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Bonjour Québec!A stroll along the lively streets of Montréal or Québec City? A jaunt through the Laurentians, the Charlevoix region or around Île d’Orléans? An excursion through the Gaspésie or Saguenay regions? How about an expedition into the far-off lands of Northern Québec? Wherever you go in Québec, this Ulysses Travel Guide is one travelling companion you won’t want to go without.
Ulysses offers an in-depth look at Québec’s history and culture, descriptions of scores of charming restaurants, hotels and B&Bs, plus countless ideas for outdoor activities across this unique province.
This guidebook featuresDescriptions of more than 1,000 attractions in every region of Québec, star-rated so you can spot the must-sees at a glance;
Suggestions for over 1,000 places to eat, sleep, shop and live it up, no matter what your budget or tastes;
Striking colour plates that bring the scenery to life;
Countless regional and city maps to help you find your way around.
Written by Quebecers, the Ulysses Travel Guide Québec is the most complete guide for your next vacation à la Québécoise!
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Tr a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r e
Québec
www.ulyssesguides.com
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Eastern QuébecNot to be missedWorth a visitInteresting
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The Seasons in QuébecQuébec folksinger Gilles Vigneault said it best: "Mon pays ce n'est pas un pays, c'est l'hiver" (my country is not a country, it is winter). Though this long, cold season is most closely associated with Québec, all four seasons leave their mark on the province: the cold freezes waterfalls into walls of ice in winter, waters rise and plants come to life with the spring thaw, bright sun and sometimes unbearable heat waves last through the summer until Indian summer, the final hurrah before the brilliant spectacle of the fall colours. Quebecers have learned to make the most of the many incarnations of their home, heading to the mountains, forests, lakes and mighty rivers no matter what the season...
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Félix Leclerc, a beloved Québécois folksinger, honoured the simple pleasures of spring in L'hymne au printemps: the calls of frogs and robins herald the arrival of spring: tiny buds on trees and bushes slowly grow into leaves and flowers, dandelions blanket the fields and the fresh smell of the earth returns to the air...
The St. Lawrence lowlands still bear the stamp of the old French seigneurial system, which divided the land into long, narrow rectangular plots in order to give the greatest possible number of colonists access to the waterways. Beyond the farmhouses that line the rangs (country roads), fields run on as far as the eye can see.
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A fisher's life is a hard one, requiring backbreaking work, endurance and patience. The bounty of those fishing in the Gulf of St. Lawrence includes crab, shrimp, scallops, turbot, halibut, herring and mackerel.
Québec is very rich in wildlife. Those who quietly explore the country’s parks and other rural areas may be delighted to encounter anything from racoons to moose, the latter often found near bodies of water, as pictured here.
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The remote and mysterious Îles de la Madeleine (Magdalen Islands) have been sculpted by the wind and the sea.
A land of lakes and rivers, Québec is a choice spot for a slew of water sports: canoeing, kayaking, sailing, windsurfing, fishing, rafting... and the list goes on.
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Country house, summer cottage or lakefront chalet...call it what you will, it is the dream of many an urban dweller in this province. What better way to pass the summer than out in the country, far from the heat and humidity of the city?
When fall arrives, the forests of Québec ignite with colour. This blaze of red, orange and gold transforms the countryside and is best experienced during those last warm days of Indian summer.
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These two huskies and their team members lead the way to adventure across Québec's winter landscape. Several companies have revived this traditional Inuit mode of transportation and today make it available to the public.
As soon as the waterways and lakes freeze over, the shacks go up, the hole in the ice is drilled and the ice fishing, or pêche blanche, season begins.
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Québec ArchitectureQuébec architecture is at once the result of a population adapting to a difficult climate and a synthesis of French, British and American influences. The photos in this section illustrate the evolution of Québec architecture, including both simple buildings erected by farmers and elaborate works designed by world-renowned architects.
