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Emerging market for new colourants
Marché émergeant pour denouveaux colorants
Pleins feux sur l’Iran
De nouvelles méthodes de coupe font la loi
Revue d’ITMA Asie et CITME 2014
Spotlight on Iran
New ‘cutting’ edge methods rule the roost
ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 review
ITMA + CITME 2014 is the combinationof two high-quality brands
ISSUE TWO 2014DEUXIÈME EDITION 2014
AFTEX Cover Issue 2 2014_cover.qxd 06/05/2014 11:52 Page 1
TEXTILE
www.staubli.comwww.staubli.com/textile
Les systèmes haute technologie Stäubli pour ateliers de tissage modernes vont au-delà de toutes les attentes. N’attendez pas plus longtemps pour améliorer vos performances et votre productivité. Nos solutions d’avenir pour la préparation au tissage et la formation de la foule vous permettent de franchir une nouvelle étape en matière d’ef-fi cacité. Et cela, sans aucun compromis sur la qualité. Les systèmes Stäubli se distinguent en effet depuis plus d’un siècle par leur extrême précision et leur fi abilité. Cela a éveillé votre curiosité ? Contactez votre spécialiste Stäubli local.
Entrez d’un bond dans une nouvelle dimension.
S01 AFTEX 2 2014 - Start_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:54 Page 2
Developments 4News of recent textile projects, markets, contracts and events
Spotlight on Iran 6Iran needs more textile business
Piracy 7Ghana tackles counterfeiting with an iron hand
Colourants 12World market sees emergence of new dyes and auxiliaries
ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 16China gears up for the fourth edition
Apparel Africa 20New ‘cutting’ edge methods rule the roost
Développements 4Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats
Pleins feux sur l’Iran 6L’Iran a besoin de plus d’affaires textiles
Contrefaçon 7Ghana aborde la contrefaçon d’une main en fer
Colorants 12Le marché mondial voit l’émergence de nouveaux colorants et auxiliaries
L’ITMA Asie + CITME 2014 16La Chine se prépare pour la quatrième édition
Revue d’Habillement 20De nouvelles méthodes de coupe font la loi
CONTENTS
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014 3
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Couverture: Nouveaux colorantsInset: L’ITMA Asie + CITME 2014
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S01 AFTEX 2 2014 - Start_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:54 Page 3
May 2014
13 - 15 Texprocess Americas 2014 Atlanta, USA www.texprocessamericas.com
19 - 22 INDEX 2014 Dubai, UAE www.indexexhibition.com
20 - 23 FESPA Digital 2014 Munich, Germany www.fespa.com
June 2014
16 - 20 ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 Shanghai, China www.cematex.org
18 - 20 Source Africa Cape Town, South Africa www.sourceafrica.co.za
19 - 24 Heimtextil India New Delhi, India www.heimtextil.in
July 2014
2 - 4 FESPA Africa 2014 Johannesburg, South Africawww.fespa.com
10 - 12 Intertextile Pavilion Shenzhen 2014 Shenzhen, Chinawww.messefrankfurt.com
August 2014
27 - 29 Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Shanghai, Chinawww.messefrankfurt.com.hk
September 2014
24 - 26 Cinte Techtextil China Shanghai, China www.techtextilchina.com
October 2014
16 - 19 OTM 2014 Gaziantep, Turkey www.otm2014.com
21 - 24 IGATEX Pakistan 2014 Lahore, Pakistan www.igatex.pk
November 2014
3 - 4 International Textile Fair Dubai Dubai, UAE www.internationaltextilefair.com
4 - 6 Texworld Istanbul Istanbul, Turkey www.messefrankfurt.com
10 - 12 ORIGIN AFRICA Nairobi, Kenya www.originafrica.org
11 - 13 JITAC European Textile Fair Tokyo, Japan www.jitac.jp
May 2015
5 - 7 Techtextil 2015 Frankfurt, Germanywww.techtextil.messefrankfurt.com
TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 20144
TEXTILE NEWS
Kenya to set up textile city in
to woo investors in the country
KENYA HAS PLANNED to set up a textile city in
Athi River in a move to attract investments, Adan
Mohammed, industrialisation cabinet secretary,
said. The ministry, he said, targets to attract at least
100 textile investment firms in the city and create
more than 200,000 sustainable textile jobs by
December 2016. Such firms will be expected to
take up investment opportunities relating to cotton
ginning and yarn spinning, manufacture of textile
fabrics and home fabrics, manufacture of apparel
and manufacture of garment accessories, and
labels among other ventures, Daily Nationreported. The contribution of manufacturing to
GDP last year dropped to an all time low of 8.9 per
cent from 9.5 per cent the previous year as ICT,
construction and financial services expanded at a
faster pace. With a combined annual revenue of
more than US$25bn, Mohammed confirmed that
plans for the establishment of a textile city are now
at an advanced stage.
Uganda set to increase cotton
exports after Bali meet
UGANDA’S COTTON EXPORTS from Uganda
are set to increase once the recommendations by
trade ministers in Bali’s ninth ministerial
conference are implemented. One of the
recommendations is to help revive the cotton
sector through funding to increase production to
benefit from the market from List Developed
Countries (LDC), members of the World Trade
Organization (WTO). Amelia Kyambadde,
minister of trade, industry and cooperatives, said
that there have been restrictions in the cotton sector
when it comes to exporting as result of decline in
quality and production. “In this meeting ministers
agreed that since the sector in Uganda would be
supported if possible with a fund to improve the
production capacity and quality controls to gain a
guaranteed market among LDC members and
beyond,’ added Kyambadde.
ORIGIN AFRICA set to take
place in November in Kenya
DEDICATED TO IMPROVING African cotton,
textile and apparel trade, ORIGIN AFRICA will take
place in Nairobi, Kenya, starting 10 November 2014.
The event involves collaboration with producers
across the cotton value chain from farm to fashion
including accessories suppliers, home textile and
décor to develop, guide and promote African trade.
It will highlight the creativity and innovation of the
African cotton, textile and clothing industries, with
a specific focus on business, trade and investment
— regional and international — capturing the spirit,
style and innovation of modern Africa, African
Cotton & Textile Industries Federation said. The
show is touted as the largest cotton, textile and
apparel event in the region and is profiled to raise
awareness of Africa as a sourcing destination.
ORIGIN AFRICA will encompass a trade expo,
seminars, B2B meetings and a fashion show.
Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy(Commercial Office) of the country in question.
Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés del’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question
S01 AFTEX 2 2014 - Start_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:54 Page 4
THE SOUTHERN AFRICAN Clothing and Textile Workers Union
(SACTWU) has welcomed the new agreement on increase of minimum wages
for the domestic clothing manufacturing industry.
The new agreement was signed by labour minister Mildred Oliphant. It sets
out terms and conditions of employment for the clothing industry including
minimum wage levels.
The agreement proposes harsh penalties for non-compliance. The minimum
wage levels set out in the new agreement are applicable to the whole of the
clothing manufacturing industry in South Africa.
Chris Gina, deputy general secretary of SACTWU, said that there will be
a different minimum weekly wage that clothing workers will get in big
cities and non-metropolitan areas. “We have a minimum that covers the
employers in areas so called ‘former homeland areas’, we call them non
metros. The minimum rate there is US$60.48 per week in the urban areas
the minimum is actually US$84.52.”
Gina added that the employers who break the law will be prosecuted. The
deputy secretary general has singled out KwaZulu-Natal as one of the
province which does not comply to the rule. He said penalties include
liquidation of a company that fails to adhere to the new agreement.
“Once the agreement is promulgated the bargaining council has got clear
powers that if you are not adhering to minimum standards the inspector can go
to any of these companies and inspect and actually issue an order of
prosecution for that company and that company can even be liquidated.”
Some clothing factory workers claim that they are the lowest paid.
Mymoena Williams has been working in the clothing and textile industry
for 35 years and, says that the new deal will be a step in the right direction.
“It could help sustain workers livelihood though the ideal agreement and
probably they could earn more money but under the circumstances it enables
workers to be protected. So I think it’s a good thing that the agreement has
been signed,” Williams stated.
UK HAS ANNOUNCED that it
has plans to introduce Bt cotton
from various African countries
in its market.
Owen Paterson, UK’s
secretary of state for
environment, food and rural
affairs, said in London that
adopting genetically engineered
cotton (Bt cotton) by farmers in
most countries is inevitable.
Addressing a group of
Bioscience for Farming in
Africa fellowship journalists in
April, Paterson added that there
are more benefits to Bt cotton
cultivation, especially among poor smallholder farmers.
“GM cotton is a real success story. More than two thirds of global cotton
production is now GM based, so it's likely that the majority of you in this
room are wearing clothes made from GM crops,” the UK official said.
“Why should we deny our local farmers benefits of Bt cotton, this is not
a crop and already we are wearing clothes made from Bt cotton,” argued
Tanzania’s water and irrigation minister Jumanne Maghembe.
Maghembe said this while presiding as a panelist at an Africa Green
Revolution Forum (AGRF) on how technology can change growth of
agriculture that genetic engineering is one way of increasing productivity
and boosting incomes for local farmers. “Cotton is not a food crop. Why
don’t we start with that so that we increase yields and help farmers earn
more from this crop?” Maghembe added. Statistics show that about 40 per
cent of all Tanzanians rely directly or indirectly on the cotton industry most
of which are smallholder farmers.
THE ETHIOPIAN TEXTILE Industry DevelopmentInstitute has revealed that it has earned US$75.28mn from exports in the first eight months of the fiscalyear from the international market.
According to the institute, this year’s exportperformance surged by US$9.9mn (15.1 per cent)from the same reported period of the previous year.
The director of Corporate CommunicationDirectorate of the Institute, Banteyihun Gessesse,told The Reporter that this year‘s achievement forthe growth in export performance is mainlyattributed to the volume and quality of the productsof the textile-manufacturing sector.
According to Banteyihun, most of the productswere sent to the international market like Europe,US, Asia and Africa.
Among several local and foreign-ownedcompanies engaged in the production of textile, theTurkish textile giant Ayka Addis took the lion’s shareof the already earned US$75.28mn.
The export components mainly consisted ofuntailored garments, spine and woven, tailoredgarments and woven products. In a similardevelopment, another Turkish giant textilemanufacturer, Akber, is undertaking preparationactivities to establish the biggest textile plantwith a total initial capital amounting to
US$175mn in Ejere town.The new factory is also expected to create from
9,000 to 10,000 jobs, bigger than any operatingtextile factory in the nation. So far the highest hasbeen Ayka Addis that has been offering around7,000 jobs.
Upon completing the construction of the plant andbecoming operational in the next three years, thecompany expects to make its annual productioncapacity worth US$90mn.
It was further learnt that the company is currentlyundertaking a project study and designing that willenable it to secure loans from the DevelopmentBank of Ethiopia (DBE).
“The coming of such big companies to Ethiopiasignals a glimmer of hope in the country’s textilesector,” Banteyihun added.
Ethiopian textile exports earn US$75.28 million in eight months
THE AFRICAN UNION has urged
member countries to push US for
the extension of the Africa Growth
and Opportunity Act (AGOA) for
the next 15 years inorder to enable
them maximise benefits through
trade relations. Fatima Haram, AU’s
commissioner for trade and
industry, said that there should be
renewed efforts to strengthen
Africa’s link with AGOA to
continue their efforts to open their
economies and build free markets.
Meanwhile, the South African
government has said that it will
consider giving some US producers
the same access to the local market
as the EU. Trade and industry
minister Rob Davies said that he
believes US President Barack
Obama to make this proposal at the
first US-Africa summit in August
2014. AGOA offers most African
countries duty-free access to the US
market for most of their goods.
