goetta

HamSteakwithRed-EyeGravy

HollywoodChili

HoppelPoppel

Hoppin’John

JoeBookerStew

KaluaPork

KentuckyBurgoo

KielbasaCasserole

KingRanchCasserole

MemphisSpareribs

MontereyChicken

MulliganStew

NewEnglandBarPizza

PerfectFriedEggs

PorkChopCasserole

RedBeansandRice

ShrimpÉtouffée

SteakdeBurgo

seealsoBurgers;Sandwiches;SoupsMaple(Syrup)

Butter

pure,about

MaqueChoux

MarlboroughApplePie

MarylandCrabFluff

Meat.SeeBeef;Lamb;Pork

Meatloafmix

MemphisSpareribs

MillionairePie

Molasses

AnadamaBread

HermitCookies

MontereyChicken

MontereyJackcheese

MoravianSugarCake

Mozzarellacheese

NewEnglandBarPizza

Muffulettas,NewOrleans

MulliganStew

Mushroom(s)

ChickenàlaKing

ChickenRiggies

andLeekWildRiceDressing

Mustard

JezebelSauce

Sauce,Hot

yellow,about

NNewEnglandBarPizza

HomemadeCandiedPeanuts

PeanutButterPie

ThoroughbredPie

toasting

WaldorfSalad

seealsoAlmonds;Pecans

Goetta

OklahomaBarbecueRelish

OldBayseasoning,about

Olives

ChickenRiggies

Onions

Bialys

CornflakeStuffing

cutting,avoidingtearswhen

PotatoKnishes

OrangeStickyRolls,TickTock

Oyster(s)

Po’Boys

shucking

PPancakes

HeavenlyHots

Swedish

Pandowdy,descriptionof

Parmesan

grating

JoJoPotatoes

Parsleystems,noteabout

Parsnips

ChickenRiggies

Pastries

Kringle

PotatoKnishes

PeanutButter

Buckeyes

PiewithChocolateGrahamCrust

Peanuts

Candied,Homemade

andGreenGrapes,CurriedWaldorfSaladwith

PeanutButterPie

ChickenVesuvio

frozen,flavorof

Peas,black-eyed

Hoppin’John

TexasCaviar

Pecans

Chocolate-DippedPotatoChipCookies

andDriedCherries,WaldorfSaladwith

FudgyTarHeelPie

JeffersonDavisPie

Kringle

MillionairePie

PotatoChipCookies

PecorinoRomanocheese

ChickenRiggies

UticaGreens

PepperJackcheese

MontereyChicken

PepperoniRolls,WestVirginia

Pepper(s)

BarbertonHotSauce

Bell,andAndouille,CornChowderwith

ChickenàlaKing

ChickenRiggies

DirtyRice

HawaiianFriedRice

HollywoodChili

HoppelPoppel

LowcountryRedRice

MaqueChoux

Red,andCornHushpuppies

RedBeansandRice

ShrimpÉtouffée

TexasCaviar

UticaGreens

seealsoChiles

PerfectFriedEggs

PicodeGallo

Apple,Marlborough

Black-Bottom

Buttermilk

FudgyTarHeel

Grasshopper

JeffersonDavis

MapleSyrup

Millionaire

PeanutButter

PeanutButter,withChocolateGrahamCrust

Thoroughbred

Pineapple

HawaiianFriedRice

JezebelSauce

MillionairePie

prepping

Pizza,NewEnglandBar

Po’Boys,Oyster

PomegranateandCilantro,Cider-GlazedRootVegetableswith

CarneAdovada

ChopCasserole

Chopped,OklahomaBarbecued

chops,typesof

ChopswithTomatoGravy

CityChicken

Country-Fried,withGravy

cutlets,preparing

DirtyRice

enhanced,about

fatback,about

HollywoodChili

HoppelPoppel

internalcookingtemperatures

IowaSkinnies

IronRangePorketta

MemphisSpareribs

salt,about

Stew,NewMexican(Posole)

UticaGreens

seealsoBacon;Ham;Sausage(s)Posole(NewMexicanPorkStew)

PotatoChip(s)

Cookies

Cookies,Chocolate-Dipped

historyof

Potato(es)

BiscuitswithBacon

BiscuitswithCheddarandScallions

BiscuitswithChives

ChickenBonneFemme

ChickenVesuvio

ClassicCornChowder

CornChowderwithAndouilleandBellPepper

CornChowderwithChorizoandChiles

CornChowderwithProsciuttoandSage

Funeral

GreenBayBooyah

HoppelPoppel

JoeBookerStew

KentuckyBurgoo

KielbasaCasserole

Knishes

KnoephlaSoup

MulliganStew

RhodeIslandRedClamChowder

SenateNavyBeanSoup

Short-OrderHomeFries

seealsoSweetPotato(es)

