2 CAliL. THE WHITE · 2017-12-17 · This Is the white outing girl;and If she prefers a pale pink...

This Is the white outing girl; and Ifshe prefers a pale pink waist, or a light

blue one of cheviot, cotton, or heavylawn, it takes nothing away from hersmartness. The white skirt with thecolored shirt will be worn not a littlethis Eummer; and ItIs pleasant to learnthat the very pretty and always muchadmired Miss Pauline Astor wears sucha skirt, with a colored waist. This isher rig for afternoons at Cliveden, thatcountry estate upon the Thames, wherethe garden parties are given to the royalprincesses, and where smart gowns areswn,

And, by the way, how stupid it is foryoung people in London now. What withthe King coming out against "the younggirl in society": what with the daughtersof the King all grown up and marriedor Ina hopeless state of unmarriedness:what with the little ones of the Walesfamily too small to be out of the nur-sery; and no young princesses anywhereavailable, it Is Indeed a season when theyoung girl in London can pity herselfprofoundly.

Yet she manages to have a good time.Miss Astor wears a white suit, when inLondon, in ctamine. Etamine is such avery fashionable goods this year, and iacapable of such a variety of treatment.If you want Itmade up with ruffles andlace, as a summer dress, then all right.There are plenty of models. But it isso much smarter to tailor It.

A tailored etamine was made upon thelong sheath lines just as plain as can be.But there were panels of stitched etamineput on down each side of the' skirt. Eachfour inches wide, each stitched along theedge, each used as a wide strapping. Thastuff was doubled so that it appearedmore like a panel of cloth, solid, than oneof open texture.

Can Tou Wear White PThere is a white zibiline. very lightin

weight, but one must not invejn in it un-less one has many gowns. Those whitetloth dresses are apt to prove a sr.are forthe girl who must be economical. Theyso soon soil, and when soiled they aresoon gone completely.

There are two. classes of women whotook very well in white. One is the bigfat woman, with plenty of figure. Thiswoman finds in white a merciful friend,softening her outlines and making herappear graceful.

The other woman is the very emailwoman, she whom one calls petite. White?ives her height and dignity and assistslier in the matter of a "presence." Italsogives her that fairy like look which is theprivilege of the small woman.

The White Outing Girl.

1.Nspite of the fact that cold winds

are 6till blowing the ambitious andbeauty loving woman insists on tell-ing us that summer is here.

She rushes the season, this prettycreature, and in May she shows us June,

and in June she forces July and August

vpon us. Anything for a change Is hermotto in dress, and no matter how muchihfc change may cost her. in time, inmoney, and In personal wear and tear,,

she must have it.There is a legend that no woman is

ever happy until she has worn a whitedress. Through the whole of the gentlespring she awaits the day when she canput Iton; and, when, in the first blushof flowering summer, she actually doesden it and sally forth, her joy Is com-plete.

A white dress, the perfectly smartpedestrian one. consists of a skirt ofwhite duck or drill, and a white shirtwaist. It is quite swell to wear a hat

crowned with colored flowers with this,

and tan gloves.

Self-Trimmed Goods.The white crepe goods will always be

liked because they make up so dreaslly.

In selecting there are many pretty andnew fabrics from which to choose. Thewhite cotton goods open up a great fieldand the lace stripes, the linen stripes, thesatin stripes and the beautiful littlestamped white figures, all make variety.

economy if she have small pairs of shoesto buy and as many complete summeroutfits. To the economical woman, there-fore, a word—wear white!

cotton linings, just as one would with a.iyother gown; but these liningsdo not showup well and they add nothing to thebeauty of the dress.

it you cannot aftord to line well, then donot get , a transparent dress, so "themodistes adviser and they send their cus-tomers back to exchange dress patterns

White, since it is ibfe color of BunuherjJs the one to bo advised to all who woulddress wel!. There Is something about itwhich makes it ever appropriate and onedoes not wonder that public women, likeMrs". Roosevelt and ihe wom^n of theCabinet, choose while In preference toyellow or grtmn or even turquoise blue.