Owen Paterson
South African textile body welcomesnew law on minimum wages
UK to introduce Africa’s Bt cotton in its market
African Union topush US for renewal of AGOA
TEXTILE NEWS
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014 5
The new factory is also expected tocreate from 9,000 to 10,000 jobs
S01 AFTEX 2 2014 - Start_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:54 Page 5
I
RAN IS BACK with new hope that the long-
established but struggling textile and clothing
industries will be part of an international business
package designed to bring the Islamic Republic
back in out of the cold.
It all depends on what happens when the
“sanctions truce”, signed in Switzerland last
November and much encouraged by the European
Union amongst others, many of them machinery
exporters, runs out later this year.
Most are agreed that the new face of Iran —
2013-elected President Hassan Rouhani — is a
welcome newcomer indeed. The first-time
appearance of a new-era Iranian leader at this
year’s World Economic Forum could have been a
start; he has already spoken directly, but briefly,
with the US President Barack Obama.
The Iranian Revolution occurred back in 1979
and crippling international business sanctions have
been in place since 1996. The capital and
equipment starved textile and clothing industries
have been victims of this. These centuries-old
activities used to employ in excess of half a
million, easily the largest non-oil sector of
manufacturing in the 20th century. The much-
reduced total now is unknown, but large numbers
still work in the spinning and weaving sectors in
particular, working with one of the world’s widest
ranges of local natural fibres, including silk. Many
are employed on a cottage, i.e. very small scale,
basis – in premium-grade carpet production
especially. If anything the economic sanctions
have increased the desirability and therefore
international trading value of these magnificent
furnishings, including in the Gulf.
However all segments of the textile industries
are crippled by the poor quality and quantity of
mechanical equipment that is currently available,
the absence of so much vitally needed foreign
direct investment (FDI), and the many
opportunities that are easily found in the porous
and sometimes troubled border areas to smuggle in
fabrics and clothing of all types. Meanwhile the
currency remains weak, raising the local cost of
legitimate imports.
The long-running problems in nearby Syria
undoubtedly confound the situation because of
Iran’s alleged involvement in the eastern
Mediterranean; this year’s alarming developments
in Ukraine have actually brought some unexpected
hope because there is now even more international
demand for Iran’s gas which for so long has been
denied to most of the world. Iran is believed to
have lost over US$25bn in sanctions-blocked oil
exports alone last year. A much healthier textile
and clothing sector is urgently needed to boost the
battered and reduced manufacturing economy.
Substantial domestic demand for many basic
products is undoubtedly there, but not the means of
meeting most of it.
To find out what’s going on in textile trade we
have to turn to the WTO’s International Trade
Statistics 2013, unfortunately the figures reveal
nothing of Iran’s official international clothing
business, which is believed to be very small
anyway. Textile exports have roughly doubled
since 1990, reaching US$1,097mn in 2012. This
has been well below the rate of growth in
international world business overall, although
there was a very encouraging 17 per cent year-on-
year increase in 2012. Textile imports have been
maintained more or less at a stable level well
below this over the last three years. But the real
tragedy is that Iran has failed to benefit almost
completely from the surge in international clothing
sales since MFA quotas were abandoned. Globally,
this has more than doubled since the beginning of
the millennium, and is a much more lucrative
business than unfinished textiles.
Finding updated information about the
industries from within Iran is not easy. The best
source seems to be the official Trade Promotion
Organisation, which has a special department
(+9821 2266-4010 telephone or -2566 fax) dealing
with business with African and Arabic-speaking
countries. The TPO site provides information
about various exporters and business directories,
including a useful small-business section. It lists
trade fairs comprehensively too.
The Association of Iranian Textile Industries
acts on behalf of some 400 individual
businesses, but, contact details apart, little
information about the sector’s activities can be
obtained directly from the English-language
section.
The principal trade fair to visit this year will
undoubtedly be Irantex 2014, which covers all
products including leather and textile machinery
(17-20 November). Next year it will be the 3rd
Iranian Apparel Specialist Fair (21-24 February
2015). The thriving carpet sector seems to
arrange its principal exhibitions independently.
The main handmade show runs from 23-29
August, and its machine-made equivalent from
6-9 September. There are also various regional
carpet shows. The Textile Exporters Association
website is also worth a look. ❑
www.wto.org/statisticswww.tpo.ir http://aiti.org.irwww.itema.ir
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 20146
SPOTLIGHT ON IRAN
Carpet-weaving is undoubtedly one of the most distinguished manifestationsof the Persian culture and art, and dates back to ancient Persia
A much healthier textile andclothing sector is urgently
needed to boost the battered andreduced manufacturing economy
The Middle East country is back on track with its textiles export, but a lot needs to be done in terms of
industrialisation in order to generate more revenue in Iran
Iran needsmore textile business
S02 AFTEX 2 2014 - Spotlight_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:54 Page 6
PIRACY
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014 7
Government measures to protect indigenous industry has also led to increased unemployment and there is
a need to come up with alternate measures for citizens immediately to curb the smuggling
T
HE DECISION BY Ghana to suspend the operations of a task force it set
up to check counterfeiting, piracy and smuggling of textile prints into the
country has not gone down well with industry operators, who have described
the action as paying lip service to their quest for action to check the activities
of smugglers and pirates who have virtually collapsed the local industry
rendering many citizens unemployed and investors wringing their hands in
anguish over their losses.
Members of the task force included the National Security Council, Ghana
Union of Traders (GUTA) and the Ghana National Chamber of Commerce
and Industries (GNCCI), which was officially inaugurated in August 2010
with an objective to curb the menace of illegal importation of pirated
Ghanaian textile prints.
The central government took this decision using the World Trade
Organisation (WTO) Agreement on Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual
Property Rights (TRIPs), which places an obligation upon it to take certain
special border measures under Articles 51-60 of the TRIPs Agreement that
enjoins WTO members to take action to prevent these illegal goods from being
released by Customs Authority to the importers. The TRIPs agreement also
mandated governments not to allow infringed goods to enter the channel of
commerce and also not allow their re-exportation.
Directing and designing
In an earlier attempt to stem the illegality, the Ministry of Trade and Industry
(MoTI) in a 2005 directive designated the Takoradi Port as the ‘single corridor’
for the import of textiles into Ghana. As corollary to this policy, a committee
was also set up to vet and approve all textile designs prior to importation.
Though this was accepted by some industry operatives, the Customs
Division of the Ghana Revenue Authority (GRA), said the policy rather
resulted in an upsurge in smuggling with its attendant loss of revenue to
government, which eventually resulted in a review permitting the importation
of these goods through all entry points on condition that the guidelines on
importation of such goods were complied with.
Thus from September 2013, all imports were allowed through Kotoka
International Airport (KIA), Accra, Takoradi and Tema Ports all in an attempt to
salvage an industry, which at its peak in the 1980s employed over 30,000 workers
directly, not to mention the distributors and itinerant hawkers and market traders.
The latest lay-off occurred in December 2013 at Printex, a local firm that
declared 200 of its work force as surplus to requirements, due to low patronage
of its goods which a workers’ leader Francis Omari attributed to the influx of
cheap textiles on the market especially from China in addition to the high
taxes and unavailability of markets.
The government in a surprising move in late 2013, however, announced the
suspension of the activities of the anti-piracy task force through Nii Lante
Vanderpuije, deputy trade minister following concerns expressed over the
seizure of some 1,000 pieces of pirated textiles. This decision has, however,
not gone down well with the Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Union,
which has vehemently opposed the suspension petitioning the Trade Ministry
for the reinstatement of the task force.
But Vanderpuije, who described the workers’ stance as unfortunate, said the
ministry is working in the best interest of the local textile manufacturing industry.
Secretary General of the Ghana Federation of Labour, Abraham Koomson
said, “What we care about is making sure that those who steal our designs are
arrested, that’s all.”
He, however, maintained that industry workers will make sure that nobody
brings pirated designs to come and destroy their work in country.
President of Spinnet Textiles and Garments Cluster, an association of small
businesses in the manufacturing of textiles and garments for the domestic and
export markets, Edwina Assan indicated that these policies have made it almost
impossible for Ghana’s textile products to compete with cheap imports from Asia.
An emphasis on enforcement
Speaking on the gradual collapse of the textile industry in Ghana, Assan
expressed concern about the stiff competition faced by the industry as a result
of the importation of cheap textiles.
According to her, the Ghana Standards Authority had failed to fully
operationalise its taskforce for arresting smugglers due to inadequate
resources and the porous nature of the country’s borders.
She urged government to check corruption at the borders, designate only
one port as the designation point for all imported textiles to avoid the use of
porous routes and also pay attention to the protection of Intellectual Property
with regards to pirating of local textile designs.
She also called on the Ministry of Trade and Industry to facilitate the
capacity building of small and medium textile firms to enable them position
themselves well and be competitive.
To save the local industry, MoTI issued a guideline early last year on the
importation of African prints into the country. The guidelines were intended to
provide a framework of administrative procedure through which numerous
unfair trade practices including evasion of imported duties, pirating of patent
and trademarks and smuggling among many others could be controlled.
The guideline included directives, which required all such importers to
register with the Ministry of Trade, to allow effective monitoring and
inspection of all imported African print to ensure they are not pirated designs
from any local manufacturer. ❑
Kafui Gale-Zoyiku
Ghana tackles counterfeitingwith an iron hand
Local textile designs must be protectedunder Intellectual Property rights
To save the local industry, MoTI issued aguideline in 2013 on the importation of African
prints into the country
S02 AFTEX 2 2014 - Spotlight_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:54 Page 7
Même si les investissements directs étrangers dans le secteur égyptien du textile et del’habillement sont menacés par la crise économique actuelle, le pays n’en demeure pas moinsl’un des principaux fournisseurs de tissus de qualité à l’échelle internationale
BCOMME LA VERTIGINEUSE croissanceéconomique que connaît l’Afrique profite
majoritairement aux principaux marchésmondiaux du textile, les analystescommerciaux commencent à se demander si“l’Égypte ne risque pas de rester à la traîne?”
L’instabilité générale observée depuis lerenversement du gouvernement de MohamedMorsi a très certainement affecté l’économie. Letourisme est durement touché et les industriesdu textile et de l’habillement, qui dépendentfortement des marchés étrangers, craignentque les investissements directs étrangers (IDE),qui leur sont pourtant indispensables, necontinuent à baisser à la source.
Certains se demandent certainementpourquoi on investit dans une Égypte déchiréepar les querelles internes et en manqueévident de direction, alors qu’il existe de bienmeilleures opportunités ailleurs, en particulierdans le Golfe ?
Une grande partie des avancées réaliséespar les entrepreneurs égyptiens au cours deces 20 dernières années pourraient êtreperdues au profit d’exploitants beaucoup plusagiles originaires d'Afrique du Nord, deTurquie et d'autres horizons plus lointains.Étant donné la croissance actuelle queconnaissent les marchés américains du textileet de l’habillement, qui constituent lesprincipaux piliers du secteur privé égyptiendepuis de nombreuses années, cette situationest plus qu’ironique. Il en va semblablementde même en matière de relance européenne.
Dans son article paru dans le derniernuméro de Business Monthly, IsabelEsterman, membre de la Chambre américainede commerce, résume parfaitement lasituation. Elle y cite les propos tenus parMohamed Kassem, PDG de la sociétéégyptienne d’exportation de textile World
Trading Company, sur la différence d'attitudedes investisseurs locaux et des investisseursinternationaux face à la crise actuelle.