Poultry.SeeChicken;Turkey

Pretzels,Ballpark

ProsciuttoandSage,CornChowderwith

Provolonecheese

QQuickerBostonBakedBeans

QuickJus

RRaisins

HermitCookies

JeffersonDavisPie

WaldorfSalad

RanchDressing

RedBeansandRice

Relish,OklahomaBarbecue

ReubenSandwiches,TheBest

CarolinaChickenBog

FauxLeftover

HawaiianFried

Hoppin’John

long-grain,about

LowcountryRed

RedBeansand

rinsing

Tex-Mex

Wild,Dressing

Wild,Dressing,DriedFruitandNut

Wild,Dressing,LeekandMushroom

Rutabaga

GreenBayBooyah

JoeBookerStew

SSalads

CarolinaRedSlaw

TexasCaviar

Waldorf

Waldorf,Curried,withGreenGrapesandPeanuts

Waldorf,withDriedCherriesandPecans

Waldorf,withRedGrapesandAlmonds

Saltpork,about

SandTarts

Sandwiches

Beef,Chicago-StyleItalian

Bierocks

CheeseFrenchees

ChickenSpiedies

Football

IowaLooseMeat

IowaSkinnies

IronRangePorketta

MonteCristo

OysterPo’Boys

Prosperity

Reuben,TheBest

seealsoBurgers

Sauces

Avocado

Barbecue

Cocktail

Comeback

Hot,Barberton

HotMustard

Jezebel

PicodeGallo

QuickJus

SourCream–Dill

Tartar

seealsoGravy

Sauerkraut

buying

KielbasaCasserole

Sausage(s)

CarolinaChickenBog

CornChowderwithAndouilleandBellPepper

CornChowderwithChorizoandChiles

Goetta

Gravy,Biscuitsand

HoppelPoppel

KielbasaCasserole

MaqueChoux

RedBeansandRice

Seafood.SeeFish;Shellfish

SenateNavyBeanSoup

Shellfish

MarylandCrabFluff

OysterPo’Boys

oysters,shucking

shrimp,peelinganddeveining

ShrimpÉtouffée

Shrimp

Boil,SouthCarolina

Burgers,SouthCarolina

Étouffée

Jambalaya,Perfect

MaqueChouxwith

peelinganddeveining

BakedCheeseGrits

Bialys

BiscuitDressing

CaramelTomatoes

CarolinaRedSlaw

CornandRedPepperHushpuppies

CornflakeStuffing

DirtyRice

FriedGreenTomatoes

FuneralPotatoes

GarlicToasts

HawaiianFriedRice

Hushpuppies

JoJoPotatoes

LeekandMushroomWildRiceDressing

LowcountryRedRice

MaqueChoux

PotatoKnishes

RedBeansandRice

TexasCaviar

Tex-MexRice

ToastedItalianBread

UticaGreens

WaldorfSalad

WaldorfSaladwithDriedCherriesandPecans

WaldorfSaladwithRedGrapesandAlmonds

WhiteRice

WildRiceDressing

Slaw,CarolinaRed

Snow,usedinrecipes

Sonker,CarolinaSweetPotato

CheddarBeer,Wisconsin

GreenBayBooyah

Knoephla

NavyBean,Senate

PittsburghWedding

seealsoChowder;Stews

SourCream

–DillSauce

substitutingyogurtfor

Spiedies,Chicken

St.LouisGooeyButterCake

SteakdeBurgo

CarneAdovada

HollywoodChili

JoeBooker

KentuckyBurgoo

Mulligan

Pork,NewMexican(Posole)

StickyRolls,Orange,TickTock

Strawberries

Stuffing,Cornflake

Sugar,confectioners’

dustingwith

makingyourown

SwedishPancakes

SweetPotato(es)

Biscuits

andCayenne,CornChowderwith

choosing

Sonker,Carolina

Swisscheese

FootballSandwiches

TTaquitos,CrispyBeef

TartarSauce

TexasCaviar

Tex-MexRice

ThoroughbredPie

ToastedItalianBread

Tomato(es)

BarbertonHotSauce

Caramel

ChickenRiggies

Gravy,PorkChopswith

Green,Fried

GreenBayBooyah

LowcountryRedRice

MaqueChoux

NewEnglandBarPizza

peeling

PicodeGallo

ShrimpÉtouffée

Tex-MexRice

Tortillas

CrispyBeefTaquitos

KingRanchCasserole

Turkey

Turnips

MulliganStew

prepping

UUticaGreens

VVegetables

Root,Cider-Glazed

Root,Cider-Glazed,withPomegranateandCilantro

seealsospecificvegetables

Vermouth,aswinesubstitute

WWaldorfSalad

Curried,withGreenGrapesandPeanuts

withDriedCherriesandPecans

withRedGrapesandAlmonds

Walnuts

ThoroughbredPie

WaldorfSalad

WellesleyFudgeCake

WhippedCream,Bourbon

WhiteRice

WildRice

Dressing

Dressing,DriedFruitandNut

Dressing,LeekandMushroom

Wine,substitutingvermouthfor

Woodchips,soaking

YYeast,about

Yogurt,assubstituteforsourcream

Cook's Country eats local : 150 regional recipes you should be making no matter where you live

Documents

Cook's Illustrated 087

Cook's Illustrated 091

Cook's Illustrated - 71

COOK'S POLE CLIMBING APPARATUS - orchidscientific.com · COOK'S POLE CLIMBING APPARATUS For the study of antipsychotic drugs. ﬁc.com ®

500 Recipes Cook's Bible.pdf

Cook's Illustrated 088

Cook's Illustrated 084

Cook's Illustrated 073

Cook's Illustrated 096

Cook's Illustrated 080

Cook's Illustrated 081

Cook's Country - November 2015

Cook's Illustrated 070

Cook's Illustrated 082

Cook's Illustrated Smoothies

Cook's Illustrated 075

Charlie Cook's Favourite Book

Cook's Illustrated 074

Street Eats Safe Eats

Cook's Illustrated 071