Airs. Roosevelt is an econonjical dresser.Her famous pronunclamento. in favor ofdressing en $300 a year, started an inter-national controversy. She chooses thepure color because it js becoming and be-cause !tis cheap. No woman not the wifeoJ' a millionaire can neglect matters of

jo trim them there are very neat hemfctUchinss that can be bought by theyard; and there are goods that come witha little cording running through them.It looked at the first of the' season as

1hough none but the martyrs and the mil-lionaires could enter into the fashionableworjd. Allgowns were so elaborately em-broidered, so intricately appliqued withlace, so profusely tucked and so wonder-fully squared eff, with the insets madeout of the daintiest linen bits, that itseemed as though a woman's whole timewould be spent upon the making of onegown. To achieve even one creation it

The question of a lining is a perplexingone to the woman 'who' dresses in whltp.tor the lining costs more than the gown

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ar>d to line a 15-cent cotton means some-thing when viewed from the standpoint ofthe pecketbook..As for the lining, it is a matter thatcannot be ignored. Allor very nearly allof the summer goods are transparent andthe lining Is distinctly visible, painfullyso .sometimes.

Of course it is possible to use the plain .

While wh'itc is made up with all sim-plicity,it is a sort of studied simplicity,which is by no means plainness.. ,

The dee'i flounce around the foot is inplaingoods tucked at the top and releasedat the botom to make, the necessary flareand there are little bands of goods at thehead of the flounce with hemstitchingalong each band.

Lace is used more elaborately in somecases, than it need be. There is a widegirdle of it,pointed top and bottom, -frontand back. The neck shows a band of laceand 'ti lace point comes down to the bust.The sleeves are finished with an elbowpuff -with a band of lace at each side ofthe puff. !,

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Lace Trimmings.

The daintiest of summer gowns is madefrom a material that is _a pale yellow,the color of old lace. It has a cordingrunning through it and is soft and crepey.At wide intervals there is a little puff ofthe goods. All this is in the material it-self. It requires no other trimming ex-cept the little bit of lace, which goes onall things.

One lovely bit of goods, just a plainwhite cotton, .costing not much, showstiny rows of pin tucking with machinehemstitching set inbetween the group oftucks. Such a material is alreadytrimmed and Is all ready to be made upinto a waist.

looked as if she would have to work inter-minably week in and week out.

But allperplexities disappear before thesoftening fingers of Time, and so withthe dress perplexity. As soon as the-ac-tual' summer goods came in and werespread out upon the counters, one beganto notice the abundance and beauty of themachine-made fabrics.

that show the lining too plainly.But the prettiest gowns for the house

and many of the best gowns for the streetdo "show through," and the liningques-tion must be tackled boldly.

The Lining Question.Here Is the advice of a very fashionable

dressmaker, who designs and executes forthe wives of millionaires:"Ibegin at the very beginning," says

she, "and make my linings first.""Mrs. A,"mentioning the wife of a fa-

mous multi-millionaire, "willnoFbuy silklinings, and one do«s not blame her, forin the summer they are not durable, anda substitute that looks just as well mustbe provided.

"For this woman and for many othersamong my patrons Imake very stylishand wholly beautiful linings of the finestof lawn. The waist is low in the neckand is made like a corset cover, sleeve-less. It is elaborately trimmed with laceand would do for an evening waist. Itcashes nicely and is made separate fromthe gown< |

"For the skirt Imake not.a petticoat,but a perfect fitting, perfect hangingdress skirt. It has its flounce, which isvery full, and ithas its sweep length. Itwould do very well indeed for a gown.

"When the dress is to be put on theliningis first donned and hooked up, theekirt is now put on and hooked. Then thedress is put on, bodice and skirt. "A per-fect fit is secured and the effect is lovely."Imake up linings in all colors of tha

finest of lawn and in wash mull, and Inthe thin goods, following always onamcdel, and my patrons have four and sixof them and often more, according to thesize of the wardrobe.

"The secret is in making both waist andskirt so that they look like gowns, notlike corset cover and petticoat. Mypatrons could attend a dinner Ina lining.Of that Iam positive."

The Ethereal Gown.The ethereal girlis the one who dresses

in the fairy goods. These come delicatelysoft and thin, yet crisp, and they are de-signed for the making of afternoon and \piazza, gowns.

There is quite a fad now for the gownthat is stiff and starchy, not soft andclinging, and the mulls and linens seemdesigned for this sort of treatment.

While the esthetic and artistic gown—

the "slinky" one, that twists around one'sfeet and gives one height—Is In fashion,it is undoubtedly true that tha crisp,sheer one is also In style, and tha after-noon maiden can see them both and tak«her choice.It is generally agreed among those who

make dress and its designing a life studythat the stiff, crisp linen and the delight-fullyperky lawn, with Its starched effect,are both meant more for country wear!for hotel piazzas, when one can keepone's self in picture attitudes, than forthe street.