Selon ses dires, M. Kassem aurait déclaré,en parlant de l’Égypte, que “des facteursémotionnels et sentimentaux étaient en jeu”.Ces éléments sont plutôt absents de l’espritdes observateurs, qui ne tiennent compte quedes chiffres. Ce sont des dévoreurs dechiffres. Ils se fichent que vous fassiezconfiance au gouvernement ou non...ilsveulent évaluer la situation sur place". Et ce
qu'ils observent pour le moment sur leterritoire particulièrement tourmenté del'Égypte n'est pas bien joli.
Ainsi, au sein de l'industrie égyptienne dutextile et de l'habillement, ce sont les chiffresqui comptent, tout comme pour le reste del'économie. Après examen de l'édition 2012des "Statistiques du commerce internationale"publiée par la Banque mondiale, la plupartdes observateurs conviendraient que lestendances de la situation égyptienne à longterme sont plutôt encourageantes.
Fin 2011, les exportations égyptiennes detextile et d’habillement représentaientconjointement près de 10% de l’ensemble desexportations de biens de consommationcourante. Cependant, il faut se rappeler quec'est au début de cette année-là que lestroubles, souvent qualifiés de “Printemps
Les producteurs de textilevoient enfin la lumière aubout du tunnel
8
PLEINS FEUX SUR L’ÉGYPTE
En 2011, les exportations égyptiennes de textile et d’habillement représentaient conjointement près de10 % de l’ensemble des exportations du pays
L’Égypte a le potentiel pour réaliser les transformationsstructurelles nécessaires pour tendre vers une économieplus productive et une exploitation optimale de l’immense
richesse de ses ressources
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014
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arabe”, ont vraiment commencé. “Folie temporaire” est le terme que la
Chambre américaine de commerce en Égyptea choisi d’utiliser dans son dernier compterendu mensuel. Les prêteurs du Golf (et lesemployeurs de nombreux expatriés égyptiens)n’ont pas été, eux non plus, des plusimpressionnés.
Dans son rapport semestriel sur lesperspectives économiques égyptiennes, laBanque africaine de développement a déclaréque “l’Égypte avait le potentiel pour réaliser lestransformations structurelles nécessaires pourtendre vers une économie plus productive etune exploitation optimale de l’immenserichesse de ses ressources, à condition quecertaines réformes politiques indispensablessoient instaurées.”
Le FMI a souligné que, pour atteindre lacroissance, l’économie égyptienne devaitprogresser d’au moins 2% en 2013.
En attendant, les travailleurs des villesindustrielles de la Basse-Égypte et du Delta,parmi lesquels de nombreux employésqualifiés du secteur du textile et del’habillement, doivent faire face à des pénuriesd’électricité, d’eau, d’essence et même de gazen bouteille. En raison de la faiblesse de lalivre égyptienne et des répercussions que celaentraîne sur presque tous les biens importés,
ils doivent payer plus presque tout ce qu'ilsachètent. Pour le comprendre, il suffitd’examiner la hausse qu’ont connu lesimportations égyptiennes de textile etd’habillement au cours de ces 20 dernièresannées. Les coûts de la machinerie indienneet européenne nécessaire au fonctionnementdes usines et des ateliers ont connu unehausse considérable.
La vision nécessaire pour corriger lasituation semble faire défaut. On ne peut nierque le gouvernement intérimaire égyptien amis tout en œuvre pour nommer deséconomistes de renom à des postes clés.Certains ont même travaillé dans desinstitutions internationales qui voientaujourd’hui l’Égypte d’un très mauvais œil (iln’y a rien d’inhabituel à cela ; Le Caire atoujours adopté une approche indépendantevis-à-vis de sujets tels que le rythme de laprivatisation, surtout dans le secteur du textile).
Cependant, ce que les potentielsinvestisseurs étrangers recherchent vraiment,c’est davantage une énonciation claire desobjectifs nationaux que la capacité desimplement “faire face”. Ils veulent la preuveque le pays commence à se rassembler, àrésoudre les dissensions factionnelles quidivisent son peuple, et notamment lesorganisateurs de la main d’œuvre industrielle.
Sur une note positive, le dernier articlepublié par la Chambre américaine decommerce en Égypte indiquait que les États-Unis étaient eux-mêmes confrontés à desproblèmes factionnels ces derniers temps, cequi a entraîné la suspension de nombreuxservices fédéraux, les politiciens n’étant pasdisposés à faire des compromis.
Malgré certaines carences, le coton àlongues fibres continue à être cultivé et récoltéen Égypte, et bon nombre d’activités liées ausecteur du textile et de l’habillementcontinuent à tourner exactement comme avantla chute du régime Mubarak. En novembre, laConférence internationale sur le textileSMARTEX-2013, subventionnée par laRussie, s’est déroulée dans l’environnementcalme de Sharm El Sheikh, sous les auspicesde l’Académie égyptienne de recherchescientifique et de technologie. En mars 2014,le principal salon international du pays setiendra, comme à son habitude, dans lacapitale et accueillera une exposition majeureconsacrée à la mode et au textile.
En bref, l’Égypte traverse une mauvaisepasse, mais elle n’a en aucun cas atteint unpoint de non-retour. Dans ce monde avide detextile, le pays demeure l’un des principauxfournisseurs de fibres, de tissus et de produitsfinis de haute qualité. ❑
PLEINS FEUX SUR L’ÉGYPTE
9TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014
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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 201410
TEXTILE NEWS
DUTCH FASHION DESIGNER BorreAkkersdijk has come up with a new kind ofwearable technology — a Wi-Fi enabled suit.
Akkersdijk began experimenting with acircular knitting machine in 2009 to knit twolayers of fine cotton thread enveloping asynthetic fibre, Sky News reported.
Now he has pushed the technique furtherby running copper wire through the materialduring the manufacturing process.
The wires can be hooked up to chips andconnectivity devices, and he has created twoprototype outfits called BB.Suits.
Akkersdijk said, “This suit is to show that
wearable technology will be the future — afuture where people wearing hi-tech clothesis the most natural thing in the world.”
The concept is the result of a collaborationbetween ByBorre, fabric innovation brand;Eindhoven University of Technology;22Tracks, a music platform; CRISP; DaanSpangenberg Graphics and Want.nl.
“Together, we want to show the ideas andconcepts we have about wearable technology.We think garments are one of the excitingfutures for interface design, connecting thewearer to people and places, becoming theideal interface for many new user experiences.”
Dutch designer creates wearable Wi-Fi suit
Dutch designer Borre Akkersdijkwearing the BB.Suit.
TOGETHER WITH ROSINK Systeme,
Trützschler has been selling installations for the
production of card slivers used for making cotton
swabs for many years.
The web of a Trützschler cotton card is split
into four segments. These web sections result in
four fine card slivers. They have a count of
approximately 1.5 gram per metre. The four
slivers are simultaneously coiled into four cans
by means of a Rosink Quad Coiler. Today, more
than 80 Trützschler and Rosink machine
combinations are on the market. The sliver that
can be produced with these systems is sufficient
for approx. 50,000,000 cotton swabs per hour.
To further increase efficiency, FALU has
recently introduced cotton swab machines with
integrated drafting system. The feed sliver used
here has a weight of three to four gram per metre.
To fully utilise the potential of the Trützschler
High Production Card in these cases, the Rosink
sliver splitting system has been adapted to the
Trützschler Card TC 11-H, allowing a production
of four slivers a four gram per metre. Thus, the
card production is more than doubled again. All
the advantages and control systems of the
Trützschler TC 11-H are utilised; they ensure a
perfect sliver evenness at maximum efficiency of
the total system.
SWISS ENGINEERING COMPANY Oerlikon
has announced the launch of its TURBOVAC i
product line, which is a series of
turbomolecular vacuum pumps for analytical
instruments and research-and-development
applications. With a pumping speed that is 60
per cent higher than that of similar products
and a compression ratio that is 100 times
higher than the previous generation, the
Oerlikon product could be the next market
leader. “With the new TURBOVAC family, we
offer the leading product for analytics and
research applications as well as for other
industrial applications and intend to
systematically expand our market position,”
says CEO Martin Füllenbach.
The new TURBOVAC pumps series comes
with low maintenance needs. The
TURBOVAC 350 i and 450 i models, for
instance, are specifically designed for ultra-
high vacuum applications and for installation
in compact pump-system solutions and are
suitable for processes with small backing
pumps. This reduces procurement and
operating costs, Oerlikon said.
In contrast, the TURBOVAC T 350 i and
T 450 i models are designed for process
applications and high gas throughput. They
offer fast run-up times and insensitivity to
particulates. Both model variations provide
a range of options for the most diverse
special requirements.
“Successful test runs with various customers
demonstrate that TURBOVAC i pumps can
make full use of the advantages they offer in the
field. The models are the highest-performing,
most versatile and lowest-maintenance pumps
on the market,” added Füllenbach.
Oerlikon’s new vacuum pumps for R&D applications
Trützschler cards can produce 50 million cotton swabs per hourt
With the Rosink Quad Coiler, four slivers are coiled simultaneously into four cans
TURBOVAC T 350 i
S03 AFTEX 2 2014 - Textile News_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:55 Page 10
Stenter Montex 8000 with ECO Booster HRCThe intelligent, integrated heat recovery module ECO Booster HRC is
completely integrated into the new chamber design of the Montex 8000.
The new ECO Booster HRC module is characterised in that it is cleaned
automatically while the stenter range is running so that a constant
optimum efficiency is assured. It eliminates standstill times for
maintenance and hence significantly increases the range
availability. The ECO Booster HRC module is equipped with
an electric drive which permits computer-controlled optimisation
of the heat exchanger performance to the prevailing exhaust air
streams, something that is not possible with purely static heat
exchanger modules. The optimum efficiency of the
ECO Booster HRC allows process costs to be further reduced.
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KGGermany | A Member of Fong’s Industries Group
www.monforts.com
SOUTH AFRICAN LUXURY terrytowelling producer Glodina hasdecided to deliver its latest Montexstenter, replacing two old unit.
The latest Montex, which wouldreplace two older stenters, willcontinue to deliver the same qualityand absorbent finish for Glodina’shigh-end terry towelling.
Glodina said that their two oldstenters, dating back to 1958 and 1962had become ‘virtually unrepairable’.The units were reportedly installed in2011 through Texmaco, the localrepresentative of Monforts. Now, thetwo units would be replaced by theMontex 6500.
The four chamber Montex providesworking widths of between 0.7 metres to2.20 metres and operates generally atspeeds of between 20 metres per minuteto 30 metres per minute, depending onweights and the moisture content.
Markus Eksteen, engineering manager,said, “The new technology of the latest
Montex made an instant impact being souser friendly, far fewer controls andguaranteed reproducibility."
Eksteen added that earlier, theywould manually adjust weftstraightening but with this machine,the entire process is automatic.
Glodina supplies major retailers andcaters to 80 per cent of South Africa'sbed-and-breakfast inns and hotels. Thecompany's range of terry towels aresnag resistant. The towels are availablein woven and warp knits, and feature
cotton as the main raw material. Thiscotton is dyed and bleached, washedand dried, before final finishing throughthe stenter to ensure the company’srenown soft and absorbent finish.
The company is also widely regardedfor its range of frequently complicatedand elaborate cross borders, featuringunique designs for each of Glodina’scustomers.
Glodina stated that it currentlyproduces around 2,200 tonnes perannum, accounting for roughly 30 percent of the local market.
The company dates back over 60years with the Ballaadon family buyingDano Dyeing and Printing Works in 1953and installing 20 looms to weave towelsand napkins. Glodina is currently part ofthe KAP International Group.