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Marché Bonsecours, erected between 1845 and 1850, reflects mid-19th-century British colonial ambitions in Montréal. Its metallic dome, formidable portico, Tuscan pillars and sash windows are typically neoclassical—a very popular style throughout the British Empire during the first half of the 19th century.
For many years, Québec invested all of its creative energies in the interior decors of its churches, which resulted in veritable woodworking masterpieces. The choir of Église de la Visitation du Sault-au-Récollet (Montréal), designed by Philippe Liébert and David-Fleury David between 1764 and 1818, skillfully combines Louis XV and Louis XVI styles. The traditional combination of white and gold is embellished with bright colours.
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The inhabitants' sense of insecurity, along with the king's desire to better protect his colony, resulted in the towns and villages of New France being surrounded by wood or stone fortresses. A number of forts designed to slow down the enemy were also established. Indeed, the fortresses had to resist both the surprise attacks of hostile Aboriginal peoples as well as the British army, which would arrive by sea on war ships.
Throughout the 19th century, Quebecers endeavored to adapt to the climatic extremes of the St. Lawrence Valley by developing what was to become a traditional Québec architecture. For example, they raised the masonry foundation and adorned their houses with long verandas to prevent snow from piling on window sills. The decreased pitch of the roof kept snow from falling off, so it could serve as insulation.
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What makes Vieux Québec so charming is not only its great monuments but also its houses, each of which has its own story to tell. It is enjoyable to stroll through its narrow streets and observe the minute details of this compact architecture, losing oneself in an urban landscape that is quite unusual to most North Americans.
Colourful Victorian homes such as these, with impossibly steep or contorted exterior staircases, have become emblematic of Montréal.
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In 1851, Father Joseph Déziel decided to build a large Catholic church for his rapidly expanding city. It was Thomas Baillargé, the architect who designed many of Québec City's churches, who drew up the plans. The architecture featured at the Notre-Dame de Lévis church is a beautiful example of the Québécois neoclassical tendency, combining the French and English styles. The interior, divided into three naves, features high galleries with columns, and outside, a plaque marks the place where English cannons bombarded Québec City in 1759.
The Château Frontenac, a magnificent hotel, symbolizes Québec City. Designed by American architect Bruce Price, its style was influenced both by the castles of Scotland and those of the Loire region of France.
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The unique architecture of the Canadian Museum of Civilization in Gatineau was designed by Douglas Cardinal, an Aboriginal architect from Alberta. This museum is composed of two unusual, organically shaped structures.
The unique architecture of Montréal's Habitat ‘67, designed by Moshe Safdie, makes these posh condominiums resemble a pile of blocks.
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QuébecEighth Edition
Eastward, the view down the St. Lawrence towards the Gulf is the finest of all, scarcely surpassed by anything in the world. Your eye follows the range of lofty mountains until their blue summits are blended and lost in the blue of the sky.
Susanna Moodie, Roughing it in the Bush (1852)
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Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication
Main entry under title :
Québec
(Ulysses travel guide) Translation of: Le Québec. Includes index.
ISSN 1486-3502 ISBN 2-89464-711-5
1. Québec (Province) - Guidebooks. I. Series.
FC2907.Q4913 917.1404’5 C99-301663-4
Guide UpdatePierre Ledoux
Research and WritingFrançois Rémillard (Exploring)Benoit Prieur (Portrait)
Additional research and writing: Gabriel Audet, Caroline Béliveau, Julie Brodeur, Alexandre Chouinard, Daniel Desjardins, Alexandra Gilbert, Olivier Gougeon, Élodie Luquet, Stéphane G. Marceau, Jacqueline Grekin, François Hénault, Judith Lefebvre, Alain Legault, Claude Morneau, Yves Ouellet, Joël Pomerleau, Sylvie Rivard, Yves Séguin, Marcel Verreault.