These little dresses are trimmed withValenciennes usually, or with the softestand finest of summer laces, and are madewith the lace set in the skirt and withlace set in the. waist. There is usually ababy-like yoke upon such a waist, andthis is completed with a juvenile ruffle otlace. Around the foot is a dear, crisp lit-tle flounce.. The elbow sleeves are fin-ished with a. little lace ruffle.!

Miss Simplicity will dross in white thiscummer, with the white waist buttoningdown the back; she willhave a yoke, bor-dered with a lace ruffle, and her stockwillbe little more than a lawn band withlace along each edge. Her skirt will bevery simple and rather full. It will bafinished with a very fluffy little laceflounce. And she will wear a sash.

The Home Dressmaker.Itis a fine summer for the woman who

wants to do her own dressmaking, for Inthe newest of dress fabrics are seen thosethat have lace set in, after the most dell-cate ways.

There are the mulls— though they are alittle bit expensive— that have really nicelaco set in to form a sort of design, largeirregular diamonds and little swirls oflace. You have to pay the price butthink, of doing the work yourself!

The foulard asserts itself summer aftersummer, and you fall a victim, thoughyou don't know why. Foulard is never aver\- dressy goods, and it is never verycheap. But it is, oh! so very ladylike. Ina summer foulard one can face the worldifit is made up prettily. /

There'are foulards and foulards andmany ways of making them.

A certain elegant importing establish-ment of Gotham makes a specialty ofthem. They are in Chinese blue, old coldtobacco brown, navy blue, black, and inmany shades of green, making a gre'atvariety. Allshow the figure upon a whiteground, or the white figure upon a col-ored ground— tht;;unmjstakable foulardsijjn.

AHundred Dollar Foulard.These gowns are beautifully made, andnone costs less than $100. It is ahnosta commentary upon the beauty ot the

gowr,3 when you know that the" firm hasdifficulty in fillingits orders at 5190 eachNow, here is a $100 foulard, just such aone as was purchased by Mrs. -ClarenceMackay— and perhaps the very same one:

The foundation was in two shades oftan, light tan pebbled on a deeper tan .ground. Green clover leaves connected by

The Very Large Hat.The large hat. meanwhile, la enjoying

an unrivaled popularity. It is big and itsets upon the hair in certain approvedways. Itmust tilt a little, and probably

there is a bow at the back; that seems tobe necessary.

The Lord Kitchener hat has its boa.It is in white chiffen. while the top isstartling in the intensity of its brilliantred flowers. They are large and veryred, its leaves are large and very green.It used tu be thought not nice to v/ear

a brilliant hat in the street, ami womenof the best taste sought the black hnt^with its ribbons and plumes and itsrrhlnestoiie ornaments.

But this season you see hats made allof glaring red geraniums, and you seethem built cf violets very bold in hue andof pansles that are not at all shrinkingbut that force themselves in all theircolor,upon you.Ifa "loud" hat Is becoming to you, by

ail means wear one, for itwill be in goodtaste, sanctioned by the best dressers inthe world who put on their flower gar-dens and sally forth complacently.

The true boa of summer is built of verythin goods, chiffon preferred, with silkmuslin running a close second. It i3dotted with silk lozenges, and it is fin-ished along the edge, with the tiniest oflittle ribbon ruffles.

One can spend a great deal of time andsome money on this summer boa and be•well repaid in the matter of looljs. Thelength just bow is to the waist, and theboa must surely match the hat. Fallingthis, it should be in white, made of whitesilk muslin and little satin ribbens. Thereare loves of boas, charming enough tograce any occasion and any gown.It is just the time of year when one ia

winding up one's preparations for thesummer. One sees many things that havebeen left unbought. Prices are down andthe temptation to purchase is great.It is a great compliment to our native

wares that American women are buylne,their goods in this country, and even jw^the ,vast numbers that have gone ove fthis/ year for the coronation very fewnav* made any plans for bringing homea wardrobe. Uncle Sam's clothes are goodenough for them.

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Stout women find this smooth front apositive godsend. And again is the llttlawoman suited, for, with the plain, softlytrimmed front, guiltless of button orseam, she becomes positively babyish.There is something in her petite pretti-ness which takes at once to the waistthat buttons down the back. So It iswell to compromise with one's friendsand one's family, and to make arrange-ments to be buttoned up with regularityand care."

The front forms a fine field for the dU-play of jewelry, and at a luncheon,very dressy one, to introduce a muaicaihrelative of Somebody-or-Other to society,the ladies looked as though decoratedwith all the orders of the United King-dom. There Is always the locket whichhangs from a slender invisible chain, andthere ia the dangle which hangs from Itslong chain.