In 2001, the company was acquiredby Daun & Cie, and in 2005 was listedon the JSE as part of KAP InternationalHoldings. In 2012, Steinhoff becamethe major and controlling shareholder.
Luxury terry towelling producer Glodina to deliver latest Montex stenter
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014 11
ADVERTORIAL
Glodina’s two units would be replaced by the Montex 6500
S03 AFTEX 2 2014 - Textile News_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:55 Page 11
Ian Holme
A
report on the global textile chemicals market
by Transparency Market Research, USA,
predicted that the global market will grow from
US$19.6bn in 2013 to US23.4bn by 2018. The sector
of colourants and auxiliaries amounted to 26.9 per
cent of the market in 2011 and clearly this will grow
in line with increased global fibre consumption. The
Asia-Pacific region dominates the textile chemicals
market, both as producer and consumer, with a
market share of 52.3 per cent in 2011.
European dyemakers are consolidating their
presence in the region and DyStar has commenced
a second production line for its high quality DyStar
Indigo Vat 40 per cent solution. The second
production line started up on 1 April 2013 in
DyStar’s manufacturing hub in Nanjing, China and
will reach a designed capacity of 12,000 metric
tonnes a year.
In 2013, SK Capital, a private investment firm,
completed their acquisition of the Textile
Chemicals, Paper Specialities and Emulsions
business from Clariant and has combined the three
divisions into an “integrated, market-focussed and
highly collaborative company” called Archroma.
Archroma will have revenues of around US$1.3bn
with its products manufactured in 25 global
manufacturing facilities and has some 3,000
employees. Archroma will have its headquarters in
Switzerland and the Textile Chemicals business
division will be managed from Singapore.
The strong regulatory stance adopted within
Europe has forced European dyemakers to move
their manufacturing sites into Asia, a move that
places colourant manufacture nearer to the major
sources of textile fibre and fabric production, thereby
decreasing product distribution costs. The massive
investment in both dye and pigment manufacturing
capacity in China, for example, has resulted in
considerable economies of scale. Dye production
costs decreased and because of increasing global
competition and lower labour costs the purchase
price per kilo of dyes and pigments has fallen,
especially for commodity dyes and pigments that are
manufactured on a massive scale.
Now, in 2014, the dyes and pigments market is
entering into a new phase in which the market
bottomed out and prices are set to rise. A major
factor in this global price shift is the increasingly
strict approaches being taken by the Chinese and
Indian regulatory authorities to clamp down on
environmental issues because of the burgeoning
waste water pollution generated as a by-product of
dye manufacture. Another major factor is the
closing down of some chemical production facilities
that are major sources of pollution. This has led to a
serious shortfall in the global production of certain
chemical intermediates e.g. H-Acid, which are
essential for the production of many textile dyes. As
a result, there are likely to be production caps for
certain dyestuffs, problems of continuity of supply,
and rising prices for both intermediates and
dyestuffs. In some cases the increased prices for
chemical intermediates will result in dyemakers
turning these into higher value higher priced
dyestuffs where their profit margins are higher.
As colourant manufacturers move towards
“cleaner and greener” dye manufacturing this can
only come about through capital investment which
may leave their research and development
departments under cost pressures and decrease the
likelihood of new dyestuffs entering the global
market. This is likely to act as a barrier to
innovation so that technological change in textile
dyeing and printing could stagnate as a result.
New Dyestuffs
Huntsman Textile Effects has expanded its flagship
range of polyreactive Avitera SE dyes for exhaust
dyeing of cellulosic fibres. Combined with the
Gentle Power Bleach system, Avitera SE dyestuffs
enable cotton fabrics to be bleached, dyed and
washed off at temperatures not exceeding 60°C.
This decreases water and energy consumption and
carbon emissions by up to 50 per cent. Avitera SE
dyes are polyreactive which ensures that the
unfixed dye after dyeing is only five per cent or
less, compared with the more usual 15 per cent to
30 per cent in many reactive dye systems. As a
result, this greatly reduces the number of rinsing
baths required to remove unfixed/hydrolysed dyes
to obtain the highest colour fastness standards.
Huntsman Textile Effects has introduced a new
Light Red range of polyreactive dyestuffs giving a
bluish-red shade that can be used in a broad colour
spectrum of pale shades with high colour fastness
to light. For pale shades Huntsman Textile Effects
produce Avitera Yellow SE, Avitera Cardinal SE,
Avitera Light Red SE and Avitera Light Blue SE.
For medium depths of colour Avitera Yellow SE,
Avitera Cardinal SE are complemented by Avitera
Red SE and Avitera Blue SE. For dark colours the
yellow and blue components are replaced by
Avitera Orange SE and Avitera Deep Blue SE
respectively. For very deep shades Huntsman
Textile Effects produce Avitera Orange SE, Avitera
Cardinal SE and Avitera Navy SE. The high
World market sees an emergence ofnew dyes and auxiliaries
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 201412
COLOURANTS
The sector of colourants and auxiliaries amounted to 26.9 per cent of the market in 2011 and clearly this will grow inline with increased global fibre consumption
The strong regulatory stanceadopted within Europe has
forced European dyemakersto move their manufacturing
sites into Asia
S04 AFTEX 2 2014 - Printing_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:56 Page 12
aqueous solubility of Avitera SE dyestuffs
enables them to be applied at ultra-short liquor
ratios.
DyStar has expanded its range of Remazol
Deep Black reactive dyestuffs with two new
dyestuffs that offer enhanced colour strength and
build-up characteristics. The two newly patented
reactive dyestuffs are Remazol Onyx RGB and
Remazol Midnight Black RGB. These dyestuffs
exhibit high colour fastness to washing, very low
staining on polyamide fibres in fibre blends (e.g.
cotton / polyamide) as well as offering good
washing off performance and white
dischargeability. Both these new black dyestuffs
can be applied by the exhaust, cold pad-batch
and continuous application methods.
Remazol Onyx RGB is a neutral black while
Remazol Midnight Black RGB is a greenish
black and both dyestuffs fully comply with the
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and are AOX
(absorbable organohalide)-free and metal-free.
Archroma (formerly Clariant) has introduced
a range of dyestuffs that can be applied by its
Advanced Denim technology to expand the
spectrum of colours other than blue. Archroma’s
Advanced Denim Technology was originally
based upon their Diresul RDT dyestuffs.
However, they launched a new range of six
Optisul C dyestuffs in Paris at Première Vision
which are designed to provide soft denim colours
via a continuous dyeing method. The Optisul C
range are said to be affinity-free and sulphide-
free dyestuffs which meet both GOTS and
bluesign 1 criteria. Combinable with each other
at low concentration they enable denim to be
dyed in a wide colour gamut of easy to achieve
reproducible soft colours.
Avocet Dye & Chemical Company Ltd, UK,
has introduced a new navy dyestuff to their metal-
free Cetalan AV range. Cetalan Navy AV RLD
complements the range which now consists of 12
dyestuffs covering a wide colour gamut. Cetalan
Navy AV RLD and another new dye Cetalan Dark
Red AV D are designed for use in the wool or
wool/nylon carpet sector, but can also be applied
in wool fabric dyeing. Cetalan Navy AV RLD
enables textile dyers to achieve deep rich colours
while still offering good colour fastness to light
and washing. The Cetalan range of dyes are an
economic range of dyestuffs enabling dyers to
achieve deep colours while still meeting exacting
environmental and ecological standards.
DyStar has introduced two new reactive
dyestuffs, Levafix Amber CA-N and Levafix Red
CA-N. The former is a non-photochromic yellow
that DyStar recommends for ternary pale-to-
medium depths of colour. Designed as a
replacement for Levafix Amber CA this new
dyestuff offers significantly less staining on
polyamide fibres. Levafix Amber CA-N offers
high colour fastness to both peroxide and chlorine.
Levafix Red CA-N is a bluish-red dyestuff
suitable for medium to dark shades, an excellent
partner for trichromatic combinations and an
alternative to Levafix Red CA. Both these new
Levafix Amber CA-N and Levafix Red CA-N
reactive dyestuffs are applicable via exhaust or
continuous dyeing processes, are AOX-free,
metal-free and meet full compliance with Oeko-
Tex Standard 100 and all Restricted Substance
Lists. Additionally Levafix Amber CA-N can be
utilised in cold pad batch dyeing processes
because of its balanced migration behaviour
which provides very good reproducibility and
levelness of dyeing. A new green vat dyestuff
from DyStar is Indanthren Green CLF Coll,
which has an optimised particle size to provide the
best migration properties. This vat dyestuff
provides outstanding reproducibility as well as a
level and unique shade on polyamide/cotton
fabrics. Indanthren Green CLF Coll provides a
new basis for high colour fastness green shades
wherein the major part of the green colour is not
provided by blue and yellow dyes. For continuous
dyeing DyStar recommend the use of Sera Gal M-
IP, for exhaust dyeing Sera Sperse C-SN and for
two-phase printing Sera Print M-CAM.
Dyeing Auxiliaries
DyStar’s Remazol RGB and Remazol Ultra RGB
reactive dyestuff technology is now complemented
by a novel wash-clearing auxiliary that is used in
DyStar’s Sera Eco Wash process. SeraFast GRD
provides an accelerated wash-clearing action, the
auxiliary having been especially formulated to
speed up the removal of hydrolysed/unfixed
reactive dyestuffs. The Sera Eco Wash process
shortens the wash-clearing process at 60°C, thereby
saving on water, energy and processing time. In
this way machine productivity and process
sustainability are enhanced.
A new diffusion accelerator for enhancing
aqueous-based disperse dyeing of polyester
fibres has been introduced by Rudolf Chemie.
Suitable for dyeing both polyester and polyester
blends, Rucogal ERL is a non-ionic product
based upon a fatty alcohol ethoxylate and fatty
acid ester. Rucogal ERL is a self-emulsifying
liquid product that can be added directly to the
dyebath and is low foaming. Rucogal ERL
provides excellent levelling effects and is
suitable for correction of unlevel dyeing because
of its superior levelling performance. This
dyeing auxiliary is resistant to water hardness
problems and acids under normal dyehouse
conditions and imparts good colour-intensifying
effects even when applied at the boil. It is
applicable in all types of dyeing machinery.
Bozzetto Group has introduced a new carrier,
Cindye DNK, for the dyeing of aramid fibres to
very dark shades, which are normally extremely
difficult to achieve because of the compact high
crystalline fibre structure. Dyeing of aramid
fibres can thus be carried out using basic
dyestuffs, a strongly acid pH and Cindye DNK
which provides the accelerated diffusion of dyes
within the aramid fibres, with a consequent
increase in both the rubbing and wash fastness. ❑
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014 13
S04 AFTEX 2 2014 - Printing_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:56 Page 13
par Ian Holme
BEN 2012, UNE étude sur les tendancesmondiales concernant les fibres a indiqué
que la production mondiale avait augmentéde 4,5 pour cent par rapport à l’annéeprécédente, atteignant 85,8 millions detonnes. Les synthétiques dominentdésormais le marché mondial et connaissentune croissance de six pour cent, atteignantun volume de 56 millions de tonnes, dont lafibre polyester constitue 41,4 millions detonnes. Une étude mondiale sur les fibressynthétiques réalisée par Tecnon OrbiChem,Londres, a prévu que la production mondialede fibres synthétiques passerait à 110,5millions de tonnes d'ici à 2020 et à 132millions de tonnes d'ici à 2025.
