54 Umbro Garment Quality Process Control

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Umbro Garment Quality Process

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GARMENTS / TRIMS / MATERIALS QUALITY GARMENTS / TRIMS / MATERIALS QUALITY PROCESS CONTROLPROCESS CONTROLPROCESS CONTROL PROCESS CONTROL

PROTOTYPES PROTOTYPES

Must be measured at source

These are required to be produced for every new/amended style per season, exact to Specification provided by Umbro.

These garments are reviewed during internal meetings for fit, styling and function.

Prototype samples can be made in available fabric.

Specification/fabrication of the style can change dramatically atSpecification/fabrication of the style can change dramatically at this stage.

Please note that Prototype samples measuring beyond tolerancePlease note that Prototype samples measuring beyond tolerance will NOT be fitted. It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure factories do not submit garments that do not measure to spec.

PREVIEWS / CONFERENCEPREVIEWS / CONFERENCE

All fit and style amendments carried out at the Prototype stage must be carried out for Preview samples.

Previews must arrive with the Prototype comments attached to samples and ticked/checked off as a record that Prototype comments have been carried out.carried out.

Trims, Fabrics and Embellishments MUST be submitted for comments/ approval with Preview samples, along with relevant test report. pp p , g p

SALESMEN’S SAMPLE (SS)SALESMEN’S SAMPLE (SS)

These must be representative of bulk.

All trims and embellishments must be signed off.

SS must be produced at the source of bulk production.

Source switching beyond this point in development is NOT acceptable.

Matrix CFA conducts inline and final inspection

Matrix to send 1pc/style to Nike APPI along with comments sheet.

SIZE SETSSIZE SETS

All sizes to be submitted unless otherwise advised by the technologisttechnologist

Size sets must be measured at source and discrepancies logged

d h k d i t ttand checked against patterns

Measurement log must be attached to Size Set samples sent to pUMBRO.

Size set samples can be made in available colour fabricavailable colour fabric.

Matrix CFA – 100% inspection / approval

Matrix to send a reference size set to Nike API

SEALING SAMPLES SEALING SAMPLES

Sealing samples must be produced prior to any cutting of bulk

Sealing samples to be submitted in bulk fabrics / trims and be packaged as bulk production

A minimum of 4 sealing samples is required, across the colours, to be submitted in the following sizes:

Men’s 4 x L Women’s 4 x 12

J i 4 MBJuniors 4 x MB Infants All sizes Babies All sizes

Note: Matrix submits 2 unwashed, 1 washed garment

SEALING SAMPLESSEALING SAMPLES

All colourways to be submitted for final seal approval

Failure to adhere to this may result in incorrect bulk productionFailure to adhere to this may result in incorrect bulk production and risk of stock rejection.

Garments must be an exact representation of bulk production. p p

WEARER TRIAL SAMPLES WEARER TRIAL SAMPLES

These can be requested at any stage of the UMBRO Sealing process.

Wear trail garments to be correct fabric and trims if available.Wear trail garments to be correct fabric and trims if available.

Results of Wearer Trials will be documented and are available for suppliers upon request.

Potential problems highlighted due to Wearer Trials must be rectified by the supplier prior to Bulk shipment.

SEALING PROCEDURE SEALING PROCEDURE

All samples must be submitted with a swing ticket attached which states style code colour code size season if componentswhich states style code, colour code, size, season, if components are bulk or available, and the type of sample i.e. proto, seal etc.

SAFETY CHECKLIST SAFETY CHECKLIST

All components are evaluated for safety at Prototype and p y ypSealing stage.

All garment components must be tested as set out in the UMBRO Trim Testing Standard and test reports approved by the technologist. t e tec o og st.

PP MEETINGPP MEETING

PP Meeting is conducted between Factory and Matrixbetween Factory and Matrix CFA before start of bulk cutting on trial garments

Fabrication, cutting, embellishment constr ction &embellishment, construction & stitching, finishing concerns are discussed

Special attention is given to iti l ticritical operations

CUTTING CUTTING

Fabric to be rechecked when laid up

All knitted fabrics to be allowed to relax over night before cutting

Check press settings and performance

dl b h k dBundle contents to be checked. 100% checking on cutting panel

Napped fabrics to be cut in one direction

Parties involved : FactoryParties involved : Factory

MQP INCOMING MATERIALSMQP INCOMING MATERIALS

4 points system with 20 points max for defect

Sample si e : 10% of incoming material qtSample size : 10% of incoming material qty

Test report from material supplier

Spectro reading from material supplier

Visual checking by FCI (Factory Certified Inspectior for material)

MQP INCOMING MATERIALSMQP INCOMING MATERIALS

Inspection report from material supplier

Reference sample in hanger from material supplier

RSL testing from material supplier

Color matching body and rib

Color blocking wash testColor blocking wash test

Flammability testing (apply on cotton)

pH and Phenolic Test for White Color Material

MQP INCOMING TRIMSMQP INCOMING TRIMS

Heat TransferVisual Inspection 100%Visual Inspection 100%Application method from supplierTrial test for application (factory)Wash test

Badge, PatchesVisual Inspection 100%MD S i 10%MD Scanning 10%Wash Test

Snap ButtonsSnap ButtonsVisual Inspection 100%MD Scanning 10%Torque and tension testTorque and tension test

Note: all trims must be non ferrous.

EMBELLISHMENTSEMBELLISHMENTS

i l h ki100% visual checking on panels received from embroidery / print / heat y ptransfer

Print / Heat transfer will have strike off testing

Matrix CFA to carry out random audit

QUALITY CONTROL QUALITY CONTROL PRODUCTION FLOORPRODUCTION FLOOR

Inline audit for first output by factory QC and Matrix CFA

Sewing inline / Operational inline

End line audit – 100% (factory)End line audit 100% (factory)

QUALITY CONTROL PRESSING QUALITY CONTROL PRESSING

Under-pressing to be used where required

Check garments are not over-pressed

Moisture to be removed before packing p g

QUALITY CONTROL QUALITY CONTROL FINISHED GOODSFINISHED GOODSFINISHED GOODSFINISHED GOODS

MD scanning – 100% (factory)

Pre-Final audit – max 20% of total packed units / PO by CFA

Final audit – AQL 0.6 by CFA for all PO’s, Random max two final audits by Nike API

All garments to be visually checked for faults, chalk / dirty marks, thread ends etc

All garments to be checked against the sealed sample for design

I ti t b i d t t t tInspection to be carried out on garments to ensure measurements are as the approved size specification.

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