Lovely sets of pins coma now, fourbeautiful, clear pearl ones, looking Ilkamother-of-pearl and a. large oval pin tomatch. AH these are for the front of thaseamless waist and are to outline thayoke and trim it. They are set along atintervals, with the big one In the middle.

The big hat grows bigger and tha littlehat grows smaller as the season warms.The latter is for matinee and for verynice reception occasions and for specialevents. But it can hardly be called astreet hat. Indeed, many do not own thatiny little hat; and really draw no medi-um between the big hat and none. at all.

For a tiny hat, if wear one they must,women compromise upon a coiffure or-nament which consists of a feather, anaigrette, a few gems and a bow of vel-vet ribbon, the whole bearing a wavylook as though it were a thing of air.

Everything is done to add to the light-ness of the hair ornamented, to Its fly-ing" qualities, so to speak. The orna-ments are perched on spirals that theymay dence and the flowers are attachedto wiry stems to make them sway; thaaigrette- floats, from very lightness, andthe ribbons are perched in very perky lit-tle wavs.

The Closed Front.

Many of the handsomest new gownsare closed in the back and this styleis becoming to all. Itis youthful andgraceful, and the fact that it is a nuis-ance is the only argument against it.

.Many o'f ihe s.ik Dodices axe made witn.the postillion back. But for this it is al-most as well to make the tails of silk tomatch the gown, and attach them to abelt to form a postillion belt.- Then onaneed not always wear the little reartabs. That they are becoming there is nodoubt and that they give height and slexx-derness is undisputed. Yet it is pleasantto be able to do without them.

The woman who studies the fashionsand designs her own gowns is as a rulathe woman who gets along on a cloth inthe spring, a summer siik, a little blazercoat, a few skirts and as many shirtwaists as she can get. Itis well witnsuch a wararobe to have each garment

made along the conventional lines in-stead of trying a fashionable extreme.

The rurHed skirt, gather*^ \>ifvthe band,the "tub" skirt it has been nicunamed.may be here next winter. It was o*icafashionable in the ballroom and may baagain; but for one's summer silk It isnot well to be too progressive unless onehas a dress or two to spare.

There are Eugene skirts creeping lnt©the fashionable shops, and llttloglimpsesof the Eugenie modes are given now andthen. But the woman wno wants to fcw»on the safe side will not. just yet. ruf.I'iher skirt to the top, nor willshe make it.very full and round.

There is one model to which DumFashion is faithful. The plain, dose-fit-ting skirt with the foot flounce. True,she varies the flounce and makes It aSpanish ruffle, deeper In the back, or ah*points it along tho top. or aha side plaitsIt,or she takes It and sets a fluffy ruf-fle under it. But on all the new gownsyou willsee this volante, or on so manyof them. • ¦

Dame Fashion Faithful.

Those who keep up tha pretty practiceof paying calls each summer before goingInto the country can Invest in one of thesummer silks and make Itup convention-ally.

Poulard has been called the churchgrown. So It Is, and the summer callingdress, and certainly the one for coolnessand comfort. It wears well, does notmuss, and Is not apt to look rundownuntil it is all worn to rags.

Ifyou do not care to go quite so high—and there are those who would look at$100 a Ions time before spending it on on«foulard—there are Just as pretty thingswith lace and velvet, all done along faah-ionable lines, butInvolvingnot much labornor much fine lace.

The waist had a yoke and stock of chif-fon, withblack velvet running through th«¦tock, and thers were applications ofduchess upon the vest and at the top ofthe sleeves. Beautiful tmdersleeves.trimmed with lace, completed tho gowir>There was a black velvet sash. I

Such a dress as this, counting the eosftof the goods, of the lace, of the velvet andof the time to make It. was worth, themoney.

There was a foot flounce which grewvery wide in the middle of the back; andheading this foot flounce, there was anapplication of beautiful duchess lace wit,hthe foulard cut out underneath. Parts' ofthe lace were lined with black velvet.The hips have application of duchesswith the foulard cut out in the same man-ner, and black velvet was set under hereand there. Inlittle stray patches.

stems were scattered all over the mate-rial.

THE SUNDAY CAliL.2

THE WHITECOWNIS NOW THEFAD

In spite of occasional blaststhe smart white duck, thegauzy afternoon gown and thehandy and ever-ready foulardare In our midst—Why Mrs.Boosevelt dresses in white.What Pauline Astor and otherAnglo-American beauties ara¦wearing—How to get up yourgown to look as though itcostone hundred dollars—Cheatingthe public i:imatters of laceand summer silk.