La production grimpera en flèche en raisonde la croissance de la population mondiale etde l’amélioration de la prospérité desindividus, associées à des cycles de modeplus courts. De plus, on observera unecroissance des matériaux textiles innovantset des nouvelles applications produits. Cesnouvelles applications serontparticulièrement importantes dans ledomaine des textiles techniques, car lesmarchés pour ces produits sont de plus enplus divers et se développent de façonsignificative. Cela sera alimenté par uneaugmentation de l’industrialisation dans lespays du Moyen-Orient et d’Afrique (MOAN),pendant que l’amélioration des normesd’hygiène stimulera la demande de non-tissés.
On constate également une croissancecontinue des biopolymères, qui sontidentiques chimiquement à ceux dérivés desproduits pétrochimiques, mais proviennentpartiellement de la biomasse. La productionde fibres de biopolyester (bio-PET) devraits’accroître pour passer à environ cinq millionsde tonnes d’ici à 2020, en partie grâce à laproduction de bioéthanol issu de la canne àsucre. Cependant, ce développement du bio-PET a plus de chance de survenir en Asie eten Amérique du Sud en raison d’un meilleur
accès aux matières premières et decontextes politiques favorables.
Dans le secteur des fibres naturelles, laproduction de fibres de coton a été estimée à25,4 millions de tonnes entre 2011 et 2013.Douze pays, notamment les Etats-Unis,l’Argentine, l’Australie, l’Afrique du Sud, l’Indeet la Chine, produisent du cotonbiotechnologique, également appelé coton «transgénique » ou « génétiquement modifié. »Cela représente environ 77 pour cent de laproduction mondiale de coton et 92 pour centdu coton biotechnologique produit dans lemonde.
A la lumière de ces développements, onpeut déterminer les principales zonesd'activité pour les fabricants de colorants et deproduits chimiques pour le textile, ainsi queleurs mélanges.
Colorants textilesUn rapport de la Transparency MarketResearch a prévu que le marché mondial desproduits chimiques pour le textile connaîtrait,par rapport à aujourd’hui, une croissance de20 pour cent d’ici à 2018, atteignant US$23,4milliards. En 2011, les colorants et lesauxiliaires représentaient 26,9 pour cent dumarché, mais le principal secteur était celuides produits chimiques de revêtement etd’encollage qui constituait 32,1 pour cent desparts de marché.
Un autre secteur, comprenant lestensioactifs, les agents de désencollage, lesagents de blanchiment et les lubrifiants de fil,représentait 22,9 pour cent du marchémondial des produits chimiques pour le textile.En 2011, la région Asie-Pacifique a dominé lemarché mondial des produits chimiques pourle textile avec une part de marché d’environ52,3 pour cent. Il pourrait s’agir du marché àplus forte croissance avec un taux decroissance moyen de quatre pour cent entre2013 et 2018.
Les colorants réactifs pour le coton et lesautres fibres cellulosiques restent un
important centre d’intérêt pour les fabricantsde colorants dans le monde.
Les tendances modernes du secteur, quinécessitent l’utilisation de couleurs vives à lamode dans des nuances intermédiaires àfoncées, favorisent les colorants à soliditéélevée des couleurs dans les gammes descolorants réactifs et des colorants de cuve,tant pour les textiles d’habillement que pour lelinge de maison.
Les colorants réactifs sont produits sous laforme de systèmes monofonctionnels,bifonctionnels ou polyfonctionnels. Lescolorants réactifs homo-bifonctionnels ethétéro-bifonctionnels sont courammentutilisés. L’augmentation du nombre degroupes fonctionnels réactifs aux fibres dansla molécule de colorant augmente la valeurde fixation potentielle du colorant sur la fibre,réduisant ainsi la quantité de colorant réactifnon fixé et hydrolysé à éliminer par un lavagesoigneux après la teinture. L'augmentation dela fonctionnalité du système réactif ducolorant augmente le coût de celui-ci, maiscela est compensé par une meilleure fixation,des temps de teinture/lavage plus courts etune moindre coloration, ainsi qu'un plus faiblevolume d'eaux résiduaires.
Huntsman Textile Effects a développé sagamme de colorants réactifs en introduisantles colorants tri-réactifs Avitera SE, quiincluent le nouveau Avitera Light Red SE. Cecolorant doit être combiné au Avitera YellowSE, au Avitera Cardinal SE et au Avitera LightBlue SE sur des nuances claires.
Pour les nuances intermédiaires,Huntsman recommande Avitera Yellow SE,Avitera Cardinal SE, Avitera Red SE etAvitera Blue SE. Les nuances foncéespeuvent être obtenues en utilisant AviteraOrange SE, Avitera Cardinal SE, Avitera RedSE et Avitera Deep Blue SE. Pour lesnuances très foncées qui sont souventdemandées, Huntsman recommande AviteraOrange SE, Avitera Cardinal SE et AviteraNavy SE.
Face à une industrie textileen perpétuelle croissance,les nouveaux colorants ontle vent en poupe
14
COLORANTS SYNTHÉTIQUES
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014
S04 AFTEX 2 2014 - Printing_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:56 Page 14
Les innovations Avitera SE de Huntsmansont considérées comme un grand pas enavant dans les applications des colorantsréactifs. La teinture par épuisement et lelavage peuvent être mis en œuvre à destempératures allant jusqu'à 60 °C. De plus, laplus faible quantité de colorant réactif non fixé(en général cinq pour cent ou moins) diminuefortement le nombre de bains de rinçage et ladurée totale du lavage. Cela augmente laproductivité de la machine et laconsommation d'eau, d'énergie, ainsi que lesémissions de carbone peuvent être réduitesjusqu'à 50 pour cent.
DyStar a complété ses gammes decolorants réactifs Remazol RGB et RemazolUltra RGB par un nouvel additif deneutralisation du bain. Le Sera Fast C-RD aété formulé pour accélérer l'élimination descolorants réactifs hydrolysés à 60 °C. Il a uneaction prononcée d'accélération du lavage quiconduit à d'importantes économie en eau, enénergie et en temps de traitement. Cela a uneffet positif sur la productivité de la machineet sur la durabilité du procédé.
DyStar a introduit Levafix Amber CA-N, uncolorant jaune non photochromique conçupour une application dans des nuancesternaires claires à intermédiaires. Enremplacement du Levafix Amber CA, cenouveau colorant permet une réduction dudégorgement sur les polyamides, ainsi qu'unerésistance élevée de la couleur au peroxyded'hydrogène et au chlore. De même, leLevafix Red CA-N est une alternative auLevafix Red CA et fournit un colorant rougebleuté adapté aux nuances ternairesintermédiaires à foncées. Ces deuxnouveaux réactifs sont applicables par desprocédés d'épuisement ou de teinturecontinue.
Pour les machines de teinture pourpolyester, la commercialisation de la premièremachine à teindre les tissus sCO2 à l'échelleindustrielle apporte un formidablebouleversement de la teinture sans eau. Desmachines de teinture à trois faisceaux ont étéinstallées dans un atelier de teinture enThaïlande et permettent de teindre des lotsde tissu de 175-200 kg selon l'épaisseur dutissu et son poids par unité de surface.
Dans la teinture sCO2, des colorantsdispersibles spécialement conçus par Triade,aux Pays-Bas, sont utilisés dans desmachines fabriquées par DyeCOO TextileSystems BV. Les colorants de dispersionpour la teinture sCO2 sont commercialiséssous la marque DyeCOO. Dans la teinturesCO2, la quasi-totalité du colorant estabsorbé par le polyester, le procédé negénère pas d'eaux résiduaires et 95 pour centdu CO2 est recyclé dans le lot suivant.
La teinture est réalisée à 130 °C sous unepression de 300 bars, la conception est donc
robuste et répond aux normes de qualité. Letissu teinté ressort sec de la machine. Celaévite le séchage thermique pour éliminerl'eau. La diminution de la consommationd'énergie et de l'utilisation de produitschimiques réduirait les coûts de productionjusqu'à 50 %. Actuellement, DyeCOO travailleavec Huntsman à l'extension de latechnologie sCO2 et les premiers produitsdevraient apparaître pour les agents definition et les agents d’avivage fluorescents.
Auxiliaires et Agents de Finitionpour le TextileLa société Rudolf basée en Allemagne aintroduit Rucogal ERL, un accélérateur dediffusion non ionique pour la teinture dupolyester et des mélanges de polyester. Peumoussant, auto-émulsionnable, Rucogal ERLest un produit liquide à base d'un éthoxylatealcool gras et d'un ester d'acide gras. RucogalERL résiste à la dureté de l'eau et aux acidesdans les conditions normales d'un atelier deteinture et peut être appliqué dans tous lestypes de machine de teinture. Il confère debons effets d'intensification des couleurs etune excellente performance d'égalisation.
Le ITOSOLT LJ550 de LJ Specialities, auRoyaume-Uni, a été spécialement conçu pourpermettre une excellente élimination de lagraisse sur les tissus grèges alliée à uneexcellente dispersion pour empêcher que lagraisse se redépose sur le tissu. Pour lesdispersions de colorants à hautestempératures, LJ Specialities a fabriqué leTOSOLT SN550. Ce produit auxiliaire estégalement conçu pour éliminer les problèmesde tacheture ou de dégorgement de colorantdans les machines.
La société indienne Sarex Chemicals aintroduit Careguard FF, un produit de finitionhydrofuge sans fluor, durable et respectueuxde l'environnement pour les tissus destinésaux vêtements d'extérieur, de loisirs et desport. Careguard FF se base sur une matriced'hydrocarbure avec des polymèreshyperramifiés qui lui permettent de résister àplus de 20 traitements de lavage. Adapté auxtraitements de soin LAD (Laundry Air Dry), leCareguard FF est sans paraffine et sansformaldéhyde ; il est conçu pour uneapplication sur des tissus en fibrescellulosiques et les tissus de mélangecellulosique/synthétique.
Huntsman a introduit son EverGlide LowFriction Systems, une finition textile pourtous les types de substrats qui peut réduireles frottements du tissu contre la peau pourles vêtements de sport. Cette finition confèreun toucher doux et soyeux et a déjàdémontré qu'elle était quatre fois plusefficace que les adoucissants conventionnelssur les tricots nylon/élastane et polyester.L'EverGlide Low Friction Systems de
Huntsman a de faibles propriétés dejaunissement et n’affecte pas la blancheur dutissu dans des conditions de moisissure ou lathermomigration. Cette finition estextrêmement durable et a de bonnesperformances dans un environnementhumide. Elle présente en outre l’avantaged’intégrer un système de gestion del’humidité « cool comfort » qui favorise unséchage rapide et une bonne régulation de latempérature corporelle.
Pour de nombreuses applications, lesfinitions antistatiques pour les matériauxpolyesters sont essentielles pour éviter que levêtement colle et qu’il accumule del’électricité statique. Ruco Stat ADM deRudolf est à base d’un éthoxylate d'alkylecationique. Il est applicable par épuisementou foulardage sur des fibres de polyester oude polyamide sans effet sur le toucher dutissu. Les fibres doivent également êtrerésistantes à un lavage doux. Avec Ruco StatADM, aucun traitement thermique n’estnécessaire pour conférer une durabilité à lafibre. La combinaison de Ruco Stat ADM etde finitions hydrophiles, telles que Feran ICS,peut améliorer l’effet antistatique.
Dans le secteur des ignifuges pour textiles,les sociétés font face à une pressioncroissante des écotoxicologues en raison del’utilisation d’ignifuges halogénés, enparticulier d’ignifuges à base de brome. De cefait, de nombreuses sociétés de produitschimiques mènent des recherches pourtrouver des alternatives aux produits, tels quele DecaBDE (décabromodiphényl éther) quiest couramment utilisé dans les formulationsd’enduction d’envers.
