View
212
Download
0
Category
Preview:
Citation preview
3/10/2009
1
THE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIOD
C H A P T E R E L E V E N
c. 1790 - 1820
Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close
the presentation or to open the help page.
Check for updates on the web now!
One of the most significant events marking the turn from the 18th to the 19th Century was the French Revolution
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
2C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
• The Red Cap of Liberty• Trousers of the working man
replaced the knee breeches of the aristocratic old regime
• The Revolutionary Cockade
Supporters of the Revolution adopted elements of dress that symbolized their political views.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
3C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
3/10/2009
2
By the end of the revolution and the installation of a government consisting of a Directory (Directoire) of three men, styles had altered.
c.1790
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
4C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
c.1800c.1790 c.1790
Female fashion extremists were called Merveilleuses (The Marvelous Ones) and the men were called Incroyables (The Incredible Ones).
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
5C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Fashion echoed the excesses of the Revolution in styles such as the Haircut a la Victime, cut short like women going to the guillotine, or
red velvet ribbons worn around the neck.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
6C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
3/10/2009
3
As the rest of the western world followed the new styles, women wore these layers.
Closest to the skin some women wore long drawers, called pantalettes, with lace, ruffles or pleats at the edges that
showed at the hem of dresses. This style did not persist throughout the period,
except as a style for children
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
7C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
except as a style for children.
Over the pantalettes, the chemise, which had a low neck and narrowed silhouette.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
8C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
The corset, like the dresses, was straight in line.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
9C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
3/10/2009
4
The next layer was a petticoat.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
10C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
The high waisted, relatively straight silhouette of c.1800 to 1820 came to be known as the Empire Line. It was named for the new French ruler,
the Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte.
X
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
11C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Click to see Napoleon
While the empire silhouette continued to dominate, a variety of sleeve and neckline styles could be seen.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
12C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
3/10/2009
5
Out of doors women wore these garments.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
13C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
A coat-like garment, the pelisse, with an Empire silhouette.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
14C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
A shawl, often with the typical Kashmir pattern.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
15C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
3/10/2009
6
A Spencer, a short jacket cut to just below the bustline.
X
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
16C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Click to view
A variety of accessories were worn.
Reticule Cockade Fan
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
17C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Muff Shoes
When compared to the 18th Century, men’s dress of the Empire Period was subdued in color and lacked decoration. Gradually trousers
replaced knee breeches for day and evening. Exceptions were garments worn at the courts of France or England.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
18C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
3/10/2009
7
Underdrawers and undershirts did not change much.
X
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
19C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Click to view
The visible elements of men’s dress were his trousers, also called pantaloons, shirt , vest and coat.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
20C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Trousers, called pantaloons when very tightly fitted, often had straps that fit under the instep to keep them from riding up.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
21C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
3/10/2009
8
Shirts were cut full and had high, standing collars around which were wrapped cravats or stocks.
X
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
22C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Click to view
Over the shirt, a man wore a vest, also called a waistcoat.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
23C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Coat fronts generally ended at the waist, either curving gradually back from the waist into two tails that ended slightly above the knee, or with
a cut-in, a rounded or square space at the front where no skirt was attached. The tails began where the cut-in ended.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
24C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
3/10/2009
9
For outdoors men wore capes or overcoats.
Click Image to detail
X
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
25C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Click Image to view backClick Image to view front
Dressing gowns or banyans continued to be worn at home.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
26C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
A variety of accessories were worn.
Hats
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
27C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Cravat worn with shirt and with ruffled front
shirt.Spats or Gaiters Boots
3/10/2009
10
Little girls dresses were very similar to those of adult women. Small boys wore skeleton suits. Both styles carried over from the end of the
1700s.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
28C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Empire period style lines are revived periodically.
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
29C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
For Further Study
Illustrations Of Actual Costumes Or Illustrations From Contemporary Sourceshttp://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/rd/rd.htmlhttp://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1800to1825a.htmhttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tsnineteenth/1800-1829/1800-1829.htmlhttp://www.sensibility.com/vintageimages/1800s/http://www.costumes.org/TRAVEL/00pages/paris2001louvre2.htmhttp://www.costumegallery.com/
French Revolutionhttp://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/rschwart/hist255-
/ h k/ h h l
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
30C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
01/paris_homework/Fashion.html
Contemporary Documentshttp://humanities.ucsd.edu/courses/kuchtahum4/texts/sans-culotte.pdf
Dress For Special Occasionshttp://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/dress/mourn.html
3/10/2009
11
For Further Study
Accessorieshttp://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1800to1817costumesparisiens.htmhttp://austentation.tripod.com/jewels.htmlhttp://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~awoodley/regency/tie.htmlhttp://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Sh
oes/19th_Century.htm
Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama
Book Specialists.Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.
h h f l h k h k
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
31C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.
Image Credits
Various images used courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images.
Photo of Spenser Jacket courtesy of [ www.trousseau.net ].
Image of Fur Muff, courtesy of [ www.fashionsinime.com ].
Images of Men’s Shirt, courtesy of [ www.vintageshirt.co.uk ].
Image of Hessian and Top Boots, courtesy of [ www.sarahjuniper.co.uk ].
Various images courtesy of Dover Publications.
Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; [www.clipart.com]; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library;
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
32C H A P T E R E L E V E NTHE DIRECTOIRE PERIODAND THE EMPIRE PERIODc. 1790 - 1820
Recommended