Claire McCardell - Drexel Universitynp44/FASH201/Claire McCardell1905.pdf · Claire McCardell...

Claire M cCardellClaire M cCardellFounder of American Founder of American

ReadyReady--toto--WearWear

BackgroundBackground

Born on May 24Born on May 24thth 1905 in Frederick 1905 in Frederick MarylandMarylandShe studied at Parson’s School of DesignShe studied at Parson’s School of DesignHer career started by working as a model Her career started by working as a model and assistant designer for Robert Turk.and assistant designer for Robert Turk.Later on she designed clothes under the Later on she designed clothes under the label label TownleyTownley Frock by Claire McCardellFrock by Claire McCardell..

Philosophy on StylePhilosophy on Style

Her casual, but sophisticated clothes with Her casual, but sophisticated clothes with functional designs reflected the lifestyles functional designs reflected the lifestyles of the American woman in the 40s and of the American woman in the 40s and 50s.50s.McCardell pioneered casual, comfortable McCardell pioneered casual, comfortable American sportswear for women.American sportswear for women.

Philosophy on StylePhilosophy on Style

She believed that women’s clothes should She believed that women’s clothes should be durable, versatile, comfortable, be durable, versatile, comfortable, flattering, and easy to care for.flattering, and easy to care for.“I’ve always wondered why women’s “I’ve always wondered why women’s

clothes had to be delicate clothes had to be delicate –– why they why they couldn’t be practical and sturdy as well as couldn’t be practical and sturdy as well as feminine.”feminine.”

InfluencesInfluences

While studying for a year in Paris she While studying for a year in Paris she redrafted designs by Chanel and Vionnet.redrafted designs by Chanel and Vionnet.This led the way for her own style.This led the way for her own style.

Vionnet’sVionnet’s InfluenceInfluence

McCardell was able to simplify McCardell was able to simplify Vionnet’sVionnet’scut in order to create readycut in order to create ready--toto--wear wear designs.designs.Vionnet’sVionnet’s bias cut idea is incorporated into bias cut idea is incorporated into many of many of McCardell’sMcCardell’s designs.designs.

Chanel’sChanel’s InfluenceInfluence

McCardell updated McCardell updated Chanel’sChanel’s “little black “little black dress”dress”In 1946 she created the “Baby Dress” In 1946 she created the “Baby Dress” which resembled which resembled Chanel’sChanel’s

Design TrademarksDesign Trademarks

Wrap around effectsWrap around effectsSpaghetti shoulder straps or beltsSpaghetti shoulder straps or beltsShortsShortsDirndl skirtsDirndl skirtsStriped cottonStriped cottonDENIMDENIMDouble topDouble top--stitchingstitchingBrass hardware replacing buttonsBrass hardware replacing buttonsLarge patch pocketsLarge patch pocketsMany waistlinesMany waistlines

M ajor ContributionsM ajor Contributions

Popover DressPopover Dress--19421942•• Unstructured, waist less, wraparound dress, made of Unstructured, waist less, wraparound dress, made of

unpretentious materials such as denim and calico.unpretentious materials such as denim and calico.•• “You just pop it over something nicer underneath”“You just pop it over something nicer underneath”

Monastic DressMonastic Dress-- 19381938•• WaistlessWaistless, , dartlessdartless, bias, bias--cut tent dress made of wool cut tent dress made of wool

jerseyjersey•• Caused a sensation in 1938Caused a sensation in 1938•• Extremely radical for that time periodExtremely radical for that time period

This is an example of what the Popover dress looked like.

Swimsuit StylesSwimsuit Styles

She used non traditional fabrics in her She used non traditional fabrics in her designs like wool and cotton.designs like wool and cotton.Halter necks, hoods, sleeves, and Halter necks, hoods, sleeves, and wrapped waists are other features you wrapped waists are other features you would see in her designs.would see in her designs.

Adapting to the times…Adapting to the times…

WWII actually helped her career rather WWII actually helped her career rather than hurt it.than hurt it.She adapted well to the war because the She adapted well to the war because the guideline set by the government didn’t guideline set by the government didn’t effect her simple style of design.effect her simple style of design.When shoes were rationed she introduced When shoes were rationed she introduced the ballet slipper as street wear.the ballet slipper as street wear.

Adapting to the times…Adapting to the times…

Travel was becoming more popular and the Travel was becoming more popular and the clothes of the time didn’t travel well.clothes of the time didn’t travel well.McCardell designed a sixMcCardell designed a six--piece interchangeable, piece interchangeable, coordinated wardrobe of separates that allowed coordinated wardrobe of separates that allowed women to have a variety of choices with just a women to have a variety of choices with just a few garments.few garments.By the 1950s, her success earned her By the 1950s, her success earned her international recognition and led to international recognition and led to collaborations with such renowned artists as collaborations with such renowned artists as Picasso, Picasso, MiroMiro, and Chagall, all of whom , and Chagall, all of whom designed fabrics for designed fabrics for McCardell'sMcCardell's 1955 1955 collections. collections.

Claire McCardellClaire McCardell"One of the most important fashion designers of "One of the most important fashion designers of the 20th Century, Claire McCardell helped the 20th Century, Claire McCardell helped create "The American Look." McCardell create "The American Look." McCardell pioneered the American style of casual pioneered the American style of casual sportswear.sportswear.

Fashion W alk of FameFashion W alk of Fame

Fashion W alk of FameFashion W alk of Fame

Inspired by active wear and menswear, she Inspired by active wear and menswear, she made practical, comfortable and wearable made practical, comfortable and wearable clothes. She was dedicated to the clothes. She was dedicated to the democratization of fashion. As she once democratization of fashion. As she once said, "I belong to a mass production said, "I belong to a mass production country where any of us, all of us, deserve country where any of us, all of us, deserve the right to good fashion."the right to good fashion."

The dress on the left is Chanel’sand on the right is McCardell’s.