La société Avocet Dye & Chemical, baséeau Royaume-Uni, produit sa gamme CetaflamBC6, qui utiliserait la meilleure technologied'ignifuge disponible, équivalente auDecaBDE. Des composés ou additifs prêts àl’emploi sont disponibles et le Cetaflam BC6revendique sa conformité à l’ensemble deslégislations environnementales actuelles.Avocet a également sa gamme Cetaflam BC8qui est totalement sans halogène et peut êtrecomplétée par des additifs constitués d’unmélange spécial avec lequel l’enducteur detextile peut être mélangé sur place.
TANA COAT OMP, conçu par TanatexChemicals, est un autre nouveau produit pourl’enduction des textiles. Ce produit peuts’utiliser comme couche de fond souple, avecTANA COAT MTO comme couche de finitionmoyenne à dure. Les caractéristiquesremarquables de cette combinaison derevêtements sont les excellentes propriétésde résistance à la lumière et la résistance auxUV. Ce système de revêtement offre une trèsbonne résistance à l’hydrolyse et, par ailleurs,le revêtement final est résistant à l’action desmoisissures et champignons. ❑
COLORANTS SYNTHÉTIQUES
15TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014
S04 AFTEX 2 2014 - Printing_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:56 Page 15
The ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 show is expected to give the booming Asian market a platform to
experience better technology and improve skills to compete with international players
I
TMA ASIA + CITME 2014 is all set to showcase
in Shanghai, China, from 16 June to 20 June at
the Shanghai New International Expo Centre.
This edition will see exhibitors in 13 halls,
spread across 152,000 square metres — a 15 per
cent increase from the previous edition that was
held in 2012. Till date, ITMA has seen 1,351
textile machinery manufacturers from 27 countries
and regions participate.
According to the organisers, this year the
Chinese exhibitors are taking up largest exhibition
area, having booked a little over 66 per cent of the
space. The European contingent has booked 22 per
cent of the area, making them the second largest set
of manufacturers at the expo.
Statistics from the General Administration of
Customs said that China’s exports of textiles and
garments amounted to US$26bn in 2013, which
is an increase of seven per cent over the same
period last year.
Charles Beauduin, president of CEMATEX,
said, “Textile machinery manufacturers are still
buoyant about the Asian market, particularly China.
Investments in cost-effective technology to help the
textile and garment industry stay ahead of the
competition are still strong. As such, our combined
show will continue to be the unrivalled marketing
platform for textile machinery manufacturers
tapping into the vibrant China market.”
China continues to focus on upgrading
technology and skills to reach an international
level for textile and other industry sectors, and this
is one of the priorities under the government’s 12th
Five-Year Plan period (2011-2015).
Wang Shutian, president of China Textile
Machinery Association (CTMA), added: “Interest
in the combined show remains extremely strong,
especially from Chinese textile machinery
manufacturers. As China’s textile industry
continues its transformation, the demand for
advanced machinery and technology is on the rise.
This is also reflected in the current uptrend in
textile machinery trade.”
Rieter has a lot to offer
The know-how relating to financing, spinning
mill planning, use of the right technological
elements, selection of the correct spinning
process as well as many other competences are
necessary to achieve success in the operation of a
spinning plant. Rieter is presenting all its
expertise at the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014.
Rieter will display a model of the 1.5 metre wide
C 70 card with the biggest active carding area.
Visitors will also witness the SB-D 22 double-
head draw frame ensuring maximum productivity
at delivery speed up to 1 100 m/min and a unique
automatic can changer up to 1,000mm.
The G 32 ring spinning machine (operational)
produces ring, fancy ring, twin and compact ring-
spun yarn – quality controlled by the ISM
individual spindle monitoring system.
High productivity and excellent Com4®rotor
yarn quality with yarn-like piecings will be
highlights of the fully-automatic R 60 rotor
spinning machine (operational).
A new generation of the J 20 air-jet spinning
machine (operational) will be introduced with new
concepts of spin unit automation, winding and
machine prolongation to 200 units.
What the benefits and characteristics of the 4
spinning systems mean for downstream processing
can be experienced by visitors. Here fabric
samples and end products of the 4 Rieter Com4®
yarns are available.
DiloGroup’s latest innovations
Germany-based DiloGroup has said that it would
provide information about production lines made
in Germany and recent machine concepts from the
DiloGroup companies DiloTemafa, DiloSpinnbau
and DiloMachines at the textile event.
A major focus of the new equipment is to
improve operation efficiency, web quality and
uniformity with positive effects on all staple fibre
bonding processes, stated the company. These
elements are part of the ‘Dilo – Isomation Process’
and aim at an even web mass for reduced fibre
consumption as raw material is the biggest cost
factor in textile production.
One machine contributing to this process is the
dosing opener DON manufactured by DiloTemafa,
which includes a fine opening stage and delivers
the fibrous material continuously and
homogeneously to the card feeder.
Card feeder MultiFeed, designed by
DiloSpinnbau, is available in working widths up to
five metres. This machine using the ‘Twinflow’
infeed system offers a capacity of over 400
kg/hour/m of working width when processing 1.7
dtex fibres, represents a state-of-the-art feeding
solution for direct cards.
Organisers added that ITMA ASIA + CITME
2014 is being promoted throughout Asia by means
of numerous roadshows and visits to trade
associations. Recent roadshows in India,
Indonesia, Pakistan, Turkey and Vietnam have
drawn very positive responses from the local
industries, and delegations and groups of visitors
from key textile manufacturing economies have
indicated their intention to visit the showcase. ❑
China gears up for the fourth edition
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 201416
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 saw more than 92,000 visitors from more than 107 countries and regions during the five-day show
J 20 air-jet spinning machine by Rieter
S05 AFTEX 2 2014 - Events_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:57 Page 16
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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 201418
EVENT NEWS
NEARLY 2,300 EXHIBITORS from 36 countries
and regions took part in the HKTDC Hong Kong
Houseware Fair and the HKTDC Hong Kong
International Home Textiles & Furnishings Fair,
that was held from 20 April to 23 April at the
Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.
Organised by Hong Kong Trade Development
Council, the fair featured 16 group pavilions,
including the ASEAN select pavilion, hosting 60
exhibitors from five countries namely Indonesia,
Malaysia, the Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam.
The fair highlights included three new zones —
avenue of inspiration, presenting innovative
houseware from Hong Kong start-up companies;
creative arts and cultural craft; and baby and
children’s homeware.
The Hall of Elegance was back, with brands
such as BWT (Austria), Happycall (South Korea),
Metier (Hong Kong), Multiple Choice by
Topchoice (Hong Kong), Thomas Pottery (Hong
Kong) and Vigar (Spain). The show also saw the
return of the World of Fine Décor, World of Fine
Dining, the World of Pet Supplies and the Small-
Order Zone. Other product zones at the event
included green living, health & wellness, home-
tech, kitchenware and gadgets and outdoor living.
World of Textiles
The fifth Home Textiles and Furnishings Fair
featured more than 220 exhibitors from seven
countries and regions, including newcomers
Czech Republic and Portugal. The fair also
included a pavilion from the Chinese mainland, as
well as two from India — the Handloom Export
Promotion Council and the Export Promotion
Council for Handicrafts.
The new design solutions and trade services
zone showcased interior design and product
design offerings. Other zones include baby &
bedroom textiles, bathroom & kitchen textiles,
carpet & floor coverings, upholstery & furnishing,
and window fashion & accessories.
In addition, the two fairs together presented a
number of events, including product
demonstrations and ASEAN kitchen shows.
The show acted as an information exchange
platform. The Product Demo and Launch Pad
session provided suppliers with opportunities
to announce their latest products in an
interactive setting with buyers. Networking
Reception brought together industry players to
an occasion conducive to forging and
strengthening relationships.
The next show will be held on 20-23 April 2015.
SOURCE AFRICA WILL take place for the second time in South Africa’s
Cape Town starting 18 June 2014. The three-day event is touted as the most
important annual pan-African textile, clothing and footwear trade event on
the international calendar encouraging linkages between buyers,
manufacturers and suppliers, investment into manufacturing capacity in
Africa and accelerating job creation for many years to come.
Source Africa 2013 demonstrated what can be achieved when USAID’s
regional experts join forces with private enterprise, LTE – leaders in trade
exhibitions, in South Africa to boost regional industry. The event was
designed to show that African textile, apparel & footwear manufacturers can
compete on price, quality and standards. It brought together manufacturers,
suppliers and service providers in one major integrated event, enabling
African and International buyers to examine a wide array of products and
services in one efficient trip.
Source Africa 2014 will include a two-day trade exhibition, African country
pavilions, international business seminars organised by the American Apparel
& Footwear Association (AAFA), an opening plenary session and cocktail
receptions. Another important element will be the professional online
matchmaking programme. By effectively combining online technology
together with a team of business matchmakers, event participants are
profiled, provided access to an online matchmaking calendar with the ability
to view and select exactly who they want to meet.
The Source Africa Trade Expo is expected to once again attract over 2,000
decision makers who will have the opportunity to view an extensive range of
products and services from more than 180 exhibitors.
Source Africa was designed to demonstrate that African suppliers and
manufacturers can compete on price, quality and standards.
“It is clear that Africa sits on the threshold of new opportunities for export
diversification and regional integration in these industries. Moreover, there
seems to be an agreement that with higher costs in Asia and the saturation of
some key sourcing platforms in Asia and elsewhere, Africa has a chance to
become a new sourcing destination’, says Steve Lamar, Executive Vice
President, the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) and
Source Africa event supporter.
William Scalco, Member, LTE South Africa, said, “We have great plans in
store to boost intra-regional trade as well as grow global opportunities for the
industry. An exciting announcement is that USAID and AAFA have once
again partnered with us to develop Source Africa into the most important
trade event for the footwear, clothing and textiles industries in Africa. An
extensive marketing and promotional campaign will be launched to attract
even more African and international trade buyers and exhibitors.”
Source Africa 2013 saw 1,401 trade visitors, 170 exhibitorsand 36 top buyers from local and international retailers
Hong Kong International Textile fair was undoubtedly Asia’s largest
Source Africa to demonstrate the continent’s textile manufacturing strength
The show acted as an information exchange platform
S05 AFTEX 2 2014 - Events_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:57 Page 18
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014 19
THE IMMENSE POTENTIAL market that exists for technical textiles inthe Middle East region, in particular its uses in the safety and protectionareas, was the focus of the inaugural Techtextil Middle East Symposiumheld alongside Intersec 2014 in January at the Dubai InternationalConvention and Exhibition Center.
The two-day series of presentations and interactive panel discussionsorganised by International Newsletters in association with MesseFrankfurt, showcased on the fast-growing technical textiles industry witha particular emphasis on their applications in the Middle East region.
Technical textiles are synthetic fabrics designed with purefunctionality in mind and are currently in demand by a vast array ofindustries including for automotive applications, medical, geotextiles,agro and protective textiles.
Leading industry representatives underlined the tremendousbenefits to be gained by the appropriate use of technical textiles inprotective and safety functions.
The Middle East region, currently enjoying a phase of considerableeconomic growth accompanied by a surge in the creation of newinfrastructure and transport and logistics facilities offers enormouspotential for the use of Protech (technical textiles especially for thesafety and protection of workers) and Buildtech (textiles for buildingand construction). The role of protective gear in keeping wearers coolin extreme conditions was discussed in a presentation by TechnicalAbsorbents Ltd. (UK), while Norafin spoke about the use of non-wovens in protective gear. Other topics discussed included theimportance of standards and testing; innovation and technical textilesand experts took a look at the global markets for technical textiles.