Previous ContributorsVirginie Bonneau, Nathalie Boucher, Catherine Desforges, Simon Dubé, Claude Feuiltault, Annie Frenette, Séverine Giroux, Isabel Gosselin, Alain Legault, Jennifer McMorran, Francis Plourde, Marc Rigole, Steve Rioux, Christian Roy, Maxime Soucy, Christopher Woodward.
PublisherOlivier Gougeon
Production DirectorAndré Duchesne
Copy EditingCindy Garayt
Computer GraphicsMarie-France DenisIsabelle Lalonde
CartographersPascal BietBradley Fenton
PhotographyCover pageFrançois Rivard / ATR CharlevoixInside pagesPatrick EscuderoPhilippe Renault
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, without the written permission of the publisher.
© June 2006, Ulysses Travel GuidesAll rights reserved Printed in CanadaISBN 2-89464-711-5
Acknowledgements We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program (BPIDP) for our publishing activities. We would also like to thank the Government of Québec – Tax credit for book publishing – Administered by SODEC.
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Île auxAllumettes
Île du GrandCalumet
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RéservoirBaskatong
LacSimard
La Pêche
Arnprior
Buckingham
Gatineau
Bouchette
Kazabazua
Notre-Dame-du-Laus
Maniwaki
Otter Lake
Ladysmith
Shawville
Renfrew
Watham
Rapide-des-Joachims
Petawawa
PembrokeThornby
Grand-Remous
Ferme-Neuve
Louvicourt
Senneterre
St-Mathieu-d'HarricanaSt-Marc
Sullivan
Rivière-Héva
Amos
Val-d'Or
Malartic
D'Alembert
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Duparquet
Évain Rouyn-Noranda
Ville-Marie BelleterreLatulipe
Rollet
Virginiatown
Rouliers
Nédélec
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Rémigny
Mattawa
Témiscaming
Wakefield
Aylmer
RéserveFaunique
La Vérendrye
Parc Nationald'Aiguebelle
GatineauPark
Ottawa
ABITIBI-TÉMISCAMINGUE
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O N TAR I O
Cratère duNouveau-Québec
Îled'Anticosti
AménagementRobert Bourassa
HudsonBay
JamesBay
UngavaBay
Hudson Strait
Kawawachikamach
Killiniq
Kuujjuaq
Aupaluk
Kangirsuk
Quaqtaq
KangiqsujuaqSalluit
Ivujivik
Puvirnituq(Povungnituk)
Inukjuak
Umiujaq
WuapmagoostuiSchefferville
Nemiscau
Laforge
Fontanges Brisay
NitchequonWemindjiEastmain
Chisasibi
Waskaganish
Radisson
Kuujjuarapik
Kangiqsualujjuaq
Rimouski
MataneGaspé
Fermont
MatagamiWaswanipi
Oujé-Bougoumou
Val-d'Or
Amos
Rouyn-Noranda
Chibougamau
Mistissini
Roberval
Sept-Îles
Baie-ComeauABITIBI-TÉMISCAMINGUE
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£14.99$27.95 USD$29.95 CAD
Bonjour Québec!A stroll along the lively streets of Montréal or Québec City? A jaunt through the Laurentians, the Charlevoix region or around Île d’Orléans? An excursion through the Gaspésie or Saguenay regions? How about an expedition into the far-off lands of Northern Québec? Wherever you go in Québec, this Ulysses Travel Guide is one travelling companion you won’t want to go without.
Ulysses offers an in-depth look at Québec’s history and culture, descriptions of scores of charming restaurants, hotels and B&Bs, plus countless ideas for outdoor activities across this unique province.
This guidebook featuresDescriptions of more than 1,000 attractions in every region of Québec, star-rated so you can spot the must-sees at a glance;
Suggestions for over 1,000 places to eat, sleep, shop and live it up, no matter what your budget or tastes;
Striking colour plates that bring the scenery to life;
Countless regional and city maps to help you find your way around.
Written by Quebecers, the Ulysses Travel Guide Québec is the most complete guide for your next vacation à la Québécoise!
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Tr a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r e
Québec
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