“Non-wovens are among the fast growing sectors of the technicaltextiles market,” said Christian Rosenkrantz, business developmentmanager at Norafin. “With possible applications across a broadspectrum of end uses ranging from medical products through technicalcomposites to protective apparel, non-wovens are set to play anincreasingly more visible part in the technical textiles market.”
Organised by Messe Frankfurt, Techtextil is the leading trade fair.Techtextil is present with five brand shows in significant markets suchas China, India, Russia and the US.
As emerging markets go, when it comes to the safety and securityindustry, Africa is a continent that holds tremendous potential forgrowth. This was evidenced at Intersec 2014, which witnessed 70 percent more visitors from Africa over the previous show’s numbers.Around 1,213 exhibitors from 54 countries and more than 24,700visitors from 156 countries visited the shows.
Techtextil Middle East highlights marketpotential for technical textiles in region
At Techtextil Middle East 2014, attendees discovered the immense potential of technical textiles, as well as their relevance and specific applicability to the safety and protection market
S05 AFTEX 2 2014 - Events_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:57 Page 19
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 201420
A
LTHOUGH KNIFE CUTTING is the
traditional and most used form of
numerically controlled computerised cutting, there
are alternative methods.
NC Knife cutting
The textile industry has been using numerically
controlled cutting techniques for several decades.
These machines are being continuously
developed and enhanced whilst new companies
enter the market.
The new Eastman Raptor models have been
designed to meet the needs of clients in the
apparel, industrial fabrics and composites
industries cutting traditional textiles such as
cotton, wool and denim, as well as modern
technical materials like Kevlar, non-woven
polyesters, foam-backed vinyl and other industrial
fabrics. Newly engineered features include
numerous design upgrades for improved operation
of automatic multiple-ply cutting including heavy-
duty gantry design; improved access for
maintenance and replacement of internal
components and consumable items; sensors for
monitoring optimum cycle speeds; while direct
knife cooling improves cutting speeds and the
ability to cut heavier-ounce materials.
By applying a mix of technical characteristics
and innovative materials, FK Group’s Top Cut 6
‘Fast Revolution’ has been developed to accelerate
both speed and productivity even when cutting
particularly difficult materials. The automatic
conveyor cutting system with six cm cutting head
has been developed for small and medium
production, with changes from multiple plies to
single ply cutting taking only a few seconds.
Features include medium electrical consumption
of 5.5KW; “Ecopower“ intelligent vacuum
management for low power consumption;
“Mectronics Blade Sense” automatic knife
deflection correction; “EVO CUT” intuitive
software for setting cutting parameters; a patented
high speed sharpening system and “Vortec”
refrigerated 0°C to 6°C knife cooling system for
technical textiles/synthetics; together with remote
technical assistance.
FIAB produces technical textile cutting
machines mainly designed to cut PVC and non-
porous fabrics 0.05mm to 1.5mm in depth. Two
rolls or more can be cut simultaneously but no
more than five, using a conveyorised table. A very
fine scalpel-like cutting tool is used, along with a
pizza knife and ink drawing tool. LANTwec
software takes the AutoCAD patterns to produce
the marker, automatically applying margins
required for welding purposes.
Filiz Makina San ve Tic AS can cut multiple
layers up to two to three cms in height using a flat
table with air transferring material, as opposed to a
bristle bed, which still uses vacuum to hold the
fabric. It uses a high oscillating altitude combined
with carbide knives which can be far thinner than
steel, enabling fine detail and provide a very low
co-efficient of friction. The cutting tables come in
a range of sizes from 1.65 metres x 1.05 metres to
3.3 metres x 5 metres.
The M Series from Gerber Innovations, part of
Gerber Technology, is able to cut a wide range of
technical textiles from very thin flexible fabrics to
hard wood and aluminium. It is available in lengths
up to five metres and widths up to 2.26 metres in a
large range of sizes, and features advanced tooling,
unobstructed table access, laser pointer, powerful
vacuum hold-down, low-noise operation and a
built-in safety beam. The T3 (Total Tooling
Technology) head offers a full package of
automatically identifiable tool inserts, including a
bevel knife and 45º 3D cutting tool to address the
demands of today’s packaging materials. The
optional Mvision-cut optical system features
accurate print-to-cut registration and compensates
for skew and linear distortion. The Windows front-
end graphical user interface offers all the tools for
an independent off-line production system whilst
maintaining compatibility with all major CAD
systems. It is also available with an easy-to-use
touchscreen option.
The Kuris TexCut High Ply Cutter has been
developed for manufactures changing from a
manual to automated cutting and is said to be simple
New ‘cutting’ edgemethods rule the roost
Africa and the Middle East
APPAREL
With the continuous development of numerically controlled cutting
techniques, Niki Tait outlines what’s new in the market from some of
the key suppliers
S06 AFTEX 2 2014 - Apparel_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:58 Page 20
CUTTING
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014 21
enough for beginners. It is available in different
models to cater for 25mm to 80mm compressed
cuts. Applications include the garment, automotive,
aviation and aerospace, furniture, construction, boat
and railway industries. The bristle belt provides an
effective cutting length of 2.2 metres, 3.5 metres or
4.5 metres. The maximum cutting speed is 45
metres per minute with positioning speed of 60
metres per minute. Automatic parallelism
monitoring eliminates the need for subsequent
manual alignment of the lay. Knives are available in
a variety of sizes ranging from 1.2mm x 6mm to
3mm x 9mm and are available with different
coatings while blades can be either serrated of saw
grinding edges and consist of HSS or carbide. There
is the option of a smart knife which provides
automatic compensation of knife bending.
Lectra’s Vector range, supported by powerful
software and intuitive controls, includes
appropriate models for automotive, fashion,
furniture, and composite material manufacturers.
Features include a cutting thickness of up to nine
cm, vibration frequency of up to 6,000 vibrations
per minute, user-friendly controls, an enhanced
visibility management system and advanced
integrated software for the automatic generation of
activity reports. With a built-in cutting head
camera, the user can locate a precise starting point.
By using a colour-coded indicator system at the top
of the chimney stack and LEDS on the cutting
head, Vector automatically and continuously
signals the machine status. Using intuitive touch-
control technology the user is guided through the
production process, while the real-time dashboard
provides full visual management of the cutting
process. Its onboard intelligence monitors machine
behaviour, and offers a real-time interface to
Lectra’s call centres.
A completely new range of products make up
the Macpi Group’s IMA EVO PLUS SERIES
including the new cutting machine Formula Evo
Plus 918. The use of the latest generation of
electronics is designed to ensure complete digital
control of each micro-operation providing the
capability to adapt its technical and operational
characteristics to the different types of fabric and
ply height from single ply to six cm compressed,
allowing constancy in cutting precision. It also
enables maximum possible speed of execution
with adjustment in the power absorbed by vacuum
according to needs, offering great energy savings.
The interactive touchscreen panel provides the
operator with all machine functions.
Designed for use in the apparel, upholstery,
technical, automotive and aerospace industries,
Pathfinder has recently introduced its new 3, 5, 7
or 10 cm lay height capacity M-series flexible
material knife cutting system into the European
market. The M-series machine is 99 per cent
recyclable at the end of its useable life, has only
one control circuit board assembly, and, the
company claims, less than 50 per cent of the
moving components of most competitors, meaning
virtually no maintenance, while it’s digital vacuum
system has been developed to significantly reduce
power consumption. All its parts are produced
internally at one location.
Shanghai Yin Science and Technology Company
Limited from China, established as recently as
2006, already offers an impressive production line
integrating CNC cutting machines, intelligent
spreading machines, CAD software, and leather
cutting machines, rapid garment systems and three-
dimensional anthropological measuring systems.
Its latest automatic cutting machine, the YIN HY-Q
Series is aimed mainly at sportswear, knitwear, car
interior trim parts and furnishing. The new speed
response movement control system increases
cutting speed. One body design is applicable to
both fixed and conveyor models . A separated
vacuum system provides for quieter running.
The new Premium Cut ELC single ply cutter
from TopCut Bullmer is claimed one of the fastest
on the market with cutting speeds of up to 150
metres per minute. With no need for bottom paper
or top plastics, the company claims it can cut a total
trouser with 10 corners within seconds using a
segmented knife. The single ply cutter can also be
used for cutting carbon fibre and plastic foils, whilst
using a router it can also cut wood and other solids
including parts for aircraft. An inkjet printer can be
added to the cutting head for marking, printing serial
numbers, and other notations. If matching of fabric
is required, there is an optional matching camera
based system, as well as a cradle mechanism for
preparing the next ply ready for cutting.
Zund make modular based single ply cutters for
the graphic, technical textiles, home textiles,
packaging and upholstery industry. Cutting tools
include straight knives, rotating knives, oscillating
knives and routing tools, plus a creasing tool for
the packaging industry. A camera system is
incorporated to pre-scan what is to be cut. Cutters
tables are available from 1300mm x 800mm to
3200mm x 3200mm. All flexible fabrics can be cut
to a thickness of 50mm.
The Electric Oscillating Tool (EOT) is designed
for cutting soft and medium-density materials up
to 28 mm/one-inch thick.
Laser
Modern woven and spacer fabrics, as well as
multilayers, fleece, needle fleece, glass fibre,
thermo-resistant and other technical textiles can all
benefit from being cut by laser, say eurolaser
GmbH, who maintain that the contactless
processing via the laser beam and the related non-
deforming cutting and high precision, are crucial
arguments for the use of laser technology. The
laser beam has no tool wear, it does not need any
work piece fixing, and offers high precision up to
1/10 mm while reducing or eliminating fraying
especially when cutting mixed fibres.
Eurolaser produces XY motion controlled laser
cutters, with 40 per cent of its lasers being sold to
the textile industry. These are mainly aimed at the
filter and automotive industries for convertible
tops, seats, and so on, as well as for synthetic
sportswear and underwear where edge sealing is
beneficial. Lasers used are up to 600-watt and
tables come in widths up to 3.2 metres. The key
benefit of laser is that it cuts and seals in one
operation. At one metre per second, it can be faster
than knife cutting and is contactless. Marker pens
or ink markers can be added to the cutting head,
just as with a knife cutter.
With its ‘New Generation’ 3XL-3200, textile
sheets up to 3,210mm wide can be processed. For
roll material, an automatic conveyor material feed
is available, feeding to the laser cutter directly
from the roll and routed after cutting directly to a
table extension, meaning cut sections can be
almost endless. Bale material is fed via an
automatic feeding unit in which the edge controller
ensures accurate positioning of the material. There
is also an option to add a winding unit to the
Conveyor System.
Gerber Technology offers the Keehwa Laser
Cutting System available in static or conveyorised
format and powered by Gerber Technology’s
CutWorks software. The systems are powered
using a sealed CO2 laser and integrate with most
industry CAD packages. The Keehwa HiCUT
C200 laser cutter designed with an integral
The SM-800-WJ from SMRE Engineering has been developed for the automated2D or 3D cutting of a wide range of materials using pure water jet technology
S06 AFTEX 2 2014 - Apparel_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:58 Page 21
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 201422
CUTTING
conveyor cutting table, automatic fabric feeder,
and material off-load device, enables cutting and
sealing of single-ply materials in one continuous
process. A powerful vacuum system holds material
firmly in place during laser cutting to ensure
precision. The intelligent speed control system
monitors productivity and adjusts as necessary.
The laser is suitable for cutting a wide selection of
fabrics and materials including those used for
upholstery, airbags, jeans, paragliders, parachutes
and others. The effective cutting area is 10,000mm
× 1,800mm with a maximum cutting height of 3 to
5mm. The maximum carriage moving speed is
1,016mm/sec while the maximum cutting speed
equals 508mm/sec with an accuracy of 0.05mm.
Specially developed for technical textiles and
composite materials, Lectra’s Focus laser cutting
has been designed specifically for the filter market,
which is characterised by a considerable diversity
of materials to cut, thus requiring great flexibility
in its production processes. This cutter, associated
with the FocusPilot TechTex operating software,
enables quality cutting, irrespective of the type of
technical textiles and composite materials. The
equipment is web-connected to optimise the
communication with call centres allowing answers
in real time. The company also offer laser cutting
as an option for air-bag manufacturers.
Water Jet
The Expert Systemtechnik waterjet cutting
systems are characterised by the fact that they
operate with extreme precision and cutting speed
without changing the properties of the material to
be cut. Synthetic leather, leather, plastic,
cardboard, rubber and a host of technical materials
can be cut using water jet technology with
numerous advantages compared to mechanical
cutting claimed, such as minimal water
consumption, low tool wear and the extremely
hardwearing cutting base resulting in minimal
operating costs and environment friendly.The
water jet provides for contactless cutting using XY
coordinates at 70 metres per minute. It is a very
thin jet, the material being cut does not get wet due
to the small amounts used (0.2 litres of water per
minute). The material sits on a steel mesh which
the water passes through purely by speed, pressure
and gravity without the need for any vacuum, and
is still clean after cutting so needs no post
treatment. If synthetic leather is used up to ten
plies thick can be cut. Up to 2/3-inch foam can
also be cut on this machine.
The main customer for this machine is the
automotive, upholstery, textile, shoe or technical
market involved with single ply cutting of customer
specific orders. Repeatability lies at a constant +/-
0.2mm. The highly energised bundled jet of water
is pressed out of a precious stone nozzle with a
diameter of between 0.1 and 0.25 mm at a pressure
of up to 3,800 bars, adjustable according to the
material. The cutting speed lies between 70 and 120
m per minute. The combination of the jet of water
and high cutting speed means hardly any moisture
penetrates the material.
Cutting accuracy remains constant during the
entire cutting process as this is a non-contact
cutting method. The high pressure and the fineness
of the nozzle mean the material is cut into directly
from above. There is, therefore, no mechanical
displacement. A special cutting surface of steel
honeycombs ensures that the leather cannot move
after laying down. In addition, adhesion of the
leather to the table can be increased by the use of
water-soluble glue. The thickness of material
which can be cut using water jet technology is
determined by the nature of material.
The SM-800-WJ from SMRE Engineering has
been developed for the automated 2D or 3D
cutting of a wide range of materials using pure
water jet technology.
Suteau Anver has introduced the Hydrojet water
jet cutting machine. It includes a hydro-process
high pressure generator and have been developed
to cut materials such as rubber, textiles, leather,
gaskets, foam materials, plastics, composites, floor
coverings, rock wool, pre-impregnated carbon
fibre fabric, and others. In terms of advantages
over other processes, the company explains it can
up to 150mm; homogenous, heterogeneous or
composite materials can be cut; cold cutting emits
no heat and has no impact on the structure of the
materials; several cutting heads can be controlled
simultaneously and the process is suitable for 2/3
or 5 axle systems, CN or robot controlled.
With the Hydrojet 2020/2030/2040/2060
series of water jet cutting machines the stainless
tank is built into the structure and the water level
can be adjusted.
Combination
Top of the range from Blackman and White,
developed for heavier duly industrial materials or
applications with complex tooling requirements,
the MasterCut 2200 provides a combination of
versatility with rigidity and torsional strength. The
MasterCut 2200 has the capability to
simultaneously carry a laser, passive tooling (knife
with steel or carbide blade, creasing and plotting
pen), the ACTI-V or powered tooting suite
(including driven wheel, vibratory blade, hot knife
and 45 degree bevelled cutter), an ink jet printer
for part marking, a plotter pen, a routing facility
and a digital camera for part recognition. In
addition, the MasterCut 2200 can be fitted with a
label printer and placer. Designed for those
working with wide format digital printing, textile
graphics or soft signage through to marine hypalon
sanding, the machine comes in three different
cutting widths (2.1m, 3.2m or 5m), or custom sizes
to cut lengths of over 100 metres. The maximum
cutting speed is 1500 mm/second.
The Eastman M 9000 is a multiply cutter which
can cut up to 7 cm high. Tool heads can be changed
between a standard tool head which uses a pressure
wheel; fibre tool for cutting foams and fibres such as
cushion stuffing; heavy duty which can run 24/7;
200-watt laser for sealing edges, for example on
airbags, window shades, parachutes etc.; router
which can cut Ptex, for example, used for snowboard
bases; leather cuter; inject and labelling system.
Within the next six months an ultrasonic option will
be available. The laser option has variable speed and
wattage and can cut two to three times faster than a
knife, with speeds up to 150 cm per second on a
straight line. The table can be either static or
conveyorised and the widest cutting machine can
reach 6-7 metres. 95 per cent of machine problems
can be rectified over the phone as Eastman can
access the machines remotely via modem.
Hauser, a company owned by Parker
Automation have developed complete automated
cutting solutions to suit each customer’s needs.
These may include cross cutting, length cutting,
and stacking of home textiles, upholstery, PE
foams, paper, copper foils, non-wovens, laminates
or all sorts of technical textiles including filter
materials, pre-pregs and compounds, as well as
nearly all flexible materials with material widths,
which can be in excess of 1.82 metres. The main
cutting system is flexible through its modular
structure and multiple options which include strip
rewinding, edge guiding, roll and pallet
processing, continuous feeding for inline
application, pallet feeding and A-frame unwinding.
Cutting options include round knife, guillotines,
ultrasonic and thermal cutting with ultrasonics.
The Pathfinder L-series single-low ply
automatic knife cutting system/cutter plotter has
been developed for the technical textile industry.
According to the company ‘the intuitive PathCut
cutter control software provides the ultimate
flexibility from a single operator interface without
additional knobs, joysticks or control interfaces,
providing ergonomics and ease of operation-
optimizing efficiency of man and machine’. A
check matching system is also available, as is
inkjet and airbrush marking, the later used for
foam and dimpled material where inkjet cannot be
effectively used. Thus serial numbers, sewing
lines, and other notations can be marked direct
onto the fabric. For fabric which needs edge
sealing the company offer a single ply ultrasonic
cutter. As it explains, cutting is faster using the
knife but although the ultrasonic head is more
expensive, high-speed ultrasonic cutting can be a
less expensive alternative where high production
using many different types of synthetic fabrics is
used. The knife and ultrasonic heads are
interchangeable on the L-Series. ❑
Brother Internationale ..................................9
Industrie Machinen GmbH
Dilo Machines GmbH ................................19
Erhardt + Leimer GmbH ............................13
Loepfe Brothers Ltd. ..................................24
Monforts A. Textilmaschinen ....................11
Gmbh & Co Kg
Staubli International AG................................2
AD INDEX
S06 AFTEX 2 2014 - Apparel_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:58 Page 22
MOREOVER
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014 23
I
NDUSTRIALISATION OF THE textile
industry and use of a large variety of chemical
treatments and dyes has resulted in health threat
created by pollution. Around 17 per cent to 20 per
cent of industrial freshwater pollution is caused by
textile dyeing and treatment. Estimations state that
10 per cent to 15 per cent of total dyestuffs
(equivalent to 280,000 tonnes of dyestuffs) used
during the manufacturing of textile products is
released into the environment worldwide annually.
A recent survey by Greenpeace in 15 countries
across the globe found that water scarcity and
water pollution are the two top environmental
concerns of the world’s population.
There are a wide range of mostly organic
compounds of complex structure used in the textile
dyeing and finishing process. In regards to
wastewater, dyestuffs may be classified into two
groups — those that don’t undergo chemical
reactions like acid, basic, direct, disperse, pigment
and solvent; and those that undergo reactions like
vat, sulphur and azoic.
Of these, the processes involving reactive
chemistry use chemicals that independently are
non-toxic, but react with the other chemicals used
in manufacturing to create a third substance which
is toxic. This reaction can occur during various
stages in the product lifecycle, and can vary greatly
dependent not only on the dye compound created,
but also on factors such as the fibre choice, fabric
structure, or machinery used.
Composite textile waste-water is characterised
mainly by measurements of biochemical Oxygen
Demand (BOD), Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)
suspended solids (SS), and dissolved solids (DS).
The majority of chemical use in textile finishing
processes occurs during ‘wet processing’, such as
dyeing, washing, printing and fabric finishing.
According to surveys measuring natural resource
use in all industries, textile dyeing and finishing
mills use considerably more water than most — as
much as 200 tonnes of water for every tonne of
textiles produced. Many of the chemicals used in
textile production are non-hazardous, but a
relatively small proportion of these chemicals are
potentially hazardous. However, in absolute terms,
a considerably large number of hazardous
chemicals are used in textile production due to the
very large number of chemicals used.
Textile wastewater contains many pollutants
including acids, dispersants, alkalis, dyes, heavy
metals, organic-chlorines, PBDE, PFOA,
phthalates, pigments, salts, and many more. The
release of these hazardous materials into public
drains, which lead to rivers, streams, and
eventually the ocean, alters the pH, and increases
BOD and COD levels.
According to the United Nations Environment
Programme, “worldwide, it is estimated that
industry is responsible for dumping 300–500mn
tonnes of heavy metals, solvents, toxic sludge and
other waste into waters each year.”
In high-income countries, industrial pollution is
said to be stabilising or decreasing. The
Organisation for Economic Co-operation and
Development reports that since the 1970s, high-
income countries have reduced industrial
discharges of heavy metals and other persistent
chemicals by 70 per cent to 90 per cent or more in
most instances. However, this is not the case for
economies in Africa, Asia and South and Central
America, where pollution is expected to increase
along with economic and industrial development.
Decolourisation of textile wastewater is a
common physiochemical method businesses use to
minimise waste after the dying process has occurred,
and before the water is released back into the
environment. Some of these procedures include
filtration, activated carbon, specific coagulation,
chemical flocculation, oxidization, and with the use
of light and hydrogen peroxide. Potato polyphenol
oxidase is an example of an effective decolourisation
treatment of textile wastewater for reactive dyes, it
has been found to greatly reduce the levels of organic
carbon released into the environment.
Although many organic components of textile
wastewater can be degraded and prevented from
entering our waterways, due to the synthetic
organic origin, and complex chemical structure of
many others it is impossible to completely
eliminate all pollutants created during the textile
dyeing and finishing processes. Fairly, laws and
regulations being put into effect require that
manufacturers pay much greater attention to these
processes which raise ethical concerns.
Compliance with regulations can be costly to some
firms, and in light of these, lawmakers often offer
rewards and incentives to businesses for investing
in green technologies and processes that will limit
their emission of pollutants into waterways and the
environment. However, expensive the treatment of
wastewater is, it is vital for firms to realise that the
cost of dumping untreated wastewater into our
ecological systems in incalculable. ❑
Source: Stigmare.com
Dyeing water sources
Industrial pollution can have devastating impactson river systems and lakes that are vital to humans
and wildlife
Textile dyeing and finishingmills use considerably more
water than most — as much as200 tonnes of water for every
tonne of textiles produced
Urgent and transparent action is needed to eliminate the use
and release of these hazardous chemicals into water bodies
S06 AFTEX 2 2014 - Apparel_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:58 Page 23
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Loepfe Brothers Ltd.8623 Wetzikon/Switzerland
sales@loepfe.comwww.loepfe.com
Phone +41 43 488 11 11Fax +41 43 488 11 03
S06 AFTEX 2 2014 - Apparel_Layout 1 06/05/2014 11:58 Page 24
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